The Clearwater - Red Deer Circuit - Banff Ultimate Remote Backpacking

145km. No resupply. 5 mountain passes, more than 12 river fords, and a territorial grizzly bear. These are juts a few of the highlights of the Clearwater - Red Deer Circuit, highlighting some of the most remote backcountry areas you can backpack in Banff National Park.
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GAIA Track - *** PLEASE SEE NOTES on tracks due to my route finding!!www.gaiagps.com/map/?loc=9.6/...
00:00 Intro
14:38 Day 2
31:28 Day 3
50:58 Day 4
58:56 Aggressive Grizzly Bear!
1:11:31 Day 5
1:26:59 Day 6
1:51:23 Day 7

[@barryparris91]

Stuart, you're living the summer we all dream about.

[@HowestheHike]

What a great comment. Thank you very much Barry. I've dreamed about it as well but I have to say how I got here was not how I dreamed about it, if you know what I mean. Sometimes life gives you lemons and you have to make lemonade. So I'm going to enjoy every sip :-)

[@randysandberg5615]

Great video. It brings back many memories. I've done that trip numerous times, from both directions. I used my own horses, though. That made crossing rivers much easier! The problem lies at the end of the trail you have to find a way to get back to your vehicle at the beginning of the trip.

[@HowestheHike]

Thank you for replying and watching the video! And yes a four-legged creature would have a much easier time ha ha. That said, I didn't find anything too challenging given the time of year and the low water flow. But what astoundingly gorgeous piece of our country isn't it? I can't wait to get back there this summer. We have a couple of pretty epic trips planned to explore the rest of it. Maybe we will see you out there :-)

[@Mandyanne31]

I don’t think my anxiety would ever allow me to hike the Rockies, but I’m living vicariously through your video. Absolutely beautiful!

[@HowestheHike]

I bet if you went out with some experienced people, you'd be great!!

[@Mandyanne31]

@@HowestheHike probably not haha I live on the east coast and I’m scared here, it’s not enough to keep me from doing multi day hikes but our wildlife are basically kittens compared to the west coast. The Rockies might be my favorite place though, absolutely nothing compares.

[@HowestheHike]

Well, I am an East Coast boy myself. And had to learn to love the grizzly bear! Thank you for being a viewer and a fan, and you can certainly live vicariously through me :-)

[@sheripacori2097]

I love the way you handle your camera. You show wide and long angles. I get a real good sense of your surroundings. Awesome job.

[@HowestheHike]

Thank you very much! That's very nice of you!! Thanks for watching :)

[@elias9014]

Oh my - your videos are so addictive, I can't even decide where NOT to go anymore! 😀Makes trip planning kind of hard actually - we're just planning for our first Canada backpacking holiday this September (trying to avoid the masses (or Disneyland as you called it somewhere?)). I guess South Boundary in Jasper and Molar Loop (both 2-3 nights) are high up on the list, but oh my, I should stop watching your other videos or we might never settle on our plans...

[@HowestheHike]

Hahaha! What a wonderful comment thank you so much! And I guess you do watch my videos cause I call Lake Minnetonka Disneyland! 😂 South boundary was pretty much cleared from end to end last year after the big June snowstorm. It is likely in the best shape it's been in in 20 years so obviously a good choice. But you can't go wrong with the molar loop either. I was back in that area as you saw on this video and it's gorgeous. If you need any help deciding just head over to my website and send me a note. Happy to help. Howesthehike.ca.

[@elias9014]

@@HowestheHikeThank you for the kind reply and offer - I might take you up on that regarding sleeping bag choices for the hikes being in mid September - as I'm not sure whether our Marmots with 0/-1°C 'comfort' limit (even if we add fleece liners) will comfortably suffice up there. I remember on our 5 day hike in the Scottish highlands in September '22 they got quite chilly in the early mornings - and there we still had a couple degrees above freezing for sure (and altitude-wise probably around 1500 meters less than Cairn pass or Fish lakes). If you woke up to snow at La Grace in August, we're curious what to expect mid-September! And yep, we spontaneously just reserved the last possible slots for the Molar loop as Fish Lakes appears to be quite popular in September - just as well that fully booked up there just means 5 tents - luckily not quite 'Disneyland'-proportions I'd say 🙂. Perhaps we can make time for a Rocky Pass --> Cairn Pass + return hike as well before that, I'd love to do them both, they sure both look stunning! Comparing the Rockies to the Bavarian/Tyrolean Alps in Europe, our home turf, we just miss the sheer vast wilderness and camping possibilities here - although we still feel privileged of course living so close to the Alps, even if they're rather tamed in comparison...

[@HowestheHike]

My pleasure! And congratulations! That's a TOUGH place to get a reservation! I also think you'd love Rocky/Cairn as a trip too - very remote and wild - and worth the effort! Safe travels and reach out directly if you need anything!

[@Kohlonthetrail]

great video! I'm out in Alberta for the summer working and backpacking, maybe ill see you on the trails. id love to pick your brain about this trip, id like to do it this September.

[@HowestheHike]

Glad you're in Alberta for the summer! It's a great place to be. Happy to help - just head to my website and you can send me a message through there. Hope to see you out there somewhere!

[@ChrisTheBackpacker]

Absolutely a wonderful video! Subscribed and looking forward to future content!

[@HowestheHike]

Welcome aboard! Thanks so much and great to e-meet you!!

[@ricklarry4212]

You Canadians are fortunate to have two great parks with such awe inspiring vistas. Loved the "Ford Cam" crossings on the Pipestone Stream/River, although I'm sure the early morning crossings were a bit nippy. You need some hot springs to take the edge off. You really have spoiled your viewers, Stu, with so many wonderful adventures. Thanks for sharing.

[@HowestheHike]

Such kind words, thank you so much! Yes we are lucky here in Canada to have these amazing parks and trails at our disposal. That said, the US has some absolutely ridiculous places to hike!! More people? Typically yes. I think I would alter your coming to say we "North Americans" :) There was one section I was crossing so many times I was afraid I was going to have too many flashing lights in the video for people sensitive to that sort of thing! That said, this was one of the highlights hikes I've had in the last few years. I absolutely love this part of Banff national park and will return to explore other areas very soon

[@neethewondercat]

Another fantastic hike. Thanks Stuart, loving all the incredible hikes.

[@HowestheHike]

My pleasure! It's been a wonderful summer exploring these amazing places. I appreciate your comment, and your watching the videos!

[@martybaer3050]

Great Hike and video Stu. Thanks for posting this...

[@HowestheHike]

Thanks so much! And you're very welcome. It's been a privilege this summer to walk and his amazing places.

[@tangenttrails]

Exceptional video! You’re busy putting in the distances this season. Good to see!

[@HowestheHike]

Thank you so much! It was an exceptional hike I just held the phone :-) it's been a great summer and I'm certainly going to end it with a bang in September if the plans hold well together. More to do however between now and then out on the trails!

[@backpackingcapebreton]

Loving the uploads! ✌🏼

[@HowestheHike]

Thanks so much! More to come :-)

[@Jack-yh9xt]

I suggested this loop to you couple of years ago on CT, glad you finally did it. Phil Richards is one of most knowledgeable guys on eastern BNP & you probably got more ideas from him. Thanks for this, even if I've been there really enjoyed your perspective. Move to Canmore, they need bakers over here :)

[@HowestheHike]

Yes you did!! Are used to love that for him and wish it was more active. Everybody there had extensive knowledge that if you have. Highly valuable. Phil is a Banff beast. This guy knows every trail practically and is such a wonderful person to talk to and to spend time with. Love the guy. And I have a lot of people asking me to move to Canmore :-) seriously. Not sure about the baking part but I'm open to all ideas!

[@kimchaffey9827]

All I can say is WOW! Epic hike for sure. Enjoyed every day of it. To experience it I watched with my breakfast each morning. a friend of mine did Fish Lakes and Molar creek this year. Another one for list next year! Probably not the full loop you did, gotta start off small. Thanks for taking me along.

[@HowestheHike]

It WAS an epic hike! So far my highlight of the summer I would have to say but there's still more to come :-) I really appreciate your comments and appreciate you watching the video. Keep in touch!

[@jjinthemountains369]

Awesome, Stu. Some day I'll get to the Clearwater. Sigh. Thanks for posting!

[@HowestheHike]

Thank you! And yes I'm sure one day you will :-) it's easy to access from either end, and that whole area is spectacular. I can't wait to get back and explore more. You're welcome to join me at any time :-)

[@johnversluys]

Wow, congratulations on completing your hike! What fantastic views. It was great meeting up with you again on day 1, we’re so glad you made it. Maybe one day our paths will cross again. Cheers! John and Helen.

[@HowestheHike]

Thanks John! It was one for the books that's for sure. And it was SO great to see you both again. Please do keep in touch and give my best to Helen :-)

[@calebsavage]

Wow, you’ve got a new fan and subscriber in me. I’ve watched a couple of your other videos and am only halfway through this one, but just had to hit pause to say how much I appreciate your content! You’ve got an infectiously uplifting personality and I look forward to watching more vids. Keep up the amazing work!

[@HowestheHike]

WOW, thanks!! I really appreciate the kind words, and even more happy that you're now here subscribing and following along! Hope you'll keep in touch with your own exploits, and reach out if you need anything!!

[@jtexplores4966]

Great adventure you had! Thanks so much for sharing. Your videos are full of inspiration, humour, helpful tidbits and of course the dazzling fordings. As I was watching I was also plotting the route in Gaia for a future expedition of my own. I would really appreciate it if you could share your route as well as waypoint markers for some of the key landmarks you encountered. Thanks again for the great videos you produce!!

[@HowestheHike]

Thanks so much! I really appreciate your kind words. Once I get off the trail next week I will go ahead and share those tracks. With a few notes of course because there were a couple of sections where I got a bit off the mark.

[@stephenbouchard8075]

Thanks for sharing !

[@HowestheHike]

My pleasure! Hope you are having a great summer as well :-)

[@stephenbouchard8075]

@@HowestheHike you seem to be getting the kilometres in!

[@HowestheHike]

Been a great season so far!! Don't want it to end...

[@DanSmith-sq9qp]

Thanks Stuart. Just loaded your track onto my Gaia

[@HowestheHike]

My pleasure. Just make sure that you've had a peek at the notes I left on some of the tracks. As I may have mentioned I seemed to lose the Trail heading into the outfitters camp after forwarding the Clearwater river. And of course around the wardens cabin after divide pass there is a circle there that should be ignored. Enjoy the hike, it's one of my favourites so far!

[@DanSmith-sq9qp]

Will do. I am rewatching it,likely more than once. I will also be going counterclockwise so that will be taken into consideration@@HowestheHike

[@HowestheHike]

Ah- yes! I think counterclockwise might clear up some of the issues I had, although you never know, they might create different ones for you :-) that's all the fun of being out in this absolutely amazing place. One of the top hikes of the year for me for sure! Enjoy and stay safe :-)

[@LordBobCanada]

Well, that's incredible. Already thinking about it for August next year and it's still August this year.

[@HowestheHike]

Part of the fun is the planning and anticipation! I actually know people who enjoy planning a little more than the daily grind ha ha! This is an incredible area and I have more to explore there for sure. Shingle flats is not to be missed. Thanks so much for the comment and for watching!

[@andrewduncan7643]

Another epic adventure there Stuart. At first I thought it was my next years Rocky adventure which is similar beginning at Mosquito Creek Trailhead and ending at Helen lake Trailhead with Devon Lakes and a couple climbs in between. I've wondered about that route you did for a while and now thanks to this I know what's out there. Had a close up grizz encounter myself at Brazeau just a few hundred meters before Four Point August 2nd in the willows to the right that got the blood pumping. If I hadn't looked up when I did I would have walked right into that bruiser was headed. He never saw me and I was happy with that. lol. Quick question for you. What is your favorite Rockies adventure so far and why so? Cheers Stuart.

[@HowestheHike]

Thanks so much Andrew ! Wow, that is some crazy bear story! That could've ended differently for sure!! This certainly is right up there in the top five I would say. But it's really hard to pick just one because they all are so different and depending on the company. With that in mind I'd have to say my favourite hike to date is the South Boundary Trail because of the time I spent with Evelyn. we didn't see people for eight days until we got to the Brazeau area and it was a pretty special hike for a lot of reasons.

[@nikolajquaade9050]

Hi Stu! Do you know if its possible to buy a "bear-box" in the city of Banff when hiking in the random zone?? Does one need meet up in the Banff Visitor center to register or other before hiking out in the random zone? Regards, Nikolaj.

[@HowestheHike]

I'll do your last question first. Even in the random zone, you must pay a per night fee. You absolutely must have a permit! I suggest contacting the Lake Louise Trail office not Banff. Lake Louise staff have a lot more knowledge of the backcountry team unfortunately. I suggest calling them directly. With regard to bear canisters, I do not think they are like some of the national parks in the United States where they will lend out bear containers. (Teton, Olympic, etc...) I think you will have to get your own or look online to see if anybody in the Calgary - Banff - Canmore area rents them! I could be wrong about the park but I would certainly check on it.

[@darcymonchakphotography]

Great to see this Stuart. Looked like Phil is using lightweight hiking shoes - we are still using more boots - but are considering a change as that would drop about half the weight from the feet. Thoughts?

[@HowestheHike]

My pleasure and thanks so much for and for making a comment! I too have been thinking about switching to shoes to be honest. Not necessarily because of the weight but simply because of the heat. I just finished four days in the Bob Marshall Wilderness and my feet were blazing hard at the end of each day. I certainly will keep the boots around for more rugged terrain but I think a good hiking shoe is something that's in my future for sure. Keep me posted on what you learn as well!

[@rhondawilliamson72]

Another epic video, my daughter asks what you watching? my response, I'm on a hike with Stu, she just laughs. I'm like @mandyanne31 I'm so scared of bears that I only like going for short walks and I take my dogs. I bet if I was in a party of 10 and slept in the middle I'd be fine. I would love to do the West Coast Trail with a group, that video didn't look to scary. So my question is I don't see many dogs on your hikes is it to dangerous to take them out there? stay safe

[@HowestheHike]

Thank you! How very kind :-) Going out with a large group, or with someone with lots of experience, gives you a lot of peace of mind. I highly recommend it! With regard to dogs, I would never take one into grizzly country. There are just too many stories of bears provoking aggression from a bear, dogs off leash coming back into camp with a bear following them, and other, worse things. So I would leave the dog home before venturing off into any bear country but particularly in grizzly bear land.

[@chrismiddleton8036]

I've looked at this hike for a while and after re watching this video I've decided to do it this summer. I've never solo hiked in such a remote area but you sold me on it. (I solo once a year though) When you stayed at the abandoned horse camp that took a bit to find would you stay there again or was there another area near by you would choose? It looked good but your other nights campsites were epic.

[@HowestheHike]

Hi Chris! Well, I'm glad this may have spurred you along a little bit to explore this amazing area. It's one of the longer solo trips I've ever done, although I did have company on the first night and last night due to the campsites, and I did have Phil with me for an evening as well. I do love this area of the part very much and I plan to get back in and explore some other sections, I've yet to see. Yeah, the abandoned horse camp was a bit difficult to find, but if you look at my GPS tracks that I've shared here, you'll see where I started from the next morning. If I were you, I would load that on your device and then you will know where I started the next morning and it should make things a lot simpler finding the camp the day prior. but, I would absolutely stay at that abandoned horse camp again. It's a lovely spot with clean water and very very quiet. If you need anything else, shoot me a note, I'd be happy to help!

[@chrismiddleton8036]

@@HowestheHike I definitely will pick your brain about getting the random permits in banff. I've never had to get them but I hear it's not to bad

[@HowestheHike]

Reach out to me directly. My email is here somewhere but also through my website. You will have NO trouble getting permits for this whatsoever. But, always use Lake Louise visitor centre for these types of permits. Unfortunately, Banff is so busy in the summer, most of the staff are kids from university, and they don't have the knowledge of how to use the system to book these rather odd permitting trips. No knock on the kids! Just an honest assessment of where you'll find the best help.

[@ivyjeansugot1991]

thanks for sharing, enjoyed and always looking forward for next upload. does phil have you tube channel? if there is, pls. send the link. thanks.

[@HowestheHike]

Thank you so much! There are a few more to come :-) no, Phil does not have a KZbin channel but my goodness I wish he did! He has hiked 95% of the trails in Banff National Park and has knowledge probably beyond anyone else. It's quite amazing to be honest.

[@ivyjeansugot1991]

thanks.

[@HowestheHike]

Any time

[@marcofthetrail]

Attaway!! You're on a mission this year! I suspected you might be doing this.

[@HowestheHike]

Thanks Marc. I did not expect to be on a mission this summer but what the heck right? I just got off a hike from the other side of the red deer with plenty more to explore in that area. I think I'm getting addicted to the random zones :-) more to come!

[@marcofthetrail]

@@HowestheHike I've posted a few comments on here today but now I don't see them anymore. Weird. The horse crossing of the Red Deer river you saw at the end of day 4 is to the Scotch Camp cabin which is just up the hill on the other side of the river. So the park staff just cross there instead of going to the bridge to the East.

[@HowestheHike]

Hey Marc - not sure why that would be... I do hold all comments for review, however. I started this practice back when I was hiking with my daughters and we received a few rather rude and "unsavoury" comments. I've actually never changed the setting, so I approve all comments when I'm off the trail and back here on KZbin. I don't delete anything and typically approve everything. That's perhaps why sometimes you'll see a delay in your comment appearing. Other times, there's no delay whatsoever after I approve your first comment. So I don't understand this, and I'll have to look into why on e approved, subsequent comments are held....

[@marcofthetrail]

@@HowestheHike Oh I'm sure they were just more ramblings about the trail anyhow lol. Comments about your daughters? Lord...the internet has zero class. I hope they are well. I remember Evelyn talking about going to Dalhousie University. That come to pass? It's ok if you'd rather not say on here.

[@HowestheHike]

I always approve your comments, so they're here somewhere! That is - if I see them :-) this interface is challenging when it comes to comments I find... She did not end up in Halifax but she's in a lovely big city and now applying to med school. Thanks for asking about her. And yes, the Internet can be a very interesting place candidate?

[@headinthemountains1666]

Just curious what you are doing for navigation aids on epic journeys like this one?? I believe you are Gaia user which is phone app (correct me if I'm wrong)? Do bring an old fashion paper map at all? Also do you use anything like a Garmin handheld GPS device? Thank sharing all those wonderful views!

[@HowestheHike]

Great question! I am a diehard Gaia user - yes. I download all my map layers for off-line use and keep my iPhone in airplane mode. However, I also carry a Garmin inreach mini. I have the Explore app on my iPhone and both of these are tracking my hike at any given time. Those who follow me online can see where I'm at via the web face from garmin and of course I keep the Gaia tracks so I can share GPX tracks with others especially in remote areas where they might be going in the same place. My friend Markus from Switzerland teases me a lot about not carrying paper maps! I do not carry a paper map very often anymore especially in places where GAIA has a NatGeo layer. I am heading to a Yellowstone as I write this and there's a great Nat Geo layer for it on Gaia. So for me I'm not going to carry the extra weight of the paper map. That said, I do love a paper map for planning. It gives perspective an iPhone screen can't . Hope this helps!

[@headinthemountains1666]

@@HowestheHike This does help. Guess I will look into using GAIA.......maybe a GAIA for dummies (old fart) book. I asked you in a previous post year ago about moving to Alberta......just wondering if you have changed your mind after hikes like this summer. ..... don't get me wrong New Brunswick is nice.

[@HowestheHike]

HAHA - no "old fart" required for you! GAIA is great though. I did work in Alberta for a short time this winter/ spring and then took the summer off to backpack and decide what I want to do next. Of course, if anything came up in the mountain areas, I would move there in a heartbeat! So hey - keep me posted!

[@billbagshaw8209]

Just curious. I’ve always brought tevas as camp shoes and the wear for river crossings. Is there a reason why you leave your boots on?

[@HowestheHike]

That's a really great question. It's because I bring crappy shoes as camp shoes. I've always brought crocs or some substitute for crocs. And they are NOT good for crossing swift water that you can't see through. So, I leave my boots on because they are really well connected to my feet via lacing, and they have the best tread. If you bring laced shoes with good treads for water, absolutely take them off no question. But I sure hope they are super late because every gram counts as we all know. For me it's a trade-off between weight and stability. That said, I'm always reassessing this sort of stuff and I have seen friends of mine this summer have good treaded shoes with laces that are very very light and drain water quickly via mesh. I may look into that for next season to keep my good socks and boots drier. For me what's important when crossing these opaque and swift rivers is stability. If I can replace that with something that's not my heavy boots, I would love it!

[@billbagshaw8209]

I have crossed some serious rivers with my tevas and they worked great. I met two 60+yr old gentleman this year at Jonas cutoff who were ultralighters. They had teva like sandals from zero something. They were so light and meant for barefoot running so they were very secure on their feet. Something to consider.

[@HowestheHike]

I will have to look at these for sure. Thanks!

[@timreimer1286]

Cool trip. Would you mind sharing the gps track?

[@HowestheHike]

Thank you. I certainly will once I've had a chance to clean up a couple of errors on my track. There were a couple of times I did not trust my map or instincts and I would not want to lead anyone off trail. Check in with me in a month or so and I will make sure to have the tracks uploaded.

[@DanSmith-sq9qp]

Hi Stuart. have you posted your route yet? It would be reassuring to have it. I am hoping to go mid september. How much water did you carry at a time?

[@HowestheHike]

Hi Dan, I just posted the route today. Sorry for the delay. Please do look at a couple of notes regarding route finding that I added to a couple of the daily tracks. Super important not to repeat my mistakes :-) enjoy the hike. it's an awesome one, and probably the highlight of my entire summer so far.

[@DanSmith-sq9qp]

Thank you Stuart for the quick reply. Your track will serve as a big comfort. @@HowestheHike

[@HowestheHike]

My pleasure. ENJOY this area!!!

[@shawnyork9065]

I wonder now if this was the beer from Fridays attack ?

[@shawnyork9065]

Sorry Bear.... Terrible tragedy...

[@HowestheHike]

It would be impossible to say with 100% certainty, however, there is a high likelihood this bear was involved in someway. Speculation, of course, but far too coincidental for me to see an aggressive bear in the exact same area basically. And when I saw this bear in August, it was not in very good shape from what I could tell regarding its bulking up for winter.

[@apmde]

@@HowestheHike The bear that attacked the hikers wasn't in good condition either - it was quite skinny and old.

[@Canuckiwi]

@@HowestheHike I was reading about this today, it was a 25 year old Female Grizzly in poor shape, also less than 100KM from where a elder female grizzly attacked a jogger in Waiparous last year, that Grizzly (which could also be the same one) was never found. Interesting that the two campers in this area both had 2 cans of bear spray and they managed to send a message off once they had been attacked, but I wonder if they were hurt so badly that they died straight after they sent it since they didn't send anymore messages. Also they noted in the article that it was raining, and I wonder how effective the bear spray is in the rain. Do you carry one of those messaging systems when you hike?

[@HowestheHike]

Yes, lots of details out now and we also know this was not a bear that was known to the park. One can of bear spray was completely emptied but the other one was not touched, and there was evidence that perhaps one of them had been out of the tent. Bear spray is still effective in light rain but not heavy wind unless you can get to the right side of the wind. I can't believe they got any bear spray into this bear's face or the attack would've stopped. That said, perhaps the damage was already done. I do carry a Garmin inReach mini and use the Explorer app on my iPhone to send messages and such. I would never travel anywhere in the backcountry without having this unit on and tracking me. I also give my family access to be able to track me in real time via a web-based Garmin page.

[@shawnyork9065]

No signs of bison ?

[@HowestheHike]

LOTS of bison signs. Patties everywhere! But I didn't get to see them they're very elusive and probably further down the panther river towards a Park Boundary

[@lucyporter2544]

Do you think that was THE bear? Very disturbing encounter in retrospect :(

[@HowestheHike]

I will never know with 100% certainty. But I do not believe this bear was wearing a collar and it was very small for the time of year. It had also dug up the entire area of divide pass. There is not much rodent life on that past typically so I think it was very desperate. Again I've will never know, but I have an eerie feeling this was the exact same bear.

[@lucyporter2544]

@@HowestheHike Yikes. Really makes you reconsider these close calls now, doesn't it?

[@HowestheHike]

It does. Time of year helped me for sure.