The Paris Fashion Week Problem

[@theamethyst93]

There’s always a problem. Now that people are buying vintage it’s not “original” enough. The fashion industry likes to manufacture problems.

[@IN-rd9oy]

I honestly didn’t think Walter did anything drastically different from his own archive. So I’m a little confused. His design language has stayed the same. I’m not complaining but it just seems contradictory in some way. So he modified a suit like he has always done? Sometimes I worry that designers just find something to say after they have built their collection. Dior was more novel than Walter’s to me

[@johnathanblack836]

To be fair to Junya, he's been using americana and workwear motifs in his menswear collections for decades now - sexy lumberjack styles included.

[@standdownrobots_ihaveoldglory]

I have to admit, as a rural Montanan, workwear trends crack me up. Until they affect the local goodwill prices lol. I’m cool paying $20-30 instead of $8-12 (I used to donate extra before they started flagging hot brands- btw, because of disability equality, now the people with cognitive disabilities know cool brands too!) but now the carhartts have totally disappeared from thrift shops. I’ll be honest, if you actually are for the streets, you do need good clothing gear to deal & protect your territory, it makes functional sense for gangbangers to wear this stuff (let’s face it, the people it’s designed for are packing too). If you are a musical performer or a style enthusiast, YOU DO NOT NEED RURAL FARM WORK GEAR. Give it back please 😂😂😂 send it to the goodwill in billings Montana 😉 keep the labels, send the gear, it’s freaking amazing.

[@gpu213]

@@standdownrobots_ihaveoldglory nah i disagree. as much as it might be frustrating for you to have the supply of these jackets dry up, everyone - unless you're a complete shut in - can benefit from having durable, practical clothes like a carhartt jacket jacket. it started as workwear, then became adopted by skaters and stuff for its ruggedness then spread to streetwear culture as a whole because it is durable and reliable. Its a trend now but I've had mine (and admittedly mine is a bit different than the super trendy detroit one in light brown (ive got a white michigan jacket that I wore to paint houses and now it has paint stains on it) since 2020 and I still wear it all the time and I imagine I'll still wear it in 20 years, despite the fact I no longer work a "blue collar" job. Also if you understand fashion history you'll realise that a LOT of standard clothes that have been popular and continue to be staples, from suits to flares to bomber jackets have come to popularity after originating as militray gear. Its the same thing, stuff is designed for one job (military) and then people who dont do that job realise it works for other purposes too and looks good. So the history of fashion and "work" clothes is completely intertwined going back centuries already.

[@greenbamboo4264]

Thank you for the Baby Girl reference. So many people didn’t get it and was making fun of his costume.

[@zzpack]

The trench coat + leather jacket combo from Auralee spoke to me in a deeper level lol

[@kogenn5213]

Recently interested in fashion, I am lucky that found your channel Your contents are rare but so informative in KZbin 😊

[@jimmyha5212]

Initial reactions from watching your video: 1) even though 90% of menswear channels keep insisting upon it, skinny fit pants are still not coming back. Fine by me, i like to be comfortable. 2) I have to accept I can never afford any Auralee, and 3) The sweater-as-an-accessory trend is still cool. Before it could be a scarf, but now it can be your belt!

[@percish]

@@jimmyha5212 sweaters can be whatever you want 🥸

[@FranklinsFish]

could not care less about fashion weeks, but I did love your earlier videos of you trying on outfits and talking us through why you chose them. So helpful for someone who’s only now trying to dress more consciously!

[@kyleysneed]

Thanks for making these vidoes!! We need more analysis like this on KZbin 🫶

[@percish]

@@kyleysneed thank you my love 💞

[@UstaPsa]

this is such an interesting video! I love you comments and the shows you decided to cover. I would love to see some more videos like this from you

[@percish]

Thank you!

[@aileendoyle1285]

Big fan of these fashion breakdowns! Please continue this genre of videos, super entertaining 😊

[@BobRoberts2504]

Another great video Percia! I think the blue shirt is a regular degular blue shirt that you can probably find anywhere! I enjoyed your commentary throughout! The one collection I enjoyed the most of fall fashion week was Y-3 but you didn’t cover that but it would fall under the same line of thinking as Rick and Kiko - it’s just Yohji doing Yohji things. I hope you have a good day! ✌️

[@dimplesd8931]

Willy Chavarria’s collection was so cool! Love the reference to the Zoot suit.

[@CarlosLeFleur]

LOVED the Chavarría Show. I’m from NYC originally so watching him debut in Paris made me tear a little watching him grow as an independent brand.The proportions have always been a nod to Chicano culture and Zoot suit wars in the 40s/50s California where wool was scene as a precious textile(super interesting research-look it up-). Basically his signature style. The tweed/bouclé (both made from wool), are very common this fw25.

[@juliancarter-qb4ln]

The Auralee layered striped knit stood out to me too! my favorite look by far

[@julie.k15]

thx for making this!! loved auralee and wales bonner:)

[@standdownrobots_ihaveoldglory]

Omg I thought she was saying Orly, like the wool rug people & I was shocked but impressed by their market flexibility 😂😂😂

[@TheRealRVS]

Im looking forward to this. Love your videos.

[@nicovincenti]

I loved your insights on the fashion collections

[@susanma4899]

Interesting that the long necklace is trending. I'm not really a long necklace person, but I do have one that I wear whenever my fit calls for it. It's a black leather strap with a silver orb on it (there are silver stars on the orb), and inside the orb is something that tinkles softly, little chimes. It's kind of magical, I don't know how it works. I thrifted it of course. Seems like you/me could so easily make another long necklace with a seashell, a big charm. Def doable.

[@jewelhancock1647]

Loving this videooo

[@paintingmonkey]

Really interesting, thoughtful video - I enjoyed it a lot!

[@erinj1360]

Great video! And I wasn't familiar with Willy Chavarria or Wales Bonner---love! Thanks

[@NotMyGumDropButtons.444]

love that Wantanabe biz DAMN 💜💜💜💚💚💜💚

[@skhootman]

Looks like a classic French Blue button down. You should be able to thrift it easily.

[@BronsonMiller-b6p]

LUMBERSEXUAL!!! Oh my wow...never heard that. Godammit I needed that laugh...thank you so much...gotta spread that around Phoenix

[@jamesgarland6989]

The random Prada clip in the beginning was weird as that show was in Milan and not Paris.

[@SubtleProvisions]

I was expecting Y-3 and Yohji Yamamoto too. What's your take on them?

[@Calcalcalcalcalc]

2011 me would’ve gone absolutely crazy over the Junya collection, the fits are great. I’m mostly just thankful there’s still no sign of skinny jeans returning.

[@haveasmiletoday2814]

Did the title change or am I remebering things wrong? (Loved the video as always!)

[@percish]

@@haveasmiletoday2814 haha no I changed the title

[@clee89]

I always associate that shade of blue you talk about in this video with '90s and '00s officewear. It's the sort of blue in some kind of poplin fabric I seem to remember my father wearing a lot to the office. I thnk I personally like it more on others than myself. I feel more at home wearing chambray if I'm gonna wear a blue top in that family of blue.

[@ericflorentino6952]

WE COME IN PIECES PS: Yes, the sky blue! i noticed it most in Kim Jones. Then he made it stand out in Dior Mens' SS2024. Then he did it in leather on a Fendi Baguette Selleria also in SS2024; it sort of reminded me of Hermes' color Bleu Paradis (code 2T).

[@benpuffer7891]

If you showed me real runway fashion and then parody runway fashion, I would be unable to tell the difference.

[@georgecoleman4300]

To your point, Junya has been doing this same thing for years. His customer loves it. He has spearheaded it years ago. So he is doing him. And it’s HOT mostly due to him.

[@brigidia8218]

loved this vid!

[@standdownrobots_ihaveoldglory]

I just gave my 24 year old hisgrandfather’s 1950/60s leather bomber with zip in wool fleece panels, not realizing it’s even a trendy piece right now. He’s got an affection for terrible hipster hats (I was a lesbian avenger root grrrl at his age, my style was even more hipster lol, so I can’t say anything), will look forward to seeing him style the coat… I am realizing I could have sold it online for a very decent price, but ofc I would have given it to my son anyway. Well made vintage outerwear will never let you down.

[@946biz6]

Great channel, keep feeding me dope content, thank for reviewing Willy Chavarria, word to Kendrick Lamar!

[@MlleBambi]

Isnt this blue the literal DwP’s cerulean blue ?

[@SkyMandierLucien]

The way you say thong makes me chuckle 😅

[@percish]

@@SkyMandierLucien big mistake 😭 huge 😭

[@LooksByNaheemah]

The Watanabe show just feels full hipster. This whole season looks like the 2010s thew up. Like Walter, I want new references and style that looks to the future

[@IN-rd9oy]

Ironically, I think Junya Watanabe is a strong influence on the workwear street style we see today. I actually liked this collection because it was a reminder of this. I realize there is a quick desire to critic in recent time and we’ve had a lot more fashion ‘historians’ but I think some more work needs to be done in understanding these designers and their previous works before the somewhat negative criticisms are made.

[@chibivesicle9612]

The sky/light blue button down dress shirt is giving me total corporate management/start up professional attire. I recently switched from academia to industry and the lack of variety in the clothing - particular what older cis het white men is dreadfully similar. When I look at photos from our local start up/biotech community, you will find that sky blue shirt with no tie on at least 75% of the men. What is even more hilarious is when multiple men are all wearing that same shirt in the same group photo just the suit/pants are either black or navy (again no tie!). I happen to have a dress shirt in that color which I wear with very unique looking skirts/pants but can't shake the feeling I look like a boring older white dude bullshitting myself through banal conversations at networking events!

[@stephanieannframpton6527]

It’s called French Blue. De reguer office shirt c. 1995.

[@Mienarrr]

I dont know if as a creator, this is something you can opt in or out of, but this new automatic synchronization overdubbing feature on youtube is so annoying :( I wanna be able to hear your voice when I open the video and not an ai voice in my native language...

[@percish]

@@Mienarrr oh what? I haven’t heard of that. I assume you can turn it off on your side?

[@Kaarver]

How annoying! I didn’t get that on this video (I don’t get it on any, actually). I would hate it!

[@snipe775]

2:26 surprised me, I went to high school with them

[@jaylovesqc]

can anybody tell me what the grey NB model is at 9:45?

[@percish]

New balance 471s collab with Junya

[@jaylovesqc]

@@percish appreciate it! i was going through pages and pages of google images lol

[@marissahereso]

I only recently learned that Robert Longo directed the New Order video for Bizarre Love Triangle. You can see a nod to his "Men in Cities" in the visuals during the chorus. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpyyo2RodrajpLcsi=im5fFBxapmfkCM9V

[@jmunnie00]

Its robin's egg blue.

[@malikaminor]

That junya show looks like it was from 2019

[@CRIMSONCITADeL]

longo does photorealist drawings, not photos.

[@winterlion9366]

Lol...homeless fashions are in.

[@kdri267]

great video, I'm not into fashion/seasonal trends and especially not designers who want to use their runways for political messages, aren't there enough political messages everywhere(TV/Movies/posters/books/school/etc.)... turned me completely off. Auralee was by far the best.

[@percish]

@@kdri267 but so much of art is inherently political, why not fashion?

[@kdri267]

​@@percish You're right, but more broadly I guess I'm just tired of the constant division that stems from politics.

[@rodion-z]

Tv, movies, books that you listed can be forms of art. So does fashion. So does music. Politics has always been a big part of all of those art forms. It is unrealistic fo expect fashion to be devoid of politics unless you want politics to be removed from all forms of art.

[@kdri267]

​@@rodion-z You're right, it's unrealistic for me to expect that, which means I much prefer the wearable vs arts part of fashion.

[@rodion-z]

@@kdri267 fair enough. Although if you care about stuff like sustainability in clothes manufacturing, ethical standards of production, diversity in model representation, inclusive sizing and wardrobe considerations, those are all political messages.