Tenere 700: Run Auxiliary Lights Off High-Beam Switch

It's not possible to trigger auxiliary lights via the hi-beam switch the usual way on the Yamaha Tenere 700. The lights are controlled somehow by the ECU or something, and the high-beam wire runs 12v with low-beam on and 0.9v with high-beam switched on. It's a strange setup but it is still possible to get the aux lights working in this way with a standard automotive 4-pin relay. Watch the video to find out how this hack works. Disclaimer: use this information at your own risk. It has worked fine for me using the method described, but I am not liable if you fry your ECU or burn your bike to the ground by doing it wrong. It's also recommended to use a flyback diode to prevent voltage spikes, as per this diagram: mvdbr.com/files/t7-aux-diagra...
See the actual lights install here: • Budget Amazon Cree LED...
Information originally found in this forum post: www.tenere700.net/topic/834-a...
Sebti's page with the original wiring diagram (needs translation from French): traces-deux-roues.com/phare-a...
KZbin channel: / @mobyletterollers
Get your 4-pin relay here: amzn.to/3tr0IK4
Get a diode for your relay: ebay.us/4nt8Rn
Our Website: mvdbr.com
Get Merch: mvdbr.com/shop
Support Us: / mvdbr
Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/mvdbrenduro
Instagram: / mvdbr.enduro
Facebook: / mvdbrenduro
KZbin: / mvdbr
We use & recommend:
Goldentyre Tyres: www.goldentyreaustralia.com.au
B&B Off-Road Accessories: bboffroad.com.au
SRC Adventure Moto: srcadventuremoto.com.au
Nelson Rigg Gear: nelsonrigg.com.au
Komine Jackets: www.komine.com.au
Olight Torches: www.olightstore.com.au/?strea...
Josh: 2020 Yamaha Tenere 700
Nat: 2020 KTM 390 Adventure
Cameras: Canon G7X Mk II

[@MVDBR]

Thanks to Mick (HavaCrack) I've since discovered it's a good idea in this instance to add a flyback diode to the relay to prevent electrical spikes going to the bike's computer. I've added the diode to the following diagram: mvdbr.com/files/t7-aux-diagram.jpg

[@HavaCrack]

I have created a short video of the voltage spike on a relay in a 12vlt system. The video will demonstrate a voltage spike of 150+volts when no diode exists and the relay is turned off. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bH3SdnejfKiDiJo The best method of adding relays to all modern vehicles is to buy one with the inbuilt diode. Regards, Mick

[@white-rider]

May I ask why you don't trust the ECU drivers to have built in flyback diodes, but trust it to be able to handle the short circuit your diode may create after blowing up?

[@HavaCrack]

@@white-rider Do you know if the ecu has an inbuilt flyback diode? Not sure why it would as the ecu design would be as the sink/source (switch either a bjt or mosfet) and as there is no relay after the ecu that would necessitate a flyback diode. Further I am sure the ecu design never intended to have a relay in the circuit. Not sure why you would say the installed diode or a relay with an inbuilt diode would blow up. Not saying a diode cannot fail but if it is sized correctly then there is no reason it would. An exposed diode may have more risk of failing due to moisture though. Even if the ecu had an inbuilt flyback diode which would be reasonable for a circuit that switches a bjt or mosfet then that diode would be around the transistor, adding a flyback diode (or realy with inbuilt diode) would still add protection to the ecu as you are removing large dc voltage spikes. As you have raised the question, then: 1/, Can you let me know if there is a flyback diode inbuilt into the ecu. 2/. Are you recommending to people who may use this mod to put in NO protection with a diode? And, if so what is your helpful advice to them? The better solution to the whole relay use in the circuit would be to totally isolate it via an optocoupler/isolator switching a relay. Happy for constructive discussion. Mick

[@white-rider]

​@@HavaCrack Hi Mick, as to why it could fail -- ECU and relays are sealed, but a diode soldered to the outside of the relay is still exposed to the elements. I'm not saying it's destined to happen, only could happen. As to why having inbuilt flyback diode inside the ECU -- there are relays that are driven directly by ECU. For example, headlight relay, which turns on the headlight only after the engine has started, or radiator fan motor relay. Even ignition coils are driven directly by ECU, and I'm pretty sure those don't have flyback diodes in them. That said, I don't know for sure if ECU load driver for that specific circuit has flyback diode. The fastest way to find out would be to look at voltage spike on the bike, live circuit. Cheers.

[@HavaCrack]

@@white-rider That is why modern vehicles that have ecus and relays now have relays with either an inbuilt diode or resistor and why you should not put a non diode/resistor into a modern vehicles cicuit. As I said (and you) an exposed diode to moisture is not an ideal fix as moisture could affect the PN structure of the diode, so a relay with an inbuilt diode will afford more protection to that diode. Re the ecu I don't think that it would have a protection diode, and if it did it would not be a flyback/freewheeling type protection in this circuit as it would not 'freewheel" back through the relay. As stated an internal ecu "transistor" may have a diode but i am sure (could be wrong) that a bjt or mosfet does not cause emf as there is no coil that is collapsing. The t7 workshop manual does not provide any diagram of the ecu circuitry but there are no relays in between the ecu and the lighting cicuit. However if you refer to the manual there is a start relay and a fuel pump relay and they both have flyback diodes in the circuit which supports my theory that the ecu has no proection. Within the circuits there are also a nymber of zener diodes which would be there for voltage control. At the end of the day I am no expert and not claiming to be BUT the relay needs a flyback diode to create a safe path so the the voltage spike can dissapate and as I will now say for the final time a better design would be with via an optocoupler. Maybe I will make one it could make me rich!. As per my video I add to Joshs thread a relay on a 12vlt system produced a 150vlt voltage as the coil collapsed, it would do the same on a bkie. You can google for the workshop manual which can be downloaded for free it has a full electrical schemetic at the end in both b&w and another version in colour. Regards and thanks for the discussion. Mick

[@ronsmith5648]

i'm a retired electrician and it took me a whole day to wire my lightbar. then i realised it's the earth that is switched. when the high beam is off that yellow wire will show `12 volts....to avoid any meltdown just install the old fashioned way. cable from the battery via a fuse . run the yellow wire through a switch to keep it all legal. been running mine for 18 months now with no issues. 1 STEDI light bar and 2 spot lights. riding in the forest around Jimna at night is awesome....

[@HavaCrack]

The ecm creates the earth path when the headlights are off. Wiring the relay you are activating it by turning earth on via the yellow wire which is the reverse of how you would normally wire a relay. You should make sure your relay has an inbuilt diode (flyback) or if not put a diode across pins 85 & 86 as when the coil (in the relay) collapses it can cause large volatage spikes which you do not want to go back into your ecm (computer). Some Narva relays will have the diode already. Not that anyone has reported a blown computer by his method of not putting in a diode, I recommend to put in a diode as suggested. I presume that the computer is using a mosfet or transistor to switch power and eventually repeatative voltage spikes can damage those components (if they don't on the first occasion). Another alternate is to isolate the circuit altogether with and optocoupler or a SSR (solid state relay), but that is another story. Mick

[@MVDBR]

Thanks for the info mate 🤙

[@MVDBR]

Mick, is this the correct way to wire the diode or is the polarity the wrong way around? Electricity is a mystery to me 😒 mvdbr.com/files/t7-auxlights.jpg

[@HavaCrack]

Normally the pin 85 is the earth (your yellow tapped wire) and 86 is from +volts, but as you have copied the diagram from tenere700.net which has it the other way around (as per diagrams) we will stick with that. In this case turn you diode around the other way in your diagram. The band on the diode (cathode) will face the 12v source. If someone was to buy a relay with an inbuilt diode then they would have to change the wires on pins 85 (=earth) & 86 (+volts) for the inbuilt diode to work. In case anyone asks a 1n4001 diode will work. Mick

[@MVDBR]

@@HavaCrack great thank you mate, I actually meant to draw it the other way around haha 🤦‍♂️ Cheers

[@user-rf1dv7qo8m]

@@HavaCrack So if you purchased a relay with diode installed already you'd wire 85 to heated grips and 86 to lights? Sorry if this a double post but my first attempt seems to have disappeared. Thanks in advance and thanks for the video OP!!

[@jayzee2390]

Nice vid. Thanks for sharing. If you’re going to do you’re own low voltage wiring there are a few rules of thumb that I’ve learned over the years which will keep you out of trouble: 1. identify the maximum current draw of the device you’re wiring up (eg 120 watts @ 12v = 10 amps). 2. This combined with the length of cable run will determine the gauge of wire required. There are a few charts online to help work this out. 3. The wire gauge (the cross-sectional area of the copper) will determine the appropriate fuse size. 4. The fuse is there to protect the wire and prevent a fire in case of an over current and should always be located as close to the power source as possible. There’s no point placing a fuse at the draw end of a wire because if you get a short between the fuse and the power supply, the fuse won’t do anything and you’ll have a potential fire.👍

[@MVDBR]

Good stuff to know, cheers 👍

[@garyrustay4725]

Thank you for your drive to make the hi beams control the lights. This is how I was interested in its ooperation also. appreciate it!

[@MVDBR]

Cheers thanks for the comment 👌

[@JorgeGonzalez-ei6ft]

Bloody fantastic Josh. Perseverance. Your T7 viewers will love this one.🤙🤙

[@MVDBR]

Thanks Jorgie 🙌

[@user-rf1dv7qo8m]

@MVDR Enduro Cheers Josh, you've saved me a bunch of time, mate!! Worked a treat!!

[@MVDBR]

Awesome 🤙

[@DollyAndFamilyGetOutAndRide]

very good job josh

[@TheFoxyt2]

Worked great on my t7. Thanks for diagram!

[@MVDBR]

No worries, glad it helped!

[@morehanthanchewyproduction6823]

very clever. good vid Josh.

[@MVDBR]

Thanks Dave, stoked with the result!

[@HansSoloYolo]

Thank you for the video! Followed it to a T and my lights are working great.

[@MVDBR]

Great to hear!

[@antoniocanes2221]

Definitely not an electrician here lol, In the diagram you had heated grips, how can I wire it with just high beams and aux amber lights?

[@billcollins9058]

Nice one Josh thanks for your vid very handy. Ps shirt turned up mate cheers:)

[@MVDBR]

Hope they got it right that time mate!

[@soupysocksenduro]

Great research and info! well done

[@MVDBR]

Thx Jeff 🤙

[@BikerBits]

Well done Josh! 👍

[@MVDBR]

Thanks Mark 🍻

[@FULLPELTAdventures]

great video Josh.

[@MVDBR]

Thx FPP 🤙

[@hughmanoid1971]

Top job brother. Let's get a cold one.😎🤙

[@MVDBR]

Best idea I've heard all day 🍻🍻

[@ianferrier235]

Interesting way to wire lights, thanks Josh, even though I don't have a t7 .👍🏻👍🏻

[@MVDBR]

Yeah bit weird but if it works it works 🤷‍♂️👌 Thanks Ian

[@ianferrier235]

@@MVDBR exactly

[@brownharr1]

Just did the same wiring on my Africa Twin a couple of weeks ago. I did a switch for my aux lights is the only difference. I even have the wire coiled up in the front of my bike waiting for parts. (crash bars) Haha. Great info to pass along.

[@MVDBR]

Cheers mate good stuff 👌👌

[@HavaCrack]

On the AT you can tap into the light relay for the power/trigger for aux lights. The AT light relay is on the RHS of the bike near the seat but behind the side cover (2016+ crf1000) It is normal wiring /polarity, not like the T7. Mick

[@brownharr1]

@@HavaCrack I'll check it out. Thanks.

[@gumbysenduro6546]

Cut that yellow wire and put a switch in, Aux lights have to be switched independently too the high beam for redgo. Awesome job :)

[@HavaCrack]

Dont put the switch in the yellow wire otherwise the main lights wont work as it is part of that circuit. The switch will go in this case from his 12v wire he tapped into in the handgrips, but yes it should have a switch to be legal. Mick

[@gumbysenduro6546]

@@HavaCrack So whats wrong with switching the trigger wire,disconnecting it from the relay wont stop the main light from working. Power to the relay would be switched from the key i would imagine.

[@HavaCrack]

Maybe I should clarify. You could put a switch in line between the relay and up to where you tapped into the yellow wire in the loom, but you cannot put a switch in line on the original yellow wire as this acts as both a source or sink for the main light to the computer so if you disconnected that line with a switch then the main lights would not work. Thus better to have the switch in the +v source side of the relay. Mick

[@gumbysenduro6546]

@@HavaCrack Umm Yep

[@HavaCrack]

@@gumbysenduro6546 thanks. Mick

[@ChiliBuRevolution]

good on you for persevering eh Josh! I am sure that French guys bright idea will look bangin' once you've got your flood lights installed eh, be able to see those Orbsies webs from 100m away! always enjoy spending some time with you all, blessing eh every day, have a good one brothers & sisters! B^)

[@MVDBR]

Oh brother ya don't go riding at night in orb season that's just crazy talk 😬 Thanks mate!

[@elderrider9298]

those are great connectors

[@AusJase]

Thanks Josh……good work sorting all that out and sharing 👍 Out of curiosity, what mounting and lights did you go with? (As I can’t wait until the you do the vid 😆…..answer on patreon if you want😉)

[@MVDBR]

I'll send ya some links 👍

[@leifalbihn9437]

Nice one Josh! 👍 Now you have do it on Nats 390, we need to know how to do that on a KTM too.

[@MVDBR]

Maybe 🤔 Someone else needs to have done it first so I can copy it though 😜

[@Blitzey450]

the joys of CANbus

[@TheBlackT7]

Hi man I install led blinker and I would like to know to what wire color do I have to connect it? DRL light Thanks

[@MVDBR]

No idea I have stock blinkers

[@gordonborsboom7460]

How about the “Flash to Pass” switch at the top of the RH switch block? Does it work on the lights?

[@MVDBR]

Not sure will try to remember to test that out when I get the lights, I never use that switch tho 🤷‍♂️

[@white-rider]

It does work, because it's switching the same circuit as high-beam switch, but doesn't stay "on" when you release it.

[@KLRmurdercycle]

Good tip for all new bikes that are more and more like cars. Using a separate switch gets annoying and becomes unsafe in situations, when it can't be mounted at finger tips.

[@MVDBR]

Yeah I don't think I would have bothered putting them on the bike if I couldn't do it with the hi-beam. Glad to have got it sorted tho!

[@bikeryda3558]

Great 👌👌

[@MVDBR]

Thanks!

[@everythingtenere]

Hmm, I’m confused 😅. The yellow is the “on” wire for high beam. All switching is done in the high tech oem headlight. So for me this would be the logical way to do it. Not sure why it would be strange or hard 😊. I’m going to install a led ramp any day now, easiest off course would to be connect it straight to high beam power cables, no relay etc, if amps are enough. But your way is how “you should” do it. And after hearing about the issues ppl had, I will do it this way.

[@everythingtenere]

Fun that it’s a negativ (yellow) like a Norton system. A bit the otherway around 😅

[@sharrison56]

The voltage on the yellow wire is the opposite of what you would expect. 1v when the high beams are off and around 0 when they are on. The relay opens when the yellow wire has 12v and closes when it drops. That is the whole purpose of this exercise. Correcting for the LED headlights.

[@jefftaswelder9154]

👍😎

[@m2goingcyclic541]

Can't thank you enough for posting this video. As wonderful as this solution is, I would love to have it so my Denali DR1's (with Datadim) come on 50% power with the low beams, and automatically switch to high beam alongside the factory high beams when I switch the high beams on. I wonder if this is possible?

[@MVDBR]

It was enough to me to figure this much out mate haha so no idea on that, but I'm sure it could be done with the right technical know-how 🍻

[@aaronsmith5103]

can you link where to order the diode

[@MVDBR]

Ugh yeah sorry I thought I did. I got mine on eBay here ebay.us/4nt8Rn

[@markhall2811]

What amp wire did you use mate?

[@MVDBR]

I can't remember what it was I got, sorry mate 🤦‍♂️ It was a decent gauge though 👍

[@keepyourdatatoolsafe]

Consolidated Alloys 200g Solder Flux makes the solder penetrate the wire buy it at bunnings 12 bucks cheers

[@MVDBR]

Rosin core solder 👌

[@the_drone_co]

Mateeee is there any suggestions why after doing this my lights turn off when engine starts? Pleaseeee help

[@the_drone_co]

Even tried to restore bike back to factory. No wiring. Lights run until engine turned on. Thanks guys

[@MVDBR]

Yeah you've cocked something up mate, sorry I can't help though I only know what I know and when it comes to electronic wizardry, that ain't much at all 🙈

[@the_drone_co]

@@MVDBR arghhh thanks for the reply! Dohhhhhhhhhhhhhh

[@MVDBR]

@@the_drone_co wish I could be more help mate. But yeah I know several people who have done this successfully so it's a bit weird that you're having issues. Bloody electrics

[@Rushdie01]

@@the_drone_cohey mate did you find a solution ? Did you have to replace the ecu? I’ve done the same thing to mine.

[@peterdawson7775]

👍😎