The "Right" Tool for the Machining Job - Part 2

Well this tool saved my butt! Had to machine the end of a long shaft and this "new to me" right angle head that I recently purchased at an auction did the trick!
Speaking of tricks: how do you "easily" program the Tormach to act like a horizontal? A find / replace in text edit worked for me. Who's got a better way?
Example of Right Angle Head: amzn.to/1rTAAQ1
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[@jimmilne19]

The text edit search and replace was great. I can't imagine an easier way. Thanks for that one. Good video program. Thanks for sharing.

[@chucksmalfus9623]

2 observations one you need to still use the drawbar with the angle head which may be the rattling you hear and I believe the poor surface is due to not climb milling.

[@jtkilroy]

Well done, one upside to not having an enclosure is hanging long parts off the side of the table, not possible in the Tormach setup.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi John, There is always a way out, what ever it is... Yours is another tool under your belt, even I don't have CNC in my shop some of your findings I used to help solving my problems. Thanks for sharing, Pierre

[@pierresgarage2687]

Just about everything but, conventional, milling, lathe, surface grinder, band saw, milling bit sharpener, drill press, also welding machines Mig and Tig, box break, bende, etc... But no CNC, I've got only the basics to program G code and a few month on setting CNCs, Short I'm not good at it and at 60 not planing to be. Though I'm interested in what others do with those machines, Take care, PIerre

[@FredMiller]

Wonderful Wednesday Widget !! Thanks for the experience...

[@jeremiahavery8268]

Oh man! I can just try to imagine wrapping my mind around programming that haha.

[@josephgerads9057]

On my right angle drive I machined a new shaft with a TTS collar or you could machine the R-8 down and install the Tormach TTS collar. The spindle nose is to short on the Tormach to fully engage the R-8. Installed Hi speed bearings, backlashed the gears, and a hi grade gear lube, it really cuts the noise down. For simple programing I just use Cut 2D and swap the axis. Great vids keep them coming.

[@josephgerads9057]

I sent you an email with a pic. if you need the dimension let me know.

[@josephgerads9057]

NYC CNC just sent you email with the dim. You are free to use as you wish.

[@Warmachinellc15]

I think the horizontal setup would be great with a slitting saw too.

[@Warmachinellc15]

Good idea with the find and replace, never had to swap an axis but I wondered how it would be done. Also couldn't you have used the Haimer to indicate that piece?

[@Liberty4Ever]

Wow. It didn't take you long to find a use for that right angle head you bought at auction.

[@Browndog1930]

I think the head is loud because you never tightened the collet in the spindle, only tightened the screws on the side.

[@TAWPTool]

Very nice! I don't remember how long you've been using it, but I love that lapel mic!

[@TAWPTool]

NYC CNC It was at about 10:00 in part one. First shot of the Tormach with your back to the camera. I thought that you were dubbing the audio, then I saw you talking and noticed the lapel mic. Sounds great!

[@chucksmalfus9623]

Thanx for the reply, really like your vids .. If the draw bar doesn't reach it means the input shaft on the angle drive is not seating in the spindle, you risk doing serious damage to your beautiful machine running that way, I'm assuming it is a standard R8 . maybe the nose on the Tormach is longer than a Bridgeport?

[@JTZshokunin]

Really cool man, maybe it was just me, but did you check the lube in the right angle spindle? I thought it sounded a little dry....I could be totally wrong. (PS: I love the punny title.)

[@Regnarrussell]

Looks like Tormach uses Mach3 for its control software. You can make a new machine profile and just swap the Z and X axis in ports and pins. You will not have to change anything in the Gcode and this will also allow you to setup Machine Safe Limits for when the right angle head is attached. Hardest part would be picking the right Profile when you start machining. If it was me I would make 2 more profiles 1 for the right angle head pointing left and 1 for it pointing right. Lol you mentioned it in the video it was crazy......but to be honest way easier and safer for the machine.

[@m98custom1212]

NYC CNC You could make a new post for your cam software also. If you're the only programmer then shouldn't worry about picking the wrong post.

[@Regnarrussell]

What I would do is make a copy of the .XML file that you are currently running. Put it on a thumbdrive and store in a safe place. Make another copy of the XML file and this time rename it to "Right Angle Head" Open this profile which should be exactly the same as what you have now. Adjust the ports and pins, max speed and machine soft limits for the right angle had and save those settings. You should have the same settings just different Z and X axis. More info in the manual Chapter 5.7 .

[@jpmorgan187]

possible to chuck that square stock in your tormach lathe?

[@markrich3271]

John Now do you need to go into G18 -G19 (forgot what plane it is) or No because of the right angle head. Ive have been thinking of doing some work like this but flipping my head 90 degrees with my 4th axis but im not sure if I would have to change my working plane . I say throw a stone on the tormach and do some precision surface grinding.

[@markrich3271]

NYC CNC I grind on my knee mill and lathe all the time sometimes my cnc. I would of purchase a surface grinder but I dont have one inch of room left in my garage. I want one so bad. I cover everything very well and have a made up shop vac attachment . I get a great finish . I use painters tape clear plastic. Ive yet to have problems.

[@justinfoto]

are you conventional milling on purpose?

[@sharpx777]

very cool - nice workaround just wondering, how is that head lubricated (do you pump it with grease or does it have an oil bath of sorts)? sounded a little dry, could be the cam mic and I'm sure you checked but just in case.

[@TomWalterTX]

NYC CNC It's probably dried old solid grease.... Scrap it all out, clean everything, and repack 1/3 of the housing with some Mobil Grease SHC220 -- good synthetic recommended by my friendly tribologist.

[@sharpx777]

NYC CNC yeah, probably dried/old like Tom said and safer to have a look before too late - had the same issue with the apron gears when I bought my 14x40 lathe, they were all covered in grease but all of it was off the teeth and almost solid, converted it to an oil bath and don't have to deal with it anymore. Or maybe is not broken in yet.

[@Mikemaat1]

Why did you decide not to climb mill the piece? Do you think this contributed to the surface finish? Also, you may be able to actually leave your gcode as-is and declare a G19 (if i recall correctly) at the beginning of your file. I had to do something similar when using the mill as a vertical lathe and mounting a gang tool plate in my vise (except i believe i used a G18....if memory serves me)

[@pitstoptr3]

Had the same question. Why didn't you climb cut the piece?

[@makoapalos7439]

not a machinist (actually im a high school student) but could the poor finish be from doing a conventional cut rather than the usual Climb cut that you do?

[@NONAMESLEFTNONE]

I don't think you need to repeated type G01 'coordinate'. After the first G01 you can just enter the coordinates (x17, y4, z0; etc). Or are you doing that for detailed narration?

[@NONAMESLEFTNONE]

NYC CNC (I've never even entered G01, to tell you the truth.) Feels good to give back (just a little). :)

[@krazziee2000]

nice

[@tianlun2001]

nice mod, by the way what is material?

[@tianlun2001]

thanks...

[@yanwo2359]

Very interesting! Sure would be nice if you could turn off "autounfocus." :)

[@laurentcnc6662]

Very nicely done ! Congrat ! If you can go on my channel you will see a new project that will surely interest you