Testing Drill Press Run-Out and Table Squaring

For a drill press to operate properly, the drill bit must run true, and the table should be perfectly square to spindle travel. In this video, Jerry Cole of In-Line Industries shows simple techniques that will insure your drill press will operate at peak performance.

[@christopher_hawn]

Thanks for this refresher, Mr. Cole. I've had an A-Line-It kit for over a decade, and just setup a new drill press I've got to calibrate. This video was exactly what I needed.

[@AffordBindEquipment]

5:49 no, it's not perfectly square because you didn't check front to back, and didn't mention it needing to be done. You can't assume that since there is no adjustment that it comes perfect from the factory. I had to shim mine to get it 90 deg. to the spindle.

[@jimgresham5529]

You must be building a nuclear reactor.

[@AffordBindEquipment]

@@jimgresham5529 when you drill shallow holes (like in 1/4" steel, being 1 deg off really doesn't make a difference. I drill in 3" wood and those holes have to be straight. It would seem that with any machine, one would want it as accurate as possible. I guess not....

[@alanmumford8806]

Jerry, your test only verifies squareness - at that point - of near-zero spindle travel. It's a good starting point, and one has to start somewhere, but you need to repeat the test when the spindle is extended and/or when the table is lowered to a different place on the column. I'm betting that most big-box-store drill presses will be way out when the spindle is extended... I know from experience that, when fully extended, the spindle of my cheapo drill press is as floppy as Hugh Grant's hair! Similarly, I wouldn't like to vouch for the column straightness... :-( Life may be somewhat less tricky for owners of 'proper' industrial grade tools.

[@Ibaneddie76]

I HAVE THIS TOOL HE IS USING, IT'S AMAZING I USE IT TO SQUARE AND TRUE EVERY TOOL IN MY SHOP. IT MADE A HUGE DIFFERENCE IN THE PRECISION OF THE WORK I DO. IT'S NOT CHEEP THOUGH.

[@hdrjunkie]

how do you make it so your drill bit is a perfect 90Deg. to your table? and then so your slide vice is moving in a perfectly straight line below the bit? I want to clamp a tube in the vise and then drill a hole in it, advance the vice forward 1/2" and drill another hole...four times in total. But I want them all straight and uniform.

[@MrBonners]

long leg allen wrench, short leg in chuck. hand rotate chuck and measure table to end of long leg at various locations

[@mr16ga]

If the drill press base and column is level then you could use a level. Using a dial indicator to tram the table is a better option because it reduces the number of unknowns you have to deal with.

[@Andluth]

Where can I get a tip set?

[@edrowesuave4388]

Hi Jerry.Can you tell me where to find the alignment tool.I've looked and am having trouble finding one.

[@michaelgesualdo5667]

I believe the tool used is called the A-Line-It (this particular model used is their "Deluxe" one). I know this is way late, and you probably either found it or something similar already, but I figure this should help anyone else who comes along looking for it.

[@softailgarage]

Wouldn't it be easier to use a level when checking the table or is that not accurate enough?

[@dgale1023]

Hey Jerry, you said drill press of this quality. Is that a loewer end Chinese HF

[@DIYApprentice]

It looks like a Taiwanese drill press.

[@durdenpainting3853]

I thought about using a level but dont think my bench is perfectly level, only close.

[@MAGAMAN]

Levels are the worst way to to this. You need Square, not Level.

[@hogwire100]

squaring side to side is only half the battle, what about front to back where there is no adjustment, now what?

[@NOLALongboards]

If used for woodworking and this was an issue I would make an auxiliary table that can be shimmed as needed.

[@mariner4055]

You verify what the table is in relation to the head then shim the head connection to the column. Then of coarse you must assume that the column is straight. Or you shim the item to be drilled to the drill.

[@darrenx5699]

My table has a setscrew under the table bevel lock nut. When you tighten the screw, the front of the table raises.

[@christopher_hawn]

@@darrenx5699 Mine does that too! So frustrating having to shim that.

[@garyr7027]

Nice to have that dial indicator, but if you don't have one both these test can be done by using a pencil.

[@MAGAMAN]

A pencil will not tell you how much you are off.

[@garyr7027]

@@MAGAMAN that's true it will not, but you can at least tell it's off. The trick with the pencil is what to look for, if the mark is the same all the way around then no runout. If it's not half way around or more then you have runout... the mark has to at least be halfway around or more. If the mark is thicker on one side and thinner on the other, it's hitting more on that side and runout is minimum. It depends on how much is too much for your needs really. How precise do you need it?... then decide if a pencil mark will be good enough or not.