The Inns & Taverns of Old Glasgow

From Glasgow Cross, the streets of old Glasgow spread out like the strands of a spider's web; heading east along the Gallowgate towards the East Port; south down Saltmarket to the River Clyde; east along Trongate and Argyle Street in the direction the city was spreading; and north up the High Street towards the Bishop's Castle and the cathedral. This was the old Glasgow, its streets lined with quaint medieval buildings whose architecture was at one time compared favourably with the more fashionable towns and cities of England.
And in those streets, closes, wynds and back courts sat any number of inns and taverns, some frequented by famous travellers of the day, like Robert Burns and James Boswell. Inns like the Saracen's Head Inn, the Black Bull, the Buck's Head and The Star, along with taverns with quaint olde worlde names like The Sun, The Goose, The Anchor and the Black Boy.
But then the Industrial Revolution arrived and Glasgow's population grew. The backlands that sat behind the main thoroughfares become overcrowed. The resultant increase in insanitary conditions and criminal activity meant that the city's fathers had to take action. Those slums had to go.
But it wasn't just the slums.
The city improvements that sought to tackle these issues in the 1870s and 1890s saw vast areas of Glasgow, in the streets in and around The Cross, more or less raised to the ground. And with this blanket demolition the character of old Glasgow had gone.
No more would these streets rival the streets in places like Edinburgh's old town. The city's medieval character was obliterated, along with all the inns and taverns that were part and parcel of Glasgow.
In this video we explore the streets and wynds of Glasgow, and examine how things were in the old days, before the upheaval of city improvements. And in doing so we discover a few pockets of the old city that have managed to survive.

[@EdExploresScotland]

🔷🔷IMPORTANT NOTE: PLEASE SWITCH THE 'STABLE VOLUME' SETTING OFF, SO YOU HEAR THE VIDEO AS I INTENDED, WITH THE MUSIC (ESPECIALLY AT THE END) LOUDER THAN GENERAL SPEECH. THANK YOU.🔷🔷

[@Urbexy]

With default settings, it all appeared to work well for me.

[@thomasmcloney1437]

Thanks again ed. As a ex Glaswegian ifound your video quite fascinating. It shows us what history we have lost. You mentioned your liking of stone, I've always found drystane dykes to be something to admire. Best wishes from Oz.

[@jhenderson1644]

All fine for me too

[@EdExploresScotland]

@@Urbexy - I find that with Stable Volume setting on, which I think it is as default, a lot of compression/limiting is applied which squashes the music to a reduced volume and dynamic that I'm not happy with. As a musician, having the sounds at the level that I set when editing the video is important to me, although I understand why KZbin and other platforms might want to level out all sounds, whether speech or music.

[@feenrob]

What is “stable volume”?

[@scotspie501douglas7]

without guys like you our city history will be gone

[@EdExploresScotland]

That's very kind. Thank you.

[@bar10ml44]

Thank you. Born Glasgow 1954. Immigrated to Australia 1964. Still have many memories. Visiting my aunt and uncles stalls at the Barras. My dad playing drums at the Barrowland. Kelvin Hall carnival. Queens Park, my aunt lived in Albert Avenue, we at Fourth Street Pollockshields. I can still remember steam trains and I loved going into Glasgow Central Station. Very warm memories of visiting my grandma in Maryhill. She had a small cosy flat with a tiny kitchen. She used to scrub my neck at the sink thinking I was dirty but I had a darker complexion. Big treat was her serving me porridge in 2 dishes so it would cool quicker. The night we left Glasgow for Southampton seems like moments ago. As we pulled out my Grandma was running after the train. Her youngest daughter was leaving and they never saw each other again. My poor mum broke down and dad took my brother and I out of the compartment. I still have my cousin in Glasgow with his extended family. He was the only son of my dad's sister, my aunty Dot. Visiting their flat in Newlands Road, there was always much laughter between my dad and his sister. I had no idea what they were on about but it was fun and I bet a bit naughty. They are all gone and I won't be far behind. I love Glasgow. Came back in 2012 but circumstances brought me to London but if I had a choice I'd definitely choose Glasgow.

[@Urbexy]

Nicely put together. It's crazy to see the different ways Glasgow and Edinburgh evolved. Glasgow gave itself a clean slate and started over whilst Edinburgh kept its skeleton and built around it.

[@EdExploresScotland]

That's a good way of putting it.

[@matildamartin2811]

Only because they were stopped in their tracks by someone with a bit common sense who realised if a roadway was built across the Royal Mile, it would be gone forever and lose a fortune in tourism.

[@lewis8423]

Love Glasgow. Magical place. ❤❤❤

[@FXSTB-i]

I used to love coming to Glasgow as a teuchter and 'haein a pint' in an old Glasgow bar. Tragically now, it's changed beyond recognition and stepping out of Central station is an eye opener. I'm being charitable at that.

[@Carol......]

In what way has it changed so badly ?

[@FXSTB-i]

@ Litter, graffiti, run down buildings, people sleeping rough and beggars for a start. First thing visitors by train see. It's embarrassing.

[@MrsFlintstone-q5r]

Its a shitehole now! My daughters can no longer go out drinking abd dancing at the weekends like we used to. Far too dangerous. On the few occasions they did , not only can no one puck them up due to ULeZ shite but the taxis are driven by foreigners. My daughters are well behaved degree educated beatiful women and these foreigners HASSLE THEM! I have been walking home to the south side since I was 17, 2 years ago at the age of 56 I started walking home as my husband was running late ( now he couldn't come to get me!) , before I reached the Gorbals I was approached by TWO foreigners, one trying to hold my hand and one asking my name.I was terrified, I just kept walking and luckily my husband came screeching across the road and chased them. THATS WHATS CHANGED !

[@FXSTB-i]

@ No point in getting all offended because your city centre is manky.

[@paulghurst1]

thanks ed love your old pub vids would love too go with you one day on a wander keep well and look forward too more wish you would do old knightswood and temple ect

[@landbright6313]

Fascinating Ed, more power to you. I feel a pint coming on.

[@jimfrater8225]

Thanks, please keep making these excellent videos.

[@geoffreyruzgar1367]

We used to call the Saracen's Head, the "Sorry Heid" I had many a wee hauf in there! Thanks for the nostalgia.

[@Sandy-j9b4x]

I hear the religion of Peace is protesting the name.

[@geoffreyruzgar1367]

@@Sandy-j9b4x elhamdülillah

[@moraymac2922]

Thank you - I enjoyed seeing the old sketches and the Annan photographs.

[@stephencoyle345]

Great stuff Ed. I thoroughly enjoyed your video. You have made effective use of the available sources, including the old maps and photographs.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers Stephen.

[@thomasmcloney1437]

Thanks again ed.pity so much was swept away. But that ws really interesting. Hope you enjoyed your pint.best wishes from Oz.

[@user-oi9yy4zz3k]

Wonderful research Ed, really enjoy your content.

[@jim_dubhglas]

Great research and field work, Eddy. Another interesting insight that is both intriguing and saddening at the same time. All the best fella!

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers Jim.

[@nsholk]

Lovely work Ed! Love your use of the NLS maps. Keep up the great work!

[@EdExploresScotland]

Many thanks.

[@jimfrater8225]

Thanks

[@EdExploresScotland]

Many thanks Jim.

[@imminentdisaster]

Thanks Ed. Need to visit the Horseshoe Drury street. Used to lunch there when I worked at Gilt Edge carpets Argyle St. 1968

[@EdExploresScotland]

Horeshoe's still a stunning old pub.

[@annabellamarston448]

Thanks for the tour Ed. My grandfather ( died in 1905) and his 2 friends worked in the Sarry Heid) from 1893- 1904 .

[@Lynnthomason45]

Nice tour Eddy. Thanks for sharing. Lynn in Naples FL 😎

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers Lynn.

[@cosximxaxfan]

Great wee video that Ed , only thing missing wis a pie wi your beer

[@alexmcintyre6353]

Pie peas and a pint.

[@judithmargret5972]

I live 8nAustralia,and spent my childhood years in Granville NSW. I know we have a lot of English heritage, was surprised the number of street names we used from Scotland. I lived in Clyde St, and The Trongate was the next street running parallel. Interesting meaning of The Trongate, and a name I never saw anywhere else except in your video. Interesting videos thank you.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers Judith. All the best to Australia.

[@hscshorts3860]

Thanks Edd recently retired your giving me lots of ideas for days out . 👍

[@EdExploresScotland]

The world is your oyster. Whatever that means. Get out there!

[@nicholastimms]

Thanks for your time thanks for sharing...

[@margaretwallaces3625]

That's a beautiful painting by Andrew Donaldson (19:12mins). Wish it had survived. I Loved this journey & flashback: Love Robbie Burns too. ❤Thank you. I'm always checking out old photos of where I lived: reminiscing on my Childhood. People & Streets, Courts & Entrys all gone, all gone. Miss the Good grounded People.

[@jocky2]

Very informative, Thanks for teaching us about these old times , next time I visit Glasgow I'll know better what I am looking at. Always enjoy your videos and look forward to the next one, meanwhile I'll look at some of your older ones. ps , oh oh Eddy not far from 11,000 subscribers

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers guys.

[@utopia3161]

LOVE YOUR VIDEOS ED, KEEP THEM UP.

[@ToniLouttit]

Really, really found the video so interesting Eddy, I’m a huge lover of stone too , and old bricks . Made me smile when you spoke about “Drinking Dens “ remember The Albert bar , & Dizzy Lizzies ! Liked the music too touch of Lamentetal Drama . Toni

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers Toni. Some great memories of Dizzy Lizzies; small tubs of muscles in brine and women dancing on tables. Awesome! When I'm through in Edinburgh I often pass the old pub in search of memories, but it seems shut much of the time these days. Even the tenement we all stayed in has been demolished.

[@RPMcMurphy-k9l]

Used to frequent the “auld man’s pubs in the 70s the hangman’s rest Riggs bar the oriental the Angus bar and the mitre thanks Ed for jolting my memory

[@EdExploresScotland]

I was in the Hangman's Rest a few times. Pretty basic bar, if I recall.

[@RPMcMurphy-k9l]

@@EdExploresScotlandthey all were nothing fancy about them full of “characters “

[@troutbumhobo]

great stuff Ed, you should do one about all the auld estates and villages that became Glasgow, I like these themed videos ... I'm surprised you never mentioned 'Bad Whisky'.... cheers

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers. Yes, the word 'shebeen' and 'Bad Whisky' certainly go together.

[@johndevine174]

Very interesting video. There was an old pub I used to frequent back in the 1970s called the Old Eagle Inn, which was part of St Enoch station in Howard Street. Sadly, it was demolished in 1977 when the old station and hotel were swept away as part of a modernisation process. In 1857 there was an Eagle Hotel and Eagle Lane in Maxwell Street north of Howard Street. According to 'Old Glasgow Pubs', a stagecoach service ran from the Tontine Hotel Alloa to the Eagle Inn Glasgow in 1790, which would suggest that the inn could actually be much older.

[@IanDonnelly-iq8cf]

Another enjoyable vid Ed . The last and by far the best watering hole I had the pleasure of working in was the Oriental Bar Hutchison Street just off the Trongate. A wonderful wee pub. It is no longer open. Shame. Cheers again, Ian

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thanks Ian.

[@junejackson7958]

Fascinating memories great research and camera effects 😊

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers June.

[@roundgreenthing]

Thank you Ed.

[@wojciechturek1601]

Another great video I like to watch up on the buildings going through from g33 where I stay to work at Govan It’s always mix of feelings because so many is devastated and very little well kept

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers Wojciech.

[@Balloon_Juice]

Great video Ed. Thank you.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers.

[@donaldmcleod-vm5go]

Great stuff Ed 👍

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thanks Donald.

[@eileanvm]

What a treat. Lovely film to watch, with so many smooth transitions and your wonderful bespoke musical soundtrack. I love the map that shows what appear to be tramlines on Argyle Street. Is that map available online? I often wonder how many of the older buildings we now miss were a routine part my grandmother's (as a young girl's ) Glasgow? One GM was born in 1898. The other I'd have to go look up to see when. I spent much of my own childhood being dragged around by mother and aunts as they shopped all around the old centre of the city. I recall having to step carefully across roads without losing a shoe in Horse Manure, or turning a little ankle on a deep steel tram run. It's fascinating to see familiar streets as they were in the 18th Century. Nice one Ed.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thanks Eilean. The National Library of Scotland have an awesome online map facility. It is simply out of this world, and whoever was responsible for it needs to be formally recognised in some way. This link will take you to an 1890s map of the centre of Glasgow, showing those tram-lines. From this map you can explore further, with other areas, dates and map makers. Have fun. maps.nls.uk/view/82891761

[@eileanvm]

@@EdExploresScotland Thanks for the link 🙏

[@ArcAudios77]

Eddy, Thanks firstly - great watch & listen. Appreciated. Detail & Snapshots / Fades with the Drawings, Photos & Ordnance Survey Maps giving great awareness of the re-development. Regards & best wishes from me.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thank you.

[@egallagher41]

Brilliant ED, so much history (and poverty). Glad the poverty has gone (ha ha) but some of the history is still there, thank you for the guide🤠

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thanks guys.

[@ultimatesoccershow]

Lovely show, Thank You SO!

[@joanrose3826]

Thanks eddy

[@jimmitchell5629]

Another nice wee video Ed x I love seeing the artworks of old Glasgow.

[@SlickRick47]

What a great video about oor wee old toon.

[@ZenoWatson]

Brilliant, as always Ed!

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers Zeno.

[@violetanndoherty6872]

A very proud Glaswegian. Born in the 60s and partied in the 80s ( yes big perm days) love my big bold brash city.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Oh the joy of those 70s big hairs! 👍

[@MaggievilleShortsleeves]

Thank you for your videos. They are very helpful to me. As an adoptee, I have recently started researching my birth family. My journey on your channel has taken me from the carpet factory where mother and grandmother worked. Then off to your Monklands videos where my grandfather was an iron worker and gg and ggg were miners. Gggg grandfather became a carter there aged 60. He'd previously been a spirit dealer in chapel st Airdrie for a year or 2 and had moved there from Stockwell street where he was listed in 1859 as spirit dealer in the shop at 17 and living in 19. I'm hoping your off to Perth soon 🤞😇

[@EdExploresScotland]

Glad to have been a small help. Always relish a visit to Perth. Take care.

[@johnnymac26]

Brilliant mate sat in that very seat once while back great work this is real history real people need

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers Johnny.

[@levistubbs8949]

Still drink in the tolbooth, great old pub !

[@EdExploresScotland]

Absolutely. And sitting in the very heart of Glasgow.

[@NilDesperandum777]

Brilliant video, Ed. Best YT video I've seen in a while. Will copy and paste and send on to friends and family. Cheers.

[@thetimetraveller6550]

Most excellent video Ed thank you for all you do.

[@flozora2569]

Great content, thoroughly enjoyed it. Look forward to more.

[@brycehermon5939]

Another excellent, informative video thanks Ed. You certainly do your research which adds to the quality of your productions.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers Bryce.

[@desperatedan279]

Absolutely fantastic. Thank you

[@lewisb465]

love this mate thank you for this

[@robertmacintyre8065]

Great video, Eddie. Agree that it was such a shame that the mediaeval architecture/street layout was obliterated.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers Robert. I suppose the main thoroughfares still exist, but that general olde worlde feel has vanished.

[@muckylady]

Thanks very much for this. ♥️ Xxx

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers Carolyn.

[@terrijones1167]

I enjoyed this very much. Thanks.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thanks Terry.

[@anne5surf]

Hi Ed, I could never put my finger on why Edinburgh is such a different vibe from Glasgow. Of course now that you've pointed out that Glasgow only has a couple of Medieval buildings left it's obvious. I love both cities. Thanks for another superb video

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thank you.

[@sheilabrown4939]

Thanks Ed.

[@allonesame6467]

Wonderful presentation and music!

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thank you.

[@eddiemcwilliams1888]

Britannia Music Hall (Panoptican) was called the Pots n' Pans. My grandmother sang 'Danny Boy' as a teenage girl on that stage. It was a well-known meeting place for the Irish who fled the blight and unemployment

[@stevenweasel2678]

Very interesting

[@stevenweasel2678]

P.S / Re the 2 pubs in the `Back Wynd` are run by Spirit dealers and carry No typical pub / sign/ Name. This was often the Norm with Spirit dealers. These pubs often just displayed the Surname of the licensee / publican e.g Camerons / or ` Camerons Vaults ` they were often referred to in Licensing records as a ` BOARD INN ` or on 19 th Century O.S Mapping as ` Spirit Vaults `. P.S apart from being Full , License they likely had carry out Bottle & Jug ` Off ` License trade

[@stevenweasel2678]

Hi Ed, Ive just realised, you were the Author (I think ) of Scotish Brewery Trademarks ? I did have a copy of your book some 20 years ago, but Lost it, in a house move. You are a capable and keen Historian. Best regards

[@MoragMcGuigan]

At 14.56 you are standing outside a business that started in 1860. Was lovely to see it again.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Many years ago, when I was digging for old bottles, I had my metal probing rod made there.

[@MoragMcGuigan]

@@EdExploresScotland you probably met my father, David Sillars.

[@EdExploresScotland]

I'm not sure, but it was a blacksmiths back then.

[@brianconnelly7823]

Another great video Ed!

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thanks Brian.

[@gfg890]

Great video, as always Ed. How I wish we could go back there and see what it was like. Some substantial buildings reduced to eye sores but I guess some of these old narrow streets and back lanes at times could be a fire hazard and pretty difficult for emergency vehicles to get down etc, whether horse and cart or motorised.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thanks Gary. Much of that overcrowding had to be removed, but we surely could have saved the buildings fronting the main streets and retained the character of old Glasgow.

[@gfg890]

@EdExploresScotland yes it's such a pity that the building which used to contain the original Saracens Head Pub is now a single storey instead of what looked like an impressive frontage. When you see the old buildings with wooden bannisters down the staircases or thatched roofs etc, you can see how difficult it would be to maintain those but as you say, so many of these frontages looked great.

[@johnmccarron]

My first school was Dovehill Primary top of the lane Just up from the coal/ wagon yard, signal house, where Kentigern released the doves and preached. I lived in in Bain Street corner of Stevenson Street on the Calton around from the Barras.

[@dougie6886]

Welcome back ed

[@bertifrasilmeye995]

HI, I wonder what year white lightning was available in The Saracens Head... if it was called that! Atb PS. the Carbeth inn (makes me sad ) must be older, as many on the coach road inns.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Yes, the Carbeth Inn would be an incentive to do some walking in that area. I wonder if it will ever open up again. Probably be a house before long.

[@bertifrasilmeye995]

@@EdExploresScotlandHi, It is a pity, I loved that place,"ale steak pie"mmm, and watching the Kestrels and more on a summers day, and the burn bubbling away in the distance no longer The Allander water, but the Lecher burn. Atb

[@tonyward2667]

White tornado in the sarri Head !!

[@Kal-ir9ze]

Great video. Even made me late picking up the wife lol.

[@harryblack5041]

Another fyne video, Eddie. Interestingly- you show p.14 of Jone's Directory of 1789 highlighting the Sun Inn. At the foot of p.16, you'll note the entry for The Black Boy, Gallowgate. The Simpson sketches and watercolours are rather pleasing. Many years ago I had an old Glasgow museums publication of them. I believe the originals are light sensitive and are stored in light/ temperature conditions now? Wee pubs long lamented- The Rigg Bar, in Candleriggs: The Mitre Bar, The Fox and Hounds and The Hangmans Rest .. All 5 mins walking distance from each other. Tally Ho... Harri

[@EdExploresScotland]

Cheers Harry. That 1789 directory is a fascinating glimpse of the past. I popped into the Hangman's rest a few times when it was there. If I remember correctly the exterior was whiteish with wooden Tudory bits of wood. The interior was fairly plain.

[@ireneprobert2254]

That was great. Thought ud have went to the old tavern at central bridge. I believe thats 1 of oldest buildings left in glasgow

[@MrsFlintstone-q5r]

Love your videos Ed ❤ May i ask where you bought your regatta jacket? Think my husband would love it. X

[@EdExploresScotland]

Hallo there. I've had that jacket that long I can't remember where I bought it. Some of the outdoor shops might be a good starting place. Or maybe the Regatta website. Good luck.

[@Lykelly74]

I always wonder when these buildings were constructed and who built many of them.Building works that can’t be repeated today.

[@petercullen9880]

My grandmother was a Mc Ginley of Glasgow pubs. I believe her father left Co Donegal to pick potatoes as a teenager, and owned 23 pubs by the time he died.

[@richiec9077]

Talking about Robert Burns is it just me or is that his face showing in the brick work to the left hand side of Ed's face while he's talking at 15:00? Spooky or what 😢

[@EdExploresScotland]

I see what you mean. A bit strange.

[@borderlands6606]

The height of the gouges out of the wall, and the narrowness of the lanes suggests hand carts rather than motorised traffic were responsible for the damage. Difficult to say for certain but the marks are repeated, so not a single incident.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Yes, it's an interesting thing. Reminded me of the rope marks in the cut of junction canal video.

[@Sandy-j9b4x]

My mother was born in glasgow i 1906. The family later moved to Motherwell. Efore immigrating to the US. i wish i had asked her questions.

[@thmasblmer]

you should have a show on the TV

[@johntait491]

As the old Adam McNaughton song goes: "Oh where is the Glasgow where I used tae stey, The white wally closes done up wi' pipe cley; Where ye knew every neighbour frae first floor tae third, And tae keep your door locked was considered absurd". 😕

[@DAGO58]

Smashin Ed. Time stands still for nae man.

[@MegaLochgelly]

Thank you. It really is a disappearing city.

[@katiewray2525]

The Pope's Eye would've been my tavern lol!

[@christopherkerr1693]

Is the Cathedral not medieval?

[@EdExploresScotland]

Of course it is. There are one or two medieval survivors in the city.

[@teebobeebo4667]

Quaint olde slums....

[@stephengraham1153]

At the other end of the UK, Plymouth survived council plans to renovate the city and retained much of the charm that Glasgow had lost. Unfortunately for Plymouth, Hitler had other ideas and in the post-war years the bombed out centre of Plymouth was replaced with a concrete jungle of shops. Like Glasgow, Plymouth lost so much.

[@matildamartin2811]

Buildings had so much character then, not like modern square boring boxes.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Absolutely.

[@davedoogan6650]

Nae Inn's just walls and maps

[@dunnyboy3444]

Shame whats happened to the toon its dying a death the immigration has sky rocketed too number of homelessness is tragic the death of sauchiehall street after the Charles rennie macintosh art gallery burned down then suspiciously burned down again after an expensive renovation being carried out an inside job to steal funds filtered most likely the state of sauchiehall street is the fault of the Scottish government the shops in Glasgow have declined the fort is now a better location to shop this is something worrying to the city's chances of a bright future

[@jamessinclair1826]

Interesting but incidental music all wrong.

[@EdExploresScotland]

I did think some accordion-based music might be more appropriate, but you can't keep an old rocker down!

[@Dss322]

Very interesting mate, well done.

[@MrMaharg65]

Great wander around the toon Ed. Well Done as always 👏 (And you end up in The Clutha/Victoria Bar which is where you can catch Trident on 7th Dec 🫵🏼) 🫡

[@EdExploresScotland]

Absolutely. Cheers Graham.

[@gordonkilgour805]

Surprised you didn`t mention the Scotia Bar, one of the oldest.

[@hscshorts3860]

Thanks

[@EdExploresScotland]

Many thanks.

[@alastairfinn1305]

Brilliant video Ed. Thank you.

[@EdExploresScotland]

Thanks Alastair.