The Best Darkroom Paper Developer - Chris Patton's E-72 (Teaspoon formula)

I had a question yesterday from a subscriber asking about paper developers and I thought I'd share my favourite. It's so easy to make using teaspoon measurements and performs as well as any I've used through the years. It lasts at least six months in a sealed bottle. Recommended!
E-72
Dilute 1+3 for normal contrast.
John Finch
www.pictorialplanet.com

[@seandwyer3598]

Wonderful to see this one, John! I couldn’t agree more about E 72. This is my paper developer of choice as well, although, I know of no one else that uses it. That is, until now! I typically go for the high contrast 1:1 mix and love the bold tones it provides. I used to use Ilford Multi-grade developer, but E72 is less expensive, less toxic, and I prefer the results.

[@PictorialPlanet]

Great to find other E72 users! It's a real gem of a developer. Thanks for you comment, Sean.

[@dirkvandamme]

Hi John, Many thanks for addressing this topic!!!

[@jagman1953]

Thanks very much John, this is one I’ve been waiting for. Your videos are immensely helpful

[@PictorialPlanet]

Great to hear!

[@gerardodalchielelueiro6818]

Thanks for your information Is very usefull and helpfull for me Congratularions from Argentina

[@PictorialPlanet]

Thank you Gerardo!

[@barrykirsten7517]

Hi John, another great video! I haven't used E-72 myself, but will certainly try it. How would you describe its tone? I notice you seem to use FB papers a lot and your print tone appears to be slightly on the warm side, which I prefer myself. Also what paper do you mostly use. Thanks for another superb video.

[@PictorialPlanet]

Cheers Barry, you're very kind. E72 is probably on the slightly warm side of neutral. I use Ilford multigrade FB neutral papers. I find their richer tone and contrast pleasing compared to RC. They are easily toned if I want to, either warm or cold. I flatten them in a t-shirt press I bought on Amazon for £90 ish. Works a treat!

[@davidpresnell1734]

Try adding clean glass marbles to your container to raise the level to the cap. Rinse and dry the marbles before each use in new formulas. Compared to chemical costs they are cheap and reusable for life.

[@PictorialPlanet]

A useful tip David

[@davidpresnell1734]

I want to thank you for the useful formulas. I've been looking for a source for them.

[@PictorialPlanet]

You're very welcome, David.

[@rolft.7697]

Thanks a lot for sharing all those wonderful formulas, John ! Just wondered if it would be possible to replace the Phenidon with Metol...any ideas ? Cheers and best regards from Switzerland

[@PictorialPlanet]

Hi Rolf and thanks for your comment. No, this would not work as well with metol. If you want to use metol I'd recommend one of the generic formulas with metol and hydroquinone like D-72 for instance. Of course, these would not be as safe or Earth friendly.

[@rolft.7697]

@@PictorialPlanet thanks alot for your fast response !

[@justabloke6229]

Great video (in fact great series)... How does this print developer respond to toning in say, sepia or selenium?

[@PictorialPlanet]

Hi JaB. There's no problem toning after this developer has been used. In my experience, I've found that toning ability is usually more to do with the actual paper (make, type, etc) than the developer that was used to develop it.

[@justabloke6229]

@@PictorialPlanet Many thanks for the reply, makes sense. Looking forward to further content.

[@nevilleholmes1324]

Can you confirm that it will develop Multi grade papers please. Also what is the expected working capacity? And finally, could it be mixed like FX55 with the ascorbic acid and Phenedone/glycol added just when needed thus extending the shelf life of the base solution? Many thanks PS I did a quick test with some scrounged developer, FX55 and 510 Pyro semi stand. The highlights held best in the 510 Pyro but not by much so have opted to use FX55 with HP5 at ISO 200, developed for 10mins and see how I get on for the summer. I just feel more comfortable with the less toxic FX55.

[@PictorialPlanet]

Thanks for this Neville, these are great questions. So, yes, this works perfectly with multigrade papers. I use them for all my work now. I expect the working capacity to be similar to D-72 when used at 1+3 which is 20-30 10x8 prints per litre. I must say I never use mine to capacity because I bottle the working developer between sessions and discard it after two or three sessions of a total of, maybe, 15-20 10x8s. To answer the second point, I think you could add the developing agents just before use and I think that's a very good idea indeed!! So good I'm going to start doing that myself, Neville! Now, about your observation of 510 vs FX55 - yes, totally agree and I too like the safer FX55, especially as it shows such good results with my films of choice. I really like that developer.

[@PictorialPlanet]

Neville, now you've been using the FX55 for a while, how are you finding it?

[@nevilleholmes1324]

@@PictorialPlanet I really like the FX 55. I mainly use HP 5 at iso 200 for 10.5 mins. Grain well controlled. I have had good results with Delta 100 and fp4 at ISO 200. Scan well, print with soft grades in darkroom. I wonder if I should reduce the development time om just used to fp4 in perceptol.

[@PictorialPlanet]

Yeah, bring down the time a tad to get in the grade 2-3 area. Good to hear, Neville! I'm so glad it's working out for you.

[@stansnowball6954]

Hi John, I wondered if it was possible to use Potassium Carbonate in place of the Sodium salt, and if so, does this affect the amount required?

[@PictorialPlanet]

No problem using potassium carbonate instead of sodium carbonate. Assuming both are anhydrous then multiply the amount of sodium carbonate anhyd by 1.3 to get the amount of the potassium salt needed.

[@stansnowball6954]

Thanks a lot John! Looking forward to trying this one. Best, Stan.

[@CBerryman57]

Hello John, thanks so much for your instructions, I am making great progress now that I am seeing them. With this formula, can you confirm the weight of the sodium Carbonate? You have indicated is 77 g, but when I measure 9 tablespoons, it comes to 107 g. Maybe my sodium carbonate is impure or not properly anhydrous (I make it myself from Sodium Bicarbonate). Also, it occurs to me that, because you are starting with the Phenidone, it would seem to work to dissolve a full quarter teaspoon in 900 mils of water, and discard 300 mils, therefore having 600 mils with 2/3 of a quarter teaspoon dissolved. Would that work or am I getting something wrong there? Thanks

[@PictorialPlanet]

Your Carbonate might be impure if your making it yourself, hence the weight difference. However, it might still make a good developer so do use it.

[@cowboyyoga]

Hi John ! I was looking through your collection of videos to recall how to figure out Propylene Glycol, Phenidone in a percentage. Will you send me a link to that video, please. I am guessing that I need one third of 1 mil liter of a 1% phenidone (100 mil of Propylene Glycol, to 1gm of phenidone) mixture to make Chris Patton's E-72 ? Is that close enough? I really want to try to this developer! ))) What a great video this is! Thank you as always for your support!

[@PictorialPlanet]

Hi Gary, try this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmnNoGWfj7mWnK8

[@PictorialPlanet]

Using the 1% phenidone solution you'll need 30ml to get 0.3g. You could make a 2% phenidone solution 2g phenidone in 100ml PG and then you'd need just 15ml.

[@cowboyyoga]

@@PictorialPlanet John thank you very much! Boy, am I happy that I asked you before just jumping in. It will be nice when I can have your book in the darkroom, and just flip through the pages to find info! Hopefully, tootie pooti will go home and DHL will go back to work! )))

[@PictorialPlanet]

:)

[@msam927]

Thanks again for such important information. Today I am going to prepare E-72 but I have a question. The preparation lasts about six months but for how long can we use the working dilution (1+3)? And how much paper can be developed with each liter of preparation (1+3)?

[@PictorialPlanet]

I reuse the diluted developer a couple of times in a week and probably might put 10-20 sheets of 10x8 through it in that time total. I'm a slow user and prefer to use the factorial method of development to ascertain when my developer needs refreshing. This us explained in my book but basically remember the time it takes for a mid tone to just start to appear in your print with fresh developer. It might be 30 seconds. Now, when it takes 50% longer (45 seconds) for a midtone to appear your developer is done and you need fresh. This is an arbitrary figure, Mx, but I've found it works well for me and stops me using exhausted developer and finding my prints have poor blacks.

[@msam927]

@@PictorialPlanet Thanks again for your enormous kindness. You have answered my question perfectly. I would like to have your book but I read English with great difficulty and resorting to the translator. If it ever gets published in Spanish, I'll definitely buy it. I am also a slow user. Maybe that's why I enjoy your videos and the way you work so much; that is what has encouraged me to work on the preparation of solutions of chemical products, to which until now I have been a little reluctant.

[@msam927]

@@PictorialPlanet "10-20 sheets of 10x8" .inches i guess

[@PictorialPlanet]

Correct

[@gerardodalchielelueiro6818]

An other more quiestion Could you tel me about replacement of Phenidone for an other product Because here on Argentina I can´t obtain Phenidone Best regards John

[@PictorialPlanet]

Hi Gerardo. Can you buy from the formulary in the USA? Will they send to you in Argentina?

[@user-eu7go5pg5f]

There's an option to replace it with metol. This developer also lasts very long, even used. Sulphite 15g, ascorbic acid 10g, metol 1.5g, sodium carbonate 31g, KBr 1gr. Also you can use potassium carbonate (40g) instead of sodium and make a concentrated 2x...3x solution. "Sodium" version gives you a better blacks, "potassium" - better midtones.

[@PictorialPlanet]

Thanks

[@jhasi7974]

@@user-eu7go5pg5f hey i just found ur formula. since i got some metol i dont use for anything else, i want to try it in this paper developer. do you use this developer diluted or full strength ?

[@chrisreich40]

I've always read that phenidone was difficult to dissolve in water. You didn't think twice about doing just that. What is the difference between what you've done here and making the film developers that require phenidone dissolved in TEA or glycol?

[@PictorialPlanet]

Hi Chris. Good question! There’s no difference. I use both techniques. It’s funny with phenidone. I’ve had phenidone that was aweful to dissolve and then I’ve had it that goes right into solution easily (as does the stuff I have right now). I think it might be to do with how fresh it is perhaps but can’t say exactly - I mean the phenidone I’m using right now is grey/brown which doesn’t seem very fresh? There’s two main reasons I dissolve it in glycol though and that’s firstly so it keeps for a long time (I don’t go through a lot of it) and secondly so I can easily measure out small amounts accurately with a syringe.

[@msam927]

Could you tell me how to get phenidone from Spain? I'm looking and I found something on eBay, from Great Britain; It comes packaged in black plastic bags, but I don't know if they are reliable. Thank you very much for all the information you share in your videos.

[@PictorialPlanet]

Hi Mx, check out my website and look under the tab Suppliers. Fototechnik will supply you and are very reliable.

[@msam927]

@@PictorialPlanet Thank you so much. But "No shipping options found for (my city)"

[@PictorialPlanet]

Try emailing them

[@msam927]

@@PictorialPlanet I'll try. Thank you.

[@johnbelcher7955]

N.B In the transcript @4.32 it says sodium sulphite (although I heard sulfide) & @5.20 it says sodium sulfide!

[@PictorialPlanet]

Thanks John. I'll upload a fix in the video. It's important that people know it's sodium sulphite I'm talking about so this is very useful info.

[@johnbelcher7955]

@@PictorialPlanet Mr Finch, I would like to take this opportunity to thank you for your video, I do have a quick question if I may. I am a ceramicist and use to measuring out dry ingredients for glazes with scientific balance scales, is this more accurate or not really necessary or does this give an added layer of consistency? Also, I am dyslexic and wasn't sure if I had made a mistake in regards to the comment. Many thanks for your time and videos! Regard John Belcher.

[@PictorialPlanet]

Hi John, you are right that using scientific scales will increase accuracy. If one uses teaspoon measurements all the time then one will also be consistent and any slight differences, between teaspoon measurement and weight, will be adjusted for in development times etc. In days gone by teaspoon and tablespoon amounts were often given because many people didn't own scientific scales and volumetric measurements were found to work well. It's also nice and easy ;)

[@AtlantaTerry]

I don't hear an exhaust fan or see you wearing a dust mask. Are you not concerned with getting chemical dust into your lungs?

[@PictorialPlanet]

Thanks for your comment, Terry! I do wear a mask when mixing Pyro based developers (or stand upwind when outside) because of their high toxicity but not for these. I guess I'm old school. Edit: I just want to add that you should use whatever protective equipment you feel necessary when using any chemicals. It's important you are safe in your darkroom.