The Old Gunsmith - Project Gun Part 7 Relining The Barrel

[@50shadesoffde11]

I love this series ... keep teaching us singing gunsmith!

[@steveinthethumb6441]

Great video. I'm thinking of relining an old Whitney Rolling Block with a shot out .38 caliber rifled barrel and converting it into a 22LR if possible: instead of turning it into an in-line blackpowder muzzleloader. It has seen better days. I have to purchase or make a receiver main spring and trigger spring, plus the firing pin. I would like to use it again. I don't like wall hangers. haha Any thoughts/suggestions would be much appreciated. Have a great day. ~Steve

[@clems6989]

I love watching you work old man. But your wearing me out, gotta take a nap after each video....LOL Keep up good work...And Thank You.

[@paulmazan4909]

thank you. I would have answered sooner but I needed a nap

[@wayne3340]

This is the video I've been looking everywhere for. Thanks!

[@paulmazan4909]

Thank yoou for watching

[@456eec]

Great video. I disagree that soldering is difficult and you may not get it all joined. I am not a gun smith but have done a .25/20 and .32/20 Winchester 1892s and a .44/40 1873. I had no previous experience. You just need to have a bit of experience with soldering, flux etc and how to get solder to flow and stick. The barrel liner is tinned over it's length then the drilled bore tinned using a brush on a rod. The tinning is done a short length at a time and it is obvious when you have a good coat. Once this is done the liner will not fit down the bore. You need to heat bore and liner up starting at one end and it will start to slide in. You need 2 people with decent propane torches as as it gets in further you need to keep the whole barrel hot so it doesnt cool and bind but eventually it pokes out the other end. If there are any gaps between liner and barrel at either end they can be filled with solder by using a bit more which will then fill by surface tension. You can be confident of 100% contact as the 2 tinned surfaces have to join or the liner would not be able to be advanced. Advantages of the solder method are: -You don't need to worry about the bore as any solder that got in would not stick as it is not fluxed. I oiled it first which cooks off from the heat but solder would never stick. -No mess. Even if you got interrupted half way you could stop and go back to it later. -Traditional method -If the bore got damaged or corroded at a later date you could just remove the liner and install a new one. Give it a go next time. I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

[@usabaker1]

Agree with you on this. While I haven't sleeved a barrel, I have soldered long sections of tubing sleeves. Like the tubes, if the barrel is heated evenly, the solder will flow quickly and completely if fluxed and tinned correctly.

[@paulmazan4909]

Thank you for sharing that.

[@mosaeed6003]

I am happy to see this video I learned something today thanks you you so good 👍

[@08ralphie]

Thanks for teaching us and bringing a rifle back from the scrap heap. Snafuperman :)

[@45AlfaCharliePapa]

Thanks for watching.

[@garymcmullin2292]

heat barrel and coated liner with hair drier...will help in pushing liner. The regular Acraglass would be the best choice because it flows better. Buttering the bore with a large syringe is an aid to make sure that there is epoxy flowing well along the full travel of the liner.

[@45AlfaCharliePapa]

Thanks for the tip and for watching.

[@JeffandLeslie]

Thanks for sharing this. I know I'm 2 years late to the party. Quick question, is there a reason you didn't use red locktite? A gunsmith friend of mine uses red or green locktite to glue liners in. Your thoughts on it?

[@timungrysr3326]

Hi Singer, I'm Tim from Kotzebue, Alaska. Thanks for the Info.

[@commonsense7924]

I have been a gunsmith for over 50 years. I still canot stop laughing. This is the stuff that can hurt people.

[@paulmazan4909]

Great where is your video that shows us how to do it correctly, I'd like to watch it?

[@EvanLightner304]

I’m a machinist, when I saw him break out the hand drill I cringed lmao

[@paulmazan4909]

@@EvanLightner304 The entire focus of this series has been to give the hobbiest or anyone interested in gunsmithing an opportunity to learn the basics without having to invest thousands of dollars in equipment. If you have access to a lathe I would expect you to use it but to suggest that the job cannot be done without one is discouraging the beginner or hobbiest from ever starting. The piloted drills and instructions on drilling the barrel have been available from Brownells for years and provide a low cost method of relining .22 barrels. Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@paulmazan4909]

@Rayden Dillon Why? There are enough people out there screwing with others the world doesn't need another one. nor do we need several dozen more because you tell them how. You may think it's funny and no harm untiol you are on the receiving end of someone that really knows how to screw up your computer. give us a break and leave people alone.

[@paulmazan4909]

@@justusrandall1116 Common, knock it off guys. If you're going to do this stuff please keep it off this channel. This is set up to try to help people learn repair not how to hack others accounts. Thank you

[@HistorySmithCom]

Thanks for all of your great info and support. You call for a chamfer cutter for this new liner. I'm not finding one that matches what you used. Can you tell me where to get it? Jim

[@paulmazan4909]

Mine is from Brownells

[@mlone7]

Why not use 620 Loctite? I have used it to hold bearing races when they have spun, in a pinch. If I am not mistaken they are good to over 400 degrees heat. It does take 24 hours to cure but you arent in a hurry anyway.

[@factdesignbr]

I had to and now I do it cause I love it... I still build my guns lol

[@michaelbrooker1433]

Very informative video, thank-you. One thing that concerns me though is having enough epoxy in the joint all the way through. It seems that the leading edge will be losing the epoxy that was smeared on it. Were I to do this job I think I would, in addition to applying glue to the liner, put some in the rifle barrel so that there is a glob of glue continually filling the joint as the barrel liner goes down the bore.

[@45AlfaCharliePapa]

Due to KZbin's policy of no links to gun providers I can not put the Brownells link here. However if you look up the video on gunstreamer you might find it there in the comments. ;-)

[@robertanderson2285]

The instructions say to do that. Also, I think he mixed the fiberglass with it, which I would not do. If you mix the resin in a dish sitting in ice, it will stay fluid longer, giving you more time to insert the liner.

[@michaelmcclure8673]

Acraglas is from Brownells, it's made for the shooting industry.

[@bigbirderbob3710]

Thank you for using your hand drill. I was questioning my methods for "smithing". What is your step drill called? Oh also you need to specify you are drilling out THE OLD BARREL as someone might mistake which one. Sounds crazy but you never know.

[@trevorseals6588]

I didn’t even know This was an option. I have a 22 that was drilled out for rat shot and I’ve wondered if I could convert it back this way, thank you very much

[@dkruitz]

That acraglass looks so thick, I wonder if it got scraped off when inserted. JB Weld is thinner and might do better. I think threadlocker would be easiest for certain.

[@brianonthego]

Interesting

[@chrisjarvis4449]

ya it will work but that's about all it will do . parkerlined of parker hale did some of the finest liners that were ever installed they sold a line of bsa 22 target rifles that the fist thing they did with brand new rifles was to install there liners and they were soldered . some of the best liners you can buy come from track of the wolf they are made by TJ and are hammer forged . some of the best liners i ever seen were ones done by a doug k. he was a master at it he put them in right and they were tack drivers rip doug.

[@AmericanDefender]

Love this stuff.

[@45AlfaCharliePapa]

Thanks for watching Brother.

[@missingthe80s58]

If I didn't have a lathe I would at least use a board and blocks to mount the barrel in and use something like eye bolts anchored in line with the bore to guide the drill and keep it somewhat aligned. This method was used to make new barrels back in the day, it doesn't take much effort to make such a cheap tool yet help reduce runout.

[@احمدتحسين-ص2ه]

Question for the makers: What is the approved and reliable way to seal the other (rear) part of the barrel?

[@dicoliebl5185]

Foi recuperado o raiamento do rifle?

[@JD187b]

This is a good grandpa lol

[@paulmazan4909]

Glad ya liked it ya wippersnapper

[@sdjb111]

Would you use red threadlocker ? or is that not good ?

[@45AlfaCharliePapa]

I have heard of people using red threadlocker. However Acra Glass has been used for years on many gunsmithing projects from wood stock repair and rifle bedding among others. It is also a product of the aviation industry so it has to meet a very high standard. So while Red threadlocker may do that one job, Acra Glass has many other uses in the shop. Thanks for watching.

[@Douglas46461]

Very informative though.

[@702havingfun]

That's how they do Christiansen arms barrels

[@detroitredneckdetroitredne6674]

Would it be worth it to give the liner it twist as you Insert it to spread the Apoxy

[@paulmazan4909]

It couldn't hurt. I also push the liner past the muzzle and then pull it back to make sure there is plenty of epoxy at the muzzle end

[@marksimone5609]

Great video! I cannot for the life of me find the info u described on brownells. I clicked learn and having trouble. Could u help a bit? Also is the crown bit just a standard (target crown)? Thanks a bunch love the help.

[@45AlfaCharliePapa]

Due to KZbin's policy of no links to gun providers I can not put the link here. However if you look up the video on gunstreamer you might find it there in the comments. ;-)

[@robertanderson2285]

On the Brownell's website, go to one of the barrel liner pages, and on the left side, under 'Description', scroll down to the bottom, and there will be a link to the PDF file.

[@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC]

As of the current date, there is no such link to an instructions pdf on the barrel liner page on the Brownells site; however, just do a web search for the following query: brownells "barrel liner" pdf

[@bradpotter6401]

Does Accra Glass hold up to hot blueing?

[@45AlfaCharliePapa]

I can't say for sure but the stuff is almost indestructible. Thanks for watching.

[@paulmazan4909]

I've never tried it so I can't say for sure.

[@ray211225]

Would not red locktight be better ?

[@usabaker1]

Had the same question. My first thought was Loctite 271 if I were not going to solder it, and then I got curious. The choice may be because of how much the barrel may heat up during use. Brownells doesn't give a melting point in their MSDS but you can figure that if the flashpoint is 485.6 °F, it's going to melt at around 325.00 °F (33% of Flashpoint). Loctite has a melting point of 134.00 °F (or thereabout). So Acraglas has just a bit less than Tin Lead Solder 357.8 ºF to 554.90 ºF. and is better suited for the application than Loctite. With this, I think I'll still go with a low tin content lead solder to keep away from the 450 °F temper threshold. This of course leads to the next questions; 1. What is normal use when you talk about shooting a .22 rifle and 2. What temperature does a barrel get to shooting at "Normal Use". Guess what I'll be hooking up thermocouples too on my next outing at the range.

[@ray211225]

@@usabaker1 I belive sir that is the best response i have ever gotten on a question .. 👏👏 Unless your running a MG42 in ..22lr with 1,000 round belt non stop i do not ever see a barrel getting that hot lol .

[@usabaker1]

@@ray211225 You are more than likely right, but I'm a curious cat LOL... After a bit more research on the Henkel adhesives website, I found that Loctite 620 will withstand 392 °F which is plenty strong enough and would make a much cleaner installation than Acragls or Solder. "LOCTITE® 620 is a retaining compound designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts" I might see some 620 in my future. Which makes me wonder..... Ever had to remove a bolt locked in by an idiot who thought you needed to use a whole tube of 271 on a bolt? Gotta wonder how hard it would be to remove a bolt treated the same with 620... My bet is localized heating with a soldering iron ain't going to cut it.

[@johnhotrod3231]

Would you be interested in lining a Marlin model 1893 to .30-.30?

[@45AlfaCharliePapa]

Hello, John. My name is Beth, I am Matt's wife. I am so sorry to inform you that Matt passed away from Covid 16 months ago. His dad is The Old Singing Gunsmith. Since Matt's passing it has been too difficult emotionally for him to come on this site and view any of the videos and therefore can't answer any questions. If he has been on the site anytime recently I am not aware of it. Thank you so much for watching these videos. Matt, AKA 45alphacharliepapa, is greatly missed by his family and friends. These videos were his pride and joy.

[@noodlesoup2281]

Maybe pull the barrel into the vice when cutting it so you dont destroy it.

[@MegaRiffraff]

👍🏻

[@prrrr1640]

I didn't see you degreasing the barrel liner exterior nor the bore itself prior to applying the acraglas. Did I miss something? All the handling residue will act as a bondbreaker, degreasing is critical to an acraglas job...

[@wayne3340]

P Rrrr, He did say he needed to do that. 8:00 minutes in.

[@Douglas46461]

Why all the screaming at the beginning of the video?

[@Strutingeagle]

Your glass looks old and chunky.

[@user-rm5rq3ix8p]

I haven't seen anything

[@therepairallguyssenderoplu3378]

Wtf is with all the screaming? I had to shut this video off 😢

[@Rick-tb4so]

Your volume is bad..

This should be titled “Don’t do This!” Not enough oil. Looks like wrong oil as well! Not even remotely square to the bore....

[@JamesClark-lw6sw]

WRONG! THAT IS A PILOTED DRILL BIT ESPECIALLY MADE FOR INSTALLING THAT LINER. IT WORKS FINE.

[@MegaRiffraff]

👍🏻