The Cam I Always Get Asked About! L31 Budget Build Update (L31 Build Part 5)

Cam is Picked! An update on the L31 budget build. This is going to be the lowest budget SBC Ive ever built! Cant wait to Dyno it!
Comment below on what you think of the cam choice
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[@evanarthur7535]

Sure would be nice nice to have a larger quench pad on those stock pistons. Also, bake that timing chain in some moly lube for a hour at 200 degrees. Virtually eliminates chain stretch. That’s a tip from page 89 in a book called Small Block Chevy Performance by Dave Emanuel. Published by HP books in 1992.

[@chrisreynolds6520]

~400 hp @ 5,500 and 430 tq @ 4,000 rpm with a performer Q-Jet intake and an 80s truck 850cfm Q-Jet is about what I have found with 3 different Hotcam L31s. I just put together a L31 with a factory LT1 rotating assembly and a GM 6492 hydraulic roller cam. The 6492 cam was $110 new shipped. The 6492 is very similar to the old Crane 2032 and was used in the 340 hp marine engines. I put Hooker 2.5" manifolds and a ProFlow 4 4150 style EFI I scored at Summit for $1200 new on it. A little head work and 1094 head gaskets. It is also a single roller chain that I reused with 110K on it as it was in perfect shape with no slop and I put a set of used Jegs 1.6 roller rockers I had laying around on it. LS6 springs on 787 retainers. Its going into an 87 G20 van with a TH400 with the stock ~2,000 rpm converter and 3.08 gears, so it needs to have some torque. I always use a Mellings M99HVS oil pump on a small block. It is a stock volume big block pump with a matching pickup for a small block and the steel sleeved driveshaft and install it on an ARP stud. The stock volume, high pressure big block pump (I use the Red L88 spring) works better than a high volume small block pump and takes less power to turn. I use a larger 5qt pan (7qts total with a 2qt C60 truck filter) for a 3500 Express van application and a milidon windage tray that goes 1 main cap further than the stock vortec tray which requires 2 more main cap studs.

[@classicwefi]

LT4 hot cam that awesome I'm running one in my 92 c1500. It has .030 over flatop pistons the block was zero decked running blueprint engines 195 aluminum heads , Edelbrock EPS vortec intake. I do really like the LT4 hot cam it has great driveablity. I have a old hotrod article from 1997 they ran a iron head LT1 with a carb intake and the hot cam made 420 hp 430 tq.

[@cuttersperformance]

Ive seen vastly different dyno results with this cam (From less than 350 hp to 420 hp) so I will be curious to see what we can get out of it.

[@chrisreynolds6520]

​​@@cuttersperformance the ones I have done are about 400 hp and 430 tq. The CarCraft article was 401 hp @ 5,600 and 428 tq @ 4,200. It will really wake it up. 350 hp is way low for the combination even if you used the garbage mexican heads. The little tiny 196/206 @ 0.050 GM 395 cam cranks out 350+ hp in a stock L31 tested without accessories and with headers.

[@conservativecrusader80]

@@cuttersperformance Hey I just found a channel right up your alley. The name of the channel is Nyle Green. He has a really nice '66-67 Chevy Nova and he has built 5(!) different combos of Vortec headed engines over the past winter and he is installing them one by one into his car testing them for 1/8 and 1/4 mile times, tweaking them to optimize them then pulling it out and putting in the next one which should be a little better until the last one being a 408ci that should be the best. I immediately thought of you and all the Vortec headed work you do.

[@James-jn3rb]

Im building almost an identical vortec headed engine, only mine will be a 385. I had the heads converted to 8mm stem .100 valves , 202 160, with 26915 Comp behives. Im having the block decked .015 and am using KB claimer pistons on 6in. Rods. The cam will be a Summit 8802. Should be a good runner in my 71 GMC.

[@conservativecrusader80]

@@James-jn3rb Sounds like a really interesting build, I looked at the summit 8802 cam and everything looked like it'd be good for your engine with the exception of the LSA being 112 degrees. That seems very wide and the wider the LSA the more it moves the power peak further up into the rpm band, you said it was going into a 71 gmc and I'm assuming your not planning on revving it to the moon either. David Vizard has YT channel discussing this and he practically wrote the book (he actually has) on everything high performance. Anyway I think you'd be best served with a LSA no wider than a 108 but 107 would probably be best otherwise you'll sacrifice alot of low-end torque which you want.

[@JoseHernandez-mu3ys]

I had an l31 vortec on my 74 c10 with a tiny 218 cam. At full weight with stock suspension it went 13.0 and 11.9 with a 150 shot of nitrous. Very impressive engines for how well they run with small cams

[@cuttersperformance]

Impressive times for a mild cam

[@davisbrian2912]

I have 1 880 motor trying to do the same been getting a lot of good ideas from you and some other KZbin videos thanks again brother keep them coming

[@chehystpewpur4754]

lunati makes an efi roller cam thats perfect for these motors. power off idle works with stock valve springs and pulls great to redline idles good and runs fantastic. the lunati cam is .450 lift right at the limit but it makes more power than the gm hot cam and also more torque so you have a very good running motor after and it still picks up gas mileage over stock so theres that too.

[@ronniecox109]

The 880 blocks are great ,and you can run a roller cam ,and use the factory roller lifters and dog bone set up..

[@gearhead7896]

I really believe in DV's 128 rule. That rule applied here the cam would need to be on a 107/108 LSA. Going to the wider 112 LSA leaves a good amount of torque lost, even with a smaller @.050 duration (within reason).

[@cuttersperformance]

I agree that there will certainly be a loss in torque for sure compared to tighter LSA. I have some other combos in the works, and it will be interesting to compare dyno results, cranking compression, and idle vac on these combos

[@craig8187]

Keep it in perspective, yes there will be a little more tq and maybe hp with a tighter LSA , but that's only relevant to WOT peak figures so thats great if its a strip engine or weekend warrior. That tighter LSA(and the subsequent overlap) then makes that engine less drivable at partial throttle, will accumulate more exhaust deposits on the intake valve and port, be more sensitive to detonation due to the higher light throttle chamber temps and in almost all cases will be less efficient at partial throttle as compared tonthe wider LSA. So if 10/15 lb of tq is all that matters, yes tighter lsa but if best 'all round' performance AND driveability matter no tue tighter lsa is not what is needed. Also consider that the tigher the lsa(or more overlap be it from lsa or duration) the more sensitive the engine becomes to exhaust system flow quality. Less overlap(wider lsa or less duration) is less affected by a poor exhaust system design, so that narrow lsa cam engine with 10 lb more tq on the dyno woth open headers then loses that gain and more with a similar budget exhaust in a vehicle as compared to the wide lsa version but the narrow lsa version then also drives worse everywhere due to the overlap and poor exhaust. Look at this as a 'whole combo package deal' everything must match your application or you end up with sub standard performance. Nice work PCP 👍

[@gregpratt1007]

I agree with both of you but you can also just retarded to him for degrees and that would help on the bottom end without sacrificing too much top end I understand it's not changing the LSA but it will give you more bottom and towards without sacrificing any top end or mid-range torque are sacrificing any top in horsepower

[@gregtheegg3576]

I have 3 l31s... one in my tahoe, one n my boat, and the spare. The lt4 hot cam upgrade has been on my (back of) mind for years now. wtf...one just falls in ur lap? Yes, I'm just kidding, but sitting on the edge of my seat now for part 6!!!

[@peskypeet]

I knew a person who ran that cam in a crate 350 with unported GM aluminum heads and the GM copy of the Performer RPM with a 4779 750. Used a th350 with a Hughes 3500 converter with 4.10 gear and 28x9 M/T drag slicks. In a 73 Nova it ran 12:40- 50's pretty consistently in weekly bracket racing for points. It had the bench seat and full interior but had the mat for carpeting and he took out the crash sftuff behind the bumpers.

[@Tinman97301]

Wow, looks like that thing is gonna rock and roll

[@bigal878]

This budget engine sounds like a good little combo. I like the specs on the LT4 hot cam to 👍🏻 🇦🇺

[@zAvAvAz]

awesome . the puzzle comes together.

[@andrewthompson7793]

Greetings from northern ireland. You are building my exact engine im building. 880 block vortec heads lt4 hot cam and ls springs 😂 keep up the good work

[@cuttersperformance]

Thanks brother! Appreciate the support and positive feedback. Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦

[@phantom309ish]

i have run the lt4 hot cam in 2 gen 2 motors i did use 1.6 rollers and 1.5 stock rockers it has a very mild lope,. lots of torque and revs quick,.great buy on your part,

[@Carl_Jr]

Dude! Pat! You rock! Always love your videos! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. It's always a pleasure watching you explain things in layman's terms. I mean, I know a lot of the technical mumbojumbo but it's not always necessary. You do a great job of keeping it real.

[@cuttersperformance]

Appreciate that, thank you

[@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852]

Great score on the camshaft! Would love to see what the factory Vortec cam would do with a set of 1.72:1 roller rockers. Would make it a .475"/.491" lift also for every .1:1 of rocker ratio increase you get another 2° of duration@ .050". So that would give the factory cam a boost another 4° per lobe to IIRC 195°/200° @ .050" from 191°/196° Reusing the factory cam would be the most budget friendly. The 1.72:1 rockers are the biggest ratio rockers I could find made for a sbc. Would be cool to see these vs factory stamp steel rockers with the factory cam. If you can find a higher ratio sbc rocker that would be even better to see. Or if you have access to Iron Duke 4 cylinder stamp steel rockers, those are 1.75:1 ratio. Not sure if they would interchange with sbc rockers though? These would get it to .483"/.499" plus 1° more duration@.050" to 196°/201° if they would work? This would be very budget minded because most guys wouldn't want to remove the press in studs that are needed with lifts over .500".

[@cuttersperformance]

Yeah I couldn't believe it when I figured out what the cam actually was, just such good timing to get it. That would be interesting with a stock cam, but probably pretty weak in HP to most guys standards even with some aggressive rocker arms

[@frankjones4094]

I respectfully disagree.You might want to rethink the 1.72's adding duration. The lifter still starts up the lobe ramp from base circle at the same degree of crank rotation. The longer rocker only increases valve lift speed and overall lift. I have wanted to try 1.7 rockers on a stock engine also. I don't want to give up compression with added duration. Thanks.

[@chrisreynolds6520]

​​​​​​@@frankjones4094 you are wrong with your thoughts respectfully. A higher ratio rocker will not change the overall seat to seat duration at lash point, however it will add duration at every other lift point along the curve. Going from a 1.5 to a 1.7 adds about 4-5* @ 0.050 at the valve tip where it matters. By adding lift using the higher ratio, the whole lobe becomes larger from the added ratio. I also would not waste my time with the stock L31 cam. It is garbage, it was terrible in my Express van that came factory with it. I swapped the stock cam for a Comp 206/210 on a 110 lsa and 108 ICL with 0.484 lift with 1.6 rockers and that van was a different vehicle entirely. After the cam upgrade it actually had power to pass quickly on a 2-lane road and would actually rev up to the 5,000 rpm shift points at WOT without having to back off the pedal and let it shift.

[@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852]

@@cuttersperformance Well here's the deal why I asked this is because I had a sbc factory roller cammed Vortec 305 in a 3,600 LB car backed by a 700R4 and a 3.73 rear gear that would do consistent 14.0s in the QM @ 98 mph. Not a land speed record but a whole second faster than a lot of the warmed over sbc 350 guys in a similar weight car. The only thing I did to that engine was light pocket porting, 1.6:1 roller rockers with the factory cam topped with an RPM Airgap and a crappy 600 Edelbrock 4bbl carb. So do you think it was the gearing that made it run that good or the engine or the combo of both? IMO the factory cam with the low compression pistons is a good match, even better with more lift and a bit more duration? @Frank Jones Well you will have to take your disagreements to David Vizard where I learned that info. That is the name of his yt channel, look him up he wrote the book on head porting and several other books on how to make power on certain engine platforms. He's an actual engineer not a journalist like some people mistake him to be. Let me try to explain it before you get in an argument with a race car Icon. Think of the extra rocker ratio transforming a small cam lobe into something fatter and taller than it really is, just like what the factory ratio does. That 1.5:1 ratio not only makes the peak higher than what the lobe lift is it makes every point of contact higher is how even more ratio than the factory ratio gives a cam more lift AND how it gives more duration as well. The extra height on both sides of the nose makes it wider than the factory ratio does increasing the duration of how long the valve is opened over the nose. I hope this helps visualize how the extra ratio also increases duration?

[@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852]

@@chrisreynolds6520 The duration increase isn't much more than what the factory cam is, I suspect the lift is what helped get the cylinders filled more so than the 15*/14* extra duration. The closer the lift is to the max flow the better the cylinders will fill. The factory untouched max flow is right there @ .500" lift. Ideally if the cam has an about .515" lift is perfect for how a factory untouched sbc Vortec head would give the most flow. What makes the factory cam so lackluster is the bean counter low lift so they could save .10c on a set of valve springs! 1.9:1 rockers would work great with the factory L31 cam if they made that ratio for a sbc that didn't break the bank What did you do so the keepers didn't crash into the valve seals?

[@chrisreynolds6520]

Holley makes an inexpensive aluminum cover that fits the L31 block and offers it with and without the crank position sensor hole machined. I have used 3 of then now and they are a really nice piece. I had to find a way to do away with the plastic covers yet keep the cam sensor for the 4x or 24x reluctor wheels because they will not last 2 years in the Texas heat on a L31 without warping and leaking. I have a couple of these L31s running on D585 LS coils.

[@jjmccloud]

Its around $60, not terribly priced but only really needed if you prefer the aluminum vs plastic. Neither will allow a double roller though unfortunately. You can buy the plastic covers with the sensor hole plugged or not drilled out as well

[@chrisreynolds6520]

@@jjmccloud problem I have with the plastic one is they do not last more than 2-3 years before they warp and start leaking.

[@jjmccloud]

@@chrisreynolds6520 i think it depends on who makes them, the oem ones have been decent but the other cheaper brands I've noticed do warp and leak pretty easy. The aluminum are great for durability I just wish you could fit a double roller behind them

[@chrisreynolds6520]

@@jjmccloud the single rollers are better than a crappy double roller in every way imaginable. The covers that leaked were OEM GM.

[@jjmccloud]

@@chrisreynolds6520 sounds like your luck is just shit 🤣

[@oldsrocket8456]

I had the plastic timing cover without the extra bolt holes for it I just drilled and tapped the following 2 holes and for the dowel pins I took a drill bit the same size as the holes on the timing cover and cut them with a wheel and knocked them into the block to hold my timing cover up and used e6000 glue to set them in worked like a charm harmonic balancer instead of a 6 inch I went 8 inch sfi approved liquid dampener

[@utahcountypicazospage5412]

I always like cams with 6-10 split over single pattern cams in my opinion.under rated camshaft forsure

[@oldsrocket8456]

I’m doing a 98 vortec l31 swap in my 84 cutlass i upgraded springs cut down the stud bosses 7/16th screw in studs 7 degree locks guide plates for pushrods 1.6 comp aluminum rockers roller tip I got rid of that self align bs flattop pistons got it bored to 3.55 lt4 hot cam from gm perfomance im putting her together now air gap intake manifold holly double pumper 650cfm 3 inch exsaust flowmasters from front to back and long tube headers trust n believe ima run these Camaros for their money this summer

[@cuttersperformance]

That sounds like a nice setup! 👌

[@mediumjumbo7484]

What a deal on that cam ! 👍👍👍👍👍

[@oldvsnew3400]

I was gonna go 8803 but decided on the k 1103 cam for edelbrock 600 I got. Another good lt4 alternative is the melling 22280 cam but it's got a 110 lobe sep. And I think more duration.

[@cuttersperformance]

Ive used the 22280 a few times, good street cam

[@oldvsnew3400]

I had that on the s10 frame mustang with the vortec head 400 small block. I changed it out for the radical edelbrock Rollin thunder cam. Not the 470/490 lift one but the 530/540 something lift version.

[@timmygun1]

Hey Pat. I happen to have the same cam. It's funny. I got a brand new one for 75 bucks. Haven't run it yet. But I want to. Great video. Looking forward to the build

[@DynoDave43]

LT4 hot cam...this will be interesting!

[@jimmy_olds]

That’s a pretty tight LSA for an off the shelf GM grind

[@keithtobin5369]

Play love your videos keep them coming. Semper Fi

[@joeyjojojr.shabadoo915]

I guess if machining costs aren't something you need to worry about in terms of rod resizing it might make sense to spend $150 CAD on ARP hardware for your re-Man'd Rods. At what point do you call it and simply opt for a set of sub-$500 CAD set of Chineesium 7/16" Rod Bolt H-Beams that come with new 8740 cap screws ? Only if hanging new Pistons that will require a rotating assembly rebalance anyway ? Curious to hear your thoughts. My first home rebuild was back in '93 when I did my first SBC swapped S10 (when every dollar mattered for the project) with a 3 blade hone and re-using literally everything but rings, oil pump, cam/springs, intake. I miss those days of "budgets". Being an adult makes you able to stretch everything, including simple budgets when you talk yourself into it.

[@jerrymendoza4384]

I like we're this is going. Wouldn't mind doing this upgrade on my 355 blueprint vortec engine.

[@cuttersperformance]

Thanks jerry!

[@Oleblueburban]

I’m already going to guess dyno results. HP=398 Tq=418

[@chrisreynolds6520]

~400 hp and ~430 tq is mine.

[@zAvAvAz]

i guess 395hp and 418 tq peaks with a fat punchy driving band, a gm performance idle sound, and a good amount of vacuum. With a vortec EPS intake if they make one.

[@Teamvalkyrietv]

Finally answers to this cam question lol

[@GMC4240]

The summit 8802 and 8803 seem like budget options that have similar specs to the lt4 hotcam, curious to see how Vortec heads would react withi that range of lift and a 112 lsa. With a proper port job they should flow decent up to .520 for the 8802 and with a 1.6 exhaust maybe go with the 8803?

[@cuttersperformance]

I used the 8803 in the KZbin 355 with cheap aluminum heads. Worked well and idled with lots of vaccum. Its a great boost cam when I added the turbo. They are quality cams

[@chrisreynolds6520]

I have run the LPE 74211 in a couple of trucks and the LPE 74219 in a F-car all with modified Vortecs or Etec170s. Those mild Lingenfelter cams run great and make power that would not be expected from such a short duration. Lingenfelter did not grind any cam advance into those cams.

[@iDrive4fun93]

I got the Summit 8800 in mine. It’s got some lope, and makes great linear power on stock vortec heads, and has plenty of clearance with the stock valvetrain. I gotta pull the heads to put new valve seals in, so I think I might drop the heads off at a machine shop and get the valve guides machined down, some porting and polishing, and run a 1.6 rocker instead of the stock 1.5s for more lift. With the 1.5s I get 204/214 at 050 with .450/.450 lift, with 1.6s I will get .480/.480 lift. It’s a great mild cam, I love it so far.

[@msh6865]

Wow, that's a ridiculously good price on that cam. They're very pricey...when you can find them. Isn't the max lift possible with stock Vortec heads pretty close to the .525 on that LT4 cam? Expect any clearance issues? FYI, I bet Competition Products offers a very similar grind in their Howards line. But, not for $60!

[@cuttersperformance]

I will be making a video on how we are gettting that lift out of the heads and what valve springs ect

[@richardpalko8062]

Are you going to use GM part # roller lifters with that LT -4 HOT Cam ? ? ? Other viewers might want to know that also . Thanks for the video .

[@kevindrury8390]

I have a few of the marine roller cams, pretty good cam

[@daniel202010]

Check out the Luella s10 in my videos that's a lt4 hotcam knockoff and I absolutely roasted the tires it liked I think it was a 3000 stall in my s10

[@briankhargrove]

I'm about to pull my L31 out of a 2 door Tahoe for a complete update and rebuild. Love this series and hope I can learn something on this first time rebuild. I've seen videos of others getting up to 447 or 400+ hp. Curious if that is possible with your current build and hot cam setup. I'm starting to shop parts and confused as hell so let me know if you have recommendations.

[@jjmccloud]

Nothing to it, probably 1 of the easiest engines to build and make gains with. This channel alone can provide a large amount of the info u need

[@mwyson4095]

I got 600,000 miles out of stock rods without reconditioning, still running.

[@fbbc6495]

Cool good info thanks

[@SteveBrown-fv9hf]

Hi Jay Appreciate your videos, I am sure you have save me lots of trial and error. Basics: 355 sbc, Enforcer 195 heads. 10.2 comp. Originally ZZ4 cam, switched to Sum 8802. I thought I heard you mentioned about noise from the High Energy 17001 roller rockers. I have the annoying ticking even after carefully readjusting the preload. Is there a part that is similar quality but quieter? Thanks

[@tchapps88]

Arp rod bolts is money well spent, destroyed 2 stock rod stock rod bolt engines by going past 6000rpm

[@conservativecrusader80]

I was rewatching a porting vid you did on Vortec heads and I was curious if you could run an LS 2.00" intake valve in place of the stock 1.94". I'm not sure if the lengths are the same of even the diameter I know they are fairly lightweight 7mm stems I think and a guy could probably get a whole set used pretty cheap or for free! Just a thought, I love thinking about little tweaks to make them better.

[@cuttersperformance]

You could add LS valves, but the guides would have to be redone to 8mm stems and then the seats cut to accommodate. The would be great size for vortecs with some porting to take advantage of the larger diameter and the LS valves are much lighter. The only downside would be the cost of machine work. You would certainly have some time and money invested once you're done

[@mikewymer69]

Pat, did you ever post the specs on the Howards cam you had ground?

[@cuttersperformance]

No thats a totally different build I haven't showed you guys yet. Hint- hint.. its another vortec headed combo lol

[@sitosautomotive]

Nice!

[@CleanSlate612]

Do you have to upgrade springs and lifters to run a LT4 HotCam in the L31

[@Inlinetodie]

Hello, I have a 1999 suburban, 5.7, L31, has the 062 heads, first time it's being rebuilt, wondering if I can just bolt on 906 or do I need the intake for the 906 heads? My 062s cracked, engine is at 270 000kms

[@cuttersperformance]

Yeah, they are virtually the same, but some 906s have press in exhaust valve seats. I have a video on it if you want to check it out

[@Inlinetodie]

@PISS-CUTTER Performance Hi, I ordered off of Summit Racing, figured it was better and safer overall. Do you have a video on the Summit Vortecs heads installation? Thank you for responding

[@cuttersperformance]

@i i dont have a video on those, but I plan on using a set on a 407 SBC build coming up

[@fastyzzzff]

It's in the magazines. HOT HOT HOT CAM 1.6 ROLLERROCKERS DECK THE BLOCK.425HP 440TRQ. GREAT RECIPE

[@fastyzzzff]

I did hyd flat tappet.1.6 rockers zero deck. Butt dyno it rocks

[@tomrose6292]

Dave vizart says 108°lsa is the only lsa to run its the best for every situation

[@hankclingingsmith8707]

Until you get into the 500 cubic inch range

[@landon7927]

This may be a dumb question, but I have a 96 Tahoe with the 5.7 Vortec and I wanna run the COMP Cams Magnum 280H Hydraulic
Flat Tappet Camshaft Small Kit Lift:
.480".480", Duration: 280°/280°, RPM
Range: 2000-6000 with blue ls6 springs, a 3k stall, and upgrade the rods/pistons. Will this work with fuel injection or will I need to do a carb swap?

[@cuttersperformance]

Not a dumb question. A larger cam will require tuning and a intake/injector upgrade might be needed as the stock vortec intake is not very high flowing

[@chrisreynolds6520]

@@cuttersperformance Vortec intake flows well enough to make ~450 hp.

[@clarksgarageofbadhabits6803]

@@chrisreynolds6520Man I see you everywhere lol. I’ve gotten great info from you as well, including the piece you just shared!

[@cheol1250]

When you installed your lt4 hot cam did add advance to it 2 or 4 degrees?

[@cuttersperformance]

Installed straight up, I will have to check my notes from when I degreed in, but I believe it had no advance ground in and installed at 112

[@cheol1250]

I noticed most have been installing them at 2 to 4 degrees advanced.

[@chrisreynolds6520]

@@cheol1250 The ones I have messed with drop in on about a 109 ICL. 4* advance that to 105 ICL if you are staying at the stock compression ratio to help add some low rpm manners.

[@cheol1250]

@@chrisreynolds6520 thank you

[@orvallhall324]

Question. In Your opinion. SBC 400 vs 350. What would you build for power and longevity. Had a 400 built for my 66 chevelle, high nickel content all quality parts and "friend left carburetor studs drop into intake. Blew hole in block. Need to start over. Can I use most parts from 400 on 350 ? Or should I look for a 400? Longevity and horsepower wanted. Thank you

[@cuttersperformance]

O man sorry to hear that! With all things equal (cam, heads, ect) a larger engine will always make more power and torque. If your trying to make a nice driver eith say 400 to 450 HP you can do it either way quite easily

[@orvallhall324]

@PISS-CUTTER Performance Thanks for sharing 👍. I appreciate your help and love your channel

[@pockets5628]

Can you show how you drill the heads to 1/2” for pushrod clearance when using 1.6 rockers? I’m wondering if you drill all the way through including alongside the port?

[@cuttersperformance]

Yeah, I can show that in an upcoming video. But yeah the existing holes are drilled right through

[@chrisreynolds6520]

Pockets, run a 1/2" bit straight through the existing holes. Took me about 20 seconds a pushrod hole.

[@pockets5628]

@@chrisreynolds6520 ok. And as far down so the bit is touching the side of the port, the bit doesn’t bind up against the casting?

[@chrisreynolds6520]

@@pockets5628 I am confused as to why you think the bit will bind. The pushrod hole sits well away from the rest of the casting and the material you need to go through is relatively thin.

[@pockets5628]

@@chrisreynolds6520 Ok, I'm doing this for my father in law, and he's concerned. I haven't looked at them yet. He's probably overthinking it.

[@trondvidardalseng894]

How is the intake, exhaust valve lift with that camshaft? Can you run this camshaft on a unmodify Vortec cylinder heads?

[@cuttersperformance]

. 525 lift in/Ex and I will be showing in a up coming video exactly what I will be doing to make it work on a basically stock vortec head

[@trondvidardalseng894]

Looking forward to it. That camshaft sounds very interesting. Would love to see what gain in torque and horsepower you can get with this camshaft. I have a L31 I am about to do a light overhaul on. So everything that makes a gain is very much welcome. Keep us up to date.

[@trondvidardalseng894]

Sorry if you have mentioned this before. But what ratio rockers are you going to use? What lenght on the push rods?

[@cuttersperformance]

@Trond Vidar Dalseng 1.6 rockers to get the .525 lift. And should be close to stock length but i will have to verify once the heads go on

[@trondvidardalseng894]

@@cuttersperformance Are you going to mill down guide bosses in order to make higher valve lift? What about theaded valve guides?

[@mattbaker847]

You ever use the comp xe276hr?

[@Hillbillymafia]

Does that came interfere with stems and and clearance

[@jeffjarquin5600]

I'm gonna run the summit 8802 in my budget Lt1 next

[@cuttersperformance]

It's very similar to the lt4 hotcam

[@jeffjarquin5600]

@PISS-CUTTER Performance should make a great street cam. Got my valve seats cut to 2.00 and 1.55. Dne a little welding on the outside of the pushrod pinch to help with core shift. They are thin in the pinch point.

[@cheol1250]

Do you have a l31 part 6 in the works?

[@cuttersperformance]

Yes sir

[@cheol1250]

Hey buddy on the l31 build did you make a video on the cam install?

[@cuttersperformance]

I didn't, but is there something you wanted to see about the install?

[@cheol1250]

@piss-cutterperformance yes the install of the cam as well the degree procedure.

[@oscarpuente2029]

👍

[@legozombiemocmaker8026]

What do you have to do to use a steel timing cover on a vortec 350

[@robertwest3093]

Does the L31 engine still use the thick style 5/64 ring or did they go to a thinner package?

[@cuttersperformance]

The stock pistons use a thinner metric 1.5/1.5/3.00 mm ring package

[@oldsrocket8456]

STEALLL 60 bucks I just paid under 600 for that damn cam

[@cuttersperformance]

Yeah I can't believe it

[@Jay-fb2lv]

You could have saved your $600 and got something so much better than a lame GM cam.

[@oldsrocket8456]

@@Jay-fb2lv oh yeah like what else

[@vestal2245]

Lt4 cam specs look wrong

[@cuttersperformance]

Shouldn't be GM part# 24502586

[@samt4186]

YOU NEVER SHOULD USE MOLLY RINGS ON ANY USED BORE........ MOST UTUBE VIDEOS ARE FROM PEOPLE WITH NOT MUCH REAL EXPERIENCE ....

[@cuttersperformance]

Bores were in good shape, almost no wear and no taper. The rings sealed up pretty well with a quick hone. Cast rings are obviously a better option and more forgiving on a worn bore

[@jeremytaylor4576]

5 videos and still sitting bare block. Repeating, repeating, senseless rambling. Build a motor. 5 videos and it’s clean still

[@cuttersperformance]

At 1:22 you can clearly see the bottom end is completely assembled. The last couple videos have been about head assembly. Everything is basically done but 60+ hour work weeks at the shop right now, two young kids and hotrod/racing season... I'm burning the midnight oil and doing my best the get the videos out

[@Snake.br549]

that depends upon which l-31 block you got I've got one that is set up for the steel cover it's a 96 they made several l-31 blocks that had a flat tappet cam but was set up for roller I had a 94 that had a flat tappet cam but was already drilled and set up for the roller cam it's called the early years of the vortec at least that's what i call it ! PS it's a 880 4 bolt main with brass freeze plugs

[@cuttersperformance]

880s blocks are from 96+ (some 95s) but some ealry 880 blocks that were drilled for a front cover, coolant bypass, and fuel pump. Prior to that, the roller 350 blocks were mostly 638 blocks

[@chrisreynolds6520]

@@cuttersperformance they made fuel pump ready blocks in some trucks and vans through 2007. The ones that are drilled and tapped had a factory block off plate. Some are tapped and some are not. None of the stock production trucks cams have a fuel pump lobe although the marine and industrial ones do. From what I have seen, typically the 4 bolt mains are fuel pump ready and the 2 bolt mains are not. 2001+ blocks have metric engine mount and bellhousing bolt holes.

[@tclott316]

Wrong. There are ZERO flat tappet l31s from the factory. Not sure who told you that but that is extremely false You had a 94 with a flat tappet cam because it was a TBI engine. Not an L31.

[@chrisreynolds6520]

@@tclott316 Not false at all from what I have seen myself. I pulled a very stock L31 out of a 96 van that was flat tappet cam and TBI. It did not have TBI heads either. It had 906s and a cast iron TBI to Vortec intake manifold on it.

[@tclott316]

@@chrisreynolds6520 then it’s not an L31. Simple as that. And it also wasn’t stock if it had Vortec heads and a cast iron intake. Lmfao.

[@oxyfee6486]

Great video! I commented a while back on a video, I asked if you were anywhere near Woodstock Ontario, I believe you said you were within a hour drive. I’m having trouble with the small block 350 in my 67 Camaro, I sent a message to the email that you sent me but I’m getting no response. If you are interested could you tell me how I can contact you? Thank You.

[@cuttersperformance]

Im behind on my emails, but I will be getting through all of them in the next day or so

[@oxyfee6486]

@@cuttersperformance Thanks for the reply, much appreciated.

[@rockfordhx2768]

Is a stock l31 cam shaft can’t hood compared to a lt4 hot cam and do a video on the timing cover from plastic to steel and how u match up the timing cover to the timing mark

[@chrisreynolds6520]

Use the Holley aluminum L31 cover. It is cheap and it actually seals well. I have one on a 305, a 350 and a 383 build based on vortec blocks. Timing marks match as well, not that I need them for anything beyond stabbing the distributor.