The Biggest Kept Secret in Damp-Proofing (damp walls fixed in mere hours)

Do you want to know the biggest secret in damp-proofing?
It can be done in less than a day with the system we are about to show you.
This system is set to revolutionize the way damp-proofing is carried out in future and smash the old methods into touch.
For more information please visit our website and subscribe to our channel.
www.alldrydampproofing.com

[@opentrail]

Thanks for demo'ing Simon. I respect there is more than one way to sort out damp proofing.

[@robtatum5277]

Not really There is the correct way & this way

[@constructionsecrets6048]

THANKS FOR THE VID. I TRIED THIS METHOD ABOUT 10 YEARS AGO. A YEAR LATER, THE PLASTER BOARD SEPARATED VERY SLIGHTLY FROM THE WALL. I HAVE NOW COME WITH A 100% BETTER WAY OF DOING IT. PS BEEN IN THIS TRADE FOR OVER 30 YEARS.

[@dampsam]

Tye Nawaz that’s great, the system works if done correctly and drygrip will not separate from a wall once stuck, in fact if you try pull the plasterboard off that next day the plasterboard will break and the dot will be still fixed to the masonry ( if fixed correctly)

[@constructionsecrets6048]

thanks for reply. i'll try that drygrip adhesive next time a get one of those jobs.

[@SC-hk6ui]

Great video thank you. We totally agree about the capillary action and salt treatment. Thank you please post more.

[@dampsam]

Simon Cole thank you so much for the comments, it’s nice to know people like what we are doing and it has a small place on here. 👍

[@jimmyzoom1143]

no one else does, it was even on QI rising damp dont exist

[@michaelbanfield7987]

yeah right!!!! use lime mortar on old properties and lime asters lower levels outside french drain if needed and never use injection da.p proofing, it's a con!!!!

[@dampsam]

Won’t be buying you a scrabble set for Christmas 🎄

[@vwtransportersandmotorcycl3729]

@@dampsam 😂

[@rachelbailey-no2pp]

@michaelbanfield7987 Lime mortar should be used on all properties whether new build or old. The property can breath with lime mortar. Alot of builders just use sand & cement mortar on top of old lime mortar without preparing thoroughly. It's all about cutting corners and getting the work finished as quickly as possible before moving on to the next job.

[@donal6144]

That is the biggest load of horse shit

[@Kierenstanden-qz7eu]

@@rachelbailey-no2ppit’s absolutely shocking what they do. Seen one skill building the house is built in like and stone but rendered in sand and cement. None of them have a clue

[@TheAshantidutch]

I think this is a good system as you are reducing the amount of water that is introduced to the building, as we know over the winter people do not like to vent properties and so this system is good as it saves wasting potable water and reduces the drying time, could you tell me as the wall is hollow how do you fix the skirting ?

[@paddypete1]

great job,keep it up,that's a score you owe me

[@mhewkin1269]

Are the original dabs on the board the same foam as the second lot of dabs you put on in the video?

[@dampsam]

Hi, the system uses small acrylic dots/dabs and instastik, its part of safeguard europes express dampproofing system and all the info is on their website. each time we use this system we use the same method.

[@clearthelot2238]

I thoroughly enjoyed this video . This is a way forward !

[@marcoos3872]

Hi Simon, been watching your videos 👍🏻, could you explain why you use insta stik, is it an alternative to the fixings Safeguard supply with the system ? Also I have a damp partition or salt contaminated wall 🤷🏼‍♂️1930s house, black mortar, do I need to hack of & treat both sides of the wall or just one side ? Thanks Mark

[@dampsam]

Mark Davies hi thanks for watching, I use dry grip and insta stilk because the drygrip on its own takes about 30 mins to hold properly when the board is pressed against the wall. Instastik cures in 5-10 min. Insta has no initial substance to it tho but the drygrip does so they work in harmony. You can drill from one side of your wall if you drill to 20 mm off the far side.

[@lrdisco2005]

After watching a few of these 'fix damp' postings, I have come to some conclusions. A lot seems to be caused by raised outside ground levels and blocked vents with poor ventilation and water condensing inside the property. Some of the proposed wonder fixes lack credibility in my opinion.

[@dampsam]

Every damp issues is different and has to be diagnosed differently, there are different types of damp and unfortunately not very many damp companies have qualified people to interpret the signs, having Dampproofer wrote on the van doesn’t make you qualified as a lot of plasterers have. You need to pass exams and do courses which cost money and time.

[@dampsam]

MAkM it really does depend on what is the cause and type of damp and one property usually has more than one. Correct diagnosis and a schedule of works is key.

[@graemecornwall9498]

@@dampsam well said si couldn't agree more !

[@mattknox6443]

Any time theres damp theres always a cause of water ingress and unless that cause is found and repaired no damproofing is gonna cure dont care how big the hype its a fact you wanna cure damp cure the problem first !

[@Kierenstanden-qz7eu]

Or could be were a house built in lime mortar has been repointed in sand and cement. Like needs to breath and cement traps that

[@patterdalezipsuzilil]

did u use the sticky version of expanding foam because ordinary i dont think will stick to dusty brick

[@dampsam]

Thanks for your comment, No, not at all, the brick work is brushed down and then treated with a salt neutralising cream for preparation. expanding foam expands around 5-7 times so it would just push the board off. it also takes over an hour to cure. on the other hand Instastik, sticks and has hardly any expansion and also cures in 5-10 min so is quick to use. hope this helps.

[@ssaay8462]

Hi Sam could this method be used in a cellar? It is bare brick atm on a concrete sub floor. I am wanting to make the cellar a living space and unsure of what is the best way to make sure no damp will penetrate. Any help would be great. Cheers

[@dampsam]

See answer above 👍

[@rejpalkang1928]

Hi simon love all these videos and for what I’m doing this looks like the best system a few questions does the acrylic have to be from safeguard and will any foam grip work or more importantly which brands are you using currently and where to source from also the salt neutraliser how important is that what will happen if not used or is it to aid the adhesive to grip renovating an old terrace in chesterfield my self and your videos have been very insightful so keep it up

[@dampsam]

Rejpal Kang hi and thanks for being a supporter, Iv not come across anything close to having the grip and VFM of the drygrip. The salt neutraliser is part of the system and does help the bonding process I’m told. I use instastik but it’s in short supply at the moment so Iv order some called bond it, I’ll report on this once Iv used it . #staysafe

[@dccowell56]

please do not use this system you will regret it later on.

[@craigsmith3954]

@@dccowell56 You say this David but then you don't explain why, the blokes is trying to earn a living. Comments like yours are just irresponsible.

[@jamo78s3]

Apologies if I've missed some details but is that just ordinary expanding foam or a special damp proofing foam.

[@dampsam]

It’s a polyurethane foam like expanding foam but it doesn’t expand like the expanding foam does and it has waterproof adhesive qualities. There are a few on the market now, the one in the video is called instastik

[@bigmik3566]

If I use timber batons with a damp proof plastic strip behind them. Can I just attach the plaster board to the them. Or do you have to use the cream too

[@dampsam]

BIG MIK3 not really sure what you mean, I would need to know more info, feel free to contact me by email [e-mail] and give me more info

[@enquire422]

Would it be better to use a foil backed or water resistant plasterboard/Hardibacker?

[@dampsam]

Tahir Rana personally it’s not something I would do as the denser the material the more chance of a vapour check/barrier occurring, the plaster board allows water vapour to pass either way easier. Thanks for your question.

[@J0HND0333]

I have mold growing on my exterior wall on inside i have had drilled and injection with stuff but have not had Installations put back in the walls yet but i have striped wallpaper on inside used mold killer spray and mold proff pait and still mold if i put a unit up against tge wall the mold will grow do fast insane so at the momet everything is at least one foot away from the walls i got a dark carpet and have spotted in few place i got mold there to i just want my room mold proof can you help me please hiw mutch this cost ti fix can i bild a wall around my walls but leave a bige gap snd nothing on the old wall will thos wotk

[@dampsam]

Hi, your problem will be a ventilation and insulation issue, you would need a condensation survey to identify the problem and then put together a schedule of repair, email me your address and I’ll see if I can help you. [e-mail]

[@zafiramatt100]

Can I use Soudal Plasterboard Adhesive Foam to stick the plaster board Simon, is it acrylic? Thanks.

[@dampsam]

I would say yes it’s polyurethane adhesive , I would still use it with Drygrip adhesive though.

[@DenzelLN936]

Good video, what investigative diagnosis methods did you use out of interest?

[@dampsam]

Daniel N it was a site survey by myself, iv done a video showing what is in my surveyors kit and also a full survey, check them out on the channel.

[@DougEDoug-om8ie]

Good video. Whats your opinion on using a membrane and then plasterboard straight over that? Will it stick out more than the plaster work above it?

[@dampsam]

Hello Doug, Membrane is great if done right but not as quick as safeguards System, A lot of contractors don't put the membrane on correctly, if it is a solid floor a channel should be cut to sit in the membrane then a fillet added. You have added problems with the thickness, the do do a 5mm thick membrane but the the 9.5mm board takes it to 14.5 and you need 3mm finish making 17mm, I would hack the plaster off then make the call which system to go with. Membrane needs sealing tape, plugs, drill bits, drill, and other fixing stuff, I think you can't beat safegurds fast System if you install it right. Check out our website for free ebooks on damp and basement conversion.

[@darranbarker7]

hi simon, may i ask another question, when you come to skim, do you skim up to line where youve knocked off joining it to the old plaster or go over the line a bit and feather it out? im just wondering how to get it so the join isnt visible when its repainted. hope ive explained this so you can understand what i mean, or, could you make a video of how to join up to the knock off line? ( im not a plasterer but my wife says my plastering is passable for her standards). thanks

[@dampsam]

I usually sbr then skim over adding a band of mesh scrim across the joint then blend in

[@julianchambers8372]

Hi, can this type of adhesive be used to bond boards to timber rafters.?

[@dampsam]

Yes but they would need holding in place until the adhesive cures

[@glen.s9860]

Hi Simon I have damp all over the old walls to my place I have been injecting cream for a period of time due to the walls was render and plaster 18mths ago, but I am finding every time I go back and inject another dose of cream substance like water come out of the hole ? 2 I have a bay which was added to the property but, I realize there is no damp course was fitted into the B/work, so I gave it 3 x injecting of cream but the damp return after mths. The video way of dealing with the damp, I feel it's not getting rid of it, It's only masking the damp and the damp is still in the wall If 3 x injecting in my bay cannot keek the damp out? Do the rods work as they say?

[@dampsam]

VALLEY GLEN the system works if that was the initial problem, the cream and rods a for rising damp but if you have penetrating or internal condensation issues it will still come back. Who diagnosed the problem and proposed the system you have used?

[@lisahill1207]

HI Simon, I have a 1900s solid stone wall with lime mortar and lime render on the outside. I would like to use insulated plasterboard on the inside but how would i fit this to the solid stone wall and still allowing it to breathe so no damp can happen. Basically the owners of the property before me had plastered using gypsum plaster over and that has caused a damp issue. I have taken this back to stone

[@dampsam]

It can be done using 1200 x 2400 thermal plasterboards following the express damp system with instastik dots along with the Drygrip. It’s imperative that the inside air is adequately ventilated though so there is less chance of moisture forming on any cold spots.

[@CambridgeCookie]

Insulated lime plaster is vapour permeable and appropriate for a traditional solid wall building. If these are external walls be very careful about using anything like plasterboard which will effectively trap in moisture.

[@nharding4738]

I used the safe guard method 2 years ago and up to now have had no problems.i am not a builder just keen DIY

[@dampsam]

That’s great to hear, I personally think it’s a game changer and if you don’t embrace it you will be left behind

[@janonthemtn]

What's the safe guard method? I missed something.

[@Taffy7974]

Is that foam expander ? You actually use that to stick the drywall sheet to wall ?

[@dampsam]

Its A product called Instastik Rc Vulcan

[@groovejet33]

Can you help? I was told that Sovereign Stopped their guarantee or similar, on the injection treatment, because of many Failures. I cant see anything on web, but a firm deffo told me about it. Is injection best, instead using like a K1 solution. For rising damp on end terrace. Whole street has bad damp, and it comes back and back. I was gonna treat with anti salt gear, render with sbr in it, then sbr render when dry, then plaster? Wot you think?

[@dampsam]

Soveriegn only guarantee their product, the installer guarantees the work.

[@MrGuvEuroman]

Your magic materials have been around for a short time, correctly lime pointing, lime plastering and proper floor levels have been around since Jesus was a boy, the Romans taught us how to build, lime methods have been around for 2000+ years not a bit of posh plaster board and foam spray, you are just hiding dampness not curing it.

[@dampsam]

I think you will find Gypsum has been around longer around 4000 years yet your against that, it’s first mentioned when the first pyramid was built at gisa. Reason I know is I did a thesis on it for my HNC. I’m not against lime plasters but they are an expensive way to cure the issues and everyone has a right to a dry property rich or poor so affordable systems have been introduced.

[@MrGuvEuroman]

@@dampsam But plaster board is not curing it, it’s hiding dampness behind, these old properties need to breath, hiding the problem with boards and even heaven forbid tanking is just making the block work damp and eventually it will ruin the block/bricks/stone, modern builders are slowly killing old properties because the old methods are being forgotten or incorrectly used.

[@gufiak]

@@MrGuvEuroman keep it up mate, those cowboys are finding easy ways to patch up the issue which was solved hundreds if not thousands years ago. But it's much easier to put up a plaster board, rather than the proper plaster. Laziness, convenience and quick earnings make them proud of their temporary hacks. At the cost of the home owners unaware of the ticking bomb...

[@timothybint4960]

Frame it and insulate it Foil tape it then plasterboard and skim Lime has its uses but has not insulation value , hemp plaster is better if keeping the shape is priority Dot n dab should be reserved for internal walls

[@hindleymanb6626]

Hi we got wet wall we think it condensation it's a old house over 200 years how would I be able tackle that if I rip all plaster off

[@dampsam]

Without a site visit it’s hard to say, lots of systems out there but you also need to look at your ventilation

[@akwindowcleaning3321]

Ні, I've got a question. I have a problem of rising damp. I've knocked down rendering on the inside of the house and it turned out that instead of bricks I have discovered Aerated Blocks. I've bought 50 dry rods but not sure now how to put them in to the blocks. What is best to use? Or how to put the dry rods into the blocks?

[@dampsam]

If they are blocks it won’t be rising damp, I would get a second opinion from someone competent and relevantly qualified it may save you money in the long run

[@moeenahmed6853]

Hi pal. Can you use the silver foil back plasterboard, rather than using standard plaster board. Also can you use the everbuild stixall on the silver foil back plasterboard, rather using the foam gun????

[@dampsam]

I would not use the foil back boards as the wall is drying out after installation of the DPC, I’m not sure about the stick all but we use Everbuild applicators to insert the DryGrip.. I’ll have a look at it.

[@akashshah1907]

Can this wall be left just like this after treatment? Or it needs plastering afterwards? Thanks

[@dampsam]

It needs to be skimmed

[@neilbickerdike]

The insta stick is it basically expanding foam .?

[@dampsam]

Neil bickerdike no, it’s a polyurethaning glue, it does expand slightly as a foam tho.

[@steveevans8160]

Lol....wow this made me chuckle thanks for laughs

[@attermire2109]

how do you stop the residual moisture from destroying the paper binding and plasterboard core?

[@dampsam]

attermire2109 when you say residual moisture what do you mean with this? Unless the wall is below ground level there should be no ingress as any moisture coming out of the wall will be in the form of water vapour(a gas) and this just goes through the plasterboard.

[@HSilver341]

Good vid mate ,can’t find Dry shield inhibiting cream anywhere unless u buy online Is there any equivalent to it

[@dampsam]

Hsilver dale it’s on Amazon, if you email me I’ll send you a link for everything [e-mail] 👌

[@barryroberts9302]

Hiya sam barry again from wales. Glad to see your living the dream today july 17th having bbq in this heat. You'll get to ibiza soon enough im sure. Just wanted to ask a question rev the plasterboard system. Would a surveyor pick it up on a damp meter. Just avout to sell a house and done your trick but thought would they know from a meter test should they check. Cheers if you can advise. Keep the vids coming we do appreciate you. Say high to the family and tell the little one we are watching the videos dad doing. Cheers bud.

[@dampsam]

Hi Barry, thanks for your kind words pal. If the system is installed correct with no bridging issues you will be fine., 👍

[@jamescatterall4832]

will this foam stick to a smooth damp proof membrane?

[@dampsam]

Yes sticks to all surfaces

[@callumkeegan2456]

If you go to 7 mins in can I ask a question? If the wall drys and comes to the surface won’t it pass though the board and make it mouldy ?

[@dampsam]

No because the water vapour coming out of the wall is at a slow rate and and is a gas

[@highgamer4957]

Is this normal to put drywall straight onto brick exterior? No framing, no insulation?

[@dampsam]

When you say dry wall are you referring to the system or drywall adhesive? I don’t use drywall adhesive the fixing agent is called drygrip and is waterproof.

[@ianhowe2120]

This is nonsense. Buy the old house handbook from The society for the protection of ancient buildings established by William Morris. My kitchen suffered from condensation untill I solved it buy stripping off the plasterboard and plastic emulsion paint and repainted with claypaint. Old houses need to breath it's how they were designed.

[@dampsam]

Ian Howe thanks for your input, have you actually watched the video? The boards are held off the wall with acrylic and instastik dots, other than having bare brick you can’t get more ventilated. If you read through the comments for the videos you will see I have nothing against other re-plastering systems. This is just one of many.

[@stephenmitchell1270]

Ian Howe - Old houses don't breath, it's all about permeability and evaporation, that term is quite misleading.

[@stevenmoore9524]

Ull still plaster over it and it won't be able to breathe. And the course u mentioned is three days it's a joke. The damp proofing lads most of the time come out put there prongs in ur wall and it will show its damp. Lol. The whole industry is a joke atm, really needs looking at.

[@lameduck3630]

@@dampsam Isn't the moisture trapped in the cavity?

[@SkillBuilder]

The word is breathe.

[@lukeroberts9592]

Hi Simon, thanks for the videos - really informative. I am getting a two bed victorian mid terrace damp proofed in the coming months throughout the whole ground floor. The property has concrete floors and I have a quote for Safeguard's method and the membrane method that are roughly similar. I know it is hard to say without a site visit but which method would you recommend? Many thanks, Luke.

[@dampsam]

Luke Roberts thank you for the great feedback. Both systems work when done correctly by a competent technician. My preference would be from a fitting point of view so maybe not relevant to you, I would prefer the fastest system as they both come in at around the same price,so time is a valuable commodity and I can spend quality time with the family with the time I save. For the customer as long as the job is dry and looks good when finished that should be the priority. I never specify one particular system unless a customer asks for it and then that may come at a premium. Our survey and quotes just say replastering in accordance with BS6576 which states a salt neutralising plaster must be used after installation of the new damp proof course. Hope this helps

[@adventureswiththelittleone493]

What a load of rubbish! You both need a few lessons from Peter ward Rising damp is nonsense!! It’s condensation!

[@theacefacejames]

@@adventureswiththelittleone493 Spot on 👏👏. All these Wally Rising Damp Men

[@theleaks8466]

Hi. Iv had condensation on my causing mold. 2 years ago my Plasterer made a additional wall on all external walls upstairs and put a membrane in between. The issue i face now is the horrific smell in my bedroom. I have to open my window every time. I made sure all my gaps are filled but what else can i do in my bedroom? Thanks

[@dampsam]

spiderman go , good afternoon Spidey, I suspect the problem you have maybe the mould is still growing behind the wall you put up, there could be a problem called interstitial condensation occurring where water vapour as a gas diffuses through the fabric but hits a dense material so then takes longer to carry on its journey, if the mould was not treated this may have multiplied, Dry rot also has a smell so check for leaking gutters outside and red rust coloured spore dust inside. My email is [e-mail] if you need more help.

[@michaeljohnson1006]

You need to get all the dry board off and membrane and have it lime plastered..Then check u have no issues with guttering or roof leaking or plastic masonry paint or if your house has lime mortar then check to see if its not re pointed with cement instead of lime check outside floor levels are below inside as well.. use a breathable paint inside and don't wallpaper...oh and lime wash outside.

[@dampsam]

Good comment Mr Johnson

[@michaeljamesdesign]

Yes Mr Johnson, well said. I couldn't actually agree more. If there's damp in your bedroom then it won't be from the ground as moisture can't travel that high. The moisture is coming in another way. Get rid of your boards and get the place vapour permeable again.

[@dampsam]

Great Comment Johnny C totally agree about the cavity.

[@joealcorn1632]

Does it work on stone walls? what is the name of space segment??

[@dampsam]

Yes works on all masonry, not sure what you mean about a space segment

[@GrahamOrm]

You need to re do this video mate. I missed the bit about the injection completely because of poor saound. It's easy for experienced trades to see this as a botch. After watching it a couple of times I realise it's not. Clean the lense on your phone as well. ;-)

[@normanbishop5523]

Graham Orm n; n

[@MrFatboyRuns]

Hi pal, I hope you don't mind helping with my query. I've had issues with damp coming through my walls, so I used tanking slurry to tackle the problem. On top of the tanking slurry, I applied render with a 2:1 sand and cement mix (as advised by the manufacturer of the tanking slurry). Now the question is, can I use gypsum based plaster on top of the render, or do I have to use renovation plaster? Cheers pal.

[@dampsam]

I would use renderlite or limelite

[@MrFatboyRuns]

@@dampsam Cheers mate.

[@iangr5259]

Hi Simon, so is the reason for using the insta stick dabs just for convenience, for cost or for ease of use? Why use this as well as the drygrip?

[@dampsam]

Hello Ian thanks for your interest, with the acrylic supplied by Safeguard as part of the dryzone express damp system i found that just using the acrylic for fixing was not working. the acrylic takes too long to set and will push back off when the salt neutralising cream has been applied. I had a think and my creative brain came up with this system using the instastik. the instastik cures in 5-10 mins and bonds the plasterboard to the substrate and other elements. it has slight expansion hence holding the board in place with the props, you can leave a slight gap to counter any bridging and give further adhesion, 1 can is around a tenner now but when i first started using it we paid £3 its getting popular. it also does not absorb moisture. if you add up the cost of the materials its the cheapest fastest quickest system on the market. its all about installing the DPC then isolating the board from the wall until the masonry dries out which can take up to a year depending on the moisture and make up of the fabric. hope this helps thanks for watching.

[@iangr5259]

Thanks for the reply Simon. So the drygrip has strong adhesion but is slow to set and the instastick is quick setting but not as strong to bond? Therefore the instastick's purpose is to hold the boards in place while the drygrip slowly sets to give the final and more permanent finish? Is that it? This is my first attempt at using the express system. I did my csrt over 12 years ago but have only used the render system a few times, as I only do damp proofing on my own properties. Hence the questions!! Cheers, Ian.

[@dampsam]

Ian Gr the instastik does have a strong bond but when it is first sprayed ther is no substance to it, the acrylic dots have the substance so just ease the board up to them, Best thing to do is buy 2 6x3 plasterboards and cut them into 8 pieces, then have a trial sticking them together and get a feel for the products and see the strengths when left.

[@fme4099]

Hi mate great videos, some advice needed. Just bought a property and found a puddle of water inside the house coming through a concrete floor after heavy rain. Found that the front down pipe is buried into the ground, could this have been the cause of the puddle found inside the house?

[@dampsam]

I would look for any cracks in the floor or runs of water from the wall floor angle as this is a week spot. There could be a number of reasons for the water the down pipe may be one, it would be work having a drain survey done looking for any damage.

[@fme4099]

@@dampsam Excellent, thanks Simon

[@johnwinstanley5108]

I'm in the process of re-plastering two walls in a terrace built 1910ish, one is external, one joins the adjacent property they are both above a concrete floor. The bricks are wet, the old plaster was soaking wet in parts and in one spot, high on external wall had salt deposit. Hard to determine the causes (for none tradesman like me). Next to pipework (which was wet, but no obvious leaks now excavated), below a bathroom, render on external wall has (had) some holes, old plaster was patchy, some sand and cement mix, lots of bonding (other mixes??) the old bitchmin damp proof course at ground level was falling apart, plaster was touching concrete floor.... so obviously talking to a damp specialist to help. This technique seems like a brilliant idea. Are there any reasons not to use it? e.g. how durable is Insta Stik? Is it easy to make sure the boards are level as Insta Stick expands. What are the acrylic dots for? As you applied the Insta Stik to the side of the dots (sorry if this is explained in the video) but does the Insta Stick expand over those dots?

[@dampsam]

John Winstanley I wouldn’t used this system below ground level unless the area has had a barrier system applied Nat Cem 35 or similar. You need Plasterers props to hold the boards in place although safeguard do a plug that goes with the system to hold the board in place. The acrylic has more initial substance and holds the board slightly off the wall, the acrylic takes over half an hour to grab whereas the instastik takes 5-10min. Once the acrylics does grab though it takes some getting off. Thanks for you support hope this helps👍

[@samcraddock5588]

Hi Simon. Would this system work straight over tanking slurry? Cheers pal

[@dampsam]

Yes, you wouldn’t put salt neutraliser on the wall though

[@samcraddock5588]

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW thanks bud. I planned to just board the wall floor to ceiling to save on prep but the 1m high of tanking is of course sitting a good few mm back from the the top half of the wall...Any tips on dabbing to the tanking should I try put extra foam or try build it out with sand and cement before I stick it with foam? . Cheers again 👍v

[@Asborillo81]

What sort of guarantee on the membrane? And what about the join line ? Surely the expanding foam is going to act like a sponge and going to create a problem?

[@dampsam]

The reply is a standard 10 Years same as all the guarantees, we use mesh across the joint. its the same mesh that is used on the joints of insulation for external render systems, there is not that movement though. the reason scrim is used on plasterboard joints on stud work is because the timber can move. Thanks for commenting and watchin.

[@DeHat06]

Hi Simon, what type of acrylic do you recommend for this system. (The safeguard adhesive is expensive)

[@dampsam]

Hi Dave, Thanks for watching, Safeguard do an acrylic that is part of the dry wall system they make. But also Sika do an acrylic for sticking timber that comes in a tin foil sausage that fits the applicator too. you can shop around, the acrylic will stop any bridging and also stick the board to the wall. hope this helps you.

[@katiec3686]

hi thank you so much for this informative video! we have a terraced house that we bought almost two years ago now and the damp and mould issues weren't picked up on the survey as the previous owner (a builder) had done a quick job to disguise them and move on. in our kitchen we have integrated appliances and one recently needed replacing. when we removed the washing machine we found there was no plaster behind the kitchen units, nothing but bare brick and plug sockets screwed into the brick work. the kitchen had been fitted first and then plastered around? never seen anything like it? its completely black with mould behind the units and in the dining area we have rising damp due to him plastering straight onto bare brick and straight down to the floor. we also looked into having the house insulated but the damp proofing he did outside wasn't high enough so could cause even more problems. is there any way for us to extend the damp proofing outside so it higher? also the inside were assuming everything needs ripping out below 1 metre and treated. do you recommend injecting the damp proof in the internal walls too? and where would you even start with this type of job? were in bolton so think we may be too far for you? thanks for any help and advice :) x

[@dampsam]

Hello Katie c If you do a postcode search on the PCA website you will find your nearest competent damp-proof and remedial company that are members and will give you advise on seeing the property. you could email us via the contact us form on our websire if you want us to come out.

[@franknally4684]

What this guy is doing is crazy.you always keep plaster slabs 20mm up from ground level.this stops any damp on floors from rising. Drywall slabs do not stop damp they only cover it .Damp creates a fungus which is very bad for one's health. If u have damp penetrating from the outside you can treat walls with Sika or similar clear damp proofed. If you have to extend existing external insulation measure thickness of existing insulation ,cut new insulation to size and fix to wall with steel slab fixings. Check render and match new work. F. N

[@dampsam]

Frank Nally well spotted I can see you know your stuff, what you might not see is its a timber floor with a cellar below, and it's an internal dividing wall, hope this helps, oh and water vapour as a gas will travel through the fabric until all the dampness has evaporated from the wall after the installation of the damp proof course. I hope this helps you.

[@garystuartadams1]

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW - Hi Just a query how can you conclude rising damp if there is suspended floor and a cellar beneath? Typically rising damp will only travel approx. 1m in height from solid ground. The damp below timber floor should have dispersed within void of cellar.

[@dampsam]

the wall had a few issues going on with penetrating and rising damp near the front door with some bridging issues. there was a gap in the flooring that was also allowing cold damp air to bridge from the cellar. Again sorry for the poor sound quality these videos were made off the cuff and are not professionally made. they are impulsive but we are a professional company and know about damp issues.

[@enochpowelghost]

air flow is required to get damp out i have worked on 30 year old properties his idea works but needs airflow in bad situations.

[@andrewsmall6568]

Do you drill through to the next door in a terrace house?

[@dampsam]

Andrew Small hi, thanks for watching, we can work out how think The was is be using different methods and knowing the size of bricks. We dill 2/3rds of the way through to avoid coming out the other side. We are not perfect and it has happened in the past but not on this job. Most of the time you are at skirting level so it would go un noticed but on the verticals you may end up having some patching to do.

[@juanfcgb]

Great video! What's the difference between this technique to apply a dry wall and using metal track to walls plasterboard? Thanks!

[@dampsam]

Well the metal track and board is thicker so you would need to do the full wall as it will not blend in with the existing. It would also take longer to do time wise and be more expensive. It would be another option if you fit it independently though.

[@vistron888]

So you're stopping the decorative plaster being spoiled but the water itself is still coming up the wall? How does the water then evaporate from the bricks, won't it just climb higher up the wall, no?

[@jeffcole5708]

Always found foam allows moisture to bridge across. Any sticking of plasterboards I've used a long 4x2 to force a flat surface over a larger area.

[@dampsam]

Hi Jeff thanks for your comments, not sure what you have been using the foam on or what method. The wall eventually dries out, foam does not bridge as it is impervious. Its like saying the sand and cement render bridges, but if you know how the transfer of moisture works you will see it doesnt. Again not sure what you use the 4x2 for either but thanks for watching.

[@jeffcole5708]

Hi, thanks for the reply. The foam was used around a new door frame, so it was touching the external wall and the internal. I had damp patches around the frame on the wall. The 4 to 5 foot 4"x 2" stretched across the stuck plaster boards joins making sure the boards were level and not following any irregularities of the wall.

[@Studhawk]

A lot of builders are using foam to stick things - but the best foam is the fireproof one or pink one! Someone commented about the foam allowing moisture through it but this is the first i have heard on this?

[@georgemcm9027]

Does this system work on lime cement walls or lime plastered walls.

[@dampsam]

Yes works on all masonry background s

[@Phi1l]

Hi Simon, how would you fit skirting boards having done this? Do you plaster first? Reason I ask is that I'd imagine there's a little more 'give' using foam vs a plaster dab so would you risk cracking plaster when you fit skirting boards?

[@dampsam]

Hi Philip H, Just fit the skirting as you normally would, most joiners will stick them and pin them with the nail gun. you can fit them first if you want but after too, either way is ok.

[@drivingschool11]

What will happen in case damp is raising on the wall? Great video definitely!

[@dampsam]

We drill and inject a dpc

[@robertyoung6731]

If you new what you were doing ,you don’t put plaster board on to the floor ,and the plaster board will get damp with the moisture what left in the wall ?

[@dampsam]

It’s a timber floor brains 🧠

[@paulmuller8073]

Hi what best course to go on thank you

[@dampsam]

paul muller try the manufactures registered user course first so eithe Safeguard, Soveriegn, John Newton, Wykomol, and start with these before going on the PCA website where they do lots of remedial related courses

[@scottwallace3900]

I have a problem with damp at the back of my home the two bedrooms have damp on them bathroom the same plus the ceiling in there now I've seen comments of red spore in the house I have black spore in the house and red spore all along the back wall on the outside of the house any advise would be appreciated .

[@dampsam]

Hi Scott, I would go on the Property Care Website PCA and do a postcode search for your nearest competent remedial company and ask them to send out a survey to have a look. the black mould would indicate an internal insulation and ventilation issue. The red dust spores may be a bit more serious and could be a sign of dry rot. This year we have had more outbreaks than usual due to the humid conditions over the summer. Hope this helps.

[@scottwallace3900]

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW thankyou very much for your reply simon

[@livesportsvideo02]

Sounds like whoever rendered your exterior walls didn't waterproof the mix properly. Make sure the rooms are well ventilated, look up PIV on the internet. The use of thermaline boards will help reduce damp on your walls. Also look at installing a localised heat recovery unit in the room. This recirculates the air keeping it clean and moving without heat loss. Vent Axia HR25 Heat Recovery Unit.

[@dampsam]

Porthcawl Tag Rugby thanks for your advice that is again wright and wrong, you have basically just guest a system with things you have heard of and probably used and this is a prime example of why we actually go to the job to survey it first, you mention external render for some reason and tanking the wall. We are working on an internal party wall of a terrace house and although we love PIV units and alternating fans the system we used was a fraction of the cost of them. Email us with another guess if you like.

[@andywilson5626]

How much did u charge!?

[@skieer1000]

nice work bro it was really a informative video,but not helping me in my case ,i have damp problem(render cement and sand plaster) will u plz suggest me any chemical or somethin ,already tried dozen types of damp sealer .....greetings from Pakistan

[@dampsam]

waqar ahmed ch good evening, I'm not familiar with the products you have over there, the sealing paints don't really work as it's the salts from the ground and building materials that may be the issue, it could be humidity that could be causing issues to, Send me the pictures and I'll try to comment, use the contact us form on our website.

[@JT_70]

I have the volume all the way up on my iPad and even put on earbuds but can barely hear you.

[@dampsam]

Sorry JT, the vids are just done on my phone at the min and dust may have affected the mic. Apologies for the poor sound.

[@Studhawk]

Sika 1a added to your Leighton Buzzard sand for rendering is standard in the uk upto 1.2 metres above ground level should use Sika in the water mix. Making sure you use the Sika correctly and not too strong and not too weak is important.

[@k.r.lionheart6460]

Hi what’s the foam you are using

[@dampsam]

Instastick on that job but we now use mega stick

[@runthomas]

i have got a proper damp wall and all paster is lumping and paint peeling. can i buy a can of something to just drill the brick and inject inside or outside to fix it up cheap.. i cant afford to pay someone loads of money to fix it ...

[@dampsam]

It all depends on what the cause of the damp is. You need to know the cause. There are different types of damp that affect walls of buildings and each is a different system of repair. It’s a bit like trying to treat a sore throat by putting a plaster on your neck. It’s the wrong thing to do.

[@MagicianMan]

Hi Simon, Personally I want to say thanks for the video and your effort to reply to every response! I have an old house that has had some damp proof work done prior to me buying it. There are a couple of small problem areas (under stairs and at the bottom of the stairs) and I will be buying some Dryshield Cream from Safeguard and re-plastering. With the availability of adhesive foams such as PINKGRIP DRYFIX FR or CONSTRUCTA PRO would you still need the Acrylic Adhesive (which I think maybe either EVERFLEX 175 UNIVERSAL ACRYLIC SEALANT or SIKABOND T-2 ADHESIVE??).

[@dampsam]

Magician2905 thanks for the great feed back, I use the drygrip because if you ease it up to the wall it’s substance holds the board off the wall slightly and has an iron like grip once set. The instastik is so you can move on to the next board in 5-10 min as it cures fairly quick. I have used other acrylics before and they do seem thinner and don’t have that grab. Hope this helps 😉

[@stephengunner3047]

Hi Simon. You didn't explain in this video what the cause of the 'rising damp' was. Was it high ground levels? A leaking gutter or downpipe? Faulty soil pipe? Blocked air vents? Debris in the cavity? I have spent my whole life in the building trade (44 years) and the last 22 years diagnosing damp problems and have yet to recommend a chemical dpc or re-rendering the internal walls.

[@dampsam]

Stephen Gunner hi email me and tell me more about yourself [e-mail] I get that many made up profiles commenting which I don’t mind but could spend forever answering the same question to the same group of people. I’ll be happy to speak to you by email.

[@dampsam]

karaburmasuburb feel free to email me with your concerns over the system which is designed by safeguard who are the makers of DryZone cream, 22 years doing what? I’m curios . Why don’t you send me an email get in touch for a chat. Let me know what system you use? Let me guess is it to let the bricks breathe,? Look forward to hear why your so against this remedial work and why you torture yourself watching if you don’t agree. Thanks for being a fan.

[@suesmith8937]

Stephen Gunner n)

[@dampsam]

karaburmasuburb good morning and thanks for commenting, high end work sounds awsome and it’s great you don’t have to advertise. Imagine if you did though you could grow your business and scale it, but you may want to stay small. It’s interesting that you say trapping the moisture in which tells me you have some small amount of knowledge but none that relates to how Dampness travels in walls of buildings. If your free anytime I’m willing to sit down and listen to your concerns with a coffee and explain what you need to here. The offer is open to anyone who wants to comment and I’ll buy the drinks. You must have a lot of spare time looking through these video and writing comments but if you worked on your business harder you might be happier and it may grow and you might find you then need to advertise. When we have the coffee I’ll give you some tips. Have a great day

[@dampsam]

Lenny Dipp thanks for commenting, the only time moisture can be trapped is where glass is and it would need to be a sealed glass box as glass is the only material the water vapour as a gas will not travel through. The video is to shown the quick system and the cause ( of which there were more than one) has been addressed. The work was completed and guaranteed and the wall is still dry. Contact me, come have a coffee and I’ll answer anything you want on damp and how damp travel through walls of building as you seem very concerned and interested at the same time. My fave at the min is costa and we have 4 where I live. Have a fantastic week 👍

[@ChrisTopher-ls3ji]

Wow! That is special

[@colinmccurdy1336]

Oh ffs !! I've seen it all now!! I think your horse is waiting for you outside mate

[@dampsam]

Colin McCurdy well if you would like to tell us why you think this on watching a video we’re all ears, I empathise with you and do respect your right to comment a sentence but it would nice to hear more. Thanks for being a super fan and you limited input.

[@james6401]

I did a DIY job using this method in 2008 on an extension (kitchen) in Ireland made of 9-inch blocks. Also on most of the external facing mass concrete walls of the 1930s-built main house. Skimmed / hard walled after. I was always dubious about fungal growth occurring behind the dry lining but so far we've seen very little if any. However... The entire main house was since newly replastered in 2016 because the old render was letting in some moisture and now perhaps a certain amount of moisture may be trapped in the walls (?). The insulation we used may only have been 25mm or so but massive warmth improvement. And so far (2021) no extensive problems with damp seeping through or fungus or mold. There is a small area of fungal growth present on the hall stairs which is at the gable end of the house but we have yet to determine whether it's due to the insulation job or something else, perhaps a leaking main under that area or some dampness penetrating the new plaster outside. The gable end wall at the stairs was NOT done using expanding foam but was instead drilled and pinned with those insulation board nails. I did the exact same Dec 2019 on our external boiler house I built here in Dublin, 9 inch cavity blocks, damp course, plastered outside and 30mm insulation inside this time. No skim coat. Super warm, dry and nearly 18 months later there's not a sign of damp or any fungus etc I used the cheapest expanding foam for both projects. I'll keep you posted on any negative effects I see of any. Worthwhile keeping an eye on it as it's

[@gerigame2995]

How do I find someone who does this in Newcastle?

[@dampsam]

Go on the Property Care Association website and do a postcode search

[@warrenmckay202]

Hi mate, need to do something with sound recording volume. Very informative however straining my ears trying to listen.

[@IAmOnTheInternetz]

Press Volume + 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

[@robmcghie5248]

I like your considered patient replies you have a lot of experience obviously and this will always be a controversial area. Truth is we still lag behind the continent and don't have as many technical solutions and materials as they often have. I like the way the Dutch deal with curing damp.

[@dampsam]

Womble Robert I hope your not referring to the Holland system who take out full page adds in sunday papers? We have the knowledge of how the different types of dampness affect walls in buildings so once you have this you can just use the best system for you as a contractor or company. I try and show all the systems I use so people can grasp how they work. I watch how too videos all the time for my everyday needs so like to contribute what I know into the information bank. Glad you find them interesting. Thanks for your input. Regards Damp Sam

[@robmcghie5248]

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW checked it out yes snake oil! Knapen tubes. Won't use. Thinking of using injection cream at 150mm in former solid back wall wc area now bedroom with lean to protecting outer side Then hack to brick wp render eg sika additive then re plaster or d & d like you did but space ltd so may re render outside too above the pavior ground level which no longer unexposed not necessary to lower.

[@jimmyzoom1143]

@@robmcghie5248 yeah, you got it all sorted you two

[@oliverkersh2010]

Hi, what are the props called to keep the boards in place?

[@dampsam]

If you search for plasterers props or builders props they should appear, tool station sell them

[@stokeyvillian]

We use duplex boards and anchors as well as the foam. Stops any residual damp coming through the board. I'd never use a normal board.

[@dampsam]

jonty jt not sure what you mean by a duplex board, foil back prob? I would think it may create a vapour check, do you use acrylic to fix them?

[@norocketsciencebuild5371]

I admire your out of the box solution. Many people will slate you for it, credit is where it is due! Well done! However, the expanding foams aren't waterproof.

[@dampsam]

No Rocket Science Build thanks for your comment, I think you will find the polyurethane foams don’t absorb water it’s a closed cell type of insulation. Thanks for watching.

[@martynissitt2693]

Why did you not use foil backed board ?

[@dampsam]

MARTYN ISSITT thanks for asking. Foil back boards are not suitable as the foil may act as a vapour check while the brickwork is drying out. Normal plasterboard allows water vapour to pass through without any effect, hope this helps.

[@bigmik3566]

Ello mate. Have you done video on damp proofing interior partition walls?Also if you've got damp on the exterior walls...do you damp proof the outside or inside or both?Thanks. Mike

[@dampsam]

Hi, what sort of partition wall is it? Did you just mean an internal brick wall? If so this should be the same meathod as the others if it’s damp. You can either drill and inject from inside or out, if you want you can do both, You can use a long drill bit to double drill from one side, or you can drill and inject each skin separate from outside then in with a shorter drill bit. Hope this helps

[@bigmik3566]

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW hi thanks for info👍 So I can just use the rods for all outside, inside and internal walls? Is the rods ok and good or would you recommend injection? Sorry also why have you removed plaster and render on inside of main wall? Is this if the plaster is damaged?

[@bigmik3566]

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW sorry also. The house is in Wheatley hill. If I need you, would you travel that far for the job?

[@dampsam]

BIG MIK3 if the plaster is contaminated with salts from the ground if you don’t remove the plaster and replaster with a salt neutralising plaster then the salts will keep absorbing moisture from the air and continually spoil decoration, Once the damp proof course is installed the masonary above can take up to 9-12 months to return to equilibrium. If installed right the cream and dry sticks work the same, you don’t need an applicator for the sticks and you know you have the right amount in the wall.

[@dampsam]

BIG MIK3 we do all yorkshire and some Nottinghamshire, we would consider all jobs depending on what is needed where is Wheatley Hill,

[@damprotek]

This system has potential but not all walls are straight and some of them have really thick render.. it's kind of limited as well just for rising damp and not tanking as I do a lot of work below ground level but I will definitely give it a go you're obviously showing people on a nice clean wall with good brickwork and the thickness s is exactly how you want it any other situation I can see it being awkward especially with wires plug sockets and such

[@dampsam]

Yes your spot on with your comments, the system is not for below ground but can be used with natcem35 which sets in an hour. this is one of many systems out there and is ideal for small areas. you need to be a black belt at it to start doing plug sockets. you have to choose the right size plasterboard for the plaster thickness and background. Thanks for commenting and watching.

[@kesgreen4639]

No such thing as rising damp

[@damprotek]

@@kesgreen4639 how did it get wet then I've seen damp rise up a wall many times in fact all the time.. how did it get wet.. capillary action

[@MyHomeInSunRise]

Hey mate what mushrooms u use? Are they local from your area? Am moving In.. Srsly good stuff must be:)

[@dampsam]

🤷🏼

[@michaelheaton1456]

Hi, my wall is painted with bitumen paint, can I still use foam and acrylic adhesive to fix to that? Or what's my best option doesn't seem like the paint would hold the weight?

[@dampsam]

I can’t really comment without seeing the job and getting more information.

[@comfortablynumb8832]

Is that just normal expanding foam?

[@dampsam]

It’s instastik

[@comfortablynumb8832]

@@dampsam thanks

[@richardmarshall6041]

Hi Simon, sadly I'm not surprised that so many people are critical of a different method - it wasn't long ago that dry lining walls was laughed at as a skill less method by dinosaurs, still, I've worked on enough old buildings to convince me that "the old methods" are not necessarily the best - otherwise we wouldn't be working on them :)) Well done for showing different thinking and retaining your dignity when replying to some of the almost abusive comments

[@dampsam]

Richard Marshall thank you your 100% right, all I can do is put the new stuff out their, I empathise with people and know some just want to be herd so that’s why I try and answer them all, thanks for the kind words of support.

[@gillypoof]

thank you

[@paulmuller8073]

Hi can send name of the stick you are using thank you

[@dampsam]

paul muller hi thanks for watching, I think your on about the props, they are adjustable building props for Plasterers if you type that in your search a few different ones should come up, they range from £15 up to £50, we use 4 but I’m looking to get a few more. Have a great weekend 👍

[@captainchaos2671]

its shit mate

[@bluehorizon5149]

WHAT A COWBOY !!!!!

[@dampsam]

Says someone hidden behind a blind account 😂

[@135Ops]

@@dampsam He might be anonymous but he's not wrong....

[@ciaranboyle311]

What about the damp, it's still present?you just stuck something in front of it.thats like sweeping the dirt under the carpet.

[@ciaranboyle311]

The back of the slab is going to get black mould and other fungi all over it, causing even more problems down the line

[@Jcoughlan]

Allot of people online seem to think rising damp is a myth.... it does exist but it’s best to rule out other causes first. I’m not sure if dot and dab is the best method to deal with rising damp. But one thing I can tell you is you will get cracking in between the dot and and rendered section of wall. Rendering wall with waterproof additive would be a much more long term solution.

[@dampsam]

JonnyC321 that’s a good point about cracking we use the same mesh as is used on the outside render systems, there is more chance of waterproof renders cracking when not prepped or applied correctly with thinner coats building up thicknesses. Cold bridging is another issue on solid walls not to mention the 48 hours it has to be left before it’s skimmed. I just show case the best, cleanest, quickest system out at the moment, whether people choose to use it is down to preference. It took a lot in our industry years to start using the thixotropic creams as they to thought it was which craft. Others made the money while they stayed set in their ways.

[@Jcoughlan]

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW what do you mean by thixotropic creams?

[@dampsam]

JonnyC321 that’s what all dampproofing creams are called, you may just know them by the brand names like Dryzone

[@fantajenkings4068]

Hi Simon, how do you deal with the foam between the gaps? I'm guessin cut back and skim coat... Does the plaster stick ok?

[@dampsam]

Yes slice it off with a really sharp knife or trowel, don’t hack at it or that created tufts . Plaster sticks fine to it

[@craigmorris3941]

Hi Simon. I will be moving into a new home soon which is approx 120 years old. It has never had a damp proof course and was wondering when we do the damp proof would you advise to inject externally AND internally? Cheers

[@dampsam]

Hi Craig, Without seeing it and what state the walls are inside its hard to comment, but If it was me i would do inside and out just because thats how we have always done it. the only exception is when there is no way to do both due to access. some damp-proofer will do the work from one side and there is no reason why it wont work done correctly. hope this helps some. thanks for watching and commenting and good luck with the project.

[@craigmorris3941]

@@dampsam Thanks for your reply Simon, much appreciated. I will record a video once we move in and if you have time maybe you could have a quick look. Great work work with your channel by the way, has helped me understand damp issues much better, so much so I wasnt afraid to buy a house that had a bit of damp, cheers!

[@dampsam]

Craig Morris of course just let me know i look forward to it.

[@majorleaguegamer1160]

Hi Sam have you ever used it come across this product? SIKA WATERPROOF COATING GREY 5KG (83502) It’s on the screw fix website. I’m applying it to brickwork and then it’s being plastered over....

[@dampsam]

Major League Gamer good Morning, yes I’m aware of Sika products and this particular one. Some are brilliant for waterproofing and are one of the more expensive brands. Why are you using this? Is the wall below ground level? This is a polymodified slurry used in waterproofing/tankin. I am not a fan of brushing this directly onto brickwork because people never prepare the background correctly. You do know before applying this product they recommend you take out all the joints and re point the wall first, as well as brushing the surface with a wire brush to clear all debris. They also say any paint to be removed and in some cases scabbling or pressure wash the wall, The way we use the slurry is to render the wall first and then apply 2 coats of this to the render. We also have a compressor to spray on the slurry. There is a product called NatCem 35 which is a pre mixed render and this by passes the need to use the slurry as it is waterproof and sets in an hour. They use this in the tube in London for repairs. Hope this helps have a great Sunday

[@majorleaguegamer1160]

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW I am using this to stop moister coming through from the cavity as I’m sure there is debris is there from when when brick work was originally done, it is just a precaution, I am also applying a cream dpc in case it is rising from the bottom

[@stephencookie9678]

I have an idea. Can I ask your take on it? Using insta stik and say pink grip. Remove bonding above what seems to be a attempt to retain a damp issue ( internal but historical back wall) the botton part as what I would imagine is a waterproof render. ( if it had a damp course injected its not worked. ( need to check behind some full length kitchen cupboards as there are some rad pipes coming out the wall at very top and might possibly be leaking?? ) And fix tile foam board rather than plasterboard filling the gap around to stop it bridging. As the has requested covering with beadboard. And was going to prime front and back with B.I.N primer before sticking to the render and foam board. And then I'll paint and finish the skirting and the top edge.

[@dampsam]

Don’t really understand this Stephen iv no context , not sure if your on about the video or the system in general

[@stephencookie9678]

@@dampsamsorry wasting your time. I'll try again! I was just trying to explain what I thought the history of the problem/task I've be asked to sort. My question is can you see a reason why I can't use tile foam board rather than plasterboard as I'm covering with treated beadboard mdf as paneling. Only doing removing area above the waterproof rendered! The rendered area which at the bottom 1m² in size . As above they have used bonding and is 25% moisture. And think i best remove and replace in a similar way you in the chip. I've be asked simply to cover with panelling which will just rot if I don't improve and replace the sodden old bonding first. As the moisture will be still in the wall. Is that any clearer! 🙏

[@brethren4life152]

i once tried this in my younger years when i was green and didnt know better, the board got damp and rotted from the back. he should have used tanking slurry prior to boarding or better tanking slurry x 2 applications then bond and skim when dry.

[@dampsam]

I imaging you didn’t used the system I used, Drygrip is waterproof you probably used drywall .

[@nisarzaman]

Hi I've realised today I have damp in my living on the side wall which I'm sharing with my neighbour.should I use your method by removing plaster and cleaning the wall and basically just use plaster board and acrylic gripper with foam filler?

[@dampsam]

Time Lord if you feel confident you can do it then yes, check the plaster thickness when the plaster is off and make sure the board does not bridge on any side.

[@Johnboy59918]

Id be looking at what is causing your damp first, or most likely condensation. This is from someone who was going to get ripped off 3 grand for a dpc injection which all that was wrong was my ground levels were to high around the building. dropped levels and by summer damp was gone.

[@nisarzaman]

J P Hi What do you mean your ground levels were to high and how did you drop them, thanks in advance.

[@Johnboy59918]

Look at your dpc in the brickwork, see if any paths on drives are under 150mm from it? if they are drop me a message, also look under your subfloor if timber, and any shit under there clean it out and check your airbricks are functioning to provide airflow under floor. most terrace property's are due to braindead council workers raising levels to high.

[@dampsam]

I think I must look younger than I am or peter does because I thought we were around the same age. Nice speaking with you Bepee have a great Christmas 🎄

[@adamdisley1189]

What use is the acrylic dabs? The damp can transfer from the foam to the board.

[@dampsam]

Hello Adam, the acrylic is from safeguard and its part of their drywall system, the instastik is waterproof.

[@globalforcesclashing2333]

Both will create a bridge to a plasterboard that in your video has no way of keeping moisture away

[@dampsam]

there is no bigger bridge than solid plaster and both methods work and are guaranteed.

[@adamdisley1189]

Even though the acrylic dab is waterproof it’s still creating a bridge, for the water to travel across.,this definitely won’t work. What a load of nonsense.

[@dampsam]

Adam Disley feel free to email me and put your arguments but Read BS6576 and you will see the replastering is to stop decoration spoil while the wall returns to equilibrium after the installation of the DPC. It works and comes with a 10 year guarantee

[@juancarlosjaramillopaz7013]

Thanks Simon for you video weldone

[@ntochiv]

Whats a fair price for this work?

[@dampsam]

Every area and person is different

[@soldier-Dave]

As soon as you mentioned damp proof course you made this video a classic wally damproofer video. To save me explaining watch Peter ward videos on KZbin.!

[@dampsam]

Djt 8543 Anytime you want to sit down with me and explain your comments I’ll make time, I’ll even buy your drinks and get you a bun. You won’t though will you, trolls tend to just comment from the comfort of the keyboard. Have you commented on Peters videos? No because he won’t let you. Feel free to use mine ☝️

[@soldier-Dave]

@@dampsam for your information you can comment on Peter ward videos! Which goes to show you haven’t learnt from a professional otherwise you wouldn’t be posting misinformation. Thanks for the invite to tea and buns but no thanks I’ve some more lime pointing to be doing!

[@dampsam]

@@soldier-Dave non of the ones Iv watched let you comment but to be fair Iv not seen them all. Happy pointing ☝️

[@user-cn1em2qx6f]

@@soldier-Davepeter ward doesn’t show solutions just picks faults with everything he wants everyone to live like the victorians did. hes a nob