The REAL Key To Locking French Cleats?

[@txtaz74]

Great idea! Instead of dowels; however, I am going to use some of the used ammunition casings I have laying around. No cutting required and they already have a built in grove for me to grab and pull.

[@Craftswright]

That’s brilliant! I have bags full of spent .556 brass and now I’m kicking myself in the pants for not thinking of that 🤦‍♂️

[@timh.6872]

Now _that's_ the american solution!

[@ferrumitzal4584]

Hmmm, using ammo casings might just make things too sexy, though.

[@ruinunes8251]

Just genius.😂👍

[@tylerpestell]

That would look super nice too! Great idea!

[@edwardorourke5489]

I personally have used the dowel pins for over 30 years. When certain methods are forgotten, suddenly they are a new idea.

[@Craftswright]

It's the cirrrrrcle of wooooooodworking lol honestly I like the idea that this isn't an original idea and all I did is resurface something forgotten, there's a poetry to that I think

[@thriftwoods]

similar to fashion...or art. as we try to construct something useful on top of the original genius. Since I have started woodworking I get so fired up to organize my shop. The thing I love is that its a flexible creative process that allows any ideas. A lost art, but will be found soon.

[@BillCoughenour]

I watched these two videos in succession, really good stuff that you came back and tweaked your design and shared it.

[@Craftswright]

Double thanks Bill! 😁

[@MisterNiceGuy813]

Same. My comment on that last video was exactly this solution-- weirdly satisfying to see this recommended to me.

[@-ZIO]

I use wood golf T's. Cut them down to length, easy to grab and super cheep.

[@Craftswright]

That's just........super simple and smart. Bonus points if you're a golfer too because then you're adding some of that aesthetic to your shop. I dig it Zio, thanks for sharing!

[@michaelrichter9462]

I used your idea! I built a single 4' cleat setup in the basement, and three 15" square 1x4 frames to hold golf bags upright. Locked the cleats/bag frames in place with tees. My wife thought it was funny, and ironic considering we have two, one gallon ziplocs full of them.

[@CarlosFandango73]

I'm going to use it, thanks

[@raylewis1355]

Cool idea... I golf. Perfect. One question.. Do you think it would work with just one tee instead of two?

[@-ZIO]

@@raylewis1355 For me everything have use just 1 golf T except my router bit storage use 2. I have a lot of router bits.

[@sean6077]

Go a step further on the dowel method and make them out of a darker wood. Make them stand out and be a feature on each piece. I think it'd look cool. It'd sort of be like making screw hole plugs on a piece of furniture, from a darker/lighter wood, to accentuate them as a feature.

[@jimh472]

What I love more than either option is how you brought this into your channel. Collaboration is king in any creative process and making time and effort to mention other ideas is fantastic. I can't say how many times I have researched multiple solutions/designs only to be blown away by a new a approach I never considered. Mad respect. p.s. the Instagram link in your KZbin profile might be broken

[@Craftswright]

I feel ya, every time I think I’ve figured it out I stumble across an even more ingenious and simplified method. Never ceases to amaze me haha Thanks for the comment and the IG heads up!!

[@bruce-le-smith]

Hallelujah Jim, I agree the biggest take away for me is a respectful collaboration in public. Everything we do in pubic is part of a job interview in a way, and these two videos have convinced me that this is a man worth doing business with. My second biggest take away is that personally I'm going to pick the ease of use of the visible dowels over the smooth aesthetics of the hidden square cleat any day. My third take away is that I now have more designs in my knowledge base, so I'm better able to propose alternatives to friends or clients.

[@scottroy6195]

Yeah I'm going with Jeff on this one. Imagine if you used needless Walnut! Add some class to that wall.

[@GuitarJeff]

Well heck, I have been kind of putting off doing a full cleat wall but this comment and these videos. Heck yeah. No reason you can't make it look good too.

[@mcvirtual2574]

I have been looking at mass producing so i can upgrade my toolboard, and the best I've come up with and it works, is: 1-Saw the dowel in the middle just enough of a cut to embed/lay down a brad that is trimmed to stick 3mm on each side of dowel, if you can saw on the edges and leave the center alone, the sawed part is to nail the brad tru (like a targetting channel if you use the nailer that leaves some meat). Or saw straight lay it down on the cut and go to nº3. 2-Put the brad nail straight tru the dowel near the edge. 3- Add some epoxy on top of the brad/pin/wire and make sure it coats enough of the channel, sand a bit. If you didn't leave the center add a couple staples (just make sure they stay as embedded in the wood as possbile - this might be necessary for bigger diameters mine are small, so i added 1 on the prototype, didn't trust the epoxy) 4- Draw the Diameter of the dowel + the nail sticking out (about 6mm total) to the back of the fixture by carving a relief cut of that size +1mm extra or so (i used a rotary tool/dremel type with the router head- don't need to be pretty is just deep enough to hide the nail tips when you pull, leaving the back of the fixture flat) 5-Add a pull tab or a screw with the hook end/eyelet on the outside of the dowel. PS:I used a circle cut out of some plastic i had on hand instead of making the dowel like a bench dog, just glued and then the hook screw on outside. Creates a flat positive stop, not necessay if the cleat bottoms out as it should, its more for when you move it around so the dowel stays captive, and i don't plan on removing them. My shop is not fancy, if its cheap and it works it leads. -------------------------------------- I think thats it for me on this one, its simple, cheap, and uses minimal materials to get the job done. Craftswright, you probably can come up with something a bit more elegant. Hope this helps everyone to upgrade.

[@Craftswright]

Awesome breakdown and attention to detail MC! I never would have thought to make the dowel key captured in some way (otherwise I would have included it in the video) so that alone makes your comments worth their weight. Don't go anywhere, we need minds like yours in this community! Cheers friend

[@mcvirtual2574]

@@Craftswright Thank you for the kind words, hope more people see it and find it useful. I'll be glad if someone makes a video with this method, just so its out there (video tutorials are not my thing). I'm super happy with this, already made a bunch of new locks for what i have and now, no more falling tools. I did have to beef up and double on the dowels and a stronger pin for a heavy tool holder and i'm going to make some of mine like yours extending longer than i need so i have a bit more room to put the dowel locks in, that way i can lock it up or down from the tool like yours. Cheers.

[@chaplainand1]

my son and I are about to upgrade the basement shop. cleats with pins looks to be the way for us. not sure yet why two are needed, at least on a narrow or small fixture. thanks for all the tips and ideas. makers make great stuff, are profoundly good at problem solving, and I so enjoy the creativity I see on so many maker's channels. maybe use the scored dowel pins commonly used in making dowel joints. and, a bench dog and a sharp handsaw might be as quick, less noise, and even safer.

[@hallenw]

LOVE the dowel locks!! ❤️

[@jsemaj8451]

Been watching tons of videos on french cleat systems, I'm going this direction, both lock ideas are cool, I think the dowels will require less work. Thanks for the time you put into your videos.

[@keithjohnston5936]

How often does a guy publicly state that someone else’s idea was better than his own? Respect, and I’m now subbed.

[@supergoober1021]

Great idea! Thanks! It’s amazing how such brilliant “why didn’t I think of that” solutions can be so simple after someone points you in the right direction! If you don’t want the pins to show so prominently, put them against a lower cleat. They don’t need to be equidistant or even on the same cleat. Just set them to accommodate the tools you expect to hang on them.

[@_WillCAD_]

This dowel method is the best I've seen. It's simple, very easy, very cheap, and completely effective. And honestly, you don't even need to add the grip relief to the ends, just make sure that enough of the ends sticks up to grab them with fingers or a pair of pliers. I also don't think the dowels break up the clean look of the fixtures. They're an extra surface detail, to be sure, but adding a little detail doesn't necessarily make a workpiece look cluttered or less clean. Often those little details add to the aesthetics of a piece. So I like the dowels sticking out as a decorative detail.

[@keithbrock6410]

Actually starting on one of these now, this was right on time. I think I like the dowels

[@jerrymooney3616]

Just ran across your site and had to review both your videos on using french cleats. Am in the process of remodeling my shop after 20+ years and feel french cleats will really clean up my wall-space. Anyway, I liked both videos, but after watching the first I got to thinking about coming up with a simpler locking system. Too late. Jeff already figured out a simple, elegant system that I like. My comments are that while I like the wooden pins, I think for me I will cut them to a standard length [need to set up a cutoff jig as I will need dozens of these plugs - 2 per fixture], add the shallow cuts at one end for pulling on them and then stain them prior to using. A dark or contrasting color stain will add, I think, a nice contrast to the multiple and various sized fixtures back plates. As noted, I expect to make several dozen fixtures and to make the plugs look aesthetically pleasing [with or without staining], and I should also make a simple drilling jig to fit over the corner in order to place the holes the same distance from the two adjacent sides on all the fixture back plates. A benefit of using your layout overlapping the bottom of the horizontal slat above the one the fixture is hanging on. Looking forward to reviewing your other videos soon.

[@mrstephentgarrett]

You sir got a subscription from me...I've been debating on French cleats for my garage but like you stated, have concerns about them falling off...I love the dowel idea and am going to pull thr trigger on my new storage solution. Thanks bud

[@Craftswright]

Cheers Stephen glad I could help!

[@DrLavitz]

Subscribed. Short video, shows how you learned from someone else. Saw your saw horse video and this was the clincher. Great content.

[@mariajjenkins]

I like the peg better. I wasn't crazy about the look of the slit and seemed a little awkward to get in and out. But, seemed worth being able to lock. The pegs look good to me. BTW your video is my absolute fav for diy french cleats thus far and believe me I have watched quite a few. Thanks.

[@sincerelyyours7538]

I like it! I particularly like the half-moon cam idea as expressed further down in the comments. I'd also put a kerf into the visible end of the dowel oriented vertically when the cam is in the locked position. Since vertical is also the fully open position (180 degrees away) you can write two letters with a Sharpie on either side of the kerf to denote the locked position. "L | L" or "U | P" would work for this. The kerf can then be "keyed" with a wide-bladed screwdriver if it ever becomes too tight to turn by hand.

[@prcandela]

I like the idea of French cleats, they help to stay organized and keep your tools available and visible. Out of sight out of mind! The cleat key is also a good idea. The last thing you need is something coming off your beautiful wall when you're on a roll focused on a project when you grab something quick. How about a dowel key which uses a cutout piece from the top of the cleat. When turned 90 degrees swivels the cutout up to lock in its respective cleated unit. Turn back 90 degrees unlocks the unit to be moved. This approach is a safety feature used in kids' toys, for unpacking the toy, the battery compartment, this is so small pieces aren't lost or come loose. This would avoid a lot of trouble like spilling your coffee when the cup gets stuck in your cleated cup holder and the unit is pulled from the wall at the same time.

[@Craftswright]

I really love how this community comes out and shares all of their great ideas. Really neat to see different minds work and you're no exception to that Paul, thanks for the feedback!

[@mefirst4266]

DUDE YOU TOOK THIS TO A WAY HIGHER LEVEL THAN I EVER WOULD HAVE.... I LIKE IT I LIKE IT I LIKE IT !!!! MAYBE PUT A STRING ON THE DOWELS DO YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THEM WHEN YOU REMOVE THEM... OR PUT A PIECE OF METAL IN ONE END AND HAVE A MAGNET TO HANG THE DOWELS WHEN YOU REMOVE A TRAY !!!! YOU KEEP DOING THIS YOUR HAIR WILL GROW BACK !!!!

[@swampypancakes9002]

Jeff is a genius. This is perfect for what i was looking for and i have the tools to make this. Perfect!! Thank you Sir.

[@Toyotajunkie]

Both ideas are great! And I agree, a mix would probably be my favorite.

[@joewhitney4097]

Both are great ideas. Thanks for sharing.

[@thomaskila3801]

I love ideas like these! Thank you for sharing! (And thanks to Jeff, also!)

[@MySickstring]

Hey, great content. I’m gonna suggest you put a small part temporary fence on that miter saw so your dowels don’t go flying or tear out.

[@sentpacking3879]

I'm a little late to this party, and a new subscriber but these are all great ideas and something I'm going to try setting up in my "new shop" that I'm constructing. Thx.

[@stevennicholas5472]

The dowel idea is definitely a lot easier to implement. It will also prevent sawdust getting through a key recess hole.

[@deanford7407]

Great idea. You could even use a contrasting color for the pins. I saw one video where the pins were below the back rail.

[@lincolndickerson1293]

There are many options here, I made a similar suggestions to Jeff’s last time. Regardless, something soft like rubber or cork or a spring clip or maybe even cardboard on the back as the lock where it resisted but did not inhibit the removal of the fixture would be great. Then again if we put a rabbet on the lower part of the bottom wall part and a lip on the cleat so you had to push up and pull out at the same time may work as well. Personally I like the dowels where needed. Thanks, love these videos.

[@carlduggan4058]

I’m putting French cleats throughout my entire shop rebuild; the space is going to be modular and easy to modify. I’m planning for a mixture of both of these. For the components that will be moved less frequently, use the hidden lock, and the dowel for components that moved regularly

[@chrisharrell2449]

great vids, put one dowel behind the mallet handle on lower cleat then it would be hidden. for me i rarely have wood above top cleat anyway

[@frankbuckwalter9603]

I like the dowels. Supper versatile.

[@ekoell]

I agree, utilize the best of both worlds depending on the need. Both are great ideas, thanks!

[@Craftswright]

You are so welcome!

[@kovko69]

A rear slide lock moving vertically. With a little gap above, the container won't fall off. Lift up the slide via a protruding knob on the side, and push back for it to slide down and free the container.

[@michaellink6960]

How about taking one of your rectangular locks and imbedding a small cylindrical magnet in the center of the rectangular lock, (I use E-6000 cement.) Then cut a somewhat larger slot in the top center of the cleat that is sized to receive the lock. The lock than can be slid to the center of the cleat using an external magnet. Pushing up on the hanging cleat will move the lock into the slot at the top of the cleat and allow removal. The removal magnet tool can be made from a wooden knob with a magnet imbedded in it. This removal tool can be conveniently stored on a countersunk screw mounted conveniently nearby. I use 2 magnets because they create a much stronger, positive magnetic bond, allowing the lock to work flawlessly.

[@drackar]

You could do the pin system flush mount without any visible metal by either using a metal rod with a thin wood veneer glued to it, or drilling out your wood dowel and gluing, say, a cut section of ten penny nail in there. You could have a flush system that's not proud, that still comes apart with a magnet. Just use a decent neodymium magnet for your puller. That said, you could also do something similar with your original idea. Use a section of metal for your key, wax the back of the cleat "track" and you could easily have a 1" metal key that would fit most anywhere you could pull into place for a completely seamless look.

[@zbnmth]

If you take a single pin with a slant face on the side, and drill a single hole ever so slightly overlapping with the wall cleat (above or below the hanging cleat), you can eliminate play.

[@Poppy_love59]

I came across a number of cheap wooden chess games. The Pawns glued to a dowel work great !

[@LPCliftonMusic]

Both ideas seem effective. I would assume you could incorporate both in conjunction with each other.

[@Itsjustbeau]

That is genius and the best in my opinion I'm using it

[@eikpedersen]

Try to make a cam lever on the back side of the tool holder. It should tigthen against the underside of the wall piece. It doesn't even have to be visible looking from the front. Just put your finger in behind the tool holder too loosen or tigthen the cam lever. I hope you understand what i mean😊

[@MucaroBoricua]

I prefer a single "key" flush with the faceplate and a slot on the exposed end of the dowel so it can be turned with a screw driver or a real key to rotate a cam behind the faceplate that would lock the fixture snug against the top cleat. That's the most elegant solution I came up with in the days I had French cleats in my garage before I went from 2D organization to 3D organization.

[@diegozimmerman8261]

I like the original Idea best. I make things around the house for others to use and I am concerned about the rearranging of the items without talking to me first. The dowel method is fantastic.

[@migueldeangel46]

I like the pins.

[@HunterValleyDan]

G'day from Australia! Just found your channel and really enjoying your videos. IMHO, I think Jeff has you beat.. :) Only due to the simplicity of making the keys and the way they function. I like the look of the dowels, as it is still wood-on-wood. But I don't think using metals or plastic keys would look any good at all. Even contrasting wood dowels would still look great. Cheers. Dan.

[@WagonLoads]

At 0:29 the unit on the right has a cut out for a separate key to slide into, but my thought is to make the key sit in the cut out. Then fit the key flush to the front of the slot and drill a hole into the top edge through both parts. Then insert a pin for the key to pivot on. Press on the right side of the pivot to lock and the left side of the pivot to unlock. This method has no parts to lose.

[@terrystephens1102]

Great idea, thanks😃👌👏👏👏

[@kevinparker9407]

I like the hidden lock idea but I'd build it so it could be held in place by a wood sprung lever latch, flush with the side. Finger pushes it down to unlock. I'm thinking a piece of 1/4 ply running horizontally the width of the fixture at the rear fixed to a block on one side. The locking piece is fixed on top of this strip of ply around halfway(?) along. Your finger could press the ply strip down which releases the lock. Spring tension locks it in place. No losing tiny bits of wood under the workbench etc.

[@juanrendontorres174]

Yo! Go with the magnet thing! It's way cooler than any dowel!

[@KennySchank]

Rather than making the little finger grooves, you could also potentially drill a hole through the side of the down and thread a key ring through it. It might not look as inconspicuous, but it would be much easier to pull and a you could store extras neatly. Plus you can buy 50 of them for around $5.

[@ecomancer007]

@Craftswright Not sure if this will be seen or if it will properly ping your messages. To lock in the French Cleat and have it hidden you could keep the dowel flush with the face but use a slightly larger dowel, something that requires your drill hole to enter the cleat on the piece its self. On the back side of the dowel, remove half of the dowel making it a 1/2 turn pin. That way it sets flush with the tool surface yet you only have to rotate it 1/2 turn to lock / unlock

[@Z-add]

Instead of dowel use a bolt that you can screw by hand. You only need to do a couple of turns to lock and unlock. Plus you won't loose them. That bolt can go on the cleat side as well.

[@metavinci427]

How about slipping a dowel (full width of cleat wall) in from the end of the wall cleat above the fixture cleat. It May not work with wider cleat wall set ups but would be fine for the one you demo on.

[@royhennecke470]

Like your videos always improving

[@nelsonhochberg5182]

Locate the locking dowel pin at the bottom of the wall cleat. Now you can lock the fixture to the top wall cleat or use only one wall cleat. You also don't need to extend the fixture up past the fixture cleat and the wall cleat vertical spacing can doesn't have to be uniform.

[@Craftswright]

Good idea Nelson and thank you

[@jackh.4016]

@@Craftswright Of course, as has been said earlier, where you can put the dowel depends on the design of yopur fixture

[@ryanandres2551]

Could a neodymium magnet be inserted into a cut slot in the dowel. This would preserve the wood face look and allow the dowel to be flush with the work.

[@jimlad01]

I'd also vote for a single dowel in the middle, however I'd also reconsider why they get knocked off in the first place - presumably it's because you pull something out of the one below and this knocks the one above. Would a design tweak address this (stuff gets pulled out more horizontally) so holders are more considered and taking this into account. Just a thought, thanks for the video.

[@MCarberry89]

What about a magnetic slide lock behind the shelf that drops into an opening to allow removal. The opening would be a small pocket on the bracket with a piece of wood so it couldn't fall out when moving the shelf.

[@EliCarter]

I would think a lock slot would a good idea. Every row has 2 notches at the end and when you slide it over flush it is locked in. But it does limit how many you can add per row. But it would be an easier to add and remove system.

[@michaelmurphy4013]

Make a taper on the dowel and offset the hole a bit closer to the above cleat. Solid mount, no jiggle. Or twist like a cam lock.

[@Shadowhawk27]

Slight tweek to Jeff's idea, how you saying about a magnet, drill a hole in the back of the dowels and add a screw that way and then cut the heads off flush?

[@TheWeirdSide1]

This gave me idea to incorporate a spring mechinism somehow...So I push upwards against spring and remove from lip. Maybe Craftswrite can make it so I don't have to:P

[@charminglad124]

Go with key method but you could use the dowel as well by putting the dowel into the key, that way you can slide the key in and out with the dowel..the dowel might be smaller as well

[@jackh.4016]

It would sort of look like a sliding bolt lock.

Funny. I made a similar suggestion in the previous video before seeing this one. 😂

[@Corianas_]

I would have gone for a half circle and a twist motion, so when it is one way, there is pressure holding it in, then with a quick twist of a coin or flathead, unlock and move/relock.

[@Silv3rDragon]

You could even use the dowel idea on walls with farther spaced cleats by moving the dowels to lock on the underside of the cleat the fixture is hanging on rather than the underside of the cleat above (as shown in this video). By going under the cleat the fixture is hanging on you could even do that on a wall that only has one cleat on it. If you build your fixtures around this, you could even hide the dowel behind what you are hanging with it. I also really like the knob and 180 degree rotation that another viewer mentioned.

[@1701odin]

If you really wanted it to blend, glue a wood veneer over a metal rod and use a strong magnet to pull it out. Make them flush with the hanging piece when installed. Otherwise what another poster said about using a disc that rotates behind the piece. You could also use a spring-loaded piece on the back if you wanted. It would prevent casual pulling down of tools from taking the whole hanging piece with you. You could even build it so it holds against the bottom, so that the lifting up of tools won't move it at all. The only issue with that would be at some point your tool would be too heavy. But lots of options.

[@andrewbrown8148]

Nice upgrade to the previous, but I also like the hidden aspect of the original keys. Maybe use the dowel/round keys for fixtures situated in the between spots around the cleat wall for filling gaps among other fixtures. Just my 2 cents worth... Great video and say Hi to a new subscriber~!! :-)

[@Craftswright]

Good idea!

[@HeyStripes]

i like the dowel option more. easier access = easier use

[@edreusser4741]

A suggestion? Add a small piece of board the width of the attachment that hides the dowels... and why use dowels? Just a square piece of wood would work equally well. And do you really need 2 of them? I agree that a combination of your lock and Jeff's lock is the best.

[@calebcain4729]

Maybe this is complicating things (Probably) but what about a pivoting key that lays flush in the middle of the french cleat (Not the part on the wall, of course) with a short screw embedded to actuate it with a magnet?

[@vonSchwartzwolfe]

I did not see this yet when I posted on your other video. 😀

[@Craftswright]

Lol no worries

[@Corlock78]

I mean, I think if you use dowels of a different material, either darker wood, or metal, you can make it look like intentional design. Heck, do darker dowels with a steel pin imbedded, and you can have the pins flush and removable with a magnet. Maybe just install screws and cut them flush. Will kind of make it look like each fixture has eyes. Might be good for a child's room.

[@Koto-Sama]

i would use a rotating half circle. so that i can't lose those pins XD would probably add quite a bit of complexity

[@brucematthews6417]

Just found this video and watched the earlier one too. A possibly even easier and faster method would be to replace Jeff's dowels with 1/4x3/4 or 6mm/20mm set screws. Thread them into slightly small holes and the screws will self thread into place and the light friction holds them secure. To remove the item off the cleat simply screw out the set screws so they don't stick out in the rear. They stay fastened into the plate so no losing them. And when set you only see two small dark holes. And if those holes sit behind a tool handle you don't even see that much.

[@curiousforwisdom2495]

Why not try Jeff's idea but with the screws from the backside (backwards) of the dowels? That way they still only show wooden the face, can be flush, and pulled out with the magnet. It will just look like screw covers

[@littlemstr]

Why not drill a small hole for the magnet into the dowel and put a small cap or vaneer over it so it sits flush but can be pulled out with a magnet. Or drill the hole from the opposite end so no cap or vaneer needed. Or something along the lines of a domino for a wider area on a single key.

[@Craftswright]

If you have a domino that would work perfect. As for the magnet idea, I thought of that as well but ultimately decided it’s too much effort for the return. BUT, if one were to make a really fancy French cleat area out of hardwood for a display or something then I think that hidden magnet idea would be ideal!

[@neilspurr7149]

I use an oval disk on a screw pivot place cleat on wall use screw driver to turn disk 90 degree to lock

[@Jevandtieriel]

I live both versions. I don’t move my positions around a lot so I prefer the hidden keys.

[@apburner]

Mount Jack chain in the center of the dowels and attach them to you lose them.

[@beargun42]

I ended up adding a single screw to each holder, on mine.

[@Craftswright]

If that aesthetic fits with your shop I think that's a perfectly awesome solution and there's nothing wrong with it!

[@tighecrovetti2844]

As an aesthetic, why not connect the two dowels with a "bridge." Would turn it into just one "key," but you'd still have the left/right balance by only have one thing to remove. The "bridge" would be easier to grab and would lessen the chance of your dropping one of those small pins, where of course it would dash into the farthest corner of your shop under the heaviest work table.

[@Confederatemule]

For me the dowel with a flush screw or a steel rod would be much better. The reason being that I have only one thumb. A magnet would do an excellent job of removing the dowels.

[@ropersonline]

Or you could take a thin wooden slat, as wide as the piece to be mounted, chamfer both its top and bottom edges, use either folded duck tape or little hinges to attach it behind the mountable piece in the space your key would otherwise go in, chamfered side towards the wall, and as long as the slat goes all the way from side to side and you leave a finger's width besides the mounted piece, you could just flip that slat forward with a single finger from either the left or right. This would leave the front entirely clean and unblemished. Feel free to make a video or ask if unclear.

[@ICUNA22]

Possibly a little simpler...use only a single dowel. And it doesn't have to be centered or at the top. You're just keeping the fixture from moving upward, so the dowel key could be anywhere on the fixture that clears loading/unloading. Yeah, I know, I'm a late commenter. Nathan

[@jerrydempsey5428]

I'm fairly new to french cleats but so far I haven't had a problem with the cleats falling off the wall, so I don't see a need for a locking system. Maybe I'm in for an awakening. lol

[@casestudymtb]

An angled slot that allows for a knob on the front and a small block on the rear (fastened with a screw) such that as you move the knob along the slot (which slopes upward toward the upper rail) the block pinches the upper rail enough to capture the cleat. A small relief notch in the angled slot allows for the knob to remain in place. To release, lift up the knob out of the notch and slide the assembly back down the slot, releasing cleat. The only thing that bugs me about your systems so far are the loose parts, the goal here would simply be to illiminate the need for those loose parts while still using the same principle. Nevermind @Crushonius Cam system seems easier to execute

[@martinoamello3017]

My shop is a workshop, not a gallery of art so I'm unconcerned with a lot of aesthetics in the shop. I much prefer function over form in the shop. Outside the shop is another story. I haven't built a french cleat wall yet, but still might. The pretty details though? Ehhh.. My formerly nice pretty bench is generally chewed up with all kinds of spills and other messes.. I'm definitely not going to worry about how a storage box stuck to the wall is going to look to some..I dunno..wall critic?

[@678friedbed]

why do you need 2 pins? one should be sufficient. also I would notch both ends for grabbing so you don't have to worry about what end you stick in.

[@wannabefunnyman]

Why not make it a feature and use accent color wood?

[@shootermann8616]

Only 1 dowel on center is necessary to prevent accidentally removing fixtures.

[@GPDIY]

Very good idea.

[@Craftswright]

Thanks GP DIY!

[@GPDIY]

@@Craftswright You are welcome. Keep it up.

[@danakhoyi]

I'm not really a fan of french cleats at all, I've found that I really don't move the fixtures around. So I just screw my fixtures to the wall. With that I'm not constrained by the cleat positions, I can mount the fixtures at arbitrary positions vertically as well. Moving a fixture is just unscrewing it and putting it somewhere else.

[@Craftswright]

Definitely nothing wrong with that method Dana, I've even seen some people just screw fixtures directly to plywood walls. But my weird head has a problem making up it's mind so I like the modularity. I still think it's pretty cool how many different ways there are to do things in woodworking and how we each have what works for us. Thanks for the comment!

[@hiervi]

From another corner of the nett i hear the cries: THERE IS ALWAYS A JEFF! Why do i necro and what is a Jeff you might ask? A Jeff is smarter than you, he did everything before, hes not afraid to tell you, and depending on the Jeff, he is insufferable. Imagne getting told how a elevator works on a Star Trek convention. This one seam like a nice guy thoug. On the "why necro", just found your chan and thumbs up, and the Jeff joke ofc.

[@nancyouellette6425]

Pins for my application🧘✌️

[@TARWERG]

Hell yeh that's a good idea

[@DnvnKane]

If you prefer the hidden look of the sliding key why not just make one long key for each cleat? Pull it from the side, make whatever adjustments you need to on that row, then slide the key back

[@MrDeNoe]

1 dowel pin on the bottom wil work too