The Community suggested these upgrades - I have listened

[@usa-ev]

I generally regarded myself as a pretty happy easy-going guy until watching Andy. :) Always positive and smiling, such a nice breath of fresh air!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Love that! Thank you.

[@muddy11111]

I like the push button idea. If you add a LED and 4700 ohm current limiting resistor in parallel with your precharge resistor, you get an indicator that goes out when the capacitors are charged. If the inverter has been left on it won’t go out. Yes I’ve done it as well...

[@theonlywoody2shoes]

Ian H A friend of mine who’s works in house construction told me about the “rule of three” When you design and build a home you do the first one for your enemy, the second for a friend, and only then with #3 should you build one for yourself. I guess it’s the same with battery boxes (not to mention inverter enclosures). You may find System 3.0 has a MultiPlus in place of the inverter, I bit that bullet eventually myself and haven’t looked back since, but I’m looking forward to the “journey” that you take getting there - wherever that may be. Great content as always, educational and entertaining, stay safe.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Oh god, another two system I have to build??? 😴

[@ktcustom778]

Your assistant scurried away at 14:25.. Nice build. Never has to be fancy, just work for it's purpose and mistakes are the lessons we learn. Appreciate the channel and your discussions off the cuff.

[@ennyw20]

Unglaublich.... Das Abbo hast dir wirklich verdient.. Ich Fummel auch schon paar Jahre mit Lithium und solar.. Aber hier lernst ständig dazu..... Daumen hoch

[@PowerPaulAu]

Excellent idea once again. I've done very similar for the batteries I'm manufacturing. They have a 22ohm Pre-Charge resistor built in, so there's no excuse to skip such a worthwhile step. :)

[@jmaus2k]

If nothing goes wrong you might not even have to touch that box again. You did a good job don't be so hard on yourself. Safe design is the most important. Add fans to your charge controller/inverter box so don't kill them with heat. Then add some more solar panels on your roof and really get some use out of those batteries.

[@Mr.X3D]

”If nothing goes wrong” Famous last words 😄

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Yeah, it's all working as designed, just not as pretty and functional any more as intended.

[@SuperVstech]

That RED negative cable just bothers me sooooo much... I would get a black marker and cover it ...

[@AQUATICSLIVE]

That conduit is neat that you get where you live. The stuff we use is a bit different not as flexible. Precharge is a fun idea.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

The cables look very beefy now in this conduit. It's good stuff, nice and flexible.

[@richardowens9061]

What is interesting about the precharge resistor is that it can be in the circuit ALL THE TIME. The inverter is not going to be drawing a consequential amount of current whether the resistor is in place, or not. The problem with the push button is that if you forget to push it, you defeat the purpose of having it. All it takes is once to blow your capacitors in your inverter. Electric golf carts use precharge resistors that are always connected across the main contactor for the motor circuit, as an example. The key switch is what energizes the precharge resistor and then the pedal energizes the contactor. But, as long as the key switch is in the on position, the precharge resistor is energized.

[@SpeakerKevin]

Love the resistor push button set-up!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

It's great, right. Not that I use it often, but I could 😊

[@Adlay_Eetswah]

I love the pre-charge button Andy, very creative, don’t beat yourself up too much over your box, nothing ever works out with version 1 of any build, box 2.0 will be a success 👍🏽

[@charlesrichards5389]

On your next build, instead of a two position switch and a push button, you could make it a little simpler with a three position switch: off / pre-charge / on.

[@Sylvan_dB]

Personally I prefer the pushbutton. It works with the most common off/on switches and allows me to hold the button while I turn on the switch.

[@Sanwizard1]

Love the pushbutton. I am doing that myself. As an FYI, that Blue Sea systems main switch is not rated for 48V. I was going to use the same one, but called their support folks, who confirmed that for 12V and 24V, the switch is fine, but it is not rated for 48V systems. Its rated UP to 48V, but not over. When charging, you are over 48V. It may work fine most of the time, but in an emergency under high load, the contacts can arc.

[@landonferguson7282]

Still an awesome little system.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you.

[@JeremyAkersInAustin]

I think all you need to do to fix your box is move your board back a bit: Instead trying to position it as close to the end of the box where the cables and switch are mounted, just move it back a foot or so closer to the center of the box. That way you can lift it out without disconnecting any cables. You could also switch to using Anderson style connectors (They make them up to 350 amps) to make it easy to quickly disconnect/reconnect cables instead of having to get your socket/wrench out every time you need to disconnect. The bigger box would just waste space. I think you can easily tweak this one to work better, you just need to space things out a bit and moving that BMS board back a foot or so would make a huge difference in spacing.

[@peterrock2838]

Great new modifications! Nice work! Thank you for the video!

[@551moley]

I had to laugh 🤣 your setup looks superb👌 mine looks like a "Snake's wedding" I keep telling myself function over form. Never let a gasman do electrics!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

😁 hahaha, I have seen pictures online. Well, as long as it works...

[@SpeakerKevin]

That step drill that you used is the best!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I never owned one until this built. Now it's my favourite tool!

[@ssteele1812]

For future reference, the step drill will cut sideways, like an endmill. No need to file the recess for the hinge spring.

[@teardowndan5364]

You could add an LED indicator and/or buzzer in parallel with the precharge resistors using a current or voltage regulator, then you'd have a visible or audible indicator until voltage across resistors goes down to 3-5V.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

There is literally no space inside this box any more for more gadgets. also, the voltage would drop again once the inverter starts and consumes power. So holding for too long does not help either.

[@sprinterdiscovery]

I absolutely love your channel. Each time I watch there's something new to learn! Looking forward to your next video! Lots of love from Vancouver Canada!

[@robfre70]

I never ever used a pre charge resistor. I use a high speed battery switch witch kills any spark. And after I switched on I start the inverter and all dc loads. No problem so far.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

It's not so much about the spark but more about the inrush current you could get which could kill your BMS or other electronics. But I don't use it either when having a switch connected.

[@henvern]

An alternative to a resistor is an appropriately chosen light bulb. It lets you see the pre-charge working. If your system has a short the the light won’t go out so you know not to close the main switch.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

An 48V light bulb? I think they used these in older control panels/switchboards. I may have some floating around somewhere...

[@MrSummitville]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Incandescent bulbs FAIL. This Power Resistor will not ...

[@vopezy]

Maybe over thinking it but hold that button down and while doing so flip the switch on. Im not sure if essentially turning it on then off and on (via the button) would have any long term effects. I guess im thinking of it like a computer. I wouldn't want my power to come on then off and back on within a matter of seconds.

[@rattusfinkus]

I'm converting a tinny to an electric outboard and I think I have found the ideal material for a battery box. I am going to use aluminium planks and rivet nuts. The hollow planks allow for sockets, gauges, plugs and wiring to be housed in the outer skin, the planks are strong enough to constrain any battery expansion and the aluminium can help conduct heat out of the batteries. My set up will contain 16 x 272 lishens. The box will then act as a bench seat in the boat and when not in use will supplement my home system. The box will be superior to a pelican type box and end up costing half as much. Any thoughts?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Great project. Make some videos about it. I'll watch.

[@rattusfinkus]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia I will.

[@chrisfryer3118]

I'm ready for the v.2 version, as I'm thinking of a 24v build after watching this series.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Do it!

[@nigelcharles511]

Ref your idea of box 2.0. Although not relevant to you, having a bit more space for insulation and battery heater for winter operation might be appropriate for those of us who wish to charge the LiFePo4 batteries in low temperatures. I will be mounting mine in a very small camping trailer (internal dimensions 1.2m x 1.0m x 0.5m). It will have 32 x 280Ahr cells with inverter) to provide 28kwh mobile power. No more need for noisy and smelly generators.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

What inverter do you use in such a small space. People freak out about my setup even this inverter I'm using was designed for such small tight spaces.

[@nigelcharles511]

As this is a mobile application I will be forced to enclose it inside the trailer with vents and computer type fans which I will control with a thermostat. Here in the UK the temperatures are rarely a problem but I will use a 5kva unit for a 3kva application to ensure no trip outs during hot weather. My off-grid location (an airfield) is about 2km from home which I visit on a daily basis and have no way of adding solar at home so will bring the energy home for my wife's EV for overnight charging when there is no time to take it to the airfield. As a result I will need the Victron unit with charger as well to transfer charge from my off-grid hangar. So to answer your question I will be using the Victron MultiPlus 5000VA, 48V Inverter Charger. As the airfield is totally off-grid having a mobile source of 240v power will enable me to sell the generator. Even now (early Spring in the UK) we are running the EV purely on sunshine covering 1500km/month which is very satisfying.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Wow, what an interesting setup and solution. What EV has she got?

[@nigelcharles511]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Our current EV is Kia eSoul which is our second car. I hope to replace my VW Golf with the new Kia EV6 later this year. I was thinking of buying a Tesla but the V2L (Vehicle to Load) capability of the Kia has made change my mind. Also I do prefer hatchbacks. The Model Y is too wide for my garage and in any case won't be available for a while yet in the UK.

[@lennieadi]

Don't be hard on yourself Andy. This is teaching me. So I'm very happy. Well done. I had the idea similar to someone on here to put a led light or a audible bleep for pre-charge information. Otherwise great looking generator box. Love it. Looking forward to B2 wall mount with same 280 eves or lishens. 🇯🇲🇬🇧👊🏾

[@jamest.5001]

I was going to suggest a pushbutton switch with a resistor, to pre-charge caps, before hitting the switch! It could be a real convenience if the battery is ever turned off!

[@edwardvanhazendonk]

Great progress Andy, good to see your community is working together things are turning out great, also showing these steps will let us learn also. I wouldn't worry to much on the inside of the box, when the lid is closed you won't see it and how often do you look inside the box if all is working well. I was thinking about your bike charger, do you run a cable now from your house to it? If so why not use the old connection outside the garage where you have the connection to grid 😁 but then again, you might not use this much. And why build a Rolls Royce if a VW does the job very well. Good luck and thanks for explaining everything. This will definitly help people in an island setup of battery and solar powered garage/home.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank Edward. Always appreciate your comments and feedback. I don't use the e-Bike charger often. This is more an emergency backup and peace of mind setting. The battery is with 14kWh so large I rarely run it down I would need the charger. And, the sun is always shining here. We had 5 days of rain weather last week and I still could charge the battery by 10% every day.

[@henvan8737]

XLR connectors are used in the recording industry for microphones and audio from recorders etc, and not designed as a power connector involving amps. I would consider a more suitable connector arrangement.

[@hommerdalor6301]

Hello Andy. I think you did ok, by putting everything on the same side.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks 👍 The intention was there to make it perfect but, well, 2.0 is coming at some stage...

[@harrymuurling2742]

so much learned again, thanks again and I will follow also this solution, so simple but effective

[@Sylvan_dB]

Not a file. Soft HDPE plastic like those totes I usually just carve it with my knife. I love the pushbutton to precharge. :) I like an LED in the circuit. When first pushed the LED lights but as the current drops down the LED goes out.

[@serversurfer6169]

*Andy* you _need_ a good rotary tool, like a Dremel. It would make enlarging and reshaping those holes much easier. Then you could make room for the second wire leading into your fuse box, for example. Plus, once you have the tool, you’ll find a million other uses for it. You can even get battery operated ones from Ryobi or someone similar. 💜🤓👍

[@jamest.5001]

Instead of a resistor, you could use a light bulb, when it goes out, caps charged, and the main switch can be turned on, a 120v /220 with 48v bulb can be used, or a resistor with a 12v incandescent bulb, as long as it's about 10 -20 ohm 5watt resistor,

[@MrSummitville]

He already has LED's that show exactly when the Charge Controller & Inverter are ON. Adding an incandescent light bulb, adds nothing but another failure point ...

[@jamess1787]

"Flapping in the breeze" as Dave Jones would say :D

[@richardowens9061]

A more elegant solution is to have two power switches - a master power switch that connects and disconnects the battery pack from the entire circuit that is almost never turned on/off, and a second push on/off low current switch that energizes a high current contactor. Then, the contactor should have a precharge resistor of about 600 ohms connected across the main power terminals so that it is always energized as long as the main power switch is on. Then, the contactor should be activated using the push on/off button. That way, you don't ever have to think about the precharge resistor again and you can place the low current push on/off buttton in a remote location that is more convenient. If this interests you, let me know and I can make some recommendations for components.

[@AGhostInTheMachine]

make a video?

[@KevIsOffGrid]

Ah well, Box 2.0 = more content to brighten our days.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I guess, there will be more, yes...

[@brucebugbee6604]

Andy, good job with your project, but @9:52 I winced really hard when you set the uninsulated wrench on top of the cardboard you had covering the cell terminals. There was a whole row of bus bars exposed on one side of the box. It's not a good work practice to work around the battery terminals with uninsulated tools like that. You don't want to see all your hard work literally go up in smoke. I had a situation where I dropped an allen wrench while I was working on my battery terminals and if I had not previously insulated it with electrical tape I would have had a major arc flash in front of my face. Just saying be careful.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Yes, I need to be more careful with that. Thanks.

[@andresgodinho]

In the last minutes of the vídeo, after you set the câmera down when you were pushing the pre-button, what was the thing crowling around under the box????

[@codiecarroll735]

Looked like a roll-poly or pillbug

[@jamest.5001]

When you get the new bms, will you go over it in detail? Actually test the balance current? With DC clamp meter? I'm thinking about going one, for a 1000+ah 24v bank, it will require a bit to maintain balance, if it gets out much, good day sir!!

[@rodneyhrytsak3407]

Hi Andy! In one of your videos you debated fusing balance leads at the ring terminals. Did you ever do this and if so what fuses did you decide to use?

[@landonashby2029]

Idea for Battery Box 2.0, placing an audible alarm on the precharge button. Nothing annoying just something similar to the multimeter.

[@MrSummitville]

Why?

[@landonashby2029]

Audio verification the circuit has been completed. Also do to the battery pack's location, in a garage on the floor, you would know if it accidentally got pressed. Most Importantly all about the Bling...and why not? We are definitely past the simple battery build at this point so trick it out. 😎

[@MrSummitville]

@@landonashby2029 He can already see the LED lights on the Charge Controller and the Inverter. That is all that he needs. Adding more junk than can fail, is just bad engineering ...

[@bobfoulke4875]

Andy, informative video as always. I would just leave the box the way it is until you need to expand the system (like when you decide to take the house off line or at least supplemented by solar)

[@johnc5937]

Add a bms reset button… and glue the lid on!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I can reset the BMS with the app 😉

[@johnc5937]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Another U-Tuber said when the BMS he was using “hit a limit” and shutdown that he had to short across the BMS to reset it. By shorting the negative lead from battery to negative lead to the load.

[@dd9332]

Damn, I just bought the large version of that tub for storage and couldn't place where I'd seen it before... 'duh, Andys channel! I was thinking - that resistor in the BMS that lets some power through before it's relay kicks in.. that couldn't possibly be there to do the precharging to save the relay suffering from early death due to inrush current/sparking? I remember you decided it was probably for power saving so it doesn't need to have the relay energised during standby, but I can't help but think they were trying to reduce the chances of sparks in the relay killing it.

[@eildertferwerda2163]

don't know if it is of any use to you, I have a Victron Phoenix inventer. When I turn on the inventer then a magnet switch on, then I get 220 from the inventer.When I turn off the inventer then the magnet switchI back a get 220 or grit.this way I can manually switch between my panels (Inverter) or Grit

[@michaelsweeney3241]

Time for a battery wall, order another lot of batteries and build a more solid construction?!?!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

You're not the first saying that...

[@jadu79]

I wonder why so few use light bulbs instead of resistors as it would show by going out when the voltage drop across the wire decreases (it is also easier to find light bulbs for a car than some resistors)

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Hmmm, never thought about this. Maybe there are not many 48V light bulbs?

[@charlesrichards5389]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Four 12v bulbs in series.

[@MrSummitville]

@@charlesrichards5389 Incandescent bulbs FAIL. This Power Resistor will not ....

[@charlesrichards5389]

@@MrSummitville Is here someone on this forum who doesn't know that? I wasn't answering a reliability question. Chill dude.

[@MrSummitville]

@@charlesrichards5389 I was addressing the reliability issue. Incandescent bulbs fail. Incandescent bulbs are a bad idea ....

[@budmartin3344]

Another good video. The charger can only charge the batteries at 5A max?

[@JJLock]

Oh if only you had a Dremmel......

[@normandbeaulieu6413]

Pre charging ‘’Nice ‘’ but I should say Mice running !!!! At 14:24.....

[@nortonis3565]

If there is a spark in a big breaker like that, can the spark damage something ? I have a remote control on my inverter, så i can turn it on after i powered on the main swith. But i think it it is allready charged before the romote, so i am not sure.

[@BobHannent]

Every time someone uses an XLR for power, an audio engineer loses his wings...

[@williamjones8507]

Love the additions but I am wondering if the button you are using for the precharge resistor is rated for 50v? Not sure if it really matters but I would be a little worried about that switch welding closed!

[@MrSummitville]

You think the switch will "weld closed" even with the resistor?

[@itsfpv2561]

Hi Andy, What size resistor should I use for a 12v system connecting to a 1500w invertor? I currently have a 50w 20 Ohm J one lying around would that be ok?

[@MrSummitville]

Connect your 20 ohm resistor to your discharged Inverter and see how long it takes to turn on. 50 Watts is plenty big.

[@andreiapostolache3487]

13:40 the box is perfect after all works ok for a Wile u Will dont mess with It anymore

[@JosephStory]

Oh look, Squirrel!

[@neliosamch3195]

This DIY power generator is more simple, reliable and cheaper than the Goal zero 400 or Jackery 3000.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

It just works. And if something goes wrong, you know what and can fix it in no time.

[@petercamusojr1545]

If it works don't fix it. You do professional builds.

[@BajanAlan]

I heard the Victron invertors do not use capisators!

[@MrSummitville]

Where is that documented ?

[@ebenwaterman5858]

I've got a couple of ideas to improve the battery box. No I don't. Just kidding. Shove it in the corner. :)

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I was just start reading and thought, Oh, no! Not again 😂

[@ebenwaterman5858]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia ;)

[@tabineshhtc]

Hi sir

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

What's up?

[@TheDtwilson]

new box, new box, new box

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Arghhh, give me a break...

[@TBL_stevennelson]

I always say that the first designs is just to test our theories. The last Design is far away and that always has compromises over Aesthetics. I do like your idea of removing the Electronics as one unit.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks Steven. The next design will be different...😉

[@andreiapostolache3487]

5:56 u dont ned the switch buton, the current will travel true the resistor when circuit is open and when is clouse no current will go true the resistor this is how the litl red light on the switch of the lights work just put the resistor in paralel with the disconect swich

[@MrSummitville]

No, that defeats the disconnect switch. A Disconnect Switch in the OFF position means ... OFF.

[@andreiapostolache3487]

@@MrSummitville sorry i explained bad i mean no ned push button

[@MrSummitville]

@@andreiapostolache3487 The answer is still No, you should NOT connect the resistor in parallel with the disconnect switch. You do need a momentary switch, to activate the Pre-Charge resistor. Best if this was integrated ( as automatic or manual ) inside the Inverter by the manufacturer ...

[@offgridwanabe]

You need a set of operating instructions and specifications for that battery box lol

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Yes, I will!