The Body Work Begins | Project Mosquito Ep104 | Father and Son Home Built Supercar

[@dlux703]

I'm trying to understand why you've gone to all this trouble when you could have laid up FRP right around the edge of the glass with a wax paper mask to release it, and you'd have a windscreen surround already. Some pieces of cardboard box could have been taped to the glass to extend the surface for your layup all round the perimeter. Now you still need to make the styrofoam useable with resin, without losing the detailed contours that match the glass.

[@newagetemplar6100]

3:15 … have faith father 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂. Man that made me giggle , brings back memories. Alternatively PVA then wax the back of your screen , then lay up GRP on the back . Once cured bond the new profile into the shell , job done . Body filler will dissolve your styrene foam , as will most solvent base paints. Just before Xmas I sent you an email ( starting with evolution) I’ll happily give you advice to make life easier. Happy new year ….

[@michaelweare4353]

🦟🦟🦟🦟 There is no wrong way to accomplish what you’re doing, this is just one way of a hundred that could work. Looking great gents, keep up the great work.

[@Anne6621]

the fact that this is a father son project is the best part and so lucky to have captured this in video , unlike back in my day it was choppy home movies no sound

[@matthewweinle8639]

Thanks!

[@OliverPickard]

Thank you Matthew!

[@arronjones6985]

This seems a really hard way of doing something simple. I'd have used wax sheet on the front side if the screen to give you your a surface and then glassed a strip all the way round in a replacement for the foam. Half way through you could and some material to reinforce and then glass over. Done. You could either use it as a buck or if you're carful you could use it as your panel.

[@tinkerbell2606]

Yeh someone else who watches crab tanks on you tube soo special. Great to see the progress very funny. fantastic interaction. now I just cannot wait to see what happens next week 🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟

[@leehodgetts2277]

There is a far easier way to do this, all you need is sheet wax. Stick the sheet wax to the rear of the screen to create the shape and depth of the profile that you need and then laminate over it. Sheet wax is available in lots of different thickness and is easy to cut with a craft knife. This is how we used to do it for the concept car models at TVR 👍🏻

[@jamesdeath3477]

I was also wondering why they didn't mould directly off the screen.

[@webstergough3379]

Looking good , I made ducting in and out of my radiator out of XPS foam , carved it to shape then covered it with masking tape then a layer of packaging tape. Then three layers of fiberglass and I then smashed / melted the foam out due to the shape of the ducting not allowing the foam pattern out in one piece. I was told by a friend who's a fiberglasser to use the masking tape /packaging tape and it worked really well. good luck

[@hicostlocost]

I was working on a seat mold with an XPS base and the heat from body filler made the foam sink a bit. I'm sure you guys will put it on thin enough that it won't be a problem and the adhesive you applied this week will reduce the chance somewhat, but it's something to consider. What a great way to build out the compound curved mold, though.

[@federicojpp]

Man this is craftmanship at the highest level, this is how a full custom build should be. I love I can see the whole process

[@monkeybase01]

Please test your foamboard how it reacts to solvents (styrene) if you plan to pull a mold from it or use it moldless (which is the way to go in this case) . If it reacts, you have to first coat it with a water based coating or what I do is use alu tape, at a DIY store it's pretty expensive, but in a ship supply shop it should be a lot more affordable. The blue type used to work with polyester, idk about the purple foam boards.

[@matthewweinle8639]

Ah, pink foam (plus brown paper finish) the go to material for large scale model aircraft construction...🦟

[@skyfreakwi]

As soon as I saw the table saw I thought composite foam! If you just cut the windshield relief into a pile of foam profile strips and then cut the rest into 1/4 thick strips you could cover the edge with the profiled strips then back it with multiple strips of the 1/4 inch stuff. Think plywood. Think skateboard deck! Multiple compound curves in all different directions and stiff. Keep it in mind if you have to do another window or whatever. Ps. I have glassed over spray foam. No melting with polyester binding brand resin. Spray it on, sand your profile out of it and apply resin and glass. Then sweep up foam for 36 hours! This way is probably better. I'm sure you probably could bondo over this foam for a surface coat but your drywall compound will be easier to sand. PPS. Not sure if this could help but I once took a vintage race bike fairing and covered it with reinforced packing tape. First layer sticky side out... Then 3 or 8 layers sticky side in. I traced a cut line and was able to send a near perfect reproduction of a TZ 750 fairing down to the guy that makes the wind screens. It was flimsy and could have been reinforced but it got the job done. Look up the bike and you'll see the insane shape I had to send down to him and that anything is possible using this technique!

[@winlinuser]

As usual, loving the attention to detail and the skill being displayed. 🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟

[@MikeSchmidt-qt7ls]

The guys building Jigsaw would be so amazed by your project

[@mlsatke]

Epoxy resin won't melt the expanded foam. The polyester resin will melt it.

[@lennym1636]

I used that foam before and found the heat from the fiberglass going off would melt the foam we ended up having to cover every inch of the roam with some layers of masking tape.🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟

[@OzGecko]

Great progress. I assume there's some more cross bracing and structure to come before you remove the mould from the screen? It certainly won't maintain its shape the way it is. I'm about to launch into making a screen frame for my project but it'll be alumnium angle bent into shape using a shrinker/stretcher for the glue lip the screen sits on, with all that riveted inside a beefier ali structure and steel windscreen posts (roadster so no roof). Look forward to seeing where the next video takes us.

[@peterdlynes]

Love what you are doing. Keep believing in your system.

[@srowe829]

Say that 10 times fast lol. Whatever works is the spirit. Keep up the good work. Our car is looking good.

[@S50Sinner]

I've used XPS foam to make diorama ground-planes, it takes really well to being carved, shaped and textured, handles many types of glue without dissolving, and also works great with mold-release for when we poured a silicone mold of it. It'll be great for when/if you make a fiberglass mold around it. I would also suggest, if you'd like to save money, that you make the negative molds out of duroplast - it's made the same way as fiberglass, but with cotton fabric instead. It's not as light or as strong, but it's stronger than plastic or epoxy alone, and would be great for low-cost, non-structural bits. I've used old T-shirts and 2-part epoxy to fix many plastic gizmos that have broken around the house and in cars I've had in the past, and it's held up great, even on a high-pressure power steering line. I've got a few shirts saved that I use to try to color-match whatever I'm fixing at the moment, black shirts on black components and so forth. It's great stuff, though I'm not too sure about its stiffness, if that's crucial for your molds.

[@gafrers]

Great work, explantion and humor as always

[@myopinion69420]

when you said you were going to make a buck with leftover roof insulation, I was picturing the fiberglass batts type. I was thinking you were going to make some sort of frame, put the batts in it, wet it out with resin an then push the glass into in (covered with something obviously) and then going around with a bit more resin and fiberglass to make sure you have a good edge. but this probably works better. (not even sure if fiberglass batts will suck up the resin or not, I assume they would, but it might do what fairy/candy floss does when wet)

[@manicmechanic6406]

I am guessing the wheel arch are a long way in the future but looking forward to see what in you hard

[@michaelmoore1403]

🦟🦟🦟🦟I used XPS for making gliders and model truck bodies for my kids when they were young. I found PU wood glue the best for joining it. otherwise it shapes really well using rasps and sand paper.

[@davidyendoll5903]

🦟Best of luck !

[@mikecrane2782]

Back in the day, I used "Polyskim" a DIY plaster like emulsion paint, this stop xylenes from softening my foam models. It was easily sanded and very inert, good be painted, and have release agent applied to it. Nowadays, they are much better water based spray or roller products that will do the same.

[@milescarter7803]

14:28 I have a pair of those pliers, they are properly antique now 😂. I picked them up at a garage sale.

[@markkneill-boxley7434]

We made a full size mountain gorilla in foam as a fundraiser for the DFGF many years ago. Unfortunately we had to strip the bench seat from the Astra every time we did an event to fit him in🤣

[@trevorwoods2580]

You don't need to use body filler just cover it with silver foil tape and then fiberglass over the tape works really well.

[@paolonieri473]

You can do it more simply than that putting some cardboard all around the border of the window (on the exterior side) and appling some calibrated wax (on the interior side) as offset, after that you apply the fiberglass on that; this way you realize directly the piece you need (without making a mold)

[@twinturbo1989]

Will it be done before Binky?

[@jan_mohorko]

Its so weird to hear "you" in german when the video starts. I always rush to switch to original after leaving my confusion behind 😂

[@larsnielsen3336]

🦟 Love your videos. Only drawback : It makes me miss my departed dad, ever so terribly 🦟

[@lotuselanplus2s]

5 minute epoxy resin will work also. NOT POLYESTER RESIN.

[@hutchdw77]

Gorilla Glue would probably work better than PVA wood glue.

[@timhooper5404]

PVA will work just fine on foam styrene it has been used to laminate this foam for 50 years successfully!

[@stephengent9974]

Give Oliver a Blue Peter badge. PVA glue is not good

[@philfromsalisbury4538]

Why not make it from fibreglass ???

[@fredericrike5974]

Oliver, that is the most dis kabab ulated I have ever seen you! You OK?

[@filsmyth2]

cue Morgan Page featuring Tegan and Sara

[@filsmyth2]

also why are we waiting 🤔

[@manicmechanic6406]

Fog tank KZbin? So meney comment? But not from

[@mikaeltillenius8751]

14.400

[@nathansandwich5579]

❤🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟

[@stephennixon6698]

🦟🏎️ ❤

[@lukebranco3685]

🦟 🦟 🦟 🦟

[@giulianomarco]

Ve are Hans und Franz, und ve vill pump you up! 😁👍🦟

[@nathanshobe]

🦟🦟🦟🦟 The only project I've tackled with that foam insulation is using a sheet of it as a base for a graveyard scene for a trunk-or-treat event. A great father son project I did with my kid. Used 3M Super77 for not just attaching the moss, but also for a fantastic spider-web effect across the moss as well. But the first think I thought of when you showed the insulation on screen was when @JimLill made a guitar speaker cab out of it (worked stupidly well if I'm honest). 🦟🦟🦟🦟

[@hedrives]

Curious why you didn’t use toothpicks? Happy new year from near Aspen, CO, US. 🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟

[@herpa7368]

Thats like 8genar. of 🦟

[@fredrikbreivald388]

🦟🦟🦟🦟

[@midlandsfloorspringslimite1282]

🦟

[@huhwhatisthishandle]

🦟

[@Thatdavemarsh]

🦟

[@mlsatke]

🦟🦟🦟

[@robprather6469]

🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟

[@gregophall9004]

🦟🦟🦟🦟

[@bake162]

🦟🦟🦟