The Best Historybounding Accessory? Making an Edwardian Vestee in One Day

Sometimes you just need a quick one-day project to brighten your historical (or modern) wardrobe! Enter the Vestee. Popular during the 1910s, this garment filled in and filled out the necklines of various dresses and blouses. Rather than waste fabric making an entire blouse that wouldn't be seen, the vestee simply fills in the front and creates a dramatic effect around the neck. They come in all sorts of styles, so you're sure to find one that suits your taste.
It's the perfect stashbuster for small yardages of fabric and requires very little fitting effort. It's also a great way to try out different collar styles without concern over ruining an entire big project! Try out some simple drafting, learn a new trim technique, practice your buttonholes, whatever has been daunting you- it's time to test it out with some fabric remnants and no pressure! Then you'll have the perfect piece to throw on under a cardigan, v-neck, or that wrap blouse that always opens too far.
Of note: Dickie or Dickey seems to refer to men's stiffened shirt fronts during this time more so than women's garments (those cardboard like fronts that spring up in the face in Bugs Bunny cartoons). It's not exclusive, but Vestee, Chemisette, Collar, Jabot, etc seem to be used far more often. I, for one, am glad for this new to me term of Vestee.
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[@NicoleRudolph]

Since I know it's a common question- Dickey/Dickie is a 19th c term that was used in reference to men's stiffened shirt fronts (think Bugs Bunny cartoons). It was mostly used that way up until the mid 20th century. I did find a few references that likened the two, but terms like Vestee, Chemisette, Jabot, Collar, etc seemed to be FAR more common for women's garments. Dickey/Dickie was almost exclusively for mens (they also called those Bosoms by the way).

[@Codeexcited]

I was about be like Woah it's an Edwardian Dickey

[@medicalherbalist2216]

I think dickey is an American English term, not used in the UK?

[@yokoboo]

Have you ever thought of making/selling turn around stock photo collections to sell on a platform like gumroad? I ask mostly because I know as an artist that draws a lot of characters (many of which are historically inspired by edwardian/victorian fashion) it would be super helpful to see these historical silhouettes and shapes from all angles. Like... when you wore the first vestee and turned my brain suddenly sat up and was like, "Oh! That's how that would look from that angle!" Because looking at fashion plates and watching videos on construction (and hoping that whoever ends up wearing it will turn around and that they do it slow enough that it doesn't smear and that you can pause it at just the right time) is all well and good, but being able to examine still photos in a complete turn around would be so helpful as art reference.

[@anaiyafalcon]

In Canada, a dickie is a knit turtleneck with flaps on the front and back that is used under a coat to protect the neck in the winter in lieu of a scarf or other more bulky option.

[@bonelace111]

@@anaiyafalcon I think I accidentally made myself something like that to stop the Scottish wind getting in - I just made it up so didn't know what to call it apart from a cowl, but it's much more fitted, basically a snug tube/turtleneck going up to my ears and just far enough down the front and the back to tuck under a coat or jumper. I've never seen anything like it here so wasn't sure how much use I'd get out of it, but I ended up wearing it almost every day in December and January!

[@mcwjes]

She needed a break, so she drafted and made three vesties in a day. I needed a break so I watched her work and ate ice cream. Funny how different a break can be.

[@PeacefulSlumber]

I'm here for the same reason! 😂

[@Laura55sere]

Can’t sew much anymore, (arthritis) so I watch other people sew, very relaxing!

[@knittingmoose]

.... So what you're saying is that, I can have Evil Queen collars with literally all of my clothes? Yeeeesssss. This pleases me

[@XenusMama]

This. Absolutely this.

[@ascdancer]

this title is the opposite of clickbait lol "making an Edwardian vestee in one day" *actually made three in a weekend*

[@hazeluzzell]

A bit of information you might find interesting. I am 80 and this information came from my great aunt when I was about 10. You do the math. My great aunt was a mill girl in Manchester UK, so no spare money. She told me they’d go out on Saturday morning and buy a yard of fabric, then make a , what she called a ‘blouset’ to wear out on a Saturday night. New one every Saturday. Also, this was the age of the black straw boater for ladies. Apparently that was spruced up with boot polish!

[@XenusMama]

Thank you, if you hadn’t posted this memory … it could have been lost. I shall endeavor to create some “ blousets” .

[@CaptainMischief]

A cardigan with one of these vestees and possibly a wrist ruffle bracelet thing could mean you could be INCREDIBLY over the top, while still being in an outfit that could just be thrown on. The dream!

[@alyssadepiro40]

Or just put a white scrunchie on each wrist

[@lauramathews3151]

Ruffs and cuffs!!!! Interchangeable?! Like sleeves as separates from bodices in the 15th n 16th centuries!!!!

[@m.maclellan7147]

Had to laugh during the reveal as I was "oohing" & "ahing" over each one & trying to decide my favorite, and that was all cast aside when I was thinking, 'She is so damned elegant!!!'. The very next frame was you doing the dinosaur thing! Snort ! Elegant but willing to be silly for a laugh ! 😅

[@mlbumller]

Three things I love about your videos: 1. History & context 2. The close ups of the little fiddlely bits. 3. Modeling are end of construction.

[@faitparchristine]

''You're pleats are even if they look even'', wow that is such a healthy way to look at it 😭 I have bad a tendency to measure and stress down to the millimetre, so I should plaster that phrase on my wall

[@daxxydog5777]

And in the 80s - 90s (the 1980s - 1990s, let’s be clear, I’m not quite that old!), we thought popping our collars was something new. Um, apparently not, lol! I love how Nicole finds these little gems and brings them back to light!

[@EnchantedForestArts]

That 3rd one is peak gentleman vampire aesthetic and I'm here for it

[@bjrnegillarsen1380]

I will certainly have to investigate vestees more, as it looks to me to be a quick and easy way to alter the ensemble cast costumes between scenes. Something that I would appreciate, as I'm the entire costume department for the local am-dram and working on a non-existing budget

[@imtired5297]

This was also my first thought! I have no experience in making theatre costumes at all but I think I might remember wearing something of the sort a while back for a show and it seems like an ingenious way to quickly add some variation to costumes.

[@pamspray5254]

Not to mention how modernizing these just a bit with, say, a zipper would make these perfect for quick-changes. And some thrifted cardigans could make for some cheap but appealing and immersive enough tops depending on the timing and scene of the program.

[@XenusMama]

Also great for updating those dresses I wore years ago in a warmer climate. Cover up the ( now older) girls & be a bit warmer. So thrilled to find another way to make loved dresses work.

[@bookhoarding]

I really like the idea of using scraps for this. Once the panini is over, all of us will be an army of fashionable hissing dinosaurs. People will be very jealous.

[@karenkavanagh9372]

Strutting our stuff. We're the BEST. We walk like we are models on the runway acting like designers and heads up as we are Haute Coururiers & MILLERY

[@XenusMama]

An army of fashionable hissing dinosaurs…. That MUST go on a cushion.

[@stephaniemiller5049]

I audibly gasped at that ruffled collar (which I need) with the sheer black top. I never would have thought of that in my wardrobe.

[@leonie4696]

I love how you made the three vestees so different - from soft and feminine to striking and bold. And I remembered the German name for these garments: Betrügerchen - which translates as "little cheaters" or "little fraudsters". They purport to be a blouse but they aren't.

[@thetimelesscostumemaker1266]

These sound very similar to the "dickeys" we used to wear under our jackets and sweaters in the 80's. Funny story, I have a friend who wore one under her jacket for work and during a staff meeting got hot and forgot she didn't have a full shirt on. She took off her jacket not realizing she was left in her collar thing and bra. Your vestees turned out beautiful.

[@anna_in_aotearoa3166]

Oh my gosh!! 🤣 That's a lot more excitement than one usually expects in a staff meeting... Your poor friend though. I'd be completely mortified - hope she has a stronger constitution!

[@adedow1333]

Thanks very much for the dinosaur impression! It made the Lady Tremaine style of snobbery of that knife-pleated collar so much better!

[@cincocats320]

I fell in love with chemisettes when I watched a video on the Emma costumes. Such a great idea that should never have gone out of style. Perfect way to add a bit of extra oomph to an outfit, fill in a too deep v necks, or use a bit of lux super expensive fabric. And a great way to perfect sewing skills and get some almost instant gratification.

[@stevezytveld6585]

I love your approach to knife pleats. Anything else would end in tears. I inherited a pleating machine from my late Mum. I've yet to use it, but my first thought was it would make an amazing upright collar. My confirmation bias thanks you. These chemisettes are wonderful. Thank you for sharing your research. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown

[@saritshull3909]

These and Chemisettes should have never gone away! They're perfect for those of us with bigger busts and/or those of us who don't like lower necklines. I have a few collar type things that I'd say are closer to a chemisette bc they cover up to the armscye seam and a bit down the back but don't tie or have elastic round.

[@Rozewolf]

I love it! The moment I saw your vestees, my brain which has been looking at Elizabethan clothing, went "OOh! It's a modern partlet!". What a great addition to a wardrobe. There are so many times that I've found a dress or a sweater that is just that smidge too low, and this will work wonderfully. Time to raid my fabric stash.

[@toericabaker]

holy crap this is a great first piece for me to try to start an edwardian outfit!!! thanks youtube person

[@adorothyinkansas4392]

If you are just getting started with Victorian clothing and it's making? You came to the right channel! She's fabulous!

[@Vereynique]

I made some of these not knowing what they were when I needed ruffled collars for my ministers when I was costuming the cast for our theatre's version of THE CRUCIBLE

[@gittevandevelde2208]

these remind of of 16th century partlets. Also, I have a decent-sized scrap of baby pink (viscose) crepe laying around...

[@asilverfoxintasmania9940]

yeah partlets were the very early version, but no where near this versatile and amazing!

[@lauramathews3151]

You'll be ready if they ever do a production of 1776 or Hamilton, or anything Shakespeare lol.

[@TheMetatronGirl]

I thought the ruffed collar was going to be my favorite, initially, but the waistcoat style vestee is just exquisite!! That dramatic collar is so cool. What a great way to zhuzh up any outfit, and a super quick project, to boot! There’s something about “instant” gratification projects...they always make me feel fantastic and seem to supercharge my motivation to finish my bigger projects. Really love these, and can’t wait to see those bigger projects on the horizon. Love, light, and blessings to you and yours.

[@dorota1504]

Woah those are surprisingly sexy. I love the pleated one look with black blouse. Stunning! Also spitting dinosaur for the win :D. You give me to many ideas Nicole. I'm still on ribbon corset and now a vestee & chemisette are in the 'must do' category.

[@MonaSkovJensen]

I was so in awe over the pleated collar and those black buttons but when you did the dinosaur thing I totally cracked up!!!

[@DemonicVampyr]

That tall pleated collar vestee with the sheer black blouse is *everything*. Chic and timeless and sexy and bold and fierce and and and!!! All of it!!!! Beautiful work, both in the craftsmanship and the video making. Thank you for sharing, Nicole.

[@joannemcmillan9201]

A historical relative of the dickie! Ooo love it!

[@wendynordstrom3487]

You beat me to it! 😁

[@nommh]

Wow! Bound buttonhole and one day project certainly don’t get to live in one sentence in my sewing universe. Your vestees are great! Especially the last one seems absolutely timeless.

[@oliquin-roo3420]

I'm in the hospital at the moment and your videos have really kept my spirits going. The pleated collar was superb!

[@darlenecuker9711]

🤣🤣🤣spitting dinosaur! I love this concept, as a beginner, this is excellent. The projects are small enough that even expensive fabric is within reach. The fear of wasting expensive materials with amateur results is what holds me back. Thanks for sharing

[@etainne2001]

every little detail - tiny black buttons, perfect button holes, that amazing pleated collar, just wow

[@KissMyFrog42]

Couple of thoughts: 1. There is NOTHING wrong with you, that is a perfectly natural response to a stiff pleated collar. I'd be worried if you didn't go there. 2. I would love to see the pointy-collared number (I have named her Cruella - you're welcome) with a distressed denim jacket or a leather biker jacket. 3. This just might be my favourite one of your videos so far. Such a fabulous accessory, so many possibilities!

[@drywdanner6896]

Love the pleated collar. Also love the dino impression at the end! 🤣🤣

[@jennifercourtemanche9793]

I read this as making an Edwardian BESTEE and was veeeeeeeeeeery curious.

[@bowerbirdstyle7661]

Beautiful fabrics, buttonholes, and buttons. Love the pleated collar and the black beads.

[@Neppy22]

I think I would enjoy being a 'spitting dinosaur' all day. Don't think I'd get much else done as I would walk up to strangers (after the plague) hissing. Life goals!

[@studious_nonchalance]

O I am here for all the 1910s goodness! Modern tall collar are so disappointing. These give me LIFE. I would absolutely toss you some coin for a pattern!

[@frenetic_muse]

These are all stunning but holy wow that ruffed collar/sheer black blouse combo was everything!

[@elizabethparadine6425]

I've made an 1894 mourning shirt front using a pattern from ageless patterns. The instructions were vague at best but it's rather simple to make and is almost identical to ur vestie my collar is rather short but still standing and it secured around the waist by elastic tapes. I highly recommend their patterns

[@mcomeslast]

Wow! Sounds like a Dickey, often called a modesty blouse in some circles. I have some 1950’s patterns and they are awesome for when a blouse doesn’t cover enough.

[@NicoleRudolph]

The term Dickey actually referred to men's shirt fronts (the stiffened kind) for decades before they were used to refer to womens garments. That seems to move over around mid 20th c. though there is some overlap.

[@mcomeslast]

@@NicoleRudolph thanks! I see them marketed with that term and could never find more info than that. Just that it was an old term. Can’t wait to see some more varieties as these are quite useful with daily clothes as well!

[@lenabreijer1311]

Yes we called them "dickies" in the 60s. It gave a nice layered look without roasting in the office.

[@rebeccacuthbertson1271]

This is EXTRA AF and I am so here for it! Absolutely love Nicole!

[@patchworkivy]

Nice solution to shirts that bulk up back and sleeves of sweater.

[@annae.c.f.2548]

am I the only person who is unable to draft their own patterns and really needs those digitized? they are so gorgeous!

[@karenkavanagh9372]

Oh please do digitize these! Some of us just haven't the patience to do the basic pattern.. then we can create and after being coped up with the Pademic we can go out now.. and look our BEST! And take WOMANHOOD to a whole higher LEVEL !

[@ragnkja]

I can't draw (possibly dysgraphia), so even a single-size pattern would be extremely helpful to get started.

[@999Giustina]

Wow! I've actually tried to buy some modern ones and never could find any I liked. This is awesome! Vestee here I come!

[@magnoliaweathershield443]

Good for sun protection in the summer too, without adding extra layers of clothing.

[@blaise8076]

sometimes I look at costubers and think, why do none of my pieces come out that good? and then I remember I've only had 10 years of off-and-on experience and occasionally think "my drunk sewing machine" would be a great idea

[@mcomeslast]

I was in love with the pleated collar and wondered what it would look like at a lower height. Andrew Gn used it on his cuffs and collars and I immediately thought “I know who taught me to make the pleats”!

[@rejoyce318]

That antique lace vestee is GORgeous.

[@kimberlyrusso2541]

It's always makes me smile to watch you cut out your fabric pieces. It's your pattern weights! It's my 20th anniversary for working with the store and aisle as those washers! So as a treat to myself, I am going to go get some of your "fancy weights"!

[@aliloucreations1817]

Fabulous idea, I remember my Nan having a few of these , as a kid I didn’t have a clue , but ohhh some of both grandmothers clothes I sooo wish I’d kept hold of !

[@frangreene5234]

I enjoy your channel so much!! The gentle noise of your machine, your excitement at a new project, all of it! This may be the solution I didn't know existed for some of my favorite garments. They need a new look, but there is either not enough room for a full blouse, or I don't want the extra warmth of another layer.

[@anna_in_aotearoa3166]

Yes, that one is always intriguing to me! 😏 The noise of Nicole's sewing machine is almost ASMR-ish it its gentility & gentleness, whereas even the quietest machine I could find to buy (as someone who's super-sensitive to sound and vibration) is not exactly something you'd want to listen to for fun! 🤭 I'd love to see her introduce her machine sometime and discover the answer to this mystery...

[@michellecornum5856]

Huzzah to the AGRESSIVE collar!

[@makeda6530]

I saw the thumbnail and just yes. I've been meaning to make something like this when I discovered partlets months ago but this looks wild too, to the 'to make' list it goes.

[@BarbiesRevenge579]

the vampire/pirate vibes of that ruffled collar one is just chef's kiss!!

[@LaineyBug2020]

Imagine making cute little wrist cuff bracelets to either coordinate or match with the collars, just to be extra extra, lol! Oooh, & then wearing both with just a little slip dress & maybe a ribbon corset just for the sake of being risqué... you've given me all sorts of ideas!

[@michellesutton202]

Just loved the vibes the collars send. And your ending statement of "I'm now a spitting dinosaur", had me giggling😂😂

[@merriebusch9401]

Absolutely the best spitting dinosaur ever! Now, I want to be one too. Your videos are not only interesting historically but so very instructive. Thank you for all the extra time and details you put into your channel.

[@MsAngieNightmare]

This is brilliant. Also if you ever feel like doing a video on your everyday style I'm here for it. I'm always in love with your intro looks. You're knowledge of fit and fabrics really shows in your contemporary style.

[@NomadicElfling]

“Your pleats are even if they look even” yesss I’m so glad I’m not the only one who thinks like this! I have to try and let go of my perfectionist tendencies when it comes to pleats and that’s what I keep repeating to myself

[@elfieblue3175]

Thanks for featuring the drafting so prominently. Something like this is more clutter-friendly than, say, a cape. There's a lot of surface competition in my creative space because it's shared with my spouse's ever-expanding Lego creative space. (Beginning to feel like the outer planets in a red giant's solar system.) The shapes are simple enough to not intimidate.

[@anna_in_aotearoa3166]

Crafter vs gamer: it's a race to see who can claim any spare space the fastest!! 😂 Very cool that you both have fun creative stuff that you love to do.

[@celestee.garcia2571]

Totally ravishing!!!! Really makes any old sweater come to life!!!! Nicole is a genius!

[@LetsDanceRedding]

I must make the pleated one and realise my best Cate Blanchett/Wicked Stepmother life.

[@agimagi2158]

I love the third version! That collar is fantastic!

[@FanGyrlX]

Your excitement and creativity are infectious!!!! I've watched this video twice now, and I will probably watch it at least one more time. My sewing plans are being adjusted and I'm trying to figure where I can fit in making myself a few vestees. You're right, so many great possibilities. Thank you for this awesome video!

[@krysil1221]

What a way to encourage me to wear V neck shirt/sweaters again! I actually have some nice linen that would be great!

[@miriamgillham6701]

These three vesties are amazing. So interesting to watch you pattern make them and sew them. My grandmother had a collection of these along with other fabulous items of clothing in her spare room. I wasn’t allowed to touch them but she did show me the amazing collection of accessories that made up her considerable wardrobe that covered from around 1900 right through to the 40s. (She didn’t keep too much after the war years, instead preferring to remake over much of her clothing from then onwards again and again. She was remarkable at up cycling.) I am excited to see someone else who actually appreciates these exquisite pieces enough to sew three of them. They extend a wardrobe of clothes in a very practical way and with a totally stunning aesthetic to match. So loved your ruffled number, my favourite, however they are all just stunning.

[@JoannaLouise200]

Whenever I'd seen these in period dramas or in vintage photos I'd always assumed they were a full blouse underneath! What a clever way to give a garment a completely different look.

[@sandrareed9640]

I love the super soft ruffle-y first one. I can see myself wearing that one the most. Knife pleats terrify me lol but I like how that one "hides" you more (hello introvert here 😄).

[@hinatahyuuga120]

Ahh yes perfect I needed to figure out how to make a collar stand up at these angles!

[@euansmith3699]

Those are wonderful; especially the one with the pleated collar and pairs of buttons. The spitting dinosaur impressed was great too.

[@GDMiller419]

The sheer lewk is my FAVOURITE!

[@tiffanytomasino335]

The vestee really do add a fair bit of pop, I wouldn’t have guessed they were what they are without being told. Thank you for sharing

[@sandiemable]

Very pretty! Perfect for wearing under today's low-cut garments. Did they ever sew on buttons to keep the Vestee from shifting? xoxo's Sandie

[@barbaramorck2933]

Very Nice - thank you for sharing -- the dino @the end was tres amusante.

[@elizabethb913]

Nicole: wonderful video, well researched Me, seeing the thumbnail: vampire collar! vampire collar!

[@carriescostumescrochet]

Love these. Such wonderful ideas and those collars! So dramatic!!!

[@sewathome]

I appreciate how good value your content is Nicole! Not only have you shown something totally new (to me) but you make 3!!! 😁👍

[@lisaheijden9943]

After seeing the reveal I really want some for myself. But initially seeing you draw the pattern I keep envisioning these extraordinary fancy baby bibs for weddings and the like...

[@kathryncoelho2249]

WOW! Those bound buttonholes! 🥰 All of these are beautiful and practical IRL as well as for costuming! Bravo!!

[@PowerToolsnPearls]

Ok. My bad. I never realized what a bad-ass, GORGEOUS creature you are! I’ll be watching this video a few hundred times to see what kind of mess I come up with. 🥰🤣

[@TealCheetah]

You are rockin' all of those!!

[@Tuijjcc]

Thank You! Im a complete amateur and a hand sewer but this would be something I wish to do. Standing collars are not sold in any affordable places. (=none affordable being etsy with stand up collars costing from 200-400. Somewhere there, would make anyone consider to do it by oneself.) I do wish it was easier to do. I just like big collars for looks. When going to some cheap-ship cruises etc. Fancier places. Ur cute and funny. U remind me and my wife, oh her cousin Chantal. Thanks for this tutorial. Ur cutest ”dinosaur face, I’ve seen! 😂” U made my wife giggle!

[@noexpensespentstudios]

Oh no... I think I need to put that pleated collar on some shirts now. What a great way to make more outfits without making more outfits!

[@ah5721]

The ruffley collar is just delicious I would love to have a blouse in style!

[@Hair8Metal8Karen]

I love your excitement here! Although, I am going to have to ask you to slow down... I keep wanting to make things you show me and I already have too many projects to work through!

[@annebeck2208]

I would love, love to see more of the things you have made...maybe one of your lovely history or fabric talks, but some of your own period items used as examples...that would be such a fun way for your clothing to get more air-time!

[@adorothyinkansas4392]

Thank you! You have opened Pandoras Box Of Victorian Dickie's! THE video I didn't even know I needed!

[@asilverfoxintasmania9940]

oh the potential these have! Thank you for sharing! An amazing way to use up those few buttons from the thrift shop that are awesome but you never have enough of to make a shirt or something larger, but with these they become a feature so it doesn't matter!

[@Barblooms]

I love watching your process. It helps to watch someone else drafting, cutting, sewing - and the marvelous outcome. Your details are exquisite.

[@ireneschaffer5507]

Ah! I'm going to be making some of these this summer, and I had been pondering some of the drafting/muslin steps. Thank you so much for spelling everything out so clearly, this video is a delight.

[@kayta84]

Amazing and now I have another project to write on the list...🦖🦖🦖

[@seeingmine]

omg they're all really gorgeous but the third one is like immensely elegant. You did a really amazing job.

[@airroe5068]

So many cool projects have come out of this channel. This is probably my favorite video so far due to amazing energy and lighting!

[@devh6168]

I feel like these would be fantastic under a deeply cut evening/party dress as well, especially in a lace or silk

[@enbyfairyyy]

"I am a spitting dinosaur-- HIIISSSSSSS" 😂 I love your videos in their totality, but the ends are particularly fantastic

[@alega9566]

so schön, ich kann mich nicht entscheiden, welcher mir besser gefällt. Ich denke, ich werde mit den Rüschen beginnen. Vielen Dank für die Inspiration, habe schon viel gelernt von ihnen!

[@quicksilvertears921]

Ok. Wow. I love how great they look for history bounding. I loved the visual surprise of the angled button holes. Perfection 👌

[@Hope-un5wv]

Spitting dinosaur! hahaha. Those vestees are fabulous!