The important difference between air-dried and kiln-dried lumber

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[@tbac2432]

feel better. I deleted it ? don't worry about responding.

[@StumpyNubs]

@@tbac2432 - Dude, you can't tell people to "settle down" when they don't get your joke, then get all offended when someone makes a little joke in return. You're taking this stuff WAY to seriously!

[@williamfitzer4805]

hahaha...not...:) if I could give you 3 face palm emojis I would. lol

[@nicholassmith5079]

How does ridge carbide compare to forest blades like the woodworker 2 and chop master. I use the forest and love them. They are in the same price range and the factory is local to me which is great for sharpening service.

[@agualotus]

Hey stumpy nubs, i realise this is a late response to your video, sorry. I just purchased my first saw mill in february 2022, I intend to build a lot, a mill house, a solar kiln, a shop/barn and ultimately a house. Furniture may follow. What i need now is guideance, there used to be a book published for (or by) the DNR/US forestry department, the information inside was most valuable to a sawyer, pertaining to how to build a kiln, wood species, optimal cuts, kiln times, calculating board foot, how to charge for lumber, Etc. Etc.. When i asked my local DNR forestry office about this book, the reaction was less than helpful. Being told to just google or you tube search the info I may need when needed was not the favoured response I was hoping for. Despite living in northern MN, the information is scarce and those who have the information are afraid to loose business or their job (insert underlying condition of a union mentality) In short, I have little help or guidance after cutting a tree down. If you know of such a book or web page and are willing to point me in that direction I'd be most grateful. Thank you. Don

[@czellner5894]

Thanks James! You're doing a great job producing useful content . I, for one, really appreciate what you do!!

[@VKMilling]

Just now came across this video. Some good information. Only thing I would add to this would be that, most hardwoods that you'll work with that are dried properly are first cut and air dried for a period of time. Walnut, we cut and stack for up to 18 months to air dry before kiln drying. Oaks, Chestnuts, Cherry, Maple etc are generally air dried for 12 months or so. The target to get them to is < 20% MC before putting them into a kiln. This reduces the instances of case hardening, spider-webbing and allows us to cull out materials that would be a waste of time and money to put into a kiln. Walnut is a special instance in that, air drying allows the tannins to leach out into the sapwood thus converting more of the wood into the darker material that is prized. However, the best method to do this is to steam the walnut first. This process will help convert a much larger percentage of the sapwood to the darker heart wood as well as make the heart wood a much deeper, more chocolaty color rather than its natural brown & purple coloration.

[@azubankull1939]

"We can make a whole video about acclimating lumber before you use it" Please do. Would love to watch it.

[@artiet5982]

Azuban Kull agreed! I’m looking to start the process of mfg my own lumber.

[@danbance5799]

@@artiet5982 It's a lot of work and any logs smaller than 14" diameter will only yield junk. Be very precise in your stacking and throw a lot of extra weight on top or half your boards will be so badly warped as to be unusable. The process isn't very complicated. Green wood stinks. If you store it in your attached garage, the smell will invade your house. Still, the summer I spent sawing wood on my friend's mill saved me a lot of money (I still have some planks a decade later!) and having furniture that I took from tree to finished product is very satisfying, so go for it.

[@nebraskaman8247]

Agreed! That's the perfect video idea.

[@michaelgavin7621]

Did this ever happen?

[@azubankull1939]

@@michaelgavin7621 Don't think so

[@andylevine4018]

I use aired dried wood for several projects. I resaw firewood logs, usually various types of oak. I stack them properly and cover with pavers for weight. I paint the ends and write the date on the edge once the paint is dry. Boards are cut to 5/4, quarter sawn when possible and 12 to 18 inches long. I let dry 1 year per inch of width then bring into the garage where they might sit for another 6 months to a year before I decide what I will make. They may bow and twist a bit but that’s why I cut them to 5/4 to end up planed down to 3/4 or 1/2. I made a jig that I use to take care of the bows and twist on my thickness planer (no $$ or space for a jointer). I make make some beautiful boxes and other small projects, usually to give away.

[@m95673]

Fantastic information !!! I love your videos and your "to the point " quality. Thanks for respecting your audience's time by not dragging out your talking points. I think most presenters would have taken an hour to cover the same material. Forever a fan of your channel.

[@gabrielpenner]

This video is so fantastic!!! I’ve spent forever looking for a video that goes over “drying theory” and you nailed sooooo many of my questions 👍 thanks!

[@onemancrewtrade5151]

Stumpy Nubs is just another level in the Woodworking community 💯🔥

[@jamesschrum8924]

Enjoy your videos. You right about drying times, I cut some chestnut up that was on the ground for 10 months. Took almost five years in a unheated building to get it almost dry enough to use. I finally put it in my motorcycle trailer and heated it with a fan blowing thru to get it dry enough to build a rool top desk. Here in N.C. in my area the wood in our home test 10%. Keep up the great work.

[@Titannurse]

There is a book I have been meaning to read called "Norwegian Wood: Chopping, Stacking, and Drying Wood the Scandinavian Way" by Lars Mytting. Don't know how that would relate to air or kiln drying. Thank you for the continued education James.

[@triftenchmil5944]

Come for the name, stay for the great lines like "One of the many concepts invented to make woodworking more confusing, like board feet and pre-drilling."

[@jetblackbiovuac]

Just taking a moment to say I really appreciate this video!

[@davidpape9726]

Depends on where you live. The humidity is low enough where I live we easily get the wood to 8% per inch in less than one year. I have a whole barn full of many different species of wood that I have been using in furniture for decades with no issues.

[@stevebengel1346]

Lucky you, lol. Humidity around where I live is usually a low of 70%; the past few days it's been 90%+

[@davo7512]

@@stevebengel1346 yeah same, I made a segmented bowl for my grandparents who live in about 20-30% humidity and the next time I visited them it was full of cracks

[@altosack]

Low humidity areas likely have way less available native wood suitable for furniture building.

[@sihledr3448]

I'm doing Wood technology at Nelson Mandela University and this video was informative 😊😊

[@neebinmakwah349]

Air dried lumber, works better for acoustic musical instruments. If you use kiln dried, the artificial heating literally changes the woods tonal structure. II think you were a bit high on the air dried at 15%, closer to 12%. You're also using thicker boards, then I do. Love your channel, have learned a lot, many thanks.

[@springcopsespaniels2189]

Uk outside drying gets you no lower than 18-20%. I’ve 14 year old Cherry which is shed dried to 11%. Wood will only dry externally to your local emc value.

[@daynpeters6798]

"...one of the many concepts invented to make woodworking more confusing - like board feet and pre-drilling." 😂

[@bryceharding1382]

U forgot about us wood carvers where me myself personally would chose Air dried everytime. Love your channel keep on keeping on

[@CairnCreek]

Great info. We run a Woodmizer. I learned several things watching your video.

[@mrupholsteryman]

You're kiln me, Smalls! I'll see myself out and get some fresh air now.... 😇😎😀

[@thomasbrown938]

You should be air dry by now 😁

[@stringmanipulator]

I love your videos, :) I would love to see a video about how to properly air dry lumber, I imagine many of your viewers are amateurs like me, and many of us cannot afford to buy kiln dried wood especially since we don't make things for profit but out of passion. I am passionate about woodturning especially, and it can be very frustrating to spend time and money on a piece that will crack because of inadequate understanding about moisture content and drying speed ..

[@CommercialForest]

stringmanipulator Whenever we air dry larger slabs or wood boards, I put plastic over over the ends. It’s amazing how much that has cut down twisting/bowing/splitting. Moisture escapes out of the end grain way faster than the other sections of the board. By slowing it down, we’ve eliminated many of our air-drying related problems.

[@shawnpillsbury9559]

Inexperienced woodworker here, especially with wood. I live in Michigan. 78 pct relative humidity lately. I bought 5/4 cherry wood that had been air dried in a non-climate controlled cabin for 6+ years. The wood measured 12% moisture content. I brought it to my garage and stacked it. I have an electric heater that I set to 40 degrees while I’m working. 4-6 hours on the weekends. I milled a board with a planer to make a keepsake box (10” x 5” x 3” with the top and sides 5/16”) for my granddaughter. I did all the cutting, planing, etc work in my garage, but glue required 50+ degree temp so I brought the wood in and let it sit for a day inside then glued the pieces together. A day later I applied Odie’s Oil. The next morning I noticed the top of the box had curled. I think I should have let the wood acclimate longer to the indoor humidity Level (33%)? Or, the piece of wood might have been too thin? Any suggestions on what could I have done differently? I have a feeling the top would curl up in the house no matter how long I let it acclimate. I can’t store the wood inside before making projects

[@Hayseedskiboy]

Thanks James! Great information .

[@ripntearslayer9101]

Please do more vids on drying your own lumber PLEASE

[@missouribob7850]

Thanks for the video. I like how you present your videos without a lot of hype and drama. Keep posting (please).

[@jaychapman6448]

Could you recommend a good book or video on the proper steps to go from freshly cut log with bark on it all the way to air dried lumber ready to be used in a project?

[@robertbeebe7520]

I would like to see that also

[@AhmetCnarOzuneUyans]

This was really helpfull... I bought two big pieces of beech wood and when I cut them in table saw, to under 3-4cm, they bend that much that it becomes impossible to cut. I ask few wood workers, but they didn't know why. Now thanks to you, I know why. They seem to be kill dried too quickly... I bought those lumbers from a seller which I usually don't buy from... Thank you very much

[@brianford8757]

Colorado humidity is between 30-42% with an annual average of 33% which is in line with the graph in this video. I’m on that Hisao Hanafusa train.

[@roycabalo]

Another good video on your behalf thank you. So here is a good question - How much moisture is kiln dried wood going to reabsorb in an area like where we live in Florida where we are very often in high humidity?

[@jakematic]

Haven't noticed much change here in NC, but admittedly we have less humidity year round than FL. I think the important thing is to let the lumber acclimate for a few weeks - no matter where it comes from. Even then I always let in stabilize for a few days after re-sawing or any major operation before assembly, both for stress relief if any and if it might have been case hardened.

[@rjlavallee3575]

As described in "Understanding Wood" by R. Bruce Hoadley the water content of wood -- even kiln dried -- will continue to follow the relative humidity of the environment in which it is stored (I'm REALLY paraphrasing here). Basically, take a snapshot of the graph James displayed; wood will vary in moisture content at a rate similar to that graph. I say similar because absorption rates vary by species: something you can go and look up if you need more accurate specifics.

[@moredataforya.7548]

This is a major help, thank you!

[@billg7813]

I have not done well with air-dried but I also hate to leave what I think might be a useable piece of wood on the ground. I use my air-dried for craft and/or toy projects. Furniture or construction... kiln dried.

[@dennisrayl3485]

Suggestions on drying olive wood?

[@philmurphy7487]

Board feet and pre drilling lol fricken hilarious

[@davidkenagy8706]

The graph was interesting, especially at levels of 40-60% humidity. I live in NE Ohio, and my dehumidifier never stops in the summer (trying to keep humidity near 60%). But now (Feb) it’s 40%. I care about that, because the 3 oak trees that I sawed and stacked in the basement (in 2008) are stuck at 10% moisture content. I gave up waiting to reach 8%. But the graph seems to show that an indoor humidity of 40-50% is consistent with an EMC of 10% or a bit more.

[@MrMarkpeggy]

Thanks for the great video James

[@tnekkc]

"Understanding Wood" 2000. It seems like I have been buying and giving away copies of that book since before 2000.

[@rjlavallee3575]

Yup. Brilliant resource.

[@MINGLE2008]

Thanks for the very useful information.

[@beckydamamaswan2468]

The chemistry of wood working.😂

[@bobby-c7731]

Great video as always, James. thank you! in a future tools video could you discuss moisture meters? I have seen others discuss the topic and would love to hear your thoughts. I searched and didn't see one on your channel, but if I missed it, just point me to it and I will be on my way. thanks again.

[@FranconiaFriend]

I have a couple of black walnut trees and a pecan tree on my property that are dropping some branches. I'd like to keep some of the wood for small projects. Will see how air drying works out.

[@MrAlchemist7777]

Thanks James, I truly appreciated appreciate useful information.

[@valuepurposemission7517]

i know im a little snarky but i enjoy your content , keep up the good work :)

[@J.A.Smith2397]

Always so informational, you my boy blue

[@mrx.2233]

Master Nubs, you may have done this before but I am going to ask anyway. Have you done a video on hand planers, different brand models and tasks they perform. This would be very valuable for anyone starting woodworking.

[@johnjennings8085]

The title picture for this video had to be taken at Lowes home of the straight board that warps when you get it home.

[@amarbalaydin3996]

first time on this channel and I thought you had guns behind you🤣🤣🤣

[@rosshollinger8097]

Thanks, James. I understand a little more than I did.

[@zanderday4466]

well I learned something new today - Thanks!!

[@johnharvey5412]

I wondered why walnut turns purple sometimes. Now I know! We used to cut all kinds of stuff from fallen trees in the parks where I worked, and most of the time it would get all kinds of cracks, poplar in particular.

[@andrewv5104]

Steaming walnut is what changes the color not the kiln process.

[@juanestrada3874]

I have aired dried my milled oak in mesquite outside. It does well in my environment (southern Arizona). 🤣🤣🤣

[@passedhighschoolphysics6010]

Excellent video, thank you.

[@jemmieplasse2460]

Very informative. Had the info I was looking for and then some. Thank you

[@andykirk2168]

I always enjoy your information very knowledgeable thanks great education for me

[@mikecurtin9831]

Very useful information. Thanks much. Clicked "thumbs up" to crush a troll.

[@willhartgrave3130]

I tend to air dry to about 20-24 percent then finish it in the kiln to about 5 then aclimate it in the shop it gives me good results

[@amazingsnow]

That is an impressive tool storage area. I am sure that is only a small part of it.

[@truckdrivinmilanr]

Excellent advice 👍

[@garrettp.5018]

What about ensuring the wood doesn't have any bugs? What would make it safe?

[@brainfornothing]

Very interesting. Thanks for sharing !

[@dmdeemer]

But, how do you measure the moisture content of wood? I mean, I know there is a gizmo I can buy that will give me a number, but I need to know how it works (and how I could mess up the measurement) before I can trust the number.

[@rodcormier7428]

Always great info ... thx for the video

[@walterrider9600]

thank you . i did not know that about the lumber

[@jakelilevjen9766]

I live in Colorado. Can we call that "Arid Dried"?

[@davidnadig9611]

Great info. Thanks. I’m in florida. I’m wondering if air drying works here. Outdoor RH is rarely below 80% all year. But indoor I only get RH so perhaps I don’t need to dry as much? Maybe 12% could work?

[@brimtlgtr]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge on kiln-dried and air-dried lumber. It raises a question for me. I currently buy all my lumber, which is kiln-dried. I keep it in the garage, which is attached to the house (opens into the basement) and is subject to the wild fluctuations in climate. I live in the upper midwest, where we normally see freezing winters with low relative humidity to humid summers well into the upper 80's and low 90s. So is it okay to keep my lumber in the garage, or should I bring it into my basement? Thanks, and any community responses are also greatly appreciated.

[@StumpyNubs]

Garage storage is fine. Just bring it inside to acclimate a few days before you use it.

[@brimtlgtr]

@@StumpyNubs I forgot to mention that my garage is also my makeshift shop; that is, I do all of my cutting and shaping out there. I assume you would suggest the same thing? Thanks!

[@Valor4Christ]

How can you know at what temp and how fast and slow you should dry the wood in a kiln. I'm getting my kiln slowly up to 150f, and a week to week in a half it is usually dry. But I get a lot of wrapped boards

[@VaranusVideos]

I ALMOST BUST A NUT AT ALL THOSE TOOLS BEHIND YOU....AS A HOME DEPOT WARRIOR THAT IS...……...EMOTIONALLY BEAUTIFUL!!!!

[@222rich]

have you ever used alder? we have lots of alder & willow on our uk property, we were hoping to mill it for a worksho floor

[@spud13x13]

Hi James, I love your videos and am consuming them at a prodigious rate. But, sorry, I'm gonna be THAT guy.... Hysteresis - hiss-ter-EE-sis. (Yeah, I'm an engineer.) Okay, I'm all better now, carry on. Seriously, though, thank you for what you're doing; you've educated me and entertained me beyond measure!

[@Mrdubomb]

I was absent a few days in wood drying school so I dont get a few things, that maybe someone else does. What happens if you are air drying outside and it rains? Does the moisture content go back up? What happens if you dry, acclimate and all that stuff, then homeowner opens the windows? Are you only supposed to put wood furniture in homes that are sealed from the outdoors? What gives with the big box store wood? Was it dried too quickly or not enough? Any thoughts?

[@StumpyNubs]

It takes time for moisture to leave wood, or to be re-absorbed. Rain will saturate the outer fibers, but it is the humidity in the air that will make the most difference. Likewise, opening a window in a house will have little affect unless the windows are opened all the time. But even with all of this, a board will never again be as wet as it was in the living tree.

[@chris_thornborrow]

im forced to work in an effective outdoor environment - little protection from atmospheric temperature and moisture changes. Does anyone have recommendations how to bring a finished piece of furniture into the house to minimise bend/warp/crack?

[@dallasbrooks2990]

what % moisture content would be ideal for interior framing. For example, interior bedroom walls.

[@jakematic]

35% RH bwahahahaha ... I forget you don’t live in the South ! Great topic that is well explained 👍

[@StumpyNubs]

As I said, that's inside a climate-controlled house. You have dehumidifiers in the south, don't you?

[@jakematic]

Stumpy Nubs not normally, the AC takes out what it can. It’s 75 in my house with 55% at the moment. That’s great and won’t go much/any lower until heating season when it drops to 20ish percent.

[@asbrand]

@@StumpyNubs Here in Atlanta...might get down to 35%...in the dead of a dry winter... ;-) We often see humidity levels in the 80-95% range, spring through end of summer. Is like breathing hot soup.

[@StumpyNubs]

@asbrand - I don't live in the south, but we can get pretty humid in Michigan on occasion. However, inside climate controlled houses with air conditioning the humidity level is much lower.

[@catchemalive]

This is a great topic for me because I just cut a walnut tree into 2" slabs hoping to make a table for my family. It's set up and stickered under my shed for a long time I suppose. Living in South AR where humidity is sky high, what's a range of moisture I can live with since I know it will never get down to 8%?? Thanks guys for the help!

[@DavidWhite]

Those numbers might great for up north bur here I Florida it's a whole different Ball Game. The relative humidity here indoors can be over 60% even with A/C. If we can find lumber with any level below 20% we are in hog heaven.

[@StumpyNubs]

You can find them. Just buy a dehumidifier.

[@jakematic]

Same in the Carolinas, Dave except we get a little break in winter. Can you imagine emptying a dehumidifier every 5 minutes... I'd need 10 of them for my average sized house and a second mortgage to pay the electric bill LOL

[@wakeupcall8188]

QUESTION I have "apparently" 2 years dried, 50mm thick beech, with 20 % moisture, which was outside for awhile and looks that have more moisture i mean originally more So i have some stupid idea to dry few boards with torch Not burning them japanese style, but evenly try to get moisture out So my question is Did anyone tried that What kind results had Is it even possible Thanks

[@Trigg6978]

What about saving wood from trees you've had to cut down that you'd like to use for turning later on?

[@jimbo2629]

Seal the ends and wait 1 year for every inch thickness outdoors. Small diameters tend to split after you’ve turned them. So do large diameters! The slower you dry the better, as long as they don’t rot or get woodworm. Better to just buy in dried timber that you can see has no splits.

[@nightcatarts]

Easy enough; stick it in the garage or shed or somewhere protected from the weather but less dry than the eventual location of the finished item if you can, then rough cut it, then move it into an area with similar humidity to that area, such as any room but a kitchen or bathroom. You could always leave it outdoors & covered, but that will extend the time it takes to dry by a long way. To prevent cracking during the first stage, cover any exposed endgrain with a (semi) non-permeable seal such as melted wax or paraffin jelly or even sanding sealer or varnish. In a pinch, you could probably use a few sheets of waxed/greaseproof baking paper from your kitchen & just tape those around the cut ends. This will allow the moisture to exit from the longgrain more or less at the same speed as it exits from the endgrain, so no more splits from the heartwood to the bark. Once it's been in the garage or shed for a long time, you don't need to worry about re-sealing this every time you take a slice off, but it doesn't hurt to do it anyway. I've got several trees in my garage & they'll be in there as long as I can leave them (six months plus is by far the best), slowly shrinking as they lose moisture. Then I'll cut them oversized & move them into my bedroom. They'll sit there for at least a couple of weeks & then they'll be cut to size/shape for the lathe. By that time they should be dry enough for minimal warping, unless perhaps you're doing something very thin-walled. Sometimes it's easier to turn moister wood though, & then seal it all over once you're done. If what you've got is prone to chipping or splintering, a little less drying time might benefit you on the lathe.

[@Trigg6978]

@@nightcatarts thanks for the detailed reply. I have a maple I'm dealing with on my property and then a selection of trees on my parents I have to deal with so this is very helpful.

[@jugainabalu4778]

wow.. from now on i will call you mr. wood google hehe you help us a lot, ppl should watch your video before they do something with wood .. thanks for making this channel

[@kenhawkins1033]

I was given a small barn this winter. All of the lumber was mine for the taking. It was built from rough sawn, milled onsite lumber. A lot of it had aged to a beautiful driftwood gray, still quite solid where it had not contacted the ground. My apprehension lies with the species. It is mostly popple, with some birch and cedar here and there. Is popple worth building anything with? I have never heard anyone speak of working with it. Does it glue well and accept a finish? Any insight would be appreciated.

[@StumpyNubs]

Some people who say "popple" are talking about aspen, others are speaking about poplar. Not sure which you mean. Poplar is a common secondary wood for furniture, used where it won't be seen, or it is sometimes stained to mimic premium wood like cherry. Aspen is a very soft, light wood. It's not well suited to structural components. I wouldn't make chairs from it. But it's straight-grained, carves easily and looks good for lots of woodworking projects.

[@kenhawkins1033]

@@StumpyNubs If it helps at all, this building was in Traverse City, Michigan. All I have ever known these trees as is popple. Very common in the Boardman River valley along with the big cedars and birch.

[@alaskankare]

so is this why would in a coastal city lumber yard is warped? there is more humidity than where it was processed?

[@StumpyNubs]

Lumber yard wood is usually warped because it was milled when it was sopping wet and warped as it dried. Wood will always move when it dries. That's why we wait to mill our project boards flat until right before we use them.

[@thekchile]

Those saw blades work well with the saw stop? They can still trigger the brake mechanism?

[@StumpyNubs]

Yes, I use them on my SawStop every day.

[@noahone2045]

Can I used air dried soft yellow pine wood to make a pallet wall inside of my home or will I have issues with mold growth at some point down the road? I intend to use an oil based stain and polyurethane on the air dried lumber but just want to make sure I’m not sealing the moisture in the board which I imagine can cause problems later on down the line.

[@StumpyNubs]

No, moisture that's naturally inside air-dried wood shouldn't cause a problem with mold.

[@noahone2045]

Stumpy Nubs I’m having issues with mold removal. So the wood doesn’t have to be dried to 6-8 percent in order to be brought inside? I would think if there’s any moisture inside the board that once hung up on the wall water could possibly get trapped between the wall and the board further resulting in the incubation of mold-like conditions.

[@codacreator6162]

Is acclimating lumber a good practice? And if I keep my lumber in my garage in Phoenix too long (how long is too long?), will it become too brittle? So, I shouldn't stock lumber? I just started this... Hobby? Anyway, I've noticed that some of the lumber I get from my box store is heavier that other cuts of the same dimension and feel cool to the touch. I assume those are higher moisture content. I've also discovered that boards I bought a few weeks ago, now feel lighter and none of them seem to be bent or twisted at all. Is drying a straightening process, too? Or, is it just as likely to twist while sitting in my garage?

[@andavalb]

Hi James. Great vid. So when you plane down one face of a kiln dried board and it warps, is that not still a moisture problem? Looking to buy a thicknesser (using the UK meaning of the word - think you term it a planer thicknesser?), but I want to avoid the wood warping because I exposed new wood surfaces by taking off the outer layers. Do I leave the thicknessed wood a little oversized for a couple of days and then run it through the thicknesser again and so creep up on it to get a flat board that stays flat ?

[@StumpyNubs]

There is always moisture in the wood. When you plane just one side, you expose damper wood on that side which leads to warping. Plane evenly on both sides... If you're working with rough boards, joint and plane them down to near the finished thickness, then let them sit overnight to adapt to all that material you removed and the moist fibers you exposed. You can remove any minor warping that occurs overnight when you finish the milling the next day... Cut your joinery as soon as the boards are milled. If you let them sit another day or two, they may not be flat anymore. If you won't be able to cut your joinery right away, wait to do that final milling until just before you can cut the joinery. If you run out of time and you didn't finish the joinery, wrap the boards in plastic bags for the night.

[@silverfox8801]

My furniture never moves whether I use air dried or kiln dried! The six inch nails see to that!!?? 😁

[@vincentlabrecque2275]

I plan on drying my wood inside my garage with fans and dehumidifier(s). Is it realistic to think that I will be able to bring it down to within 6-8%? Also, can I rely on a moisture meter to know when the wood will be ready for furniture projects?

[@edmcdonald2852]

I live in Arizona where the humidity levels are lower than much of the country. Is air dried lumber here any more reliable? Are there meters that can effectively indicate the moisture level in a board?

[@stallionranchwoodworks]

I air dry all my lumber here in AZ, It don't take long with our very low humidity. Like Stumpy said, when your ready to make something, make sure to bring into your shop for a week or so to acclimate before milling it up. So far I have a "zero" failure rate on glue joints or warping of any kind.

[@edmcdonald2852]

Stallion Ranch Woodworks Thanks!

[@paulcrow4827]

As your channel has evolved over the years, I find it more educational than ever today. I do miss the old corny jokes and cameo appearances by Moustache Mike. MM means more to me after I heard about the history of the two of you.

[@rgfishing2105]

Is ok to try and kiln dry fresh cut lumber?

[@fishhuntadventure]

This is weird. We used to travel a fair shake to buy air dried pine for furniture. Specifically because it was air dried. Hardwood air dries nicely, too. I’ve built furniture from trees I cut myself and air dried for a year. Red birch, black cherry, sugar maple. Seems red oak is not generally available sawed from air dried stock around here. Air dried lumber generally doesn’t have internal tension from drying. Not against KD but just saying

[@donalddavis8007]

Store lumber from warping

[@adammoore7994]

Perfect

[@greatlakesrealestate]

Red wings!

[@daveviana5663]

I need your back drop in my shop please, and oh ya, go Red Wings!

[@StumpyNubs]

Not a backdrop. Those are my tools.

[@daveviana5663]

@@StumpyNubs I know, lol.

[@robertweissman5911]

What can't I just hammer two nails into a board of wood to use as electrodes, then attach a simple ten dollar voltmeter, take readings of resistance, voltage, whatever, and then extrapolate from that, what sort of moisture level is present?

[@joelarson3528]

If you have bugs migrating around your shop like dam dude wth... is that really a thing...c’mon really?

[@StumpyNubs]

You don't think there are folks who work in garages and sheds? "c'mon really?"

[@brucemartin5510]

I HAVE A QUESTION, STUMPY! Which matches better to plywood, such as walnut or maple plywood, when adding solid wood material for trim? Air dried, or kiln dried? You might think kiln dried but it seems that different trees react slightly differently to different finishes? No?

[@maxctoo8987]

I wouldn’t trust myself 😆

[@joeminocchi2947]

I plan to make my first epoxy table with cherry wood that I slabbed and dried myself. I was planning to dry that via air dry in my basement with a dehumidifier to around 10%. Would you recommend going to the 6-9% you mentioned in your video? The end product will be 2” thick.

[@Psychlist1972]

o/ Air Dried. Kiln Dried. ' Depot left it outside, so it's still all bowed to me. o/ :)

[@hassanal-mosawi6049]

Thanks for sharing that