The GRR-RIPPER Review by Marc Spagnuolo, The Wood Whisperer!

[@HWCism]

Good explanation, thanks

[@mikeconroy2651]

What model saw is that? I'll have to study how it retains the dust so well. That's the dirtiest cut of them all and I didn't see anything. ( at 7:35). It's almost as if they have stopped the fan effect of the blade. Even with the best of dust collection, that's pretty remarkable. I'm still trying to make my sawstop PCS collect as good as I had my old Delta CS rigged to do. The Struuuggle is real!

[@Microjig]

This is an older video from Marc, but that is a Powermatic, either a 66 or a 2000

[@mikeconroy2651]

@@Microjig I'm going to have to look at the insides of those model numbers. That's either magic, luck or something in the design.

[@Microjig]

@@mikeconroy2651 I have been a pro woodworker for 40 years. If you take the time to seal the gaps between the cabinet of your saw and the top, you can get some impressive results with a good dust collector.

[@lesheinen6116]

I bought one of these years ago when they first came out. After using it one time, it became a $60 doorstop. I found it very tedious and time consuming to adjust. This jig is no different than the 3 other push-sticks you demonstrated when cutting long stock. The big downside to this jig is having to remove both the blade guard and the riving knife in order to use it. Fingers and hands are in peril and the possibility of a kickback is dramatically increased without the safety guards in place. Your push-shoe is the best of the 4 push-blocks presented by far. I sure do miss my $60!!

[@Microjig]

Sorry to hear you feel this way. Had you contacted us back then, you could have had your $60 back. I will say that you are in the minority though. 80% of buyers give the GRR-RIPPER 4 or 5 star ratings, and as a 40 year professional woodworker myself, I wont work in my shop without them.

[@lesheinen6116]

@@MicrojigI just can't support a jig that requires the removal of the essential safety features of a table saw. Perhaps the 80% of buyers don't regard safety as much as I do. In the end each woodworker must operate within their own comfort zone.

[@Microjig]

@@lesheinen6116 we would never tell you to not use any safety feature that you want to use. We will point out that any rip under about 1" wide does require the removal of the blade guard because it will not physically fit between the blade and fence. You also can't use the blade guard when making non-through cuts such as shoulder cuts and grooves. And any cut wider than about 4" can be made with the GRR-RIPPER and blade guard. Finally, I use the GRR-RIPPER on my router table nearly as often as on the saw, not to mention the bandsaw and jointer.

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

@@Microjig Really? Are you serious? A woodworker that does not know that you use an auxiliary fence (lower than the guard) when ripping thin strips? I find it hard to believe you can be so ignorant of table-saw usage. Non through cuts- only prevents crown guards mounted on the riving knife. Side mounted or overhead mounted guards are fine.

[@Microjig]

Email me at [e-mail] and I will happily buy back your GRR-RIPPER. I would ask the opportunity to talk with you and explain the physics of the cutting/kickback. I have been a professional woodworker for nearly 40 years so I have figured a few things out along the way.

[@uhadonejob]

Pretty ridiculous comparison of push sticks where you use one hand and then go to use the Grr-riper and you use the other hand to steady the work. Clearly this thing has its uses but to try and one hand the other methods to discredit them is dishonest.

[@Microjig]

Bear in mind that this video was produced by Marc Spagnolo, so we did not have control over the content. You may disagree with his method (I use a GRR-RIPPER in each hand at the saw most of the time) but you cannot disagree with our results over the 22 years we have been saving fingers. We have sold hundreds of thousands of GRR-RIPPERs and our customer ratings are consistently 4-5 stars. They work.

[@edmc755]

HOW ABOUT GUYS FROM CANADA < WHATS THE DEAL FOR US??????

[@Microjig]

Ed, you CAN buy the deal through our website, but you will need to pay shipping, and that will not save you any money, Sorry. We do make most of these special deals available to our international retailers, so you may want to ask your local store if they are participating. If they are, you'll get the deal, if not, ask them why not!

[@jusfine]

The green grippy stuff eventually starts to be a bit slippy from fine sawdust. Give it a wipe w isopropyl alcohol, good as new!

[@Microjig]

@@jusfine That is what we recommend!

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

This is NOT a safety item. To use it you need to remove the blade guard- your primary safety device on the table saw. You should NOT use it- a hand held piece of plastic would never pass a risk assessment.

[@Microjig]

In point of fact, there are several conditions under which OSHA recognizes that the blade guard cannot be used, and the GRR-RIPPER meets all of their guidelines in those situations.

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

@@Microjig Name one, and I will tell you how a blade guard CAN be used.

[@Microjig]

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop making groove cuts/dado cuts, shoulder cuts, rips of less than 1" wide. Shall I go on?

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

@@Microjig You can if you wish. Non through cuts , dados, etc - prevents use of riving knife crown guard, but side and top mounted guards work just fine. I do this often. Narrow rips - you use an auxiliary (low) fence. Standard practice. I will add - use of sled. This should have its own fence fitted. Mine does. Want to try more?