THE BEST HONDA IDLE RESET VIDEO PERIOD!

Is your Honda idling high? Does it stall? Did you recently complete some repairs or disconnect the battery 🔋?
Well you came to the right place!
Ask questions in the comments if we can help you figure it out, we are happy to help!
Thanks for watching
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[@jameelhoosen9137]

Hey dudes Jameel here from sunny South Africa, worked like a charm on my 2014 CRV 2.0 petrol manual , loved Trucker Josh’s commentary… too cute ,take care guys all of the best .Thx a million

[@jdmtechllc6589]

Hello Jameel, we are glad to be of assistance and greatly appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment.

[@ajjones9060]

Worked perfectly on my 2003 element! Thanks

[@jdmtechllc6589]

Glad it helped

[@benstr8156]

Thks! This procedure did the trick!

[@jdmtechllc6589]

Glad it helped!

[@5800]

I have a 2016 Civic 2.0L N/A. I have a K & N cold air intake on the car which has a plastic intake & cone filter, and upon installing it I had countless idle, surging & bogging issues. I had to get a custom tune & it finally worked liked a charm. I recently changed the cone filter with the exact replacement cone filter, and I am now having severe idle issues, & RPM's surging above 3K RPM. And when i really push it, check engine light comes on & car goes into limp mode. I put the base map back on & then the custom tune to no avail. What went wrong? Computer gives potential reasons on what could be wrong, it says either MAP Sensor open or short Circuited, Major Vaccum Leak or vaccum hose broken., but all seems fine & there doesnt seem to be any leak. Oh & i did change the valve cover gasket, and then washed the engine bay to get rid of any excess oil that was there when the gasket was leaking. Car was working fine after, this happened when changing the cone filter to its exact replacmement. Any help would be greatly appreciated

[@jdmtechllc6589]

Did you disconnect the battery during the filter replacement?

[@5800]

@@jdmtechllc6589 Hello, thank you for replying so quickly. yes I took the negative terminal off and changed it. I was told to do so so the idle could reset. Im going to follow your method in this video & hopefully it works

[@jdmtechllc6589]

No sweat, follow up here.

[@viclaz2]

Honda shoul idle at what rpm?

[@jdmtechllc6589]

About 650-700 with ac off

[@definitionXrp]

2013 honda v6 rough idle drives strong as hell still

[@jdmtechllc6589]

Any codes? What have you tried?

[@definitionXrp]

@jdmtechllc6589 I have no codes just notice it's rough and even more rough when turn ac on

[@jdmtechllc6589]

@@definitionXrpis your idle speed normal? I would check the basics like the air filter and housing, the spark plugs, coils, also check for vacuum leaks as a good starting point.

[@_xaxer]

Have you tried cleaning the throttle body of carbon deposits?

[@definitionXrp]

@@_xaxer how do I clean it?

[@ddino2549]

More trucker Josh😎 needed bra

[@morebass6644]

It's the car on the whole time from when you disconnect the battery?

[@jdmtechllc6589]

I turn it off right before reconnecting the battery terminal

[@originalgamefilminggucci6343]

How do I do that my 1995 Honda accord rpm’s are jumping up and down and I remember I took off the air filter and let the engine run having the butterfly exposed and I just put it back in and let it run and it started doing that and trying to drive on it’s on while in drive with my foot on the brake ! Very scary please help

[@jdmtechllc6589]

Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes then follow the procedure in the video exactly as I show it. Do not drive the car as it is, that would be incredibly dangerous.

[@originalgamefilminggucci6343]

@@jdmtechllc6589 I did do that and it’s still the same !

[@originalgamefilminggucci6343]

@@jdmtechllc6589 it’s like it’s stuck in 1rpm when its in drive with foot on the brake .

[@jdmtechllc6589]

Try checking some of these especially the fast idle valve, the cleanliness of the throttle body, and the coolant level, check upper radiator hose for air by squeezing it when the engine is cold. See troubleshooting guide below 👇 and follow up when you’re done. High Idle speed and Fluctuation troubleshooting Leaking EACV- Disconnect EACV connector. Idle speed should decrease. With the connector disconnected block the hole in the intake port or pinch the hose from the air cleaner to the EACV. If the idle speed decreases the valve is leaking. This condition will not set a code. The ECM can only detect an open or short circuit. It also may clog it’s screen if it has one. Leaking IAC- (Idle air control valve) Disconnect IAC connector. Idle speed should decrease. With the connector disconnected, block the hole or pinch the hose to the IAC valve. If the idle speed decreases the valve is leaking. May not set a code and may not be a codeable circuit on all models. TW or ECT sensor- (engine coolant temperature sensor) voltage should be about 3.0 volts @ 60 deg F and between .55 & .7 volts @ normal operating temp. If the voltage is above .8 volts at normal operating temp, will cause rich mixture and high idle speed. May not set a code because it is not far enough out of its operating parameters. **Also this sensor will not read temperature correctly if coolant is low. (beware) Vacuum leaks- a loose vacuum hose or leaking intake manifold gasket can cause high idle speed and/or fluctuation. Also check for bad PCV valve. Fast Idle Valve- (if equipped) a fast idle valve that is sticking can cause high idle speed and fluctuation. Check it by removing the steel cap on the top and putting your finger over the hole in the middle of the seat under the cap or block the port just inside of the throttle body opening, when the Idle is fluctuating or staying high. When the engine is warm this valve should be closed. You can tighten the seat but it will also change the idle speed warm up values (closing). Throttle valve- throttle position sensor voltage should be .5 volts with the throttle closed. Make sure the throttle valve is fully closed and voltage is within spec. ECU-If all else is good, if you reset the ECU and the problem goes away temporarily, the ECU may be defective. Verify that the cooling system is full of coolant and there is no air in it. Remove the air boot from the throttle body and cover the throttle body with something that will stop the airflow (your hand, tape) with the engine running. With the throttle body covered and no air going into the engine, the engine should stall. If the engine does not stall, look for a vacuum leak. With the engine running and the coolant temperature above 90 degrees F, verify that there is no vacuum on the lower port in the throttle body. If it does not lose vacuum, look for a faulty fast idle valve on the bottom of the throttle body, as long as the coolant hose is good and hot. Verify that the base idle screw was not turned way out on the top of the throttle body. If it was, set the base idle and see if the problem still occurs. The upper port in front of the throttle plates feeds the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve and the base idle screw. If the IAC is unplugged and the base idle screw is turned all the way in and there is still airflow through the upper port, check for a stuck open IAC valve.

[@originalgamefilminggucci6343]

@@jdmtechllc6589 so I think I found the problem I’m no expert with cars but I did watch a video of the map sensor that might be the problem so I let the car run still with Rpm’s jumping as soon as I disconnect the map sensor it goes back to normal no rpm’s jumping! Do you think I need to replace the map sensor ?

[@julioalbertosantosgonzalez7286]

Hello, I have a 2014 Honda Accord Sport, I cleaned the throttle body. Then I performed this procedure and while I was accelerating at 3000 revolutions for 5 minutes everything seemed fine, but when I finished and put the car in neutral the revolutions suddenly went up and they went crazy again while I was driving they went up from 1000 to 2000 and so on even in park. I need help, will I have to use a scanner or is there a way to solve it manually?

[@jdmtechllc6589]

What cleaner did you use on the TB?

[@julioalbertosantosgonzalez7286]

carburetor and throttle body cleaner

[@julioalbertosantosgonzalez7286]

When I do the revs thing at 3000 and then let it sit it stays stable at about a thousand. but when I turn it off and turn it back on the revs start to go crazy again and the engine light comes on

[@Mario-st6tj]

@@julioalbertosantosgonzalez7286You found the solution? I’m having the same problem

[@julioalbertosantosgonzalez7286]

@@Mario-st6tj yes, calibrate it with a scanner

[@joehumeas7196]

I cleaned the throttle body and did this relearn procedure. My car now idles at 1,100 RPM. Any tips on how to get it down to 600-800 RPM?

[@jdmtechllc6589]

Are you sure you ran the procedure exactly right? Do you have a plastic intake manifold?

[@joehumeas7196]

@@jdmtechllc6589 I tried the relearn procedure 4 times. I think I need to go to a dealership or find a friend with an expensive scanner/diagnostic tool to do a tps calibration.

[@Midnightplebe]

Same here , and yes I got a plastic intake manifold

[@StiS204MR]

@@Midnightplebesame 😢

[@jdmtechllc6589]

Remove the EVAP and CCV hoses from the plastic intake manifold, PUT A GOOD TIGHT VACUUM CAPS ON THE NIPPLES, DO NOT block you crank case ventilation hose, let it vent to atmosphere, temporarily. Only block where the hoses connect on the manifold. run the procedure again. PUT IT ALL BACK TO NORMAL, then Follow up with me.

[@JoseOrtega-yg2my]

Hola, algún buen amigo que me lo traduzca al español porfa!

[@jdmtechllc6589]

Will try to find a way to do this for you. If you still need help, let me know

[@BigDaddyDanny]

Wait so if the fan runs while I have a 5 min timer going I have to pause my timer and let it run then resume it after it stops?

[@jdmtechllc6589]

Yes

[@BigDaddyDanny]

@@jdmtechllc6589 thanks zaddy 😩

[@jdmtechllc6589]

@@BigDaddyDannyStart off from a cold start, in the morning when its cool out too and you may get through it without your fan kicking on. And you’re welcome…how is your mom doing? 😂

[@freshtelovision3664]

I waited 15 minutes but the fan kept turning on what should I do? Wait longer

[@jdmtechllc6589]

@@freshtelovision3664 Let it cool completely and start over.

[@freshtelovision3664]

I waited 15 minutes but the fan kept turning on what should I do? Wait longer

[@jdmtechllc6589]

Start over Cold engine

[@freshtelovision3664]

@@jdmtechllc6589 ok boss thanks for the reply!

[@freshtelovision3664]

@@jdmtechllc6589 check engine light pops up once I let it idle

[@freshtelovision3664]

P0507🫣

[@jdmtechllc6589]

@@freshtelovision3664 Your problem is not solved, you must fix the root cause of the check engine light first; Only then can the idle settings be properly relearned by the engine computer. Scan the codes and post them here along with the year, model, and trim level.

[@jacobernst776]

Is this for a CRV as well? Also is one of the loads the clock?

[@jdmtechllc6589]

Yes should work for a CR-V Not understanding the clock/loads question, please explain. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@jacobernst776]

@JDM TECH LLC you had described the loads in the video as the radio, A/C, etc. Didn't know if this included the clock and therefore have the fuse disconnected from the video?

[@jdmtechllc6589]

@@jacobernst776 Oh… no just direct physical loads on the engine belt train, or loads which alter the ecm’s state of operation, no fuses need to be pulled.

[@LegionBlacksgamehaven]

Deduct the time from 5 mines to do what. You said it idle for 5 mines and deduct the time. Time from what to do what exactly

[@jdmtechllc6589]

If the cooling fan kicks on, do not count that time towards the five minutes of idle time, you have to wait until the fan stops, then you can continue counting the time toward the 5 minutes

[@theedge5584]

To new....Junk from 2001- 2005