The History of the Iconic Cloche Hat: Making 1920s Fashion

The cloche is one of the most distinct fashions of the 1920s, both in history and in modern media representations. Though it wasn't the only era when close fitted hats were all the rage, it has come to be an immediate reference to the era of the Flapper. But what is the true history of this iconic accessory? When did it come in to style and what prompted its invention? What lead to its demise? And most importantly- what IS a cloche hat?
Turns out the general answer is hair styles. The cloche came into popularity as it worked with new and modern styles like the Bob and Shingle, while also supporting the active lifestyle of women in the era. Thus the cloche style- snugly fitted around the head without a great deal of weight or size- was the popular option until hair styles began to shift again. In reality it had an extremely long life as far as fashion goes. One article noted that French women had been wearing them for so long the old adage of women constantly changing was beginning to be questioned in regards to the current generations.
As always though, the best way to understand a long lost fashion is to recreate it and test it out. So I made three different styles of hats, all with the same cloche shaped crown, to wear on an upcoming month long trip.
Hat bodies and modern supplies mostly from Judith M Millinery: www.judithm.com/shop/
Crochet patterns for tams: www.etsy.com/listing/79752886...
Crochet pattern for checkered hat: www.etsy.com/listing/49394823...
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🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com)
00:00 Edwardian Bells
04:31 Variety
11:08 Project Plans
13:41 Construction
21:14 Reveal

[@OdeInWessex]

I love hats, on other people and those really suit you. The gold one is really rather spectacular - the kind of hat worn by Rudolph Valentino's paramour, a woman of confidence, fun and adventure. The black one has a touch of 'Italian Widow' about it, terribly stylish and potentially dangerous sheltering dark secrets. The red one, my favourite, is the hat of a trailblazing female reporter fearlessly investigating the murder of the Italian Widow's husband by - allegedly, the deeply in shock paramour of Valentino, all against a Duke Ellington soundtrack. Phew, you have been a busy, very talented woman!

[@mirandarensberger6919]

Please let us know when your screenplay is ready, I totally want to watch that movie!

[@coalsparks]

I agree, the red one is so awesome and makes you look like you’re about to get up to something! :)

[@thedreamsicle1]

Doesn't she have a name?

[@JoannaLouise200]

They're all so beautiful, but I particularly favour the elegant green-gold cloche with the amazing vintage trim & side feathers...it will be so much fun to wear!

[@naowright9308]

With the brass band it made me think, "Snazzy!" I loved it!

[@Chibihugs]

That beautiful cloche hat with your scarlet waves is breathtaking. I am loving this deep dive. I wish hat would be more popular again.

[@denisegore1884]

All fashion trends start with one person. My friends and I wear our hats often.

[@kagitsune]

I predict that they shall! Especially as people become more aware of skin damage from excess sun exposure, and as historically-inspired lower-maintenance hair washing/styling routines gain some popularity. 😁

[@lisaharmon5619]

Hats will be fashionable when we start wearing them. Why wait for "fashion" to tell us what to wear.

[@gustavmielke777]

I always wear hats, everything season. If you like it, wear it.

[@michellebyrom6551]

Cloche hats are the easiest to keep in place when walking about. Like the beanie, the smaller ones don't get in the way in cars either. Start with something simple in a neutral colour. You can add different trims/brooches/hat pins for variation and experiment. You'll soon be proudly sporting something bright and fancy as your confidence grows. Yes. People look. I've never had any nasty comments, only compliments. The rest just smile in a friendly way. Enjoy yourself. 😉

[@chamberswagner2010]

"Police Sergeant Good-Taste" - nice! Now I'm wondering when exactly the term "fashion police" started to be used.

[@RandaEd]

The green hat is SO gorgeous! I didn't expect that, but when you put it on it just came to life.

[@mastersadvocate]

I am a hat person, and I just adore Cloche hats. It was the MISS FISHER'S MURDER MYSTERIES that got me interested in 1920s hats and fashion! I enjoyed listening to your history of the Cloche, and seeing you make some hats was pure magic! Thank you for sharing! ~Janet in Canada

[@allylouise1761]

I am just in awe of how talented you are. Is there anything you can’t do? I think I would feel slightly less inadequate in life if I found out that you were completely inept at folding a fitted sheet (for example).

[@indiabilly]

I second that emotion! Was going to ask if there’s anything she can’t do, I would appreciate it if she could tell me she can’t cook or something- anything to make me feel less inadequate xx

[@NicoleRudolph]

Haha! I’m terrible at traditional sports. Can’t catch or throw a thing.

[@indiabilly]

@@NicoleRudolph thank you, I appreciate the effort, that’s a start! But I’m not that great at sports either xx

[@KellyBurnett138]

@@indiabilly I am good at sports, but I’d rather be a good @sewing/shoe and hat making! 😢

[@user-zp8sk2rc4m]

@Ally Louise I thought exactly the same! She floors me with every video! I'm sure she merely needs to look at a fitted sheet and it obediently folds itself!

[@jennycorey8968]

I could watch you make hats and shoes all day long! My favorite? The olive/gold one.

[@phemyda94]

I wonder how much the ubiquity of the cloche hat was also due to hatmakers being able to use the same blocks for everything. Convenient for the consumer and the manufacturer!

[@aliceblanchard8715]

Observers of the late Queen Elizabeth's hats will have noticed that the same shape has been used over and over - different blocks over the decades. Hat blocks are still made ( Guy Morse-Brown) but are indeed very expensive.

[@sarahburke8955]

The olive hat totally won my heart; it's probably because of the trim. They're all glorious, though- If I could pull off that style, I'd wear all of them!

[@susanblanche9684]

Ofcourse I love that green hat. So chic and classy!!

[@ShannonLambert]

Every project in this series has been more stunning than the last. You've really outdone yourself here, and they're all just gorgeous.

[@vintagelife5195]

These rabbit holes you take us all down are always so interesting. Youre an amazing craftsperson.

[@saneben9917]

Couldn't agree more. What an amazing crafts person xx Such interesting videos. Gives you the history and then you see how things can be crafted, followed by the reveal. I just appreciate and love these types of videos. We'll done Nicole Rudolph. Brilliant video.

[@PumpkinBecki]

When I think of Cloche hats, I immediately think of Stella Gonet in the 1990's BBC TV series "House of Elliot". She looked stunning in all of them! I adore Cloche hats, and I think it's a crying shame hats are no longer part of everyday attire xx

[@mjw1111]

I love these deep dives into the where, when, and how fashion trends start. Awesome video as always.

[@phranerphamily]

I bought a cloche style hat at the J. Peterman store before it disappeared in the 1990s. It is still my favorite hat which is beautiful burgundy with feathers and a velvet black flower. All of your hats are stunning and I think you have inspired me to maybe try my hand at doing my own 🥰🥰🥰

[@ruthmeow4262]

I love cloche hats, would wear them every day if I had the option.

[@sinswept]

You know, I thought the black on black hat would be my favourite because olive is not a favourite colour of mine, but that olive hat and the shape of it really suited you! It was my favourite in the end together with the burgundy one :) So cute!

[@johannageisel5390]

The green and gold one is spectacular! I love it! That trim is amazing! The black one with the simple black band and the red one are tied on position number two of my favourites. The black one with the golden swirls is number three.

[@kikidevine694]

The film, The Gay Divorcee has an older female character who seems to dress stylishly, but a few years behind actual fashion and, if memory serves, wears a beautiful cloche with 'wings' framing her face, accented by darling wispy feathers. I love it because it mimics the art deco shape and frames the face, rather than obscuring it. It also, with the movement of the feathers, emphasises the flighty nature of the character. Hats are extensions of the person wearing them. Which is why yours are so brilliant

[@Fellinara]

I shared this to my facebook because while I don't wear 1920's styles, I loved the how to make them as well as the history. However I melted as soon as I saw the dog in the olive clouche! So freaking adorable!

[@patriciagleve4784]

Wonderful! My favourite 'fashion' period - the long column clothes; the shoes (sigh) the HATS!!!! I've spent a very happy 25 minutes watching this when I should be outside painting the porch 😆When I've finished painting, I'm gonna watch some more! Thank you ❤

[@gideonstupke2257]

I'm so happy to see someone else that has a love for 1920s fashion! I'd love to see these styles make a come back

[@michellebyrom6551]

The green and gold trim looks like it was made for the hat, not the other way round. I love all of them, but that's my favourite. This cruise is going to be a trip of a lifetime. This preparation is half the fun.

[@lauraguglielmo]

It's amazing how much a good hat completes an outfit!!

[@littlegrayfishes]

What beautiful hats! Watching you make these hats reminded me of my millinery internship right after high school. I loved watching the felt cones take shape on the form after steaming, and then linging and decorating them. too bad this profession is a dying one and opening a hat shop usually means not making any money these days unless you are very lucky. But I do love it deeply!

[@johannayaffe2647]

I suggest selling hats online...especially to the rich & famous, or to religious groups, many of whom wear hats for modesty reasons...also in the UK it's pretty de rigueur to wear hats/fascinators for the races, regattas, & weddings - and garden parties

[@elainebye9090]

I love these hats! Especially the green one. I am interested in the ones your mom is making, too. Could you list patterns somewhere?

[@NicoleRudolph]

Crochet patterns for tams: www.etsy.com/listing/797528863/bear-brand-bucilla-300-c1925-pdf-ebook Crochet pattern for checkered hat: www.etsy.com/listing/493948233/fleishers-knitting-crocheting-manual-18

[@kathrynmccarthy]

Oh! I love how these hats turned out. They really complete the look. It's as if you time traveled right out of the 20s

[@jenniferleighmiron8135]

Your hats are absolutely beautiful. I hope you will be taking pictures on your cruise so we can pretend, for just a moment, that we are back in the " roaring twenties" on a cross continental cruise.

[@ByIlonaMillinery]

It's lovely to see interest in millinery! I prefer to apply stiffener to the inside of the hat bodies before they are shaped - this way you avoid the possibility of discoloration and staining from the stiffener. Using fully wet felts can also cause pins to rust and stain the felt - so I always use just steam - just a lot of it. Depending on the quality of the felt, it can take up to 30 minutes for the seam to fully soften the hat body.

[@animosity9197]

I love seeing the different kinds of hats you can make with one hat block! Pinching the top of the crown makes a totally different silhouette with that same block, and I never would have thought to try it without seeing it!

[@janisi9262]

That red hat is so smart with the suit! I see what you mean about the hair felt: it's a completely different texture. I was a little apprehensive about the green shade, but having it paired with the trim and the outfit really balanced the colours. I still think it'd be dodgy with some complexions, but it works on you! At 12:55, there is a hat with cross-lacing, which is a nice decoration in itself, but could possibly be used to keep other decorations in place.

[@frankieamsden7918]

Absolutely FANTASTIC!!! I've been living vicariously through your videos. I would have liked to do this cruise but my husband isn't well enough. I hope you are going to vlog about it. I can't wait to see all your outfits in action.

[@charlottejohnk6712]

Girl you need to be super proud of yourself! Those hats are gorgeous and they look amazing on you❤. I enjoyed watching your process and I learned so many interesting pieces of history. I’ve recently become interested in the 20’s after watching a 1929 silent movie entitled “Why be Good?” The lead actress, Colleen Moore enchanted me so much I got my hair cut just like hers and I love it. Have an amazing time on your cruise, you can rest assured that you’ll be beautifully dressed!

[@amb163]

This is so fascinating to watch! I've made a few felted wool cloches before, but I knit mine huge then wet-felt them down to size, molding them here and there as they dry. A lot of the shape comes from my initial knitting pattern, though. Yours turned out so beautifully -- I might have to steal a few of the shaping techniques you used!

[@annastevens1526]

3:25 Wow! 😳 I've never seen this tall-but-short hairstyle reproduced by any historical recreations or historically-set popular media. A really unusual in-between stage on the road from Edwardian hair-haystacks to sleek Marcel-waved bobs...? Thank you so much for this fascinating deep-dive Nicole, it's awesome. As you note, we generally tend to view the generic '20s cloche in isolation, without really thinking about where it actually came from or went to, so learning more was fascinating! Love seeing your final creations too. (And yeah, I've encountered the phrase "shingling & bingling" in ref. to the 1920s women's haircuts, but only in contemporary fiction...? Think maybe it was in a Dorothy Sayers book?)

[@VtorHunter]

I am loving this series of making clothes for this trip so much. I love all the research and thought that is going into all the layers and accessories. Those hats look so great! Bailey was super cute in the olive one. I can't wait to hear how the trip goes. I would also be interested in how you are going to pack all of these items.

[@tmbentley1966]

I’m imagining a ton of suitcases, a steamer trunk and who knows what else.

[@ginalou5774]

That shot of the model at the end was fabulous. Between the two of you you made those hats look stunning 😊

[@rejoyce318]

Nicole, your hair is stunning, especially the iridescent effect of the colors against the waves.

[@kellysouter4381]

I love those meringues of hats the Edwardian ladies wore. Especially with the scarfs wrapped around. So pretty.

[@johnshepard629]

The model at the end, in the white fur, is extraordinarily elegant and lovely!

[@funkycoldmedina29]

The only hat I ever regret not buying. A plum cloche hat back in high school. It looked so beautiful on and I felt beautiful in it.

[@CastielWillow]

Those. Hats. Are. So. Stinking. ADORABLE!!!!

[@emilyrln]

It's amazing how much shinier the fur felt is than the velour felt! All of these are so gorgeous!! I have severe hat envy now 😂

[@elainecooke156]

I'm so surprised at how popular the snug cloche hats we usually think of, were. Like a beanie hat, there are so few people on whom they look flattering. I guess that still today, people will slavishly wear things that don't suit them, simply because they are currently fashionable. The archetypal fashion victim.

[@jonahandthewolf]

Like large puffed coats, idk why everyone wears them bc they do not suit everyone. Or berets

[@argusfleibeit1165]

Really love the olive one. I have always been a hat-wearer, mostly to avoid sun. And I tend to like the ones that come down over my eyes, not sticking up from the crown. However, I often find myself feeling a little claustrophobic in them, feeling like my peripheral vision is impaired. First I'm pulling it down, then I'm pushing it back. And because I've also worn glasses most of my life, that tends to interfere with freedom of hat wearing. The first cloche I ever saw was in about 1970 in a magazine showing maxi-coats. It was a heavy crocheted cloche, and I was crazy about the look. When I actually found one in a local store, I was SO happy. I wore that hat all winter for several years. Recently I challenged myself to replicate the shape by crocheting three or four yarn strands together to get the right weight. They turned out great, but living in Georgia, they are probably too hot to get much wear out of.

[@asiljanijara169]

The red hair looks amazing. It really suits you

[@dagnolia6004]

The side look you give the camera whilst wearing the fabulous goldenrod hat is reminiscent of a young Norma Shear… so beautiful!

[@MysteryMommy1]

The red and the yellow green both set off your face beautifully

[@luciarel8131]

I wish that making clothing, hats and shoes was really as effortless as you make it look! The hats are all stunning, but my favorite it definitely the red, with the ridge on top, and a perfect match with the suit.

[@chrisbeckstrom6182]

The white soutache on the first black hat is brilliant, Brava!

[@kimberlyarnett2356]

I have to let you know that as I was watching this video, my number one human walked by and exclaimed, "Wow! I love what she's done with her hair. It looks so good on her!". I told him about the cruise, etc., And I think he might be a little jealous. I'm in awe of your skills and hope you have a wonderful time!

[@jacquelinejanewashere]

I love your relationship with your mom, mine wouldn't make me toast let alone a beautiful hat 😂❤

[@lourdesgallegos7508]

The “Bingle” 😂 now I can’t get it out of my head…

[@TheGabygael]

I have a cloche hat (probably from the 70s or 80s)that sits way too high on my head to work for the 20s and i've been obsessed with 1916-1917 parisian fashion lately

[@cassandralyris4918]

I always felt that cloche hats looked weird on me, but it looks GREAT on you. Another fantastic job. 🤩

[@chalkncheeseneeds723]

So all of the dowager countess of Grantham's hats could be classed as cloches? Absolutely fascinating history!

[@EliDeNeige]

This yellow hat hat the nice brim is SOOOO nice and fit so well !

[@renbortosky7052]

These hats are all so beautiful! I think the olive one is my favorite, but the silk on the red one is just gorgeous.

[@bellablue5285]

Ooh the green one in more of a bell shape is calling me (they're all gorgeous, but the green one in particular I adore). Though afraid I share a similar problem as the doggo at the end, in my case large head plus too much hair equals hats falling off 😅 Edit: ack, actually the thumbnail looks more yellow on my phone, either way, it's beautiful

[@JadyLester]

Cloche hats are favorites of mine. Im low-key obsessed with these, this content is directed right at me

[@XChoclateThunderX]

I need more of these hats in my life again

[@kathyjohnson2043]

The green hat is AMAZING! However, I can see why others would find the red one to be their favorite. Frankly, all 3 look wonderful.

[@litzgrahmann6468]

These hats are perfection! So flattering on you.

[@MichelleH1791]

These cloches are beautiful! I love, love, love hats.

[@lesleyharris525]

You look so glamorous but puppy in the hat is just so cute 😍

[@brainmachine235]

I recommend an Internet search in French when it comes to many questions about the history of fashion. I Googled l’histoire de la chapeau cloche and the very first citation affirms exactly what Nicole found for the origin of the cloche: 1920. What’s amazing was this piece of trivia - that the hat industry in Paris goes back to the 1300s! Not a surprise. Paris has always been THE hub for fashion design, although this started to change within the past half century. Going way back, Marie Antoinette created a government position: Minister of Fashion! How did women the world round learn what was “au courant”? Of course there were sketches that would eventually make their way on ships crossing the ocean but these generally made it to the hands of the wealthy only. What assisted in the dissemination to a more widespread community were sketches shown in newspapers and when photography became more commonplace, drawings were swapped out for photos. Speaking of hat designs, sing “In Your Easter Bonnet” to yourself. You’ll get to the line “And you’ll find that you’re in the rotogravure.” Look up this word ;-) Going further back by a few centuries and you’ll learn about Pandora dolls. These were small carved figures, little mannequins with perfect representations of what a designer had created for the coming few seasons. (Due to the slowness of getting these dolls sent out, receiving orders a few months later, and sending the finished product back to the buyer, this could take many months - the opposite of today’s fast fashion.) Important to note: The dresses were ordered only by la creme de la creme of society who could afford such a luxury. Sidebar: The women who worked as maids - and slaves - for the upper class were privy to what their mistresses were wearing and of course, when these wealthy and well-attired young ladies went out in public, appeared at balls, etc., just as today - “Who are you wearing?” first coined by the late comedian Joan Rivers while interviewing stars at the Oscars - all of the women (and surely the gay men) were abuzz about the styles that they were seeing but that they would never be able to own unless they could afford to buy the fabric and thread, lace, owned scissors, and could sew. The historical fashion dolls are few and far between, likely because they were handled by so many people and then handed to lucky little girls to play with. Still, many survived and are in collections. If/when you go to the UK or want to jump in now, go to rct.uk and use fashion dolls as your search term. (If I had it to do all over again I would become a costume conservationist at a museum - or a research scientist in the field of bio aerosols!) Also see textiletoursofparis.com and read this fabulous article “Fashion ministers, merchants and miniatures” All of this leads to the eventual creation of the boutique and then the department store. Finally, hats off to Nicole! Her videos are sublime. This is one very knowledgeable, personable and skilled lady… Idea: Nicole, why not work through a travel agency to create a tour for you and your subscribers? I did this years ago when I took a group of 28 women on a study tour of China. What an adventure. Some ups and downs but all told, it was an incredible blast!

[@purplealice]

When I was a little girl in the 1950s, cloche hats were very popular. It wasn't until Jackie Kennedy's pillbox hat caught on that the cloche disappeared.

[@tmbentley1966]

The green hat looks absolutely stunning on you!

[@sharlahoffman4326]

Your dog can rock hats better than I can and I’m jealous

[@junolee8826]

i'm 9 seconds in. your hair is STUNNING.

[@alisalarsen9163]

The red one is definitely my favorite!

[@juliemcleod1119]

The Red hat is so cheeky, love it..

[@roselewis24]

Beautiful I think the green suits your face the best but the red with that suit is the best complete outfit. I wish I had the time to learn all these crafts.

[@SeeMeRolling]

I always wanted make historical clothes, hats and shoes like u do, and I get so inspired from u, I love everything u create, and u remind me that something so time-consuming and complicated as tailoring and shoemaking is POSSIBLE for a regular person like me, my whole life I said to myself I can never do that, where will I find ways to learn? Where will I get materials? But u remind me that if I really want it to happen I can make it happen, and instead of doing nothing, I shouldn't let anything stop my creativity, and should follow my heart!!! SO THANK U SOO SOOOO MUCH for sharing ur creativity and hard work and wisdom with us, it is so inspiring and motivating❤ I'm turning 25 on Monday and I'm getting my first own sewing machine as a gift from my dad!! (I'm very inexperienced so I'm planning sew simple staple pieces at first)

[@Lonelyone1111]

I watched you make the Capitol flats it was amazing work thank you for keeping history alive. We learn to appreciate even shoes

[@isabelpires927]

These are glorious, and the whole capsule wardrobe is turning out soooo beautiful!

[@cherylrosbak4092]

Fur felt has such a beautiful sheen. I have a brown fur felt cloche with cream top-stitching; I don't know if it's 20s or 60s revival, but it's one of my favourite hats.

[@lisabmpls]

This video and the ones you did for the Dandy Wellington cruise bring to mind my Great-Grandmother’s photo album of a Trans-Atlantic trip she and a friend made in 1929. They went from the US to Europe and the Middle East in Jan 1929 and cloche hats were definitely worn! Thanks for making such cool content!

[@lisacestkowski1805]

The gold one is my favorite, but I love all three!

[@melindaschink6072]

The olive-gold hat was my favorite. Very well done! I 'm envious of your talent. I can't wear hats. My head is too big. Lol

[@vickywitton1008]

So sad you didn't get to wear most of them! They were so beautiful!

[@paulamiller8386]

The green hat was sooo good on you. I love cloche hats. I have 2. One from a chain store and the other from a charity shop. Both get a lot of wear each year.

[@susandickerson2663]

They really finished off the outfits!! Amazing!! Looked good on the dog too😉

[@dismae7784]

Ugh loving this 1920s series

[@yaourtprintanier2377]

I never was that hyped by a hat

[@TheMimzez]

red is my favorite color but I think the yellow-green hat came out the cutest! tho the red hat looks really good on you

[@melissashiels7838]

Loving the red waves, Nicole!

[@heidicook2395]

Thank you. I love a cloche hat with a little brim. I'm blind and extremely light sensitive, (Like 80% of blind people I have some vision, it's just not trustworthy) so I always wear a hat when I go out and sometimes indoors depending on the light level.

[@sarahwatts7152]

They are all fabulous! If you suddenly can't find the yellow one, don't come looking for me! (I will have already fled the country.)

[@waterbitten]

I know that hatmaking as a career is a thing but somehow watching you make a hat from fabric, still seems magical somehow.

[@ceciliabergstrand8845]

Beautiful!!! You are amazing! Maybe the tight fitted hats came in fashion as motor car racing was getting popular, and the tight leather flyer caps were used when flying airplanes.

[@batbratsdesigns]

The 20's are my favorite time for fashion. The hairstyles are amazing and the basic makeup is beautiful. I call the 20's the cheeky fashion time.

[@FlybyStardancer]

The hats came out amazing!

[@marynimocks6791]

You are an absolute WIZARD with hats and shoes!!! And everything else. Haha! So well done!

[@ixchelkali]

The hats turned out great and they look terrific on you, especially the gold one. You have just the right face for a cloche (though I bet you look good in a fedora, as well). My mom wore cloche hats when she was a teenager in the 1920s and they suited her. Likewise turbans, which were also popular. Me, not so much.

[@froggiepie]

I have a modern maroon and black cloche hat and it’s my fav hat ever. wearing rn in fact!

[@kerriemaher2822]

Hats suit you so much. The outfits are really coming together now & they look wonderful

[@hollyerin897]

Nicole really feeling herself in that red suit and I am SO HERE FOR IT

[@therewillbecatswithgwenhwyfar]

OMG they came out so well! I especially loved the first one, and the red one!

[@SusanYeske701]

That yellow green one with the vintage trim looks spectacular! And that's not even a color I usually like, so wow!