The AIRBRUSH DETAIL KILLER - How to Check for and Remove Partial Nozzle Clogs

Is your airbrush not spraying as well as it used to? Sometimes there is a small clog of dried paint that is only partially blocking the nozzle. Within this video I'll show you how to find out if your airbrush has this common problem and and how to fix it. It's not a big deal and happens from time to time, usually from dried paint from a paint bottle cap getting into the airbrush. Not keeping your airbrush clean cause cause this issue as well. Hope this video is helpful.
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[@martinfinster9899]

The BEST video on this subject. Shot and edited beautifully. The closeups and nice shot of the gunk coming out was so satisfying! Your channel is still the Gold Standard for me. Your review on detail airbrushes finalized my decision and settled my mind down on what to get for my model building. And I might even try an illustration or two.

[@theartworkshop]

I really appreciate that. Thanks so much!

[@ShuroiKami]

This fixed an issue I was having for hours today, I didn't even know the nozzle could be removed. Thank you so much!

[@MrHrannsi]

Excellent point about the dried paint on the bottle cap, we use our airbrushes for every painting session so we almost religiously keep them clean. And we forget that we don't use every colour everytime, just grab the bottle, pour the paint into our shiny carefully cleaned airbrushes that we know works perfectly. Just to find out the not so carefully cleaned paint pot cap sneaked in some dried flakes to make our lovely paint session a bloody misery.

[@amplogik]

Awesome info for those that don't know. I'd maybe add some description that this should really only be done by advanced users and to go gentle, and ONLY when there's no other option. 90% of the brushes that come into me for repair are due to people overly aggressively cleaning, and in those, it's mostly nozzles cracked due to overtightening OR they used something OTHER than a proper airbrush needle (like those gold half needle twisty things sold by amazon), and have trumpeted the nozzle. Every time you introduce wear and tear on the nozzle, you risk wear and tear on the threads, and that causes leaking and bubbling back up into the cup, and erratic spray. Finger tight only! Keep your airbrushes off my workbench! Don't take the nozzle off if there is ANY way to avoid it. :)

[@stevejohnson-lk7wt]

I know not many will agree but I've been doing this for years, a quick shot of aerosol brake cleaner from any automotive store instantly dissolves acrylic paint in seconds. Follow with a water flush and your good to go.

[@pappytinkers]

I felt that i was getting too many of those dried paint clumps from the bottle so i made a reusable paint strainer that fits over the cup when i pour the paint in. I'm always surprised at how much it catches, even from a new bottle of paint

[@rbadilloart8496]

I love your videos and I learned a lot with your tutorials. Your voice is so calming and to the point which helps so thank you!.

[@theartworkshop]

thank you- I'm glad to hear that!

[@landwand]

Great tutorial and use of the macro lens.

[@mannylozano8146]

I Always look forward to your videos. great tip. I found a tip online that helps to strain paint right out of the bottle. Amazon sells these 1/2 inch metal dome screens that fit perfectly between the cap and the bottle. Tried sharing the link but I dont think youtube allows it in the comments. Shouldnt be hard to find. They look like faucet strainers. The catch is they must be kept clean too. I hope this tip is helpfull, Love your content.

[@theartworkshop]

I had one of those before- very useful! It doesn't happen if I remember to clean the paint caps, but I'm lazy and always forget to do it. Great suggestion, thanks!

[@ShorrockPaul]

Nice video! i just use spray can carburettor cleaner , the little straw that comes with the can is ideal to blow the cleaner at high pressure through the nozzle, two squirts and it is shiny clean. it is basically acetone , methanol and toluene, clears it right out without any risk of damage to nozzle. First i put the pointy end of nozzle in straw and blast it in reverse to clear out any big lumps etc then i blast from other direction and i can see the nice spray pattern of cleaner come out front of nozzle...job done! in a pinch , if in a hurry, can even draw needle back with trigger and put straw down the hole in cup and blow out the nozzle without removing it !

[@markwakeley3835]

A great trick I use for acrylic paints is to flush it with a small amount of very hot water.

[@petermot645]

Great video, well done !

[@x13roger80]

Well explained for beginners

[@jc2200]

Awesome tips! Thanks!!🫡

[@theartworkshop]

🫡

[@duanemarshall9486]

Nailed it !

[@theartworkshop]

Thanks Duane!

[@OnlyC4MUSiC]

First ! Love your videos!

[@serelcendel]

i recently seem to have this problem a lot. nearly every time i paint after five minutes or so i have the issues you explained. i deep cleaned my airbrush(es) very thoroughly but still have that problem after 5-10 minutes. do you have an idea on what could cause this? very nice video btw.

[@ELPADREAIRBRUSH]

Awesome video !! And especially if you use CRETEX OPAQUE WHITE ! That paint is a headache in a bottle it’s very temperamental! And clogs very easily!! Thanks for the tips I never knew that ! YOU ROCK 🤘🏻🤘🏻

[@theartworkshop]

white paint is always a pain! it's most difficult paint to spray well.

[@bebopkirby]

Why when they have easy to take apart floating head nozzles, that work perfectly well, do they still make these little wicked, time consuming screw in nozzles.

[@ELPADREAIRBRUSH]

@@bebopkirby to get more money ! I bought an Iwata eclipse for $149 with the floating nozzle easy to replace so I bought another Iwata high line hp ch with the Mac valve and it has a screw in nozzle don’t get me wrong the performance is second to none but the nozzle alone is $40 and the Iwata 0.3 needle is $29 so I only use it for fine detail work you’d think the $300 Iwata high line would have the floating nozzle as well but no such luck ! So if you can afford it I’d recommend the high line with the Mac valve but NOT FOR big jobs like canvas coverage !

[@davewilkinson5315]

I personaly prefer to use a sliver of a toothpick. I put a slight crack in my nozzle the one and only time I used the needle to try and clean the nozzle. I thought I was being very gentle but... Anyway....just a suggestion.

[@theartworkshop]

I never tried that but sounds like a great idea. I'll have to test that out one day- thank you!

[@duanemarshall9486]

I keep a sharpened bamboo skewer in my kit just for this purpose. I set the end of the skewer in the cleaner same time as the nozzle. the skewer lasts a long time and is very gentle on the nozzle.

[@yourgoodliness]

Good advice all around. Do you recommend using those dedicated nozzle reamer tools (the kind that come with spray pots) to wipe out partial nozzle clogs? I'd rather not risk bending even a spare needle.

[@theartworkshop]

thanks- nothing wrong with using one of those as long as you are very careful with it not to damage the nozzle

[@magcolor]

👍👍👍👍👍

[@cybelisk1526]

Off topic but maybe you can help? Every time I use my Eclipse HP-CS the back lever on the chucking guide gets cocked sideways somehow and the needle gets forced into the nozzle so hard that I have to take them both out of the gun and separate them with a LOT of force. Not sure exactly how to recreate the problem but sure enough it happens almost every session. I always set the spring to max tension. Anyway.. considering your experience with the Eclipse I though maybe it’s happened to you and maybe you’ll know how to remedy it. Great channel! Thanks in advance!

[@theartworkshop]

that sounds like it's installed incorrectly, like angled in the wrong direction or something. I would unscrew the rear assembly and check to make sure that lever moves easily. Then reinstall it (tilt it forward before installing and make sure it rests flush against the trigger) and try to loosen it up a bit. Maybe a few turns back from all the way. See if that helps.

[@aerobrash]

Ещё есть такое мнение что куда бы человек руки не засунул, будут проблемы. Может в этом случае имеет место тюнинг который и приводит к таким осложнениям. Лично у меня две iwata и две эволюции , иглы ровные .

[@refwefefwff]

Why not use a nozzle ream which is designed for this?

[@theartworkshop]

For sure, I own a bunch of those! You need to be super careful with them as they tend to be pretty aggressive, especially the the H&S one. I found an old needle to be much more gentle and forgiving.

[@davidfahl9106]

I have a H&S ultra the nozzle is clogged with a clear coat. I can’t soak it because the nozzle has a seal. Any suggestions?

[@theartworkshop]

that seal comes off. just need to grip it with something and it pulls right off. Plus it's PTFE (teflon) so its solvent proof anyway.

[@davidfahl9106]

@@theartworkshop thank you

[@doofwop]

Nozzle clogs are the type of thing that ultrasonic cleaners are meant for. Remember, there are no hand-done braze joints in an airbrush nozzle. It is a solid piece of machined steel. Ten minutes in the buzz bowl will have that nozzle cleaner than using the needle tip to clean it out, and with less risk of damaging the needle tip or nozzle or both. Also the wrench provided with the airbrush is completely sufficient to remove and reinstall the nozzles. This is why Iwata provides them. That's what they are for. One just needs to be careful. One does not "need" to buy another tool.