The Router Bits -Using Lock Mitre Jointing Bits

Lock Mitre Jointing Bit
www.timbecon.c...
Lock Mitre Joinery is easy with these Torquata Lock Mitre Jointing Bits from Timbecon. Patrick Holcombe shows us to how set up, and gives us a few tips to boot...
Lock mitre bits are designed to create corner joints at a 90° angle where the apex of the joint is barely visible. This joint makes it easier to assemble boxes and larger carcass work pieces together and significantly increases joint strength by increasing the gluing surface area.
Lock mitre bits are run similarly to glue joint bits except that one piece is run vertically and the other horizontally against the fence. To setup, get scrap work pieces that are the same thickness and set the centre line of the bit with the centre line of the work pieces. Run both work pieces and fit together. If they do not match perfectly then adjust the router bit up or down to get it closer and re-run the setup pieces until you get a perfect joint then you can run your actual work pieces.If you are regularly using that thickness of timber then save the scrap to make it quicker and easier to setup next time.
These bits must be used in a router table with fence.

[@daledavis2160]

cannot believe you get no tear out with your minimal feather board set up. Short fence for vertical cut with just those flimsily feather boards. I guess that's the magic KZbin video.

[@timbeconaus]

No magic. Just brand new cutters and a well seasoned professional making the cut.

[@coffeedudeguy]

The table leg construction is really nice, fantastic use!

[@onetalentedman2822]

I use only 19 mm stock or sheeting material with a router and mitre lock bit permanently set up correctly set. Cutting each mould in two cuts using the step method with hard bourd attached to fence with double sided carpet tape for first cut removed for second cut. I machine many 4 foot lengths at a time cutting to size as & when needed. Purchased just for that reason of box making or draws. The investment of a new router and table certainly has paid off with several sets just for there own router cutter use. 46 years of cabinet making behind me with no more wasted time & timber setting up accurate cuts. Purchasing only the best routers and cutters also will pay for there selves producing high standard of workmanship that demands a high price from customers in return.

[@arfonia]

Great vid....Loved it....Very helpful....Thanks!.....Skully UK. Stay Safe 😀👍

[@timbeconaus]

Thanks Skully! Glad you enjoyed it. Stay safe! Things are tough over there in the UK at the moment and we are thinking about you all.

[@kyumanhan2666]

Your explanation is very clear!

[@LiloUkulele]

Showing how to adjust the bit if the miter is out would be helpful

[@AngeliqueKaga]

Well done, you make a great project.

[@timbeconaus]

Thanks Angelique!

[@ladykenja2700]

- Nice project. Great tool to profile your wood.

[@colinwillmott6310]

Today I priced the Infinity set up jig and OMG the price was staggering!!, well infinity by name, infinity by price

[@timbeconaus]

Yes, Colin, they aren't cheap. That's true. But they are certainly time saving. Depending on what you're doing, and how much of it you're doing, things always become relative.

[@chrisconstantinou349]

I hear ya mate, I bought the jig and thought I was getting the bit also and when I opened the envelope I was like... It is very useful though.

[@RiaanOliver]

That is one awesome tool. Cheers buddy.

[@AndyUK-Corrival]

Tbh once you have spent time setting up once and cut a nice joint it is easy to keep the pieces as a template for setting up again. Not so easy if you want an offset mitre or differing thickness timber but can save the cost of a tiny bit of aluminium.

[@dirkvercauteren1876]

Hello there, nice video. A tip: do not mill the tips sharply, as they get damaged during milling by pressing them against the table or the guide. You then have to update them. Leave a minimum of flat float, 0.2 - 0.3 mm. is sufficient. After the sanding, the corners are nicely delineated. Best regards.

[@timbeconaus]

Thanks Dirk.Very much appreciated!

[@IBOXPAPA]

Just like using a backer board, neither are needed if you are careful.

[@IBOXPAPA]

Thanks!! Nice plug for the Lock Miter Master!! Sorry you guys have to pay such high prices for stuff from the US. I heard reports of same about my other product, the INCRA IBOX.

[@stprince7]

Yes the infinity mitre lock jig is way expensive but saves you time and fidly test cuts. Time is money they say.

[@LiloUkulele]

yep, too expensive. If you know how to adjust when to miter is off, makes life easy. I keep a piece thats previously been cut and use it a a guide. I ALWAY run a test cut...I'm not going to run the stock for 30 drawers without a test cut...I don't care what gizmo you overpaid for...jajaja

[@cobberpete1]

Perth shop only had the 9-12mm bit in stock. That's ok because I was making a 10mm draw. They did not have the jig, but on seeing the price I think I will do without. BUT, it would be nice Patrick, if you would do a short follow up on how to set the bit up manually as it was not clear at all in the video.

[@RADCOMJ1]

I love that router bit....i will definitely get one. Can you do a piece on your mitre saw dust cover?

[@chrisconstantinou349]

Great video, very well done. I have purchased the jig and mitre bit and was wondering with the four pieces that you put together what would be the next step if I wanted to add a top and bottom (or sides depending on how it is orientated)?

[@shanehertzog5812]

Patrick with this steel router table i like this router table . Question what is the way you clean this router table stop rust.? Does timbercon sell topcoat.?

[@simon4043]

Can you join planks together to make a flat board with this bit, as an alternative to tongue and groove? Ps, PLEASE wear ear muffs. Noise induced hearing loss and tinnitus is NOT curable! (I'm an ear doctor)

[@triggerthesound767]

you showed us one brief moving closeup shot of one joint of the first piece. Not too convincing. With that big pencil line did you get it perfect the first time or did you have to adjust a tiny bit? The square timber item you showed next how would you slide the whole length of it with glue on it when it fits so well. sorry I’m just a bit skeptical about this whole deal.

[@williammagee7514]

You mentioned that there may be Lock Miter bits that will work with 9mm lumber. If they do exist could you point me to them, thanks.

[@inversusster]

…I may have overlooked some comments, but I cannot find a website with information regarding where to purchase the set up tool. Can someone re-post the website…best! Thank you, regards!

[@timbeconaus]

Hi! Thanks for your comment. The link below the video is still working. But to make your life easier, here it is: www.timbecon.com.au/torquata-lock-mitre-jointing-router-bits

[@RioRoundup]

On the infinity jig what are the additional lines for? There is the centering line but no explanation the others are there for. Any idea?

[@IBOXPAPA]

The short lines are for making off-set lock miters, where the miter line is on one or the other side of the the actual corner, or rabbeted lock miters that allow you to insert a square or rectangular corner piece. I primarily designed those so there would be a solid corner if you are using lock miters to attach solid wood face frames or drawer fronts to ply boxes. It works great! Just remember to make the miter cut with the face frames in the vertical position! How do I know this?! ? There is a downloadable manual with instructions and diagrams on the Infinity website that shows how to do that and make other non-traditional lock miter joints- even in boards of different thicknesses. The Lock Miter Master is a great little jig. As the inventor (US Patent No. 9,682,492) and someone really familiar with the jig, I use a marking gauge and take a little more care marking the centerline on my boards than the OP.

[@splashpit]

Once it's glued and set can you use the same bit to put a bottom in the box ? I realise there would be some delicate chisel work in the corners but I'd be keen to watch it done .

[@IBOXPAPA]

No, but if you want a thick bottom, you can cut the lock miters for the bottom before assembly. That is how I've made a few bookcases. I use lock miters to join the box top, bottom, and sides and also attach the faceframes (yes, corners require a little chisel work).

[@MrRalphla54]

I was thinking this could be useful for building a coffered ceiling any thoughts

[@philipdevenish9416]

Why did you not show end grain cuts which you would have to use making a drawer.

[@Hagg506]

I used an infinity bit and kept getting a large amount of tear out. I think it may have been my router speed. Did you adjust the speed of your router? Thanks in advance.

[@data357]

Just saw a similar video from the US where he said you get tear out if the grain is going the wrong way and it can happen just in a section of the stock, but to get around it he put a bit of 4mm stock against the fence and then ran the timber so it took 4mm less out, then removed the 4mm stock and did another cut to the full depth. Basically he was just doing a part depth cut first and then a full one.

[@RioRoundup]

You can also, if possible, rout a longer piece of stock and trim off the tear out.

[@barryturner2702]

Shame the price to ship to the UK is almost the same as the unit price....!! Thanks anyway, Oh BTW the timbecon link is dead...

[@timbeconaus]

Hey Barry, thanks for letting us know about the link. Its fixed now. Much appreciated. Sorry about the shipping price. Its out of our hands unfortunately.

[@stevekis3643]

What is your router table setup?

[@karansingh-qg6my]

Please give me link for bye lock miter bit

[@timbeconaus]

Hi Karan! We had not noticed that the link had changed. Thank you. We have now put the correct link underneath the video. Please let us know if you have any further concerns.

[@karansingh-qg6my]

Here s not available lock miter bit in th market

[@timbeconaus]

What do you mean, Karan? @@karansingh-qg6my

[@azhotrock]

Good video..... get rid of the scrap for music, I didn't come to you site to be insulted with such trash for music.

[@zaneh6224]

J. Stuts Wow insulted by the music, did you pay to come here ?, plenty of other sites for you to go to not be insulted.