Tesserak Restoration: Holding Methods

[@shervinhaei2811]

I am a new porcelain restore. Your videos are helping me a lot. I appreciate you providing us experience and tips which you learned during years. Thank you Martin

[@marsgitar]

You are welcome. Good luck to you.

[@mariannegermann]

As always, your vast experience will help those of us who are learning. Thank you so much for your time and sharing your expertise with us.

[@marsgitar]

Thank You, and You're welcome.

[@dddaly2605]

Hi Martin, thank you so much for your tips..they are really helpful!!

[@marsgitar]

I'm glad to here this. You are welcome

[@tasnikas746]

Hi Martin, thanks for sharing part of your vast knowledge in porcelain restoration. I was just wondering if by any way would be helpful to use a fast setting adhesive (like within seconds) to hold such delicate and awkward to hold pieces, of course if there’s any adhesives that are suitable for this kind of applications. Thank you once more for taking some time to share with us your valuable knowledge. Take care from Down Under.

[@marsgitar]

I'm sorry to say, . . . no. CA glue (superglue) and hot glue come quickly to mind but these are NOT good choices for that kind of holding. They usually create more problems than they solve. I do not recommend them. There are light sensitive (UV light) epoxies and resins out there, and I have used them, but I don't recommend them unless you have experience with them. You might look into those and do your own research/experimentation with them before you try them on your professional work. Good luck to you.

[@tasnikas746]

@@marsgitar thank you for your reply, but I am not in any way practising art objects restoration, I am just an enthusiast of fine art and your skills as a professional. It was just a silly thought of making your work easier. Thank you again for taking the time to reply.

[@laineymcd4074]

Thank you. I haven't gone through all your old videos yet to see if you have already done this, but would appreciate ideas on how to deal with gilt edged, or rings on crockery when repairing a chip that goes through this.

[@marsgitar]

I use Sylmasta brand set of gold paint to replace the gold on ceramics. The colors can be mixed to adjust color matching.

[@laineymcd4074]

@@marsgitar Thank you

[@lavibenari1472]

Hello Mr. Scherer, I am a grateful follower of your excellent works including this one. In one of your old videos you mentioned that you are using a special self done formula of Elmer's' adhesive to glue porous ceramics. Can you shed a light a light on this issue?. I mean, how to strengthen "Elmer's glue all".

[@marsgitar]

I'm glad you enjoy the videos. The Elmer's glue modification you refer to is in some older videos. I stopped using this formula quite a while ago. It turned out to be not as good as I once thought. Though it won't affect the projects on which it was used, I found that I could not improve on the Elmer's formula. I've gone back to using the original Elmer's formula. I will not disclose the recipe for my "failed" formula.

[@lavibenari1472]

@@marsgitar Thank you

[@cliffordknowles1296]

Brilliant. Thanks.

[@kathleengebhart8736]

You mention using a hot box to accelerate a cure for adhesive. How long does the piece rest in the hot box and at what temp?

[@marsgitar]

my hot box is set to about 145-150 F. For curing hxtal I usually leave it over night )12 to 24 hrs.

[@kathleengebhart8736]

Thanks so much for the speedy reply. This helps a lot. Many many thanks also for taking the time to share your experience.

[@zaur1377]

Hi Martin! I need your help with an issue I'm facing. I recently used ColdGlaze Pro2 to repair my old ceramic plate. After leaving it to cure for 3-4 days, I washed it under warm tap water, but to my surprise, all the glaze came off. On Sylmasta site, it is mentioned that the product "cures to a hard, smooth finish with excellent non-yellowing qualities. ColdGlaze is water-resistant, very tough, and offers high strength surface adhesion. It has been tested for 20 cycles in a dishwasher at 60°C without signs of deterioration." Can you please assist me with this issue? I'm not sure what I am doing wrong. Thank you.

[@marsgitar]

I've been doing ceramic restoration/repairs for almost 20 yrs. and this has only happened to me once . . . so far. I wasn't sure why it happened then. However, it seems to me it can only be an adhesion problem. It is important to prep the surface you are about to paint. I'm sure you do this but the cleaner has to be one that doesn't leave any kind of residue behind. Be aware that Windex type cleaners leave a silicone polish behind that helps repel water and look shiny. Don't use this cleaner. On ceramics I use 409 and very hot tap water for first cleaning. Rinse thoroughly, air dry. If I think there was any wax or polish, then I also clean with ammonia. Acetone will remove oils and grease that other cleaners don't. I've never had to use an abrasive to roughen the surface to make cold glaze adhere. The surface prep is important. Also, I start with a coat or two of cold glaze, so I can roughen that for the paints to stick. Cold glaze sticks better than paint. So, if your cold glaze came off and took the paint with it. It was your paint that had the adhesion problem, not the cold glaze. I hope this helps. Good luck!

[@bakouboss8969]

Mr Martin am a big fan years now. I just wanted to ask your opinion, on a restoration i do. I got a big red clay pot broken in manny pieces and was thinking to maybe stick it all together with tape and then penetrate h xtal on it. But am afraid red clay will absorb much of that and not stick. From the other hand i thought of using clear epoxy to stick some parts and then connect all the big pieces together ,but am afraid they will not connect properly at the end. Please some advice proff. Appreciate , peace from a young restorer from greece.

[@marsgitar]

Hxtal should not be used on porous material. It won't hold. Too much of it would be absorbed by the porosity of the material. Use for non-porous material only. For porous materials, use white or yellow carpenters glue. In the U.S. it's called "Elmer's Glue". It is formulated for porous materials. If you are careful, you could still rebuild your repair in sections if you want to. I hope this helps. Good luck to you!

[@bakouboss8969]

@@marsgitar Thank you Proff i really appreciate your answer. So to be clear , i should not even bother using h xtal on ceramics? Or i should measure porosity of material? Sorry if am being annoying.

[@marsgitar]

@@bakouboss8969 It's a porosity issue. If the material is porous, don't use Hxtal. Use white or yellow glue. If the material is non-porous, like porcelain or glass, then you can use Hxtal.

[@georgemartinezjr]

Could you clp a pair of Forceps to the Rubbet Band

[@marsgitar]

yes, that would work fine.

[@michaelmcgee8543]

How fascinatung!

[@susanaisa4209]

Pueden traducirlo al español????

[@georgemartinezjr]

This could be helpful I'm other items l8ke Toy Repair. A machine Part Etc