The 3 BIGGEST Slow Speed Motorcycle Riding Mistakes

If you are having trouble controlling your motorcycle at slow speeds you are likely guilty of one or maybe all of these three common rider errors at slow speed.
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[@marinablueGS]

I rode for several years on a permit, just renewed it every year. Finally, the law was changed so you HAD to get a motorcycle license after one year on a permit. My first time, I failed the road test by missing or over shooting too many of the markers. Also, it was a HOT July afternoon and the instructor made it clear she was irritated to be out in the heat. That made me nervous. A contributing factor was I didn't practice on the course beforehand. The second time, I practiced on the course the day before and the really big difference was I used the friction zone on the clutch and the rear brakes to regulate my speed. I aced the course and the instructor (a different one) said it was a pleasure to finally see someone complete the test with no marks against them. I attribute my success in passing to the techniques you are promoting. Thank you Kevin, for making a difference!

[@HiroNguy]

Congratulations! Perfect practice makes perfect.

[@thanosetsitty1896]

Keep practicing those skills and keep em sharp and you’ll be alright.

[@Boobtube.]

was it really hot outside the 2nd time around?

[@Boobtube.]

my opinion, you were failing the first time even before you started. Because the instructor did not want to be there and you were forcing her to be, so you were going to pay for that, by her failing you.

[@thatguy7085]

I never took a road test. Not once. But I have been to several riding classes.

[@Silidons91]

I'm a motor officer, here's some tips from going through motor school: Try NOT using ANY brakes. My motor school was a no-brake school, meaning all test patterns (besides the higher speed ones where you need to come to a stop) need to be done with no brakes at all, clutch and throttle only. This forces you to have really good clutch and throttle control. What I would do is find my friction zone, set my throttle, and only regulate my speed with my clutch. If I needed a little more speed, let out the clutch a little, if I needed to slow down, suck it in a little. I'm talking millimeters. If I felt I needed a little more throttle, do it right as you begin a turn. Try full-lock turns from a stop. If you're making a left turn, keep left leg on the peg. If you're making a right, keep right leg on the peg. Don't want to keep the foot down in which direction you're turning. Do entire circles full-lock, never letting the bars get away from full-lock. This is also using absolutely no brakes. When you turn your head, look above the horizon. Also what seemed to help me, is consciously feel for your elbow to make contact with your side when you're making your turns. Hard to explain via text, but if you're making a left, I would think "head turn, elbow" and it would help me force my elbow to my side, which would make me do a full-lock turn. That's all I can think of for now. I'm sleepy lol.

[@myenasmith8530]

Thanks❤

[@The333]

Great post. Just to add my 2 cents - since I got my Tenere 700 and have begun riding off road, I have found it even more important to be confident with both the friction zone on the clutch (off road we always have 2 fingers on the clutch constantly feathering it to slide the rear wheel or gain traction) and maneuvering at slow speeds - especially standing up on the pegs in soft stuff like sand and mud (talk about dropping your bike fast - sand is more unforgiving than asphalt!) - Having good fundamentals will help you in any type of riding you end up choosing.

[@mikedraper138]

Great video! I find myself doing this in my truck in turns, head and eyes all the time.

[@Dana2o11]

Great comments. I try to catch all of your weekly videos as well as former videos that help me. I'm 64 years young and a returning rider after 9 year hiatus but now with a BMW K1200RS which brought me out of my so called retirement. My former bike was a 1980 interstate Goldwing which believe it or not was an easier bike to ride. Before beginning to ride again, I first took the the MSF which in California is allowed to be used rather than the road test for a license. Admittedly I still had much to learn especially with slow speed skills and turns. Yes I dumped it a few times practicing but fortunately I learn quickly. Thank You Kevin for providing information that I could practice with and become a better ride. After a year a weekly practice, emergency braking, s turns, corning, serpentine and other drills and watching your videos as well as other programs, I now ride to work via a 10 lane highway and even split traffic in slow traffic conditions. My biggest fear was having my wife ride with me and so I will not allow her to rife with me till I master my low speed maneuvers. My continuing plan is to take a course every year to increase my skill level, knowledge in order to help me stay alive. PS.. As a younger, I rode dirt bikes as well owning a Honda Hawk in the 70's and 80's. Cheers buddy!

[@terry_willis]

I failed my MSF riding test taken many years ago. The instructor never mentioned the words friction zone. Did not learn this until years later. That little 125cc bike was jerking all over and I could barely control it. The words teacher or instructor need to be taken with a grain of salt. Thanks Kevin for your continuing instruction.

[@lpd1snipe]

Good stuff as always. I had to take a motorcycle safety course so I could get a Base pass to bring my motorcycle on base when I was still in the Navy in the 1970s. Even though I had been riding many years prior, I was surprised at how much I did not know.

[@7734Kromm]

A very significant method to stabilize your motorcycle at low speed is to clutch low friction, lightly drag the brake but most importantly, add a few thousand rpm with your throttle. The gyroscopic effect from the rotating engine parts keeps you upright and stable at slow speeds.

[@slothmarathonpromotions2470]

Thanks for the tip. Gonna try this at the parking lot tomorrow.

[@basils3283]

New rider here and dropped my Honda Rebel doing a turn. Counter weight balance is also very crucial.

[@garywilson473]

TY Kev

[@MotoTvWoodsFarm]

grab a push peddle bicycle, practice balancing while stationary, as a novice aim for 5 to 10 minutes, then practice a slow tight turn aim to complete the turn in 2 to 3 minutes, you are working on sense balance and fear. doing it on bicycle like this will rapidly improve your motorbike skills

[@Yamobethere]

Totally agree these are the top 3. But I've found that once those three are mastered, you learn that slow speed isn't as slow as you'd think. I see a lot of people struggle because they aren't going fast enough 8-12 mph and/or they want to try to make tight turns with direct steering only. Want tighter turns? You gotta lean that bike over.

[@stephencraig3928]

Concise delivery.

[@4evervigilant8]

Always informative.

[@arthurb8631]

Great video. I point every new rider to your chanell

[@bikedawg]

What do you do with the throttle when you are in the friction zone? Does it stay at the same RPM or do you have to modulate it the same time you are modulating the clutch?

[@hcderksen]

Kevin are you familiar with CMA? Their head office is in Hatfield Arkansas.

[@torandresyltesether7832]

25 years on 2 wheels and the friction zone gave me control slow speed manuvering. Then I got a Honda with the dct, and I had to start all over again. I'm using the back brake to friction but after 25 years with a clutch it feels weird/wrong and not natural.

[@boomingbazooka3785]

TL,DR: At low speed, 1. Friction zone 2. Rear brake 3. Look where you go

[@homegrownson]

Hitting painted lane lines at slow speed with one tire on a painted line can flip back end around and down in a heartbeat, Another is stepping in Oil when stopped at a Light and dropping your Bike, always more embarrassing with someone on the back and a 3rd is turning on a freshly refaced blacktop wi=hich is so slick when first applied that almost anything other then straight up and down that has any lean puts bike on ground

[@cliffandpamdixon3675]

How do you control the bike if it has DCT transmission. No friction zone.

[@UltimateDazzle]

I believe you have a DCT Goldwing like myself , no clutch so that friction zone doesn’t work for the DCT, however I find that the fuelling is so accurate that just raise the revs to 1500-2000rpm and use the rear brake as the speed limiter works, anything you would add to that MCrider?

[@MCrider]

Nope. That is the technique on a DCT. Not as good as a clutch but it works. 👍🏻

[@UltimateDazzle]

@@MCrider I just think it’s different to having a clutch and requires a change in mindset, once you realise & BELIEVE it won’t stall then the confidence grows and actually I find it easier than many manual bikes I’ve owned, my last one a R1200GS L/C was horrible due to fluffy low rev fuelling as was a VFR 800Vtec for similar reason. Im pretty certain the Honda off road school here in the UK reckon that for all but expert riders, the DCT is the better option for their courses. I like your presentations btw, if you weren’t so far away a day of instruction from you would be on my list of to do’s

[@MrBottomrung]

And what about the new DCT bikes?

[@samuelramirez4180]

everyone loves the friction zone.

[@taronyoung5768]

New rider. What do you vets consider slow speeds?

[@jamesbongiovanni5180]

You & Jerry Palladino should do a combination video. Good stuff.

[@gfunk63901]

I stopped watching him between his political leanings and only concentrating on slow speed. Doesn’t talk about gravel or riding safely in traffic or handling curves better. He also makes fun of commentators and those messing up in his class. MCRider focuses on riding. Him and Jitsu is all I watch

[@monteman1971]

I use the friction zone because like you explained… it works! But didn’t we learn with cars that being in the friction zone prematurely wears out the clutch. So isn’t that true on a motorcycle?

[@aeroplod]

You're right. In normal riding ie not doing slow tight manoeuvres all day there's no problem. Continuous parking lot practice does accelerate clutch wear. Friction always causes wear; letting the clutch rest to cool down every few minutes helps; more important with dry clutches. During my on the job training many years ago, the dry clutch on the BMW would smell a lot when getting too hot. So for concentrated practice you're right but, for a method for slow control in daily riding, it's an essential part of the technique.

[@kenwittlief255]

NO its not true on a motorcycle with a wet clutch - the clutch is immersed in the engine oil and you cannot burn it going 3mph with the engine barely reving. you are not wearing it out going slow, the plates have oil between them when its not fully engaged If your motorcycle has a dry clutch.... WHY?!

[@aeroplod]

@@kenwittlief255 All clutches wear. The more they are used the more they wear. During a manoeuvre eg u-turn the wear is unnoticeable but it is still there. During prolonged practice the friction zone the friction is continuous and greater heat is created. Basic logic. Oil also heats up more and becomes less able to cool the plates. The plates don't 'burn' but can and eventually do fail. 3mph?? That is not a speed to u-turn unless you stay upright ... or fall over. Some bikes had dry clutches. Why? Ask BMW.

[@kenwittlief255]

@@aeroplod with proper clutch operation a clutch should lasts for the life of a motorcycle without needing to be replaced highly reliable bikes like Yamaha Vstar cruisers and many honda motorcycles will go 100,000 miles before you need to split the case for repairs or bearings, or need to replace the clutch from the side cover that includes the normal need to ride below "clutch speed", the speed at which the bike moves with the clutch fully engaged and no throttle twist is applied. If you are going faster than clutch speed (3 to 5mph) there is no need to slip the clutch in the friction zone, that includes doing a wide U turn where possible a well designed motorcycle will not wear out its clutch from doing slow speed maneuvers, unless you only ride it around at 2mph slipping the clutch the entire ride

[@aeroplod]

@@kenwittlief255 Sorry Ken, we'll just have to disagree. I'm only going on my professional training and 56 years of using clutches. Have a look at Ride Like a Pro channel. Tight u-turns at no less than 8 to 10 mph, constant friction zone with a few extra revs etc etc. on 900 lbs bikes. Keep safe.

[@waynepage5324]

I'm 71 years old, been riding since I was 14. Never to old to learn. Thanks for the great info. Thanks!😎

[@gerrykingstone984]

I'm 78 and could not agree with you more.

[@wayneberry811]

I am back to riding after a 62 year break [yes I am old] and enjoying every hour. I took my exam on my small 125CC bike with a semi auto clutch but because of your lessons I used the rear brake and had no problem. When my new 500 cc bike gets here I will have the clutch to add to my bag of techniques. Thanks for very informative lessons.

[@billmeyer7903]

I'm 67 and been riding most my life. Just wondering, after a 62 year break, that makes you how old?

[@wayneberry811]

@@billmeyer7903 I have been out of town and just saw you question. I am 85 but in good health and active. I find riding very enjoyable. I am looking for something bigger that will be mote comfortable on the highway than the Super Cub I now have.

[@craigcraig2524]

@@wayneberry811 RoyalEnfield Range...Faster enough for FUN SLOW ENOUGH for my reactions...And they have a soul too..

[@arthurwhiteway3170]

I'm guessing your 125cc was a Super Cub. I've got a 2019 Cub and I'm luvn it! I've also got big bikes, but for local putting, it's a blast!!

[@tommartinez62]

Bought a 790cc Triumph last week after being away from bikes close to 30 years. I am relearning a lot of things. I have been practicing a lot a slow speed, makes perfect sense.

[@magma2551]

Taking the new riders class a few years ago I didn't understand the friction zone because if you did that in a car you'd burn the clutch out in no time. It wasn't until the instructor told me the motorcycle has a "wet clutch" that I realized a bike clutch isn't like a car and that's when it started to click for me.

[@hauntedmoodylady]

True, with the exception of those motorcycles that have dry clutches..

[@thebikehippie6562]

That's exactly what I was thinking. Like, how does this not burn your clutch?

[@zenermaniac2571]

My Moto Guzzi has a dry clutch. No problems.

[@MarkJohnson-il5fy]

I'd add that I see riders stare at a curb, a tree, whatever, keep looking at and they'll hit it everytime. Have the foresight to look away from danger

[@motzoh]

LOL this is so true, I did that ONCE: stared at a cattle trail rut that I wanted to avoid getting stuck in on a dirt bike, and you all know that's exactly what happened, and I went down. All in slo-mo and just in a field, but finally understood where not to look.

[@rainbowbunchie8237]

It feels extremely unnatural to move your sensory organs for balance one way, then your body the other, this makes perfect sense.

[@jimfarnell5813]

I would add, to turn your head to the extreme, lift your chin to clear your shoulder… especially if you wear a full face helmet… I strongly agree with practicing head turns while driving your auto… this greatly assisted me in developing the habit…

[@kenwittlief255]

twist your shoulders with the handle bars

[@jesusacovarrubias1390]

Kevin, what some riders don't understand about the "friction zone" is how to keep a level of acceleration that works with the FZ. They let the motorcycle RPMs die and end up having to put their foot down for stabilization. More emphasis needs to be placed on the accelerator in combination with the FZ, imho. The KZbin channel, Paying it Forward, does a real good job with explaining the technique of acceleration, he calls it, "preloading" and it works. You, Motojitsu, Fortnine, and Paying it Forward, are my go-to resources for motorcycling. Thanks for the great job that you do to help keep us safe. Jesse

[@justanotherviewer52]

Slow speed mastery is essential. Friction zone, head and eyes, feathering the rear brake.

[@knickerbockers2010]

i was doing everything wrong on my new honda nc750x. I used throttle but was wondering that it has too much power at low speeds between the cars and I used front brake. fortunately head and eyes were always in correct position, because it was the same on honda pcx for 50.000 km and this habbit stayed with me for good. In the car the friction zone is absolut no go, because it damages your clutch and then its very expensive to replace, but on bike is different philosophy.

[@whiskeyshots]

Absolutely agree with all of this. Once I figured out how to work the friction zone and drag the rear brake, slow speed maneuvers became easy. Find an empty parking lot and practice. Schools are great for this on weekends and over the summer. They usually don't mind, as long as you're not being a hooligan while you're there.

[@DrTHC]

Also, church parking lots are good during the week. I'm not a churchgoer, but I like to leave a little offering taped to the door as a demonstration of my gratitude. ✌️

[@kenwittlief255]

dragging the rear brake exaggerates the width of the friction zone, because you need the clutch to engage more to overcome the dragging brake for some people it makes it easier to ride slow, but its not necessary you dont need to practice in a parking lot - practice everytime you ride - when there is no one behind you slow down short of a stop then creep the bike up at 1mph the last few car lengths, feet on the pegs, head and eyes up, relaxed or take corners slower than normal (again with no one on your tail) and also practice your panic braking and swerving every time you ride, as long as you have the road to yourself

[@dev77cmd]

Thank you Kevin. I'm going to receive my first motorcycle after getting my license, a 2021 CB500X, this Monday and someone recommended you in a facebook group and from that moment, I'm on a watch spree of all your videos so far, to make sure that I'm well educated before getting out on the roads for real. I'm also a 1000cc member on your website and plan on using the Field Guide at least 2 times per week for practicing!!

[@MCrider]

Awesome, thanks for becoming a Member. If there is even anyway I can help out send me a direct message on the forums.

[@Sega_is_all_i_cd]

I never get tired of hearing these techniques! They’re important to me. Thank You MC!

[@kellymc239]

Hi Everyone. Just Fyi for all: I also learned that keep the speed up just a little during cornering. If you go too slow, the bike will want to fall over. So, keep the head and eyes focused on where you want to go, use the friction zone, drag that rear brake to stabilize the bike, and keep the speed at 5-10 mph. The speed helps keep the bike stable, and you can even adjust your body position to the 'outside' of the bike. This helps even more if the turn is a sharp one. Stay safe everyone! :-)

[@kellygrant4964]

Thankfully when I started my driving life all we had was standard transmissions. I knew how to use a clutch. The only thing was to transfer that clutch "feel" from my foot to my hand. It didn't take long (minutes) to get used to the motorbike. I think the biggest issue now is most people only learn to drive with automatics. I still think everybody must take their driving test on a standard. Or it was that my dad was a hell of a lot better teacher that going to any course. Probably. I did learn from a military man that was capable of driving anything.

[@mitchburk5112]

Unlike automobile clutches, motorcycle clutches are designed to operate in the friction zone without damaging the clutch. If you learned clutch operation on a car and were told "never ride the clutch" you need to quit worrying about damage to a motorcycle clutch when you do that. Most motorcycle clutchs are what is known as wet clutchs and are lubricated by oil from the primary.

[@kenwittlief255]

not just lubricated, totally immersed in the engine oil and kept cool

[@a_lucientes]

The first thing I did when I got back on a bike (after 50 years of not riding) was take it to a large parking lot and do slow figure-eights for hours. The breaking and the clutch were intuitive, probably from my early teen days on a small Honda and then in later years I drove cars with manual transmissions. The thing that gets me a little apprehensive is high speed on an interstate, though I can see that with practice Im getting more and more used to it,, when Im going faster for some reasons I still feel a bit of tension.

[@alripley5335]

I've rode a ton of highway miles and still get that feeling.

[@paulacabbo466]

i get highway paranoia just for the first few miles I've found that bringing the speed up to 75 -80 for a short time makes riding at 65 easier

[@2wheelsr2wheels39]

@@paulacabbo466 If I ever get pulled over for speeding I am definitely going to use that one 🙂

[@mrsimpleesarcastik3494]

heres a big boo boo.......on a long boring road that is straight, do not just stare ahead, scan around everywhere, it will keep the target fixation at bay

[@Buddycoop1]

Other than the clutch, a lot of these same principles are the same as riding a bicycle. Counter steering, rear brake, leaning etc. etc.

[@gatogato3748]

After riding for a while, applying the same practices while driving a car, significantly improved my driving skills.

[@captainblue2344]

Same.

[@knickerbockers2010]

you will ruin the car in friction zone if manual transmission, because its adviceable to take foot off the clutch as soon as possible. I used friction zone than had to replace clutch at 100.00 km and paid 1200 euro for it

[@jvcoulter]

Sorry Kevin but you misspoke while describing friction zone. You said pulling in the clutch lever “engage[s] the clutch” but that action actually DISengages the clutch (disengages the transmission from the engine). Could cause inadvertent confusion. Love the channel!

[@Dodger2879]

All obvious, but rarely practiced. I've been riding for 52 years (legally) and thank you for reaffirming these points, I often am guilty of diluting. If I may suggest one more please; get those feet up on the footrests asap, as a center of gravity at the ankles is far less "wobbly" than between the thighs! Great advice for all levels. Many thanks....I am now subscribed.

[@carvama1]

Nice video. How about discussing the "friction zone" on a DCT bike…

[@MCrider]

There is not a friction zone you have direct control over on a DCT. If you use good throttle control and the rear brake the motorcycle will slip the clutch but you have much more control with a standard motorcycle clutch.

[@WheelsNotHeels]

@@MCrider I have a DCT also. This is excellent advice. I use my rear brake for u-turns and it sure smooths things out! That and just being able to finesse the Throttle control. Thanks for this!!!

[@wadeblake3451]

Apparently having the dct in manual mode while practicing the slow manoeuvres helps as well. I ve ordered the dct and I am looking forward to practicing in the parking lot. I was worried about this exact thing so took a dct on a test ride and headed to the parking lot. With practice, I am hopeful of being just as, or close too, as proficient as I am with a traditional motorcycle. Time will tell.

[@RVMTube]

Look where you want to go is the most surprising and effective thing! It consistently amazes me, how effective it actually is.

[@SMKreitzer1968]

Thanks Kevin, amazing how much better control you have when you drag the rear brake with the clutch in the friction zone. God bless and stay safe.

[@12masterr]

My wife asked me,what are you doing? I said learning about going slow,and the friction zone!, and she said it was time!

[@hni7458]

Ha ha ha mate!

[@michaelvmatthews193]

I would add a 4th tip, hug your knees up against the bike(not a death grip) and have your passenger(or pillion) do the same to steady the bike through a slow turn or especially in any rough or sandy section so contradictory inertial forces are eliminated to the amount possible. This makes it so much easier for me to maneuver when going from the pavement onto a shoulder for example where there may be a berm or “lip” that drops onto pebbles, sand or the dried muddy tracks of the car or truck that was there before me which prevents two bodies swinging in opposing directions. My wife does this automatically coming to a stop and it helps me a lot. I’ve traded my BMW 800gs which had 34” seat height for a Triumph t120 Bonneville with a 31” height so it’s not nearly as hairy as it used to be. I’m not on my tip toes at a stop and can actually flat foot it. Plus at any speed below about 7mph the Beemer needed a lot of control inputs. I can come almost to a complete stop on the Bonneville with really good control.

[@larryritchey8557]

Thanks Kevin. As a former MSF instructor as well, it's important for riders to remember these techniques and practice them often. I use the big parking lot at our local Community College nearby and try to spend 10 minutes practicing every time I ride. Keep the videos coming.

[@kenwittlief255]

all great advice the way you twist your head to the side and back could give the wrong impression you dont just look to the side then look ahead, you turn your head and eyes and KEEP THEM looking where the bike is going to make a U turn you have to twist your head and shoulders and look behind you where the bike is going to end up - because you cannot get halfway thru the turn and realize something is blocking your way, and then try to stop half way thru if you were showing this on your motorcycle it would be more obvious - make sure the cross traffic is clear and then look where you are turning and commit - keeping your head turned all the way thru.... the best way to fall in the middle of a turn is to twist your head the other way to see if anything is coming

[@oldgeezerproductions]

There is one other thing that should be mentioned and that is to be sure to use the ENGINE'S THROTTLE in conjunction with the clutch's "friction zone." Two weeks ago I was practicing slow speed tight turns and was doing very well (if I say so myself) when I failed to keep the engine revved up to at least its idle speed. On my electronically controlled engine (ECU fuel injection), if you drop much below 1000 RPM, the engine simply shuts off (to keep it from lugging). I needed a little more rear wheel power to keep the bike up, so I let out the clutch a bit and went below that 1K RPM. The engine suddenly quit and just as suddenly the bike flopped over. I was going 10+ MPH and was slammed HARD to the pavement; the fall broke my left collarbone and turned my entire left side the most amazing color of dark purple. I have partially healed quite quickly (although it's still painful) and am back riding. I am presently working on coordinating an increase in throttle to an increase of clutch in the friction zone so I can always count on my engine to keep running and hold me up when I need it to. I am trying to never allow the engine to simply idle while using the friction zone. By the way, everybody on KZbin shows a drop while practicing slow speed maneuvers as nothing serious and EVERYBODY simply picks up their bike and continues. Practicing is essential, but it is NOT without its risks and it's best to not do it alone or where help is not available, if at all possible.

[@gordmckenzie5539]

Thanks Kevin, every so often, I like to practice slow speed turns. I can always tell whether someone has taken a riding course by how they make slow turns or stops walking their feet on the ground.

[@JaxTellerRC]

I always see these sorts of videos where the person says to turn your head and eyes and look where you want to go. Problem with this is that it takes your eyes off the road directly in front o f the front wheel. I saw a guy in front of me riding once turning his head and he didn’t see the little flat piece of plastic on the road. As soon as his front tire rolled onto it his front end just slipped out from under him. Better to use your eye and your eyes should be darting everywhere looking for hazards. Always. Animals in the bushes at the side of the road. Suspicious looking branches that might snap and fall, especially if it’s raining and the leaves are heavy. Etc etc. turning your head can be dangerous. Even poking back to check blind spots in traffic and the car in front slams on the brakes. Just always have your eyes darting everywhere and checking mirrors and be aware of your position. Keep a gap next to you wherever possible.

[@Back2TheBike]

As a back to bike rider after a 37 year break I only dropped my R1200RT twice, both at 3mph when practicing slow, tight turns. After 5 years back on board I'm very happy crawling along at 2-3 mph if I need to, but have no problem putting a foot down when turning. I ride to the UK IAM advanced level and have been assessed by 2 police instructors as police standard. My advice? Don't obsess about slow turns, eventually, given a knowledge of clutch, brake and vision it just happens.

[@WindyTherapy]

Since Triumph came back re-energized they really knocked it out the park. It is a brand that doesn’t require a roadside assistance because they simply don’t break down. I bought a brand new 2017 Triumph Trophy SE and since then I only spent money with gas, oil changes and tires plus it has enough power and torque pull my motorcycle pop up camper. Great decision Kevin and good luck. 🍻

[@garycordle5295]

I wasn't like a lot of my friends,they just take the temp test every year 😂 my brother and myself signed up for the MSF class, point 👉 your nose 👃 where you want the bike to be.

[@rodintoulouse3054]

Thank Kevin. Just came back from my slow speed lesson here in France. I really struggled today. Perfect timing. I'll apply this next time.

[@gelfyd1]

Great advice Kevin. Thanks for sharing. I’ve been riding for 51 years and continue to learn and hone my skills. That’s how I stay alive!

[@robray6393]

I’m a newbie and someone please correct me if I’m wrong. I have used the friction zone in 2nd gear. I was in 2nd gear coming to a stop about to down shift into 1st gear, when I noticed the bike starting to chug, I played with the friction zone in 2nd and it smoothed out the bike before I down shifted to 1st. I will say that any low speed riding you can used the friction zone except for higher gears for obvious reasons. Any input from experienced riders if I’m wrong.

[@HDVIBE]

Great tips Kevin...practice, practice, practice at slow speeds will save your bacon.👊👍

[@MCrider]

For sure!

[@joelseph98]

I am a relatively new rider, but am really happy with how much more confident I feel and am able to control my bike using some of this advice. I especially notice then when observing other ridings who appear to be much more experienced than me but do not have the fundamentals down as well as I do (duck walking, rough downshifting, improper front/rear braking, use of the friction zone, etc.). As always, great info! Keep up the good work! You are making a real difference for me and so many others!

[@cheezyridr]

one of the best things you can do is look up jerry palladino's "ride like a pro" here on youtube. with just a few hours of practice, you'll be a better rider than 80% of the other people you see on the street. in my first year of riding, i took 2nd place at a bike rodeo held by a big local group. all was due to the techniques in this video, and palladino's. also, get a book by david hough called "proficient motorcycling". it teaches you how to behave in traffic, and on group rides, for maximum safety. it also teaches proper cornering. if you do these things, you'll be amazed at how fast you get good at it, and it makes riding way more fun because you have better control and more confidence. good luck, and have fun!

[@joelseph98]

@@cheezyridr love that dude! Very cool, thanks for sharing!

[@joelseph98]

@@cheezyridr I am definitely finding it is more enjoyable when the riding/operating part becomes natural and you can focus on your surroundings and the experience.

[@gregoriousgilbert519]

Hay Man.. Cheers for another goood chat.. Its 0930 on Tuesday mourning here in the SouthWEst Uk, Very cloudy an a bit gale force winds, gotta go shopping now on my Fazer600 with a little trip, 14 miles to Glastonbury.... Have been practicing some of ypour techniques, Keeping my head turning every which way, watching for distracted drivers as well as keeping my bike as safe as possible.. Cheers from Greg with-the-Fazer600, featured in MCN couple weeks ago as an affordable "Classic" bike..

[@Cody-zd2ye]

I am falling off a lot lately thought it was my age at 64 I have turned my idle speed up 1400 intruder.ill try your techniques thank you

[@motoryzen]

1:17..I can name one without even watching/listening to the rest. It is the ride pulling in the clutch in a panic if they think the bike is about to fall over...which ironically CONTRIBUTES to that xD

[@cliftonsr]

Coming from riding lighter dirt bikes and tight trail riding since I was 13 years old can give you good skills and bad habits at the same time. But this advice of slow speed riding from Kevin Morris on this channel is by far the best advice I try to use on the road especially helpful riding my 1300cc heavier bike at slower and quicker maneuvering speeds for a smoother execution. I love this channel cause it really gives advice on great riding techniques!

[@AS-qc8iz]

Thanks Kevin for explaining so well the three key things. I heard of the friction zone but didn't understand until now. I will definitely be more conscious and practicing these tips now. Great help. 👍

[@bigal7561]

You're in Ft. Worth. I'm in Coalgate about 60 miles from the Red River on 69/75 South. Not that far from Ft. Worth. I fly out of Dallas (I used to) a lot. Ha. Anyway, I want to join as a membership and would not mind taking a course if you still offer them in the DFW area. I also need to be careful with my cash as Cancer is very greedy...ha again. So, I'm not a new rider but have been off bikes for over 12 years. Even then I'd become a now and then rider. Sold my bikes and all the stuff you collect over the years (stated riding when I was 15 now 67) and man you collet a lot of stuff. Decided to start riding again and wanted to find and rebuild the first new bike I ever owned and that was a 1975 Honda CB 360t. Found one over 6 years ago in Minn and bought it and had it shipped to Oklahoma. Then I got cancer, lost a lung and spent a couple of years in hospital on and off. This was my mission. I'll make this short. I worked every second I had and got it fully restored (looks great would love to send you a pic). Got on and found out you lose a lot of skill levels when you haven't rode in a long time and not riding one this old was a learning curve. Your stuff has been great for me and I suggest this channel to everyone, new or old. Now that you know a bit, do you have a course that will help me in my everyday riding skills with an older bike? Also, I want a pay once membership for yearly so which one is best or do they all have the same stuff? Let me know. I may go ahead and buy the membership one at 60 bucks or so, but I need to know what schools your having before the summer is gone. Thanks buddy

[@Delzona]

WOW! I know about the head turn when riding and of course do it all the time. However, I never thought about or realized that it wasn't natural as we walk! I'm certainly going to practice this more when I'm not on my bike along with making my head turns more deliberate. I'm guilty of the lazy head turns! Great video Kevin!!

[@jimrogers6138]

Does using the clutch this way cause any premature damage to the clutch? My older bikes with clutch cables weren't always "smooth" and this would be tricky. It works better with my hydraulic clutch on my Suzuki.

[@mrfiskars]

I also took the msf course, it's like you said friction Zone, break head turn. After leaving the course , practice practice practice. However I found myself not doing as well as I could. After watching your video the light bulb went off in my head 💡 💡 💡 💡 💡 💡 💡 💡 💡 💡 💡 💡 💡 💡 💡 💡 💡 LAZY HEAD TURN!!!! That's me Thank you for the quick video and the excellent tips

[@UncleWally3]

Great advice but do the “new” transmissions and gear boxes (DCT, electronic and quick shifters) require a few more words of wisdom?

[@lonerider6175]

Great advice. Been doing it without realising it. This video really make it clear. For me I was using a combination of front and rear brake . Thanks.

[@MotoTvWoodsFarm]

most novices try to mask their true ability by practicing on doing the exam course beforehand. If you need to do that you are fooling no one and when you pass you are below the standard you need to be at to use the public highway

[@toothl3ss91]

Head and eyes up, looking where you want to motorcycle to be is critical. The same applies to automobiles. Too many people drive their cars looking at the hood ornament! You can easily spot them because they weave back and forth in the lane...especially on on/off ramps....lol.

[@bhaggen]

Whilst teaching my wife basics years ago, she forgot the first thing I told her, "It's like riding a bicycle" When she got to the end of the driveway she remembered the brake & clutch, but forgot to put her foot down and tipped the bike over, breaking the mirror and clutch lever. It was like that clip on Laugh-in. The "friction zone" seemed very natural to me after driving/repairing multi-carbureted Porsches in the 70s; they'd stall under 1000 rpm

[@motzoh]

Looking before you turn in the car or on a moto is fundamental also to clearing the intersection before entering it and potentially avoiding a t-bone collision. Critical when driving an ambulance.

[@pseudotonal]

2 1/2 years ago I gave my bike away and moved to the Philippines. I recently bought a manual shift motorcycle here. On my first ride I dumped it while turning into the alley leading to my house because as I turned there was a car right there coming out. There is no line of sight into the alley due to the houses being flush with the road and alley. I stopped while still leaning and my bum leg wouldn't come off the foot peg to prevent me from falling over. I don't think it would have been possible to straighten up before stopping since the alley is only as wide as a truck, with big rocks and plants on both sides. Now when I pull into the alley, I stop beforehand and look up the alley first. Here in the Philippines, most intersections have this problem. My alley is a very bad road with a big lump of concrete at the road end and at my driveway and large stones and mud for the rest of it.

[@arthurb8631]

Dropping into a busted up roadway (shallow pothole) well that’s using the front brake…..I figured that one out a long time ago🤬 doing a perfect rear brake assisted friction zone u turn and oops

[@JackTRyan]

I’ve never understood the physics of why dragging the rear brake helps with slow turns. Of course any brake slows the bike, and using the front can cause fork compression and momentum downwards. So is it that simple: Use the back simply to slow down? And not use the front for that same purpose b/c of it’s risks? Maybe another way of asking the question is, Why not just go into the turn at a slow speed (using clutch friction zone)? I do that and don’t seem to have any problems. In fact sometimes thinking about dragging the rear brake seems more of a complicating factor than helpful.

[@albertdavis8036]

The rear brake makes your bike want to "stand up" since it won't dive forward like when you use the front brake, it makes control easier when going under 10mph

[@kenwittlief255]

when you are in the friction zone the amount of pressure you put on the lever determines the speed of the bike the speed of the engine does NOT, as long as you dont let it stall try it - get on your bike going straight, slip the clutch just a little with the engine reving at 1000 rpm so the bike is going about 2mph then rev the engine up to 2 or 3k rpm while holding the clutch pressure steady - the bike will NOT speed up riding the rear brake adds more drag, which requires you to slip the clutch a little harder to go the same speed. it has the effect of making the friction zone wider, or less touchy if you like you dont have to drag the rear brake to go slow, if you can get enough response from the clutch lever

[@halan236]

I've been driving for decades and I still do "ride the clutch" be it in the car or the motorcycle based on the situation. I attempt to keep it to a minimum, as it was/is a bad thing to be doing. Now cars and bikes have automated it with Automatic Transmissions (AT), Hill Start Assist, Duel Clutch Technology (DCT), Low RPM Assist, Quick Shifter, etc. However you managing it, there are moving parts and you'll increase wear on certain components when your someplace in between the clutch being out or fully engaged. Thank you for your videos Kevin.

[@chrisstokley7687]

58 yr.. 1st day in the rain to work .. 125s ... truck turned in my lane and i stopped from 50mph to 20 mph in 30 yrds.. and thank god he finally pressed the gas and seen me! wooooh slick new pavement! the front almost slipped but i was spot on from the practices.. after i just waved and smiled.. glad i was ok ..! grasshopper never to old to learn.

[@tomservo3401]

Before i got my license i watched all these videos on youtube on slow speed maneuvering made me even more intimidated. Passed my test with flying colors just using instinct. Its Only a 1200cc 550 pound bike so not a huge but since i got the bike feels like i had ridden before/ ridden it for years. Not much experience motorcycle riding at all but rode a bicycle for years while struggling to save for the motorcycle. Maybe that had something to do with it?

[@hambone7777777]

I think there is caution about slipping the clutch, re: wear and replacement, right? But slow speed slipping with (light) throttle/clutch slippage is utilizing the mechs, for the effective operation of the bike in those slow speed maneuvers. And the wear should be minimal, as those turns are fewer; compared to rowing up and down the gearbox constantly, under more power...And the head turn and vision tracking (eyes), is what we do in mountain biking, or off-road riding. Looking where you want to go, instead of focus on obstacles/problems. Good stuff

[@yellowcake2478]

On my ZX-10R(Marry Jane) full face helmet head turns is easy but on my Road King (Big Shirley) half helmet I had to practice alot to get comfortable but it makes a huge difference

[@bigj200016]

Before watching, let’s see if my guesses are right 1 poor clutch control 2 poor body positioning 3 not enough rear brake usage/ too much front brake usage.

[@barriereid9244]

My R100RT was a breeze to ride at slow speed...the sort of motorcycle that drove itself. I spent two years on a trials bike age 15-17 before I went on the road. I have seen UK motorcycle cops having trouble and had their feet down!!!

[@owenscustoms]

Threw my bike down doing a U-turn yesterday. After 10 months of customizing it. 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@skmalladi]

4:50 1. Not using friction zone. 2. Using the wrong (front) brake. 3. Improper use of head and eyes.

[@Solipsismic]

Great info . Thank you. How does the friction zone work with a dry clutch like on my old BMW? In traffic, if I’m not careful, the clutch becomes overheated.

[@bradsanders6954]

The most dangerous thing about motorcycles,is the people riding them.........learning to ride takes time and is just a hassle for some............if you hold your mouth just right maybe you can survive with out any learned skill set.

[@harmon20yt]

I'm starting to get back on a bike after decades of being away. A bike was my daily driver as a kid, traded it in on a car, haven't ridden since. I've heard this "friction zone" talk many times now and I think the reason n00bs don't use it is because we were trained on manuals in cars and warned to not do this because it drastically shortens the clutch lifespan. Is this different with motorcycles, or is it also true with them and short clutch lifespans are just the cost of doing business on a bike?

[@allwinds3786]

Good advice I never realized that I was doing. But I'm 63 and never stopped riding bicycles.

[@johndoe4691]

The clutch on my HD is touchy in between engaged and disengaged from a stopped position especially if you're stopped going straight into a turn. Idk why but particularly left turns...

[@Defmusicman1]

Your videos are very informative and I enjoy them. I use the captions or subtitles when I watch them and the word “rider” often comes up as “writer”. I don’t know who does the captions for your videos but if you could bring that up with them, it would be good. Thanks and keep making those videos!

[@macburt3050]

I have been riding for years, but this year I want to fine-tune my slow speed turns. I have a problem of course. My head turns - but in the turn, my arm is fighting the turn and pushing the bars in the oppositive directions in a choppy fashion. So say I'm left-turning my right arm is extended fully and starts to pull the bar back towards my body in a slightly jerky motion. What do you suggest? It's almost like my brain and arms don't want to travel in the same direction.

[@PatNetherlander]

I think this is the most useful safety instructional motor riding video for slow riding for beginners I’ve ever seen on yt. Keep it Stupid Simple. Thnx!

[@wargamer-ue3lk]

I have a 1978 Honda express with no clutch handle. Plus, it's my daily back and forth to work. So any tips on low speed turning. also, I have a fear of leaning the moped to far in one of the corners I take and go to wide and almost losing traction. 30 mph is my top speed and the roads I mainly ride are 25 mph and lower.

[@chriskwakernaat2328]

Here we have a full exam, special things like figure 8, evasion etc and a road exam , and a theory exam. (NOT easy) we learn everything you talked about here, and more.