'The Move'. More equipment inside the cabinet. Will it all work out?

It was time for the MPPT controller to move in its final destination, from the workbench into the cabinet. Cabling these things is always the exciting part and I try my best to make it look nice but also functional. Working with stiff cables is always challenging.
The question arised, if I need a breaker or isolator between MPPT and inverter. What do you think?
We are finally getting there and I have to keep going because the battery is now disconnected during the 'move'.
Please subscribe and join me on my journey of the Off-Grid Garage!
For more information, please check out my website with links to all materials, devices and products: off-grid-garag...
EVE LF280 LiFePO4 cells 3.2V/280Ah: off-grid-garag...
Solar, Controllers, Inverters and accessories: off-grid-garag...
Batteries, chargers and accessories: off-grid-garag...
Cables, inverters and electronics: off-grid-garag...
Tools, analysers and testers: off-grid-garag...
DISCLAIMER
By watching the video, you agree:
All electrical work must be carried out as per your local laws, rules and regulations. Installations and setups shown in my videos are for test and demonstration purposes only and may not satisfy regulatory requirements. Installation are temporary, for the above purpose and for making these videos. Most electrical work is not for DIY purpose and must be conducted by a trained and qualified person. Please always check your local regulations!
Any liability for conducting your own work, in particular, any consequential damages arising therefrom, shall be excluded.

[@richardtoth1273]

If it get too hot in the metal box - Fan as you mentioned - probably not code - Open door and use Fly screen - Keep the Red backs and flies out whilst ventilating !

[@dd9332]

Instead of having the meter feeds terminate in an unconnected box, consider having a meter fed outlet beside your box installed so you've got the ability to power things (Like your new battery charger) when you need to swap out a component or you've got an extended period of unexpected low battery due to weather, etc.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I thought about this for a while. Let's see how I go as I expect the battery is been rather full all the time at this stage. Not too much load inside the garage at the moment.

[@dd9332]

I went back and forth on suggesting it as well, you can probably use an extension lead or two from the house if it were an absolute nightmare and battery powered devices weren't cutting it :)

[@w3bb0y]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia why not use a changeover / transfer switch instead of an end terminal? That way you can use solar for garage lights/ sockets but at the flick of a switch in an emergency you can put those lights and sockets back to mains fed. Only like £30 for an enclosed transfer switch and gives you both options of power sources :)

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

@@w3bb0y but I also would need to take out the M.E.N link inside the inverter which connects N and PE. The all in one units do this automatically with a relay depending if they run from battery or grid power.

[@KD2HJP]

Now, you need to open Andy's Australian Solar Off Grid Garage Frog Tour company

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Chasing them for you...

[@jamest.5001]

Andy and Kermet's off grid toad service!

[@KD2HJP]

🐸

[@bimodal7195]

Lennie B makes a strong safety related point. Here in Canada regulations require indication of wire function within 6 inches of each termination point of the wire, either black tape or black paint in this instance for a negative conductor.

[@williambuehler2784]

Looks good, I use DC breakers between my charge controllers and the battery bank, give the ability to isolate the charge controller and servers as a protection measure.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks.

[@kevinmills5293]

Agreed. I’ve found it very useful having an isolator which allows you to service/change the charge controller without having to shut down the whole system.

[@andreiapostolache3487]

If the DC braker turn off and the controler hawe no batery conected and solar is still on u Will probably fry the controler or the DC stuff u got on the load output with the máximum voltage of the array . Soo my opinión is if u whant u can put a Big DC switch for maintanace but no fuses if they trip the majority of the charge controlers Will be dmaged

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

@@andreiapostolache3487 I tested this already in one of my other videos, the controller can cope with solar only and no battery. Others cannot do that and you're generally right...

[@andreiapostolache3487]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia yeah maybe for a bit of time is ok but i dont think the controler like the open circuit voltaje all day :p duno maybe this one hawe protection, the true is do u rly ned dat protection ?

[@defjamsgreen]

Now you’re coming, now you’re coming , you’re really getting it together like your off grid garage want to be . Much props to you .

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Hahahaha, thanks 😁

[@peterrock2838]

Great video! I think if you put in a breaker between the MPPT charge controller and the Inverter, you could potentially shut off that breaker before the solar panel breakers which could damage the MPPT (according to what I read). Several people have said they can't kill their MPPT, but I would not want to test out that theory.

[@teardowndan5364]

The PPT controller is designed for less than 40A, your battery fuse is something like 80A, so I'd definitely put a fuse or breaker between the PPT and batteries to limit damage in case the PPT's output fails shorted.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Yep, good point.

[@henvan8737]

The solar charge cables should really terminate in the battery enclosure. What happens if you turn off the battery supply with the solar still supplying power to the inverter?

[@marccohen5579]

It really looks that good.

[@guntherbluml8069]

The circuit breakers are usually used to protect the cabling not the device. In German they are called Leitungsschutzschalter, which explains their purpose better. The breaker current rating has to fit to the wiring after the breaker to avoid e.g. the isolation from melting in high duration high load conditions. Additiinally they also do shirt circuit protection.

[@jamesdk5417]

Thanks for another great show. Maybe n the future you can figure out how to make a switch box to go between mains and solar for the rare times you may need to.

[@james10739]

Black for both doesn't bother me but red for both does

[@neliosamch3195]

It can be spray painted black or use black tape around it.

[@ebenwaterman5858]

8 hours. No surprise there. It takes a lot of time to wire a panel right AND neat. Nice to see your spirits high. :)

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks 👍

[@andrewradford3953]

Can't wait to see the final result next episode. Do we find out who shot Jr? Will there be a twin screw BP for the earth, will Snubby McSolerfaceiron make an appearance? Stay tuned!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Man, I could film all day long. I need to keep these video short, hahaha. Next instalment coming soon...

[@james10739]

You have probably already done it but you should probably put in a transfer switch or some way to easily switch back to your mains power if something happens

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

There will be no mains. It's an off-grid system.

[@james10739]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia ya but what if something stops working or you just have to service something then you have no lights or power

[@rickcooperjr62864]

I advise a breaker between the charge controller and battery but around double the rating you plan to feed thru it on positive side this way if something goes very wrong it will kick out and this gives you a easy disconnect for your power to the charge controller from battery.

[@sebastienmuniz9788]

Great work ! Maybe think of installing bus bars or a Victron Lynx for your connections to inverter

[@alanwood82]

Victron says there should be a protection device between charger and battery, but it is to protect the cable, as the charger has a fuse already on its output. As others have said it could be useful for isolation, but you do have control via Bluetooth.

[@jimhanty8149]

You seem to have an interesting life….. I wish I had stuff going that other people wanted to know about…cool channel…. Best of luck to ya…

[@Adlay_Eetswah]

I am Super excited to see the next video Andy. 🤞🏽everything goes to plan good luck 👍🏽

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Fingers crossed!

[@Aconda]

I really love your videos. Wish you had been my neighbor and friend. You're also funny. Yes, I also have boxes with lots of different cords and cables that I have collected over the years. Hopefully one of there will be used from time to time. Greetings from Scandinavia.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Oh thank you very much!

[@davidchristensen1219]

Very interesting episode. A few comments: I'd be concerned about heat in the cabinet. Once you're charging at max capacity of your CC, it will put off quite a bit of heat and your inverter has that potential too when it is getting to greater than 50% capacity. You should put some black heat shrink on both sides of the negative cables (currently red.) You should also include a breaker rated for your cable from the charge controller. Look at it like this, the breaker/fuse is there to protect the cable. You have a cable (unprotected) from the CC to the inverter. If something went very wrong, that cable could melt and/or cause an arc/fire. For my system, everything that provides/draws power, has a fuse/breaker in between. I also incorporated 600A bus bars to connect all of my batteries, CC, inverter and battery monitor. Makes it also easy to expand later. You can check out my system (on KZbin: JC/DC in the AZ) if you like. I'm using Schneider equipment and am in the middle of a HUGE battery upgrade to 64x 272Ah LIshen cells (1088Ah total) for my 48V system.

[@lennieadi]

Great work Andy. I'd put black tape or shrink on the negative cable for extras safety in case a third party needs to work on your system. Love the videos as always. Keep up the good work.🇬🇧🇯🇲

[@jamess1787]

I've been waiting! Hurray! Super excited for part 2!!!

[@magicmanspaz]

i have one of those crimpers and use it a lot. i find that i need to use the die one step down from the cable mm2 size as the die size matching the wire pulls out. its not a perfect crimper but its cheap and does make a solid crimp when i use the one size below die.

[@harrymuurling2742]

it's always handy just one breaker extra for security because of lightning an extra protection and less damage. Tip why not put some black shrinks on the red negative

[@andreiapostolache3487]

For lighning u hawe to put an overvoltage protection u got dat and is cheap i recoment It. Also i wana Say why no black stink the negativo or even use some black tape

[@alexandergunda8916]

Andy, again a great video! THX! On your AC side or you use solid wires or you use cable terminals (as you correctly used on the DC) - remember what amount of power will go through them (maybe even use a 2,5 mm2 cable, just to be on the safe side) Also the idea of conecting all the components directly on the terminals of the inverter is not a good one. I would sugest using two busbars where all the 3 components (solar charge controler, battery and inverter) meet - it would be much easier and safer to handle. You remember your statement about the missing cheap pice of plastic between the two terminals on the inverter....

[@michaelbouckley4455]

Instead of bus bar, one wire could be a big bolt terminal contact breaker

[@sreekumarUSA]

030821/0511h PST- 2311h Brisbane Thank you. Relentless hard work, indeed. Very happy to see the work in progress. Eagerly awaiting the final connection and execution. Stay safe and 73s...

[@jamest.5001]

I think I'd make a screen door for the enclosure, something like a 1"x1" wood frame with rubber on the outside to make a deal, then screen on the inside , then it can fit snugly allow cooling, also keeping the critters out! The the door can be closed . If needed!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Yeah, I think I need a bit more force to cool this thing down. Running 2.5kW and it gets quite warm inside... Outside temps of 35° does not help.

[@jamest.5001]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia yeah it gets up to about 35° here too, but it's 35°F , just above frozen! Haha but summer is coming, it can get about 40-45° or 105°f with about 80-90% humidity at times, especially when the temperature climbed to around 100° then rains for a hour then the sun is back out, it's miserable! But for now it's just above freezing, it was 20°F last night!!

[@rendark419]

Das mit den Kabelfarben würde ich aber noch ändern. Rot nur für Plus und Schwarz nur für Minus! Und für den Zusammenschluß von Laderegler, Inverter und Batterie würde ich Stromsammelschienen nehmen! Ansonsten sieht das sehr gut aus! Weiter so!

[@paial]

You need protection (breaker/fuse) if you go down in ampacity. Ex. If your cable from the bms is capable of 50A, if should have your bms set (or a breaker/fuse) for 50A as close to the source as possible. If the 50A ampacity is kept all the way to the end, no other protection required. But if you go down in cable size (most common reason for reduced ampacity, but also: combine multiple cables together, put them in a thight conduit, pass them in some hot compartment, etc, anything that prevent the cable from exchanging heat with the environment) than you need another protection, let's say 30 or 40 A before you make this new circuit.

[@dietermaes2647]

I use always a bus bar and using a Fuse for every wire that leaves the bussbars. Between battery and busbar a Fuse. Between Bussbar and MPPT a fuse Between inverter and bussbar a fuse If u using More than 1 battery packs also different fuses

[@jimhanty8149]

Me too… always on every power wire…if it can carry power it will have a high quality fuse..

[@toastiesvanbuild4644]

I’m still waiting for my 280ah cells to arrive, I’ll do a video when I build my 12v bank... it’s so exciting isn’t it 😁😁😁😁👊🤣

[@davidgreen9957]

You're doing a fine job!

[@AQUATICSLIVE]

My guess is that each component has fuses inside, something to check for sure but essentially you want something to stop a short if it happens. I opened up each piece in my system and verified they have fuses and inside my charge controller, I reduced the size of them so they blow faster if something happens.

[@cowboyrolo7892]

nice job, super excited to see you throw the switch !!!!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Can't wait!

[@andreiapostolache3487]

Anoter nice video keep going, 3:07 i hawe 10amp and with 240v ac just tripted one time afer 2 hours of 3kw continiusly, depends of the curve or the protección It trip faster or slow i got the slow ones and is working fine 10amp 240vac for 3 kw

[@amudlifecrisis]

I'd definitely put an appropriately sized fuse between the SCC and Inverter., is that wire you used the correct size? I think mine is 2/0. Nice clean work. Your enthusiasm is infectious.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

The wire size is correct for the 35A from the MPPT, but yeah, the it conencts to the 35mm of the battery. There should be a breaker.

[@PRAGEETHKARUNADHEERA]

There is no reason to have an additional breaker there between charge controller and battery. It will just introduce additional resistance.

[@andig69]

Again a nice video! I think a circuit breaker between battery and charge controller would be good for protection of the 10mm2 wires (Leitungsschutz). What says the manual from the charge controller to this? Have fun with the frogs!😂

[@bostjantrancar9605]

Excellent work....👍

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks a lot 😊

[@DavidLouthan]

So cool I'm 1st to watch! Looks interesting already, cheers 🍻 Andy

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks David! 🍻

[@budmartin3344]

13:27 I think you forget to put on Black tape or Black shrink tubing on the Red wire that goes to the Negative terminal of the SCC, you did put the black shrink tubing on the other end that goes to the Negative terminal of the Inverter. May be use black wire instead to reduce confusion? BTW, what is the plan for ventilation for the cabinet? Looking forward to the next video.

[@NathanKrick]

The use of red cable was explained (it was what was available), but I fully agree that a piece of black shrink tubing should have been placed on the charge controller side in addition to the inverter side.

[@lennieadi]

@Nathan Krick. Or even black tape would suffice. Great work from Andy though. Love the videos.

[@NathanKrick]

@@lennieadi true, but I already saw the black shrink wrap used on the ring terminal, so unless he ran out, shrink wrap is much nicer long term than electrical tape.

[@gordonfoat8269]

Good progress😁

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks 😁

[@adon8672]

Still wondering why you bought a phoenix instead of a multiplus, quattro or even an easysolar.

[@richardtoth1273]

The multiplus II has a builtin Charger - It can be used as a UPS too with Automatic Transfer switch.

[@adon8672]

@@richardtoth1273 Exactly why I thought it would have been a better option.

[@ricardomarcelino8388]

Almost there. Great video, thank you!

[@richardowens9061]

Remember, the purpose of circuit breakers is to protect the wiring - not the devices. Therefore, there is no reason to install a circuit breaker between the solar charge controller and the batteries. You will never have sufficient current flowing that the wires you're using would be at risk. Furthermore, it is not advised to have the solar charge controller connected to solar panels but not to the batteries. For my system, I installed a relay that automatically disconnects the solar panels from the Victron 150/35 solar charge controllers whenever the system is turned off or when the batteries are not connected.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

The Victron MPPT can actually run the load without battery.

[@richardowens9061]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Consult your manual on the Victron Solar charge controller. They specify connecting the batteries before connecting the PV array. They also specify that you should never connect the charger to a grounded PV array.

[@neliosamch3195]

I use one 60A dc braker after each solar charger and connect inverter with #2/0 awg from the battery.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Makes sense.

[@neliosamch3195]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia EE aren't here to help, just to discourage diy from taking jobs away from them. A disclaimer note to follow safety and local electrical code is enough.

[@MrEddiekessler]

Hi Off-Grid Garage, Great series of films. You could try LED strip lights instead of the tube lights you have. Very cheap online and great light power and very few watts. Great Stuff. Eddie in Scotland

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Yes, I definitely have to upgrade that 100 year old lighting there at some stage. LED strips seem to shine in one direction only while this one lights up the whole garage equally. Thanks for your feedback and greetings to Scotland.

[@noelburns4512]

Watch all you vids Andy evenn bought a PHEV maybe all elect in couple of years. I installed a 48v 5000 VE for the charging remote house set up and car. Just wondering about cooling vent for the enclosure ? I drilled some hole in mine.

[@glenraymond2315]

With out a fuse those small link cables are not protected they are now the fuse. Now change the lights for L E D lights saving current draw on the batter's. Stay off grid!

[@JeremyAkersInAustin]

I would include the breaker after the MPPT. But not because there's any way the MPPT could push a dangerous amount of current but for the opposite reason: Remember that current isn't limited to flowing from the MPPT to the battery. It could potentially flow the other direction if something failed or there was some unexpected wire short. So if there was a short in the wire somehow between the MPPT and inverter you would essentially have a short circuit from your battery which could result in a massive amount of current. You'd want something to trip to protect those wires from over-current from the *battery* not from the MPPT. In fact to me it's more important to have protection on the battery side of the MPPT rather than the solar side. Solar panels are inherently current limited. They have a maximum "open circuit current" that they will never exceed under any circumstances (Unless our Sun somehow grew miraculously brighter/stronger). So if your panels max open circuit current is 35 amps and you put them on a 40 amp breaker/fuse: Even if there was a short circuit in your wiring that breaker/fuse would never trip. If there's a short on the battery side though: Then current from the battery itself could easily overwhelm wires and connections on the battery side of the MPPT. Some people think: "Well I already have a fuse between the battery and inverter, and I'm connecting the MPPT to the inverter terminals, so the MPPT should be protected by the same fuse" And while this is true: Most people are using heavier wire from the battery to inverter and then using a smaller wire to jump over to the MPPT since the current from the MPPT is much lower than the current to the inverter. So the 100A battery fuse will protect the wires to the inverter but the cables to the MPPT may not be able to handle 100A so having a smaller fuse/breaker would be needed there. Although it does look like you're using the same size wire from battery to inverter all the way to MPPT so in that case it wouldn't be "necessary" but it would still be nice to have a way to completely isolate power to the MPPT from both sides. Also: Victron specifically warns against using that type of wire. They call for using a wire with a much higher number of strands because the screw down clamps can't make good contact with that stiff wire that has so few strands. If you look at the PDF of the manual here: www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Manual-SmartSolar-charge-controller-MPPT-150-45-to-150-100--250-60-to-250-100-EN-NL-FR-DE-ES-SE.pdf On page 5 you'll see the warning I'm talking about.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

This is not in the 150/35 manual though. Only in the /45 and higher. But I will replace the cable anyways as I don't like it.

[@BajanAlan]

I heard u can get blades for those crimpers to cut 50mm2 able!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Interesting!

[@zarbonida]

Where is it possible to buy the blade?

[@BajanAlan]

@@zarbonida I dont know

[@randylenart9674]

Looks good one more video and you'll be done 🤓👍🇺🇸

[@jasondevine6014]

Yes fuse from charge controller to battery. What if charge controller shorts? Can your 10mm cable handle the fuse rating of your battery?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

The cable will be the fuse. Yes, you're right.

[@ahmadplastiq2067]

You should differentiate the wire by colour. RED = + VE , BLACK = - VE

[@JJLock]

You could have taken the back panel out of the box, mounted and wired everything on the bench and put the whole completed back panel back into the cabinet. But that would have been too easy 😄

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I did this for the inverter mounting bracket. I like to see how it looks like when inside the cabinet and what distances I have to the enclosure. Also, the fuses are already mounted at the top where I had to connect to.

[@habana7638]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia I would personally place a wooden mounting plate against the back wall in the cabinet instead of mounting everything directly to the steel conductive back wall, it is a mix of DC and AC equipment and make sure the wiring doesn't cross, but I do not know what the regulations say about this in AUS, I know the cabinet is grounded and maybe it's fine.. but above all safety first ..

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

@@habana7638 I don't think wood is an allowed material for these installations as it needs to be for resistant. The metal back panel is actually quite nice to work with. And, it's also another heatsink for the charge controllers as they are getting pretty hot.

[@NathanKrick]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia definitely follow local electrical code. In the US, a plywood backboard is used very commonly for mounting electrical components and meets code, but Australian code could be different. I agree about crossing DC and AC. The DC feed crossing the AC output from the inverter made me cringe a little. Everything is insulated and you should be fine, but it would have been better if your DC from the solar panels could have come in from the right side of the box. so you did not need to cross your DC power feed with the AC output. As it is, you might want to consider if you can put the DC power lines inside conduit so it is conduit crossing conduit.

[@tabineshhtc]

Great 👍🏽

[@JPHER217]

This the stuff! :) Only thing Andy i think if you manage to get some 4mm2 twin ferrules in the future would be abit tighter fit. The cream over the cherry so to say. Anyways keep it up.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I know what you mean. the 10mm terminal is very tight already and I had trouble getting both cables in. I pulled at it and it's bombenfest.

[@michaelbouckley4455]

Crimp pins make a better contact on the contact breaker terminals, too

[@SigmaWorksSW3D]

great work :)

[@BajanAlan]

While u r in the garage please leave the door to the box open so we can see the beautiful Victron machines!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

A glass door?

[@jamesbsa6450]

Off-grid Garage Andy, maybe a two way mirror door since we don't want the Victron to feel self conscious while we stare...

[@richardtoth1273]

the thick core cable not good for DC current. DC travels along the outside of the wire i heard. So swap it out buddy ! use the fine strands.

[@netpok]

Actually the skin effect affects AC current carrying capacity. Also 10mm2 cable is rated for 81A so the only thing I would change is marking the other end of the cable too with black heatshrink. Sources: www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/alternating-current/chpt-3/more-on-the-skin-effect www.cse-distributors.co.uk/cable/technical-tables-useful-info/table-4e1a/

[@NathanKrick]

That is only true for high frequency applications (and some edge use cases such as non-sinusoidal waves or magnetic fields, such as in high power electric motors). For 50 Hz / 60 Hz (typical home power usage), that is not the case. For typical home power use, solid is actually better because there is less resistance on a larger solid core wire than on stranded wire, and solid copper wire is generally cheaper. Another advantage is that there is no need to use wire ferrules or forks (unless you really want to) since you don't have to worry about strand breakage. Of course, solid copper wire would not work well when we need flexible wires (power wires for electronics/appliance, extension cords, etc) so normally solid wire is used in permanent installations (wiring in the walls, for example) and flexible stranded wire is used for anything not permanently installed. In this case, this is a permanent installation, so heavier gauge, solid wires is the way to go if you have to purchase wiring (if you already own stranded wire, there is nothing wrong with using it). For a 35A service, I'd use 8 AWG solid copper for all of those connections. While it is not as easy to work with, once you put the right bends in it, it makes for a very attractive and reliable permanent installation.

[@charliethewanderer6872]

Almost there. What is the cost ? LOL

[@greengooseman]

If you have a breaker between the SC and the battery and you accidentally shut it off before the PV input, you will fry your SC. *My first thoughts anyways.

[@angelguidesabbath]

That is a nice box. Do you have a link on where to get it?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

There is a link in the video description for that cabinet.

[@kennith.]

Great video again, lots of fun. The cabling is very neat. Thank you for sharing. Just a quick question. The power from the panels, why did you not bring them in on the right hand side of the panel/box and then have the inverter on the left and all the other equipment on the right. That way those stiff 10mm cables would not have to go under the 240V output cables.

[@dirkverhoest936]

please drill vent holes before you go forward. the inverter has to be vented. bug screen is a must. where is the froggies ???

[@henvan8737]

Two red DC cables may lead to an accident when you are not concentrating in the future.

[@MitchOfCanada]

Are you throwing thermostatic fans in bottom or side of your enclosure? the enclosure itself is a nice heatsink as well but you never know.

[@Jeffrey_Rodriguez]

cough ,,cough,, if I'll make it till then...... you never failed to make me laugh in every video,, keep the vids coming please

[@kaindub]

Andy looked at this video and saw a lot of errors. I have an interest in solar, I’m a licensed electrician in NSW and also a degree electrical engineer. If you can contact me I can go through your installation and make it better and safer. I like your attitude and videos .

[@neliosamch3195]

Yes, a 60A mppt controller needs at least #4 awg cable or 5mm Cables bend create resistance. Inverter enclosed in the metal box create lot of heat, over heating and inefficiency.

[@adon8672]

It will be more helpful if you share your knowledge and experience with everyone here.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

It's a 35mm MPPT connected to 1.2kW of solar. 25A are max it pushes into the battery.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

@kaindub no way to contact you. You have to contact me through the About page here on my channel.

[@michaelbouckley4455]

@@neliosamch3195 that’s 25mm

[@jeremy87turbo87]

Quick question please answer on your resistor you use while hooking up your electronics does it have to be 10% Is 5% OK as well......... This is the one I am looking at purchasing will it be ok.....18ohm 18R 5W Wirewound Cement Ceramic Resistor 5%

[@vickipps6821]

I would rather put a cct breaker in for safety sake

[@johnjansen1002]

And I Iam trying to find good bus bars for my 24v system. There is some complaints about the nuts locking up on the stainless steel nuts and bolts. Is there a fix to prevent this

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I can only recommend these ones here. They are great and far better than the ones coming with the cells: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o5XVZnuQj7eUisU

[@johnjansen1002]

No not the cell bus bars, the red and black bus bars in the electrical cabinet.

[@TechStories79]

Hey Mate, im from NSW not sure which state you are in, but are you allowed to wire the 240 volt side yourself without an electrician?

[@sarathai2876]

Hey we're about in Australia are you

[@henvan8737]

I believe its the sunny , rainy part.

[@jimhanty8149]

You gona need a fan in that box if you intend to push that inverter… heat is electronics biggest enemy other than salt water.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Keep watching, upgrades are coming in the following videos 😉

[@SpeakerKevin]

The charge controller manual will give you guidelines on what fuse size to use. Generally 125% of the charge controller rated amperage.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Nothing in the manual of the controller in terms of wiring or fusing...

[@SpeakerKevin]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia It may have an internal fuse, in that case it would not need an external one.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

@@SpeakerKevin that's what it says in the manual, yes.

[@Dave_Gurman]

Nice work though how do you get past that AC work in Australia needing to be done by a certified electrician?

[@michaelmeola9652]

no diy ac work in aus need a certificate of compliance from a lic electrician i am a lic ele 48 years now

[@Adlay_Eetswah]

Hi Andy, I believe your solar charge controller internally fused??? They say that it’s non replaceable but I would open it up to see, however does it protect both input and output? If so, my theory is that if you do add a fuse/breaker inline is will need to be rated lower than the internal. As far as breakers go those “Ebay specials” are junk and can’t be trusted. I have ordered some DC breakers that have the same form factor as AC from alibaba/aliexpress, and am going to test them to see if they perform as advertised, I will be pleasantly surprised if they do. And as for Isolation like you said you can “isolate from the panel fuses” if necessary.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

It has an internal fuse as per manual, that is correct. Just not sure how big it is so hard to tell what size of breaker would make sense.

[@Adlay_Eetswah]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia I’d say it’ll be 5 amps higher than the max output, curiosity would get the better of me and I’d have a sneaky peek inside, maybe at night or while there’s no solar production to be lost...

[@JeremyAkersInAustin]

@@Adlay_Eetswah Breakers and fuses are typically sized for 80% of continuous. So if continuous power is 35 amps for this MPPT, you'd need a 45 amp breaker for 35 amps to be "under" the 80% rule: 80% of 45 = 45 x .80 = 36.

[@itsfpv2561]

I know this is the off-grid garage, but have you thought about putting an automatic grid switcher in case you run out of battery juice?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I thought about it for a split second.

[@JeremyAkersInAustin]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia If you were going to do this you could have just went with the Victron MultiPlus instead of the Pheonix. It has a built in transfer switch and can auto switch based on things like battery SoC or voltage (And even charge the battery from grid if ever desired or needed)

[@timcx]

I am no expert, why do the PV supply cables go from the MPPT to the inverter, I would have guessed that they should go to the battery and then the battery feeds the inverter?

[@JeremyAkersInAustin]

By connecting them to the inverter you are effectively connecting them to the battery. Since there's already a massive cable going from the inverter to the battery: Instead of running a whole new cable all the way to the battery for can piggyback on that existing wire by connecting them together at the inverter. Victron Inverters often feature two studs each for both positive and negative connections for this reason. It simplifies wiring and reduces voltage drop from running more current over longer wire runs.

[@timcx]

@@JeremyAkersInAustin Thanks for explaining.

[@Fergo101]

How to cook your inverter video! They gunna fry in that box.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Nope, they won't ;)

[@dtec30]

Don't completely cut the power to the garage otherwise how will you topup the battery

[@dtec30]

Instead of dead ending the input power from the grid attach a power point to it

[@amudlifecrisis]

Or better yet an automatic transfer switch so if the batteries get low it switches back to grid power.

[@BajanAlan]

When I switch off my solar pannels the ligghts on the MPPT remain on

[@adon8672]

Powered from the battery bank?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Yes, the charge controller stays on when disconnecting the solar only.

[@toastiesvanbuild4644]

Oh know , that wasn’t a corona cough was it ?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

🤷‍♂️Who knows... Australia does not take part in Corona though.

[@computeification]

🐸🐸🐸 👍👍 🥋

[@5UPRAH]

What does your insurance company think of you doing all this yourself?

[@michaelmeola9652]

if you are not a licenced electrician you should not be working on the ac side at all

[@offgridwanabe]

You do nice work I always use a both pv & battery breakers for CC but it is just me.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

So breakers instead of fuses from the solar? And a breaker between MPPT and battery too?

[@offgridwanabe]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia I use breakers but fuses are good too. I just like them in case I have to isolate the charge controller then I don't need to shut off inverter to work on it.

[@mrrewog]

You need circuit protection from MPPT to inverter. It is to protect the conductor. Don't want to let all the smoke out of the wire. 😁

[@offgridwanabe]

@@mrrewog I almost always use a double breaker and do both positive and negative just for safety.

[@theonlywoody2shoes]

Agreed, but I also add a label to the DC output/isolator side of the MPPT: DISCONNECT SOLAR BEFORE ISOLATING BATTERY RECONNECT BATTERY BEFORE CONNECTING SOLAR. No magic smoke from my 100/30 Victron.... yet 🤞