The Ultimate Guide to Polaroid i-Type Adapters for SX-70 and SLR680 Cameras (as of 2024!)

[@theinstantcameraguy]

Chapters below - addendum in comments: 00:15 - Introduction - let's talk about i-Type adapters. 02:12 - Why use i-Type? 06:50 - The benefit of lithium ion batteries over alkaline 09:53 - The benefits of 600 speed film 11:41 - Removing the metal film stopper 12:18 - GET YOUR CAMERA SERVICED! 13:45 - Stop wasting time with ND filters! 16:48 - Pros and cons of different adapters 18:03 - "Hack" i-Type techniques 27:12 - "Hack" i-Type techniques Summary Slide 27:20 - Retrospekt "Power Pack" 38:18 - Retrospekt "Power Pack" Summary Slide 38:26 - Rezivot "Power Ranger" 46:53 - Rezivot "Power Ranger" Summary Slide 47:04 - PolaStudio "Power Kit S" 54:21 - PolaStudio "Power Kit S" Summary Slide 54:30 - Chromatic Parts "Powerbar" 01:13:36 - Chromatic Parts "Powerbar" Summary Slide 01:13:46 - SX-70R "Evo" 01:18:50 - SX-70R "Evo" Summary Slide 01:18:59 - TICG "PolaVolt" 01:32:30 - TICG "PolaVolt" Summary Slide 01:32:40 - AAA battery mods for box cameras 01:35:33 - Outro

[@theinstantcameraguy]

ADDENDUM: 1) I did make a mistake about the built in "Polapulse" battery inside a pack of 600 film where I labelled it as 'alkaline'. When the original SX-70 was released, the PolaPulse consisted of 4x 1.5V batteries, which I incorrectly assumed used alkaline formula. The original PolaPulse was in fact a zinc chloride battery. However, Polaroid later updated this design to use "Lithium ion manganese oxide" batteries instead - two of them at 3V each. It just goes to show that even if you dedicate 13 years to repair you can still learn something new. This certainly makes sense in hindsight, since modern Polaroid 600 film batteries always seem so strong. When I had voiced my concerns to other technicians about the Retrospekt solution seemingly being so lousy when using alkaline batteries (and not being as strong as the original packs) - at not a single stage did anyone go "yes Jake, that's because the pack batteries are lithium chemistry". Fortunately, in the grand scheme of the video it doesn't change anything, and effectively all major points still stand. The lithium ion battery solutions on display here all "FEEL" more powerful than the stock pack battery. I guess the answer as to why that is likely lies in some kind of chemistry and physics that I don't adequately understand yet. 2) Please note that I did not include much in-depth information on the MiNT i-Type adapter because: A) there may be a separate video on it coming in the future... B) it's not something available for purchase on its own - you can only get one pre-installed to a MiNT 'SLR670'

[@alyro-ls1dv]

Thank you for the video, for all owners who have like me shifted their polaroid between their shelfs for decades and wondering where the journey is going to take us interested following several ontakes of camera changes this really is a 2024 comprehensive overview of solutions making again use of our cherrished cameras. thanks for all the effort such a long video takes and you commitment to the community. all the best for 2025, albrecht

[@timekillerone]

Thanks for this video! Your channel is a treasure trove of knowledge. My favorite is SX-70R "Evo". Looks actually good in my opinion, doesn't add thickness(compatible with cases), easy install. The price is a cherry on top. Can't wait for it to become available for purchase.

[@andrewharrington795]

I wonder if it's possible to install underneath the leather?

[@tonygraham6140]

Another great video Jake. I'm only regretting that it didn't come in time for me to not have tried most of the external power options already (sas well as four other non-overhaulers). Thanks for the empirical knowledge I've gained.

[@chadhauze1683]

Really great and thorough video! I’ve been using a polastudio for several months and it works well. Also of note, if you put in a 600 film pack the camera will use that battery.

[@MuffSquad]

In my opinion the Polastudio s version is the best looking option. I don’t like the look of oddly shape add ons of the other versions but I do agree, I wish there was a battery door. I do surprisingly like the sx-70r evo because it’s easily removable . 10/10 video. I appreciate you being so informative on the sx-70s. I want these cameras to live forever and I believe you are the biggest contributor of keeping these beautiful cameras alive. Peace and love 🙏

[@GonzoTheRosarian]

For a strap solution with your Pola Volt you can use Peak design lugs with a Peak design narrow strap. This works well for my SX 70. The Peak design lugs adapt to tight places well.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

yes this is a solution for sure! Since this video came out, I've made placement of the older 1mm lower, which interfered with strap placement even less I forgot to factor in thickness of the leather when I originally mounted the battery holder, so its even less of an issue than I thought!

[@seanconnors9912]

I just shot Instax Wide film in my Polaroid 95 at EV 8, at 4ft of a yellow bush on a bright sunny day and it turned out great!

[@Ni5ei]

Jake, there's a video on KZbin from a guy that's made a film cassette for Spectra cameras that holds iType film plus 2 batteries in the space that was otherwise occupied by the wider Spectra film. I think it's quite a good idea and about the only option to keep using Spectra cameras.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

Yeah I'm familiar with it. The issue is the rollers though They don't result in even spread of developing chemicals But there may be ways to mod it It's definitely a project on my backburner

[@monochromebluess]

Superb video Jake. Very well explained with all the Pro’s and Con’s readily understandable. Interesting to at last get an exact comparison. The Polavolt is the champion solution for sure. Whilst you can’t give yourself a “winner’s certificate” I will give you a virtual one. Hopefully you will soon have two of my cameras with you as they seem to have arrived in Australia with a Polavolt on the list of work to do.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

I think for what it is - the PolaVolt is an excellent solution Its pretty much the distillation of all that I stand for in terms of repair. Modular, repairable, simple and effective

[@JawhnL5]

Excellent video Jake - I happen to own a MiNT SLR670-S Type i and can confirm that my camera also has a bit of resistance when opening/closing due to the new bottom panel. It’s not too bad, but it was a little concerning at first and is something that folks should be aware of. MiNT themselves seems to acknowledge this as a characteristic of their Type i cameras and suggests that it should loosen up over time, though for me that remains to be seen.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

I was having a chat to Jeremy about this and it appears that the issue is that the plastic side panel where the erection arm goes is too thick A few seconds with a dremel on the inside to remove the excess plastic solves the problem very quickly though The only way it'll "loosen up over time" is if the arm literally carves a channel into the plastic through repeated use lol

[@aarongomez4305]

I’ve had decent luck with the Retrospekt power pack. It’s kinda clunky and it’s spazzed out on me a few times and stopped ejecting mid way through a shot. Then it would continue jamming halfway through every shot after. The only solution is to take out the pack of film and re-insert a dark slide to make the camera think it’s a new pack. Kind of a pain in the ass. It’s only happened a few times thankfully. I was excited to try the Chromatic Parts power bar for my sonar, but had no luck. After spending a boat load to ship Dennis my camera from the states, I got back a camera I was expecting to make a trade in on. That’s a whole other frustration but whatever. The power bar never worked unfortunately hence the reason I got the one from Retrospekt. I was excited about it cause it didn’t change the look of the camera like the power pack does. I didn’t want to pay shipping again for him to fix it so I just called it a loss. I did enjoy your video and seeing all the other options for shooting Itype.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

@@aarongomez4305 sorry to hear about the issues you had I'm very curious to hear the full story If you ever want me to upgrade your camera, the PolaVolt may be the best compromise for you. It's very small and far more powerful than the AAA Power pack from Retrospekt. Additionally it doesn't alter the cosmetics as much. From the front view, you can't tell it's been modified

[@Ni5ei]

1:02:22 I would've liked to see the powerbar + flashbar on the Sonar. That'd be quite a contraption 😂

[@shawnlennon1947]

im gonna find one of these in decent condition one day and hopefully have you work on it if you can. I love your work. ive manage to convert 600 to I type by myself And im sure I can figure it out with vids like yours but im a rookie from the circuit bending community and wouldn't trust myself opening a piece of history. id want the works, the refurbish, the tune up, the convert to I type .

[@BigJ1033]

In Canadian Best Buy (tech store) locations, the 5 pack of 600 film is $130 CAD and a 5 pack of I-type film is $100 CAD.

[@monochromebluess]

Just rewatched the video as I wanted to more understand the SX-70R EVO. Still an excellent recap of the options out there. Well done. In the PolaVolt option for the folding SX-70 type cameras - it’s just two x AAA lithium batteries so why are four x AAA batteries needed in the box type camera ? Why the need for extra power ?

[@theinstantcameraguy]

I think you are getting confused. I will take some time, and multiple comments explaining a bit about batteries in more detail The PolaVolt does NOT take a traditional AAA battery. The batteries it takes LOOK like a regular AAA, and are the same physical size, but they are not the same. They are rechargeable lithium ion, and are a totally different voltage to a standard AAA. I do make this very clear at multiple points in the videos I've done on the PolaVolt. Regular AAA are 1.5V each, where as the batteries I use are 3.7V each. Effectively they are more than twice as powerful as a standard AAA, and thus you only need half the number of batteries to get the same, if not MORE power. The reason I chose this form factor is because AAA size battery holders are very cheap to purchase, since they are a common commodity part. This makes the PolaVolt cheap to produce, easy to source parts and easy to build. They are also very compact, which means my adapter is the smallest of its kind in the market. Unfortunately, such a clever power solution comes at the detriment of confusing every client of mine who doesn't pay attention to the battery type difference, and ends up getting confused. (Continued in second comment)

[@theinstantcameraguy]

Please read this multiple times: In regards to powering a classic Polaroid external batteries, there are multiple ways of doing it. Classic Polaroid cameras require 6V, and a decent supply of milliamps to operate. Ultimately, whatever battery solution we use must be able to supply a steady 6V. Zinc carbon batteries output 1.5V. So we could use four of them. However Zinc carbon has a lousy capacity and current output, and so is a poor choice. Not rechargeable. Alkaline batteries output 1.5V each and have better current output. So again, we could use 4x AAA alkaline batteries. Better choice, but alkaline batteries drop voltage as they get used, and have a power response curve that drops power delivery over time. They are fine to use in simple box type cameras, which require very little power, but used in an SLR Polaroid will struggle. Not rechargeable. NiMh batteries are 1.2V each. These ARE rechargeable. Current supply is ok, however the voltage is too low. Four cells would only be 4.8V. Poor choice. Disposable lithium batteries are 3V. The original Polaroid film pack uses two thin 3V lithium cells inside the pack of film. So we could use two 3V CR2 cells for example and it would work flawlessly since they are VERY powerful for the size. But these batteries are expensive to purchase, and not rechargeable. Rechargeable lithium batteries are GENERALLY 3.7V each (although less common 3.2V versions do exist). 3.7V does not easily divide into 6 though... Using two cells would give 7.4V, which is way too high! So we need extra circuitry to modify the voltage. We can either use a single large cell and 'step up' the voltage. Or - my preferred method - use two smaller cells and 'step down' the voltage. This is why the PolaVolt uses a buck converter. This little chip (that is turned on in the PolaVolt when the camera is erect) converts the 7.4V to a steady 6V to run the camera. I COULD use the PolaVolt to power a box camera. However, a manual on/off switch would be required to cut power, or the voltage conversion circuit would run 24/7, which isnt good for it. In the PolaVolt, I wire the buck converter into the cameras built in hinge switch. So collapsed = power off, erect = power on. This basically eliminates human error, since you realistically can't "forget" to turn the battery system off unless you leave the camera erect - which you should never do anyway! Which is why I think it's so genius. ***The last thing I want to mention... is in a 4xAAA solution, you COULD use "1.5V" AAA lithium battery. 1.5V is not technically possible in lithium chemistry alone, so the way that these batteries work is that they are effectively lithium batteries that have tiny built in circuitry IN THE BATTERY ITSELF that reduces 3-3.7V down to 1.5V so they behave like a sort of more powerful standard alkaline battery. Energizer make disposable versions. And Kratax make rechargeable versions. Four of THESE would give us the 6V we need. And they are a good option for box cameras too. However physically, 4xAAA is too big to nicely fit on an SX-70 SLR, which is why I use 2x AAA 3.7V and a buck converter. It's purely for the smaller size. 4x AAA fits PERFECTLY onto a box camera though on the rear sloped surface, which is why I use it on those models.

[@feuerstern3001]

Could make a video about how to remove the tounge without disabling the whole camera? If possible of course. I had my SX-70 converted because I'm honestly too scared to take it apart (also because I don't want to buy new leather for it) and while you can get around the tounge with it in place it's just a bit annoying.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

It's technically possible... But much harder Best to do it properly

[@seanconnors9912]

One year ago today, I bought my first SX-70 OneStep. Now, I have 41 Polaroid cameras, of which 12 are folding cameras, ALL of which need servicing lol. Three seem problem-free, including my 680. Three won't even power on. I have a black Sonar unit with a jammed manual focus button that's perfect for your i-Type mod. The manual focus seems 'jammed' in the auto position. You can press it to manual to freely move the focus wheel, but if you lift your thumb from the button, it'll just go right back to auto, as if there is a spring in the wrong position forcing the button on auto mode or something. Also, it froze with the shutter open after about 12 photos... had to manually spin the gears to reset the mirror so I could close the darn thing.

[@cwchen2u6]

Thank you so much for your amazing sharing!! Still curious if there is any modification that is needed to insert an I-type film for a SX-70? I saw the notice from PolaStudio saying there is a tenon at the bottom of I-tpye film container which the SX-70/ 600 film doesn't have. Wondering if it will make it hard to insert or even damage the camera.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

Its not really a problem. And with a set of nail clippers you can easily remove the plastic lug if you are concerned The main issue that happens is with Alpha and Sonar spec cameras with built in tripod sockets inside There is a metal tongue that needs to be removed first of all (I always do this on cameras I refurbish) but sometimes, if the i-type pack has a large lug, it gets caught on the tripod socket on the internals of the camera. This makes the pack of film hard to insert. It wont damage the camera though This only affects SOME packs of film with certain mouldings of the plastic. If you have a Model 1, or Model 2 with no internal socket, it is super easy to slide in the packs of film, and it'll never get caught

[@cwchen2u6]

@@theinstantcameraguy Thanks for the reply. As an Alpha user, guess I better take a care of the metal tongue first before applying any kind of i-type solution.

[@jmccutube]

I would love to see an adapter to use batteries from 600 packs. Perhaps a design similar to the SX-70R Evo (pins, attach using tripod mount). Slide the 600 battery in, slide it out when depleted. I know there are Thingiverse designs, mostly not very workable. If the SX-70R Evo is to sell at $50 then I hope someone will produce a solid version of what I’m suggesting-I’d pay $50 for that and it presumably would cost much less to produce. I have dozens of battery packs just waiting for this! Thanks for the video.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

As you said, it already exists as a 3D printed option on Thingiverse The issue with such an adapter in my eyes... is that it assumes you have a bunch of 600 film batteries lying around Which means every dozen or so packs you have to go out and buy 600 film to replenish the supply It kinda makes sense I guess, but its an odd solution in my mind Such an adapter is likely too niche to ever go into mass production

[@beerock1000]

Really informative video, the best I’ve seen on this topic. The capacitor you talk about for the Retrospekt mod, it’s 3300uf but guessing 6.3v?

[@theinstantcameraguy]

You don't need to go that high. I just had those lying around as spares. 6.3v isn't ideal since it's very close to 6v. 10v would be better Anything over 1500uf seems to help

[@coolduder1001]

I'm curious what you think of using a 9v battery over two 10440 cells. The 10440s are nice because of their size, but if you forgot the charger then it's a lot harder to get an alternative while out and about. I feel like a 9v would be a little better since you can get rechargeable, and because you can buy them at most stores. I'm using a 9v on mine atm (with a buck converter) and it's ok, a little bulky but not much more than two AA batteries. It also wouldn't be a bad idea to add a PC socket to the "power bar", I mean if already passing the connection and using all that plastic, then there has to be room for it.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

I suggested already adding a PC sync adapter to the Powerbar, but it never happened. It would certainly be doable, but it's a bit more complicated to wire up than you might expect. It would require a toggle switch to bridge pins 1 & 2 to engage 'flash mode' and an optocoupler to convert the electrical signal to a trigger signal. I've used a similar method to convert SLR680s to take PC sync. It's definitely doable, but would add extra cost and labor to wire up. 9V would also be doable for sure, although perhaps less 'neatly' - since the box would end up being larger than the 2x AAAs. The box would also need room to store the buck converter. The 2x AAA holder really is tiny, and it does make for a very compact solution. One would also need to be careful not to insert the battery backwards, or else the buck would be fried lol Definitely an option, and perhaps I'll make a one-off to prove it's doable.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

Maybe I will build one just for you and site this comment as the inspiration. It would be a fairly trivial thing to wire up assuming the buck converter will fit in the plastic holder I have a Model 2 I could probably do it to...

[@hackaninstant]

Have you found that powering an SX-70 without a film pack inserted results in a big power drain? I found applying 6 volts without a film cartridge results in a big voltage drop with both alkaline and lithium cells...

[@theinstantcameraguy]

this would depend on how the camera is wired and in what position the camera is in. These issues factored in a lot when I invented the PolaVolt solution. In the open, erect position, on a stock SX-70, powering the camera with no pack of film would result in the motor running for a single cycle - trying to eject a dark slide. However, because no pack is inside to engage the counter mechanism, the film counter would never engage to show '10', and so while the cycle would mostly finish, the signal to the shutter solenoid is never cut. This would result in the cameras shutter staying continuously closed - drawing power from the solenoid in order to keep the blades closed. Such prolonged closure of the solenoid causes it to become red hot, and this would produce a huge drain on power. It will likely damage the camera eventually. My PolaVolt solution though bypasses the counter in such a way that this could never happen. Darkslide ejection becomes manual-only when you cut the switches to the counter. It's also wired up so that power is entirely cut from the batteries when the camera is collapsed. As a result, the batteries will NEVER drain when the camera is collapsed. Pogo-pin solutions should also produce a minimal drain when the camera is collapsed. But many of them have complex circuitry - short circuit protection, charging circuits etc that all produce low-level drain if the actual device is left switched "on" Again, the PolaVolt has no such on-off switch to accidentally forget about. If the camera is collapsed, you have peace of mind that it's switched off. In the Powerbar, battery drain is a definite possibility if you leave the bar switched on, since power is CONSTANTLY fed to the PCB, even if the camera is collapsed or the film door is open - as I demonstrated. Powering the camera through the flash socket bypasses all cut-off switches

[@hackaninstant]

@@theinstantcameraguy Thanks for the explanation! I was tinkering with powering up an SX-70 and didn't understand the big power drain and difficulty getting it to work until I inserted a cartridge, at which point everything worked normally, with normal current draw/voltage drop.

[@psb7614]

Brilliant overview, thank you yet again Jake! One question... where might one find the _Evo_?

[@theinstantcameraguy]

Since the video its been pulled from production for a redesign I'm helping with the new design so stay tuned

[@psb7614]

@theinstantcameraguy oh okay, thanks Jake. That sounds interesting- I'll keep 'em peeled...

[@theinstantcameraguy]

@@psb7614 the issue is the current design features a hard-wired battery, meaning it's not possible to replace it This introduces complications in shipping due to the lithium ion batteries involved. I'm working with Yongmin on ways to simplify the design and hopefully introduce one that we can ship without batteries to reduce complexity in shipping

[@Exxcalibur186]

Is the SX70r Evo product still available to purchase? I don't see a listing for it on their website.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

@@Exxcalibur186 is actually been pulled off the market for a redesign With input from yours truly :)

[@Exxcalibur186]

I like the sound of that! Just keep it as cheap and easy to install!

[@Markybug-Keira-Cody]

Polanthropy in the UK has a similar bar to chromatic i believe ?

[@bosworth5150]

That's for Sonar Sx70's only and doesn't have the flash plug in at the top. It's cheaper though and I've found Polanthropy to be very good.

[@Markybug-Keira-Cody]

@@bosworth5150 ah i see.. Had my cameras serviced and repaired in the past with them too !

[@K1n1c]

is there any release date on the evo? i really like that solution as it's removable and cheap with usb c. Currently using rezivot but being micro usb is annoying. Evo being much slimmer is also a plus!

[@theinstantcameraguy]

Probably best to direct questions like this to SX-70R project As I don't personally know

[@Zetaphotography]

Can’t wait for Spectra film to return lol

[@seanconnors9912]

A 600 battery could last "dozens" of packs? I've been tossing them after four uses. How long until the sonar autofocus starts to get 'lazy' and will begin to fail to make full travel. As I understand it from you and from my experience, that's the first thing to start to fail as the voltage in a 600 battery begins to drop.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

Watch the section during the Retrospekt segment where I talk about the different power needs of different cameras Model 1 cameras can last decently off crap batteries lol Sonar? Definitely not

[@sonicmistress]

Interesting Sales Video....Have to say your negative obsession with using filters is telling, many use filters with no detriment whatsoever, after all, all SX Film is, is 600 with its own 0.4 ND filter built in and nothing wrong with 160asa film as if I remember, SX-70's have used it since 1972 without issue....;) ~ Let's also talk about the elephant in the room, any adaptation will devalue your SX-70 regardless if anyone thinks otherwise, any mod/change that takes away the originality of anything is a no no for serious collectors but not once is this addressed in any 'mod' videos! Plus they are all ugly as they all change the original style of the SX-70. Still a useful video. Thanks (Yes, I do own a very nice working Sonar)

[@theinstantcameraguy]

Thank you for your comment, however I think the bulk of your comment confuses a 600 modification with an i-Type modification, and makes some erroneous assumptions about the 'value' of modified cameras and ultimately misses the point of the video Serviced, 600-capable and i-Type capable cameras consistently sell for MORE money, because they have objectively better performance than when stock. This is simply a fact. In regards to collectibility... The SX-70 is not a rare camera by any stretch (apart from some limited edition Gold models for example). Polaroid sold 1.5 million or so of them over the decade or so they were in production. I tend to cater to the market of clients that will actually USE their cameras, not just leave them on a shelf collecting dust. 99% of my clients choose to have the camera 600 converted at a minimum, since it provides a significant improvement in performance and versatility in different lighting situations. About 60% or so of my clients opt for some kind of i-Type solution, since i-Type film is cheaper and much easier to find in stores. A 600 speed mod involves replacing a capacitor, resistor or PCB depending on the method, and is an 'invisible' modification. It is only i-Type mods that alter cosmetics. In regards to film ISO, the slower film speed was likely a limitation of 1960's/70's color film technology. Truth of the matter is that Polaroid upgraded to 640ISO as soon as the chemistry was capable of it. All formats of integral film released after the 1980s were based on 640ISO film because it allowed far greater flexibility. It's the same reason we moved on from the 50ISO color films of the 1950s. And why we upgraded from 2ISO tintypes of the late 1800s As I discuss in length in the video, the main benefit of going for a higher ISO is the ability to take photos in dimmer light without motion blur. An f8 lens and 160ISO film is very limiting without a flash, tripod/long exposure or a very bright sunny day. Using a filter DOES allow you to use 600 film in an 'unmodified camera', but you do not gain any benefit of the higher ISO. They are fiddly, can come loose inside the camera, and tend to attract finger prints and dust. Which is why I don't recommend them. Lastly, 600 modifications cause me less headaches with clients. If a clients camera is left stock, I am often left having to be 'tech support' explaining why a subjects photos are blurry, or explaining why SX-70 is so hard to find in stores. Occasionally I get a client ask to leave the camera original, but most end up coming back to me to have the mod performed.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

Additionally, I do point out numerous times throughout the video that the i-Type adapters modify the look of the camera. I do not try and hide the fact that many of the adapters could be considered 'ugly', and I also demonstrate the "Powerbar", which is a removable adapter that does not alter the external cosmetics of the camera at all (although it does add a few quirks to the cameras functionality as discussed in the video) Ultimately I think you overestimate how many people care about the cosmetics Truth is that most people will pay good money for a camera that is more usable and reliable

[@seven9030]

Remember the Galaxy Note 7 which was caught on fire out of nowhere and samsung had to collect every single unit for the recall? that was because the internals were so packed it caused pressure to the battery(of course that one was lithium ion batteries but still). It it never a good idea to put pressure to any kind of batteries NEVER

[@steggg]

Anyone got news on Dennis at Chromatic Parts?

[@theinstantcameraguy]

Only what I've already said in the video text boxes

[@ytthrowaway4584]

Basically he has disappeared. He put a post in March on his Instagram saying he was hacked, then disappeared from everything. He stopped posting on Reddit too. I mean if he’s not doing too well then fair enough but acknowledge that in a public post instead of disappearing on customers like myself. I said to JustAnotherChris he had disappeared and he just got defensive and denied he had disappeared because he spoke to him that day. Apparently the wait time for a camera service is over 3 months.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

@@ytthrowaway4584 yeah that's not good... I've been hearing the same through the grapevine And have had a few clients come to me saying he still has their cameras and hasnt messaged for months

[@Ni5ei]

3:17 6V of power with 2 alkaline cells is impossible. It's 3V lithium.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

I stand corrected. If I'm honest I've never researched into this because it's never come up that I'd need to know lol My assumption was that they were doubled up alkaline calls (kinda like how a 9v battery uses many cells inside one cell) Being that they were released in 1972, I assumed lithium wouldn't have been used. And assumed it would be too expensive Seems like a lithium chemistry I've never heard of before today Lithium-Manganese dioxide, outputting 6V! Online info suggests that Polaroid used a variety of chemistries over the years. This certainly makes sense as to why they are so powerful then, and with Alkaline AAAs struggle so much Even worse then that they end up in landfill!

[@Ni5ei]

@@theinstantcameraguy Yes indeed, Lithium battery chemistry goes back a while. I have some 8mm film cameras from the sixties that are also using a replaceable lithium cell to power the light meter of the camera.

[@theinstantcameraguy]

@@Ni5ei I considered scrapping the video and re-uploading, but fortunately I think the points all come across regardless of the small mistake If anything, many of the points are reinforced, such as the landfill waste, and just how much of a bad idea it is to cram the batteries where they dont belong in the i-type hack Imagine if a pod ruptured

[@Ni5ei]

@@theinstantcameraguy Nooo you definitely don't need to re-upload. No matter what you do, people will always find something. I just thought I'd mention it so you know next time it comes up again. Not like "you made a mistake".

[@MuffSquad]

PolaroidJesus