The Ultimate Epoxy Competition--Which Epoxy is the Best?

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you all very much for the positive comments and for the future video ideas! Here's a list of the products tested. Recommend shopping around for the best possible price. Thanks again and best regards, Todd Gorilla: amzn.to/2QgH2pr JB Weld Original: amzn.to/31lCDIg JB KwikWeld: amzn.to/3j2qWMz JB Weld Extreme Heat: amzn.to/2Emz5fH Devcon: amzn.to/2QfKbWm Loctite: amzn.to/3giAPE9

[@jacobmiller7175]

Project Farm hey I hope all is well! May be an old video, and sounded like you had a sore throat or at least something was off. Anyways, I’ve watched a lot of your videos and have found them incredibly helpful. I always search your channel first when I get into a project and am using a product that is new to me. Finally, take care and keep up the great work!

[@johnostrovsky6193]

I'm impressed with your thourrouness in all your tests.

[@sang3Eta]

My Gorilla epoxy went funny about a year after opening its like it doesn't want to set. Not quickly anyway. Ive never had an epoxy do that before. I liked that it was clear though. Well slightly yellow.

[@elizabethbalderas3012]

&

[@aviatorofpeace4184]

If you were going to epoxy an enamel badge to zippo lighter which would you recommend.. so far my research leans towards 'Loctite Metal Epoxy' Please help if you can.. the sentimental value of both these objects is through the roof.

[@hardlyb]

As far as I'm concerned this is one of the two or three most useful channels on KZbin. Consistently useful information, good tests, total transparency. You test, and then I take advantage of your tests when I purchase.

[@colteng9721]

Exactly, started watching this guy a long time ago and I knew he'd definitely reach at least a million subs if he kept producing content

[@hyd119]

What are the other useful channels? I love recommendations.

[@kahal510]

Right? I just started watching this channel two days ago, and I'm surprised by how good it is. Consistent testing and honest product reviews. Not to mention the occasional mechanic gore video where he spoon-feeds an engine sand.

[@hyd119]

Thanks. Don't forget AvE. His channel has taught me so much.

[@KayAteChef]

@@hyd119 If you want to make something out of timber, Pask Makes. If you want to learn about restoring old broken devices, my mechanics. If you want to learn about Space, David Butler. If you want to learn about Electronics then GreatScott! or EEVBLOG. If you want to learn about Neolithic pottery and tool making techniques, Primitive Technology. If you want to learn about Global Warming, potholer54. If you want to learn about visual effects and hoaxes, Captain Disillusion.

[@TomD1999]

Speaking as an engineer, your videos are consistently the best thought out and executed tests I've seen on youtube. I also appreciate the straight forward delivery without all the forced-over-the-top-personality injections so common.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@MrBallbreakers]

@wranglerstar

[@merlin4514]

Also, as another engineer, I agree with TomD that your tests are well planned and most complete of any I see on youtube. As Jack Webb would say, "just the facts". I was looking for more high strength epoxy and this prevented me from wasting effort trying the new high temperature JB Weld. The old JB Weld remains my first choice for this kind of job although I use lots of other epoxies in woodworking and boatbuilding.....TomL

[@charlottehall6769]

What epoxy is good for a cracked plastic shelf that holds a glass fridge shelf?

[@TomD1999]

@@charlottehall6769 Don't think I'd use an epoxy for that situation. There are glues made especially for plastic, like pvc glue, model glue, etc. You'd have to take the shelf out for the repair.

[@sean8081a]

I just did a quick check, JB weld original tensile strength 3950psi, devcon 2500psi, other quick setting epoxies ~ 1500psi, so your tests are spot on. You showed what these numbers mean in real life situations, great video, thanks!

[@ProjectFarm]

Awesome! Thank you very much!

[@nafnaf0]

an actual steel weld has a tensile ultimate strength of ~58,000psi

[@Deanrite]

I am from the autobody industry and we use some amazingly strong panel bonding adhesives. All the adhesives require the adhesives to be scraped into the sand scratches for greater adhesion. This is to provide a greater surface area to adhere to. That could be part of why some didn't adhere to the base metal. Most all the panel bonding adhesives have similar strength and adhesion properties and have been crash tested. The one product that I found to have exceptional strength was a special BMW adhesive designed for their weldless body joints. Normally, splice joints are welded, but with this adhesive it's strong enough to take the stress of an open joint with a backing. To finish the joint, it must be filed or ground to contour finishing. It literally dulls grinding disks. Amazing stuff, but very expensive. I can't remember exactly the product number, but I'm sure a call to BMW would work. A note, adhesives generally are weak where they can peel or high heat.

[@morpheus_9]

Karl Lentz you are a fucktard

[@geoffflato9918]

From memory (I could be a bit off) loctite e-120hp (not a hardware store stuff, cartridge epoxy intended for aerospace use) is more like 9000psi

[@adrianmiller8916]

Thanks. 5 years later...and your video is still helping people.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@MrPhatties]

Just looked it up today after the construction adhesive test 😅

[@weekendweldingprojects9302]

I bought a boat with a cracked block, I just drilled the ends of the crack and ground the surronding areas to bare metal and smuckered on some JB-Weld, 6 years later still not a single issue with the repair. JB-Weld gets my vote

[@ProjectFarm]

Impressive repair!

[@boysrback5690]

Had a corner of aluminum intake manifold break off half of bolt hole. Couldn't find piece that broke off so drilled two small 3/16 holes wallered out a little either side 1/2" deep bent 3/16 threaded rod into u shape fill holes JB weld insert u rod made form around it fill with JB weld mixed with fiberglass strands insert 3/8" x 1" spring, washer and bolt with teflon tape wrapped on it screwed in a little let sit for 2 days took manifold back off bolt came out easy from teflon. Sanded edges cleaned painted with little silver heat paint. Installed intake back torque bolts etc. Figured it would last a couple days to a week then crack at bolt. Nope still working no leaks etc 7 years later. Only reason I did it I had everything easy to work on and flat broke waiting till next payday and find new manifold or get it welded. 1988 chevy Suburban 350 JB weld is the best.

[@drizler]

My 4.4 mercruiser got a freeze crack on the outside of the head in 2005. I ground it stop drilled and hit it with Devcon. It’s still running fine 800+ hours later.

[@yeahright9014]

@@boysrback5690 Damn, man, that's a beautiful story...

[@diogeneslamp8241]

Do you think JB weld is better than pc 7 ?

[@lukeb3930]

Protip for mixing epoxy that i discovered this week: 1) put it in some clingwrap 2) twist the clingwrap into a bag 3) massage it around to mix 4) cut a hole to squirt out the mixed epoxy Its cheap, disposable, easy cleanup, and its a built in dispenser!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@D33Lux]

Brilliant! I'm going to be doing this from now on. thanks

[@timchapman6702]

That’s pure genius thanks man

[@PrevailingDanger]

could also get some transparent plastic bags for this purpose as well.

[@tobuslieven]

Doing it this way could also prevent mixing any air bubbles into the epoxy, which is important for some applications. Great tip.

[@armandorjusino]

One of the most scientific, honest, down to earth, unbiased product testers on the youtube universe, period. Trust this guy.

[@richardjessop6029]

I totally agree

[@Ex-expat]

One of the best comments describing PF vids!

[@curtissteenbruggen1491]

Did you not see him eyeballing his epoxy mixes. Not exactly scientific lol.

[@frankclarkjr6369]

BINGO!

[@Angelsero1]

He is without a doubt the best and most trusted. He follows the Scientific method better than a lot of scientists this day in age!

[@mikedunham7220]

You legitimately deserve ALL the likes simply for being a genuinely good guy. There are countless people who have such a great appreciation for what your doing and your just doing it just because it's the right thing. Yeah man, I'll like every video and watch every add considering it is the absolute least I could do to show said appreciation. People like you give me hope for the future.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@knocksensor3203]

Takes a lot of work and determination to do this test..

[@jasonclemente4392]

@@knocksensor3203 For all his tests not just this one and he has hundreds if not thousands of tests

[@o0Avalon0o]

This is what I call quality content. I can tell you're one of those guys that holds themselves to a higher standard. Amazing work.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@whatyousaidbud]

I'll second that! It's very impressive to see how thorough he is!

[@smashyrashy]

Its just a glue test vid calm down

[@jz497]

Another guy who holds himself to a higher standard is: obsessed garage. Check that guy out.

[@clemenceronald]

I'll add some more: I was a race bike mechanics and I've built many engines back in the days where 2 stroke reigned the streets and tracks. We could not trust Devcon for internal modifications as it can't withstands heat and fuel/oil mix in two stroke engines. We usually stuffed the crankcase and the crankshaft pocket with JB weld to increase primary compression ratio. Also streamlined the transfer ports, intake, and the carburetor with it too. JB weld will sticks and keep the ported shape for years while Devcon simply "swell" (increase the volume), turned brown, and oftentimes... found in the exhaust pipe's chamber.

[@ProjectFarm]

This is great to know. Thank you!

[@peterjones6945]

That's interesting to know. I had heard JB Weld worked well for porting but Devcon B was better in 4-stoke motors? Intake ports run at around 150~190 (I think deg C?) Two stroke cylinders will probably be running a fair bit warmer? Maybe that's what the JB High Heat was developed for?

[@clemenceronald]

@@peterjones6945 AFAIK, Devcon F rated for up to 122°C max working temperature. JB Weld rated for up to 260°C continuous and 315°C intermittently. In 2 stroke engines, intake temp is much lower than 4 stroke. But the transfer ports in 2 strokes is exposed to combustion heat, although intermittently near the end of the power stroke cycle. Its a harsh place for most epoxies because of the thermal cycling between cold intake stream and hot expanding combustion blow down.

[@fixitrod4969]

This is EXCELLENT info. Thank you for sharing!!!!!

[@donadthegonad]

Would you advise JB weld for gluing friction material to the inside of 2 stroke rotary valve covers?

[@mewintle]

I’m always so impressed at how much time and planning goes into this. You’re so careful and methodical. I really admire that.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you! 😊

[@loversdontH8]

This is exactly what I needed for a project I have in mind! Thank you for putting this together! It's surely saved me hours of time and trouble and who knows how many dollars?! I appreciate your thorough yet no-nonsense approach. Very informative, clear, and well-presented!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome! Glad to hear!

[@wrr2112]

Back in 1992, my ex brother in law bought a 1987 Yamaha YZ-80 for $400. The oil crankcase was busted/cracked. The owner was asking $800, but after not selling it for 4 months, he took my BIL's offer of $400. It had a 3 way "Y" crack with a section broke out in the crack. My BIL cleaned everything with gas first, mineral spirits, then alcohol. After he JBW'ed it, he let it dry for 36 hours (just to make sure). That motorcycle is still running today, with that same JBW crack repair. The engine has been rebuilt twice, but the JBW has not failed......yet!

[@ProjectFarm]

Impressive repair! Awesome!

[@multiblade04]

I have a 1999 r6 with a crack in oil crankcase too I put like 10+ layers on and though it slowed the leak down to where I can ride, it still leaks a fuckton when it sits for a long time :(

[@escargod]

@@ProjectFarm Acetone is the best, "most commonly available" degreaser and prep for bonding adhesives that there is. Lacquer thinner is also good. I learned from a registered, professional engineer and I bonded epoxies (and strain gauges) to sanded and prepped steels. It is important to follow a rigid, disciplined procedure so that you do not contaminate the acetone and that you repeat multiple times, with clean applicators and wipes, so that no oil residue or contaminants are left behind. A freshly ground surface is not clean!

[@Anomaly188]

@@escargod Not to throw shade but how did you expect PF to know to use acetone, and what layman is going to go grab acetone to clean a surface before JB Welding it? That's some 'old master' knowledge that not many are privy to.

[@escargod]

@@Anomaly188 I don't take offense. There are even better chemicals but they are quite expensive, dangerous, restricted, etc. Acetone should only be used in a well ventilated area. Repeated exposure to your fingers will cause skin damage. After 60 years of abuse, my fingers will crack and bleed just looking at solvents. Use swabs, hemostats, etc. and nitrile gloves if you're going to use a clean rag or cotton ball to wipe with. The next time you have a raw surface you have sanded, ground or as it comes from the mill or manufacturer, wipe it with acetone and see what comes off! Very often when you are sanding, grinding, etc. you are smearing surface contaminants around as you work. It's good to do a general degreasing/cleaning before you even work on an area. Most don't prep properly and then bonds fail. None of us know it all, but I'm a pretty good bricoleur.

[@bigpapi3636]

Some comments on epoxy adhesives in general. For consumer use manufacturers are really limited on the type of chemistry they use primarily for liability reasons. Most are based on what they call "Bisphenol" resin and "Polyamide" curing agents. Those are your standard work life products. The fast cure products either use a "mercaptan" curative or an aliphatic amine. The issue with fast cure is just that , no properties except for fast curing. The only other variable is "filler", the mineral powder or metallic powder used as reinforcement or for shrinkage control. There are also couplers such as silane so and/or wetting agents that lower the surface tension of the adhesive and allow it to wet the substrate better. I really like the original JB Weld. I suspect it's a Bis-F resin with a Versamid curing agent and AEP accelerator. Probably has some silane in it and the filler looks like black iron oxide. That filler will reduce shrinkage and can transmit heat pretty quickly giving the adhesive better overall heat resistance. The extreme heat version, as a guess, has a higher % of iron oxide so it doesn't wet as well and hence doesn't bond as well. The cross-linked bisphenol type epoxy heat resistance is about 250F long term and 300F intermittent. Fillers help but I wouldn't count on epoxy above 300F and at 350 the polymer degradation happens pretty quickly. Don't want to appear like Cliff Klaven but I formulated epoxy adhesives for more years than I want to remember!

[@ProjectFarm]

Wow! You have tremendous knowledge on this subject matter! What "professional grade" epoxies do you believe are the strongest? If you could, could you please create a new comment so I can easily find your reply? I'd like to test the more expensive products in the future to see just how much better they are than consumer grade products. Thanks again!

[@bigpapi3636]

Project Farm The professional grade epoxies tend to be formulated for one or two specific properties, high temp resistance or gap-filling for instance. Also, the commercial grades tend to be brittle, something not tolerated in structural or aerospace. If you can get small quantities here are some suggestions: Henkel Loctite EA-9320 EA-9359.3 EA-9309.3 EA-9330 3M 2216 Armstrong A-2 What you should see is higher peel and cleavage strength and less brittleness. Good luck!

[@idontneednostinkingchannel6848]

Wondering which would be best at plugging a rock hole in a 4X4 metal gas tank? Even Bondo, which is basically 3M fiberglass resin will do "for awhile" but eventually succumbs to either the petroleum or the ethanol additives. Is there one that remains impervious? No.. JB says it is - tried that first - but it pulls away after about 6 wks..

[@brettershoalar9001]

I or 'we' are using Loctite, 3M and Huntsman. I am working with carbon and glassfibre composites and aluminium honeycombs. E.g. Loctite gives us a good component to 'break through' the aluminium oxide layer. We are using 2K epoxys and film layers, sometimes with a mesh. Actually some epoxys are 'off limits' for a private home-use, just because they are very unhealthy. Overall, not revealing to much, the 'private things' out of the general store are a good solution to lend a hand in private areas. At work, we need more specific characteristics.

[@brettershoalar9001]

For all those who want the real deal epoxy they shurely bought: If you get yourself a 2-component adhesive that will cure at room temperature (alway take a look at the data sheet), let it cure at room temperature. BUT a lot of em need a final post-curing (see data sheet, maybe for the dedicated shear stregth). Some will go right above the 260°F range. So many of these will show only a 'far piece' of the final strength after a pre-curing (room temp). A post curing will cure it to the final strength. Attention: This does not apply to all bonding agents.

[@texaspecanderosa]

Since finding your channel, I now review your video tests before I buy products for my home use. Your tests are very fair, transparent, and well explained. The videos move along at a quick pace and are entertaining to watch. Keep up the good work - love your channel!

[@brucemorton13]

Well done. I appreciate your adherence to good scientific technique and the excellence of your photography. It is also noteworthy how well spoken you are.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@Dwayne_Bearup]

Proper enunciation is a huge plus, for sure.

[@trollmcclure1884]

the torque test was biased with a downward/upward force though. Not a consistent, scientific test. Also the width of the layer may be diferrent, the roundness of the sanded bolt surface. Good enough anyway. Extreme heat seems to have a diferrent application

[@konnerobe3112]

I love how detailed he is who agrees ? I love all your videos keep it up!

[@guyneault2646]

Good vid...but one aspect he didn't adress, mixture consistency (hardner-epoxy ratio) could make a difference. One more observance, with most chemicals,some, not all,seem to work better when allowed to cure at slower rate.

[@marceldaigle2778]

konner obe absolutely 🤙 And as diligent as we would be 😎 gotta love it !!!

[@joshanderson1019]

i know for once i feel like there is a legitimate video on KZbin

[@Juice556]

Extremely detailed, thorough, and 100% impartial. That, and a very good attitude make him one of the few reasons I even use KZbin anymore.

[@Paulilmys]

I love his videos

[@802Garage]

It's amazing to see how absolutely consistent and informative your channel has remained, but also how much you have improved. Your presentation, recording quality, energy, and more have only gotten better!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you so much!

[@tomcoryell]

Best channel on KZbin! Can you compare epoxy to Titebond III for bonding wood? I know aircraft builders wood appreciate it.

[@garyheaton4791]

I don't buy ANYTHING until I watch your video on it..(if there is one). Be it paint, oil, spray paint, geese, engine additive, tools, power tools, ANYTHING!! I can not thank you enough for all you have done for me over the years!! I am very grateful to you sir! 😀 Best channel on KZbin!!

[@josephgiustiniani2834]

I really like how you labeled everything, mixed everything, and displayed everything. This IMO, is a real world test. Great demonstration.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@Lurkzz]

Thanks for showing metric unit too, imperial units are hard to grasp sometimes!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@unstoppableExodia]

Imperial measurement units are a joke. What is this, the time of Charlemagne?

[@nc3826]

the joke is simpleminded metric NAZIs, who get so easily confused.... and Imperialism is dead....since on on this side of the pond its called SAE units of measurements.....

[@Preinstallable]

unstoppableExodia i, an american agree with that. Less multiplication since everything is by 10s. Got a meter, just make it a kilometer

[@Attachments.]

unstoppableExodia the only things that make sense to use in metric are hand tools and drug weights. Other than that the metric system is dumb.

[@Twig7271990]

I personally have had good luck with Blue Magic QuikSteel epoxy putty. You find it at the auto parts stores. Sets fast, bonds well, is chemical resistant(unlike jbweld), and heat resistant up to 500°F.

[@ProjectFarm]

I haven't tried Blue Magic QuikSteel epoxy putty yet. So, thank you for the recommendation and thanks for commenting!

[@Twig7271990]

Project Farm You are welcome. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

[@n3glv]

Do they still sell PC7? That was the first one I ever saw as a kid and it made a lot of similar claims to JB, engine blocks / heads etc..

[@n3glv]

Following up, PC7 seems to have been around since 1954. How young is JB weld? First time I saw it, I was in my teens (I'm 54 now)

[@n3glv]

JB weld, 1969...

[@josephfedullo7730]

Have you considered a penetrating oil test? I have found two online, but they have limited sample sizes. Why not get 200 uncoated 3/8 nuts and bolts, thread them together, soak them in a bucket of corrosive solution for a month, then measure the torque to loosen with 5 samples for each penetrating oil, and 5 unoiled. Also would be interesting to see if there is a difference between 5min soak time and 24 hour soak time for the oil. Penetrating oils to try PB Blaster, liquid wrench, wd40, 50/50 ATF/acetone, kroil, whatever is on the shelf at the parts store.

[@ProjectFarm]

Joseph, This is a terrific suggestion! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

[@ronalddavis]

I suspect kroil would win

[@madbull9988]

I would love to see this comparison.

[@madbull9988]

I would suggest ( atf/acetome mix, kroil, pb blaster, liquid wrench and mopar penetrating oil)

[@Flickhammer99]

Very interested to see the results from a test of this sort.

[@gentoolive]

I didn't think there was that much difference in Epoxies, appears i was very wrong.. Thx for the education.

[@ProjectFarm]

I didn't realize this either and was quite surprised by the results. Thank you very much for watching the video and commenting.

[@brianborer1941]

Another great video, thanks to you I'll just keep buying J-B Weld original

[@ProjectFarm]

Brian, Thank you very much for the positive feedback!

[@wizardindustriesusa]

I would like to see the same test repeated against concrete.

[@lovejago]

I'm a New Fan! Cool video. hope to see more.

[@ShawnJonesHellion]

I had given up on glues years back. I dislike people lying about how they work as well. Thanks to u tho im using jb weld as we speak

[@SuperDave-vj9en]

I’ve had very good results using Harbor Freight’s epoxy. You are outstanding performing these tests for us. Thanks

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@timhogan6710]

This is my new favorite channel. All of your test seem to be really scientific and consistent. It looks like you put a lot of hard work into it. So it greatly appreciated. I've been telling my friends about it.

[@EbenVisher]

Awesome! Suggestion: In the table at the end, highlight in yellow the winner in each category. You did this for an earlier super glue test and it was *very* helpful. Thanks again, I watch your videos all the time.

[@pernielsen3094]

Thank you for all the tests, you certainly cover all the basics. I used Delco Remy epoxy, and later JB weld to repair broken crankcases on a few motorcycles, back in the 70's, 80's. Also plastic and other repairs. Both having flexibility in varying temperatures, pressures, oil, vibration. I love all your stuff, people can save a lot of time, money, and frustration with the knowledge provided in your great videos.

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.

[@guysupnorth]

WOW! A help me channel that is professionally done. Totally understandable, clearly understood each test and what really counts, "Help me make my decission!" Thank you for your much needed help and advise.

[@jcknives4162]

I am a knife maker so shear strength and adhesion to multiple materials are my main criteria. I should say that many materials shrink or expand with heat and moisture so... again adhesion and shear are my big requirements. I have used many epoxies in my 40 years of making knives and have settled in T-88. I know many makers who use some of the products you have tested here but for me... longevity of my handles is super critical. T-88 has not failed me in over 15 years. Give it a try.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the recommendation!

[@dmill6103]

hows T-88 compare to JB weld? And in your handle construction is the T-88 used on knife handle scales or do you use it in through handle tang construction?

[@jcknives4162]

I use both full tang construction and narrow tang construction@@dmill6103

[@theheretic3764]

@@jcknives4162 West System G/Flex 650...brother...I've glued scales on without pinning it and bounced the knife off trees for hours. Beat to shit...but might as well be welded in place.

[@jcknives4162]

have you compared it to T88?@@theheretic3764

[@richardrhoades8683]

I would like to see a test where you drill a 1/2" hole, completely fill each hole with each type of epoxy then drill and tap a smaller thread (say, 5/16" or 3/8") then test it to see how much torque each epoxy is able to withstand before failing. THAT would be interesting.

[@ProjectFarm]

Great suggestion! Thank you.

[@ColinCearley27]

Good video idea

[@danwilliams4189]

I seldom buy a product that I’m not sure of , without checking your videos First ! 😅

[@jameshaywood878]

Again, as with other test I've seen, are you measuring the amount of epoxy that you use of each product, if not then this test proves nothing, also how long did you let them set for, some do take longer then others.

[@RichardRhoades-tw8tr]

@@jameshaywood878 I believe it's a valid test if you keep all things uniform ie: the hole size drilled (depth x diameter), tap drill bit size and tap size and depth. The uniform size of all of these elements involved should provide an adequate baseline for the comparison.

[@deanrhodenizer938]

Thanks again. I realize that this video was produced almost three years ago but I just came across it now. I have got to give you credit on the innovation you apply in devising tests. Yes, your subscribers may suggest the “what to test” but you put together the “how to test” part. Serious thinking goes into this in my opinion. Then, that must be followed by faithful and consistent execution. And then more serious thinking again about the interpretation of the results and what they mean. I also appreciate your speaking pace and staying on topic. Video editing is superb, I never feel like you are wasting my time; you show everything that is relevant while editing out the content that does not add any value. Great work… Have you ever considered publishing a collection of your findings? This could be a nice add on to the channel. Publish a .pdf document for a nominal fee. I realize this might detract slightly from views but the information you report is perishable to some degree as (better/stronger/faster) are always coming out and things will change. Perhaps you could publish once per year and update with new content annually for the next edition.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the suggestion.

[@tba3900]

I have used Davcon for eons. Range from high pressure , high volume water pumps , to thermostat housings and even block and cylinder head repairs. The parent metal always continues to erode or corroded, but where the davcon is, it’s like the day I mixed it up and spread in on surfaces. We have a high pressure pump housing with a 1 1/2” hole in it. Filled it up with davcon and it withstood 2200 PSI at 205l a minute for another 5 years. It’s simply brilliant.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@buldonzwenkinz7973]

I’ve definitely used 5/6 of these and always wondered about a controlled test like this. Saving a lot of people a lot of time and money. Thanks a lot man

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@howlermonkey7920]

Love this channel . Saves time, 💰 and frustration when he tells you what's a good product. Tests everything better than anyone. Thank you sir.

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@Gitarzan66]

I'm so happy this popped up in my news feed. I've been stuck in "paralysis through analysis" on a snow blower paddle mod forever. I need to attach paddles made of D.O.T. mudflap to the steel auger on my snow blower. I don't have room to use self tapping screws like most people do. I've been befuddled trying to choose an epoxy. We just got a foot of snow in Denver and I still have my machine taken apart. It looks like the J.B. Weld original is the one for the job. I'm new to your channel. thanks for making this video. It just might lift me out of a rut. (literally)

[@MissionaryForMexico]

I have used the JB weld original. Never had any issues with this product! Even used it to plug a leak in a Datsun 240 Z gas tank. Your test are fantastic sir!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks! Thanks for sharing.

[@neilhamill318]

I recon your video's are the most thoughtful out of all the test/comparison videos with the added bonus of being enjoyable to watch and appreciate the time and effort put into making them. Thank you.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@RickCrueger]

Out working in the yard, cut my finger pretty good, mad at the whole world! Put a bandaid on it, so pissed I can’t think strait! Take a break, turn on your show. Suddenly everything is better! I’m calm, happy and focused! Cause I need to know! Which epoxy is the STRONGEST! God I love your channel! Thank you!

[@ProjectFarm]

Sorry to hear of the cut! Glad to hear you love the channel!

[@ryanoconnor7957]

so which epoxy was the best to mend your finger?

[@lesleyghostdragon3149]

Totally worth it! Your viewers are the clear winners. I'm really glad you kept making videos because I just found your channel xo

[@ProjectFarm]

Welcome aboard!

[@paulholmes1303]

Having used epoxies for High Power Rocketry for about 40 plus years we learn early on (the old timers) the length of pot life/cure is a major factor in relative strengths. I also just retired from Aerospace where we use epoxy everyday for manufacture. The three major groups are 1-5 minute, 30 minute and 2 hour pot lifes. A minor factor is temperature and humidity. I use 30 minute exclusively as it has the best setup and wetting time, and again a high end strength. Epoxies cure with an internal crosslinking process which generates heat, and any exterior heat causes that to go faster, BUT the lower the crosslinks speed, the stronger the bond is, i.e. standard day temps are best. Wetting allows better stick, hence why the 5 minute brands failed early. I would suggest two things for a slightly more even testing process. Test 'Apples to Apples' with a group of 5 minute epoxies, a group of 30 minute, etc. I would also like to see each part be measured out to the proper ratio. Most are 1 to 1 mixes, but weight may not be a good factor as the Resin and the Hardener may be of different mass densities. Most go by volume and measuring out volume would insure the ratio is held to the optimum of 1 to 1. As always thank you for what you do!!!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

My experiences with any "epoxy" have been to drill holes in both surfaces to be joined, and push the epoxy into the holes, so it anchors to the part, and itself, really "gripping" the part. JB Weld Original has always been in my tool box. Great video, once again!

[@ProjectFarm]

This is a terrific suggestion and would seem to provide a very strong bond! Thanks again!

[@gmaxsc]

Project Farm also, some of these epoxies work in high temperatures. It would be cool to do the same test after it was in an oven for a bit

[@JF32304]

Yes, by doing this you're increasing surface area and in turn it has more 'meat' material to grab onto.

[@andyrobbins5544]

I loved the video and u just saved me some money keep up the good work and have a great day

[@ProjectFarm]

Andy, Thank you very much for the positive feedback!

[@BernersVlog]

Project Farm I can't really think of any other glues that you could've used, but maybe you could try strengthening JB Weld by adding metal dust or metal shavings and see how it holds up to plain JB Weld. Would be interesting to know if somebody needed a really strong bond, I don't know if it would help the structure or not.

[@johnlincicum6390]

Project Farm What about super glue? Could you compare it to any of these epoxies?

[@ProjectFarm]

Berner's Vlog, Great suggestion. Thanks for watching the video and commenting.

[@ProjectFarm]

John, That'd be an interesting test. Thanks for watching the video and commenting.

[@modi138]

This is probably the first time or at the least one of the first time I have ever commented on a youtube video . I think you do a great job at all your test and do your best not to have or show bias to anything or anyone . Thank you very much for your effort and diligence in all you do.

[@ProjectFarm]

Wow, thank you!

[@ajg123456789]

OUTSTANDING video!!! 1. Quick description of test. 2. Conduct the test. 3. Explain the results. That is the recipe for a great video! I can't stand other reviewers who waste time explaining things that have nothing to do with the test. For example, there are others who would have spent a half hour explaining the history of the torque wrench. That story is interesting, but it has nothing to do with the test. Keep up the good work!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks, will do!

[@mickeyspillane9325]

Thanks for all the hard work you put forth to keep the masses informed. I really enjoy watching your videos. They are precise, to the point and never boring.

[@1911acolt1]

I appreciate the time and effort.This shows what I have found in my attempts with epoxy…JB weld the original has always (given I prepped the material)proven to be the best for me.

[@VamsiMohanKrishnaVadrevu]

Excellent testing... Load bearing test, torque test and impact test... this should cover almost all scenarios of usage and give a good idea of what compound to use.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@MackSmooth]

Missing heat tolerance. That's what I need to know.... really good video tho i agree.

[@furyofbongos]

Been using JB Weld orig for forever. Duct tape, velcro and JB Weld, 3 of the most useful things I've ever owned.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@martysk8r]

JB Weld original is bad to the bone - my favorite epoxy.

[@MrCougar214]

Actually, I consider this a huge win for JB Weld Original.

[@TarmanTheChampion]

Yupp, Devcon wasn't half bad either

[@danlorett2184]

Tensile strength of original JB Weld is almost 4000lbs - Devcon is 2500 and the rest are around ~1500. There are commercial/industrial epoxies that are FAR stronger but a lot of them can't be used privately because they are dangerous/toxic chemicals.

[@loveydovey4u]

​@@danlorett2184like what??

[@sonnyrgarcia]

When in doubt JB weld it out

[@ProjectFarm]

LOL! I like it!

[@silvestree1]

dude THIS is educational awesome video!!!

[@ProjectFarm]

silvestree1, Thank you very much for the positive feedback! Keeps me motivated to make more videos. Thanks again!

[@silvestree1]

Project Farm seriously keep it up wish I c would give more thumbs

[@johnherrmann7464]

I've had VERY GOOD results preparing surfaces with my small sandblaster. Sand blasted surfaces plus JB Weld original has always proved to be an EXCELLENT joining method for various metals

[@willierants5880]

Watching some PF classics, the channel sure has come a long way. If this video was done today I see the process being much different. Still a good and entertaining video.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@WillEDC]

He smiles more in the newer vids 😅

[@upsidedowndog1256]

Try Metal Set. Available from industrial supplies. Great tests, great editing, great information. I like JB original.

[@ProjectFarm]

Anthony, Great suggestion! I'll try it. Also, thank you very much for the positive feedback.

[@bryannicholson843]

Thank you for all your hard work my friend. I’ve watched most if not all your videos and not one time have I thought “I wish he would’ve done that different”. You approach your task from every angle. Great work!

[@ProjectFarm]

Wow, thank you

[@stevementzer4149]

I've only just started watching your channel. About 4 months. I have to say, I will not buy anything without first seeing if you have tested it. I've recommended your channel to about a dozen people so far.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@wlrottge]

You should look into some of the West Systems epoxies; their products are used in both professional manufacturing and hobbiests. Would be interesting to see how their 105 series (straight and with adhesive fillers) varies with the type of hardener as well as their G-flex and Six10 products. I use West Systems for the carbon parts that I build and think it would beat all of these hands down!

[@robertpolicastro9403]

3m makes some incredible adhesives also.

[@robertpolicastro9403]

3m makes structural steel adhesives. They are stronger then the parent metal.

[@DwayneAEdwards]

Do you have a link for this stuff?

[@peteranoia4570]

Just going by the numbers according to their manufacturers, West System (roughly 7500-8000psi depending on which hardener is used) is about twice as strong as JB Weld (original is 3960psi). Other hard data I could not find for comparison. My experience is that West is significantly more structurally sound than JB Weld.

[@1968davis]

You put in a lot of hard work and you're very meticulous in what you do, GREAT JOB, thanks for these videos. You need your own TV show!

[@jeffrochowiak1839]

Project Farm: One of the most trusted , respected and informative channels on KZbin. Period.

[@connor714]

Five years since you've posted this video, and I'm suddenly grateful for it. I need a strong epoxy to bond metal together. Keep up the great work! Your experiments are unmatched.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@phantom3455]

You do an awesome job with your reviews. When I'm looking for the best of a product to purchase I check out your channel to see if you've reviewed it. No one else comes close to the in depth product tests that you do. Please keep up the great work!! Thank you!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks, will do!

[@USMC-Sniper-0137]

I've used JB WELD ORIGINAL for a many years and luckily I have a habit of buying it when I need strong support!. JB WELD, GOOP, And E6000 are my go-to glues for select jobs I need done.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@pauljs75]

Need a press to see how they do under compression, and perhaps a straight pulling out test. Qualities of each may still fit different applications.

[@ProjectFarm]

This is a great suggestion. Thanks for watching the video and commenting.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

You have a point, this was more of a twisting force and you can't direclty apply the weight to the strength without considering the 3.5" from the glue.

[@n3glv]

I thought I saw in the torque wrench part on the locktite brand there was a slight lifting and naturally both popped. Maybe a redo with some kind of jig to prevent this? (steel plate or frame with a hole or something?)

[@halifaxmax5039]

A jig to lessen the slight differences in technique would help, but it sure seems that there are some clear losers in this race, and some close competitors. Also, if we dug a bit or asked someone smarter, they could do the math to determine the force applied due to the distance from the point of the epoxy bond. Although he didn't have the math on hand, it would be a multiplication of the weight, Project Farm did his best to keep the force as consistent as possible but using the fix nut position. Great attempt at scientific testing by a regular guy just trying to help us out.

[@TheRealStevenGlen]

I yeah I would have done tensile test first instead of sheer

[@hassansmw5634]

This is by far the most interesting and useful content on the net. Keep up the hard and honest work!!

[@williamjones3639]

You are the most non-bias tester on KZbin. You always provide even-ground product testing and provide useful knowledge so a consumer can make an informed decision. I value your testing knowledge. Keep up the work.

[@maxigabime5308]

Watching even older content and still great! the effort its worth to mention and a really god job! You really help us all! Have a good day! Thanks for the vids!

[@ProjectFarm]

I appreciate that!

[@gambini_modding]

I for one, love what you do and as a workshop/mechanics/science enthusiast I do appreciate the quality of your production. I even began to perform tests like this myself for the stuff i build/use. So yeah! keep it coming man! It´s just sad that some of the products you test, are not available here, like these epoxies. Yet, from now on i will buy 24hours epoxi since there´s a hell of a difference!

[@ProjectFarm]

Wow, thank you!

[@charleserps848]

As a gunsmith I use several different epoxies in my craft. One that I use the most is a gunsmithing specific called AccraGlas which is sold with a black powder used to thicken it to the desired consistency. When using it to bed a barrel and action to the stock it must be used with a release agent. If not, the only way to remove the barreled action is with a hatchet. When properly used it contributes significantly to the accuracy of the rifle. Acraglas is also excellent when used a a grain filler when finishing the stock. Your video was excellent and quite an eye opener. Please keep up the good work and I will look forward to more of your videos.

[@ProjectFarm]

Charles, This is very interesting and I enjoyed reading your comments! I'll check out AccraGlas. Thanks again!

[@charleserps848]

I should have mentioned that AccraGlas is only available from Brownells Shooters Supply. While not inexpensive it is well worth the price if you are looking for an extremely strong epoxy. It is available in two forms, one a liquid, the other a gel. I use the gel because of the viscosity, it is furnished with a jar of flour fine black powder to mix with it to achieve the consistency you desire. It can also be mixed with almost any other filler you might desire. It can also be tinted to the color you desire. If you have the opportunity check it out. Again, I really enjoyed your video. Keep up the excellent work.

[@GettinEdgy]

Charles Erps I use acraglass to attach my knife handles, as well as jb weld. When I have to redo things that I've glued with acraglass, nothing I've glued with it ever comes back apart in one piece. stuff is crazy strong!

[@sunkissedroyalty2756]

Which clear epoxy glue would you recommend for sticking metal pieces onto sunglasses

[@stoneblue1795]

Acraglas is good stuff.

[@daleleffers7723]

Excellent video, JB Original is my obvious choice. the 24 hr cure is worth it too No sales pitch, the clear direct unbiased info I was searching for. Thank You!!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@PatJones82]

My gosh, you've got some great content. There goes my whole darn day! I can't stop watching your vids? Why? Because they are so well done and so useful and answer so many questions I've had for so many years! A huge thanks!

[@ProjectFarm]

Wow, thank you!

[@joshuashea7613]

Good job. As consumers we have an honest look at these products that we otherwise wouldnt have had.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@nikitanadein]

Now i`m really curious to replicate your test with some epoxies that are available here in Russia and compare results. Can you specify head size of those bolts and distance from steel surface to chain?

[@ProjectFarm]

I'm guessing that you use the metric system in Russia. The head size of the bolt I used was 7/16 of 1 inch. The length of the bolt was 4 inches. The distance from the base to where the weight was applied is 3.5 inches. Thanks for watching the video and commenting.

[@nikitanadein]

Thanks! Common metric bolt heads sizes are not close enough to 7/16", but i`m working with american paint sprayers, so i guess i`ll find that imperial one in the workshop :)

[@ProjectFarm]

If you test epoxies, it'd be great to hear about the results. Thanks again.

[@nikitanadein]

I`ll surely share the results.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

When I saw how you were going to do the down force, I immediately started searching the comments for how long this bolt is. For those of us who can apply physics equations, the helps us know how much leverage is on the force. I could even calculate for you the lb feet of torque the twisting force is of those weights on those bolts.

[@vstolpner]

Even 5 years after posting, still a very useful video. I love watching your videos and always reference them when making decisions. Fantastic work, thank you for doing it.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@SP-wk1en]

Harbor Freight would have been an interesting one to test. Currently $1.79 for the quick setting version. (Edit: meaning compare with price as a parameter)

[@skuula]

Not to mention all the Chinese ones on aliexpress. Some of them, I had very good results with. Not for really demanding applications, but still.

[@jagardina]

Ahh I was looking for this, good information. I'll steer away from the quick epoxies unless I absolutely need the speed over adhesion.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you

[@firebirdude2]

Great video. I'd like to see it done a 2nd time on a new piece of metal and in a different order to see if you get the same results. Valid results are repeatable!

[@littlejimmy7402]

I have to say, I watch a lot of your videos (old and new) on my way to the hardware store. I appreciate the pain you go through so I can score easier wins. I started futsing around in the shop this morning, all the sudden all the parts to assemble my perfect shop dust broom appeared. But, I've only used sanded masonry epoxies so I needed to go to school. Thanks for the lesson.

[@tomassilvas9791]

Hey man. I really appreciate the time you take out of your day to display real testing on these things. Save me ALOT of time, money, headaches, wondering/worrying if this time will it work, and repetitive work. Thank you SO much. I'm a subscriber for life. GREAT JOB!!!!👍👍👍👍👍

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks so much!

[@JomasterTheSecond]

"None of these should fail at 5 inch pounds." [JB Weld Extreme Heat then fails at 5 inch pounds]

[@ProjectFarm]

Great point.

[@regwatson2017]

The point is that JB Extreme Heat is not designed to perform in a test like this. The name should give you a clue as to what the application is. It is to seal under extreme heat conditions (muffler leaks, boiler joints etc) and needs to be completely dry before use (at least 24 hours or longer). Hardly fair to test it under these conditions but interesting results anyway.

[@BamaShinesDistillery]

@@regwatson2017 JB also says if its soft to hit it with heat to make it cure.....I dont think it cures at low temps......

[@chris35823]

The logical understanding is that it adheres up to a higher melting point... "Sticks less than mediocre but does so at a higher temperature" isn't a very solid sales pitch. J-B failed at this product, plain and simple.

[@chris35823]

And if you're using JB weld on a boiler, you've met the minimum threshold of clinical insanity.

[@Jasbo001]

Great video! Really interesting to see how they actually perform in the field. Always very difficult to know what to choose at the counter for a particular application. Thanks for all your efforts!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@chelseahanlin9278]

Why am I just now finding your channel? Finally a no bullshit, real life FAIR and USABLE test of all the top products. You set the bar!! Thank you and hope you still at it. Thanks again

[@H2Toxic562]

7 years later, and I know I can still trust you to help me make a decision once again. Thank you for all these videos you make.

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@rickolson9011]

Great video! My experience has been that the mixing ratio of Part A and Part B is pretty sensitive. The other factor is mixing time. I think it would be interesting to see if you chose a few epoxies and tried seeing how crucial the 50/50 ratio (or whatever the direction call for) is to getting strength. Again, love your well thought out experiments!

[@krazykarl0]

Rick Olson I would like to see that also

[@jpian0923]

If you were to error, would you go more Hardner, or the other way? IF you were in a pinch and it was a critical application, would you intentionally go with more hardner?

[@n3glv]

Good point / idea for another test, maybe use a gram scale to do it by weight? Or plastic soda bottle caps or _something_ for volumetric?

[@9neil]

Rick Olson the mix ratio is VERY important. I built an aeroplane some yrs ago, and the mfrs went to extreme ends to ensure that the part A and part B were weighed, and then mixed for several minutes. i noticed that you did not appear to to spend a lot of time mixing. Someone has mentioned the West system, and they supply their product with syringes fitted to the containers so that the ratio is tightly controlled. Great series. look forward to the next video. neil

[@richardbensemann5455]

Thanks for taking the time and resources to do this. Helped me in making my choice of epoxy selection.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@richardkrautheim8101]

I'm a huge fan of your videos, and rigorous testing methodology; I know this is an older video, but I would very much like to see a test of high temperature epoxies. I've seen epoxies that claim they can withstand up to like 1000 degrees; but I really wonder how valid those claims are. either way, thanks again for all your diligent work, and keep turning out great content.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.

[@arthurd.robinsoniii5404]

I really liked this comparison test. My Dad was always a big fan of JB weld. That's the only epoxy I ever saw him buy. I remember he told me about using it to fix a minor crack in the block of the flat head V-8 in his 49 F-5 Ford grain truck and it never failed. I'm not sure where it was at, but I think he told me it was a crack on the side, running up from the oil pan. Keep up the good work!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks, will do! Thanks for sharing.

[@pierreretief]

I would be very interested to see how important the correct ratio is. Say 50/50 mix of the epoxy vs 40/60 etc

[@ProjectFarm]

Great video idea!

[@Panzer1981vtr1000sp1]

Very nice test! Learned a lot! JB Weld Original seems to be a very good all around product to use on steel stuff. Thx for the vid, very good! Double thumbs up.

[@ProjectFarm]

Mondor An, Thank you for the thumbs up and thank you for taking the tim e to comment!

[@aaamflikah]

Fantastic video as always! Your tests are so thorough I feel really informed as to which products to use in the future. Thanks again!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@jchase1702]

We really appreciate the time it took you to provide so much detail. I love that these tests provided unbiased "real world" results. Thank you so much!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@Reece634]

jb weld makes a putty that you mix to activate called steel stick try that one

[@ProjectFarm]

Reece634, Thank you very much for the product recommendation!

[@markoaks4821]

Project Farm came here to recommend the same thing. there are a number of the clay consistency 2 part epoxies that I've used in the past with varied results depending on application. my motorcycle's stator cover was ground through from a slide down the road. I repaired it with the "quicksteel" epoxy about 23,000 miles ago and it's still strong and like new. no torsion forces, but it has to take temperature swings and the occasional boot impact.

[@ProjectFarm]

Mark, this is great information and this sort of product definitely seems like one I need to keep on hand in the shop! Thank again!

[@wobblysauce]

+

[@Shane-Singleton]

I'm going to have to pick up some of that Devcon stuff. I use Loctite plastic epoxy for a lot of small tasks and it performs REALLY well but it looks like if I need something for a heavy duty fix that Devcon is a great option.

[@ProjectFarm]

Devcon is a great epoxy!

[@Shane-Singleton]

have you considered doing some kind of direct pull test? rather than a torsion or a leverage break. where you're trying to pull the bolt straight out perpendicular to the attachment point? say by hanging the weight from the screws while they're pointed down.

[@randyhenke]

Devcon is what most guys use when filling the spaces between the barreled action and stock in rifles when trying to squeeze out the most accuracy. I have used devcon and jb weld original and generally go with whatever is closer which one will color match closer.

[@oblizkin1481]

Shane Singleton but the devcon sucked. JB weld original was better

[@Koshmar-13]

because one product beat another, that makes the other product suck? Bit of an odd outlook on things.

[@markmcconnell8705]

Keep up the good work. Your product testing helps me know what to stay away from. Which product I should choose is still a $ factor. On the epoxy thing, I have wondered about what the results would be if I played with the mixture ratio. Or choose items I would never want to glue to each other. Maybe I would have more time for such experiments if I just stopped watching KZbin videos.

[@rdmercer2451]

Very expertly done... if I had one bone to pick, it would be in the way you compared the high temp product to the others. It’s a niche application that is only meant to be used on exhaust pipes, mufflers, near hot engines, etc, I don’t think the comparison was fair to JB.

[@PureBlood42]

In summary, these companies are selling products with ludicrous strength ratings of 2,000+ lbs, and they can't withstand the load of a 25 lb weight. Lol.

[@thePavuk]

2000+ lb per square meter

[@Deezmok]

You guys are both retarded because with leverage you can move a mountain.

[@firstielasty1162]

Not the same thing at all, psi-vs-lbs. ..that's like concluding my truck doesn't really weigh 5000 lbs because it sits there all day with 35 psi in the tires that hold it up. The length of the bolt matters as well, it is an arm...a moment. That arm relative to the bolt head width (another arm) determines the tension in the glue at the top edge relative to the weight applied out at the end..a ratio. I'd guess it is 10 or 15 to one. The compression at the bottom edge doesn't matter, because it failed in tension, as we saw.

[@jordanstephenson6953]

Have you done similar testing with “metal weld” epoxies where the cured material is drilled and tapped for a bolt? One of jb welds claims to fame is being tappable after curing which i have taken advantage of before but the way the jb weld failed in the torque test here vs the devcon makes me think the devcon might be better suited to this type of use, the jb weld seamed too malleable where it would tear out the threads sooner than devcon. It could be a matter of exact ratios of hardener vs filler though too, you should try testing where exact amounts of hardener and filler are weighed out on a scale instead of eyeballing it and also try jb weld vs jb weld vs jb weld where one mix is a little lighter on the hardener, one is exactly equal parts hardener and filler and the last is a little lighter on the filler and see how they fare against eachother and if any are “harder” than the others. Ive been told by colleagues years ago regarding original jb weld that if you want it to set up faster use a little more hardener but if you want it to be harder but take longer to set up and cure fully to use more filler, im curious if that is true or if even the opposite is true.

[@railgap]

too much hardener = brittle, too little hardener = incomplete cure and lower tensile strength. JB Weld is fairly sensitive to mix ratio. Use exactly 1:1 to avoid tears / surprises. That said, it's my go-to epoxy for anything smaller than about 1 cu. in. Above that and it's time for body filler (epoxy + chopped fiberglass)

[@onetwothree4148]

Don't take this video as scientific evidence. All epoxies are sensitive to mix ratios, and the quantities used in this video are too small to accurately measure. Also they have different viscosities, so they don't all puddle to the same height, and these experiments should have been done with more weight and less leverage for exactly the reason of avoiding unnecessary imprecision. Any sample could have had 5% more or less hardener, 5% thicker or thinner, or 5% more or less leverage (because of the imprecise position or variable moments of inertia due to hand releasing weights)- and the human eye wouldn't have caught a single one of these compounding errors.

[@-Nick-T]

@@onetwothree4148 using this mans approach is scientific. its just to what degree of precision. he is within real world tolerances of testing precision for most humans.

[@onetwothree4148]

@@-Nick-T none of his conclusions are beyond the margin of error of his experiment, and they could be completely wrong. Each of these criteria will have non-linear effects on performance; that's why precision is critical.

[@anumrabadam9678]

I just start the video, and I am surprise of how professional you are!!! I am a DIY with 50 years of experience!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@hflores7621]

You and your processes are wonderful! Can't thank you enough for your testing. I"m subscribed and really look forward to your videos!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for watching and subscribing!