The Greatest Miniature Painting CHEAT!

There's lots of ways to make your models look good on the tabletop - but this is the way I find the fastest and easiest.
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[@MrHalfish]

So real talk; as a new painter I used to spend hours on treads of tanks to get them perfect then just slapped mud on them. Recently I realized that if I slapchop the undercoat I can literally just douse them in nuln oil and argrax mixed and they look incredible. I feel like in this hobby folks love to overthink the end product instead of just leveraging the tools available. Great video!

[@PaidViewer536]

What's your recipe/ratio?

[@anibar6780]

The same happened to me with the treads of tanks: is the part of the tank more diffcult to paint. But I realized that applying dirt effects I don't have to waste lot of time with the treads.

[@NMannillo]

With Vince and Ninjon getting Pro Acryl paint sets of colors they mixed up, uncle Adam should 100% get to make a “cheating” set of dirty washes and texture paints. I wouldn’t even care if it just repackaged Baking Soda and glue with your name on it. Keep up the great content for us middling painters.

[@nebulon82]

Biggest tip - if you're using acrylic washes/contrast, thin them out with some water or medium. Helps to avoid that tea stain effect on bigger surfaces. You can always add a second layer if you think you need it.

[@GrugTheJust]

I honestly thin mine with acrylic floor polish it's an amazingly cheap thinning medium. I'll warn it turns everything a more satin than gloss finish, but I find it easier to get the matte or gloss after in final details.

[@artistpoet5253]

@@GrugTheJust try 'wet water' kzbin.info/www/bejne/bpuQoZ9oqtSKhck I get great control with my washes, minimal tide marks and my panel lining is better than using the expensive inks. You can mist it over the model or thin directly.

[@deltabairsoft]

You can also thin them with white spirit. Then they run better into crevices.

[@aaronbrogan1630]

I add a little medium - water has a surface tension that I have found to behave a little funny, depending on the amount of wash I use. As always, experiment a bit and find what works best for ya!

[@joemac8694]

Contrast medium or something else? Do you think adding a little to the pot would work? I’ve noticed contrast tends to be pretty finicky to get an even coat.

[@Nightmare-cr3iw]

I like to call this the "fix it in post" technique and it is a GODSEND for people like me who don't have an airbrush but still have to paint a large vehicle like a Land Raider or the new Squat Land Fortress with all those flat panels. My wife thought that my Fortress looked really bad at first and asked me what i did to "fix" it once i was done. My answer was simply "Nuln Oil and Battlemire"

[@tbrizius]

This is exactly how I’ve been painting my new DCOK army. Using mostly speed paints, I limit time per model to 10-15 mins. I mean, with 300+ minis on the table, I gotta get through this. And they look awesome

[@davidmills6203]

are there many details or different colours in you DKoK models? im trying to work through GSC but im averaging about 2 hours for 6 bodies. 3 different colours, dry brush, wash, then a few details

[@Fughley]

Exactly the same technique I have been using for my KT of the DKOK, bumped it up to 20 figures with some extra resin bitz. Makes all the difference with the oil wash- brings it all together.

[@MrTomlette]

Yep. I've also realized that sometimes, "literalistic" painting is not even what I want out of a mini. I recently painted the Egyptian gods for Ankh, a Risk-like game, and because they're the leaders of a faction, I didn't want to diffuse the main color of the faction so much that the god was not immediately readable across the table as the leader of the purple faction (or red, or whatever). So I settled on painting them with airbrush, giving them only splashes of other colors, trying to keep the main tone similar to their base plastic color. It took me very little time, considering how detailed and big the minis are, and they look better than a regular painting job where every detail is painted as its intended color (but, not as good as what a pro painter could do, obviously).

[@historygems1190]

I love your realistic views for the average gamer/painter . Keep up the great work 👍🏻

[@praeshock682]

Agreed. While I watch lots of hobby KZbinrs, Adam is the one who makes me feel most like I can actually produce some decent looking minis, by just being a normal guy using normal tools without some insane, 300 hour edge highlighting job on every mini.

[@timothyyoung2962]

That Nurgle marine looks cool, that technique worked really well. It would look good on some wasteland power armor as well... like something for Fallout. Since I play a lot of post apocalyptic games dirty is my main method. Been fulling around with some Blanchitsu-like schemes a swell, so dirty is DEFINITELY the way to go.

[@trevorharvey6928]

I'm not a fan of the dirty look personally but you can do a heck of a lot with a wash between the base coat and highlighting stage. Nothing extreme just a light wash then back to the basecoat/layering. As you say - it hides a lot of the transitions between areas and adds a lot of depth quickly.

[@YanniCooper]

There's no such thing as cheating at painting your minis. Airbrush? Not cheating. Washes? Not cheating. Slap Chop? Not cheating. Paying someone to paint you minis for you? Not cheating.

[@kitten2799]

i agree, but i'd not call paying for a commision the same as painting. Mostly because i'd feel incredibly shity saying minis made by Seige Studios using my money were actualy my work.

[@David-ns4ym]

Slap chop is my favorite style for getting minis churned out for wargaming.

[@germanvisitor2]

Not making your own colours and brushes is pretty much cheating.

[@rallyfeind]

​@@germanvisitor2 I have joked that someone needs to do a gaming channel where they only do the cave painting level bushcraft style painting. If they wanted to go full tilt then maybe having them carving minis out of antler bone and use like a caveman tech rotary tool. Then at the results always show a normal mini painted for display. Just complete rip on the dig a pool with a stick channels.

[@angrychainaxe2803]

This is great advice. I am not artistic at all but people people usually compliment my armies when I play at the local store. Painting dirty definitely hides a lot of my mistakes.

[@doublepirate7466]

I'm all about oils.. my favorite thing at the moment is army painter speed paints and then giving the bright colors a was made out of artists oil and mineral spirits/turpentine. It worked like a charmy for the into the dark terrain

[@PatGilliland]

Block paint and dip, matte varnish and done. Won't win awards but does get armies on the table.

[@Daktangle]

Thinking that using washes is "cheating" sounds like it comes from similar minded people to those that thing using references is "cheating". Use both, they really help. As for my painting, I do base colours -> wash -> drybrush my highlights. Drybrushing fuzzes the edges and adds a bit of incidental wear and tear. Plus it's waaaaay quicky that fiddly edge highlighting.

[@stormycatmink]

One life lesson I had to learn as an art-critter, and the one thing other people who do art things really need to grasp as well, is 'True Painters' cheat every chance they get. The first image projector was artists trying to cheat and project a scene or object on a wall back in the 1200s or whatever. Heck, there's even evidence people were doing it back in ancient egypt and mayan civilizations. Most every professional 2D artist uses tools like photoshop and photos or 3D models under their art and trace over it. If you're not cheating, you're not a professional. The only people who don't are generally those who are painting or arting just for the sake of doing the art. Kind of like doodling; it's relaxing, calming, and helps them enjoy life a bit. You paint just to paint, or sing just to sing. But it's painfully slow and the point is actually to NOT finish. Starting over without completing something isn't only acceptable, it's the norm. It's becoming more publicly acceptable for artists to share this in the more transparent medium of KZbin and the modern internet than it used to be. It was socially considered shameful for artists before, and they'd rarely admit to it. But it's always been there, and it was how you differentiated between someone who made money and someone who didn't. So, not cheating isn't wrong, but it's not going to get you results any time soon. You want to get things done, maybe even make money? You better be tracing, copying, and cheating every chance you get.

[@michaelmiguelsanchez]

Makes me think of the Army Painter ‘Dip Method’ of shading.

[@ratamahata4]

Your videos are so motivating! Whenever I meet my 'painter block' and just scroll through YT and watch yet anaother hobby video...suddenly I come across one of Your videos and find some spirit and will to paint again. Thank You.

[@kevinfisher4768]

It’s so funny, every damn time I finish the painting stage. I on occasion pause, and think “well now I am gonna muck it up with wash”. I never don’t wash. Because I know how much better it will look once I do! Keep these coming uncle atom! Looking forward to my favorite Friday stream in a couple hours. Thanks for making fridays awesome!

[@adventuresinwax2277]

Very sound advice, I've been experimenting with this technique for the last year with great success. It's sped up my painting and I love the finish.

[@kerr_b]

Uncle Atom: "He certaintly doesn't look like he's Nurgle-y." Terminator: "Am I not Nurgle-y enough for the Nurgle club?"

[@oskar6661]

Same concept as using stuff like AP's dip. I tell people a lot, over my 30 years of painting minis...I haven't necessarily gotten much better, but I've learned to cheat much more efficiently.

[@Bog_Dog]

Ye I love painting my chaos marines for this reason. Latest guy I posted on insta is one of my most popualr posts, and he took very little time! base colours, little choice highlights, wash of grime and some technical paints for blood dirt and vertigris. Perfect

[@tabletop-mini-showcase]

Agrax Earthshade is a magic wash in my opinion. You want amazing-looking leather? Mounfang Brown a few layers of Agrax Earthshade with some scratchy lines painted in between layers and boom you got amazing leather, you want to shade blood angels? guess what, Agrax Earthshade makes a fantastic shade for reds. You want a solid starting point for NMM gold? slap some Agrax Earthshade over a pale yellow and you have a great starting point to work from. honestly, it's one of my most used items and I don't care if anyone thinks it's cheating using washes...it's art, there are no rules. p.s that Nurgle terminator looks sweet as funk :)

[@SquizmWizzerd]

0:35 "...war is mainly fought outside and that's where most of the dirt is kept." my brainworms imagined this to mean that we are purposely storing the dirt outside lol

[@buzzedaldrin7316]

The reductive enamel washes look better if you are willing to spend a little more time per model by laying down some initial highlights/shading with zenithal sprays or drybrushing. You can also some achieve some okay looking colour modulation/rendering by stippling on some tonal variations of your base colours which you can blend/tie into the model by leaving a thin residue of the enamel or oil wash.

[@tabletopminions]

Honestly, I tried an experiment once: I painted one Space Marine with block colors and one with some shading and highlights and such, and then I did the enamel wash to each. I could BARELY tell the difference to them afterwards, so I didn’t see the point in spending the extra time. However, your mileage may vary. Thanks for watching!

[@buzzedaldrin7316]

@@tabletopminions Fair call mate and to be fair, using the wash over a flat base coat already looks pretty good and gives you a lot of bang for your buck. I found that the highlighting and shading does make some difference in some cases but (as I should of mentioned before) you need to apply them a bit darker and lighter than what would normally look okay before the wash is applied so when the wash filters them and ties them together they still stand out.

[@markchristiansen4827]

Saw the title and decided it was either a washes or the title was wrong. Not disappointed.

[@WarbossWAAAGHHHH]

Love the 100k shirt lol great choice FOR THE KINGDOM!

[@Helspar06]

War never changes, only the weapons for waging it does, and when they do we call it progress.

[@grendelb3298]

Love this advice. I've been thinking of trying the light tone "dip" from Army Painter to save time. It may help with Astra Militarium too.

[@_Zer0Gr4vity_]

I started doing something similar with my plague marines, that have been sittin in my pile of procrastination for more than a year. Straken green for the armor, paint in the metallic and bronze details, than dump a hefty amount of agrax earthshade on all. No need to really tidy up, cause it's a plague marine. I can spend the extra time on painting the details.

[@huwtindall7096]

Rubbing or wicking wash off is an awesome tip. First saw it from Fletcher on Tabletop Tactics. You mostly want the wash in the crevices, not the high points. So no need to let it dry and go back over the high points. Wipe it off when it's still wet!

[@wing459]

Sounds a bit like my current plan for the Necromunda Ash Wastes box, a little bit new to me but the plan is that after a quick airbrush and blocking in the details they will simply get the oil wash treatmeant (after varnish of course) to dirty them up and add some depth. Hopefully it goes well for the grimy aesthetic Necromunda brings to mind.

[@Uberdemon0666]

A hobby motto of mine is: Washes put in the work for you!

[@haxan6663]

I have some Ultimate Weathering Wash and the process that you have described is what they suggest i.e apply liberally, let it dry for 30 mis and then dab some of it off. I haven't tried this with Agrax but I will try it now!

[@tabletopminions]

Agrax Earthshade and the other acrylic washes won’t “dab off” if you let them dry for 30 minutes. Acrylics dry FAST so you’d have to try to clean things up very quickly. The Nurgle Teriminator in the example was covered in an enamel wash, which will allow you more time to dab it off later. Oil washes will give you even more time. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!

[@EdgarVerona]

I haven't tried it yet, but this sounds somewhat similar to what that "dip" that army painter makes does - which is cool, as I don't feel like buying a big bucket of dip 😂

[@evileyeball]

My goal for 2023 is to finish off some of my yet unfinished kill teams and then to actually get minimum one game in with each of the teams I have finished. This kind of thing is very helpful to me. Especially since part of that will involve me finishing painting my set of terrain.

[@evileyeball]

So far I should have my Pathfinders team done by end of january... I just have to go today after work and get a new pot of "the fang" for the tau skin colour on their feet and then apply the basing materials and decals to them. That would leave just Tyranids and Legionaries unpainted.

[@jeremiahalonzo]

Thanks for the content! Just bought RiH and the expansion, & we're having a co-op campaign next week!

[@edwardclay7551]

Oh cool! Which miniatures are you using and which Cabals did you all pick?

[@hoshi314]

100% agreed, tried this with not a mini but a Kotobukiya plamo, boy it looked far better than i'd imagined

[@TheEr910]

For troops, I paint the base colors. Then I use washes. Finally, I highlight with the same base colors.

[@liamholt5623]

You would be shocked to see what kind of dirt and dust a proper indoors firefight kicks up

[@WhiskeyjackZA]

I only paint "grunge" these days and / or slap dash or whatever Rob calls another quick painting technique. Mostly also just contrast and speed paints. Learned in this process to use bigger brushes and aim just to cover everything in those base colours, don't worry about going over "lines". The contrasts / speed paints will blend (especially if use colours close to one another) and the wash later on will take care of what you missed. I still like dry brushing as well on some parts... It is amazing how quickly you can get stuff on the table with this aproach. Nobody has ever had anything bad to say about any paint job and instead people are amazed how quickly your armies hit the table ("where do you get the time?") Lol, people worry waay to much about painting and waste a lot of time watching videos from pro-painters that paint for commision and prizes. (BTW - with these techniques you can even win best painted stuff or be in the running, I have frequently just lost out to a guy that really put in a lot of time). My pet hate is the guy that always talk about painting techniques and how he is going to paint his stuff, but you never see him with painted armies or often not even half painted armies...

[@donttreadonmemes]

"War is mainly fought outside, and that is where most of the dirt is kept" truer words have never been spoken.

[@aroodrao726]

You have a voice and cadence that makes me instantly trust you. Thanks for the great videos

[@DismemberTheAlamo]

Theres a reason we joke and call it skill in a bottle. My technique for "chaff" had been the same for years. Block in colors, wash the whole thing, then bring back some highlights. It really speeds up the process, id rather take extended time on characters. For me, its about breaking up larger chunks so it doesnt look like 40 models, but 5 sets of 8.... or 8 sets of 5.

[@2WARDEN2]

That was an impossibly concise summary of Turnip28mm 😂

[@roganzar]

“I don’t know, it’s science.” The modern version of “I did it with magic.”

[@gillian_seed8358]

Glad I chose Chaos Space Marines Black Legion as my first full on army, since they are 10,000 years battle-weary, the paint jobs are fairly easy so far

[@bionicgeekgrrl]

If you want some of the enamel wash effects with less mess, tamiya panel liner is great stuff.

[@BeastnBrushes]

That 100k t-shirt got me thinking you might make a Conquest video soon

[@tabletopminions]

It’s a really cool shirt, but I’m not really into rank & flank style games, unfortunately. What I want them to do is to release a true skirmish game (not First Blood) because their models are really starting to get good. Thanks for watching!

[@felixlinker]

"Most of the dirt is kept outside" - You heard it here first, folks!

[@edwardclay7551]

Honestly I like this advice a lot. I tend to paint more pristine miniatures so experimenting with making some dirtier or battle weary armour will be a nice change of pace. So ty uncle Atom for this video!

[@Zanname]

Try looking up grimdark compendium. Really neat stuff. Also MIG and or ammo. Taking things from historicals and scale models is great.

[@khadorstrong]

That's an excellent shirt. Conquest is really doing some fun stuff!

[@darklingeraeld-ridge7946]

So true, and so well presented. Though really good grunging is an art in itself.

[@nightfire734]

Just curious, what was the oil wash on that Deathguard Terminator?

[@tabletopminions]

It wasn’t oil, it was enamel wash - Streaking Grime from Ammo by MiG. I had to get it online. Thanks for watching!

[@nightfire734]

@@tabletopminions Thank you Uncle Adam.

[@exmrn22]

I think someone already pointed this out - “ Cheating” in terms of the art world where mixing, tools, and fabrication/intuitive techniques are the mainstay to its versatility, there is no “Cheating” - it’s just techniques and tool use. I imagine it Michaelangelo and Raphael were alive today, they would have went ham using photoshop and other graphic tools to render probably god tier like works for our amazement. Point is what are you really doing with this hobby - are you a war gamer wanting to put a nice table top army that looks great to play or are you in it to be the next Leonardo De Vinci of miniature character painting? Here’s my take on it - 10 artists looking at the same model each can buy and put together can only paint that mode so many many ways before it looks the same. Just like a bunch of Space Marines, you will see 20 of them have that same upper reflection of light on top of their jet packs to the point, it will end looking copied. Display art and table top game painting are two different worlds and each has their own calling and ways to participate. If you are enjoying yourself and liking your part in it, then that is all that matters. Try not to get into the whole, looking at more established art painters because it’s not really about if you can become some painting guru and more about whether you are enjoying your war gaming and hobby. We get caught up in the “Who is better than who?!” When it’s kind for the gaming experience and whether you like your army being on the table.

[@maxxon99]

I love painting Nurgle models and the like. Any mistakes I make I can just cover with grime and rust…

[@johnrohde5510]

Wargamers want to see detail with a crispness they wouldn't see at the distance a human figure would be to look that small. It's the double scaled thing that Napoleonic players have, where they want to play Borodino but also see to battalion formations. They want a cinematic effect, where there are close-ups and panoramic longshots but they want both at the same time. Otherwise, thanks for another interesting and well presented video.

[@ericphilippa]

Yes! That enamel wash is magic. I really don't like the clean army look and as a bonus this is easier! BAM two birds one stone.

[@skree272]

I did this with my team yankee soviets, will do it again, looked good and no need to highlight, though only was able to use agrax

[@calebdreams]

Thanks, Uncle Atom!

[@000NULL]

I zenithal with Tamiya red brown and top with Tamiya buff, drybrush white, this allows better skin and flesh tone control. Basically the opposite of the heavy brown wash that was in the video, but similar results.

[@vincentwiddershoven2122]

Thank you Uncle Adam! 😁

[@ancapride]

The greatest "cheat" I've found is just to play Orks. If the paint job sucks or is splotchy you can just pass it off as intentional.

[@markgnepper5636]

Great stuff friend 👏 👍

[@MacKayVer40k]

pro tip: most dirt is kept OUTSIDE! hahah got a chuckle outta that. hahah

[@effindave6909]

I've got about 4k point of Death Guard, I love everything about the faction. I can't think of a single model I've painted that wasn't finished with a coat of agrax earthshade and some dabs of nurgles rot. I'm actually scared to start my next project which will involve a bunch of "clean" models.

[@pleasw]

I found this out when I was painting Hundred Kingdoms knights! Coincidence, I think not!!

[@fedeambrosi]

Looking forward for an Uncle Tom miniature in the iconic pachow pose

[@peace2126]

I am embarrassed to ask this question.....but here goes ..... Can I use my airbrushes for model & miniature painting with a full-size, 5HP, 80 gallon air-compressor? I know how wild this sounds, but its the only compressor in my garage & my Father used it years ago to paint cars. Is there some kind of accessory-adapter that I could attach in order to use lower PSI & use my airbrushes? Your reply is greatly appreciated. Jaime

[@Nosferatuklown]

I have no clue what the difference between oil washing and enamel washes like streaking Grime is. Besides the obvious "one is with oil paints and one is with enamels"

[@userb3nje909]

Enamel takes longer to dry, so its easier to work with.

[@TheMrFishnDucks]

Very helpful video. Keep up the good work.

[@SgtDeath1942]

How would you do this for a more clean scheme like say white and black Tau? Is it washing still with that enamel but going much harder on the clean up or is there a completely separate technique you need to use for that kind of a look?

[@iamphL]

Nice video! I love streaking grime as well! I am very interested in your painting session of the turnip minis. Where do i find it? :)

[@kevinfisher4768]

He worked on them while he was on twitch for a few weeks. Twitch keeps the backlogs, so if you log in there (may require a follow, not sure) you can watch the process. They were fun streams. I love he condensed KZbin stuff but I feel I learn even more watching the streams. Good viewer inquiries etc. and just fun entertaining stream.

[@JachymorDota]

It's all about using the details of the model to your advantage. Also, BLANCHITSUUUUUU!

[@ryanhatzenbeller4327]

My favorite thing to do too, multiple passes of wash and dry brushing, makes it look like you built all those layers up but way faster

[@NightfireGamingYT]

I love seeing the easy to replicate painting techniques

[@1971mav]

There is Army Painter quick shade you can use.

[@keatonhughes7269]

'and that's where the dirt is kept'

[@joninorth3585]

I have tried to not to pay to much of attention to mistakes and after I have finished the model, I paint or make battle damage over the mistakes. Remember there is no mistakes, only happy little battle damage =)

[@brianhall4182]

Most of the dirt is kept outside? Says you. I've got a jar of dirt. And a jar of sand. And rocks. And leaf bits. For basing.

[@SomeDudeOnYouTube]

Biggest painting cheat I know: pay someone else to do it XD Also very nice Fallout intro.

[@Outlawdave71]

Great stuff, wonderful advice.

[@axlefoley6330]

I have never used a glaze, ever. I have seen an effect that can be done with a glaze that I haven't done better without and I am a very poor painter. Then again that's just my opinion if you get great results with them awesome, but for me they are pointless.

[@anotharoundboi]

Wow! maybe i should have done this with my Nurgle demons?

[@reluxor]

Fantastic, but I did not get the most important: the wash, is it like citadel wash? And how do you remove it? Just by not waiting more than 5 minute and working on it or did you use a spirit? Thanks!

[@thoughtengine]

************* Jan 26, 2021 Totally the opposite of the reason my brother and I ran Tamiya 1/35 scale tank models with the motors through puddles in the 1970s, we intended to get the dirt and mud ON them, not OFF them! thoughtengine Jan 27, 2021 Yeah, these things are going onto a museum floor, not a diorama...:D Discussion about a picture in my Deviantart gallery.

[@seankavanagh3742]

Wash has been my painting life for 10 years I live by this credo. Wash hides my shame and lack of skill 😂😂😂

[@LordTechnopants]

I paused the video to look at our back garden. U.Atom is indeed right. Most of the dirt IS kept outside. I'm not even looking at my better half's boots. No they don't exist.....

[@carl79black]

So like agrax then clean it off with mineral spirits then?

[@akumaking1]

Could you upload these instructions as a PDF file somewhere?

[@spacetoy4584]

its cool, not tried enamels as yet but do essentially the same thing with oils.

[@MrDemonicTom]

Love the t-shirt, where did you get it?

[@tabletopminions]

I got it at a small gaming convention called Dragon Fall last October. Thanks for watching!

[@0newingedcrow]

I saw CHEAT and was hoping the one from homestarrunner would make an appearance...

[@jarcuadanantus28]

My problem is that I want my army (Necrons in this case) to look immaculately maintained. But adding dirt and grime makes them look as ancient as they are. I don’t want weary rusty faltering machines and soldiers I want my troops operating at their best. Which now means copious amounts of molded in battle damage repair and minimization.

[@ScytheNoire]

The Great Miniature Painting Cheat: Give models and stacks of cash to a good painter.

[@WhoThaCazer]

i think you can even use pretty bright colours to dirty up models if you want that your army is fighting on world where is alot pollution and rain has turned color you want and it stains.

[@scottamelville]

I have been student of Agrax for the past two years or so. overly bright colors then tone them down with Agrax: Liquid Talent.

[@jabberwok777]

I'm not the first to say it, but let me keep it going. You should come out with a range of dirtifying products. I would absolutely buy a bottle of Uncle Atom's Turnip Mud.

[@rossgruenberg9700]

👏🏼 wood stain for dip wash.

[@zakobius3857]

This is an essential video for many