The NEW Tekno SCT410SL 1/10 4wd Light Weight Short Course Truck - Pt. 6

I'm build a Tekno SCT410SL 1/10th scale 4wd light weight short course truck. Like most of my build videos, you will see the entire build in great detail. This offroad RC race car is designed for the serious RC racer who wants to compete in indoor and outdoor offroad racing.
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[@jonathonandrzejewski4064]

@MyRCChannel-CJScott First, man do I love the videos!! I have watched your SCT410.3 videos when I did my build. I love the general knowledge you have and the experience knowledge you put into the videos....really helps!! Now, you asked a question pertaining to the ball stud grub screw. I thought the same when hearing and looking at it, but then I got to thinking. Could they have placed that grub screw there to give move tension on the ball stud to prevent from backing out? As you mentioned, I don't think they will have a problem coming loose or backing out with the length. But hey, that was my two cents when I got to thinking about that grub......Thanks again for the videos!! Look forward to Pt. 7!!

[@sotorc1448]

So what wheels did you end up going with?? So I built everything stock. So what pills should I use for running on carpet?? Got 2nd in my race over the weekend. Wasn't able to get a video cuz it was too busy, But it was nice but it had a little trouble staying planted. I do have the bigger sway bars coming but was wondering I should set all the pills and stuff too.

[@MyRCChannel-CJScott]

Let me know where you set the front and rear pills and I’ll give you a suggestion(s). I bought the DE speed line plus associated compatible… two sets and a couple pairs of slicks, one in clay compound and one in super soft. The clay are proline bald eagles and the super soft are jconcepts smoothies. Normally I would have stuck to one brand, but availability was a problem.

[@MyRCChannel-CJScott]

BTW, congratulations on second place!

[@sotorc1448]

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott I did the stock set up for everything like it says in the book. So the pills I think are all just in the middle. But yea even like what hole I put the shocks in is all what the book says to do. So any suggestions I would really appreciate it.

[@MyRCChannel-CJScott]

@@sotorc1448 Sure thing… busy this afternoon but I’ll get you some tonight or tomorrow. I want to give you descent options with explanations.

[@MyRCChannel-CJScott]

When you say it wasn't staying planted, was it bouncing to much? If so, you might want to go up inn shock fluid 2.5wt, the stock fluid is 400cst which is about 34wt depending on the chart you read, so try some 37.5wt or 450cst. Was it staying straight under acceleration? If not use the D-block pills to go outward adding rear toe. Also, I heard a lot of the pros are running 500,000 cst in the center diff... it's not on their sheets, but it makes sense. Put power equally to front and rear diffs and get much better acceleration there reason positraction was developed for street cars was because a standard gear diff puts the power to the wheel with the least grip. Here are some notes I took a while ago on pills. Pill Adjustments - Front: In the front, moving the pivot (both swing arm pivots) inward, you're narrowing the pivot width. The result is better grip and more shock action. The car will be more aggressive, more steering and be more lively in general. In the front, moving the pivot outward will result in more stability and better drivability. The same applies to the rear pivots. Changing kick in the front: more front-up angle - more weight transfer. Takes pressure off the front of the car as it accelerates and transfer weight to the rear. Under deceleration, the weight transfers to the front. Less kick and there is less weight transfer forward and rear. The car stays flatter. Example, on a smooth track like carpet, take most of the kick out of the front to make the car run much flatter and more consistant. On a rough track, more kick will take pressure off the front end and keep the front end from digging in through the ruts Pills Adjustments - Rear: Adding toe will give more grip but less rotation. Note, increasing toe at the D-block is not the same as changing it at the C-block. Increasinng toe at the C-block will change the swing arm pivot inward. Adding anti-squat, mechanically the same as adding kick in the front, results in better grip and acceleration. Use less anti-squat on rough tracks to let the rear suspension loose so the car can flow better.