The Amazing Carbide Burr - Metal Working Tools You Need!!

[@swolebro]

Those burrs are also a great way to remove the nitride edge from the inside of a plasma cut hole. So if you plasma cut some bolt holes, then decide you ought to go up a size, a quick pass with the burr will make it drill-friendly again - or you can use the burr for all the enlargement.

[@kealsmbalistic3499]

Thanks man, you just solved my problem. I'm currently on a project, didn't see the need to waste cash on the burr tool, so I settled for a router (since I already have it). So far, it worked (cause I've smoothen over a 100 14mm holes so far) till yesterday when it snapped! God! It got me really frightened and sad, I couldn't go on cause the bit started to wobble (I think I got too comfortable and didn't grip it firmly in place, that's why). Straightened the bit but it just snapped again! So far, I think the speed of the router is way too much for the burr. I'm going to get the burr tool after all. Thanks again for the video, you just got an extra fan 😊

[@andyjame9687]

This larger die grinder kzbin.infoUgkxmwiwyX3ADeryrwvcsiwLeKxme6QNQmGL runs very smoothly in use. There's virtually no vibration. Paddle switch with the safety trigger is a bit cumbersome to use, but is much safer. Grinder cannot turn on if set down on the bench.Note that this die grinder, like most others, runs at 25,000 rpm. Always use a face shield and hearing protection. If your grinding stone has any sign of chips or cracks, throw it away. At 25,000 rpm, the stone sees very high G-loads and could come apart explosively if the stone is damaged. Always run the grinder for a short time before using it to check the stone.This tool is heavier than some but very well made.Recommended.

[@jimpritz4169]

Thanks for bringing up the slivers that these burrs create b/c those things are deadly.

[@robsdeviceunknown]

Holy cow man. I just added new carbide burrs to my shopping cart like an hour ago. Great timing. Glad i didnt instant buy ( I usually wait a few days and add more stuff) because I realized. The set I was planning on getting are too cheap compared to pferd ones. But $120 for those steel burr set only is a bit rich for me, no more than I use them so will try to find a set around 60-80 that will be sufficient.

[@scooteroo1701]

Found these a few years ago and holy crap are they great and fast to use. Even the cheap versions work fantastic for me with the small amount of metalworking I do

[@frogpit]

bar of soap on the bits before anything, makes life easy and the shop smells better too ;P

[@gavin6538]

That’s a good bit of advice. You need a Chanel of your own if you have more like that

[@frogpit]

@@gavin6538 ty ;D i do have a channel. just slowly making videos, current project is worse than watching pain dry sadly.

[@gavin6538]

@@frogpit as soon as I typed that I went over and had a look. Keep up the good work. I will be following.

[@frogpit]

@@gavin6538 thanks. Almost to 300 woo

[@cra4war]

I believe it but I don’t believe it haha

[@austinturney745]

I find that with chip cleanup time and aggravating splinter risk, I almost never actually use my carbide burrs. This video is a good reminder that there are specific uses, but splinters can get all over so in the end they almost never actually get used given cleanup and protection hassles

[@botsbass842]

They make the cylinder shaped ones that cut on the end, and i have more than once used them to flatten a broken bolt deep down in a hole, in order to easier drill and extract it. Also, if you ever get the 6" extended burrs, don't bother putting them in a die grinder just grab a drill, ask me how i know

[@tode5675]

Aluminum burrs work really well on hardwoods.

[@highanddryful]

Fantastic mate, going to use this tool to grind away the thread of a 16mm hex nut as I'm making a destressed look signant ring. I use a magnet to brush up the metal slivers

[@georgef1176]

I’ve burned out every model from Dremel they make. So I tried a WEN brand and I have yet too burn it out. It’s been great. Next I’m gonna try the battery Milwaukee. I have the die grinders and they are nice.

[@Maximoootom]

The right tools make all the difference.

[@21thTek]

by the way , u can easily pick up the iron chips with a magnet. example : a speaker magnet ...

[@ToolsandTime]

Some really cool metalworking tips there--thank you. Those bits are pricey but wow what results!

[@CleaveMountaineering]

Never tried one before on aluminum - that's really impressive - cou;d've saved me some trouble a few times. I just got an older Makita corded die grinder at an estate sale for $5!

[@madeddiesman-stylemonsterm6662]

Very useful information. Thank you for taking the time to show each type and how they are used.

[@carletonhoffman]

thanks for the great video. i didn't even know about die grinders until one of the stores i called looking for burrs mentioned them but i really can't go out and buy yet one more expensive tool. i was thinking of trying to use the burr in a drill press. connecting 2 drilled holes like you illustrate is exactly what i need to do but i assumed i should use a cylindrical rather than cone-shaped burr so maybe i made a mistake when i bought this more expensive style yesterday. i don't understand why it is better to use the cone but i guess it's so you can enter the predrilled hole from an angle. i'm glad you mentioned Dremel and i may try using that for this project.

[@josechavez5950]

A bit late find of your video but glad to hear you and your shop are well. Thanks for the review as well as the tutorial.

[@klubstompers]

They are great for porting heads.

[@robertrada4783]

Pferd “Tough Cut” Burrs are god tier.

[@jonkwin9620]

Those shavings are really bad, very sharp and get into everything - I use a shop vac with the nozzle tie-wired near to the grinding site, it helps a lot.

[@MakeEverything]

That’s a good tip! I’ve always thought if I could just find a way to deflect them or collect them it would make the process so much better! Nothing worst then finding one in your shirt later on!

[@thallmeister]

Yeah we have a collector at our profile grinders too, I have a worn out welding jacket that I like to throw on with some nitrile gloves to keep the chip invasion down. The fun part is finding out that you didn't cover the tongue of your shoes after you've already made a big mess.

[@rossilake218]

FUNNY! I told my girlfriend, if you get one in your panties, you’ll know. Yes, they are very sharp. All swarf.

[@Jmmnfam]

@@MakeEverything Oh, there are definitely worse places to get a sharp shaving than your shirt

[@Tom-hz9oc]

I’m with you Jon, using air to clean off those little razors can be really bad. I also use a shop vac to pick them up while grinding.

[@ataarjomand]

Thanks a lot for this wonderful video. I did not know about this useful tool.

[@R2_D3]

You should really try out the Milwaukee straight die grinder, I have both, the 90degree and the straight, I love them both!! Also, the 90 degree is great for using Rollock disks, with all sorts of types of abrasives!!

[@TrevorDennis100]

I have lots of burrs, several die grinders and a Dremel, but I don't think I have any Carbide burrs. I have stacks of carbide end mills and slot drills though, and worked 40 years as a toolmaker so I know how good they are (unless you drop them). I'll be ordering 1/4" and 1/8" sets today though. It broke my heart seeing that beautiful slab of aluminium eaten away. A piece like that would cost me some dollars here in NZ.

[@garybrown9719]

I used to use a torch in the 70s

[@chrisladouceur4093]

Now this is exactly what I need!!

[@robinr.2233]

Got a set from HF to dress inside welds, they did nothing to the welds but all the burrs on the dies were ground flat in a couple of minutes.

[@arustydodge2111]

Face Shield, plus safety glasses with side shields. The debris those burrs create will fly everywhere!

[@MikeEdwards-l6m]

Brilliant. Thank you.

[@timk5867]

Wd40 gets the chips out pretty quick

[@markstevens5645]

Nice vid. Never blow shavings, vacuum. Full face shield with safety glasses.

[@Mattmazz77]

Would a single cut work on the harder steel or whatever metal material or would it just get destroyed? Because I read the complete opposite. Single cut for an aggressive cut on whatever material and double cut was more for finishing work. Obviously watching this I know to use the double cut on the application I'm going to use it for so thank you. I know this is an older video so I don't know if you're still making content 🤔

[@MakeEverything]

Single cut works on steel too, I use single cut for finer work when I don’t want as aggressive of a surface finish. Go slower with less pressure and you’re fine.

[@k..............1622]

The diamond cut version are even better imo

[@brianbassett4379]

Amazing! Well... they were amazing before you were born also.

[@Mitalayeka]

This video has been helpful, thank u.

[@danielchambers1958]

Good info Sir…..

[@RedondoBeach2]

Are carbide burrs suitable for grinding bolts? Situation: I have a china cabinet comprised of three sections and bolted together to make one piece of furniture. The bolts are really just threaded metal shanks with a decorative brown plastic head in the shape of a circle, with a slot in the center that allowed for the center to allow a screwdriver to screw the furniture together. After 20+ years of assembly, the adhesive used to attach the plastic head to the metal shank has failed and separated, leaving the metal shank stuck inside the furniture. Is a carbide burr durable enough to cut through the metal shank? I do not know how hard a typical bolt is, and whether a die grinder with a carbide tip would be appropriate. I realize this could cause some damage to the furniture if the die grinder slips. This would be acceptable. However, the basic question remains; is a die grinder and carbide burr capable of grinding away hardware that is stuck in a piece of furniture?

[@MakeEverything]

Absolutely, but be careful because that burr will grind anything you put in it’s way. So if there is wood around the bolt it’ll grind the wood whenever it skips off the bolt. Good luck!

[@RedondoBeach2]

@@MakeEverything Thank you for the quick reply. Greatly appreciate your advice since this helped me to decide to buy a die grinder. I intend to buy a Hilti. Unsure if you have an opinion on their grinder. I currently have batteries and chargers for the Hilti Nuron platform and the Milwaukee M18 Fuel platform.

[@olegpetelevitch4443]

Good stuff ! Thank you !

[@leves83]

Put a strong magnet on it, against the chip.

[@pete4866]

Where do You put all the metal shavings after using vacuum, regular trash bin?

[@spencerbass7142]

Great video.

[@thahoustonbassrunnaz4389]

Great video 💪🏾

[@projet2907]

Just for a couple of holes for a Cam Lock, could I use my Milwaukee M12 drill with the Burr? Thank You for this video and link. Very informative

[@MakeEverything]

It doesn’t really spin the bit fast enough but it’ll chew away the metal a little bit at a time. The high rpm makes these efficient but also flings slivers everywhere!

[@projet2907]

@@MakeEverything Ok, Thank You. It might be Aluminium. Easier to work with?

[@alf3071]

you could have used a cutting disk for that too

[@ronaldsnell1503]

Great Videos! LEARNING @ 75

[@WizardEDC]

Can we use these on copper and brass also?

[@carletonhoffman]

i've always been limited by the length of my hose

[@adamthewoodworker2571]

Hi, would you say that these would be useful at all for removing rust from tight to reach places? Or would it remove too much of the bare metal itself to be useful

[@takenocrap1892]

Thank you for your excellent knowledge on the subject, can you advise if there are any router bits for the Dremel 4250 as Amazon has a variety and i bought the 20 PCS Die Grinder accessories and was wondering if this will work with the Dremel 4250. Also i found the Dremel 660 Router set , will this work with the Dremel 4250 and if i can find the Collet and Collet Nut will this work for routing applications as well. Your help and advise is much appreciated or a site where i can buy them .Thank you

[@eroshtik6997]

Great video Super

[@georgecurtis6463]

I used metal ones from the 70s till the early 2000s. And yes, they were the same ones, never had to replace them. No, they were not used daily, they had specific uses. And in my days it was air tools only. Y'all are spoiled with yer fancy cordless stuff.

[@p5yc40naut]

I'm of the cordless generation, but I'd hands-down prefer air tools any day of the week. The sad reality of cordless tools is that there is not really even a single model currently produced, not even in 2022, which can deliver an amount of power/force large enough for it to be competitive in terms of performance with its pneumatic equivalent, AND can hold a charge for a significant enough duration that you won't have to spend 90 minutes recharging it after every 30 minutes of use. Battery technology simply isn't advanced enough yet to give power tool users the kinetic energy specs of they would find among middle of the road pneumatic tools while at the same time providing that energy on a continuous, uninterrupted basis for, say, 60 minutes, or 90 minutes, without the need for a recharge. Even if the technology was that advanced, the recharge period would probably 24 hours or some outlandish number like that, making pneumatic tools the better option for serious hobbyists and professionals, whatever their hobby or profession may be.

[@brianwalker1933]

Agreed 100%. In my trade as a Fitter & Turner when l worked in construction & demolition we were issued with cordless power tools to try out and what we thought of them. Well, very quickly we found them to be useless, due to the fact from a lack of torque and very short run times. Every 15-20 minutes they ran out of power….We didn’t do much work that day. 😊 The next day, we went back to using pneumatic power tools, including the use of power corded tools. Cordless tools have their “pros & cons” but for serious heavy duty work demands…they are totally inadequate.

[@markodenbrett4363]

​@@p5yc40nautI know this is an old post, sadly the technology is out there for it but the manufacturers want to charge way too much for it or won't make it available for reasons only they know. Some that savy with lithium battery mods will juice them up so that the tool can actually meet its potential. Unfortunately this will void the warranty but honestly it is something worth looking into if you like to mess with stuff like that. It's sad that the larger 21700 cells were specially made to give power tool batteries more capacity and more of a punch at a lower cost but the manufacturer's said screw that and doubled if not tripled the price in some situations

[@johnnymathes5215]

​@p5yc40naut except you can have more than one battery. Most of us have a dozen or more batteries to go with a dozen or more tools. I carry a small charger and if I kill a batt I put it on charge and grab another. No down time and no compressor needed. If you were staying in shop all the time then yea air is better( maybe) but if your on the go batteries all the way

[@RoyMeraki]

is speed control an absolute necessary for using carbide burrs. I have a basic die grinder which runs at 25,000 rpm. Can this be used with carbide burss on metal. Looking forward for some advice.

[@pjenslin1]

Can I use these on wood as well?

[@21thTek]

Beaiutiful, original & very useful, thanks so much !!

[@firebladex8586]

3:38 air grinders have no motor? You might want to double check that.

[@deucedeuce1572]

I have to make a small, oddly shaped hole in a thick surgical stainless tube for a tool, but I'm not sure which kind of burr to get. The hole will only be 1/16" at its thinnest point and the depth makes it impossible to use any wheels. Hoping to be able to do it all with one bit on the Dremel. If anyone has any idea what would work, I'd appreciate it.

[@renechavez4046]

hola, sirven para madera? se pueden colocar en un router? saludos y gracias

[@Xtafa]

Would the aluminium burrs work decently on copper too? I know it'll likely gum up fast but still curious

[@sonnynguyen8012]

Great video. Thank you.❤

[@PatrickPease]

drilling has the highest material removal rate of any machine tool operation, if all you got is a drill press and burs let the press do more work

[@thirunavukkarasuk6213]

I want the burs to use in wood items. Is it okay? If it is ok how can I purchase from you and send the price details also item wise to me

[@labtrainer09]

This was VERY instructive and helpful. Do you ever use these burrs in a drill press for "stability"? I ask because I need to make a series of identical slots in aluminum plate.

[@InspiredCraftsman]

My experience with burrs is that a drill doesn't spin them fast enough to be effective. Carbide burrs are meant to spin in the multiple of thousand rpm range. It will work in the drill but not nearly as well and reduce the life of the burr.

[@labtrainer09]

@@InspiredCraftsman Thanks so much for the good follow-up!

[@ldgillette]

Can you use these 1/4" shank burrs in a router on mild steel?

[@stealthinator00]

It like a jumbo sized dentist drill bit.

[@luckypao6650]

Can we use the carbide burr on wood ?

[@MakeEverything]

Yes you can!

[@luckypao6650]

Thank you.

[@nielscremer599]

Great Video. Just don't understand why you think ripping off the north face logo is cool for your shirts... Just make your own

[@gaspardelbarrio8275]

What!? You mean corded drills, not cordless, right?

[@melgross]

I’d rather vacuum those fine chips away. Blowing them gets them all over the shop, and you get them in your hands when you don’t even know they’re there. The aluminum bits work very well with most all plastics, and even wood.

[@rob99rst]

flapper disc is quicker

[@danilobautista3007]

Hm

[@mcflurrybutts4927]

Is it bad that I bought something before knowing how to use it properly?

[@alfredocuomo1546]

The only point I disagree with you is never blow the chips away, vacuum them up or you'll never get ride of them little buggers.

[@colinstu]

When I first used these bits and a die grinder, I didn't know how bad the slivers would be. I was doing work underneath my car, no gloves... may hands were absolutely COVERED with them. Was able to mostly clean up... one of them however went deep into my skin, and my body formed a capsule around it. That was 2-3 years ago, and actually just recently went to the Dr to get it removed. Yeah, don't skimp on the gloves, folks.

[@MakeEverything]

They are brutal! Sometimes I even wear rubber gloves under my welding gloves if I’m using the small burrs. They produce such a smaller chip and sliver, if feels like fiberglass in your skin, but worse!!

[@rossilake218]

With any kind of sliver (swarf) rub alcohol on the skin, dig it out with a stearyl safety pin. The hole will heal. Most of the time if left in, your body will puss around it and force it out. My 2 pennies.

[@carlfeliciano8055]

With a common metals, i use neodymium magnets. Im alergic with all kinds of metal but gold.😁😁😁

[@PKristianCZ]

lol i hate them so mich so when i was yesterday grinding, i used hazmat overal 🥺😂

[@wwtrkr3189]

I'm always looking for better, faster, more efficient ways of working both at home and in my job. Love this kind of content and your no B/S presentation is enjoyable to watch. Your fabrication videos are inspiring. Keep up the good work.

[@jodydewey3516]

You can also use a carbide bur on a trim router. That way you can cut perpendicular in a very distinct depth and profile if needed.

[@colt10mmsecurity68]

I use a shop vac with the ultra fine HEPA filter installed when cleaning up metal shavings.

[@JohnC686]

I have know about carbide burrs pretty much forever but never bought them till recently. What a game changer. I like to keep both a compressed air source and the shop-vac close by when using them.

[@f1mikeyboy]

I use these type of burs almost every day. Keep a good set of tweezers, and some magnification handy, to pull out those metal splinters. Thanks for the video.

[@garypaisley]

Steel slivers from these are really nasty, even aluminum can be made hazardous. Be careful!

[@toddbuh]

I am currently "modifying" a winch ready rear bumper on a side by side and had no idea how to do it, I was thinking I would have to take it to a machine shop to have the work done, but your video just showed me how to do it, myself.! I mostly have to make the bolt slots longer on one side to get more distance between the support bars so I can put a 5,000 lb winch in a bumper made for a 3,500 lb winch. Then extend the slot where the cable goes through so I can use a bigger fairlead. I'm subscribing so I can learn more, I'm just starting metal working and have no idea what I need or how do to do what I want to do. Thanks for the video

[@Dr.CandanEsin]

Must have a tool I learnt. Thank you for eye opening shares.

[@angell6425]

Thank you so much I was able to find a tungsten carbide burr for dremel and make a pill shaped hole I needed to get a mounting bracket to fit on a wind deflector. very happy. Glad I found this video.

[@InspiredCraftsman]

It's a breeze to clean up the chips with a magnetic baton. Evolution makes one that works great. Removing the chips from the magnetic wand is super easy too. Step up the rpm to get rid of the chatter.

[@BrewCityRider]

Thanks...I'll check out that baton thing!

[@1crazypj]

Been using carbide burrs at least 40 years, price is a LOT lower now than it used to be. You do know they are available with 6" shanks ? I usually cut them down to around 4" or so as 6" is way longer than I need and more difficult to control at 10,000 rpm. As for cutting aluminium, use WD40 or Crisco (Crisco is better than WD40) Using an air-line to blow off chips is a real bad idea, it drives them into places they wouldn't normally get, vacuum cleaner is a much better idea (and people throw out vacuum's all the time so it may not actually cost anything other than a few minuted cleaning out blockage in suction pipe - I got an almost new Dyson 'Pet hair' vac that had been thrown away and had a sheet of notepaper stuck in it)

[@wildflower1542]

Carbide Burr is 65/70 HRC not 45 according to what you said & Vanadium Carbide is 80/85 HRC 45 is too soft for metal working project so be specific ...

[@gracemeguide1]

What is the best kind of burr bit to use when just trying to remove the excess steel/burr when you drill a hole. I'm talking about just cleaning the edges. For a cordless drill

[@MakeEverything]

ive actually had good luck using a ball end burr to clean up sharp edges on drilled holes. They really want to be spun faster than in just a drill, but a drill will do the trick if your in a bind!

[@rossilake218]

Hope you “VEE’d” your weld junction. Your grinding the whole weld away. 😥

[@skunkjobb]

If your burr gets clogged with aluminum, you can let it sit in sodium hydroxide and the Al will dissolve without damaging the burr.

[@dwwoodbuilds]

Love the tool tips videos! Please keep making them! This is a great example of a great tool that has so many uses, and saves time!

[@jaybraithwaite6839]

Use them to blend micro undercut on welds where adding more weld would be far too much. Makes painted metal after welding look great. Also running it across before your weld pass can help to expose clean metal to get a smoother arc if your specimen happens to have a ton of rust and mill scale. 👌🏻

[@chris7662]

I never used one of these and I think you did a real good job introducing their benefits. Thanks for taking the time.

[@rom14141]

Cutting slots is easy with a Bridgeport, but not everybody has a mill. The carbide burrs are a great tool for both those who have and those who don't have a mill, can't throw a huge weldment assembly on a Bridgeport and the mill is too heavy and cumbersome to carry around the shop for quick carving. HAHAHA. I grew up the son and grandson of machinists who owned a successful machine shop, did my fair share too, chip control / evacuation / clean-up / recycling is a major part of the process and can be a literal pain. It's been four years since we sold our shop and I still find an occasional chip in my old work T-shirt pockets. Fine stainless slivers were the worst. Great tips and tricks!

[@iheart3dprinting951]

Dude those use cases are eye opening. I bought that right angle die grinder after watching some of your videos!

[@travisfreeman2647]

Just found 7 of these splinters in my skin just from watching this video. Those boogers get everywhere.

[@thecoulsongoodwin]

I just fully restored one of those Hylo vises, picked up at auction, glad to see not everyone uses them exclusivley for milling

[@jabbaweezy]

Wow the world of tools is so vast and I'm always learning. I hope this tool gets me out of my tight spot.

[@snowismas]

IF you don't work with aluminum a lot, then the Double cut works fine with aluminum, just spray some WD-40 and watch it eat.

[@richarcruz7843]

Thanks man for all ur content as a handyman u have inspired me to step up to th welding field we all appreciate u God Bless

[@thinkfirst6431]

Pneumatic tools have a motor it is just driven by compressed air not electricity. That is why they loose power after a lot of use, the vanes (air seals) wear and leak after a lot of use.