The Best Multimeter Tutorial in The World (How to use & Experiments)

[@dialdude]

Dan, even 8 yrs later, you are still teaching us how to properly and safely use our tools. I have been using meters for many years, but I still learn how to get more for my money, and save time too. Thanks for a great video Dan. New sub here.

[@powerofknowledge7771]

@1:00 Comparison of cheap multi-meter vs expensive one @3:30 Overview of how a multi-meter works @9:25 DC/Voltage : Battery @11:08 Ohm/Resistance/Conductivity : Metallic tape (Note: He said keep everything where it is, but you need to switch it to Ohms. What he meant was, keep the leads plugged in where they are) @15:00 Measuring AC/Voltage: Outlet. @19:40 Continuity: Circuit Board @22:22 Ohm/Resistance: Water/Saltwater @27:33 Continuity AND Ohm/Resistance : Light bulb @34:45 Current AC/Amps : Toaster (10 Amps Setting) (Changing Red Probe to Amps Side) Hope this helps as it was a bit confusing for me to watch as a beginner.

[@Adenya_E]

This was quite helpful. He should just copy as is and paste in the description and credit you. Thanks 🙏🏼

[@notafanboy250]

Thanks! Very helpful.

[@johnstrawb3521]

This video is highly dangerous and has been reported June 3, 2022 to youtube as such.

[@RussellTeapot]

@@johnstrawb3521 Why is it dangerous?

[@garydp9760]

@@johnstrawb3521 Yes, why is it a danger???

[@nadieaqui5576]

I only watched a few minutes and I noticed that you did not warn people that when checking AC voltage on a wall outlet, you should insert the neutral lead (black) first in order to avoid having live current on the other (red) lead. Maybe you mentioned it later, but I think that the safety warning should be the first thing that is mentioned. It also can't hurt to warn people that an improperly wired AC outlet could have the neutral and hot cables reversed, so they need to be careful with the leads regardless of how they are inserted.

[@kellismith4329]

Yes this is more common that you think, ac does have a “polarity” and if reversed can be unsafe and also cause gremlins in an electronic circuit - I have a 3 prong plug tester (they are cheap) that I can plug into receptacles that show neutral/ground faults

[@michaelathens953]

I should think anyone who would drop $400 on a multimeter would probably know that already

[@hyoutdoors7054]

Later he said you should put the hot lead up your nose, so yeah he has safety covered.

[@qzr0jt]

Be certain to first use a voltage sensor on the ac outlet to determine if the "polarity" is proper or reversed.

[@JaysonJason-u9b]

​@@qzr0jt hmmmmm, that's something I don't know

[@julianlafreniere2449]

Thank you for making this video! It has been such a pain to find a video that takes you through what a multimeters features are and how to use it in different ways.

[@carmell71]

Thanks, you probably saved my life! Replaced a kitchen outlet today & my circuit breaker labels are faded. I went to ACE hardware & got a Gardner Bender for $18. I had no idea how to use it. On the setting of 200, it showed a dead reading. I switched it to 500 & sure enough... 128 volts. The title of this video is correct! :)

[@climaconaya9153]

You are not ashamed in your self , you use the word THE BEST in the world.

[@sreilhac]

Thank you for this video, you are articulate and clear and just the right amount of safety warnings, this is an awesome start to working with meters! at 41 minutes I came in thinking I was never going to make it through, and yet breezed through the entire thing. Now subscribed and looking forward to more content.

[@sextempiric7137]

Articulate? WTF? This is most annoying speaker I ever heard. After 2:09 I stopped watching do to cramped stomach. He just can't finish the sentence without starting another one in the middle of the previous. Maybe he did show something, but I'm not gonna see it. Best tutorial in the world, hahahhahah. I bet you're his alter ego.

[@seraglioborneo2803]

I live in India and have a Triplett Corp 2200, Taiwan make, multimeter bot 25+ years ago. This was inherited from my late dad. Still going strong. Has ACv, DCv, current, capacitance, resistance, test NPN/ PNP. The 9v box battery lasts 2+ years. The cost was R 200 = $ 5 then I also have a M-830BZ Var Tech made in HK?. Bought 20+ years ago and costing $ 5. All the above functions + a test of continuity Both are in excellent condition. If you are careful to select the right range for the test and don't drop them, they last for ever! You should do a video comparing brands like others do for screwdrivers, torque wrenches, etc. One show for US brands and one for rest of the world!

[@sundayuba6108]

I am a self-taught electronics enthusiast and many of the stuff covered resonates with what I have done. I have handled separate meters and analog multi meters including the bulky VTMM like the RCA WV 98C. I will welcome tutorials on fault tracings

[@frankdavidson9675]

i dont recall ever finding a fault by measering amps ---if you voltage and restance correct amps take care of them selvs LOL

[@commonsenseisdeadin2024]

switch the leads, the craftsman will read exactly the same as the fluke all day. the continuity test you should mention that if it is static like the first time then you need better leads. Salt water test leads are down on the bottom and on top. Yes it doesn't automatically choose the range for you, well perfect time to learn what the decimal placement is representing and learn what you are working with. Should always know what you are working with and the equipment you are using. It is a great in-depth video I applaud you for that. Your video auto played when i was looking up a function on my Bluetooth meter and just let it play out. Hands down the fluke is more user friendly and it better for that price, My craftsman that's exactly the same is going strong that I've had for a better part of 10 years as a auto mechanic, car audio installer and amplifier repair, I've blown the fuse many of times but she's still ticking. Which is a thing to note as well, there is quick blow fuses in multimeters to protect itself and you as well. Whenever dealing with high current it is smart practice to only use one hand to terminate the connection, It takes but 0.1 amp to kill you however that 0.1 amp needs to make it across your heart, with 1 hand you do not become part of the circuit nearly as easy. good tutorial, I just feel it is heavily biased towards fluke, with the hash tag and all as well which is unfair especially on a tutorial.

[@timothya2742]

You just saved me a whole lot of typing.

[@commonsenseisdeadin2024]

@@timothya2742 you're welcome... I have plenty of time, I got you! Haha

[@garyf8229]

Besides auto ranging, one of the big differences between economy meters and high end meters like Fluke is Tru-RMS capacity. Cheap meters are only capable of accurately reading AC voltages in the 50- 60 Hz range. Tru-RMS meters will pick up AC voltage of any frequency. Additionally a frequency counter in the meter will be able to identify what the predominant Hz. is. While a modest meter is Adequate for most handymen, trained and skilled electricians and engineers will always reach for the expensive meters especially when dealing with complex power quality issues.

[@jimmypea2207]

Buy the best and expect a lot is my rule.

[@frankdavidson9675]

@@jimmypea2207 most home owners dont need the best to check batt. or find an open on the lawm mower i have used meters all my adult life built my first (analog meter ) in 1965 from a kit vac tubes used for years most tble. shooting is 90% man 10% meter you have to under stand a ckt to fix it there again most home owners aren to ckt reading i am 87 now still use my little cheapo meter weekly batt. checking etc i was a repairman for 31 yrs retired 2087 those little harbor frieght 7-8 $ meters are good for training

[@jumper233]

@@jimmypea2207 buy once cry once is mine

[@stevet710]

Used this video as the basis to check two fuses in an RV refrigerator circuit board. One was blown, one good. Replaced the blown one and my fridge was cooling my beer again. All in all, a good day.

[@suzannebarrette8784]

excellent. learned SO much. thank you for your precision. right to the point without useless comments, camera work excellent. you are a great teacher!

[@lexwells4763]

This is probably the best multimeter video online.

[@squeakycleannnn]

From the first few "best multimeter tutorial" videos this actually stands out, easy to follow, simple yet entertaining, adding experiments is brilliant idea, thank you.

[@julianp2868]

Hi not sure if you still monitor this post I'm testing a Samsung battery which is supposed to produce 3.8 V Li-ion 7.22 Wh I'm getting 2.78 @ DCV 20? Do I now understand the reading to be 2 thirds output.

[@tompbmt]

Thank you for the info. I'm a professional handyman and was embarrassingly ignorant as to all the different functions and uses of my multimeter (same craftsman) also am convinced to upgrade to a better unit. Very informative and greatly appreciated

[@jcoverpass]

Excellent tutorial and demonstration of differences between process meters and it’s great that you had fun with it. Very good balance of information and entertainment.

[@rayford21]

FYI: The reason a digital voltmeter reading tends to wander around its display is because the input AC voltage to it contains "transients" caused by switching, motor brushes in appliances, and tries to read these transients, which are quick and random, combining them with the reading desired, It does this due to the high sensitivity of DVM circuitry. This is especially true in a commercial and industrial environment. This is why many electricians also have an analog meter (the kind with a moving needle meter) to measure primary voltages, An analog meter does not have the sensitivity to be able to detect small transients, hence the reading remains more stable on the needle display, They both have their uses depending on application, the DVM preferred for critical measurements of transient free circuits and the analog meter for low impedance (primary power) circuits. They both have their places in electrical work.

[@mezmerizer0266]

Yeah, it's also alternating current. So, ya know, not a steady supply of power.

[@kellismith4329]

My fluke 77 is nearing 34 yrs of use, never a hiccup has had a 9v battery replaced once in all that time

[@charlesalexanderthackray1021]

I run a 179 but out of sentimental value recently repaired my dads 77 which was his first digital meter 30+ years ago bought with the grey rubber case, cleaned the switch contacts also while in bits re soldered a few dry looking joints, had it calibrated, there bomb proof

[@achristian7015]

At 1:45, you might not "damage" the meter, but you do have to know that the AMPS setting does have a "fuse" and it is best to start with the highest setting. Even then, if the current you want to measure is too high, you might also blow the fuse at the highest setting. BTW, it is best to have some spare fuses. They are generally 5 x 20 mm in size but it is best to check what you have installed.

[@myztikalphantom0121]

thanks for the tip

[@oldawg8643]

Very practical video...both products have their respective uses. I don't need a Fluke and now I know why...I was thinking of buying one. Thanks Daniel

[@pietnieuwets259]

Hi Dan, there is much more important reason not to combine current measurement and V/diode/R in the same connector. Putting such meter in current measurement results in a low resistance set-up (to be able to measure currrent). If you measure, accidently, in that set-up the mains voltage, you short circuit the mains. A connector for V/diode/R only, provides you with a high resistance mesurement circuit in any set-up.

[@samwillard5688]

HAHA! I did that the other day. Cheap meter blew up in my hand. No fuse, just a piece of wire jumper inside. Live and learn!

[@bobbylibertini]

I accidentally left the red lead plugged into the 10A terminal on my $5 Harbor Freight meter when I went to test the voltage in a 120V outlet.... Amazingly, not only did it not destroy the meter, but it didn't even blow the fuse. It did however burnt-out one of the lead wires...so I had to buy a $7 set of new leads for a $5 meter.... Thanks for mentioning the part about the resistance (so it doesn't trip the breaker), I had never considered that. but now that you mentioned it, it seems so obvious.

[@tarekgagigi3097]

Thank you. You are clear as the sun light. Profissional .

[@seandempsey9396]

On the AC voltage mesourment you should always use the highest range and work down, this is because although you supply is 110v it will actually be anything between 95v and 140v if you test at different outlets you can see that you can have different readings, this is normal here in the UK we operate at 240V ac supply but that fluctuates any were between 230 and 250 v . The the outlet closest to the bracker box the test the outlet therthest away from the bracker box and you will see the one therthest away will have a lower voltage

[@plasticbugs6697]

P

[@jonhamilton8247]

I have a fluke 87 V multimeter. I’ve had it for 15 years it has been the most expensive meter I’ve ever owned roughly $300,00 and yet the cheapest because it works absolutely flawlessly, day after day every single day. You do get what you pay for with a Fluke. It may not be for everyone but if you can afford it get it.

[@NoahSpurrier]

The 25.6 VAC that you read on the off circuit near 19 minutes is likely due to capacitive coupling with a nearby circuit. The total power it is able to deliver this way is very low. It is barely able to power your night light. Measure the voltage drop when you put a significant load across it (such as a 10 Watt light bulb). A modern DMM has super high impedance across the probes. It can measure voltages while drawing almost no power, so it can easily find ghost voltages that will disappear as soon as any significant load was puts. Still it's good to be sure before proceeding. I once measured 48VAC across the metal frame of a power supply I was working on. I assumed it was some problem with a long ground lead or something getting coupled with secondary of the transformer. So I grabbed the frame for a better look. 48 VAC hurts when it has a good source of current behind it! It turned out that an unused secondary tap on the transformer was shorted out with the frame of power supply and the frame of the power supply was not properly earth grounded.

[@thomasdeltoro8030]

Noah Spurrier

[@VegaChastain]

Wow so you didn't trust your volt meter, eh? That sounds like it smarted... wow

[@NoahSpurrier]

Talk Nerdy To Me I trusted it. I believed the values I just assumed that the 48 VAC I saw on a DC power supply didn't have any power behind it. I figured it must have been some capacitive coupling and that it couldn't really provide much terms of overall power. I wrongly assumed, as it turns out.

[@lunabenoit2790]

Noah Spurrier s

[@dorothybingham7549]

Noah Spurrier

[@matthewderry1728]

What if I want to test the voltage and amps in a lightning ⚡ bolt? What would I set the multimeter at if I was going to test a lightning bolt and what I need to use a Craftsman like you did or a fluke or what to get an accurate reading? Also do I wear welding gloves or will it be ok to use oven mitts?

[@timesachanging6273]

I recommend owning both meters. If you own a fluke you lend out the craftsman. Twice I had coworkers borrow and smoke my meters.

[@carloschaparro07]

That's why the "No" word was invented.

[@matttanglewood2522]

​@Frankie Bleddyn What ridiculous crap are you talking. $200 - $ 400 (U.S. currency) meter is a nice bit of change to lose. $13K for a meter?? An electrical meter? We are talking meters, not scopes, not computer aided diagostic tools.

[@imateapot51]

@Frankie Bleddyn I get your point. My niece 's friend wanted to borrow my chainsaw to remove some bushes. I lent it to them but also lent myself to make sure they did now blow the engine and get injured using it. I watched this video because I picked up a free snow thrower that does not have spark. I want to check the ignition coil but I am clueless with anything electric. I have a bunch of cheap multireaders my late brother got. Trying to learn how to use them. They are Cen-tech.

[@Chad-ski]

Great video. Your wall socket test is very interesting. Other videos on KZbin suggest you don’t use a multimeter to check an appliance is off (dead). They suggest a 2 probe voltage tester, because a multimeter is more complicated and can be accidentally misused. But as you show the multimeter shows 25.6 volts on a faulty wall socket that a 2 probe voltage tester wouldn’t find.

[@originalmetalhead73]

I've used multimeters for years, but you taught me something today. Thanks

[@rkahiwalani451]

It's very SALTY!!! Thank you for this. Very informative for an older women who needs to learn about these things!

[@felixcat4346]

On the AC voltage test the cheap DMM should have shown the correct voltage on the 200 volt range. You could measure on both the ranges. The Sears meter was defective and should have been returned.

[@keithooo123]

I have that exact craftsman and it worked at 600 and 200 volts for me. I tested it.

[@LennyCooke636]

Well done video. No Ahs or Ums and memory gaps. Well spoken and fluid.

[@mmfenske1]

Great video. One question...at about 10:00 in the video you are testing a 1.5 volt battery. With the Fluke tester it showed 1.27 volts and with the Craftsman tester it showed 1.61 volts. Why the big difference? Which is correct? Please advise. Thanks

[@wingerrrrrrrrr]

He didn't have the negative probe connected properly to the battery, so the reading was just going through his fingers, which was touching the battery. Using probes with the shrouded tips are meant for probing things where you need to avoid shorting across nearby objects, but using them requires more care in making the connection when just trying to press it against the battery.

[@makato1955]

Had a craftsman just like that. The voltage regulator on the generator went bad. The tell tail at substation said 18000 volts went thru it. All i had left was the rubber case. Glad i had the clips on it.

[@rameeti]

Switching probes on a multimeter is not a problem. What the user has to understand is that a chain is as strong as its weakest link. If a user uses a lesser class probe on a higher class current reading meter, the are subject to the limitations of current rating of the probe. While a meter might handle a high current load, a cheap probe might not. It is important to understand when and when not to use different probes.

[@charlesbradley7277]

hi ,very good info but i would like to know how to test for broken wiring in a car

[@FRANKSBESEK]

Very well done Daniel. You kept it informative and interesting. You threw a great learning curve into it. Thank you and stay well.

[@ronniemire4025]

Wow Thanks for the Tutorial, I just bought my new multimeter and the settings aren't clear, but you explain in such a way I can figure it out. Very Nice Video!!

[@hlathaung368]

Thanks Dan, this is the best multimeter tutorial video I ever watched! Thanks for your time for making such an awesome video!

[@michaeleverest3487]

Good video. For a homeowner or someone starting out as an electrician, I'd probably recommend they get the Fluke T5-600 or T5-1000 instead of an inexpensive multimeter. The multimeter becomes more handy when you begin taking on troubleshooting of more advanced things beyond household outlets/wiring. Unless you're doing some bench electronics and require the multimeter for testing capacitors, diodes, low currents, etc...

[@vladnickul]

LOL

[@michaeleverest3487]

@@vladnickul ?

[@vladnickul]

@@michaeleverest3487 You did just recommend a multimeter worth what? 200-300 usd? unit brymen voltcraft hioky tenma and who know how many brands make multimeters PERFECT for a electronics hobbyist, and more then adequate for a "homeowner" not at half the price but just at 20-30 usd. You just don't need a Mercedes to drive around the block .

[@danimal4you]

T5-1000? I've never heard of that terminator before...

[@GeorgeRuffner-iy7bm]

LOL! 👾

[@SkyWire88]

Just a note: The top pair of contacts (N. O.) are rarely, if ever, connected in any way with the bottom pair (N.C.). I guess it's a good idea to check them to make sure. This was/is an extremely good video on the different uses of your average Digital voltmeter (sometimes called a digital VOM ; Volt-Ohm Meter, or, DMM) Very good tips included. Well thought out in advance.

[@SherwoodSchwartz123]

Didn't start with the intention of watching in entirety, but so much good info. Thanks.

[@jasonbrown467]

the fluke showed the c batter as 1.27v, the craftsman showed it to be 1.6v. .3volts is a significant different for a "c" battery. so what was that about?

[@keithkerr7321]

@3:45 in the video you suggest setting the multimeter on Ohms to check the resistance of a battery. This is not recommended way to measure the internal resistance of a battery. As the multimeter generates it's own voltage from an internal battery to test the object's resistance. A battery with any charge could blow the internal fuse of the multimeter should the battery resistance be tested as suggested.

[@khinners]

Very well done, thank you. Also, excellent warning about dangers of amperage.

[@lukeluke281]

Just brought a used multimeter from the flea market for $10. works like a charm!!!

[@maurig6403]

COUSIN Matt Was PLAYING WITH PROCSIDE IN THE FIRST ROUND 3DOLLARS ON THE WAY TO HIS FINAL HOME GAME AT 2A 2IN AND A FEW 22YEARS FROM BEHIND HIM ON IT BUT IT WAS JUST ONE OF THEM TO SEE IT

[@3207ROVER]

Switching the meter to the resistance (Ohms) range and trying to "measure the resistance of a battery" is one of the best ways to fry the precision resisters. You DO NOT use a VOM to measure the resistance of a battery you measure the EMF (voltage) across the source or the current drain of the circuit and calculate the resistance using Ohm's Law. Otherwise you burnout the meter eliminating the meters ability to measure resistance or (possibly, depending on the voltage present) anything else. The Fluke might have sophisticated circuitry to protect misusing the meter but not a $10.00 meter. The way you measure the resistance of a circuit is with power OFF and ALL capacitors discharged. Switching leads can reduce the accuracy. Leads are married to one brand of meter.

[@samjohn1754]

An appropriately explained 'Caution' before measuring 'Current' was well done.

[@qfksspecial7866]

The reason the 10A scale has a separate probe terminal is to avoid putting a mechanical switch in the high current path, because the current will pass through a very low resistance (say, 0.1 ohm), and a mechanical switch may introduce inconsistent resistance and lead to inaccurate measurement. It would also require a very beefy mechanical switch.

[@myztikalphantom0121]

hello are u okay???

[@leopoldogonzalez8068]

Very informative. I worked with volt meters for 44 years, and this taught me a little more. Thanks

[@kishorkumarboro4885]

Perhaps the best multimeter tutorial. Enjoyed a lot☺️☺️

[@Mista808]

I'm a grown ass 37 year old man and I literally feel cool after using my new multi meter to test a couple double a batteries 🤣 If I never bothered spending 20 years composing/writing music I would've surely looked into becoming an electrician.

[@onefixitman]

19:14 25.5v more than likely an induced voltage. If you had an old Simpson with analog meter movement and you had same voltage even if you switched scales then the voltage is real. If the voltage changes as scale changes then the voltage is induced. I hope this helps. Not enough space to get into electrical theory to explain induced voltage. Good video.

[@larandpat81]

Perhaps the best multimeter tutorial. Enjoyed a lot ,Thank You

[@airwolf269]

You should always double check your meter settings (Knob is selected to what your testing) And triple check it if someone else is working with you. 20 years ago i was working in a Live 600v panel trouble shooting a machine. I was testing the voltage across the lines when i went to engage a Hydraulic pump my buddy checked the line fuse i replaced laying on the floor. When i came back i again checked the voltage across the lines. Last thing i remember was a brite white light. The meter blow up in my hands from 480v that my buddy turned the meter to continuity to test the line fuse on the floor and my stupid mistake that almost killed me from not proper checking my meter before testing even if it was what i was doing before. The probes melted in my hands and blow a hole in my right shoe. 12 hours later i had welders burn in my eyes. Spent 3 hours in hospital hooked to a EKG to make sure my heart was fine. The Simpson meter was totally destroyed and melted.

[@rogueninja1685]

This comment is why I'm 3 weeks into basic electronics training before even getting into the weeds with a multimeter tutorial. 3 weeks ago, I would have had no idea, continuity could blow up a meter and like the video goes over a few times, sometimes you fiddle with settings to get the desired reading maybe due to impatience. Thanks for reinforcing my over abundance of caution before even getting started. It's clear we have to know EXACTLY what we're doing before flipping switches on a meter while touching probes to stuff

[@IRgEEK]

Thanks for sharing this informational in an entertaining and creative way. I enjoyed it and learned a lot.

[@williamray3117]

It was a good video and I've learned a lot I will watch it again several more times to make sure I understand it

[@samuelschacht5630]

The guy in this video isn't using insulated gloves and has the probes of the multimeter in the wrong holes of the outlet. Red probe is supposed to go on the right side black one on the left. Make sure you do more research than just watching youtube videos, just to make sure when you watch a youtube video you can tell if the guy knows what he is doing.

[@comdot987]

@@samuelschacht5630 Hear, hear...

[@PurityVendetta]

It's all horses for courses. The most important thing is to understand the tool you're using and it's limitations. I use all sorts. AVO Mk8's for some in circuit testing and high voltage shunts if it's convenient. My Fluke for household electrics and some electronic repairs and cheap DMMs of various pedigrees for throwing in the car for simple tests like continuity. It all comes down to understanding the job and what you're hoping to achieve. Be safe, that's the most important rule.

[@MattyMind]

One thing I have learned over the years is to always check for power each time no matter what even with the cheaper stick tester as one time I was working on a multi family home and I shut off the hole power to the 2nd floor and was take out an old light and putting in new fans and as I was taking it off something touched and blew up in my face turned out the wiring was all fucked up and someone was messing with the boxes in the basement and made it so the 1st floor was paying for the 2nd floors bedroom light. So after that I always check for power each time no matter what even if thar doesn't happen someone could come in and no know you shout it off to work and turn it back on and that's why you should always have red tape on you to.

[@kellismith4329]

Yes, a good habit is to check power and polarity first as a habit

[@RickL_was_here]

Always check the specific device you are working on with a volt tick.

[@davidcappaert8740]

New to multimeters. Watched 5 or 6 videos previous to this one. Learned and understood more here than all others combined. Thanks, great presentation.

[@ginnywhite4253]

What a great teaching video...I will watch it again just to get it all down pat. Thanks!

[@bryanswilik651]

I don't even know what the symbols on the multi-meter mean and would really appreciate a video on how to use one for dummies. I need to know how to check fuses like a/c fuses on central a/c units to car fuses and sensors. I thank you for your knowlege and time you put into this video but I don't even know the basic's on reading a m.meter let a lone the terminology used by electricians, but I did learn a few things from your video and gave it a big thumbs up !

[@agwhitaker]

17:24 Didn't you say something about not switching leads between meters ?

[@robertb7254]

Dan: Thank you…I have a Fluke 72 I use for basic measurements ….I’m always keen to learn new ways to use it…..I love videos like this …..so freakin helpful….the other day I removed a motor from a Dyson Floor Vacuum …trying to check the motor I tested ..one lead the entering the motor and one lead on the wire exiting the motor …it did beep showing the current cycle thru it but is the impedance check actually the correct one to see if the motor is fried or not?

[@axslinger99]

Wow, the 200 VAC range clearly should have worked. Huge design flaw.

[@rangerhellekson8062]

Excellent tutorial. Quick and precise instruction.

[@Sloxx701]

18:31 Ghost voltage. Pretty common in house wiring. Multi-meters with a "Low Z" range can account for this when taking measurements.

[@itluis2009]

Agree with ghost voltage This kid definitely needs more training about how to use a meter or AC electrical courses

[@docferringer]

The Fluke 117 has the LoZ function AND a built-in Volt-Alert function, so you can quickly check the wall/circuit you are about to work on for live wires. Sure any multimeter can tell you if a circuit is live, but being able to wave it across a wall without setting up leads and probing is a nice convenience feature.

[@stevewinwood3674]

what is this ghost voltage you speak of?

[@docferringer]

@@stevewinwood3674 It's the electromagnetic residue left behind by poltergeists. Also transient voltages caused by cross-talk between wires, improper grounding, bad wiring, and leaky components. But mainly the poltergeist thing.

[@steveloyd5637]

That could be a half switched plug .. Couldn't neutral carry voltage if some other appliance on the same circuit is using voltage?

[@peterc504]

If you were measuring a 12v 8 D battery would you jus click the red MM up to 20v at the 10 min mark? Also when using the red one where does the dial need to be for testing household 110V outlet?

[@andrewryder3075]

Good intro to DMMs, (although maybe not "The Best Multimeter Tutorial in The World"); you neglected to mention 3 OF THE MOST IMPORTANT DIFFERENCES between a high-quality meter (like a Fluke, BK, or Agilent) and a "cheapie", namely: 1) Readings per second - a good meter will typically deliver a reading in under 300 mS, as opposed to the 450-600 mS of a cheap one. 2) True RMS readings (of AC voltages) - a good meter will actually integrate complex waveforms, whereas a cheap meter will often show peak-to-peak (or at best, pk-pk ÷ .707, which is accurate for sine waves only). ...and... 3) Accuracy - high quality meters are typically accurate to better than 1% - (typically, 0.5% or 0.3%, w/ ±1 or 2 last digit), whereas the $10 specials are often at about 2 or 3% accuracy and (±3-5 at the last digit). Just sayin'

[@qfksspecial7866]

What about impedance?

[@henkiejong1136]

Is there any way to calibrate or check an Ohms meter if it’s accurate.??

[@berndeckenfels]

You should mention that it is dangerous to keep the multimeter in Amp setting or turn the knop over amp (or ohms) Range. It is bad practice to connect anything before you picked the right range.

[@qfksspecial7866]

Even worse to keep the probe in the 10A plug because not only is it essentially a short between the two probes, it doesn't not matter what the setting dial is set to. So if you accidentally leave the probe in 10A, then set the dial to AC V to measure an outlet's voltage, you will blow the fuse in the meter.

[@carliemorgan1871]

@@qfksspecial7866 depends on the rating of the fuse. Most are raited for that type of voltage.

[@AriannaEuryaleMusic]

Wow! 5 years since my comment on this video I totally forgot, I was actually surprised to see my comment. many things have happened since then... Anyway, as I said I love Electronics but I´m not an Engineer nor I work anything related to fixing things but I fix stuff sometimes and I got a YOKOGAWA 7544, it´s so awesome and well build, I travel a lot and I always bring it with me all the time along with my Laptop.

[@rkstr9965]

Nonsense - You are NOT able to use the OHM's function of a DMM to measure the "internal resistance" of a battery (time=3:47).

[@frequencydrive]

Hahaha you are right! Holy shit he should know better. You can't measure the internal resistance of a battery with your meter. Hell I had to do a formal project in my electrical engineering circuit analysis class that had us determine the internal resistance of a battery. Maybe he is just a Devry or ITT graduate. We all know those schools produce unqualified graduates. Thanks for pointing that out I had to watch the video at 3:47 just to make sure he really did say that.

[@vannarintan9134]

frequencydrive

[@tyereksmith8946]

Rk Str he obviously made a mistake guys

[@AlleroedAutoophug]

Thank You - that saved me 40 minutes of my life.

[@nedcramdon1306]

Ha. DeVry. I was young and dumb.

[@joelp3562]

Thanks for this.. I have the red multimeter and learned a lot about how to use it, in particular testing a 12v battery! Thanks!!

[@karljakobsen4256]

Thank you for your inputs and demo, good information, I will forward and share the link to my very special friend in Denmark. If this knowledge from this video.....dealing with electricity and safety is applied- it could very easy become a cooking show to yourself and to the multimeters you are using

[@maurig6403]

What Some Matter what ABOUT PABLO'S NAME IS 3NOT BUT SHE HAS THE ABILITY FOR A GOOD ONE TO BE THE FIRST

[@jameskoralewski1006]

All that the speaker button on a fluke meter does is turn on the audible beep to tell you when the meter detects 0 ohms of resistance so you don't have to look at the meter to know when the meter leads detect 0 ohms of resistance. The resistance readout still works normally and continues to read out the value of the resistance being measured.

[@jacobramirez4586]

This is a great video, I couldn't have explained it better.. I can practically smell the toast. Kudos.

[@SATLFRENCH]

As an industrial electrician, I have to say: thank you for your awesome video, even if I know a lot of stuff about electricity, it's a very helpful way to learn technical English. Thank you too for taking the time to do it.

[@shawn7913]

I thought your last demonstration on current was good. Now I understand how a multimeter measures current.

[@bigpapi3636]

Thanks for the excellent video. You saved me $100 or so buying a $10 Elike meter as opposed to a Fluke. Obviously I'm a beginner.

[@bobgreene2892]

Dan, you emphasized no more than 30 seconds usage for AC current through the (grey) 10A fused connector, yet ran the toaster for 93 continuous seconds at 6.75+ Amps AC. And, despite your warning about unreliability of foreign-made meters (presumably certified through a local authorityi), you ran that test on the cheaper Craftsman meter. At least, that tells us you have a great deal of confidence in that meter function-- however dangerously deceptive the Craftsman's AC voltage reading at "200A" might be. We realize you made this video five years ago-- it would be good to update the video with all you have learned since then.

[@scott09900]

Excellent tutorial with very interesting examples.

[@The52brandon]

For the record. The continuity test you mentioned is a great indicator. But for leads. Not the actual meter. I got a cheaper (but not crap) crampmeter that had static on the continuity test. Replaced it with a pair of Probe Master 8000 leads, and the difference was incredible. Many mfrs cut corners to lower prices, and the probes are often near the top of the casualty list. An upgrade there can make a $40 meter perform like a $100+ meter

[@galehess6676]

fluke leads on even a cen tech $10 can work very well, but get the darn leads, yours ARE crap after a week or so, giving bad incorrect readings. get flukes

[@Michoacan517]

Testing AC voltage with the Craftsman: I have the same model and did not have the same problem with the 200 volt setting showing 0.0v. Yours may have a dirty switch or it’s damaged internally.

[@Juan-wj3vk]

Thank you for taking the time to give us this tutorial.

[@wezogarcia6251]

Excuse me sir, if you said not to change the probes on the multimeters due to possible imprepoer readings, why did you change them when measuring voltage at the plug? (minute 18:00)

[@The52brandon]

If I can make a suggestion (as someone with something like a dozen scopes/DMMs), try them all with nice leads as well. Adding nice leads (I got mine from ProbeMaster personally) improved performance on every single meter/scope I own

[@K2teknik.]

I doubt that nice leads add improved performance, they can add a more nice feel to the operation the thing, that's it, you may in some cases get a slightly better/faster connectivity with other leads that the supplied ones.

[@The52brandon]

You can doubt whatever you like. People doubt the earth is round. But I've personally compared a variety of meters with a variety of leads, and that is 100% the case. I didn't expect an $18 pair of test leads to do much (if anything) either. But they do. If you're looking to improve your meter's performance and can't afford a Fluke, it's a solid option. But if you'd rather just "doubt" something that someone personally experienced based on how you imagine it would play out, that's on you. Won't affect my life in the slightest either way

[@K2teknik.]

@@The52brandon I do have a few Fluke meters, and some more budget ones, and quality leads too, but there is not much difference, your meter do not show 5% off because of the leads you use, it may matter in one case and that is connectivity/ohm measurement, something about how easy you get a good connection, but in many cases you can just clean your standard lead and they are fine. But for sure good quality leads is a nice thing to have, but to state that it have a significant impact on your meters performance is to oversell the leads.

[@The52brandon]

Just to clarify one thing beforehand in case there's any misunderstanding, I don't work for Probemaster (or any company involved in meter/scope production/sales). But as someone that builds their own circuits often, I use the continuity checker often and the good leads do make a real difference with that. The cheap included ones gave a tone with a lot of static most of the time, but on occasion there was no tone at all. But then when I used the good leads, I'd get a crisp clear tone every time. If I was just trying to illustrate how useful aftermarket leads could be, I'd have gone on about their modular leads with the huge variety of probes tips they have. But I'm not gonna try to convince people to spend more on their leads than they spent on their meter. But I'll try to make a video soon that shows what I'm talking about

[@wingerrrrrrrrr]

That may be more a difference between defective vs cheap test leads. Quality silicone jacketed test leads make a big difference in satisfaction of use, but if the cheap one reads open on continuity, it probably has a broken wire connection, maybe brought about by the cheap quality.

[@alexandersheridan2179]

Between 17:30 and 17:40, you switched between the two models, but switched the black and red cables, from the left to right sockets. I have no electrical knowledge, but I recently watched a video showing the danger of reversing the probes. In that video it seemed that, if they are reversed, one immediately becomes live, and can arc and possibly electrocute someone. Any guidance is appreciated.

[@peteg8528]

Phenomenal video. Very informative. And the salt water drink was hilarious. Thank you!

[@davidbartley989]

Good overview but not a fair comparison. The Craftsman 82141 is a consumer-grade meter, costing about $25-$30, not $10 unless it's a closeout price. I've used this exact meter for 10 years with home projects and hobby use and it works fine. The Fluke is a professional meter. It too is fine - easier to use, faster reading but it costs upwards of $150. If you need one everyday, get the Fluke. If not the Craftsman or others at its price point are perfectly fine.

[@ScottioWilson]

Thanks for alot of useful info here but that Craftman meter was defective in the AC line voltage test. Consider revising that for the safety sake of newbies.

[@markharvey8780]

I have the same Craftsman 82141 meter and have used it for several years. I don't know what's going on with Daniel's meter but mine reads AC volts correctly when set to either the 200v or 600v range. I took a pic of it to illustrate but can't put it on here.

[@grantlam9247]

You are awesome dude!!! Thank you a lots

[@IR240474]

Thanks for this vid! I am testing everything around me !!

[@garylewis3641]

I was curious why the toaster plug is double clipped, did you have to do that? Good video!

[@joebanks3827]

At 10 minutes you tested a 1.5 V battery with each device. You got a reading of 1.3 v with one and 1.6 with the other, yet didn't explain why there was this difference, and also what that meant as far as the health of the battery is concerned.

[@K2teknik.]

He do explain it, but not very good, and not all explain about a topic is in one place, he seems to be jumping around here and there and it is a bit messy, this is not "The Best Multimeter Tutorial in The World", it is not even good.

[@VFRrider]

@@K2teknik. It not even accurate..!

[@koningklootzak7788]

So the title is inaccurate. This shit video can't be the best.

[@DoverDanny]

Thank you, you’ve helped clarify a few things while I’m learning

[@michlgilbertclements6178]

NO, you do not use a DMM to test the internal resistance of a battery, or put a ohmeter on any power source!

[@elyzium]

Why

[@johngiam]

Think you use a impedance meter like the hioki bt3554

[@markmaisy4858]

Thank you, an education for me as not at all clued up on electronics and my recent purchase of a cheap multimeter left me thinking wtf did I buy this for? Can't justify a "fluke" as only using to test solar circuits. So video a great help