The Best Tools for Peeling Poles - FHC Q & A

[@geelee1977]

I've been trying to crack the code on this for years. Thank you Pa Mac!!

[@mlauntube]

I've been peeling longleaf pine and sweet gums with a draw knife and also with a scraper just like IB-sorin was using. I find the draw knife a better tool, but also harder work. When I used the scraper, I was using it the opposite as Pa Mac with the wedge of the blade having the more aggressive attack angle. So I tried again both ways and found that some time one way works better, then some times flipping it over works better. In my opinion, the most important factor is having the log at the best working height. For me, that was putting on two short logs that lay on the ground and I made "V" notches to prevent movement. I also learned that If I change my seating position and sit on the peeled section of the pine log, I can later wander around in public with sap all over my bottom for the amusement of the general public.

[@lawrencehp1]

Thanks Pa Mac. Always informative.

[@tolbaszy8067]

What about an actual bark spud? I have several different styles with various blade designs and handle lengths. Another garden tool that works good for peeling bark is a flat spade with a "D" handle. Some have a slightly curved blade that follows the log. It is also helpful to raise the log if possible to ease the back strain. Thanks for sharing!

[@TheCajunHomestead]

Love your channel. During the late 1960s early 1970s we had a Sawmill where had contract to cut crossties, and provide creosoted pine fence post. We had two 55 gallon barrels welded together end to end buried in the ground at a angle with creosote in it to treat the post. We peeled the pine post with a garden hoe that the neck had been heated and straightened. Worked awesome for many years.

[@SaintCoemgen]

I am the type that uses what I have. And for peeling poles I only have a draw knife and Grandpa's clamp. This is how I do it. 1) Place two poles parallel to each other on the ground. These are the ground poles. 2) Place on top a third pole to be peeled perpendicular to the two from step 1. This is the peel pole. 3) Straddle the peel pole, sit on it, and clamp it with my legs (Grandpa's clamp). Start peeling with the draw knife. Move down the pole as needed. Reverse direction at the other end. 4) As needed when one side is peeled, simply roll the peel pole on the ground poles to give a new side to peel. Return to step 3. To make things more comfortable, especially on skinny poles, a folded towel to sit on is suggested. 🙂 Hope this helps.

[@jamesrochon2195]

Love me some Pa Mac

[@LitoGeorge]

I started blacksmithing about 4 months ago in a club. The fifth thing I made was a barkspud. Took a really thick truck spring, drawed it out by a lot of hammering (make it thinner and thus lighter), put a curve lengthwise using a swage (like the original spring shape), and then also from the short side to the short side (the face of it) using a swage again - to follow the natural curvature of a tree. Cut a hook in the back end - a la Swedish style - and welded a circular piece of pipe which I tapered beforehand as a handle. Put an edge on the front using a grinding belt, and then an edge all along the left side too in case I need to slice off bark in pieces.The old timers at the club loved it. It is so strong, it will last 500+ years. And it takes off bark off a pole, as easy as slicing bread, maybe easier. Tell those blacksmiths to put their perfectionist ego aside, this is a super easy project.

[@olddawgdreaming5715]

Love the Q&A's that you are doing Pa, logical questions and great answers given. Thanks for sharing the fun you have around there too. Fred.

[@farmhandscompanion]

I'm so glad you're enjoyin' it, Fred. Thanks as always for watchin'

[@motownXJdad9565]

cut your poles and peel them in the early spring when the sap is running in the trees, thats easiest time to peel the bark off.

[@deborahdanhauer8525]

Very interesting! Thanks❤️🤗🐝

[@Mynx5050]

Cool thanks!❤

[@CleaveMountaineering]

Last winter at work I got to peel about 10 Siberian Elm tree trunks. Now they're in an Orangutan exhibit at a zoo. Most of the bark was quite stubborn I think being elm, and in the winter. Since we're keeping the good branches, I had to peel into crotches and concavities as well. I used the drawknife for most of the work. For thick bark I used the axe to get it started. In the crotches and concavities I used the axe holding at the head, and also a cheap import barking spud. The spud was more like a large chisel (slick). Because of the concavities, I ground the back a little convex, and ground a curve on the edge profile, then sharpened it like a chisel. For my task, I found frequent sharpening quite helpful (touch up every half hour or so), though on easier to peel trees it may be less necessary.

[@MarkWYoung-ky4uc]

Excellent video Pa. I'm always looking out for old tools and have found some great ones.

[@floridaknight3052]

I use a ball peen hammer to remove bark. It works the best imo. Whack the ball side all over the trunk to crush and loosen the bark and then flip the hammer over to whack off the crushed bark. I usually do it in a seated position.

[@douglasvantassel8098]

Great video, thanks for making these.

[@farmhandscompanion]

You're welcome, Douglas. Thank you for watchin'

[@matthewalvey4760]

I love using a draw knife, but you have to get your poles off the ground to make it easier. If you can get them up on saw horses, and quick-tie them with a rope so they don't move on you, they peel real quick with a good draw knife. It is one of my favorite tools. I work mostly with hardwoods - oak, hickory, maple and the like. I have no idea how good it woks on conifers. Love your videos.

[@farmhandscompanion]

Good word, Matthew. Thanks so much for watchin' and commentin'

[@phillyfathead]

Very interesting!

[@TheRedneckprepper]

TY

[@rochrich1223]

For some of your smaller and tastier poles, goats, mules and the occasional horse will strip bark as something of a hobby. I'd be careful not giving the horse and mule too much at a time. The goats seem to know how not to eat themselves sick and are cheaper than a horse anyway.

[@PatrickKQ4HBD]

Lettin' the animals do work for you!

[@ashleyanderson2859]

From what I have heard a big factor in peeling poles is when it is done. The way to remember the best time is any month that has an "R" in it. I have yet to peel any myself so I am far from having the facts on this. Just something I thought might be helpful and an interesting experiment.

[@farmhandscompanion]

What a coincidence; that's when you get your nanny goats bred, too!

[@ashleyanderson2859]

@@farmhandscompanion I learned something new today. I don't have goats but I always like to learn new things.

[@Maggie-Gardener-Maker]

I sure enjoyed this video thanks for doing one on this subject. I have some trees I took down about a year ago that I have had stacked on a concrete slab except for a few smaller diameter ones that I used as posts in my garden to hold up some trellis wire. I left the bark on them out of laziness on my part. I bought a cheap curved draw knife last year but haven't tried it, I think I need to build that sawbuck stand to use it efficiently and I got so many other projects going on my homestead that one has been on backburner mostly because I can't decide what to build that would work best for me that would be dual purpose to shave bark from pole as well as cut up some wood to the woodburner this winter. I've seen lots of videos on youtube but can't decide. Do you have an opinion? I searched your videos but didn't find any on that subject, a sawbuck to build that is.

[@farmhandscompanion]

Yes, Maggie, there is a style of sawbuck that I've arrived at that's fairly easy to build and comes apart nicely for storage. Until I can demonstrate that one, though, I would recommend you buildin' one that is as simple as possible. In fact, the simplest thing I can think of is to take 3 small poles, each about 4 feet in length and tie or wire them together teepee style. You can lay one end of a pole to be peeled on top of the teepee for easy peeling. Then, if you made a second teepee, you can lay firewood poles across the top of both teepees to buck up your firewood. Thanks for watchin', and I hope that helps.

[@Maggie-Gardener-Maker]

@@farmhandscompanion thank you, do you think that would be stable enough to use while debarking a pole with a draw knife?

[@farmhandscompanion]

It should be stable enough...providin' your poles are stout (4 inch diameter is good) and your wire holding 'em together is heavy gauge enough and well tied or twisted. With all that in place, the weight of the pole bein' peeled and your bearin' down on it should make the whole teepee even stronger.@@Maggie-Gardener-Maker

[@Maggie-Gardener-Maker]

@@farmhandscompanion thank you

[@LitoGeorge]

At 1:09 one can see what I believe are some very large countersinks (auger style). If that is correct, where did you get those beauties from? I need some that big.

[@farmhandscompanion]

Just blessed enough to fine 'em in the bottom of some box I bought at an auction. Just come borrow mine, LitoGeorge.

[@LitoGeorge]

@@farmhandscompanion I'd love to PaMac. Wish we were neighbours. However, a few thousand miles separate us, so I'll have to reserve that for wishful thinking for now. I appreciate your kind offer - I actually felt it was genuine. I'll keep an eye out. All the best to you, LG

[@marcwilson1052]

Let the poles sit a while. Bark will eventually get to the point you can peel by hand.

[@MNZGA57]

Thankyou. Why dont people just leave the logs alone and let them shed their bark over a couple of years as the wood dries out? I notice that my felled trees shed their own bark and then theres loose bark thats mostly easy to peel off with gloved hands. Just patience is required for this lazy style method.

[@JustinHitt]

Because insects will eat up under the bark and damage the wood. Letting the bark dry off only works in certain climates, conditions, and types of trees. Stripping and proper drying is best practice.

[@adamwallace8082]

I like your new intro!