Tudor French Hoods || Researching and Making a More Accurate French Hood

The French hood is an iconic part of Tudor fashion, and has become synonymous with the most infamous of Henry VII's wives, Anne Boleyn. But I think we've taken for granted all these years how it might be constructed. After staring at hundreds of images, searching primary sources, and reading the current scholarship, I support the theory that French hoods are made up of a cap with a pleated gold frill and a black hood that is folded back to reveal the lining, creating the "crescent" shape that we often see in portraits.
Now, this is all just experimentation and I am in no way saying this is the only way French hoods were made, but I do think it is an incredibly compelling theory, I encourage you to try your own experiments and see what you discover!
Hair taping:
Morgan Donner • I stopped wearing hair...
Tudor Tailor • Tudor hair lacing
References:
Høskuldsson, Karen Margrethe. “Hidden in Plain Black: The Secrets of the French Hood.” Medieval Clothing and Textiles 14, edited by ROBIN NETHERTON and GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER, NED - New edition ed., Boydell & Brewer, 2018, pp. 141-178. JSTOR, www.jstor.org/stable/10.7722/j.ctt1wx91p5.12.
Schuessler, Melanie. "French Hoods: Development of a Sixteenth-Century Court Fashion." Medieval Clothing & Textiles 5, edited by Robin Netherton and Gale R. Owen-Crocker, Boydell Press, 2009, pp. 129-160.
Hayward, Maria. Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii. Leeds UK: Maney Publ, 2007.
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Uploaded: elizabethancostume.net/cyte/El...
Materials:
Paste buckram: www.etsy.com/listing/46804408...
Images:
artuk.org/discover/artworks/m...
commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Us...
upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...
upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...
commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Us...
upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...
upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...
upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...
beaux-arts.dijon.fr/sites/def...
www.metmuseum.org/art/collect...
balat.kikirpa.be/photo.php?pat...
upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...
upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...
www.philamuseum.org/collectio...
upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...
upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...
commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
artuk.org/discover/artworks/a...
gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv...
commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
Music:
Suonatore di Liuto by Kevin MacLeod
Link: incompetech.filmmusic.io/song...
License: filmmusic.io/standard-license
Suonatore di Liuto by Kevin MacLeod
Link: incompetech.filmmusic.io/song...
License: filmmusic.io/standard-license
All other music from Epidemic Sound.

[@estherjonkers6540]

Came for French hoods stayed for the adorable cat 🐈

[@michellecornum5856]

Same

[@annapepple477]

Right?! Baby kitty is like “meowm! Pay me some attention!”

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

That's Bear, the haus panther. He is a very insistent cuddler!

[@estherjonkers6540]

@@TheCoutureCourtesan Bear is adorably clingy please give him scritches from me. 😍

[@sestables]

Samantha: [lots of historical and making data] Cat: pet maaaaayyy pet me pet me PEEEEEEEEET

[@Junoleda]

This makes sense with Jane Seymour’s decision to have her maids wear an English hood not a French. Her issue was not the link to Anne Boleyn (since Jane wore French hoods regularly) but she thought the French were too relaxed and informal. The English hood may have been regarded as more formal and traditional and the French more informal.

[@user-ix1rp9ff3p]

also Anne Boleyn (during her time as Queen Mary Tudor's lady-in-waiting): the Valois court is SO BORING

[@Irish_Georgia_Girl]

Is the English hood those gabled-looking ones? That look like little houses on the head?

[@Junoleda]

@@Irish_Georgia_Girl yes, the angular hoods are the English

[@NicoleRudolph]

First watch is for excitement, second for notes, and third to catch all the little details! I'm so much less terrified of this era when you explain it.

[@chelseal654]

So basically: we’ve been costuming based on an optical illusion 😂😂😂

[@Hair8Metal8Karen]

Right?! It's so cool/weird/trippy! And it just goes to show how little we actually know, which is so much more exciting than you'd think it would be 😆

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

That's certainly what it seems like! Crazy, isn't it??

[@leechowning2712]

Or the old fashioned and ever so beloved phrase in our historical texts "finish in the usual manner".

[@kweejibodali7009]

right? good one

[@AbbyCox]

THIS WAS SO GOOD and 10000x YES to being open to new information and research! ❤

[@elizabethsloan3192]

If you angle your head down just a little more, I think you would see that optical illusion of a tiara of fabric. This makes so much sense! I would absolutely buy a downloadable of this as patterns!

[@SupernovaBetty]

It so obviously evolved from the medieval hood that what you’ve done makes so so much sense. Be proud of your research and beautiful work.

[@cgg105]

My impression of the french hood derives from Hollywood, a la Anne of the Thousand Days, where the "hood" is a glorified headband, a pretty device to keep hair off the face and showcase it in back. So your interpretation comes as a huge surprise, especially the folded back hood. Thank you so much for sharing your research and subsequent results! I've been eagerly awaiting this video - great job!

[@ArtemisScribe]

It's kind of incredible that we know so very little about probably the most iconic piece of clothing from the 16th era. Thank you for doing this kind of work, practical research is so important to historical study.

[@MorganJ]

Your cat is adorable!

[@morganbaldwinmiller]

God these make so much more sense than what we see on TV shows with their big tall fat headbands. I can imagine it's difficult to really figure out historical clothing/dress off of paintings as artists tend to take liberties with perspective lol

[@wynnewhitten-holmes5090]

The elegance, the detail, the research! I love this so much.

[@medicaoctavia8002]

The cat in the beginning: “Human. HUMAN. Pet me.”

[@emmabruce4990]

French hoods are such are such an interesting topic, thank you for this video and a big yes to the option to purchase downloadable patterns!

[@aw04tn58]

Thank you for quoting the dress historians you referenced in your research. It provides a clear understanding of which resources you used. It always irks me when costubers don't quote their sources, because it's hard to verify what they say.

[@sarah-phillips]

Stops everything to watch a video on French hoods. This was so interesting! I love learning about historical fashion and this is a period of time that is one I want to know more about. Looking forward to the next round of hoods.

[@mcbrineart]

You could totally play Anne Boleyn! To me you resemble the Holbein sketches of her, so the perfect person to model the French Hood 👍😁

[@janehollander1934]

Isn't it just amazing, how she can transform herself from a beautiful 21st Woman: into a stunning & believable Tudor Lady?! 🤔👌🏻😍

[@Celebrinthal]

Every time I see her photos in the Tudor lady ensemble I have this urge to kneel down and pay my respects, I'm not lying. Anyone can dress up, but Samantha seems to become a real queen when she dons these clothes. Absolutely stunning!

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Haha thank you! I can see the similarities! Much nicer than when someone said I looked like Anne of Cleves????

[@janehollander1934]

@@TheCoutureCourtesan, still is/was Anne of Cleve's really that "ugly"?! I don't think she looks that hideous in her know portrait painting. Or is this because of how Henry VIII looked at her? Sure she was "foreign" and maybe a bit strange and different from her English contemporaries. But when he said; "she stank"....I always wonder if she really did or if Henry was smelling his own open & festering leg wound!?! Anne of Cleves is a "Winner"🏆 in my book...she didn't have to sleep with Henry, didn't die in childbirth, didn't lose her head...kept a title 🏰 & some real "dosh"💰.👌🏻😁

[@nancycampbell8671]

​@@TheCoutureCourtesan Anne of Cleves was also pretty!

[@MyleneRichard]

So... the French hood was a hood.... We should had seen that one coming! XD Great research and reconstruction! It way more logical this way as an evolution of late medieval hood. Thank you for sharing.

[@MelancholyRequiem]

THANK YOU SO MUCH. I've always thought French Hoods were oh so flattering and I've been wanting to make one and this is so unbelievably helpful.

[@reneestarling9525]

French hoods and insistent kitty cats. Prime KZbin content right here! This isn't my primary era, but now you have me wanting to plan a ren fair outfit now. And I'd totally be interested if you were to offer this as a pattern at some point.

[@18thcenturyfan]

I'm working on my Tudor ensemble for Renaissance festival right now so this is well-timed! 😍

[@dee-annegordon5959]

Given that I knew nothing about French Hood construction going in, I feel like I could actually attempt making one. You did an amazing job of explaining the various layers involved as well as the construction theories, while still be intertaining to watch.

[@bohemiansusan2897]

You've demystified the French hood for me. Thank you. I would mind paying for the patterns to make this. It would compliment my not so historic big historic tudor era patterns. Over the years now and then, I've see hoods with a widow's peak instead of a straight edge. Its rounded over the head like the French hood. Mostly have seen these seen on Spanish characters on various Tudor era shows. Not sure if real or Historywood.

[@bohemiansusan2897]

Would should read as wouldn't. Damn autocorrexct.

[@nawabwajidalishahawadh1349]

The widow's peak has been interpreted as the bongrace,a separate band of fabric pinned to shade the head.But it becomes more common by the 50s

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Thank you! Having a point or widow's peak becomes fashionable after about the 1550s, and really takes off during the last half of the 16th century. Hopefully I'll address that in the next French hood video!

[@counter10r]

Wow! I made my first French hood in high school (over 40 years ago), when I helped costume our choir's madrigal dinner. I made a few in college as well, always on the wired buckram tiara model. While I came pretty close to what I was seeing in Tudor portraits, the practical wearing was not ideal. Of course, the internet didn't exist and I was relying on not-great reproductions in art books and line drawings in mid-century or earlier costume books. Thanks for your very close observations (as well as those of Høskuldsson and Schuessler et al). The theory that Holbein and other portraitists fudged the perspective to show off the billiments blows my mind! I am very much looking forward to your latter 16th century French hood investigations!

[@lenayasutake6824]

I’ve always admired this period but only watched this video because I follow you. I can’t believe how fascinating and informative this video was. I seriously felt like a historical detective and intrepid explorer. Are you getting me hooked on Tudor fashion!?

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Haha yay! Come to the dark side!

[@AshLG]

What a lightbulb moment - like you said, you can't unsee it once its pointed out. I somehow never questioned that these headband things were being referred to as "hoods" but that seems so weird now I've seen your reconstructions

[@AshLG]

Also hell yes, I would love to get a hold of those patterns!

[@Lambecht]

I want to leave a thoughtful, appreciative comment over how accessible and clear your theories and techniques are, but I'm melting too much over kitty.

[@Lambecht]

Big yes to purchasing a pattern, too.

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Thank you! That's Bear. This is his KZbin debut! Usually his sister tries to get in the shot but she's on bedrest for an injury.

[@ItsJustLisa]

I completely get why you said about once you see the cap folded back, you can’t unsee it. This makes so much sense! You did beautiful work, but I wish you’d kept them on screen longer.

[@AmaraJordanMusic]

I've been away from my black cat Arwen for six weeks now (longer than ever before) and have two weeks to go until I can see her again, so your rapscallion is really doing a number on my heart, waiting so patiently for some pets. 😊 I'm super down with the optical witchery info and the history of the French hood and how it was basically politicized, but like, seriously, your cat is amazing.

[@irenedavis4629]

Sooo awesome! Thank you for sharing. A French hood is one of “those” things on my list. And by the way, your kitty is adorable! Such a wonderful helper.

[@ninabooker2904]

Great job! It’s amazing how your look transforms from a 21st century to 16th century woman. WOW

[@moonargentum]

I just love your way of presenting your work, I feel like I'm attending a conference on experimental historical research! I'm currently making a 15th-century hood and I can totally see how this evolved into what you made, especially the earlier version. It's fun to play around with the different ways of folding the front back! Seeing how the men's chaperone also evolved from a hood worn differently, I think this idea of evolution makes much more sense than an entirely different kind of headwear suddenly springing into existence. Thank you for doing this research and being so inspiring!

[@murheenkryynit]

You might be interested in taking a look at the bindmössa/styckemössa/tykkimyssy of the Nordic folk dresses. It is usually considered a descendant of the French hood, which survived in rural/conservative festive dress until the 19th century, and is today a part of many National costumes in Sweden an Finland (and Norway? I'm not sure!). In these late echoes of the fashion, there is a separate "piece" ("stycke" or "tykki"), essentially a strip of lace-trimmed linen cut to match the front of the hardened silk cap, which could indicate a separate coif with a decorated front edge having been worn with the earlier fashions.

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Oh very cool! I will definitely check it out!

[@mcomeslast]

Love this! I’m wanting to recreate a Juliet cap (the one that Grace Kelly wears with her civil wedding suit-also going to make the suit). The pics show the structure but this will help on actual construction. And I love the research!

[@stace0712]

I love this video! The amount of research and study you put into it is amazing. I've always thought that French hoods were flat to the head because every image you see that is a side view of the subject shows it as such. In portraits and drawings, I always felt that it was a matter of perspective that made them appear to sit over the head. I had no idea about the fold, and now that you mention it I can see it. The sheer amount of effort you put into your work is so wonderful to see. I'm anxiously awaiting your future videos on this subject and many more!

[@an_evening_star_rose5991]

They turned out phenomenally! I love how much research you put in and I, for one, would LOVE to buy a pattern from you!

[@theedwardianwriter]

This was such an incredible watch, and an amazing lesson in clothing history. Your video on gabled hoods was the first time I’ve seen somebody go in-depth about these accessories, and I was totally floored that we don’t even know how exactly they were made and worn! Thank you for the video continuing the research and prototyping into French hoods. I think your point about understanding that research is an ongoing process, and admitting that we don’t know is such an important reminder, especially regarding history where it is often assumed that something is just known.

[@lauraguglielmo]

I'm really really loving how in depth your research is, I know so little about renaissance dress, it's so interesting!

[@Hair8Metal8Karen]

These are beautiful and it's such an interesting subject. I love that you're just going back to square one and working from the ground up without letting everything we thought we knew influence your results.

[@suzieq722]

Yes on the patterns and LOVED this video! I love your experimental archaeology-like approach to fashion history! I could watch hours of this!

[@AnneOfCleves1515]

Thank you so much for this video! I'm always a fan of learning more about Tudor fashion history, but this video especially has been one of the most eye-opening, and has changed the way I look at the French hood completely. Now that you've pointed it out, I can't unsee how so many portraits (and also the odd sculpture!) really do seem to show the French hood as being constructed the way you've theorised. Thank you for doing the research, the experimentation, and the work involved in putting this theory to the test; because the finished result with these French hoods is so elegant. Always looking forward to the next video! ✨

[@999Giustina]

This is amaaaaaaaazing! Your hoods look so very much like the images! Your choices are informed and make sense to me. I've seen interpretations that are just so strange but yours give me a "feeling" almost a familiarity that seems to fit very well into the period. Wonderful!

[@MollyWeiss]

Mind Blown by that fold. Amazing research with stunning results!

[@mokanger97]

This is absolutely incredible! It really shows how much dress history is a new and evolving field. I would 100% be interested in downloading the patterns you've used for this

[@deborahrochefort9794]

Wow, so excellent! Excellent application of research and experimentation, with splendid examples of period images that were indeed eye-opening. Beautiful, methodical work (and you looked absolutely beautiful in your work as well). Also, I loved the music in the background; it complemented your video perfectly.

[@ceciliavaldes3159]

I love your videos and how well researched they are. Very encouraging when it comes to try new things!!! Your kitty is so cute!! 😻

[@entertaininghistory2524]

Pattern? Yes please! Fantastic job and love the new info!

[@LadyMinaMasters]

What a cute house panther. 🐈

[@Majestybird]

I am beyond excited after watching this. It makes so so much more sense! It literally was just my brain going *boom* I used to look at paintings that showed really early hoods with the front flipped back and it never occurred to me that it was the same for later hoods as well 🤦‍♀️ Great job!! The tudor tailor ladies mentioned your video in their newsletter today and agreed with your video and said they are creating a new pattern based off this idea 👍

[@carmenm.4091]

I love love love your no nonsense style! I think you go about your research very logically. ❣️

[@bryonyniamh]

I love your videos, they are so interesting and informative. Definitely in favour of the adorable void at the beginning guest starring more often! Can't wait to see your next video ☺️

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Thank you! I was really surprised when he jumped in and he was so well behaved. His calico sister has appeared in previous videos but this was his first time!

[@colorsynccolorado7967]

That was mind blowing! And made so much sense. Thank you so much for this video. And I’d definitely like to buy the pattern.

[@racheljackson4144]

Those both look so incredibly good, and I'm marveling at how similar they are to portraiture of the time- you've done fantastic work!

[@quicksilvertears921]

This is incredible 👏 I love how you explain your research and try things out. I know this took a ton of time.

[@Saragracetk]

LOVE your approach! LOVE the results!

[@martharice1110]

I appreciate how detailed is your research. I definitely want your patterns. Love your black cat!

[@ejmmsp]

Very well done! I look forward to your next videos. It must be an enormous amount of work.

[@vikkibarnes4624]

This is so amazing and I've really enjoyed learning something I never expected about something so iconic to Tudor fashion!

[@seaschulainn]

This style hood really suits you, great work ❤️

[@annaglover2470]

This information helps finally make sense of some of the portraits I just could not figure out! Thank you, thank you, thank you for the detailed look at the French hood of the first part of the 16th century!! The patterns would be greatly appreciated, too. Can't wait for the 1550s and later video.

[@meepMepp]

this is so cool!! I love the hoods you made and i'm fascinated with the construction! It's definetly a lot different from what i thought they were lol

[@ladymaiden2308]

What a beauty! Amazing how well you are suited to both the cat eye glasses and the Tudor style with the French hood!

[@widowrumstrypze9705]

The tutorial that I didn't know I needed, but now feel VASTLY more informed about, thank you!

[@LatelyFashionable]

These are so elegant and lovely! I love seeing how you put them on, finally demystifying these (to me) baffling but oh-so-interesting objects! Of course, now you're removing an impediment to me ever starting Tudor costuming... I've always thought to myself "I love the gowns, but could never figure out how to make those headdresses, so I'll never bother to try." But you've made it seem so possible!

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Hurray! You can definitely conquer Tudor and I'll be happy to help!

[@DipityS]

Very interesting and surprisingly flattering - thank you for experimenting and allowing us to share your journey.

[@DipityS]

I also have to add that kitty added immeasurably to the video's quality - at first I didn't notice the lovely lady giving the talk as all I could see was kitty 😊

[@Bygone_Wardrobes]

This was so interesting! I think you are really on to something here. I'd love to be able to buy your pattern 😊

[@ginadelfina5887]

Beautiful! Lots of interesting ideas and the end results look so much like the portraits.

[@Rozewolf]

Experiential archeology is the best way to work through discoveries when it comes to historical clothing. Thank you for a great video!

[@michellet22]

great video!! love your recreations

[@toadhalltea122]

I literally shouted “HOLY SHIT!” out loud the second you said it was the hood folded back. It makes so much more sense now!!! Thank you for your detailed research and experimentation! I think you’ve really put a great interpretation out there with this theory (and yes, I’d absolutely love to snag patterns from you!!).

[@rebeccadivenere2515]

Literally said "Hell yeah!!" out loud to myself when I saw this video come up in my subscription feed. Love your videos!

[@gillianstapleton7741]

Excellent research and making. Fantastic.

[@RainyDayBricks]

Well done! I can relate to the battle with perfection. I definitely look forward to seeing more of your work .

[@sArnoldsdotter]

I've never been so excited about French hoods in my life 😍 The simplicity of construction screams of historical probability. Amazing work!

[@HappyKatRocks]

So interested in being able to pay for a pattern! I think this is the first time I've looked at a French hood and thought it was doable to make, and it makes so much sense that there isn't 8 million parts to it. Really enjoyed the video and excited for the later hood video!

[@Pour_La_Victoire]

Wow, you are BRILLIANT! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Seeing the hood folded over the cap 🤯

[@ClearlyPixelated]

You did so much research. Well done! Thank you for making this video!

[@jameswhalen4507]

Excellent research and interpretation. Thank you for this fascinating deep dive!

[@passionknitly5247]

100% agree with your suggestions of the hood at 9mins. I've been looking at the embroidered jackets and lace of late elizabethian/jacobean, and that was my first thought before you'd even said you felt the dating was wrong... that, or its a super elaborate night cap. Your versions look so much more comfortable than other imaginings of the french hood.

[@gingerest-ale6419]

I loved this video!! French is my native language, so I wanted to share some info on the term “habillement”: it’s a French word that means “how someone is dressed” and is a term still used today! Today, we use the term “habillement” to refer to how someone is dressed in terms of clothing and we use the term “habillage” to refer to how something is dressed in terms of decorations/objects (think of how we use the term “set dressing”). However, it’s entirely possible that the historical use of the term “habillement” covered both of these uses and therefore didn’t exclusively refer to clothes, but also mean how something is decorated. Therefore, it makes complete sense to me that would see the term habillement (or the shortened version, “billement”) used to refer to other things, since might have been the catch-all for any ornementation added to garments! Final note, for any English speakers wondering how to pronounce “habillement” in French, you would say it like ah-bee-yuh-ma (the H and T are silent!) Good luck on further research!!!

[@fionasiobhanpowell7146]

This is brilliant! I have been "fighting" with French hoods since I was in school, and fascinated by Holbein, and by trying to get the costume for a school play accurate (that was 1971!). Since that time I cant count the number of times I have fought with buckram/cardboard/ plastic/velvet/linen and beads, and each time come away with the feeling that I'd once again, missed some obvious clues! Thankyou! Brilliant!

[@Hobbitmetalgirl]

I would totally buy patterns!! This is the best video on French hoods I've seen! I love how well you present your research, it makes my brain so happy. Also, I got my undergraduate degree in history and your videos just make me want to go apply to grad school 😊

[@jogordon4218]

This was brilliant! I've been wanting to make a French hood for years, but haven't because I couldn't see how it worked. Your explanation makes absolute sense, and I would be very interested in your patterns.

[@KattGothica]

Wow I love all this research and it's so great to learn new things and exploring the unknown!!!

[@emiishino5422]

Great research!

[@angelafoxmusic7265]

Fascinating! Thankyou. This was very absorbing. I'm inspired!

[@madpenguinina]

This was so informative thank you!!!

[@dawnvickerstaff9148]

Definitely would like a downloadable pattern for the French hood. Thank you for all your research and experimentation. We all benefit!

[@bellarose8511]

It's really pretty actually & so authentic!

[@animosity9197]

This makes so much more sense as a continuation of the medieval hood fashions than the headband thing! I am astonished and convinced. I would also totally love to buy a pattern to attempt my own!

[@Celebrinthal]

Excellent research! I don't have any deeper knowledge about Tudor era clothing (read: I've never attempted to make an outfit) and this was really eye opening. On a side note: I love your style!

[@Neddoest]

I sure hope you come out with your “1550s and later” hood video in the next couple of days lol I’m subscribing just in case lol Great video! Thank you

[@kathycase9774]

Wow! Thank you! Your research was just what I needed.

[@JamieHaDov]

Golly I can’t wait for the second video

[@kweejibodali7009]

thank you again, this is great , what exquisite detail

[@nfrancis47]

well done, this was interesting to watch

[@gabriellygiovana6450]

Hi, im a Brazilian fashion studant, and u video is the only one that really helped me to do my project, so thank u.

[@jgray852]

We need to see how YOU did the hair taping, it looks amazing

[@saharazaramorocco6273]

This was amazing! Thank you so much for sharing your research into this. And yes, I'd definitely be interested in a pattern. :-)!

[@mmcgartland2095]

I learned a lot of great new information, thanks