The Celestron Edge HD 11 Project

The Celestron Edge HD 11 is an aplanatic, flat-field Schmidt-Cassegrain Telescope suitable for astrophotography.
This SCT can accommodate 3 focal ratios: Native F/10, F/7 with a 0.7X Reducer, and even F/2 using Hyperstar.
In this video, I discuss options for astrophotography, including my current setup with the Edge 11 in the backyard.
Breakdown of this Setup:
Celestron Edge HD 11: bit.ly/3oPA8MQ
Celestron CGX-L Mount: bit.ly/3swwdSK
ZWO ASI294MC Pro Camera: bit.ly/3qqZWzj
ZWO ASI290MM Mini Guide Camera: bit.ly/3OY9LPg
Upcoming Accessories:
Celestron StarSense Autoalign: bit.ly/3qv5IzX
Celestron 0.7X Focal Reducer: bit.ly/3MTuFMP
Thank you for watching, and I hope you follow my progress with this setup!
Affiliate Links:
Some of the links in my video descriptions are affiliate links, which means at no extra cost to you, I will make a small commission if you click them and make a qualifying purchase.

[@seanmolony-redstickastro238]

All my friends have domes built in their yards. It's so nice to see an old school guy like me that still carries all his gear out!

[@AstroBackyard]

Haha Thanks Sean. Keeps us young 😄

[@johngiromini5745]

@@AstroBackyard There is a member of our local group that uses the CGX-L with EdgeHD 11 (well he did until the MyT came in). I went with him to one of our dark sites and saw what it took to setup and takedown that beast. Consequently, I acquired the CGX and 9.25. I like doing public outreach and moving a CGX-L around was not something I wanted to do. Fortunately, Celestron has come out with the autotuner and focal reducer for the 9.25. Waiting on the shipment. Good luck with your endeavors.

[@isoufo]

Your friends must be rich.... They got any $5,000 telescopes they don't need? **I'd pay for shipping :)

[@TheBambipower]

@@isoufo looks like theres an economical barrier. What're you gona do about that?

[@DylanODonnell]

I feel this. I recommend trying the all star polar align routine in the hand controller (undocumented really, but just as accurate as a pole master). I have a video on this. But for this to work, you should ensure your finderscope is aligned to what the scope is seeing (use a distant streetlight to check). Then it's easy to align those bright stars. Two star alignment + one calibration star is enough but for the focal length I usually go through all 4 calibration stars. Good luck!

[@AstroBlender]

Big plus 1. Having the finderscope dead on the money is a must. I still use the ASPA routine as well.

[@jasonschella7206]

I agree with Dylan. I do a 2-star alignment with 2 calibration stars and then do ASPA (takes about 10-15 minutes total). My PA is usually so good that I have to degrade my DEC guiding so that it is comparable to RA guiding to get round stars. DEC is usually 0.2-0.3 arcsec vs 0.5-0.6 for RA. For initial alignment I use the Telrad finder to very quickly get the first star in the camera FOV. After that the other alignment/calibration stars will show up in the image after goto. Differential flexure is a big issue with these long FL so I went to an OAG. You can use a finderscope but FL should be similar to the main scope and you need to make sure it is precisely aligned with the main scope (sometimes adjusting after pier flip). Fewer stars with OAG but better result. Hope this helps. Jason (Nova Scotia)

[@jasonschella7206]

Also, to make things easier because you don't have a permanent setup, I embedded 3 pavers into the ground where I setup and mark the spot to put the tripod feet so that I am close to polar aligned right from the beginning. Saves time on setup.

[@mtnhorn2619]

@@jasonschella7206 Attending local astronomy events is a BIG plus, being able to learn firsthand from those who have "been there, done that." After my Star Sense AutoAlign debacle, I sent the item back, received full refund (no compensation for frustration), and for ~10% the cost, bough what most everyone else uses: the Telrad finder. For anyone using a finder scope, get a Telrad to begin the search . . . I cannot praise it enough!

[@mtnhorn2619]

@@jasonschella7206 THe Celestron 11" Edge HD (w/CGX-L mount) is right at the limit for "portability". I cannot setup something permanent, as there are trees in the back & side yard. But every little trick helps in S/U, and having a convenient, permanent S/U location does save time. When at home, I use the front sidewalk, in which I have carefully chiseled three marks for my tripod legs (inconspicuous to anyone but me). Time saver!

[@blakebrothers]

Wow, that is an experience I've had more times than I can count and not just with this hobby. The fact that you document your trials and errors is something I find extremely useful and thanks for being so authentic. I guess any hobby that is too easy likely won't hold one's attention very long and one that is challenging, provides a tremendous sense of accomplishment when things go well. Looking forward to the next stage of progress with this rig!

[@davidjames4915]

Most people starting out in telescopic astrophotography in the 80s and 90s used 8" f/10 SCTs - Celestron and Meade both came out with "LX" type models for this purpose. Back then it was all on film, and initially with manually-aimed mounts (computerized setting circles and eventually Meade's LX200 Goto mounts gradually did away with this). Oh yes, and guiding was done manually.

[@robertw1871]

Yep, and you didn’t know you were out of focus and had star trails for 4 days because you had to go to the other side of town to get your Chrome 400 processed by the big camera shop that knew about what was supposed to be on the film… it was a real different situation then…. And everyone wanted to be Jason Ware…

[@thos759]

While still a refractor person I am totally riveted by your learning curve Trevor !! I will follow your progress diligently!! Keep em coming !!

[@cmelton.photography]

You could get some great planetary images from that scope!

[@CosmosSafari]

Sounds like a win in my book Trevor. Great to see you embracing failure and learning from mistakes. It helps the rest of us humans to see you pushing yourself up to and beyond your comfort zone. 👊

[@TPQ1235]

Trevor, welcome to the SCT club and working with very long focal lengths. I’m looking forward to watching you master the challenge of using a SCT as I expect that you will develop a routine that we can all learn from.

[@alwoods6179]

I have the 11"SCT Hyperstar system with ASI 071 setup. Bought it directly from Starzona. Dean set things up for me. Love it. Took a steep learning curve and the one night of instruction at their location. After 5 months I finally am getting the images I was promised by myself. They are fantastic!

[@TheWonkyAstronomer]

That's a great philosophy. Every session is a learning experience, even when things don't go to plan.

[@sking3571]

I have this exact setup. I use the ZWO ASI294, 071 & 1600MM. I bin all of these at 2X2 with great results. For Guiding I use a 80mm Guide Scope at 1960mm & 2800 with fairly good results. OAG of course is better. The stock Finder scope is good for getting you on your alignment star if you align it to axis. I use my DSLR on live view for star alignment and every thing works great. I of course do a plate solve to confirm. I am using the Celestron Motor Focuser as well as a Moonlite SCT Focuser with Motor for fine focus and focusing thru the sequence. It is a new world with this 11”. I started with the Explore Scientific 80mm as you did & suggested. A Dew shield makes a big difference. Clear Skies! . Steve

[@luciadelariva8186]

Hi Steve! Can I ask you which AutoGuider do you use? I am searching for an 80mm too but I am not sure if all of them work well with the c11. Do the AudioGuiders need a camera too? Thanks, Lucía

[@Fishinglam]

The Starsense is very good. I used it with my Celestron C8 with 2000mm focal length and I no longer lost in space.

[@CitizenSniiiips]

Just take the plunge and plate solve trevor, you honestly will never look back. With solvers like ASTAP that exist it is SUPER easy to set up. Unless you're at very high focal lengths you only need to download 1 library, no checking of different FOV's for different catalogues. Just one 700mb file, the astap program and pointing your acquisition software to the ASTAP folder on your PC and you're done. That's it.

[@HelenasAstrophotography]

Love watching your perseverance Trevor. This is what I'm facing with my new rig at the moment! It's a long road but it's a fun one. Can't wait to see what you produce. Clear skies and good luck!

[@les9030]

Trevor, I can't tell you how reassuring it was to watch this video. I have a Celestron Advanced VX 8 telescope and have had lots of difficulty trying to align it to the levels I see you do on your videos. I was getting pretty frustrated. It is encouraging to know that you too had difficulty and the problem was not necessarily just me. Now I feel energized to know that even somebody as experienced as you had similar problems. I never figured the higher focal length would make it so much more difficult. Thank you...even when things don't go right, I am learning that a positive step can be made from the mistakes. I just need to buy the StarSense guiding system and I think all will be fine! Thank you for your videos!

[@chm1701]

Can I ask how you’ve got on? Did you manage to align it? Thanks.

[@les9030]

@@chm1701 Yes..I eventually bought Star Sense. Made a huge difference.

[@ChucksAstrophotography]

I give you credit for even trying to do star-alignment and a hand-controller with that beast at full focal length, you must like self-torture, lol. Excellent video, Trevor!

[@tomkoenig3047]

Thanks for helping the newcomers like me. I also look forward to this journey. There's a LOT to learn. I admire your videos and even my High Point Scientific friends speak highly of you. Great Job!

[@donaldmartin7109]

As you alway do and perform the information needed for using this 11". Best teacher the stars can find. Thank you.

[@jeffreyvictor3678]

Another great job! Ty for taking the time to give such great in depth details on both your successes and failures. We learn more from failures and you publishing those (and possible solutions) helps us along our journeys! Even though mine is just starting!

[@wethoughtyouwasatoad4684]

Glad you were finally able to test it "oot". 😉

[@kevlarV2rocketRSV]

🤣🤣👍

[@juergenehnes8152]

Very interesting video. It was nearly the same for me with my new C8 Edge HD. The alignment was difficult in the beginning and the first steps with the OAG were hard. But after 4 month, I solved most of the issues and now can guide as long as needed. Last test was with 12min without any problems. Have a lot of fun with the C11. It could be my next scope.

[@jamesdeane4168]

Trev... Your setup is very similar to my large focal length setup. First , get .7x focal reducer, it made a huge difference for me. Forget Star-sense (I used SS for over a year) same as plate solving and adds 2.4 pounds of weight. Use polar alignment software... I use sharp cap with 60mm AstroTech and 290mc, very similar to Williams Optic 63mm...Use CPWI it is limited but works excellent with Celestron mounts. Plate solve on a good star (ie altair). Then using PHD2 do a drift alignment... this is troublesome at first but once you get hang of it you can have very good polar alignment. Very important! take flats, dark flats and darks. Do not bother with bias, 294mc does not have consistent low noise pattern and has a significant amount of amp glow. With large focal length you have no choice... the camera sensor is so sensitive it picks up everything in your imaging train...Good Luck!

[@johnellsphoto]

Besides your ability to explain in a clear manner, that which you do, it's primarily your philosophy that I embrace. Similar to the comment by Cosmos Safari, I appreciate your approach-put your expectations on hold, give it a go, learn from what you do, experiment, use some trial and error, and therefore EVOLVE. Way to go, Trevor-moving forward.

[@clungebucket23]

Seriously, Plate-solving is an absolute BLOODY GODSEND!. At first, i was utterly baffled, then i picked up the principles from here and there until i stumbled upon Astroquest1, who has a series of APT tutorials, including plate-solving and it *clicked*, i followed his guidance and was fortunate that everything ( all bar a few hiccups along the way) fell into place. my setup is very quick and easy now; level mount, polar align, one star alignment via the handset, focus with Bahtinov... then everything else is via my laptop; main camera, guide camera, mount and electronic focuser. Choose an object or enter coordinates into APT, slew to the object...you don't even have to check the camera! then run it thru plate-solving and once it's solved and centred, take a test shot and BINGO!, that super-dim object that your GOTO handset might well have missed, is bang in the middle. then start guiding and off you go!

[@thestruggler3338]

easy as pie?

[@simonsparks6959]

We have the EdgeHD 11" and we use the StarSense and also the GPS module to make setting up very quick and simple.

[@tomivy11]

I love how you can always stay positive bro! Hopefully you get a few clear nights in a row to keep practicing. I’m really excited to see what you can do with that SCT!!!

[@FabienProxTrm]

A great video again Trevor! Thanks for it! This rig looks absolutely craaaazy ! I’ve been here since like 10k! Thanks for everything, you’re the reason I got into vlogging my night sky adventures myself 😁 clear skies!!!

[@AstroBackyard]

Glad to hear that! Thank you. I'll check out your channel 🙂

[@FabienProxTrm]

AstroBackyard it’s in French though 😳 Filby says hi to Rudy 🐶 !!

[@markchast4813]

I really appreciate seeing these types of videos, errors are where the learning happens and sharing it helps us all with the process. Can’t wait to see where this journey leads. (I was looking at the 9.25 so this will be my pain as well in the future. )

[@Gabriel-hh1pw]

Finally a new video to have fun while we're all in quarantine!!! Thanks Trevor!

[@petert2098]

That RA axis swings nicely. Good to see it’s not filled with the typical sticky grease.

[@sketch6995]

I just bought the edge 800 and a skywatcher EQ-6R pro as a 2nd scope. Upgraded from a celestron LCM 114......I have a lot to learn. Thanks for uploading all these vids. Now I dont know for sure but it sure sounds to me like you could avoid most of these issues with a better mount. One with a polar alignment scope built in. One made for scopes with longer focal lenghts.

[@oldgittarist]

Personally I found that off -axis guiding was the way to go with long focal lengths. Agree a reducer makes the SCT a more manageable and flexible tool!

[@christopherdeaver5372]

It is the only way to go

[@bmur56]

Glad to see someone still active ! I look forward to your next post on this setup. Signed, a growing fan.

[@benwhisper1225]

good luck with the beast ! waiting for the next part. best Tv show !

[@brianreynolds1098]

Well, I'm only a beginner Planetary AP guy with an 8" LX200 (after over 20 years of visual work) but the planetary shots you're going to get with that scope will be killer. Venus is on everyone's menu right now. You should give it a go if you can, just as a time filler. Word to the wise: before you start shooting planetary objects, get yourself an ADC (Atmospheric Dispersion Corrector) to help your images. An IR filter is also a must. Let me know if you need help using the ADC properly. Love your channel now and follow along even though I don't know squat about DSO AP. I learn a lot listening to your successes and failures! And thanks for continuing to roll out episodes while we all go through this thing, biding our time until some kind of normalcy returns!

[@VincentGroenewold]

Always so interesting to see different setups, since I started in 2015 I started with platesolving and ditched the hand controller. Never looked back. :)

[@Kevin-co7cl]

I have the C8edgeHD, hyperstar and asi1600mm pro. I use the starsense autoalign system with on point go to positioning every time. For polar alignment I use the hand controller and mount adjustment knobs to align with ease. For guiding I use the zwo mini scope and asi290mc and connect phd2 to the hand controller. I read somewhere not to use the port on the mount. It was a lot of trial and error but now I’m starting to shoot some decent images. Love you videos man, good luck and clear skies

[@piotrjakuc6357]

"Even if it's potentially frustrating, if you've learned a few new things, then it's a positive experience". In that case, I must have been getting a lot of those positive experiences lately! Can't imagine how hard it must be at 2800mm. Awesome scope Trevor, can't wait to see more of it in the future!

[@markc7884]

It's not difficult once you platesolve. For small galaxies and nebulae guiding and accurate setup is critical, and for planets you need to absolutely nail collimation. It's just like a 500mm telescope, but everything needs to be precise.

[@martindoppelbauer7738]

I am using a Celestron Edge HD 925. For polar alignment I always have both a regular finder scope and a red dot finder attached to the scope. This way, you start with the red dot finder to easily bring the star into the view of the finder scope. After you have centered the star you can go to the camera (DSLR or otherwise) and center the star there. This is a three step process but very quick and easy. I always use the two star alignment method plus at least two calibration stars to align the scope. After that, I always polar align the mount. This is also quite simple with the help of the red dot finder, should the position of the guide star be outside the view of the finder scope. I do not need/want anything else for polar alignment. Plate solving is also not required. Finally, for guiding I use the MGEN-3 system and a 240 mm guide scope, which replaces the red dot finder after the initial alignment. The MGEN system uses multiple stars for tracking, not just one. In my light polluted rural area it typically finds between 20 and 40 stars for tracking. This way, the tracking is very, very accurate. Hope this helps 😁 Oh, and always use the ‚Precise GoTo‘ feature of the hand controller when you slew to an object that you can not see in the live view of your camera. That helps a lot.

[@kenkolen]

I am glad I am not the only one suffering with the Edge 11, I havent gotten past the polar alignment with Sharpcap just yet. Waiting on darker nights. You will definitely need a permanent home.

[@rexnerf]

I've been using the Star Sense for the last year, visual only and with the 8se (only 2032mm Focal length). I got it because until the lock down I did 2 or 3 community outreaches a month. It's just easier to let it align itself as I keep people back and do a short talk. I will attest it does a great job, even when starting with a 10mm eyepiece it is normally in frame.

[@HollomanUFOLanding]

One word to transform your alignment woes - Telrad. Make it the next thing you buy. I have a C11 as well and without the Telrad finding alignment stars can be daunting. With it, I can have the star in my eyepiece within seconds. So that's when using the Nexstar alignment options. To make alignments even easier, use Star Sense, plus it has Celestron's All Star Polar Alignment built in. You can still uise the Telrad with Star Sense as it comes in very useful for finding calibration stars for when you need to align the Star Sense camera to the OTA. Do you still have the CGXL? Do you like it? I am thinking of getting one. You make great videos, keep up the good work.

[@jamesdougan8789]

g`day trevor good to see you doing a video or 2 for the SCT lovers in your community

[@richardneel6953]

Watching in November 2020. God, I hope you've moved to plate solving by now. It is so easy and quick and removes all this frustration.

[@mostafametwally1]

Strongly recommend the 0.7 Celestron reducer. I really struggled with this telescope until I started using the reducer. Plate solving, focusing and tracking are much easier with the reducer attached.

[@davidkennedy3050]

Even better for this scope would be the Large SCT reducer by Starizona. A lot more expensive, but the backofcus will allow both OAG and filter wheels with room to spare.

[@aughtago]

I have the same scope AND camera, plus the star sense system (no focal reducer yet) but I have far less experience than you, I upgraded from a 5" dob on a manual german mount, to this fork mounted beast. I have it permanently mounted to concrete pier with a Wedge. I feel like i finally got the polar alignment spot on and saved the alignment , I can just load the alignment and sync to one star and i'm good to go. I then struggled with columniation(SP?) , but after getting some bob's knobs i feel i have a near perfect columination. Now I have installed this camera and by measurement , have the back focus as close to the magic 146mm required. I focussed with a Bahtinov mask and the EFM, but when I tried shooing some planets they look fuzzy, last night was very good seeing and I spent hours filming fuzzy planets and playing with camera settings. I then moved over to a star and the best i can get is little (perfectly round) donuts. I feel like it is a back focus issue and other than trial and error , I'm not sure how to resolve it. How did you zero in on your back focus? any suggestions?

[@ragrabau]

Oooohhhh, A C11 video. OK let's watch it! Alignment was a problem, hmm, I have 2 C11's one (Carbon Fiber C11 deforked off my Nexstar 11) and is permanently mounted on a CGE-Pro in my backyard observatory. The other is what I drag around to dark sky sites. That is my Edge 11 on an original CGEM. Both of my C11's have Telrad finders and that is all I need to align the scopes. My process for alignment for the CGEM in the field is first set the tripod down and orient toward north. I use a handheld GPS to see where North is then step back about 20+ feet from the tripod and see if the tripod is point north. Then level the tripod. Next add the mount head and counter weights (I need two). Next add the OTA. then add all of the accessories to the mount. Then balance the mount. Once it is dark enough, I use my phone and Sky Safari to show the NCP and the telrad rings. I then orient the scope to how Polaris is relative to what Sky Safari shows. This is a very close alignment and the standard 2 star and 4 cone star alignment will be pretty close and good enough to find small objects when doing just a visual observing. Even at Cherry Springs! Polemaster would get a better alignment at this point for DSO's, planets and such. I have used All star alignment for my permanent mount in my backyard observatory to get a much finer alignment. Keep up the good work! I really like your youtube channel!!!

[@nadirteymurov1]

Try ASPS (All Sky Plate Solver). It's really very simple and user friendly. All you need is to specify your system focal length and camera pixel. Then you feed it with picture just taken with camera and it will solve position where telescope is pointing in less than 1 minute !

[@vilchez2000]

What a monster! Enjoy it, waiting your results.

[@mike94560]

Its funny you posted this. I am setting up my Meade 10" right now. ASI cooled Camera on back order. I am going to use a OAG with ASI290 mini. I am also using Stellarmate. I have been mocking it up and testing it in the garage. No flying bugs is nice. I will have to look into getting a focal reducer that will fit.

[@AaronDalton1]

Also so glad to hear you're working on retiring the ST-4 cable. 😅

[@marcanddrew2925]

Finally! I’ve been waiting for you to make a video with this rig for a while now

[@kodyisaac8149]

My favourite KZbinr rn😎 keep it coming with all these amazing videos😎

[@davidrousseau8066]

Damn it looks heavy!

[@GalaxyArtMedia]

Wow! This telescope is a big ''Gun''. Looking forward to see your astrophotography results with this telescope.

[@BookOfFaustus]

I love my StarSense Autoalign. Works best when you align manually FYI. But it really takes a lot of the time and toil out of alignment

[@peterbresler1382]

I have had an HD 1100 for several months. I have some other scopes, but this one really does the job. As you say I usually use it with the focal reducer. I found an excellent cheap guide scope with a 400 mm camera lens with a QHY 5IIm as the guide camera. My imaging cameras are a ZWO 294MC pro, just sent back to China because it went out, and a mono SBIG 8300, which is great. I use platesolves with Sequence generator pro to locate objects with my Astrophysics Mach1 mount. I have a Hyperstar; had excellent results with it. Have been hesitant to put it back because collimating this scope was tough.

[@AstroBackyard]

Have you used a Celestron Edge HD SCT for Astrophotography? Please share some pointers. Seriously, I'm setting it up again tonight!

[@SternSignatureAstrophotography]

Hey I just bought a Celestron EdgeHD SCT 8 for my imaging! i love it. After trial and error I found that I need to use the built in celestron All star polar alignment. Here's my nightly routine, keep in my though that I personally have to setup far away from my house every night so I might not have the best plan. I setup my scope, rough polar align with polar scope, then do a two star alignment. After that, i go into the settings and perform the polar align function under "align mount". This gets me pretty accurate. With this setup, I am able to get upto 120 second subs without guiding. I will be setting up my guiding camera this week once my ASIair pro comes in so I will report back once that happens. If you have any other questions shoot me a message on here, would love to talk more with you! @AstroBackyard

[@krellon]

I just took receipt of an EdgeHD 8" Deffo need OAG! The flexure on a mounted guider = noooooo way.... I learnt the hard ways. I bought and ZWO OAG (Tricky getting focus and a star but once you got it :D sorted ). Plate solving needed slightly longer exposure times in order to find suitable stars. Coarse focuser made getting the sweet spot a bit of a challenge so ordered the Celestron electronic focuser which arrives tomorrow :D

[@denniswilde2013]

I just installed a C14 Edgehd in my observatory. The most important thing to focus on is the back focus. I’m waiting on an adapter right now to reach the 146.5mm I need. I bought the .7 reducer with it.

[@wadehustad9447]

Collimation is really important to check often, especially if you swap between the Hyperstar and f/7 or f/10. An OAG and a banging PA really helps for that focal length. Get platesolving setup in Sequence Generator Pro ASAP. It makes target setup a breeze!

[@grahamwhite75a]

I’m going down same route as you as we enter galaxy season. Really want to get wide FOV on those galaxies filling as many pixels as possible. I am a step or two ahead with EdgeHD 9.25. First problem, as you point out, is difference in focal lengths between guide and main scope. I moved to a Celestron OAG. Then I hit image scale issues on the guide camera, the stars (if you can find one!) are so bloated. Binning is the answer but PHD does not let you do that on CMOS. So now moving to Starlight Xpress CCD on both guide (Lodestar X2) and main camera (Trius XS694), which has large pixels. That should allow binning and sort out image scale issues. However does mean I need to move away from ZWO colour CMOS to monochrome CCD which will make image capture longer, but I think will result in better images. My targets are M1, M51 and M101.

[@ramiroreyesm]

I was looking at getting this telescope this year! Your vídeo serie is one I can’t wait to see!

[@TwitchFlys]

Damn you! giving me Aperture envy! My 8" HD SCT is good but you can never have too much apature!

[@Jjaipa123]

I jumped in with the same setup you have. Finder scope is key as is alignment to main scope. I just added an OGA as well and here are my learnings: Keep it simple - The key for me was using PHD drift align routine using the imaging camera (not OAG or guide scope). Simple to do and only took 20 newbie minutes. Once done I was shooting 10 minute subs. Back focus was another challenge for me being new to astro cameras, ASI 294MC-Pro with the ZWO OAG and the filter drawer. Once you polar align the mount with the imaging camera, then you need to match the focus with the OAG camera (set expectations on this one). I'm using the AIS120MC-S and there is only one 1-2mm spacer between it and the OAG mounting surface (use 2x2 bin for guide camera due to pixel scale). I'm in NJ with bortel 5 skies but just shot the Cat's Eye Nebula with very good results at F10 for the first time (another project). Plate solving is nice as well as auto focus both in SGP. Once all this is in place, you can go back and use the GoTo 2 start plus 1-4 calibration stars. I wouldn't bother with the All start polar align as the PHD drift align (IMHO) works so much better.

[@bgm-1961]

EDIT: Never mind everything I wrote below, last night, if my suspicion is correct... It just dawned on me this morning that the difference is in the mount? I use a simple Alt-Az fork mount, while you're using an EQ mount. If I remember correctly (it's been a while), an EQ mount requires a different alignment process. You have me somewhat confused. Maybe it's the difference between the requirements for visual vs imaging use, but I own a 17 year old NexStar 11" scope (same model as yours, just a tad older :) ), and I use the basic star alignment method, with the hand controller. For my "spotting scope", I just use a Telrad. The method simply uses two primary stars. And each time, I've been able to go to a deep sky object, found within a 27mm eyepiece. My method is to keep the stars out of focus during the alignment process (so they look like a donut). I find that helps to better center them in the FoV. Plus I also use a 9mm cross-hair recticle eyepiece for the final alignment of each star. By putting the cross-hair in the center of the "donut", I feel like anyway, that I'm achieving the best centering I can, for each alignment star. Other than that, perhaps it's the wider FoV of the Telrad, vs using a spotting scope that helps me find the alignment stars much quicker?

[@donaldbeatty4171]

I use a Celestron C14 SCT (not the Edge) on an older CGE mount for astrophotography. It has a native 3910mm focal length (F11), but I use a Celestron .63 reducer/field flattener to bring that down to 2463mm (F7). I've used modified DSLR's, an older Orion Starshoot DSI Pro, and just recently acquired a ZWO ASI294MC Pro. I also use an Orion Eon 80mm refractor with and Orion Starshoot autoguider. Trying to guide with a smaller, 50mm guide scope is not very accurate with the long focal length. I do use a 50mm guide scope when I switch the camera over to image through the 80mm. I've had really good results with this setup, but even a little wind can cause oval stars. This is the setup I learned on, so I'm pretty used to it. Really like your videos, keep up the good work.

[@louisrosner7902]

Just started with the 8HD w .7 reducer and OAG. A steep learn no doubt. Best to get a good focus first. PA w polarscope. Then quick align with handset then platesolve w APT. Then try to find a guide star and then pull your hair out trying to focus the guider. The rest is easy. I'll try and send some early work on M 101 and M82. Adam thinks they look fantastic. Have to figure out how to upload them. (Dr Lou}

[@GaryMCurran]

I'm wondering Trevor, if you're going to do plate solving, are you doing it from the imaging scope, or the guide scope? It would seem to me that the guide scope, at a couple of hundred mm focal length would actually give you a more accurate alignment solution. Next, you have an 80mm scope, right? You should be able to get a top dovetail bar and a Vixen to Losmandy, or D sized adapter. Mount the 80mm on top as your guide scope, should give you better guiding, and still give you good alignment if you use that for plate solving.

[@nikivan]

You do plate solving with your imaging camera.

[@GaryMCurran]

@@nikivan makes it kind of hard if you have a very narrow field of view, don't you think? Where is it written in stone that you have to do it with your imaging camera?

[@OOria]

Finally, I was so excited! Thats my dream scope. Looking a little rought with missing equipment. Am really looking forward for the first results. I'm also curious which result you get with a DSLR on F/7.

[@nathan35uk]

Love your vids a real inspiration always , Im new to this but Ive never once done a star alignment , only ever plate solved in APT and polar align with sharpcap, I tried a celestron starsense but got fed up with messing with the handset so I just use the laptop direct to the mount with the usb port and binned the starsense and hand controllers altogether .Im pretty sure the plate solving wouldnt work at that focal length unless I download some more star maps that correspond , Im actually glad I never grew into it with that dreaded handset messing with times and dates star aligments etc APT and plate solving is so much easier , I learnt APT from you and PHD2 btw .. Love your vids great to see the learning curve ..

[@darkskyexplorer7109]

Long focal length astrophotography. What hair pulling Fun! A vid of the skywatcher Rh vs that CGX with unguided 60sec, 120sec and 3-5 minute exposures: That will be very useful for your viewers, and enlightening. Here was my routine polar aligning the CGX: 1: align dove plate saddle to North Star 2: after tube, RA and Dec balance, align finder to scope. Balancing is always nearly impossible with these mounts thanks to the horrible stiction in the axis 3: do 2-3 star alignment with calibration stars 4: polar align mount using the routine in the controller. Or: use sharp cap polar align (which makes the polar scopes obsolete!) using a guide scope of 300mm. You will need a high focal length guide scope. 400mm is a good target. 300 works. Less than 200,maybe but I wouldn’t. Stick a Barlow in the RedCat if you have to. You can get away with 2-3 minute exposures at f7 using your one shot color camera at unit gain or 1600 iso using a DSLR. Remember You need the Tadapter, With or without e focal reducer (if it’s the celestron focal reducer). I don’t know about the Starizona if that’s what you’re using. Hang in there good luck. You might have had better luck loading up your ioptron or Skywatcher mount with that tube.

[@steveibbotson1214]

as you are setting up each night i would suggest another handle on the top of the scope for starters , I know I use my C11 mainly for planets and my mount is higher (to clear the wall) but the second handle is really useful. I have my RC1600mm ish f/l at the present on the perm mount but still use platesolving and finally I would suggest that at 3000 OAG is the way to go not only for the focal length but any flex in the system. Good luck with the 11

[@christopherdeaver5372]

Get a red dot finder to go with your guidescope. Helps with your star alignment in a major way. Save your sanity.

[@AstroPhotos]

I'm looking at ordering the ASI294MC Pro, I'd love an ASI2600 but the 294 is half the price and more than capable. I can't believe how small it looks when it's connected to this scope! I've also ordered an EQMOD Dir Cable for my HEQ5 Pro, I've been wanting to delve into using my computer to manage the mount and use it with Stellarium etc. can't wait to get it as I've been having really frustrating nights not slewing to targets, sometimes it slews fine after star alignment, other times it's way off, and with a DSLR it's so difficult to know whether you're on target without plate solving sometimes. So hopefully the EQMod will be a nice solution to this. Would imagine it'd definitely help at such long focal lengths as well.

[@dekemp1986]

Very cool to see you working with this rig Trevor. In the long run (in a few years) I am planning to get an RC for galaxies so I am watching your journey closely :)

[@ralfs.4148]

Nice to see you using longer focal length for galaxy-season. I put out my RC8 without reducer last week and did not regret it. However, I would be completely lost with that 1600mm without platesolving with my setup with an Indi-Server on a RPi4 and Kstars on Windows or Linux, what I can totally recommend. If you have questions on how to set up such a system feel free to ask.

[@Mr77pro]

Just got the 9.25" a couple months back...haven't had much clear sky but working the bugs out. Reduced .7x to get down to 1645mm, still pretty long. Using it on my new eq6r. No images yet, but learn something every time I set up. Got good guiding last nigh .4 !! Was never able to get below 1.2 with the AVX, but using the 400mm orion shorty on the edge.

[@mpsteidle]

I'm honestly amazed you arn't platesolving yet. APT has a super easy to use platesolving interface, i'll never go back.

[@sirmeowcelot]

thanks Trevor for another educational video.

[@ioan_astro]

for this focal length plate solving is key :) you need a good imaging software that can help you frame your shot and plate solve, so time to look at The SkyX, Maxim or Nina :) at these focal lengths you really need to know what you are doing with plate solving. wide field refractors are pretty simple. Also at the focal length you would need a bigger pixel pitch then what the 294 has...you need well a CCD something with pixel pitch of 6 or 9μm or your images will be really oversampled. For focal lengths past 1500mm you need a 400mm+ guidescope.

[@michal_king478]

that mount is bigger and more stable than my future

[@stevef7699]

The Starsense on my Edge C925 works well for me, as does the all star polar alignment on its handset. The only issue is that it is a fixed bracket with no adjustment so unless it just happens to be pointing exactly where the scope is pointing there's always (the same) goto error, but it is still small enough with the C925 to see the target and move or plate solve it into line.

[@jamesplanets7039]

You are right about the focal reducer. I have the 8" Celestron SCT (not Edge unfortunately), and with the reducer I'm at 1.3m focal length. I use an Off-axis guider. I was told on Cloudynights that an OAG is definitely the way to go for an SCT, and I'm really happy with it. On a handful of occasions I've left off the focal reducer and captured at native 2m focal length. It's really only worth it when the seeing is well above average, since only then will my guiding errors be below the camera pixel size at that longer focal length (I use the ASI 294MC, which YOU inspired me to buy! :) ). And yes, plate solving is soooooo much less hastle. If you want to spend time capturing photons, rather than getting lost in space, it is absolutely the way to go. ;) You'll have plenty of opportunity for visual astronomy when the planets come around: I bet they'll look fabulous in the 11"...

[@cesarecannavo1134]

Good morning to you. Interesting video. I have one question to your professional experience: I am interested in buying myself a C9.25" EDGE HD using a 2" Focuser from the company Star-Light-Instrument for SC, to do observations, but also occasionally with the two Nikon D800 and Z8 I have, do some photography as well. Some friends recommend the C9.25" XLT for making observations. But I have an AP-Traveler 105mm, used to having maximum sharpness, some friends, recommend me, also for making observations, the C9.25" EDGE HD. What do you think, which of the two instruments do you recommend? For making observations, do I need to buy the 2"-BackFocus system from Star-Light-Instrument or use without it? I would be very happy to receive your answer. I have a complete set of accessories for make Astro CCD, however, I find it very difficult and complex for me. Also, I have decided, do not beginning or learning the CCD technic photography. That is why I will sell my AP-Traveler 105mm, last version, and then buy a SC C925" Edge HD or XLT (?). For only observation and good sharpness to have, are better the C9.25" EDGE HD, or better only the XLT? Thanks. Sure are interesting to used for picture the EDGE HD with Hyperstar accessory from primary to photographed. I also noticed that the C8" and C11", the Flatt-Field lenses, are shifted far inwards, instead of the C9.25" and the C14" being positioned at the edge of the rear tube. This is the reason for buying a C9.25" and not a C11" EDGE HD. What do you think about my questions? Thank you for your professional help. Bye. A

[@richardgrudzien2798]

Hi Trevor, I have the same WO 50mm guidescope and the ZWO ASI290MM mini guide camera - I found that it was ridiculously awkward moving the camera in and out of the guidescope to achieve focus - very crude and inaccurate as it relies on steady, tiny movements. I also found it strange that with this setup I had to bin 2x2 to see any stars at all ( 1x1 left me with a black screen, no stars). Still puzzled by that. So I abandoned the WO guidescope (they should take a leaf out of Orion's book) and bought the Orion 60mm guidescope with helical focuser - instant, precise focus of the 290MM mini (and no rotation of the camera) and totally hassle free (with 1x1 binning). I think this is a much better match than using the WO guidescope; on top of that, the dovetail plate for the Orion slides straight into my WO GT102 finder bracket perfectly.

[@rodcortright7270]

Definitely get the focal reducer. I have an 9.25 Edge HD which I use with the Canon 60Da. Images are sharper and much easier to get with the reducer.

[@icyxxxxx]

Woah cool!

[@steveweintraub1113]

Thanks for the review. I've got the Edge HD 11 and the Starsense Auto Align is a great investment as well as a huge time saver. My HyperStar mounted on that produces amazing DSO's in minimal time with the assistance of my auto guider. Looking forward to your follow up videos and your assessment.

[@malanstecker]

What mount are you using? A CGX, CGXL or something else? BTW I used a C-14 before GOTO and used star charts for star patterns from an atlas to center invisible objects? There was no computer control, CCD camera or autoguiding then, so much easier today.

[@christopherdeaver5372]

Yes yes yes.....I have a 11 edge too...you can do it. Dare to be great. Your rig here is 5x harder than any thing else you have ever done. When you master this....you will have reached your pinnacle.

[@ssranon]

At 6:06 I can see that your new telescope has inevitably attracted clouds, like all new astronomy gear does. :-)

[@AstroDenny]

Once I get a really solid polar alignment, I click through a one star alignment and plate solve in APT. Takes a few minutes and I'm up and going. I can get 3-5 minute unguided subs on my CGEM-DX and Esprit 120 scope easy. I have a StarSense that I use when I set this rig up for visual and that's really (really!) nice and easy as well. I can't wait to see what you come up with on that 11" SCT! I have gear envy! Keep up the great vids!

[@phoenixrising4573]

So watching your channel got me to buy the AVX and reflector two years ago, unfortunately Harvey put the mount 2 foot underwater, and left me disgusted and with a bad RA drive amongst other issues. I've been watching your videos since, I just couldn't bring myself to bit the bullet until Monday... My new CEM60 will be here Friday, and I have the OTA itself cleaned up and ready to mount! I'm excited to try again!

[@Erniej270]

Can’t wait to see what you get with this rig. Love the videos and thanks for retweeting my IPhone M42 photo!!!!!

[@Astrolavista]

Fab video as always but you surprised me a bit when you went after deep sky at native focal length, I thought surely Venus would be your target. I had the edge 8 on an avx and did have a small amount of success with the .7 reducer. The edge optics are a real class act and it's a versatile scope with all the options. Get that .7 reducer and I'm sure you'll do great with it I'll deep sky😎

[@tomthoe]

Awesome setup! Looking forward to seeing your images.

[@dasimcoes]

Great video, can't wait to see some images. Good luck Trevor.

[@NG-VQ37VHR]

You won't believe how easy plate solving is to use and set up. I just set it up because I got lost with my new HD 8, and I feel really silly for not doing it before. It might have taken 10 minutes to download the programs, catalogs, and setting up before i was back imaging again.

[@konrak81]

great video like always Trevor

[@johnadastra1754]

Suggest adding a dovetail on top and mounting a much larger guidescope. Rule of thumb is guidescope FL is 20-25% of main scope FL. Also platesolving is a must if you want to return to the same frame for subsequent evenings. C925 Edge Owner. Cheers!

[@04.nguyenduybinh95]

Wow The celestron is so amazing

[@Lou-li3lb]

Plate solvers vindicated! Looking forward to seeing what you put out with this scope. I have my eye on the 8 or 9.25.

[@clungebucket23]

Go for the 9.25, I had an 8, it was a mare, the image circle is very small, well, too small for a DSLR and focusing is very frustrating, really clunky and unreliable, an electronic focuser might help. You will most likely need a decent focal reducer too.

[@Lou-li3lb]

@@clungebucket23 Thanks for the advice. I'm debating on a used 9.25 for $1500 and a used 11" for $2100 now. I would plan on getting the Celestron reducer and OAG as well.

[@martindurrer5101]

Use as well the EHD11 wit Hyperstar or a optec lepus reducer and moonlite ... 2800mm is very difficult to handle, I dont use it ofter. Can recommend OAG even with the reducer and especially a second rail on top with a handle for setup. Enjoy!