The foxbody 351W is hurt

[@arturozarate1752]

Cornwell 11mm - 1/4" drive universal impact socket on the end of a good cordless 1/4" drive ratchet will make quick work of header bolts. The Cornwell socket is the only one that has lasted 25 years. I tried them all(the big 4 - MAC, MATCO, SNAP-ON, and Cornwell). Had to share. Watching you made my hands hurt.

[@fordtechsteve]

@arturozarate1752 yeah i forgot to bring my electric ratchet home that day.

[@arturozarate1752]

@@fordtechsteve man the struggle of bringing work home.

[@Hjfvvdst]

Yep, time to completely go through that engine.

[@vrm86gt]

you can just get link bar roller lifters to use on a non roller block.

[@fordtechsteve]

Yeah i saw them the other day from CJ pony parts i think. Little pricy but it would get the car running again

[@whippleweekly513]

I like this idea

[@GaryH-pw9cm]

I have a non roller block and just use link bar roller lifters. Been running for 6 years no problem.

[@fordtechsteve]

@GaryH-pw9cm what lifters did you end up getting?

[@whippleweekly513]

@@fordtechsteve we haven’t gotten anything yet funds are in bad shape atm

[@trentdawg2832]

That sux….best of luck to ya man!!!…..my son was having ford issues today when he dicided to take his ‘67 mustang 289 car out into december (what i call holiday hell) traffic and i think he flooded the damn thing when he called talking about it wont start…..he had to learn how to heel and toe them pedals to get that thing to clear….i made it clear to him that if i had to drive out to him and show him how to start it that im not gonna be too thilled….needless to say he made it home 30 minutes later😂😂😂😂……we have a roller 302 in the garage we are building so i keep telling him to baby that old 289 just a little bit longer…..it will be well worth it come spring……myself im a LS guy so i dont have those issues…i tried to tell him to get a gm but he was dead set on that damn mustang

[@fordtechsteve]

@trentdawg2832 that will be a cool upgrade for that. We had a 67 with a 289 but the car was just to rusted out for what we wanted to do with it.

[@trentdawg2832]

@ yeah ours has the typical floor pan spots nothing major though….previous owner did a stop sign repair with it …years ago , but i told my son when i paint it that new front pans are goin in !!!! I wanna paint it NOW but my son likes the paint and scratches/dings on it so i guess we will wait a couple more years🤷🏼‍♂️🤷🏼‍♂️🤷🏼‍♂️

[@Hjfvvdst]

With timing like that i would be checking piston lands, cylender finish, bearings, ect. It could have done a lot of damage.

[@fordtechsteve]

@Hjfvvdst yeah i think once spring comes around we will be doing a little more teardown. Owner of the car needs to make a little money for parts. Lol

[@Hjfvvdst]

@fordtechsteve I've been at this spot before. Everything is broke, and so am I.🙂

[@fordtechsteve]

@Hjfvvdst yeah you can have a racecar or money. Not both. Haha

[@krr711]

That engine had to be making noise to eat 5/16” off of a lifter. Good luck!

[@fordtechsteve]

@@krr711 it was. We started to really hear it about 5 miles away from the house.

[@jesseduke694]

Lol, u dont have to wonder about that cam if that lifter looks like that!

[@fordtechsteve]

Yeah she done. Haha

[@Enigma-Sapiens]

Why not just convert a regular block to a roller block?

[@fordtechsteve]

@Enigma-Sapiens that is our current plan. The past research I had done made it sound like our block was to old to modify but some ingo was shared in the comments proving we can convert it. Once we have the funds we will be pulling the engine and getting it cleaned back up and ready to go

[@arturozarate1752]

Is that a 3/4" reach spark plug? All the aftermarket cylinder heads that I've installed in 25 years have used flat gasket sealing plugs. Cracks me up that they all recommend an Autolite 3492 or 3942. If that hear does indeed use taper seat 3/4" reach plugs, try an NGK TR6.

[@brettalder3129]

Where did you get the coolant over flow jug from?

[@fordtechsteve]

@@brettalder3129 its actually just a stock one that we picked up from lmr. My dad actually built the little bracket to hold it up.

[@brettalder3129]

@ thanks

[@whippleweekly513]

Thank god it’s winter lol

[@arturozarate1752]

HEY! Route those wires better and use some kind of seperators. Techflex and double walled heat shrink works well.What a mess. They're aluminum....they'll weld up bud.

[@fordtechsteve]

We will be doing that once its back up and running. I would kimda like to get different wires that have 45 degree bends on the plug end. One of the boots is resting on one of the primaries.

[@arturozarate1752]

@@fordtechsteve 😬 yeah, they don't like that. For years I've battled with plug wires. Always trying to find a cleaner way. Something really presentable ya'know? I tried running the wires in the most direct route to the plug. This kept them as short as possible(resistance/foot), but that ran them over the valve covers and I had a new set of Canton cast aluminum polished covers. At the time they were the sweetest looking out. So I finally ended with a 50ft spool of MSD 8.5 wire, 90's at the cap, 135's at the plug, wrapped in black Tecchflex w/shrink, and some aluminum separators that mounted to long 1/4" allen cap screws similar to the OEM. Personally that's the cleanest way. A distant 2nd would be those airplane wing things that cover the wires along the valve cover rail. Then that damn coil wire all the way over there....I changed mine like the SN95s. Then I stuffed a 32v 4.6 in there with COP. Done.

[@arturozarate1752]

@@fordtechsteve the Chevys got it right with running them under the headers.

[@fordtechsteve]

@arturozarate1752 its weird the only one we have the issue with is the wire on cylinder #4

[@arturozarate1752]

@fordtechsteve with shorty headers, yeah that primary has know where to go.

[@arturozarate1752]

Those Commetics are $100 a pop and reusable. No reason to use a flat tappet cam....no reason! For what you're going to pay for a roller block....do some reading on roller conversions.....damn. Small base circle, standard hydraulic roller lifters, spider, dog bones, 1/4" studs. I'm sending you a bill.

[@fordtechsteve]

@arturozarate1752 so from what ive seen our block is to old to convert it to run the spider and dog bone so looks like we will be going the t bar style.

[@arturozarate1752]

@@fordtechsteve wait....how old, and what are you seeing that says you can't use the dog bones and spider? I ran a '70 Mexican block with dog bones, spider, Ford Racing OEM style lifters, and a small base circle cam.

[@arturozarate1752]

@@fordtechsteve I think it's a #7 drill bit, 1/4 - 24 tap, qty 2 : 1/4-24×3/4" studs, 2 nylock nuts. The cam to crank spacing is the same....so the lifter valley is the same width so it'll use the same 302 spider. A little layout fluid and a center punch.....mock up the spider, punch, drill(careful not to go all the way through), tap(use bottoming tap or grind down the beginning taper of the tap once it starts), stud, and boom....

[@jsimmonstx]

You can get a 408 long block from Blueprint Engines.

[@fordtechsteve]

I'd be all for that but i have a feeling that ends up being a little expensive. Lol

[@arturozarate1752]

​@@fordtechstevebuild it and they will come.

[@fordtechsteve]

Haha so true.

[@deanstevenson6527]

🥝✔️