The 5 Best Blade Steels for Traditional Pocket Knives

[@paddyspotatopeelers2154]

I would add a few more to yours.440c,14c28n,vg10.,154cm, probably more for those who want just a little more edge retention. But learning to sharpen for me negates the worry about any steel.great video to get a conversation going.thank you.atb paddy.👍☘️

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Thanks for the tips! Appreciate you watching Paddy 🙏🏼

[@jamesaritchie1]

440C yes. Those other steels, no. Those are just people wanting to sell new knives to the gullible.

[@acid6urns]

@@jamesaritchie1154cm and vg10 are awesome steels and fit in perfectly for slipjoints

[@RandysWSG]

Excellent video and info Matt. I am liking D2 a lot. I like VG-10 too. We'll see if that changes after I carry it for a month though. Thanks for sharing!!

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Fingers crossed D2 comes out in top 😂 vg10 is excellent though

[@mikecurtis2585]

Those are some great ones! I'm a 1095 guy!All of those will get the job done!!!

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Thanks Mike , 🫡

[@singingtoad]

Very cool presentation on your favorite blade steels for traditional knives. D2 is great, that would also probably be my top pick as well. Thanks for sharing and Cheers!

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Right on thanks for watching Toad 🐸

[@UncommonEDC]

Very helpful list for a traditional newbie like myself. Thanks for sharing! Cheers! 🍻

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Glad it was helpful!

[@SeanT_1967]

Another great video 👍🏻 Love D2 and have had great experience with it. I’ve always been a fan of Carbon steel, love the organic nature of how it reacts to what you do with it. I’ve been impressed with the capabilities of 440A, and have no concerns about it on a edc carry. Thanks for sharing Slippy, stay well 😎👍🏻

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Thanks 👍

[@jamesaritchie1]

440A can be useful on very cheap knives, but that's all it's good for. It really is bottom of the barrel steel in every way. But it's very easy tomake, and very, very cheap, so it's the best choice for very cheap knives. I wouldn't rely on it in a survival situation, though. It just isn't good enough.

[@byronkennedy7912]

Nice list for traditional knives. Thanks for the share, Slippy.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Thanks for watching!

[@bigjsknives]

D2 is great!! For me i would go 1095, D2, then 420HC. All are wonderful but i lover the Tiners on that 1095!! Thanks for sharing!!

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Thanks for watching!

[@jeroenvoss6231]

I very much agree with your choices Matt. I really love that carbon steel on most knives, specially the traditional ones.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

You and me both!

[@BaxtersBlades]

D2 is the way! Rosecraft is on it!!! I love the carbon from case and Roper and the stainless from buck case and RR. They are all great! Great video mate.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Couldn't agree more!

[@jamesaritchie1]

D2 is a terrible choice. Though as I said above, Chinese D2 is reasonable because it isn't D2 at all by western standards. Case uses 1095 CV which is the best carbon steel on the planet for work knives, for those who actually use knives in a serious way.

[@BaxtersBlades]

@@jamesaritchie1 It seems to work just fine for me. Also like carbon and stainless!

[@Robert_Thomas832]

Opinel carbone is good, easily sharpened- just treat it with some care. Enjoyable line up and appraisal 👌

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Right on

[@BradW.]

Great picks! I think you have all the right steels in the list even if some of us might change the order around a little. When I think of traditional slipjoints I lean heavily to the carbon steel options as a first pick myself. I do like D2 also though.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Thanks Brad 🫡

[@ringaleavo]

Carbon Steel is easy to sharpen and gets razor sharp, I'm a fan.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Yessir

[@fibitabit8423]

I don't think i have a d2 knife in my tiny collection but my böker gentleman is made out of n690. Maybe about the same? Nice vid. Thanks for sharing.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

I'd say it's pretty similar to D2 maybe D2 holds an edge a little longer 🫡

[@mcsquirgle]

While I don't totally agree with D2 being number 1 on your list of favorite traditional knife steels, I do kinda get it. D2 holds an edge like crazy once you manage to get it sharp, and most people in the know consider it a "semi-stainless" because it almost has enough chromium in it to be considered stainless. Those sorts of characteristics are useful in a pocket knife, even if I tend to prefer toughness and sharpenability in a traditional knife steel primarily

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Thanks for watching Brother, appreciate it

[@LastChanceKnives]

Good choices! I am also of the opinion that D2 just may be the best choice. It keeps prices down and holds an edge comparable to many of the higher priced stainless knives. Give O1 some pocket time, it is quite a bit better than 1095 and still takes on a patina, which is another fun aspect of traditionals.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Right on, it'll get some time for sure 🙏🏼

[@garylyman4922]

Great selection of steels. I couldn’t agree more about carbon steel. I have several with carbon steel and D2.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Thanks 👍

[@donc5220]

1095 and 01 are my fav steels all around... unless im doing a 10million$ building and Foaming the whole thing ID bring some a90v or rex45 but 1095 and 01 are my most used Daily.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Excellent stuff brother

[@zednotzee7]

I'd agree that Carbon Steel is the best choice for most people. But I live in a seaside town and the air tends to be rather moist and has a high salt content. So I go for stainless every time for my pocket knives. I did have a D2 knife once. But despite frequent cleaning and oiling it still rusted like a bastard.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

AHH yeah that salt air is a killer! I'm pretty close to the sea but have been very lucky with my carbon steels 🙏🏼

[@John-wo5bp]

Slippy I'm not knowing one steel from another all I care is it sharpen well holds edge I discovered 440 steel is exellent and carbon steel and chrome vanadium I don't go any lower than 440 as for buck using 420 I'm not a fan of them 👍🐾🦊🇮🇹🍻

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Thanks for watching John, appreciate the support

[@John-wo5bp]

@@SlipjointSawyer np keep up great content

[@chaddamron3877]

Big fan of thr RR t10 --- all great choices man 👍👊💥

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Same here!

[@bishop6426]

Hi SS: As you were going up your list I was betting you were going to put D2 at the top. I couldn’t agree more. It’s the best of all worlds. 👍👍

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Thanks for sharing! D2 is excellent and perfect for me

[@jamesaritchie1]

It's the worst of all worlds in every way, at least for those who actually use knives in a serious way. Chinese D2 isn't even D2 at all by western standards. It much closer to 440C than anything, only with more carbon.

[@bishop6426]

Your condescension is showing.

[@pauljosephbuggle3722]

I really like O1 steel. I reckon it will move up the list fast. How come you have an Ashley Harrison knife, I can never find on for sale.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

You have to be checking his Instagram page daily or try and get in his books 💪🏼

[@pauljosephbuggle3722]

I wrote to him 10 months ago and he never even read it.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

@@pauljosephbuggle3722 give him another message, could of just missed it

[@pauljosephbuggle3722]

That's a fair possibility. I've nothing against the guy at all. I just assumed he's up to his neck in orders, not surprisingly given his quality and price.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

@@pauljosephbuggle3722 quite possibly, I know he's knocking out huge batches of Arthur Wright knives at the moment

[@jamesomalley4556]

D2 and O1 are my fav's.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Thanks for watching brother 🙏🏼

[@Beowulf_98]

Prefer O1 and 1095, D2 is ok it's been around for ages. 440c is great. I don't like it when companies put modern steels on them thats when they stop being traditional. Nice Ashley Harrison by the way i have two with one more planned for the year.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Thanks for watching 🫡🙏🏼

[@TonberryV]

CPM-154 is amazing in traditional slip joint knives if you can stomach spending enough to get one. Otherwise, I find 12c27, 1.4116, O-1 and whatever carbon steel Opinel uses (XC90 or something like that) to be more than adequate for my daily use.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

A great choice for sure! And I agree those steels are plenty for my daily needs too!

[@TonberryV]

@@SlipjointSawyer Have you seen Boker's new 2.0 traditional line? I believe they're actually made in Solingen, and they are all D2 base steel. Don't know if there's any sow-belly patterns, but they look great.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

@@TonberryV I'll check them out

[@jamesaritchie1]

I ouldn'tput any of those on a traditional folder. Not one that is going to be used in a serious way. They are all excellent steels, but this does not make them good knife steels. They simply aren't. What they're best at is getting the gullible to buy new knives.

[@TonberryV]

@@jamesaritchie1 Okay. What steel would you use then?

[@Sanctified_Leather]

I agree there’s nothing wrong with D2 Steel, I think it’s a great choice.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

I love D2

[@jelkel25]

I like a bit of Sandvik for the stainless, D2 and love a bit of Carbon steel for the whittling and wood carving but to be honest if the maker has put in the effort with the steel I'm happy with a nice bit of 420, 440, whatever. I know you like a working knife and a bit of Carbon steel. Got a Whitby Sodbuster with a coated Carbon blade for £6.99 from Cyclair. Fantastic working knife, the coating is fairly well done and after a rudimentary sharpen it's like a razor blade, the little baskets bit me twice in a week deeply. A nice little bargain too, not many of these in the UK.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Thanks for watching 🙏🏼

[@jeffjackson5331]

Very nice

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Thanks

[@jeffjackson5331]

@@SlipjointSawyer you're welcome

[@NorthStarKnifeReviews]

Nice choices. Personally, I’m partial to 12C27 and 14C28N. More common on European than American traditionals.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Both great steels, thanks for watching cuddles 🥰

[@jamesaritchie1]

And very, very bad choices for a working pocketknife.

[@NorthStarKnifeReviews]

@@jamesaritchie1 I disagree.

[@tomt5745]

01 for carbon, and Sandvik 14C28N for stainless is my vote :)

[@SlipjointSawyer]

thanks for watching :)

[@jamesaritchie1]

1095 CV is better knife steel than )1. Not by a lot, but by some. regular 1095 also has advantages. Sandvik 14C28N is not a great stainless steel. It is cheap, very cheap, to make, so it's used pretty often, but the edge is brittle and prone to micro chipping, or even larger chipping, if used hard. But it will usually get the job done.

[@jamesaritchie1]

440A is better than most on KZbin think. It's the most commonly used steel in the world, and even the U.S. Military uses forty tons of it every year. It gets the job done, but it really is bottom of the barrel steel. That 01 Tool Steel is an excellent knife steel, far, far better than 440A. 440A really should be in the tope five of any list. It's very easy to make, and it's very, very cheap, or it wouldn't be used at all. What many don't seem to know is that nearly all stainless steel actually has a higher carbon content than actual carbon steel. Carbon steel isn't called carbon steel because of how much carbon is in it, but because carbon is basically the only added component. 1095CV adds Chromium and vanadium, of course, but this is still nothing like stainless steel. 420HC isn't even a blade steel, it's a spring steel, and for that it is excellent. But Buck was wanting to go cheap and developed a heat treatment and tempering process to help the steel take and hold an edge. This works fairly well on the American made knives, but not well at all on the Chinese made Buck knives. 420HC really is just an average steel, regardless of heat treat and tempering. Buck's original stainless steel, 440C was the super steel of it's time, and was infinitely better than any of these stainless steel. But it got so expensive that companies couldn't afford to use it, and now it's pretty rare. There is a Chinese version, but it's really closer to 440B than 440C, so most companies have renamed it. It's still pretty good. The Buck 110 is still made in America so the 420HC is a little better, but not much. You can get the 110 in high carbon steel, or in s30V, which is ten times better than 420HC. Holding an edge for a long time can be very bad. Super hard steels, and steels with extreme abrasion resistance, the new crucible steels, are really pretty stupid on most knives Using them is just a way to sell mores knives to the gullible and make more money. There is no better carbon steel than 1095 except for 1095 CV. The next best carbon steel for knives is 1080. Unfortunately, despite the claims, China doesn't make real 1095 or 1080 steel, and certainly nothing like 1095CV. China names steel whatever rit wants to, and what it calls 1095 has none of the properties real western 1095 steel has. Only a couple of standard knife makers use 1095CV, CaseXX and Ka-Bar, though others have moved into the field. The reason CaseXX calls its steel "tru-Sharp, and marks the blades CV, is because they essentially stole, er, I mean borrowed, the formula for their steel from Ka-Bar but don't want their steels marked the same. So Case is Tru-Sharp CV, and Ka-Bar is 1095 CV. Same steel, different names. That old timer uses 1080 carbon steel. It's a good steel, it really is, but it's softer and has much less abrasion resistance that 1095, let alone 1095 CV. 1080 may be the easiest steel there is to sharpen, but it comes at the cost of not holding an edge very long. Many love this about the steel, but it's one of the main reasons that Old Timers were always considered second tier knives. They were often called the "poor man's CaseXX". Quite honestly, western D2 is one of the worst possible steels any knife can use. It's way too hard, the abrasion resistance is far too high, the edge really doesn't look clean under a scope. It really is a terrible, terrible choice. Chinese mad D@ is better because it actually isn't D@ at all. It's just a poor attempt by China to make something similar. They didn't come cloe. Chinese D@ is almost identical to western 440C, only with too much abrasion resistance. Really, if you actually use a knife for more than cutting string and opening boxes, the LAST steel that should be used is D2. Nothing is as exaspertaing as doing real knife work with D2. Or any of the crucible steels, for that matter. Anyway, traditional knives need traditional steel, and this ALWAYS mean 1095, or even better, 1095 CV. It's an infinitely better steel for knives than D2 or any of these other steels. Only 440C even comes close. That 01 tool steel is far, far better than D2. It has all the good quaities of D2, and none of the bad.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Wow thanks for the great information brother 🫡 really appreciate it

[@MikeyNewman1974]

Slippy I couldn't agree more! D2 is one of favourite edc steels, holds an edge for ages. And 1095 is just so easy to maintain and easy to get razor sharp!

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Thank you Sir 🙏🏼

[@jamesaritchie1]

Yes, D2 holds an edge for ages. That's what's wrong with it. Sharpening D2 is very tough at home, and impossible in the great outdoors.

[@radar468]

👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@SlipjointSawyer]

💪🏼

[@anthonyrollins9825]

your slipping on T10 , it can be heat treated all the way up to 67 HRC ... RR treats thiers at 60 hrc from my understanding.

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Imagine it at 67 HRC 👀🔥🔥

[@jamesaritchie1]

No, it really can't, and even if it could that would be really, really, really dumb. Harder is not better for knife steel. It just isn't. Neither is abrasion resistance that is too high. And, no, RR does not treat their anywhere near 60HRC. Knives than go past about 55 HRC are too hard, and will have too much abrasion resistance. Regardless of the steel, you will need to sharpen it at some point, and it's very tough getting a good edge on 55HRC at home. Out at work, out in the wild, it's impossible. Super hard steels aren't good knife steels, they're just a way for various knife makers to make more money from the gullible. Good knife steel will hold an edge for a reasonable time, and will then be easy and fast to sharpen. D2 and nearly all the new crucible steels, just about any tool steel, simply do not meet this criteria. \ Honestly, if you have a knife with 1095 CV, such as Case, and a knife with 440C, or 420HC that has received proper heat treatment and tempering, you will never need another steel. There nothing to gain by getting knives with super hard steel and super abrasion resistance, other than long term headaches.

[@MrPsiman]

No super steels ? You crazy !!!

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Simple man simple steels 🙏🏼

[@jamesaritchie1]

Super steels are not super, and have absolutely no business on a knife that is really going to be used. Nothing about super steels is super for knives. For tools, yes, super steels are wonderful, but all of them are just headaches waiting to happen on a knife.

[@MrPsiman]

@@jamesaritchie1 edge retention is great on super steels

[@mustamuri]

✨Sandvik stainless✨ 👶👏🥇

[@SlipjointSawyer]

Good choice

[@BaxtersBlades]

It is a great choice. But i don't see them on traditionals as much. Petrified fish has 1