The Best Rust Protection for Cast Iron: No Protection?

Surprising results from an accidental experiment.

[@NyanaCore]

As a metallurgical engineer, I can say that you are on the right track. Rust occurs preferentially at the intersection of grain boundaries, where surface energies are highest. It will propagate outward on the surface from these sites. However, with a highly polished surface, you effectively reduce the exposed surface area of these boundaries, and thus reduce the potential for rust to occur.

[@bobduck51]

I liked the way you handled the haters. I read some of their comments on an earlier vid. Haters always gotta hate. I almost always ignore negative comments anyway. Keep the good info coming. I subscribed.👍

[@NextLevelCarpentry]

Controversial AND interesting! Very curious to learn what you think of the Collinite after it's time tested. I'm currently a Johnson's Paste Wax devotee but your presentation of Collinite makes me think it a viable alternative. Thanks for posting such reasonable content! Best, Matt

[@1pcfred]

Johnson paste wax works for me. As far as polishing metal goes it is well known that a polished metal surface is more rust inhibitive than a rougher surface. Imagine magnifying the surface of metal. It will not appear flat. All of that up and down is more surface area. So the smoother you can make it the less surface area air has with the metal. Oxidization occurs on the outer layer. So the less outer layer you have the less chance there is for rust to take hold on metal. Plus contaminants have more purchase on a rougher surface. Contaminants can trap moisture and also contribute ions or alkali to the rusting process. Dirty metal just rusts faster.

[@SteepedinLightPhotography]

Thanks for both the update and for the observations on rust & potential prevention through polish. I’ve got a mini-mill that I had written off due to bad base rust. I’ll write back after I’ve given it the “Franklin Treatment” (“Franklinized?”) in an effort to revive it. This should be interesting....

[@Richard-wk9le]

This will sound strange but years ago I learned to paint chrome bumpers on the backside because steel or cast iron is porous so 1st paint/seal the bottom or underneath and sides and than seal the surface, whats happening is the moisture is wicking up from the unprotected surfaces.

[@charlesreohr6236]

I don't know about anybody else, but I just got learned.

[@frederickburns1739]

I have been using tools the majority of my life. My father in law worked at the third largest machine shop on the East coast; I learned a lot from him about metals. There's low and high grade cast iron; the best being ductile cast. I'm by no means a metallurgist but for your bandsaw to have rust pits in that short period of time I'd say thats a very low quality of cast. And yes as a wood butcher I know saw dust attracks moisture rapidly.

[@blakeloke5586]

Thanks for the follow-up to your previous video. I'm in the Houston area and struggle with maintaining my cast iron table tops rust free. Please keep us posted in the coming weeks as you monitor the progress of your experiment. If I monitor and keep a coating of WD, Boeshield, Blaster (or whatever) I'm able to keep the tables rust free. But, as you mention, that's a pain and I'm not that diligent about doing so and if I'm not in the shop for a few days I still get a slight film of corrosion starting. One thing that seems to work is I've draped heavy canvass over a "tent" like frame that I fashioned from 2x4's over my table saw and jointer (same with the bandsaw but no need to make a frame). This seems to work very well if I'm going to be away from the shop for more than a week or more. In the winter, I do the same but put a drop light under the "tent" on top of the table. Next experiment for me is to use heat tape attached to the underside of the cast iron tables to keep the tops warmer than whatever ambient temperature my shop is at. This would be in conjunction with the canvass tents.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

My reality is that (and I hate this about myself) I look at horizontal surfaces as storage devices. If I put a tarp on any of my tools, that would mean I'd have to find somewhere to put the stuff that's on it. That's where reality sets in - it's just not going to happen. All of this would be a moot point if I were diligent. Paste wax would work just fine - if I was diligent. But I'm not, so I'm trying to find a better way.

[@swkohnle08]

My workshop is my unheated garage, while I have chosen to use only hand tools, no table saws or other power tools, my hand planes are all restored Stanley bench planes and hand saws are old Disston panel saws and dovetail saws, along with chisels and other hand tools for woodworking. I keep my tools tuned and sharp and have done all the restoration myself. I have been using Johnson’s Paste Wax but I find that I have to rewax often to keep rust at bay. I appreciate your suggestions and will consider looking at some of the products you and others have suggested. Thanks.

[@thecurmudgeon5241]

My shop is in a non climate controlled building in south Louisiana, so I feel your humidity pain. I thank you for your approach to managing this problem and your willingness to share your findings. I'll be following your findings with interest.

[@bobbyhunt100]

Interesting video and I know you are on the money with the very fine finish. As a part time knifemaker, I know that one of the first things I learned was that ALL steel will rust, even "stainless" but the best insurance is a super fine finish and a high polish so the corrosion doesn't have much to grab on to. Oh, and don't leave your knife sitting in wet iron filings! Thanks and cheers from Australia!

[@lehcim777]

I also have neglected my band saw and table saw to the point I'm searching KZbin for a fix.I will definitely try tour ideas. Thank you for the insights.

[@jdwilliams5244]

Thank you for sharing. I have a Ridgid table saw, which they quit making because the cheep cast iron table turns to rush over night. I have tried many things to stop the rusting. It seems keeping it clean and buffed with a car body buffer has worked best.

[@brucematthews6417]

For many years I've relied on basic Johnson's floor wax for protecting my cast iron machine tables in the wood shop. It's never let me down yet. But it IS a fragile coating and wears away quickly. I also used automotive wax on some polished aluminium bicycle parts that saw LOTS of wet commuting weather. The aluminium held it's finish well for a good four years between repeat waxings with the same automotive stuff (it was long ago so don't ask which it was). So it's no surprise to me that this harder automotive wax is looking like it will be a good answer to both protecting the machine tables as well as providing a slippery surface for a lot longer than the Johnson's.

[@fleatie8615]

Loctite makes Navel Jelly Rust Dissoler, it works fantastic. After I use that, I follow with a scotch brite pad on my palm sander. Naval Jelly says to apply and wait 10-15 min and do a small section at a time, only wait about 8-10 min. Then it says to rinse with water. You cant really do that with a table saw and electricity, so I use a small tub of water and a bunch of paper towels to wipe off the Naval Jelly, then when all the Jelly is off I wipe dry with dry paper towels. I have used this on an old jointer I bought an a newer table saw I just recently got, it wasnt rusty just had some stains, As far as a rust protectant, I am gonna try Frog Lube paste. I have used it on guns and door hinges with great luck.Its a process correctly applying Frog Lube Paste but I think it might work. Keep making stuff!

[@zall1321]

The 5 second explanation is reduced surface area for reaction with the moisture in the air.

[@cwadub]

Loving the videos on this subject plz keep them coming. While in Alaska now and high humidity isn't much of a problem I've been polishing my cast iron tabletops to 2000 grit and finding the same results - no rust for about 2 years now.

[@MartyGerman]

I like your approach to this ... we have more than humidity to rust our cast tools in CT! For several years they’ve been spraying a white, milky liquid on our roads before snow storms. I believe it is Calcium salt of some form. It does eliminate most ice on the roads but unfortunately, when the weather forecast is wrong, it ends up being air born! I’ve noted it rusted out ALL of the galvanized guard rails which have had to be replaced twice in the past 6 years and it is also rusting all of the steel that supports our bridges, too! And, oh yes, all of my cast iron tools in my barn are rusting. I like the idea that smoothing the tool surface stops or at least, reduces the rusting. My guess is that it’s like stropping my tools ... removing the microscopic burrs that likely would be the first to rust? I’m old so, I remember pure US Steel, before it became automobiles that were then crushed and resold to foreign car companies that would mix it with lower quality iron and sell cars that ‘looked good’ when purchased but would ultimately rust away, more rapidly than the Detroit made vehicles. Back in 1973, my first car was a 1956 Dodge Coronet that was still, then, rust free! My point is that all steel isn’t created alike. Recycling sounds great when it comes to lowering costs but you do get what you paid for. So, I don’t think it is just about the grade of the steel, unless grading includes the source? Keep up the great videos! I enjoy them and this topic does matter a lot to me ... I’ll bet your old Craftsman (I sure wish I’d held onto mine!) was made using great US Steel ore. Cheers!

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

I'm very curious about this. As far as I know, country of origin doesn't factor in, but I know different countries have different ways of rating things. I'd think that the factory would have to meet the the manufacturer's specs, regardless of where it originated. I'm familiar with the term "chinese pot metal," but I don't think anything that poorly made applies here. It seems to me it would have to meet some kind of standard. Almost all the heavy tools are made in China or Taiwan now. So you really think the ore itself makes that much of a difference? Seems there is a lot of refinement that has to go on before it becomes a consumer product, but that's just me not knowing anything about it. I'd love to learn.

[@1pcfred]

@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 iron ore lore is the stuff of myth and legend. The Iron Age is what put our species on the map. Find out what the Iron Pillar of Delhi is. Which is a famous bizarre object when it comes to iron and oxidization. Ore quality has a large bearing on smelted metal quality. Traditionally in the west Swedish iron ore has been considered to be the best. When Germany wants iron ore they talk to the Swedes.

[@danielhansen533]

Very interesting. I have some Lie Neilsen mortise chisels I experimented with. I had this feeling to polish the steel to resist rusting. I took it down to about 120 grit, then up the diamond stones to 8000, then up to 16000 in water stones, then a leather strop with green diamond paste (I believe that is on par with a 30k shapton glass water stones) 2 years later, it is the only chisel that I don't have to clean rust spots off of. It is in the same sealed container as my hand planes and in the same tool roll as other chisels. Some tiny spots overtime, never that one mortise chisel. I've since asked my family to save every silica packet and give them to me. I cut holes in a large aspirin bottle and packed it just under half full. I did that a few times over and now none of my iron planes or steel chisels rust. That's so much easier to do, but that shiny chisel sure is pretty and fun to use.

[@greenmoss]

A friend of mine Harry and his friend Roy both made identical copies of a very rare antique clock. They are both master-craftsmen and completed their identical clocks. As the years went by Roy's clock tarnished whilst Harry's clock remained polished and bright. Roy told me that Harry's clock remained polished because he was able to sharpen all of his metal cutting tools to a much finer finish. This relates to your cast iron bed also.

[@rs71355]

Great info on rust, how is the bandsaw top doing from the sanding method. I will be getting a new bandsaw in a few days and would like to treat it before using it and just was wondering about well the sanding of it has held up. Thank you for these videos, they are a great help.

[@nlo114]

Boiled linseed-oil worked wonderfully for our forefathers, and still does well today. Rub down and alcohol-wipe the surface, then wipe on the oil. Burnish to a clean finish. This will last for ages. High tannin woods will make your machinery rust, so wipe the sawdust off every day. Don't store rags impregnated with linseed oil, they will self-combust and burn your shop down. Put them outside to dry off, then burn or bury.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

One of the drawbacks for boiled linseed oil on furniture projects is that it offers little to no moisture vapor protection and has little resistance to abrasion. I'm wondering how it would be any better on metal. Granted, I think that oil of any kind is probably better than nothing, but I'd need to see some research on the cast iron / linseed oil connection. And, please forgive me if this sounds snarky but I really don't know any other way to say it than with an analogy, but horse drawn carts worked well for our fore-fathers. Apologies! I don't mean that as an insult. I just have faith in humanity in that over the last 200 years we have to have come up with something better. You forgive me?

[@paulsmessyworkshop]

Rob, that looks like really good wax. I am curious to see just how well it works over time. I am glad to know you are a proud member of the messy workshop association. Thanks for the information.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

Thanks Paul. You can't hide everything with creative camera angles. The truth must come out.

[@ALWhiteAuthor]

Polishing steel is an amazing rust preventative if it's polished to a high enough grit. There have been katanas pulled out of the ocean around Japan that dated back to the feudal period. The craftsmen polished them to such a high grit, upwards of 30,000, that they had almost no rust on them. It was really quite remarkable.

[@1pcfred]

Seawater is the universal solvent. So I'm going to have to call BS on your claims there. Seawater can even dissolve gold. What seawater can do to ferrous metals isn't even funny. Polish, or no polish. We have stainless steel phone booths here and they rot out just being next to the sea. Stain less != stain proof. It just stains less.

[@gaylanlee6447]

Thanks again for sharing your research. Look forward to seeing the results on both your band saw and table saw.

[@mikegaydos3114]

I moved from Colorado to Tampa and I've been using Johnsons paste wax , it doesn't work that well so I ordered some collinite to see how that goes and plan on sanding to 2000 the weekend . thanks for the video

[@timothyhood2827]

I just got done applying Fluid Film as you suggested and though I don't begrudge that effort because my table certainly needed cleaning and maintenance (fortunately it had extremely little rust anywhere) but it certainly didn't have a slick top either. I does now and for that I thank you. But now...I guess I have to try Collinite just to seem how permanent it really is...but maybe I'll wait to get another update from you first! Thanks, good set of videos!

[@MrBishbashbosh2012]

Really like how you did this video, normally I get bored with voice over videos but not yours, well done 👍 I’m subscribed!

[@johnaurand4090]

I know what you mean about trying to keep a clean shop. I don't know how all these people on KZbin keep them clean I can't unless all I do is clean. Thanks for the information it's helpful down here in Florida.

[@christobar]

Watching this last night inspired me to resurface my sawstop table saw! worked from 80 grit up to 1000 using simple green as a lubricant, and then after cleaning it with acetone I sprayed a liberal coat of boeshield on it. We'll see how it holds up.

[@SavageDarkness]

I can attest that the ultra-high polish works as East Texas humidity rivals Georgia's. For $200 I bought an old Delta 34-410 Contractors saw which, while not having a bunch of real rust on the top, it had a TON of tarnish, as if someone set it in black oxide. In any case, wood did not exactly slide across it. Me being me, I started at 60 grit and worked up to 5000 using 3M automotive sandpaper. That top now likely looks better than it did since it left the cast. But it also has yet to tarnish, much less rust. I also do not know the science behind it, but logically, I think it has to do with minimizing the porous surface of low sheen cast iron allowing moisture to sink further down than a surface with a high sheen. This, I think, means that moisture more or less sits on the surface and evaporates before oxidation has a chance to get very far. that is my theory, at least.

[@SouthernGinger]

Nice video Rob, love to know more about these!

[@davidmarusa9833]

I have been thinking about this video for a week now and I think I have another conclusion. Assuming you polish bare steel the same way I do, with a honing compound, I think it may be the wax used to suspend the compound that is filing the pores and leaving a thin layer of protection.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

Never thought of that. But do you think it would last almost two years? I may clean it with xylene and see what happens.

[@RobertSmith-zn5zc]

Good morning. I tried the fluid film yesterday and I'm blown away at the slipper y finish it leaves. Thanks for the wisdom. My shop's usually a mess too.

[@henryrossouw930]

Very intersting. My table saw and jointer and other cast iron keep on rusting- cause of little maintenance :) Will try your fine grid paper.

[@befmx31]

This past weekend I just treated my tablesaw, bandsaw and jointer with the Fluid Film. We'll see what happens. I am in North Florida.

[@thewoodshop69]

Got to try it for myself. Thanks

[@mikeherbst1825]

I haven't used this in a while but I used to use TR3. It's like an automotive surface treatment that cotains Teflon. It makes for a very slippery finish. Just my 2 cents worth.

[@jimmylovesbikes]

I find this soooo interesting. Thank you for sharing.

[@guitarchitectural]

Wow, 1 week for the bandsaw... I had no idea rust could set in so quickly. I keep a dehumidifier in my shop (in canada, with hot humid summers) and keep it just above zero in winter... and i have no rust on anything after several years using boeshield. I consider myself very lucky when compared to what you have to put up with!!

[@joegillitzer6239]

We have a lot of humidity here in Wisconsin so this is very helpful!

[@RPGWoodworking]

new subscriber here...have you tried wd-40 white lithium grease? if you have and i missed it, disregard. i still haven't made my way through all your vids. i just picked some up the other day and was curious about it for my cast iron table saw. maybe i'll give it a go and let you know what i find out.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

Ugh! I'm scared of anything that says "grease," although I'm ignorant on the subject. Much of the reading I've done says that if it comes off on your fingers, it will definitely contaminate the wood. My worry with lithium grease, is that it may not "harden" and will stay liquid to do its protective function. All that is just my brain speaking, and most of my brain is empty. If you have any opinions on the subject, I'd like to hear them.

[@jakecarter2414]

Awesome video man, I'm excited to see how long the new wax last. What part of georgia are you from? I'm from georgia myself.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

Just north of the ATL

[@jakecarter2414]

@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 I live in hart county Ga. Lake hartwell.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

@@jakecarter2414 Beautiful country up there.

[@jakecarter2414]

@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 yes sir, it is!

[@arthurchenoweth7897]

Fifty years ago, regular applications of talc( aka baby powder or soapstone) was recommended by Powermatic. Their iron rivaled the best mirrors. Then.

[@bruceao]

I live in Panamà "right" beside a surf beach, so I am guessing my humidity is at least what you endure but we also have a "LOT" of salt mist rolling over the house/shop. I am following closely.

[@na2305]

What if you clear coated the cast iron top with automotive paint "clear coat"? Not the cheap clear coat they sell at parts stores but the quality clear coat that has the hardener built into the can.

[@earljtharp]

I’ve had this same thing happen to my band saw table. I polished when it was new just because I thought it would look cool. It has stayed polished for 4 years. I never realized it was polishing it that did the trick. I just thought it must have been a really good band saw. It’s a Ricoh 18 inch.

[@ChaosWoodDesigns]

So in a month or so when my new bandsaw finally arrives, you're saying I should polish instead of burying it under wet wood? Madness!

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

Crazy!

[@rendel5024]

Nice, it's a shame a lot of these products aren't available downunder

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

That is bad. Surely there are things there that aren't available to us?

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

Scott O'Keeffe 1 hour ago In Australia use a similar product called Lanotec. Works really well.

[@jpdominator]

I love this. Trying to care for a tablesaw is new to me.

[@paulkubin]

The internet is chockablock full of untested opinions. Kudos/thanks to you for actually testing some.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

I will continue! Thank you sir!

[@sergetheapprentice3236]

Hey Franklin thumbs up my man thumbs up your learning have a good day from Montreal P.S I am just a hold carpenter and furniture maker and everything else

[@alyeskapeteakapete2798]

Black iron pipe is not cast iron. It is mild steel and is formed by rolling.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

You may be right, although the place I bought the pipe sells steel and iron pipe. However, the corrosion issue is very similar with both. I will continue the research and try to determine which kind of pipe I have. Thanks for pointing it out.

[@walterrider9600]

thank you . i used a spray Teflon back in the mid 70's on a small drill press vice still no rust on it . sadly i do not remember what it was .

[@magicdaveable]

My cast iron frying pans look like they have been nickel plated. The reality is that they have been polished all the way to a 5000 grit mirror finish. They are very easy to clean and if I heat one up before adding some butter or bacon fat, nothing sticks and they do not rust. I just did one for a decoration to hang on the wall. When it didn't rust I completed the entire pan. Now I only have 18 more pans to polish.

[@mkgg9637]

I think you gave that troll too much credit by repeating the bs that your shop is too dirty in your vid. Screw the trolls, they don't deserve having their thoughts repeated

[@davesatosky5840]

you should set up an amazon affiliate page thing, id like to buy this to test/try/use/whatever but would also like you to receive credit for my purchase

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

I'm looking into that. But I'd want to be careful about recommending things I'm experimenting with. I would whole-heartedly endorse fluid film, so there's that, but there also may something better out there. The Collinite is looking good, but I don't want to get ahead of myself on that.

[@davesatosky5840]

@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 i purchased it anyway as im curious, my shop is climate controlled and usually i use johnsons but it doesn't last long enough, smells terrible, and isn't that slick. I just put this collinite on my saw and man is it slick, im anxious to see how durable it is. You scared me about letting it dry to long so i think i buffed it off too quickly lol

[@terristroh3965]

If only we had something like a hover saw then this cast iron protection issue would be moot for us all.

[@24revealer]

A piece of cardboard works to keep rust off machines too. I think it stop the moisture in the air.

[@GnosticNinja]

Pipe used for Gas is *not* even close to cast iron. If it was it would crack when you hit it with a hammer. Polish yes, but I follow up with automotive paste wax to protect from mosture.

[@steventhibodeau841]

how did the collinite polish hold up????

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

So far, so good. I've had it on my saw now for several months without a re-coat and still no rust. It will lose its slickness over time, but the protection seems to be VERY long-lasting.

[@michaelhines1891]

My solution is simple...im cheap...so is my table saw with an aluminum top. One day though I will buy myself a cast iron one!

[@woodandwheelz]

As far as I know, my father and grandfather never wax or polished their tool table tops. I've inherited some of these tools as well. The band saw has zero rust on the table, the planner/jointer has zero rust and the drill press from the 30's, well, it has other issues but the table surfaces have turned black but little to no rust. The only thing that had rust on it was the 1960's Craftsman table saw that I had in storage for way too long. The top was more than just orange-red. I sanded it down to a mostly shiny surface, it has swirls in it that I can only assume were placed there by the manufacturer, up to 220 grit. Even in the miter slots. Then the table saw sat for 2 month before I could get to using it (also in GA, near ATL) and still no rust. I haven't done anything to it other than sand and clean with mineral spirits until the paper towel stayed white. I'm very curious about your findings and am going to stay tuned. Oh, my dad did get me into the habit of cleaning tools (i.e. removing saw dust and wiping grease and oil off of wrenches) and putting them away after use. I enjoy watching your videos and learning from them. I had already subscribed and rang the bell a while ago and I'm here to stay. Thank you.

[@1pcfred]

Sanding is barbarism. But that's what most lazy idiots do. What you're supposed to do is clean the cast iron by hand with steel wool and a petroleum product. Then clean that off with an organic solvent. I bought a table saw used that had bright orange rust on the top. I gave it the massage treatment and today it is squeaky clean and I can still see the factory mill marks on it. Which may be the swirls you are referring to? Saw tops are fly cut. I've seen some Blanchard ground too. Here is a Lilliputian running one of those vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/images/6951-A.jpg

[@woodandwheelz]

@@1pcfred There is no hard written rule as to how to clean up a rusty table saw top. I sought out professional help and researched several sources before tackling the task of cleaning the top of my table saw. Everyone, and I mean everyone, recommended sanding. Not one recommended doing your way. But, that's how you did yours and I'm not going to call you an idiot for doing it the hard way. Maybe yours was not as deep rusted as mine. Maybe yours was only surface rust and that was all that you needed to do. But again I'm not going to resort to make calling because I disagree with your method. No, I'm not going to do that. Because I'm not you.

[@1pcfred]

@@woodandwheelz woo you consulted with professional rust removers, did you? Where did you find these captains of industry? Skid row? Can I look this service up in the Yellow Pages? What is it listed under? Me, I just researched the topic on the net myself. The arguments I found against sanding were pretty compelling too. You're right you're not like me. You're too full of shit. Admit it you came up with the brilliant idea of sanding all on your own. Being on the wrong side of right you're in no position to call me an idiot. Now do some real in depth research about cleaning cast iron machinery. I have to warn you though you will run into a lot of fools sanding or using wire wheels. Keep digging. The steel wool and oil ( I actually used a witches brew combination of oil, WD-40, mineral spirits, and a rust penetrant [PB Blaster]) slurry deep massage method is the way to fly. It yields a clean surface with no loss of the sound base material. It took me maybe an hour to clean the top of my saw. The material I did not abrade away will last a lifetime too. This is what my saw looked like before I started cleaning it i.imgur.com/jjOer.jpg Here it is cleaned up i.imgur.com/avkT1.jpg I don't have a recent picture of it. That saw is in an outfeed table now with a DIY fence (Biesemeyer clone) and a magnetic motor switch. I like push button operation.

[@woodandwheelz]

@@1pcfred Apparently you want the glory of being self correct and belittling others. So you can have the floor. Spew away.

[@1pcfred]

@@woodandwheelz I'm trying to help you. But I can see you'd rather wallow in your own feces. So carry on.

[@DuncanEdwards.]

Very interesting find, hope it works

[@DennisMathias]

On your pipe handle, could it be the oil from your hands is a protectant. You would not get this benefit on the table saw.

[@raysmith1992]

Interesting, I use machine wax which I apply using 0000 grade wire wool, thanks for the video

[@befmx31]

Oh, I subscribed by the way.

[@hardnox6655]

Good stuff. I've used Johnson's forever with great results but reapply often. I've used a variety of high-end car waxes and had poor results Would love to know how long Collonite Wax holds up.

[@1pcfred]

Many car waxes contain silicone which tends to cause issues trying to finish wood. So their use is not recommended.

[@hardnox6655]

@@1pcfred Agreed and point well taken. Most of my timber was rough-sawn so it wasn't an issue. I have stuck with the Johnson's for that reason plus it holds up well.

[@Thomasroehl]

....it sounds like a good idea 😉

[@brosselot1]

I'm going to try this with my bandsaw table. Very good information New subscriber

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

The Collinite, the Fluid Film, or the polishing? So far, so good on all three for me. Let me know how it works out for you.

[@LDhusky]

Interesting