THE 2 Natural Ingredients to PLANT HEALTH

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Want to learn EVEN MORE? Check out my Soil Course : permaculture.study/courses/soil-course/

[@smellycat249]

I’ll spill the beans, the magic ingredient is love.

[@shapiemau2244]

I tend to agree with you. Everything works well when love in abundance is added :)

[@jonas3333]

A million thank-yous for the tip! I'm sold. And if ANYIONE thinks that the human body is any different than what Stefan is talking about, they are sadly mistaken. We need to stop putting things in ourselves to "make us feel better". We're doing it all wrong. Research another Stefan named Lanka.

[@shapiemau2244]

Lanka is a good start. The Holy Bible is better. We should know better!

[@johnlord8337]

The best understanding of soil science and nutrition is igneous rocks. - There are mafics (iron- and manganese-rich) Gabbro, Basalt, and Obsidian rocks - There are felsics (silica-rich) Granite and Rhyolite rocks - In between, there are intermediate mafic-felsics that are a mix of iron and silica rocks - Mafic rocks break down into black (iron) sands - Felsic rocks break down into silica, silt, and clay sands - Organic soil is from organic muds and peat bogs - Depending on the phaneritic (large crystals) or aphanitic (micro crystals) of these igneous rocks, will be those small or large rock crystal particles - Large crystal igneous rocks are mafic Gabbro, intermediate Diorite and Granodiorite, and felsic Granite - Micro crystal igneous rocks are mafic Basalt and Obsidian, intermediate Andesite, Dacite, and Rhyodacite, and felsic Rhyolite. - Mafic rocks are iron-rich and have iron cement holding the crystals together. Iron mafic rocks rust and quickly erodes into black sands. - Intermediate rocks of iron and silica cement erode out the iron first, then decompose the silica crystals. Here one gets iron banding and jasper/chalcedony silica quartz sands. - Felsic rocks of silica cement holding the crystals together. Silica quartz felsic rocks erode into sand grains. Rock dust can be composed from sedimentary, metamorphic, or igneous rocks. The best rock dust contains phosphorus (the oldest rock erosion cycle). Plants need critical phosphorus and its is one of the micro nutrients with the highest of plant nutrition needs. N-P-K (Nitrogen -tree 'UP," Phosphorus - roots "DOWN," and Potassium - tree "ALL AROUND" are the main mineral nutrients, while the micro-nutrients are the most critical. It is known within biochemistry of the body, that one needs critical minerals in the body. Calcium as a base mineral creates 10,000 enzymes in the body. Iron another 10,000 enzymes. Magnesium another 10,000 enzymes. Not getting the proper food, just like a human balanced meal of vitamins, minerals, amino acids, pre- and pro-biotics skews the human metabolism and health. The same applies to plant science, nutrition, and health. Calcium, Magnesium, Iron, Cobalt, Phosphorus, Copper, Sulfur, ... are all needed. Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) provides 2 of these ingredients. Copper sulfate used in many plant sprays for bugs and bacteria also provides 2 needed ingredients. Iodine is also in micro-dilutions also needed for plant health, but providing a clean soil, removing harmful bacteria, nematodes, soil fly larvae etc. Kelp and dulse can provide many nutrient micro sea salts and iodine. Sphagnum moss compost provides iodine. Chaga mushroom tumors on birch trees are an iodine producing fungi. Providing calcium sweetens and alkalizes any acidic ph soil. Sulfur acidifies any alkaline ph soil. Cobalt, copper, etc. are micro ph soil adjustors.

[@johnlord8337]

Knowing your proper soil type, and treatment to get it into a loamy texture, is knowing your clays, silts, sands, and organic mud percentages. Clays hold back water. Sands quickly drain out water. Silts are the most-optimum soil for growing vines and fruit orchards - as shown where the best wines are grown in silt regions. Silts hold a modicum of water with their micro-crystals, but drain out any excess keeping the plant humid and watered, but not in dry and drought sandy soil, or saturated and soggy clay soil. Extreme organic muds make soggy soil of wetlands, estuaries, and river deltas, or the drought cracked mud soils of deserts and flash floods. Amend your soil making it the optimum loamy soil, and you will have healthy soil and healthy plants. If you have proper soil, proper soil nutrition, then you will have marvelous plant health and fruiting production - less invasive and (seemingly) damaging insect infestations. As Stephan mentions, weeds and bugs tell you what is needed for those plants and soil.

[@johnlord8337]

Sedimentary and metamorphic rock types made into rock dust will be constituents of clay stone, silt stone, mudstone. These turn back again into clay stone, siltstone, and mudstone. These turn into slates, that turn into banded schist, that turns into gneiss, ... and finally into the hardest of pegmatite and migmatite Fossil coral beds - OR - high calcium-rich rocks turn into dolomite (dolostone, White Cliffs of Dover), limestone, travertine, and marble Felsic silica quartzite and quartz sands turn into sandstone, that morphs back into quartzite and quartz, ... AND with possible igneous heat and pressures morph into large crystal diorite, granodiorite, and granite rocks The erosion cycle repeats, tearing down these rocks with wind, weather, heating, cooling, and freezing cycles, and water actions.

[@tonycortese2165]

Are you guys sure?

[@johnlord8337]

@@tonycortese2165 Yup !

[@shapiemau2244]

Where did these soils come from? What makes up us, what makes up the vegetation? There is design, a Creator that knows.

[@vickisavage8929]

This is another case of whether the problem is the dis-ease or the environment. The battle of perspectives between Louis Pasteur and Antoine Bechamp continues, and the same contest of perspectives rages between pharmaceutical disease treatments and natural health care. IMO, the Pasteur approach is to maximize profits while the Bechamp approach is to maximize health.

[@shapiemau2244]

There is no contest. Pasteur admitted this himself. Beuchamp and many others should have been the honest approach.

[@tonycortese2165]

Thank you Stefan another brilliant video and well explained. It makes sense the beginning about the rocks grinding. You have a good way of looking at things

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Glad it was helpful!

[@brucedownunda7054]

STUN

[@rjauk8086]

A timely video for me, thanks. We're moving from our usual regular rain through winter and early spring to our usual dry and warm conditions in late spring and throughout summer. The warmer, drier conditions tend to expose troublespots, and since i've got rock dust and compost on hand, I'm going to apply them to these spots first so that they'll assist the resilience of the plants against the heat to come. Then I'll apply to the rest of the garden after.

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Great strategy to try it on the worst plants you have.

[@maureenparran8918]

Thank you very much for this very informative video.

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Glad it was helpful!

[@melindaroth5796]

EXCELLENT INFORMATION ❤😊

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Glad you think so!

[@canelrachon]

Wow! I love your video. Thank you.

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Warrior-In-the-Garden]

Tried azomite on my apple trees one year- best apple year. I wasn't sure if was a coincidence but this makes me think. It is a little cost prohibitive. My soil is pretty soggy at times but have had success by heavily wood mulching the root zone. Seems to absorb the excess water.

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Wood chips and basalt or azomite will help.

[@MrToad-actual]

Thank you, Stefan.

[@mainerockflour3462]

Many old quarries were used as a shooting range or a dumping ground. They can be an unregistered Mckissick dump site.

[@carmiezaya9849]

I am taking notes

[@PatojaandI]

I wish you are doing great and with good health.

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Thank you, you too.

[@kidvision564]

Good advice

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Glad you liked it

[@bariaissa1737]

Thank you

[@AEKkd-y9j]

thank you sir

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Most welcome

[@erschaffenswert]

great one, thank you so much!

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Glad you liked it!

[@amandaliberty08]

Thank you so much

[@Homesteading247]

I agree 💯

[@alexw890]

I was right! Stefan, what do you think of Wollastonite and Azomite?

[@garthwunsch7320]

Wollastonite is high in calcium, silicon and oxygen CaSiO3 and has some micronutrients, but nothing like a good basalt has, Both are mined in Ontario and elsewhere. Azomite is pretty good if you can get it economically from Utah. If you're in Ontario, I have access to Spanish River Carbonatite and market it in northern Ontario. It's being used around the world in extremely succesful trials. Stunning stuff.

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Same idea just a more localized product. Use it if available.

[@Blynn-md4dx]

Good video

[@BNM-b7t]

HalleluYAH!! I'm a do-er of the Word, it's the key to life!! 0:06

[@rossplainold1565]

How about using kelp meal. IT contains all macro and micro nutrients

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Probably THE best non rock dust source of mostly micro nutrients. Would be interesting to see the cost per element compared to other sources.

[@dmitryioffik2039]

Hi Stephen, what about moniliose? The extend of the damage can be whether dependant, but if you have it in the orchard I am in doubt you can get rid of it by just improving general tree health. Sun, air, nutrients even on the ideal level will not be enough to fight with such serious disease. Am I right?

[@StefanSobkowiak]

I am yet to see a disease that tree health will not keep away. As long as you’re not using synthetics that kill soil life.

[@taneesescu]

Also heard non baked and washed seaweed contains 70 micro nutrients along with the big 3. Dilute in water and use as foliar amd soil

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Probably THE best non rock dust source of mostly micro nutrients. Would be interesting to see the cost per element compared to other sources.

[@alexw890]

Micorhizal fungi and rock dust?

[@cpnotill9264]

Ashes? Rock dust? hmmmmmm

[@alexw890]

I was right! I use Wollastonite and Azomite Clay!

[@sybilfarmer]

Where do you buy Basalt? I only found it on Amazon

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Look up basalt rock dust supplier

[@shapiemau2244]

Its expensive. I would suggest adding the litter from your trees/crop back into the soil. Mulch them in.

[@StefanSobkowiak]

It's actually one of the cheapest sources of fertility (by pound of active nutrient). Much cheaper when you get it in bulk (1 ton bag and up).

[@adriangoett914]

Does azomite works as well as Basalt?

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Similar, it's a more localized dust. Not as widespread as basalt.

[@paulanelson2183]

Our land is right below a huge dormant volcanic crater...the soil has been depleted over the years by dairy farming, but most of the trees we have planted they seem to be doing well. Our goal is to turn a grass field into a food forest. I do like the basalt dust idea. We have quarries around. Why not feed the trees with food scraps from that tree? As an example, feed orange trees with the orange scraps or peels or healthy leaves from pruning? Or banana trees feed them with banana peels?

[@shapiemau2244]

I practise this every year. Same with potatoes, mulch the leaves, stems and roots back in. You will have a great crop!

[@BluBeatle]

0:15 Ready and waiting ...BRB bio plz hold

[@taneesescu]

Chernozum soil!

[@sebastiancioek5970]

Also with fungi and bateria;-)

[@zoeyshoots]

Bio char ??

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Would make a great 3 way mix right in the compost pile.

[@seek2find]

I was thinking magnesium or Epsom salts

[@CopperKnight1]

Have to be careful with the 'salts'.

[@thisorthat7626]

@@CopperKnight1 Epsom salt is magnesium sulfate, no sodium in there. It is very beneficial for plants and doesn't "burn" the soil.

[@Taylor_the_birder]

Are you Stefani lanrio dad ???

[@StefanSobkowiak]

No but dad in law.

[@Taylor_the_birder]

no way that’s so cool!. you guys should do a collab

[@StefanSobkowiak]

We do a lot just not usually visible. This winter hopefully.

[@ulfpointner8141]

Yes, use what you have ... buy rock dust, buy bags of compost ... hahaha easy, just so something buying ... and lay down a layer of a couple of inches so you have to buy a lot ...

[@monicali2608]

Make compost,use wood ash, autumn leaves, jadam microorganisms, weed fertiliser in a barrel. All free and effective used together.

[@ulfpointner8141]

@@monicali2608 Yes, that is what I did with a little variation, I first inoculated the wood ash with urine to neutralize it and also used nettle slurry then I covered everything well with hay that´s what I have and it worked quite well till now.

[@happyhobbit8450]

I'm on a gravel pit ... we grow rocks

[@vickisavage8929]

What’s older than dirt? Hard rock.

[@shapiemau2244]

What is hard rock?

[@vickisavage8929]

@ Examples of hard rock include granite, basalt, limestone, and gneiss. These erode into gravel, sand, and clay and are utilized by life forms to make dirt. The musical hard rock does not apply to this.

[@GospelGary]

Glaciers 10,000 years ago...??? Nay. Get you a Bible and READ IT. Six Chapters in and the fairytale of eons of time, glaciers, primordial soup, evolution, et al are all groundswatted into oblivion by GOD'S Holy Writ.

[@StefanSobkowiak]

Yes Gary, a day is as a thousand years in God’s time frame.

[@GospelGary]

You are misapplying, via "plucking out" a verse/verses (Psalm 90:4, 2 Peter 3:8) to "fit"* your unbelief in GOD'S Holy Writ...both Passages refer to a Prophetic System of Millennial "Days" based on the "Seven" System of Leviticus 23 & 25. *and it doesn't; your slight of hand trickery is liken unto a square peg in a round hole, spiritually speaking.

[@StefanSobkowiak]

No slight of hand or trickery intended. I have looked long and hard about creation. I believe there is a reason God did not put much emphasis on the details of HOW he created the creatures in Genesis. It is not central to the person of Jesus and could become a distraction for some. The focus should remain the central character and what He has done for us.