ROTARY TABLES, how to cut an angle, how to produce a disc, how to accurately radius corners

[@way2manyhobbies]

I watched your heat treating video as well as this one as they were both relevant recently. I realize they're not your newest videos but I just wanted to thank you as they are great, relevant videos and I look forward to watching many more. They have helped me greatly.

[@JCHaywire]

This gentleman has a very intriguing affect. Excellent information presented here.

[@Alfzilla8]

Thank you! Saw the set up, saw the mustache, saw the blue on the pointer finger and knew I was on the right vid.

[@brentp201]

This is gold! Thank you sir!

[@rayfalcone6897]

Hi Mark, great video thanks for sharing great content.......

[@normtheteacher5485]

Thanks! I am going to get a rotary table and your video is very helpful in deciding which one to get and what I may be able to do with it.

[@satbirsharma1305]

Milling machine is good and your explain is also very good

[@gordonagent7037]

Thanks for a very instructive video

[@jt-gm6ji]

Very informative, much appreciated sir!

[@andreturnbull1259]

Very informative video. I have tried doing arcs, like a cam would have, without much success. Perhaps you could do a video on that too.

[@royreynolds108]

What you are describing is arcs on a different center which involves being eccentric to the original center. This brings in complications of set overs in aligning the part and tools.

[@royreynolds108]

This is a matter of being eccentric to the original center.

[@minskmade]

great video ...thank you for the awesome explanation...love your channel.

[@Rustinox]

That is a very clear explanation.

[@stevegreen2432]

This video is meant for for the novice, and it covers the basics well. But please add the point that the work must be spaced off the table if you are cutting full depth. If you leave out the spacers you get a nice pattern on the top surface of your rotary table!

[@davidjames1007]

Thanks for a very informative video. Would like to see the setup for cutting a recess radius which is large say 2" cut on the outside of a part.

[@thatoldbob7956]

Excellent lecture, thanks Bob

[@Gertjan1975]

that was a verry usefull video, many thanks for that

[@cogentdynamics]

Thank you Marc! As always, you do a better job explaining this stuff than others. I really enjoy watching your videos and always learn. I am geometrically challenged, not a good thing for someone who likes to machine stuff. What about if we mount an x-y table on top of the rotary table? That sounds good to me but makes my brain hurt. Would perpetual motion ensue? 😋

[@pieterbotes8938]

Brother, do you perhaps know what the pitch is of the worm in your rotary table?

[@wrongfullyaccused7139]

Are any rotary tables or semi universal dividing heads made in the USA?

[@johnwilson3668]

Another method for machining an accurate angle I use a sine bar and slip gauges pushed up to ground slot stops. This method is very fast and extremely accurate

[@stephanedesrosiers2436]

Hi Marc. Very instructive video. I have one question : what is the size of the rotary table in this video (I realise that it's on a big milling machine)? And based on your experience, what is the best size for a roraty table to fit on a milling machine like one that you have in your home shop? I thank you.

[@larryschweitzer4904]

I'm pretty sure this is an 8"/200mm judging from the size of his hand next to it. I have an 8". I considered a 10 but they are so much heavier I would have needed a mechanical lift to mount it. What I've found is that you very quickly run out of room on the table by the time you take clamping space into consideration. I ended up casting an 11" auxiliary table to mount on my 8" RT. More clamping slots is also better. My 8" table has 3 making it easy to mount a 3 jaw. When I made the auxiliary table I put 6 in it, much better. One thing to keep in mind in selecting the size of the RT is the amount of vertical space you have available on your mill. The thickness of the table plus the length of the tooling plus the thickness of the work quickly adds up.

[@etle113]

Great video thanks. I have a question regarding the alignment of a hole in a part to the rotation axis. You suggested the use of the dial indicator. My first reflex, as a week-end machinist would have been to use a pin, a point or even a straight drill bit in the Chuck and lower the quill until the pin gets in the hole. Is there a reason to use the dial indicator again on the part? I guess that precision is part of the answer, but under what tolerance would you consider using the dial indicator rather than a pin? My other question is how would you suggest aligning to round a corner that doesn't have a hole already or in which the hole isn't concentric to the required radius? My best guess would be to create a jig with a hold at the center of the required radius. Align that hole to the axis of the table. Put in some alignment plates as in the example in your video and than proceed on the actual part. I'm curious to hear if you have a less laborious method. Thanks

[@peeeoii2738]

The reason we use dial test indicators is because the pin or drill has flex inside the chuck/collet tool holder you maybe able get the pin/drill to fit in the hole but you can be around .003-.005 off from the center axis of the spindle bore to the hole.

[@andyb7754]

Very informative video. Do everyone a favor and get a lapel mic because the echo in the video sucks.

[@edward-x3s6f]

Ty Sir

[@Michael-he7xn]

Helpful video Marc! I picked up a rotary table like yours years ago but I’ve never had the opportunity to use it (I need a mill...). A question for you. What is the hole down the middle? Is it a Morse Taper or just parallel? Thanks, Mike

[@aceroadholder2185]

Usually a Morse taper so you can install a dead center. Especially useful when the rotary table is flipped up so the bottom is now vertical. Often a rotary table will have a tail stock so that the work may be held between centers much like you would do with a dividing head.

[@Michael-he7xn]

Aceroadholder Interesting. It’s fascinating how many creative ways that one job can be tackled. You just need to buy or make accessories.

[@dudleycornman1624]

Once you center the table by your method, its not a bad idea to put an indicator in the hole and rotate the table to make sure it rotates accurately?

[@dudleycornman1624]

@Notus Notus I would bet that a good many (at least imports) are worthless... :)

[@ClipperDays]

I can't help but think that aligning the table should be the first thing you do before even mounting and aligning the work. Otherwise some good info in the video.

[@aceroadholder2185]

Usually a rotary table will have slots milled in the base for keys to align the rotary table with the machine table (like a good milling machine vice). This makes the set up very quick.

[@joewest2560]

How do you cut through that piece in a full circle without crashing the mill into the rotary table when you cut through

[@MrShobar]

Place a piece of waste material underneath the piece. Sometimes, masonite is used.

[@joewest2560]

@@MrShobar yes sir but I'm wondering if there's any secret way to hold a thin piece down and surface it or cut through it without having to move it

[@lockgessner]

We have used double sided tape many times, also if you cutting something heavier you can set it on blocks.

[@royreynolds108]

There are 360 degrees in a circle, 60 minutes in a degree, and 60 seconds in a minute.

[@andrewbrimmer1797]

Don't you need to space it off the table to protect the table

[@darkeneddoorwaydesigns1049]

The information is good, but nothing is as helpful as actually seeing the operations done.

[@imagineaworld]

I didnt evem know angles had minutes! A quick google made that make sense for anyone else womdering

[@royreynolds108]

360 degrees in a circle, 60 minutes in a degree, and 60 seconds in a minute.

[@royreynolds108]

There are 360 degrees in a circle, 60 minutes in a degree, and 60 seconds in a minute.

[@TheOffCycle]

To do a 3” hole with a 1/2” bit you need to SUBTRACT half the tool diameter not ADD it. From center, moving over 1 1/4” puts the center of the tool at 1 1/4” and the outside edge at 1 1/2” which gives you your 3” circle.

[@ilyes906]

en longue francais svp i not speak english

[@birtvollenweider6951]

I'm sorry sir. You are an excellent machinist and an excellent instructor. Unfortunately working with the rotary is complex, and it demands a more thorough presentation.

[@Festivejelly]

Kinda informative but you didnt actually show any examples.

[@CJ-ty8sv]

16:58 unless you can hit better than a tenth (.0001") accuracy with your X and Y movements or your Rotary Table is not actually accurate down to 10 sec arc angle, that statement is completely false. With a Coordinate layout BC, if you are off on just one move (X or Y), you caused two errors, 1, Different BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter) but it will be negligible. 2, the relative angle For example, lets say that you are wanting a 6 Bolt evenly spaced BC on a 2" PCD, that would be 60° intervals and thus if say the first hole was in the 3 o'clock position, that would be a X move of .500" and a Y move of .866" (both from Center) to get to the 2nd hole. Now lets say that your X move was actually .5005 (just a half thou too much) the resulting hole is at 59°58'28" and the true PCD that that hole center is on a 2.0004" PCD (as mentioned above, negligible) but that angular error is larger (by quite a bit) than the accuracy of the vernier scale since the error is off by 0°1'32" and since the Rotary table used here can go down to 10 sec. intervals, that half thou error in Coordinate layout method is *9 times worse* than what the rotary table can do. Using the same example above but only being off .0001" on say X (actual move was .5001"), that is still an angular error of 20 second (actual will be 59°'59'40") or 2 times worse than the rotary table error would be if it is accurate down to 10 seconds.

[@4425nortonave]

Please use a lavalier microphone, the echo in the shop is distracting and it’s difficult to hear you clearly.

[@GTRliffe]

toooooo slow for such a simple job