The Part Of Ignition System Set-Up Everyone Neglects - Universal To All Distributor Style Ignitions

Checking and correcting phasing issues between the distributor cap and it's rotor should be considered an essential part of blueprinting your ignition system. Here's why this is important and how you can check to see if yours is indexed correctly.
#classiccar #tuneup #ignition
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[@jonathangehman4005]

Where else are you going to get this info in an accurate and understandable way. Never stop Brother

[@kurtzimmerman1637]

forgot to put the attachment on my wahl trimmer a few times! gave myself a half a stache in about a quarter of a second ! thanks Tony & Kathy

[@jimmybare3026]

I have to admit I've done it and watch my personality fall off of my face onto the floor. Sad 😥

[@andrewbutton5580]

oh yes, the Garage door springs in smogger unit. Takes alot to get that moving. FBO plate and little springs is the way to go.

[@shoominati23]

The first thing I do when I buy a GM HEI - is pull the Hei module and replace it with a Genuine MSD item, even on the supposedly 'Good' genuine GM ones. Another advantage of the big cap is less voltage arc between the terminals or 'Corona' effect

[@davidtindle6973]

This episode is kinda crazy, I was going to Email you about this exact issue I fixed for a guy and his Nissan D21, They had the cap 180' out and it barely connected, Enough room a spark could start going through the plastic walling and burnt into the other point Contact. The only reason it would run and drive was because it was firing the exhaust plugs when it should have been igniting the intake plugs(8 plugs/wires on a D21 4 cyl). Got it fixed and timed properly and it runs like a top!!

[@professorx7398]

I have an 1984 720 pickup and yep, those engines and components can be a pain to troubleshoot. Mine seems to be out of time no matter what I do.

[@ercost60]

God bless this man. Uncle Tony is my new favorite KZbinr.

[@afastcuda1970]

Now this was great info. My clips are hard the clip, I will have to check my phasing. Doesn't run bad but sometimes it's hard to start and I don't feel like I can get the timing just right.

[@dannyk1980]

HEI was available on some GM cars as an option in 1974

[@petergrey7125]

Thank you Uncle Tony! Great info! sometimes it’s the smallest details that make the biggest difference. 👍

[@georgelackey622]

Tony, I had an odd experience years ago. I bought an '85 F-150 300 six 3 speed truck, driving it home it was ok in town. On the highway about 3 mi home it wouldn't go over 40. Got home and first thing I did was go to look at the carb, when I went to take off the air cleaner the whole carb tilted! Tightened the card down, took it back out and she ran great!

[@Tomcat71]

I bought an S10 one time with the TBI 4.3 , I always make a habit of rebuilding the injector pods, they need rebuilt from time to time like a carb, I pulled the TBI unit off and not only did someone have the injectors in backwards so the top wouldn't seat down so they just JB welded it, but it also didnt have a base to manifold gasket.. you could see the carbon build up on the top of the intake so I knew I didnt drop it when I took it off..LOL ran a million times better after I fixed everything.

[@jaybirdls1]

As a manufacturing/process engineer I like to think of systems like this that have lots of mating pieces like an onion. Confirm each layer, every detail, then go to the next layer. Or in this case, the next mating surface/interface. Great video, I love learning about old cars from you 👍🏻

[@mikekokomomike]

My Kawasaki KLR650 factory service manual section on rebuilding the transmission says pay attention to the mating dogs on the gears

[@darrellsmith5395]

I had this problem years ago, every time I put a load on the motor it did the same and 3 distributors later the problem was fix and to this day I could not tell you what the problem was and you explained it well. Thanks for this episode, I could have never explained this or put 2 in 2 together.

[@rustybritches6747]

same here! I think Tony might have just fixed a problem I've been dealing with for a very long time now! I've replaced everything except for the distributor because I figured it was brand new and didn't want to spend another couple hundred dollars but after all it is made in China!

[@qaz3000]

I know a distributor specialist and he always says bring me an old oem junk one and not a brand new chinese one. Food for toughts.

[@darrellsmith5395]

@@rustybritches6747 good luck 👍

[@robertcrispell1476]

Tony I challenge you to drill a 1/2" hole in your dist cap as described/grab your timing light & see what mechanical and or vac advance does or does not do to your rotor phasing as you rev the engine. Robert

[@nicholasagnew2792]

Right...Mechanical advance doesn't change rotor phasing as Tony stated, only vacuum advance does that actively and its the only thing that does. To change rotor phasing otherwise you need an adjustable rotor, adjustable cap theoretically, an adjustable breaker plate (or reluctor for electronic distributors), to modify the length of the vacuum advance arm, or install a crank trigger.

[@Trikekid84]

Did you know you can be a tooth off and still get your timing where it needs to be? As long as the distributor body or advance canister doesn't come in contact with anything, you can just turn your cap. I had to do this on a 230 i6 because of the clearance issues I was having with the new fuel line, and lifter covers.

[@randomlife718]

When I put a distributor in 180 out, I just move the wires half way around.

[@robv.o.1777]

I bought a doner dart to do a v8 swap to my valiant. The pickup coil retainer broke, and allowed the little coil go very close to the reluctor. It behaved like a chevy with a flat exhaust cam lobe. Backfiring under load. Had the valve covers off .. Made me scratch my 16 year old head for a while😮

[@iansigman1651]

Money video...for someone more familiar with diesels. This is why Tony's my Uncle. I'm gonna replay this a few times, and index the timing on Sparky the Yota.

[@robertcrispell1476]

also I smooth the ID of the reluctor with some fine sandpaper so that it will slide easier on/off the shaft, some are very tight

[@rgbigdog]

Uncle Tony I needed a new alternator for my 1992 F150. Went to the auto parts store and the guy behind the counter was older gentleman. I told him what I needed and he looked up the part and asked me you want the one with 1 year warranty or the one with the lifetime. I said the lifetime. He said it would be here that afternoon and yes I gave him the bad one for core exchange for the 10 dollars off the price. I called them up around 4 pm they said they just got there. Went to pick it up around 5pm. A young man brought out the part and opened the box. He said does this alternator look right. I said no. The pulley was for a V-belt and the wires where messed up. I got a refund but now I have no old alternator. If you want a Ford remanufactured alternator you need the old one to remove the pulley and fan which I no longer have for it went back with the delivery truck. The box was right but the party wasn't. I finally found one online from Rock Auto that was OEM and it has the fan and the 6 rib pulley for a serpentine belt and also the proper electrical ports for my factory wire harness. It's crazy what you have go through to get the right parts for an older vehicle these days.

[@adamballinger1358]

" If you're gonna go a little bit ,you might as well go all the way" so true UT

[@bengibbs7771]

@uncletony'sgarage please write a book mate,love your vids hear in New Zealand.This older mechanic knowledge is seriously a dieing breed.Ive grown up with my dad being a Ford petrol head and since he passed unfortunately taken more interest.Love the universal engine knowledge you're giving out,thanks mate

[@mschiffel1]

Geez, Tony, You clean up real nice!

[@TheGforcead]

I got a cool story about a tune up, 2000 something 305 Chevy truck. I am riding to AutoZone with the guy for moral support I guess cause he was doing the tune up, I was just along for the ride, when we get there they get us distributor cap and rotor button, it's not the big "high top hat" one this is a little one like Chryslers or points/condenser Chevies had back on the day and a rotor button. I always compare parts to see the differences, cheap generic vs. factory, color, make sure it'll fit, it's just something always do. Someone had put there old one back in the box, might have returned it and got their money back? Who knows, it was on the shelf like a new part, but. I hand it back to the salesman, "I already have a used one, I need a new one!", Rotor button was used too! I couldn't believe it, they not supposed to take returned electric stuff as a rule. It was in worse shape then our. Old one. Who would have thought that me comparing parts would save us a trip to parts store. I ain't downing AutoZone, it could have happened any parts store. AutoZone has saved me lots of money with their low price parts, they were as amazed as we were ....

[@billnlori3149]

Great info!! I drill a hole in the cap right next to the #1 terminal and then you can shoot your timing light in there and verify 100% while the engine is running. works nice!!!

[@laceyforrest5799]

this is a great video- i have heard of doing this but never knew how to do it or why. Now im going to check mine today! Thank you for a great video and be careful with that razor.

[@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305]

you should also check your points on the cap, ive bought ones where they were twisted too much inside and so instead of straight.. they were / sideways

[@pinkyellowblue007]

I sub to like 200 channels but this one is my favorite.

[@Hipsters_N_Hippies]

I think I am having an aneurysm over here😆🤣😂 I haven’t laughed that hard in a few years, and to be completely honest without joking around, The last time I laughed this hard was your fire ball story.

[@davidbastow9319]

Thank You Tony!

[@bestbrother97]

We had a issue on a 1989 Chevy C1500 where it did something similar. It cracked the magnet on the distributor causing the pick up to read incorrectly. We replaced everything in the ignition system up to that point except the distributor as a assembly, but still had issues. We replaced the whole distributor and it ran fine.

[@randywl8925]

I had an issue in my old '73 Chevy stepside where it stumbled at 2250rpm. Didn't matter if you nailed the pedal or ran up to speed gradually. It ended up being the flat spring that puts tension on the points arm. It was so weak because it had a crack. Frustrating, but once discovered, I always bought Blue Streak points instead of cheap ones.

[@matthewmann8951]

Dude I just caught me 3 squirrels in my back 40 trying to lighten of a small block double barrel Plymouth carb. I told em put the carb down and your mits in the aur suckus! They complied, and were escorted outside the compound. End of story. Gottsawatchem all the time. Peace to all my homies.

[@dublloyd9625]

i have really enjoyed your videos they are a wealth of knowledge to me i thank you

[@joshuamoore24_7]

They should came out with a ignition box on a rotor shaft that replaces points distributors and HEI distributors.

[@johnfairchild3421]

I had. Two that done similar and it was a Clogged exhaust

[@robertcrispell1476]

drill a new reluctor roll pin hole with a drill bit that I miked at 0.09925. have the bit JUST outside the ID hole. with it just right it will almost break thru to the inside center hole as you drill down. you have 8 teeth on the reluctor so you can make several tries till you get it dead on. saves you filing which is a real time consuming pain.

[@johnfairchild3421]

I had this problem a few. Times. Yes. Sir. Made me pull my hair out. One. Time I changed points on my car and it wouldn’t even start. I fooled with it a hour

[@unclesquirrel6951]

Personally I blame squirrels

[@SweatyFatGuy]

Its the woodchucks I tell you! UP there chittering away, instructing the squirrels to weak havoc in the woodchuck bid to take over the universe. If not for their lack of opposable thumbs, they would succeed.

[@beniamino939]

They're building EVs from nuts and electrolytes.

[@craig8187]

No sh!t John , id not have guessed!!

[@SweatyFatGuy]

@@beniamino939 brawndo, its what plants crave.

[@richardgamblin6068]

I don’t know 🤔 aliens like to play with nuts too

[@ronrader575]

Great video! Thanks!

[@robertcrispell1476]

I dont think a drill bit is going to be able to locate a new roll pin holed correctly with what I've tried so far. I just got a 3/32 end mill & I am going to try it

[@elliottbutts153]

I had always figured the GM HEI caps were so big just to make room for the coil to sit on top.

[@deankay4434]

Actually it was increased distance between plug terminals to keep from jumping spark. Tested output was using the "ST125" spark tester as standard minimum spark was 25,000kV. That is what a large cap that allowed room to place the coil on top. Plus output resistance was reduced as direct thru the secondary circuit into the rotor, then plug terminals. The corrosion that built over time was "Ionized Nitrogen w/oxygen". The base of the distributor was vented as they then put fan-type blades on the bottom of the rotor. GM implemented HEI in 1972, not 1976. But UTG is not a GM guy. I was working on everything including imports, but later, received tons of GM training at Buick. As they moved into 3 coil packs. Cam sensor goes bad, the ECM would trigger of last know power stroke twice and watch for RPM increase. Then move to next pair, then next. It have a 1 in 3 chance of getting the firing order correct. Extended crank, sometimes a back fire, but started. This was developed as Buick invented "Sequential Fuel Injection" as used on the Grand National. Now all vehicles have to use it for misfire detection I. D. DK. ASE master since 1978.

[@RaysLaughsAndLyrics]

Tony must be chanelling Ed Roth by changing beard styles.

[@cowthedestroyer]

Parts cannon stories are always the best especially if it wasn't your money.

[@kevinwallis2194]

Im having to go to wildcat auto wrecking to get an engine wire harness because i cant trust reproduction parts. Im just glad theres a yard with nothing but mopars to pick from.

[@kevinmitchell6856]

I guess at the early part of the video is the distributor cap center contact was bouncing around

[@gotrust4741]

Lol I’ve done the same thing with the shaver 😂

[@aftermathwhite4955]

3 and I oil for the trimmers

[@berniebass3575]

Also bushings on distributor.

[@rondpert5167]

I don't quite get why the phasing isn't aligned when you turn the distributor to set base timing? Shouldn't that put the #1 terminal opposite the rotor?

[@Null-h6c]

question . Does ignition rotor metal width matter ? I ask because some distributor like ford have big distributor cap and can be changed for small distributor cap .since distance between each distributor contact is greater or smaller . I was wondering if width of the ignition rotor had to be an ideal width . Exemple same width as the distributor cap contact ? For less overlap ?

[@peterthadeus9441]

Uncle Tony, doesn't the rotor, along with the points cam or reluctor, advance with the mechanical advance, keeping the phasing the same throughout the advance curve?

[@ercost60]

2:42 4:18 "Like I sez..." :)

[@jackjackson6476]

G'day again U.T from Jack & Joe's Mechanical in Australia...I've had this problem literally hundreds of times when I've converted points dizzys to electronic internals like the pertronix style kits, generally I've had very little problems with the pertronix kits but it's more so with the cheap knock offs that throw the button timing WAY out, sometimes so badly that the engine won't even start! mainly on the English cars and some GM cars(we call them Holdens over here) The nightmare part is when the problem does arise how to remedy the situation! sometimes it's not too bad other times there's tears of blood! Can I just make one not so much as a criticism but more of a note...instead of telling the story of setting the point gap just before breaking at timing (you used 15 BTDC as an example) why didn't you just say...right, start your engine and time it with a TIMING LIGHT to your requirements, then take the cap off etc etc etc, much easier then guessing and trying to take up timing chain slack and all the other bits and bobs that wear trying to do it statically. LOVE YOUR WORK TONY! KEEP IT UP!

[@nicholasagnew2792]

Mechanical advance doesn't change rotor phasing, only vacuum advance does that.

[@bobganshaw364]

Good tips

[@tonypace2009]

Just had a funny thought imagine someone getting parts from one of smokey's modded engines?? Lol

[@jonmoore8995]

Extremely helpful. Thank You Uncle Tony.

[@lilmike2710]

I stopped making any attempt at trimming my beard or moustache period. Because of the same reason. Plus I seem to be ham fisted when I try and do it and would wind up looking like the local wino.

[@Tommy_Mac]

I had the coil button get stuck up inside the distributor cap. Ran like crap under load.

[@meetthebutcher]

at 2:09 I'm guessing pick up coil ?

[@SmudgyContent]

Question 🙋‍♂️ about 98 Ram2500 5.9mag orange wire in the harness, when I pulled the engine there’s a wire Labeled As ( PTO ) What’s it for?

[@servicetrucker5564]

I want to know too

[@lawrenceveinotte]

I'm struggling with a 318 with electronic, at idle the timing looks fine, start to rev it up and it starts advancing, at around 1500 i start seeing the mark on the crank start showing up at zero on the timing tab, not full time but kinda every now and then, rev it up higher and it goes away, wth? i am struggling getting the cap on, i did change the dist, control box and a new coil, no change.

[@johnstuchlik5828]

Lawrence check your timing chain for excess stretch.rotate crank back and forth with wrench.drive gear bushing also.

[@jimmungai1938]

What you just explained there is one of the things that I didn’t know about and that is the stuff that guys like socks and Martin new Landy grumpy Jenkins all those guys they knew about that stuff all right that’s one of the reasons why their cars were so much faster than some of the local guys a lot of local guys didn’t know about that those little tricks and things like that anyway oh hey thanks for that information OK Tony this is a Jim mungai from Kennerdell Pennsylvania

[@Tommy_Mac]

I did something similar with my beard. Set the guard accidentally wrong. Trimmed it _all_ back. Everybody was surprised. They told me I looked a lot younger, so I keep it short now. No biggie.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

It's way easier to get poon that way

[@richardbates2367]

Anyways I because of that and a few issues with replacement parts on a Oldsmobile 307 roller cam v8 in a 86 Buick Regal sport coupe non limited trim car I had just after I graduated in 98 about October almost November of the same year.i now check all new parts with what I am replacing and compare them, and even on the early 94 Chevy Silverado although with some stuff on the tbi 350 it is harder to do I still compare them and if the case of a few vehicles I've got some parts were missing or I put something else in the vehicle I would find one of my buddies that had that setup in their car, truck or station wagon or van,mini van whatever and ask questions and compare what I had to what they had, and I bet even with the 2000 dodge ram Laramie slt quad cab long bed 5.2 litre 318 magnum v8 1500 4x4 I will still do the same thing.

[@robertscheibeler4026]

Tony, You missed how to fix the cap if it is incorrect. I found two easy fixes. 1) if you are blessed, loosen the vacuum advance and the tang and push it the correct direction. 2) if that is not enough, file the tooth in the cap. Like what you did by bending the tang out of the way. But I had a little safety factor for the street, not that I could ever recall the cap walking after it was latched down.

[@raiderjohnthemadbomber8666]

A big cap is much more forgiving.

[@rikubot]

You’re a genius can you build my 440 for me ;)

[@michael931]

If you have the philips trimmer then after you pull the guard off you can then pull the blade housing off. Then you can clean the drive fork.

[@honestjohn9905]

Very interesting. I never considered this. Thank you.

[@scott196464]

The rotor always points to the same position in the cap [ reguardless of mech adv] when spark is triggered , it just arrives before the crank/camshaft ,except for when vac advance moves the pickup/points plate . Vac can rod length must be correct to stay in phase?

[@ljbolin8360]

Good video, may explain my problem I'm having with my PONTIAC.

[@Lowclef]

So TONY let the dogs out! Huh!

[@daveo532]

Good old shaving accidents! Been there, done that!

[@oikkuoek]

You explained perfectly every reason why I have grown a well deserved hatred towards modern razors and classic ignition systems. Both just stop working when you start to demand some performance.. Also using a distributor cap starts to get funky even on a six cylinder, so the problems can only multiply when more cylinders are added.

[@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542]

I've had this issue repeatedly on my international [same rotor and cap as MOPARS] but it turned out in my case it was the points were not gapped properly.

[@nickbonvino]

Got a lot out of that one… thanks!!

[@ShadeTreeKennyT]

Good info as usual UT. By the way, I like your beard shorter like this, you look younger. 👌😄

[@Comet-hn3gm]

Lol, removed and replaced many Lean Burn Systems. Also limited the mechanical on many HEI distributor. Just sent this video to a friend with a 57 Vette. I know this is quite likely the problem he is having.

[@raiderjohnthemadbomber8666]

Many tonsorial styles started that way.

[@johndevries8759]

I saw this issue once when a friend broke his distributor cap on a GM small block. A buddy gave him a cap off an Accel distributor that had the locating tang in a different spot. Same issue you had. I've also seen the vacuum advance play a part in this scenario. I've checked rotor orientation by drilling holes in a spare cap between the coil wire and #1 plug wire and slotting them out so a timing light can be used to witness where the rotor is in relation to the cap posts. Having a cap like this with spare wires makes it a simple check.

[@jessecarbajal8932]

A friend found a 74 dodge charger se recently. I had it up and running in a day and a half. Thanks too your videos. He was amazed, he asked me how i knew about old dodges. I told him uncle Tony taught me..thanks uncle Tony.

[@twobeards6714]

47 years ago I took my then wife to the hospital to deliver our son. I went home to clean up and made an attempt to trim my beard and did such a bad job I ended up shaving. I walked in later to visit and she didn't recognize me. I'd always had the beard and still do. I just did a tune on mu 74 Catalina and the rotor rocked at least 10 degrees. POS.

[@easycrider7453]

Have a 71 Dodge D-100 318 2-barrel to play with now that I'm retired. Always wrenched my own vehicles and kept them running ok. Years since I've worked on points and carburated vehicles and I never new much about the workings of carbs and distributors. Thanks for all the knowledge you share. Maybe I'll be able to figure out why I can't get the old truck running.

[@Hydrogenblonde]

Something I've seen is that the contact on the rotor is not long enough creating a gap between the rotor contact and the posts in the cap. Some I have measured to be 0.095", that is 3 times the spark plug gap. Unfortunately it is difficult to measure as the cap and rotor need to be in place. I cut a piece out of a old cap to see inside while it is assembled.

[@robertcrispell1476]

echlin has a rotor with a .060" )iirc) longer blade. MO3000

[@mrbigfellanz]

You would not believe how GREAT the timing of me seeing this was. 1965 mustang with an after market ignition. You nailed my issue. Thank you.

[@scottjordan5485]

To make a phasing cap, cut open top of old distributor cap to see rotor to cap terminal alignment. Magnetic feel should line up with cap terminal.

[@richardbates2367]

Didn't gm or Ford used to sell a clear transparent distributor cap back in the 80's-90's??!

[@jessieharris1676]

The bushing in the block below the distributor drive bull gear can cause distributor issues also if it is worn.

[@craighansen7594]

Back in 1984 when I bought my 1970 340 Dart Swinger the previous owner gave me a BIG box of Prestolite caps, rotors, points, condensers and coils. All real new old stock Prestolite brand. I have been running a Direct Connection electronic system since I bought the car but have all that NOS stuff and the original 340 Prestolite dual point distributor set aside.

[@321CatboxWA]

Sorry I don't understand what your getting at ? You have all these parts that go to a distributor that has been replaced by one that is different so much so that you cant use use any of it . Set aside for what ?

[@olsketchmo]

Respectfully disagree, ONLY the Vacuum Advance changes the PHASING of the Distributor, the Mechanical / Centrifugal / Weights and Springs do NOT, only Vac Adv *OR* as you point out, how the CAP is INDEXED to the Housing. The Vacuum Advance, when it actuates, MOVES / ROTATES the "point plate" and THAT changes PHASING. The Mechanical Advance moves the "trip" (the pole piece cam lobe) relative to the Crank and does NOT change Cap Post to Rotor Button Tip to Fire position Phasing. The Angle is FIXED between the Pole Piece Point Cam and the Rotor button TIP... those 2 things rotate as one when Mechanical Advance actuates. They are moving relative to the piston stroke location in the bore. Look at it, think about, yes, it will make your head spin, and YES, it is hard to put into typed words... When Vac Adv moves the "switch" ( the points or whatever ) relative to everything else, yes, PHASING changes. Experience suggest, at Full Vacuum Advance is the ONLY TIME an stock distributor is fully correctly phased, with the rotor button tip Center aligned with a Cap Spark Plug Wire Post WHEN the "trip" (cam lobe) & "switch" (points) FIRE... It's tertiary, eh ? LOL

[@UncleTonysGarage]

You're not thinking it through. The cap is fixed to the housing. Regardless of where the spark is being triggered, the rotor will still "sweep" through its advance range, thus its position in relation to the caps contacts is always subject to change. It needs to stay within the caps contact points. The vacuum advance ONLY moves the breaker plate, and has no effect on the rotors position relative to the caps contact points.

[@olsketchmo]

@@UncleTonysGarage Irreconcilable differences ! LOL Cheers !

[@olsketchmo]

@@UncleTonysGarage The Rotor Button Tip is "Clockwise Locked" by the "Button to Shaft Key" to the Pole Piece Cam, which is a single machined piece, and which both rotate as a unit relative to the Crank with Mechanical Advance springs & weights, BUT the ANGLE between Rotor Button Tip and Pole Piece Cam Point does NOT Change ! Correct ?

[@olsketchmo]

@@UncleTonysGarage 1 - housing, 2 - cap post/plug wire, 3 - points/switch/pick-up, 4 - rotor tip, 5 - point cam lobe tip The angle is FIXED between the Rotor Tip AND the Pole piece Point Cam Lobe Tip. Mechanical Advance does NOT change that angle. Mech Adv moves/rotates BOTH Rotor Tip & Pole Piece Cam, relative to the main distributor shaft fixed into rotational relative position by drive gears to the crankshaft. Mech Adv twist BOTH together, Button & Pole Piece, relative to Crankshaft/Piston location. Assume all is correct and aligned when in "Fire" position. Mech Adv twist the Rotor Button & the POLE PIECE relative to the distributor shaft / crankshaft / piston location. The Pole Piece Point Cam now gets to the "Fire" location SOONER relative to the CRANKSHAFT / Piston Location, but PHASING has not changed, the cap post, rotor, pole piece, & points all still align correctly at the right time & Fire with everything lined up, just at an earlier point relative to crank rotation. The angle is FIXED between the Housing, Cap/Post, and Points/switch/pick-up... EXCEPT when the Vac Adv Actuates... it ROTATES the POINTS relative to everything else... it changes the PHASING. Assume all is correct and aligned when in "Fire" position. Now leave all else the same, and ONLY twist the Point/switch Plate, Spark will occur sooner, but now BEFORE the Rotor gets to the Post Only Vacuum Advance changes Phasing. Stock distributors are only fully "in Phase" when the Vacuum Advance is Fully deployed. There are other ways to change or adjust Phasing, but in a stock distributor only Vac Adv changes it. This is why when deleting Vac Adv, it is CRITICAL at what rotational location the Point/Switch Plate is anchored down in. Check Phasing with an old distributor cap with a large hole(s) drilled in it and a Timing Light to actually look at and see rotor Button to Cap Post alignment.

[@scott196464]

@@UncleTonysGarage if cap is joined to body and points plate is joined to body ,it will always fire in same position

[@robertcrispell1476]

I just watched the vid and mechanical adv will NOT shift rotor phasing. get a dist cap & drill a 1/2" hole in the top flat of the cap 2/3 of the way from the center post to the #1 cap terminal. start the engine & shine your timing light down in the hole & with the vac adv unplugged/capped, rev the engine & the rotor will not move as the mech timing advances. now set the eng at idle & plug and unplug the vac adv can into manifold vacuum & you will see that vac adv changes rotor phasing but mechanical adv does not. so instead of twisting the rotor to get the sweep of phasing change as shown in the video which is not correct, with a vac pump, pump up the can & you will notice the sweep of phasing change & you want the cap terminal close to "centered" inbetween that distance (as noted in the vid) and on a high perf app I want the rotor to be a bit closer to the dist terminal at no vac as required voltage is the greatest at WOT & I want this distance to be minimal. check this out for yourself. Robert Crispell Lincoln Nebraska.

[@oldtimerf7602]

Mopar AL, is that YOU!!???

[@Dr_Reason]

The odd fire Buick HEI cap has really unique terminals in the cap. The wires are evenly spaced but the terminals make up for it.

[@edmundanderson657]

Isnt the even fire strange too? Looks like a 8cyl missing two terminals on top but inside underneath there are bussbars added to some posts making it even 60 degs apart.

[@Dr_Reason]

@@edmundanderson657 I am not sure. Now that I think about it I may be remembering the 229 Chevy which was semi odd fire. You may be spot on. My even fires Buicks had coil packs.

[@scottjordan5485]

Make a phasing cap from an old HEI distributor cap and adjust vacuum advance with reluctor wheel & pick up module, you'll feel magnetic attraction then adjust vacuum canister so that rotor lines up with cap terminal. Best to do with distributor out of engine. Easy as that. Might have to elongate mounting screws

[@waynep343]

Vortec v6 and v8 have a bizarre rotor phasing issue. Examine the tip of the rotor. See if the burn marks are all the way across. If they are only on one corner. Check the cap. Are the cap terminals showing burn Mark's only on one side.the the 13 tooth drive gear is installed half a turn out. These are crank trigger ignition systems. The distributor housing can only be installed in one direction. Verify you have an issue. Bring the timing marks to Tdc. Look to see if the tip of the installed rotor is centered directly over the 6 or 8 mark in the top of the distributor housing. If it's like14 degrees off the gear is pinned to the shaft half a turn out.

[@gregmason6302]

Tried your suggestion of fish tank valve as carb adjustment aid. Works good. So I took that idea and applied it to my vacuum advance on a 400 ford with a stuck distributor. Rattling like hell from too much advance. Even with premium fuel. You helped me fix a problem that I've been fighting since I owned it. For 50 cents.

[@kelsycunningham8452]

I thought the problem was ... a 6 cylinder module mistakenly installed for an 8. Fuel volume. Extreme exhaust back pressure. Ask how I know all these issues 😂

[@speedy_pit_stop]

UT you consistently bring content that I don't find anywhere else. Yet, the debt of your knowledgeable never ceases to amaze me... time after time.

[@Face2theScr33n]

One time, my timing belt tensioner loosened up and the belt came off. After looking on the net, I saw a 50/50 chance the 86 Volvo B230F 2.3 4 cylinder was interference/non interference. So I hand cranked it, fingers crossed, and there was no interference. When I set the timing and fired it up, I was jumping for joy and shouting "woooohoo"! It's crazy how hard it is to get reliable info from people online. Tony is a true diamond in the rough! And yeah, I had changed the timing belt myself years prior, it was all my fault. I learned a lot from that mistake that luckily only cost me a slight panic and a few hours getting more familiar with my car.

[@smncutler]

Good on ya for keeping the intermediate shaft timed! It likes to jump out of time with the slightest touch.

[@kenleppek]

We've all been there with the electric razor buddy..... Kinda makes you look like Kyle Petty.

[@robertcrispell1476]

It is a common misconception that mech adv changes rotor phasing ( it cant because the reluctor teeth and the the rotor position are permanently clocked together, think about it). To confirm that only vac adv changes rotor phasing drill a half inch hole in the dist cap top 2/3 of the way between the center cap terminal and the #1 cap terminal. start the engine & shine your timing light in the hole on the rotor blade. with the vac adv unhooked/capped rev the engine & you will see that the rotor (phasing) does not move as the engine mechanically advances, now plug in the vac can & rev the eng & you will see that the rotor phasing moves. To correct phasing I redrill another roll pin hole in the reluctor to reclock it. There is alot of clocking space there so you can drill several times around the hole as needed till you get it dead on. With pumping the vac can clock the rotor tip so that the trailing edge of the rotor blade is even with the the trailing edge of the cap terminal as vac adv with shift it back the other way CCW (on a SB) & CW on a big block. If you are not running vac adv, on your bench with the can installed pump up the can with a vac pump till the phasing is inline dead on (rotor vertically inline with the cap terminal) with the reluctor tooth just barely starting to move away from aligned with the magnet & holding that amount of vac in the can, drill a small hole vertical through the 2 plates then disassemble the dist & clean out the shavings then reassemble with a small bolt/nut locking the 2 plates together in that position & put a spacer on the bolt inbetween the 2 plates so they will remain parallel when you tighten the bolt. you can keep the can installed in that position so to seal the opening in the side of the dist. Tony I apologize for complaining way back about you slamming parts on the bench. I was having a bad day that day! Sincerely yours: Rapid Robert