The DIYson Electronics Pushed my Limits - DIYson Lamp Build Log #7

It’s always satisfying to pull off something that you didn’t think you could do. In this video, I tackle the electronics portion of the DIYson and create my very first PCB, a process that has intimidated me for years. In the next build log I hope to correctly pronounce “Adafruit” consistently.
That Adafruit PCB tutorial:
learn.adafruit.com/making-pcb...
Current project files repository and parts list: github.com/stevenbennett/DIYson
My favorite filament: amzn.to/3j5RVws
Subscribe to the channel: / @stevenbennettmakes
--
Swelling Dramatic Music:
Danse Macabre - Isolated Harp by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommons.org/licenses/...
Source: freepd.com/Classical/Danse%20M...
Artist: incompetech.com/

[@jlunder1]

the is one of my favorite ongoing series on KZbin any suggestions to interest design vlogs that are similar?

[@StevenBennettMakes]

Wow, Jake, you read my mind. I was considering adding this in a little section to my videos, but I'll just give you my recs directly: Very similar style of videos (basically direct inspirations for my channel) but with game development: DevDuck: www.youtube.com/@DevDuck Thin Matrix: www.youtube.com/@ThinMatrix Smaller channels that are similar in spirit (I think): Felix Schelhasse: kzbin.info/door/UI60hHqVzmePotF83Ecxhw Amy Makes Stuff: kzbin.info Winston Moy: kzbin.info Stephen Hawes: kzbin.info/door/Mf49SMPnhxdLormhEpfyfg Sophy Wong: kzbin.info/door/FkrcZuO5F1GkHQdoVD8YBA NODE: www.youtube.com/@NODEtv/videos Ian Davis: kzbin.info/door/v1xxFkEiAdCVy6foEEUIvw Mihai Designs: kzbin.info/door/MvNnP9oAQl5IApL8XBQIkQ Big channels (chances are you already follow them): Tested: kzbin.info Laura Kampf: www.youtube.com/@laurakampf Zack Freedman: kzbin.info Click Spring: kzbin.info/door/worsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA DIY Perks: kzbin.info

[@ocieward]

I couldn’t agree more!

[@jlunder1]

youtube.com/@ContraptionCollection this one is also incredible

[@John-gw3mj]

It's not as much design but Leo at Sampson Boat Co (www.youtube.com/@SampsonBoatCo) has spent the last 5 years rebuilding and documenting an old sailing yacht. He's definitely got the same attention to detail as Steven!

[@BuzzingGoober]

Balisong scissors kzbin.info/aero/PLAfxqCh9yWH5yejLNLTJLcogpVeFKXi4N

[@dmarman]

For the flickering you may try sweeping the whole frequency range and find a frequency that works with the frame rate of your camera. Maybe something close or little beyond a multiple of the Nyquist frequency would do the trick. If you record at 30fps, try between 120-125, 240-245, 480-485, etc.

[@josephslade8163]

this!

[@StevenBennettMakes]

Great idea, I'll try this

[@MrHejole]

I was going to comment for this reason exactly. Just make sure that the frequency is a multiple of the frequency of your camera and you should be good. Likely a multiple of 30 will do e.g. 990hz. But check with your camera specs. As long as you’re above 240 I wouldn’t be too worried about visible flicker IRL.

[@MrsNumeratorka]

yeah i was thinkin the same.

[@conorstewart2214]

@@MrHejole yeah the flicker is only an issue for people that film and it isn’t designed to be a filming light, it may cause some issues if people are using it as a workbench light and they are using cameras or machine vision or digital microscopes but it shouldn’t be much of an issue otherwise. Another point to consider is that the flickering may affect the future ambient light mode, there will need to be something in the code to compensate for that, although it would be pretty difficult since if the sensor is measured when the pwm is low, it would see dark and if measured when the pwm is high would see full brightness. So for that changing the frequency wouldn’t matter, it would still affect it. The only way I can see that working is if the sensor takes loads of samples and averages the brightness.

[@Eutrofication]

no lie, i immediately clicked. this is one of the most excited I've been for a series of youtube videos rn!

[@StevenBennettMakes]

😍Aw thanks, glad to hear it!

[@robinmohamed9376]

Yeah i really love this series, well done on the progress thus far.

[@markboxall6794]

Agreed, Loving the series!

[@lancehandmade]

same here, so jelly.

[@mustacheman6000]

Quick suggestion for the PCB, I would suggest adding copper pours for power and ground because a project like this that pushes a decent amount of power through the LED's needs to have some copper area to dissipate that energy. Its something many beginners miss but you'll soon figure it out the more PCB's you make. Besides that, great job!

[@bezmi]

I've built many LED lighting projects. It is slightly more advanced than using a sealed LED driver like yours, but consider designing a PCB with a LED driver IC instead. Many of these can support much higher PWM frequencies and also offer other benefits, such as multiple output channels (colour mixing of cool/warm). You can get Buck/Boost driver ICs, which require inductors but can run LEDs at a different voltage to the power supply, or linear driver ICs, which can only run LEDs below the supply voltage but don't require as many extra components. Any "extra" voltage above the forward voltage of the LED will be dissipated as heat in linear drivers so it helps to have a power supply just slightly above the LED forward voltage. I tend to use linear drivers because they're simpler and can be more efficient if the power supply and LED voltages are closely matched. Give me a shout if you want to chat!

[@ChristophLehner]

Your storytelling is outstanding 👌

[@pabblom]

you can add an overclocking hidden button you can press when recording your videos... great series! you are an inspiration man!!

[@TheMilmalik]

From one designer to another designer, I like it. I also like that you’re making it clear what has challenged you and what resources you used to learn how to make a pub etc. Excited to see how it goes!

[@Chris-bg8mk]

I feel the urge to give this more than one thumbs up! I like the way you share your engineering thought process almost more than the project itself and it's an AWESOME project!

[@StevenBennettMakes]

Thanks, Chris!

[@engineeredaf1920]

i just speed ran the entire build series after watching this one. can't wait for more 😋

[@conorstewart2214]

For the metal bracket you mentioned at the end, I don’t think it would be out the the question to make it out of sheet metal, it is a relatively simple geometry, the attachment point at the end could just be a bent up section and the heat pipe channel could be done by bending the two sides, it also won’t be visible. Then you could provide a stencil that people print out and stick on a metal sheet, then they have a guide to drill the holes, make the cuts and then file it down to the final shape, then they just need to bend it, which if made out of aluminium shouldn’t be all that difficult, it would just involve a few tools, a drill, a hacksaw, a file and probably a vice. You can get aluminium sheets very cheap, probably a lot cheaper than getting it machined.

[@sam.skinner]

Really enjoying this series. For the issue with flickering/buzzing, you could make use of the fact you're now using a custom PCB. There are a lot of ICs that will do the same thing as that drop-in LED power supply, with only a few extra components. Just had a quick search of DigiKey and it something like the MAX16832A might work. Its data sheet has the PWM dimming input frequency at 200 kHz for its standard tests-so you can put the PWM frequency much, much higher than your present 1 kHz. You may still get audible inductor noise, but at frequencies above 20 kHz you won't hear it, so that solves both issues. Alternatively, you could use that LED power supply with an analog dimmer. You'd just need a simple RC (resistor-capacitor) low-pass filter between the PWM output of your microcontroller and the analog input of the power supply. There are calculators online; you could put the -3 dB corner frequency in the ballpark of 20-50 Hz. That said, it looks like most of the analog inputs to these devices get turned back into PWM internally, so you'd want to make sure that the internal PWM generation frequency was itself sufficiently high, or you'd end up with slightly more complicated circuit with the exact same flickering issue. Some DigiKey search results for 700 mA driver ICs: www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/filter/power-management-pmic/led-drivers/745?s=N4IgjCBcoCwJwyqAxlAZgQwDYGcCmANCAPZQDaIATAOyVwCsEAukQA4AuUIAyuwE4BLAHYBzEAF9JQA I think in this case the drop-in supply is causing too many design conflicts, and an IC would serve you better, despite the extra work interpreting the data sheet. Fortunately, several of the IC data sheets are pretty comprehensive. They include formulae to calculate all of the component values, and some even have suggested PCB layouts for the IC and supporting components. (This is the case for the MAX16832A. I should point out that I haven't used it before; it just ranked highly in the search results.)

[@Kaiged11]

I'm glad this showed up in my feed. I need to go back and watch the older videos still. As far as DIY leds and heatsinks attaching directly to modular aluminum frame that incudes a flat side with thermal adheasive tape has been the most economical. I think to eliminate most of the heatsink assembly and cost if you just hacked sawed the top of the aluminum frame for electronics and tapped two holes into the bottom for you holder.

[@NightVisionOfficial]

Finally, someone making a really expensive product, that there's no reason for it's price, cheap and open source

[@miko007]

for the on camera flicking issue, it should be sufficient to set the "right" frequency instead of cranking it up like there is no tomorrow. most cameras still shoot at 25 fps (for yt and instructional videos i guess), so a multiple of that, at least so high the human eye can not detect the flicker, should work. also, that would be easy to implement in code with a settings variable like "set your camera fps here".

[@tropics1999]

If it was set to 600 I think it should work for most of the common frame rates (24, 25, 30 and 60 fps)

[@tookitogo]

I use very high PWM frequencies (20KHz and up) to avoid audible whine. In a few recent projects, I used the NXP PCA9634 8-channel LED driver, which uses a 97KHz PWM frequency. It’s also easy to control via I2C. Using white LEDs and small power MOSFETs, one can run the microcontroller and LEDs directly from a single 3.3V rail. There’s also the nearly identical (but now end-of-life) PCA9624 which includes power MOSFETs inside, allowing it to switch up to 40V at 800mA.

[@amethystleigh4646]

This is an awesome series! I know it's a little, unspoken feature but i love how there is literally no glue in this whole project! it makes it so much easier to repair and tinker. i am so sick of modern devices being held together with little more than hopes, dreams and glue. I can't wait to build my own when you're done!

[@AdrianTache]

I have to admit, when I saw the minuscule screws from this episode all I could think was glue. And, for the lamp shroud, magnets could also work.

[@thebard20]

Great series, I'm especially impressed by your refusal to make things like the led housing bigger, instead finding other solutions.

[@NoktiousGames]

Please continue to make your videos in this style. Your mistakes and workflow are super helpful to see. As someone who hopes to soon be doing the things you're doing, thank you for sharing your work, it is inspiring.

[@lars-sorensen]

I love this. Simple as that! And what a teaser for the next video! Can't wait for it...

[@wqwwqwqqpoppopoo]

I was well aware of capacitive sensors but was NOT aware of the conductive filament. That's a game changer for me so glad I watched!

[@kimlorenz7830]

The pogopin falling from the tweezer with the ??? made me laugh :D 1st time putting notifications on, ever.

[@StevenBennettMakes]

Only took me 5 minutes to find it :)

[@xeobit2781]

Wow the attention to detail is amazing! I really like this

[@mvadu]

This is been a fun series to binge.. One thing that you may want to consider is to run higher voltage at lower current via the drag chain and stepping it down to your led dri er level in the pcb. Higher current lower voltage may heat up the small guage wires you run through the constrained space.

[@victorldunn9638]

Really like the extended story and detail in instalments - gives a great understanding as to the complexities of going from initial idea, through prototype, into final form - Real Project Engineering. Also shows how a 'big project' can be achieved by breaking the task into smaller stages - with iteration and refinement to problem solve and develop features as the project progresses. A great example of "Divide and Conquer" to reach a working solution. 🙂Thank You

[@kyleniedermeier6651]

I can't wait for the next build log! I love how it's turned out so far!

[@MatrixRay19]

Ooh that last take... I suppose the track idea to replace the wiring has gone through with some developing.

[@StevenBennettMakes]

😬

[@aleksandarlukic7278]

This is incredible work! I'm so excited for your new content

[@Bearsfan131]

Absolutely brilliant! Love seeing your thought process as you make iterations

[@a154james]

Love this series! If you're looking to make some prototypes and potentially get a production run made of those aluminum clips I could help you out with that. I run a small manufacturing company and that part seems right up my alley.

[@TheJacklwilliams]

Great work Steven, great work! I’ve been a “mechanic”, “fixer”, “builder” of many things including soft and hardware, most of my life. I’m not great, but not terrible. I’ve arrived at a point where, I want to design and create. This kind of content, seeing your process and how you iterate = incredible class time for me. THANK YOU!

[@StevenBennettMakes]

Thanks for sharing, Jack, so glad you're finding the videos valuable. It seems we must be in the same boat: "Not great, not terrible, trying to get better" :)

[@TheJacklwilliams]

@@StevenBennettMakes It’s beyond fun. I find it therapeutic in the most unexpected ways. It’s an outright hoot as you discover over time that you understand more and more. I’ve worked in IT for years, clients, servers, etc…. adding the hardware part and digging into it deeper is truly a blast.

[@eliiiiiijah]

It's really exiting following along your project Steven! Thank you for sharing, can't wait for the next part

[@ruisearts]

Everyone subscribed and watching this series is my kind of person.

[@michaeldean4362]

Love the project. Looking forward to the next video!

[@nealkephrey8179]

thanks for your sharing your progress as always really nice to see the progress you made

[@chyrt]

Looks good, nice to have an update after watching all the previous episodes

[@snuffypot11]

Watched the whole series a few weeks ago and was excited to wake up to a new episode! Keep up the great work.

[@thuyavansathiamurthi3592]

Holy cow, this is some really awesome design engineering commentary. Really appreciate the insane attention to detail!!

[@sparqx]

Really exciting to see how far this project has come 👍🏻 and can’t wait for more updates and the final reveal 👌🏻

[@martinm2953]

Just found your channel, absolutely brilliant work and I love the passion you have and the dedication to make things right. Can't wait for the next project.

[@thephrase22]

This series is so nicely filmed, the story so well told! It’s very inspiring to me. Thanks!

[@SaitoGray]

That was awesome. Thanks for the video, i can't wait for the release !

[@Tidges01]

Thanks Steven for these buildlogs. Just discovered it yesterday in my recommended list and i'm blown away by the sheer quality of the vdeos, your ability to explain your thoughts and the build itself. TBF i can't wait for the final video and being able to order everything to build this myself

[@army6669990101]

I got the last video recommended and this whole series is amazing! Cant wait for more

[@somexboi]

I love to see new channels with great ideas and great videos! Keep up the good work, and grow big :)

[@hblcatslowy8353]

I love this design! Thanks so much for open-sourcing it, I'm definitely going to throw one together when I have the time. Also, incredible production quality!

[@tomdoyle813]

This build log is amazing, I Love your work mate, keep it up!

[@edwardfletcher7790]

Work this clean deserves much more attention 👍

[@Fernando-xd4uo]

I just recently discovered your project and I'm ABSOLUTELY enjoying these updates! I literally feel your satisfaction with every little achievement you make as I've started some personal projects before (and kinda finished them) and I'm also studying a product design engineering degree. Keep it up, great job :)

[@louisss645]

Hey Steven, really enjoying this project series!

[@vineetwilson5277]

This is the first video I have watched in your series and I immediately loved it! this is the sort of fun DIY projects that I have been looking for. Will definitely follow this through! all the best.

[@heliscone2569]

This is incredible!! The tease of the supertrack has me intrigued...

[@corynrobinson]

I went back and binged this awesome series. This is a really cool project. I'm familiar with electronics and can help out with power supply design as well as making the PCB much smaller.

[@cavemaneca]

Congratulations on dipping your toes into PCB design. It's a great skill to have, and hopefully this will give you the confidence to be more ambitious!

[@Dangineering]

I love this series so much because I find myself in a similar situation to you. I am generally comfortable with designing hardware, but electronics has been a point of contention for me.

[@moth.monster]

That first PCB looks so quaint, and reminds me of my own first revision basic boards. But it does the job perfectly!

[@WeslomPo]

Hurray! Another video!

[@DanielSimu]

Thanks for this series, I just watched everything up to here! I have yet to make my own PCB for anything, so thanks for the encouragement, that's helpful :). Looking forward to see your finished product!

[@johnkelly7264]

This sort of design, build is just the sort of thing that I was looking for. Thank You. Subbed here!

[@thecatofnineswords]

Thoughts, A clear raised ring and leak light through them for extra tactile goodness. The flickering could be removed or reduced by using a non-round number, or non-multiple of 60Hz. Instead of 1kHz, try 963Hz, or something similarly prime-ish. Really enjoying the build log series and definitely keen for more.

[@StevenBennettMakes]

Ha, your clear ring idea made me laugh out loud. Really fun idea.

[@polyedror]

You are doing a great job. Very inspiring. I wish to be able to du half of what you are doing!

[@jeejiahui1644]

Arggggg!!!! Is a new episode! 🤩🤩🤩

[@strider460]

I've used those capacitive buttons in the past and you can actually get them to work with a thin layer of (non conductive) material between your finger and the sensor area, meaning you can just print the cover with a section 1-2 layers thick and just sense through it. The circuit is also pretty simple, just an off the shelf IC and there's basically no calculation for the size of the conductive pad, so it would be pretty easy to make the capacitive buttons integrated to your main PCB. Awesome project though! Excited for updates.

[@causewhynot4084]

First time here and love the project. As someone who also is also self-taught in pcb design, I see you making a lot of the same mistakes I did, namely missing power planes, far too small trace width, messy routing and a couple others. Whilst your pcb works, there is a tonne of complex rules to follow in order to achieve correct results and these become far more important with more complex pcbs. I would highly highly recommend Phil’s Lab to learn more about pcb design, specifically his design review videos have helped me immensely. Good luck!!!

[@StevenBennettMakes]

Thanks for the recommendation! I will definitely check that out. Hopefully V2 will be a big improvement

[@iCODeRUS]

so far so great, thank you! been waiting for update since last year! :D

[@jbrownson]

That PCB looks great, nice work on the buttons too

[@curywuast1647]

Hey, love your stuff. (Idea for fix down below) We probably don't care that much if it flickers on camera, as long as it isn't visible to the naked eye in the final product I'd be happy. But besides that try syncing your PWM-frequency with your shutter speed and framerate. For example if you're shooting at 60Hz try to let your shutter speed be 1/60th or 1/120th depending on your preference for motion blur. Your lamps PWM should in turn be good (on cam at least) at a multiple of your shutter, like 240 or maybe even 480Hz. Let me know if you already tried this, just tryin to shoot ideas. :D

[@curywuast1647]

Oh, and higher PWM-speeds might decrease the perceived brightness on cam depending on how well light and cam are synced up.

[@StevenBennettMakes]

I'll give this a shot, thanks!

[@btran3224]

I also think this is the best solution for fixing the storobing light issue. SeanHodgins on youtube made a display using spinning LED's and had to change camera settings in order to pick up the illusion on video.

[@curywuast1647]

@@StevenBennettMakes No problem, it's a common problem in cinematogeaphy, especially for product videography in the tech space (monitors can be a nightmare at times). But you have the advantage of being the manufacturer of your own light source, so good luck! :)

[@mjxx]

@@StevenBennettMakes Theoretically 1200hz should be the sweet spot where every popular framerate (24, 30, 48, 50, 60) works flawlessly! Good luck!

[@jjfeeney9769]

This is amazing love this build so much

[@TryHardPajamas]

Absolutely amazing video series. The effort you put in to all of this shows! As an old professor of mine would say, "this glows in the dark" because it is so outstanding. I have always been afraid to get into hardware as software is my strong suit, but this has really lit a flame. I really appreciate the open source nature of this project as well; it really helps everyone learn!

[@bwimtg]

congrats on the progress and your first pcb!

[@StevenBennettMakes]

Thanks, Bin!

[@GiorgioFGilestro]

This is so fun. Thanks for sharing! May I suggest using the horizontal arm itself as one big capacitative trace: one touch of the arm to turn on/off and then slide your finger along it to increase or decrease the light intensity. In this way, you would completely get rid of all the buttons.

[@Personnenenparle]

Also, for a better feel and better control on the position of the rails, you should really add some friction. A felt pad would probably do the job. It would feel way more sturdy

[@Nikitaman]

Love your videos! Can't wait to build a DIYson myself!

[@Fr3ddeh]

Very nice work!

[@MATT890]

So much respect for the time you are taking with not only the project, but the videos as well! For the CNC part I would try Send Cut Send. They have decent pricing and the quality is good.

[@TFlorian]

Thx ! Interesting project and nice produced !

[@jakesmith927]

I watched this whole series today, excited to make my own in the future. Then I realized I don't even have space for a desk lamp. So I'm in the market for a new desk

[@MeHiLupe]

Love this project, i never heard of this lamp and now I can't wait to try it myself. After looking up the original product, they use a barrel connector in the base to allow it to fully rotate (90 degrees so the cable goes horizontally through the base). For the chains, I suggest fixing the first half of the chain to the profile(or just the middle link of it), this way it is forced to fold onto itself and stays clean when the arm is fully retracted

[@Dr.O]

I love your updates, keep going

[@enaudeni]

Wow amazing work you have done here. I feel like making one but I have no place to use it. But the whole process you have been through and continuing through is brilliant. Thanks for sharing!!!

[@mikumikuobseq4826]

After the past few years of making tons of LED projects (for VR DJing. Audio reactive armour) I have been thinking about making my own PCBs for a while. I've seen a few of the programs/websites that pop up over and over but my electronics engineering mindset is still very much in development. Thanks for the adafruit website tip. Great video as usual

[@philip_fletcher]

Realy enjoying this series. Many years ago I briefly worked with a TV cameraman who struggled with fluorescent tube flicker. His theory was to find a non resonant frequency frame rate - IIRC it was akin to the old vcr tracking control.

[@cadea7578]

Absolutely love the look a competent and thoughtful engineering being exposed. Aside from the material advantages that Dyson has I actually prefer the look of this so far

[@LincolnWorld]

Fascinating! I have wanted to dabble in electronics, but it seems overwhelming. This is the first of your videos that I have seen. I just subscribed, and will fallow along. Perhaps your videos will finally be the thing that inspires me to try making my own custom electronics projects. This video is definitely making me want to try.

[@StevenBennettMakes]

Thanks for sharing! Glad I could provide a bit of encouragement. I don't foresee a day when I'm not intimidated by electronics, but progress is progress :)

[@kailuasurfing]

My favorite video I watched this week! I suspect you, me and 5k other people thought the same thing when we saw the Dyson Lightcycle lamp: Elegant tech, I would like one, I don't have 5-600 USD for that (or don't value it at retail price, in spite of the beautiful execution). I have wanted to design something similar, but don't think I have the collection of skills to do so. I am learning a lot from your videos. Keeping my fingers crossed that your project will result in some sort of plans or DIY kit.

[@ZeroX252]

I see a hint towards a rail based power delivery system. Exciting stuff. I like the decision to shift to a custom PCB and house the electronics in the head. Thankfully custom pcb manufacturing is a lot more approachable now and you can even get individually manufactured pcbs for not a lot. Obviously further miniaturization could be done, but not without making it too difficult for most people to build themselves. Thanks for acknowledging the need for tactile feedback. Perhaps integrating some sort of haptics might be good? Probably unnecessary to add the expense though. Love the attention to detail. I like a lot of the comments suggesting a DC barrel jack in the base. I think for reliability and rigidity reasons I would still opt for a bearing of some sort to handle the load, but the barrel jack would be great for handling voltage transit with rotation, and you could pass the wires through the center if the extrusion and through a hole for connecting to the cable chains or rails if they end up working out.

[@el_micha]

I also think it is critical to get this base joint as sturdy as possible. The lamp is like a huge lever on it and when moved or touched even more so! If a quality feel is desired, that joint must be rock solid other than "wiggly-wiggly". Preferably with metal insert and proper bearing. As @ZeroX252 stated, the cable can run inside the bearing still allowing for 360°-ish rotation. I think most ppl wouldn't rotate the lamp 5 times 360° in a row, right?

[@ZeroX252]

@@el_micha If you use a barrel connector you can get full 360 rotation, or if he continues with the slip ring that will also work for full 360 rotation. Just want to take the lever action off the slip ring or dc barrel connector and put it on a proper bearing both so the action is smoother and so it feel more solid like it's one object.

[@ZeroX252]

You'd need to fix the barrel connector on both sides, and just far enough apart that they don't completely bottom out (so they aren't bearing the load, and the bearing itself is)

[@MattButzen]

Such a neat series!

[@stepoutsidesayinghi]

Awesome content! I learned a ton by watching your series.

[@poisonouscarnage2289]

great work. i look forward to making one

[@AJMansfield1]

You can shrink and cost-down the whole "buck converter" bit by replacing it with a linear regulator. Also, try adding some capacitors to the input and output of the LED supply; that can significantly reduce flickering. (For that matter, you could do to add capacitors to a _lot_ of different places on your circuit...)

[@wavemancer]

this is INSANELY cool

[@ryandury]

Hey Steven, new to the channel. This was inspiring and really fun to watch. Thank you :) Subscribed

[@nadavsofer2686]

Super cool, man 😎

[@gojohnson2511]

7:15 there's something very funny about small parts just *teleporting* when you're holding them.

[@jan-of-finland]

Inside the original design, there's just a normal round DC connector placed vertically close to the base, letting the female connector rotate freely around the upwards pointing male jack of the base. The jack head is angled, to keep it sitting firmly inside the base. The female connector is soldered directly to the power transmitting rails, which transmit the power all the way to the lamp electronics (here placed correctly) at the end. It's always interesting to see you progress in these videos, although it's getting way more over-engineered compared to the original. 😅👍

[@StevenBennettMakes]

Yeah this is way better than my slip ring idea, and a few other helpful folks have pointed out the barrel jack solution, I plan to ditch the slip ring in favor of this, much more straight-forward :)

[@udbruddistribucion6347]

Excellent progress. I think I need to start ordering parts soon :D

[@maxasken]

Cnc milling would be a superb solution for the metal cooling bracket. As is the design would work ofcourse. But a tip for lower cost is to design it with fastening/fixtureing in mind. also easy indexing/alignment if you would like to machine both sides. And one thing i almost forgot! To tight tolerance's, can with bad luck get expensive to😊 great work and great videos. I just want to hear every little detail!😍

[@MagicManFoli]

Another trick to get capacitive buttons into existing designs is to use large copper tape pads behind a thinned out section of the print. I was able to get up to 2cm range with pads roughly 4x4cm in size and a dedicated capacitive trigger board. This would make assembly both cheaper and easier, but be aware that they can misfire at high sensitivities from too much electrical noise.

[@Dunkeyhote]

Yoooo I’ve been waiting for this one ❤

[@ChrisHalden007]

Great video. Thanks