Terminator X Tuning - Improve Foxbody Cold Starts with IAC Parked Position

[@larrycollins2818]

You have the best Videos about the Holley Terminator X. GREATLY APPRECIATED I would love to see more. Thanks again

[@lochnessfox3441]

I really can’t wait to get your help when I get this system in my car. I’m positive it’s gonna be a world of difference! Thanks for all your advice on my rides!

[@LeechMotorsports]

Looking forward to it!

[@russellbroadwell]

Best Terminator X Foxbody tuning I have seen on KZbin! Can you make a video on injector end angle?

[@velr50gt]

I agree this is something that needs to be revised, but not every car/engine is the same. I have a microsquirt on my 93 347 stroker and mine uses about 38% parked and 32% cranking. The key is to make sure you first start the engine and warm it up, disconnect the IAC and bring the idle to where you want it to be and then adjust the TPS and IAC as needed. The IAC is to compensate for changes in load, but you should not depend on it for other parameters than need attention. I am switching to a Holley here soon and since the software is free, I pretty much have everything set to where I think it would work best. I am pretty sure it's going to need to be revised but very little though. You are doing a great job explaining this Holley stuff. Thank you!

[@christopherc3017]

Thank you from the 918. Been also figuring mine out on the 93. Getting the ac iac kick down right during the summertime was a little interesting. Cold starts are almost dialed in with the weather temp changes.

[@PaKoArtsc]

great info thank you, will use with my speeduino in Hyundai G4JS turbo project

[@Diondo26]

need to work on this ... Car starts very good but idle swings around for a few seconds .. warm start is ok...good video thanks

[@hondamojo1]

Thanks for the info.

[@timallen5951]

You have the best and informational Videos on the Terminator X for the Ford platform that I have found!! I NEED HELP!! are you in?

[@LeechMotorsports]

Of course. Email me at [e-mail] with your contact info and what you’re needing help with and we will get you sorted out. If you have data logs and a copy of your global file, send that stuff on over as well.

[@95turbostang21]

I'm like a kid in a candy store when I see a new video of leech Motorsports posting a new Terminator X video. Hey Matt you helped me on two data logs that you sent me and the car feels way better and I thank you for your help. I was going to send you a email with a data log but I did not want to overstep too much but one thing that I have noticed since I owned my Holley stand-alone well I'm going to say about two months after installing I have always had to crank the car twice in order to get it to fire now what I see in the log on first crank RPM would go to around a hundred or so then I would see a dip and RPM would show error then on second crank it does not show error at all any thoughts on what that could be do you think I should start with another TFI module

[@LeechMotorsports]

I would recommend we try to get your fuel super dialed in first, then revisit spark/timing if needed. And trust me, no overstepping. Here to help.

[@v8only]

I cannot get idle adjusted so that iac reads anything but 0. If I crank the idle speed screw almost all the way out, that will finally kick in the IAC, however it’s out too much and won’t start up right like that or idle. It doesn’t seem to be any kind of a sweet spot where I can get that IAC to hold at any percentage other than zero when the throttle plates are adjusted to about where they should be. Any idea?

[@LeechMotorsports]

Readjust the screw so hat it holds 0 all the time. Do a tps reset and restart the car.

[@LeechMotorsports]

The at that point, let the car come up to full temp. Back off the screw an 1/8 turn and wait 60 seconds to see if the timing starts to increase, the IAC position moves at all, and if rpms are dropping. After 60 seconds of idle is still high, turn another 1/4 turn and wait. Waiting is the key part and doing only tiny turns at a time. When you get it to the point where IAC still shows zero but it is finally at the target idle speed, snap the throttle open and closed once, let it settle back out. Then see if the IAC position starts to climb. If it does, wait until it stabilizes. If it doesn’t bumpy he throttle screw down again by just a hair.

[@v8only]

Thx. I’ve tried that but iac always slowly tapers back to 0

[@LeechMotorsports]

What is your timing set to in the idle area of your base timing table? Do you have idle spark enabled? What is your combo? It is possible that a change in timing could help stabilize things as well.

[@v8only]

Spark is enabled. However i just tried unplugging iac and no effect at all. So i put a volt meter in the connector. One side is getting 14v while running. Other side nothing. Tried continuity test for ground - probe from volt meter on negative wire. Ohm with sound. Side of the connector opposite that was getting voltage nothing. However what is really weird is when I run the same test on the side that was getting a 14 V it beeps like it has continuity between the ground circuit. But I don’t understand how the same connector can get ground and 14 V at the same time. It’s not my meter I’m kind of tripping out on this. Do you know what kind of signal I should get out of the connector? The obvious thing as a bad IAC, but it was working when I had the fox body computer on it last

[@89foxix75]

Great video! I have used this information to get my cold starts to start perfectly. My issue is when the car is nicely warmed up it takes longer to start. Is there somewhere in the tune I should be looking at and adjusting? Thanks.

[@LeechMotorsports]

May want to go into your startup enrichment and try giving it more or less cranking fuel at the higher temps.

[@89foxix75]

@@LeechMotorsports Thank you.

[@LeechMotorsports]

If slightly pressing the throttle pedal makes it start easier, you probably need a little less fuel. If pushing the pedal all the way to the floor then releasing while cranking makes it start better, you probably need considerably less fuel. If pedaling doesn’t help at all, but after extended cranking the car finally sluggishly starts, it probably needs more cranking fuel and/or higher priming pulse percentage.

[@89foxix75]

@@LeechMotorsports If I give it just a tad bit of gas it will start. I even ordered a tfi relocation kit thinking it might be the tfi getting very hot. I switched to long tubes and noticed a greater amount of heat. Thanks for the tips. I am going to take a look at my fuel at hot temp.

[@89foxix75]

Oh and to add my priming pulse percentage is at 150%. Should this be more?

[@scott5.0hh44]

Switched to the Holley stepper IAC. Should I use these settings?

[@LeechMotorsports]

No. The valves are completely different. You’ll likely need lower duty cycle.

[@kevin_nagle]

my buddy wanted me to use the non-fox Term X because it uses a GM IAC sensor, over the years he has not had great success with the Ford IAC but i'm wondering if he just hasn't put much time like this into the Ford IAC... Thoughts?

[@LeechMotorsports]

You can use either one honestly. Their duty cycle vs. airflow is totally unique to each valve. But either way, holley’s idle air control during dece and idle is pretty awful. So the Ford pwm valve’s non linear response during the first 17% of opening can actually be used to your advantage.

[@matthewnosal6893]

😊

[@TurboRanger351]

Do any of these settings work on the super sniper stealth efi? Thanks.

[@LeechMotorsports]

No that’s a pretty different situation. But I do have a future video coming out that introduces a very universal approach to getting awesome startups with any Holley efi product.

[@TurboRanger351]

@@LeechMotorsports do you offer any tunes for sale for super sniper stealth systems?

[@LeechMotorsports]

@@TurboRanger351 we do not sell canned tunes, but we can be hired on an hourly basis to assist with tuning or tuning related education. There is a sticky post on our Facebook page about how to book such services.

[@TurboRanger351]

@@LeechMotorsports thank you.

[@GarrettSmith-dk5wg]

Has anyone else experienced a gasp of air from there cold air intake when shutting the car off?

[@lochnessfox3441]

My car has never idled on its own at cold startup. Over 5 years now.

[@LeechMotorsports]

It’s probably a combination of not enough air and too much fuel. In rare instances o have also seen people that don’t really leverage startup enrichment like they should and end up starving the engine for fuel after a cold start.

[@lochnessfox3441]

@@LeechMotorsports but with mine being just a sct chip I have no way to change anything here at home. I’m gonna get all the bits to get a handle on my vehicles at home. Just money and time for now. Holidays have put the stops on my spending. Have a great day buddy. Thanks again for your advice

[@lochnessfox3441]

@@LeechMotorsports oh yeah and also do you recommend the dual sync distributor or is the TGIF sufficient?

[@lochnessfox3441]

Tfi

[@hotrodray6802]

🔔😎👍👍

[@kingkobra8774]

IN the BRUW2L tunning video you correct this video, saying to "throw it away". I would ask that you take this video down. because although it is informative, it will leave your ride screaming @ almost 3000rpm on start-up. Or edit it to correct the logic. Thank you by the way you have really helped this shade tree learn to tune.

[@rhino5ohh]

If you have the car idling right, at operating temp, with the IAC disconnected (in other words, you have the throttle body blade set correctly), these numbers are definitely the WRONG advice. If you have the blade set correctly and do this, cold starts will result in the car idling crazy high during the "hold time" because the parked position percentages are in the upper 90s at colder temps. There is no reason you need the IAC park position set that high if your throttle body blade is set correctly