not getting enough oil to your chain? THESE EASY MODS WILL IMPRESS YOU!

[@markyakubovsky3380]

Great Video! I thought I was the only one.. I use a small round file with the point ground off and roll it to port it out- BAM- oil on the chain. Cooler, smoother, longer chain life.. Yet when I mentioned it to our Stihl dealer he looked shocked and started talking about designers with engineering degrees and voiding warranties on new saws. All I said was "wow- common sense ain't common I guess."

[@garyalford9394]

I think EPA has alot to do with it! yeah doesn't make sense!

[@klystronvariant2686]

I have a Husqvarna 450 Rancher that has had an oiling problem from day one. Even when It was new the chain was always dry and I would having to stop cutting and pour oil on the chain. Ended up replacing the entire oil pump but that didn't help. After seeing this video I drilled the oil holes to about twice the diameter of the factory holes and this solved my oiling problem. Thanks for the video.

[@JoeMama-gx5gw]

I have the same problem with my 450. Did you drill the oil pump hole bigger or the bar oil oil bigger?

[@farmfitnesspham4913]

@@JoeMama-gx5gw the hole on the bar bec I have the same saw same problem

[@Camocountry1]

Thumbs up. Its common since. Its like they manufacture the hole small so you buy more bars and chains.

[@YasilTorvanna]

Yet you cant spell SENSE correctly. Pathetic.

[@kevinmaxam2414]

You reaffirmed what my mentor old time logger taught me. He always started the saw and checked on the end of a cut to make sure oil was slinging of the end of the bar. He also said to fill bar oil to max but fuel mix to 3/4 or less so I would run out of fuel but still have bar oil. Thank you sir. Be safe and be careful

[@campnoutdoors1621]

Ironhorse, I fell timber for over 30 years most of which was on the west coast! I've ran a 36" bar a ton and this is what I learned. I started useing used engine oil for bar oil and my bar life was greatly extended. The myth is that engine oil is to thin. Its absolutely not true. I have tested in a big cut with many professional fallers who questioned me and after a cut my bar was cool to the touch whereas there bar would be fairly warm. The difference is bar oil is bio degradable and engine oil isn't. Put bar oil in your engine and see how fast it wipes out your bearings. Used engine oil has lubricating properties far superior to bar oil. Enouph so that I went from wearing out a bar every few months to useing a bar for well over a year. Have a great day sir and thank you for your vast knowledge that you share

[@josephsalazar3817]

I was thinking the same thing I said man these hole on the bar are too small . I said wow I'm glad veterans like you share your knowledge. now I know what needs to be done to my bar, it was leaking too much oil and not getting enough to my chain.

[@nathanielw.h.9039]

You're a boss Ironhorse...great tip that I will do on all my saws now. Thanks again for all your knowledge and also for answering the email I sent you right away. You're one of the few real guys out there. All the best and God bless

[@anthonypryor2852]

Spot on Harvey. I’m old west coast logger. Ran oilers wide open. Old guy showed me to drill bars out like that back in the 80s. Oil is cheaper than bars and chains totally agree. Solid sound advice brother. God Bless

[@blackwillow2884]

Thanks for the great tip Harvey. Maybe the bar makers leave the hole smaller so people that don’t know this trick will buy more bars as they wear out prematurely. You are looking good Harvey👍👍👍

[@tomsmith4484]

Spot on!

[@davidn.331]

I just found your site yesterday. Great old time informational sharing of knowledge and wisdom. Keep up the work! 👍

[@scottmarshall6766]

Good one. I've been making paper bar plate gaskets to keep the leakage down and help hold the bar, and I like the results. I tried duct and electrical tape, but the adhesive turns to slime with the oil. Plain brown paper bags work well, but copier paper works well too, and you can use the plate to trace out the slot and holes with a pencil in a pinch or put the plate on the printer/copier and print onto heavy print paper or cardstock. Then stack or fold a few layers and cut out a bunch with an X-acto and gasket/leather punch set while watching videos. I keep a sandwich bag of them in my saw kit for each saw. I'm also careful to clean the bar and plates of all sawdust residue with paper towels and carb cleaner. The gaskets seem to help hold the bar from shifting up/down with less severe nut torque as well. I can't believe I never thought to open up the bar feed holes. Seems obvious once you know it, but it's not. Thanks! I have a new project on my list!

[@Saw_Squatch]

Great tip as always especially with sealing behind the plate

[@Grumpy58]

Thanks for all the tips .Harvey.

[@patthesoundguy]

It's like you read my mind... Sunday afternoon I was testing a 371 for a buddy and found the bar wasnt getting oil. The brand new bar which I ordered in for him the oil passage was not connected at all to the groove of the bar. Good thing I found the problem before he put the saw in his new mill he ordered... I have a secomd new bar for the same guy that has a similar issue, they list the bar fits his saw but the oiler does not line up with anything on the bar. I have to mod it like you show. That's what happens with stuff like that where they list so many saws a bar fits.

[@johnandcarolynmills3061]

Thanks a bunch , this old dog learned something ,,,,today.

[@LumberjackSmokestack]

So true Harvey! Great vid.

[@yungsmile7546]

This is just what I was thinking needs to be done on my new Echo CS620PW 27" that I've installed a new Oregon 36" bar and Archer ripper for milling. Thanks for sharing the simplicity of it.

[@dynojoemods2764]

Great info!! Thank you for sharing. I have see those pained bars with the hole very restricted with paint alone. Good idea before just tossing "new " bars on.

[@joshuajohnson4396]

Thank you for for sharing your knowledge passed down from Mr Bob Johnson. It's a shame that so many people try to hide things from everyone else in order to keep a secret. I love you and people just like you. You're a truly wonderful person who makes my world better. THANKS AGAIN

[@briansmith1738]

Good information, I'll try opening the hole up for the next load of logs. Thanks

[@matthewbegin3462]

Thanks Harvey, Appreciate passing on your wisdom.

[@karlbuttler]

I was looking at that, when I built my West Coast saw, I was thinking, jeez that hole sure is small. Great tip.......k

[@shawnsingleton3034]

So crazy my father used to do this and I did it on my 461 works great 👍

[@mmg6282]

Great tip Harv. I’ve drilled out a couple of oil holes but nothing that big. Now I know the trick, use a dremel to shape the hole instead of a drill bit making it perfectly round. You know something is wrong when your tuning your saw, running it high rpm which means it’s pumping oil and you find a lot of oil running out of the saw behind the bar cover. That oil should have been carried down the bar rail and slung off the end. I’ll have to re-examine the hole alignment, how well it seals to the bar, and size/shape of the oiling hole. Thanks Harvey.

[@erikredbeard87]

Harvey, this video is perfect for me. I have an old 272xp that I thought had an oil pump problem. Figured out the Oil pump was just fine. I just wasn’t getting it to my bar like I knew it should be. This video here helped me out. Thank you

[@sundial6919]

One o the most informative saw vids ive seen in a while . Thanks Mr Harvey . Dony boy great about actually sharing too

[@AimGobalWorldBibleSchool]

Thanks pap, I will also try to use , used oil ....

[@robertdouglas3456]

Great information Ironhorse! Some of your more expensive bars are opened up more! It does make a big difference! Keeping the area clean also with good oil! Thank you & God Bless your family! 🇺🇸🙏🇺🇸🙏🇺🇸🙏

[@michaelhumphreys2118]

Hey Man! I've been watchin for over a year. An I believe you have given me the itch. To tear into a chainsaw. An I have seen your Holzfforma video. So really! You have helped me decide. To get a Holzfforma G660 with a 28 inch bar. Because I think that is a weird size for a bar. Had a Stihl MS660 with a 32in bar a few years back. An I really liked it. But the price. Scary considering what we are goin through down in the States. Anyway! I figure I'll run it for awhile. An the next time I get a few bills ahead. Take what the Ironhorse has taught me. An show my Buddies what a ported saw is. I've lost all the wise ole guys I used to run with. Pulling logs with a horse. Off some pretty rough country. Just to get a couple hundred a peace. After loadin an haulin on an old wore out Chevy one ton an a trailer. Thats all we had. But I wouldnt trade those days for nothin in this world. An you remind me of a time long gone now. I love you man. Thank you!

[@DanielFSimkins]

Excellent idea! When I am in hardwood milling the chain heats up quick. Thanks Iron Horse.

[@kennethsonier1766]

Good morning from Cape Cod ⛵ I've got an MS 190 Stihl that's never oiled properly, I'm going out to the barn right now at 5:45 in the morning to modify the bar and see how it turns out. Thanks for the info ✌️🇺🇲

[@JustMe-gw3eo]

Thanks, excellent video

[@ted7x]

been learning so much from watching you share your years of experience in these videos, absolutely amazing and humbling. thank you so much

[@paulhare662]

Bought my first saw, an 024av, when I was 18. First time I took the bar off I looked at the oiling passages and thought, bigger is better and drilled the holes larger. Still have that bar, It's my root and stump bar now.

[@jackhammer8563]

You’re a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for the advice.

[@CharlesBrisco]

I've cut slots in my bars before an I use a used sawsaz blade as a bar Grove cleaner works good

[@DanielZuluagaVidaenAntioquia]

Sir, this is the best information I've got on this matter on all the internet. Thank you!

[@perrylongjr7478]

Awesome Tip, thanks for taking the time to share the knowledge you have. It really helps.

[@angusmacmillan5365]

Thanks, good advice! I have the same problem of not getting enough oil to the chain. Now I can fix it.

[@Finom1]

Great educational video!!!

[@jasonhayes4171]

Excellent tip of the day.

[@rooster3019]

Another tip from an old hand, When placing a chain on a bar, use a pumper oil can to pre-oil the bar groove top, nose, and bottom with chain'n bar oil. Just like in your truck or car motor, the initial "dry start" will create fast wear. I see "experts" all the time on KZbin putting new chain on new bars DRY and the reving it up, I guess they like filing the burr off the sides of the bar...

[@theironhorse6600]

I agree! Always pre oil a new bar!

[@academicmailbox7798]

Good tip, a smaller pumper oil can and enough bar oil to fill it with is probably one of the cheapest couple of saw maintenance items that one can obtain, relative to costs of purchase of the actual chainsaw bar one is trying to protect and save. A couple of high quality 24 inch Husky bars this summer made a big hole 'in my pocket' sure enough. Still worth it, they're heavy but I find them safe to employ for sawing through 'dense', tougher hardwoods. However, I'd also like to keep them in their present condition for as long as possible.

[@academicmailbox7798]

The Oregon bars are nice and lightweight . . . but can really overheat, owing to shortages of bar oil getting to where it's needed. I have to go and see again what my pumps are set to. And see if it's worth closing the pump adjustment a bit on my shorter bars. Or not. Come to think of it, my Oregon bars were obtained to test out longer bars and chains, and at that point I think I ought to have opened up the pump adjustment at that point. As a matter of basic procedure (longer bar and chain, increase oil flow if possible).

[@alanwatts9232]

Good info, thanks Harvey. Hope you're going well.

[@shroomssawshop4401]

Dear Iron horse, love your videos. Looking forward to all your videos and the new future its going to be rough but you can do it I have faith in you!!

[@michaelwhiteoldtimer7648]

Thanks I was looking at my bar and it had a small oil hole, I am doing this trick

[@cherithutube]

Very interesting talk Sir, appreciated. I have had one Husqvarna for over 30 years and recently picked up a BU-KO saw. Their instructions are not to use wasted or regenerated oil for the bar, but use 10w-30 engine oil.

[@justinweaver8787]

Great tips sir i been doin my bars had not thought of the bar plates until u demonstrated it!! I see new bar plates an permatex happen to my 3 main work saws 4sure!!! 066mag 395xp ms461!! Thank u sir.

[@crankupthechainsaw]

Never thought of making the hole on the bar bigger. Thank you for this!

[@WolfgangR75]

Men i run saws now 30 + years, and my small one stihl is a 440...+064 and a 660 . fuc.. i leared a lesson. thx a lot. greetings from germany

[@anonymous-hz7yp]

First off, I've learned a lot from you, and am grateful for your videos. As a bonus to your knowledge, your voice and demeanor are just relaxing in general and put me at ease. Now for the meat and taters- the newer style Oregon Power Match bar has been real grime collector in my experience. Brand new bar with a brand new chain, and it still fills the rail up with gunk incredibly quickly. Is this a fluke deal, or have others been experiencing the same thing? My Stihl bars don't seem to collect anywhere near the amount of gunk as the Oregon. Going to buy a Christmas tree bit right now to try and help this bar out a bit. Thanks again brother!

[@Chucky-b7v]

Thank you so much with this great information, I for one will be trying both of your suggestions as soon as I can. Cheers…

[@victoryfirst2878]

I really like your channel fella. The hole size you increased really makes a good improvement in reducing friction on the bar and chain. How do you feel about using canola oil instead of bar oil ??? The cost is so much less and you can just dip the bar tip into a container of canola oil to help the roller nose get a drink too. vf

[@HighMaintenancePS]

My old mate ran used engine oil for years. His logic was shit, it only needs to get slippery and is only on the bar and chain for a minute.

[@victoryfirst2878]

@@HighMaintenancePS I presume that using any liquid that has slip can do the job. The cost of bar lube at stores today is just crazy for cheap oil with additives. Then it is just absorbed by the chips and pollutes the environment. Nice work and peace too. vf

[@TheLawnmowerLady]

Canola oil is often used on saws in the food industry.

[@victoryfirst2878]

@@TheLawnmowerLady I have been using canola oil in chainsaw bar lube for so many years that I truly do not remember when I started to use the natural canadian oil. Using used motor oil wears the bar and chain way faster as the suspended dirt particles and acids in the dinosaur oil. The toxicity of petroleum verses organic vegetable oil is just the way to go these days. I got the idea from the food industry when I repaired machines used by that field. Thanks for the comment The Lawnmower Lady. Peace vf

[@MrBearbait75]

When I change my oil on the cars and trucks I drain the bottles into a gallon can and use that as bar oil. Nice clean auto oil. I do think since it's thinner than regular bar oil it tends to leak out when the saw is unused. Any thoughts?

[@CATES2211]

Great video, Harvey. I've been doing the same thing for a couple years now. It really works wonders!

[@nicovmods]

great info, thanks for sharing :)

[@jacobnelson9144]

Glad to see you out and about.

[@alantippett7602]

This makes perfect sense, thanks!

[@markwalker5231]

Great tip, from Western Australia.

[@manuelchaidez1561]

Nice informative video thank you iron horse. With my mcculloch if I need more oil I either manual pump or just give the pump a 1/4 turn out.

[@thomasqqcouperji4491]

Clearly industry wanting more business through premature bar and chain wear was having a problem with a Stihl bar know what to do now cheers

[@PoisonShot20]

I think is Goverment regulations., the green deal, you know! Like the New Deal, and we pay the price, always.

[@kevinz763]

EPA has lots to do with dry chains been going to do this to my bars also!! Even my new tsumura bars oil very little stihl bars are stingy when cutting ash

[@will7its]

EPA yep, you nailed it.....

[@joutdoorsmen23]

Thanks for sharing your tips very appreciated

[@stevehdd9929]

Thank you. I was having problems with my 272 and now I have a solution.

[@fredio54]

My bars use the unused tensioning hole for oil feed, one of them underdelivers. However there is ample supply channel there. Two saws get wet along the top edge and bleed out both holes in the nose. One carries the oil all the way back to the sprocket and throws it off under the cover. Buggered if I know.

[@tcurlyleethompson1424]

I knew all this friend....but you do what l can't,explaine it...l belive you helped many today. Thanks Ironhorse!

[@randallmarsh446]

Thank you very much for that info,,i just bought an oregon 20 inch bar and I wasnt getting any oil to the bar,, Im using a 619 Mchoula ,, I was fixing to teardown the saw but after seeing this hopefully this solves my problem,,

[@derickchristensen3219]

Thank you! I noticed how small the hole was on my bar and you reaffirmed my thought on drilling it out.

[@michaelste5985]

I have a 372 Husqvarna and a neotec bar and chain I get the oil hole on the bar gets clogged like a half a tank of gas and it won’t oil the bar . What can I do to keep the hole free from getting clogged ?

[@jonatanrq1304]

Que grande!!!! Muy buena informacion!!!! Saludos desde Chubut, Patagonia Argentina!

[@woodydavis8287]

Thanks for sharing this performance multiplier. I hate a dry bar.

[@PoisonShot20]

That is what I tell her!😅

[@matthijsverweijmeren6114]

😊Also check your oilscreen and tankvent. I had an oilscreen completely clogged with very fine dirt. Previous owner put old dirty oil in. Your tank vent can be too much restrictive. Recheck your flow with cap tight and loose to compare. One of best bar oil according Project Farm: Harvest King

[@PoisonShot20]

I heard that used hadrylic oil can be use on chains, do you know anything about it? I'm about to change the trans/ hadrylic oil on my John Deere.

[@matthijsverweijmeren6114]

@@PoisonShot20 I think you can use it like old filtered motoroil. But check how the oil sticks to the bar and chain. I also don't know what the anti wear package of hydraulic oil is. Just try it. If the chain/ bar gets hot with a sharp chain and chain loosens up than it's not usable. However the oil is for free and if your bar and chain just wear a bit faster than with regular bar and chain oil, you just change your bar and chain somewhat more often. Just economics.

[@PoisonShot20]

@@matthijsverweijmeren6114 I'll do that. I have and old chainsaw, I will use it as a guineapig.

[@brianmorrow6355]

I've noticed newer bars last 10 years have those small holes in them and I just don't understand why I drill em out on the drill press

[@kevintanner5307]

Thank you for this video you may have just solved my problem I'm going to drill that out and make it a little bigger replace plate Shield thank you sir. God bless

[@-_-MARANTZ]

Screw them small holes. Really great video. :) thankyou IRONHORSE

[@simonmorris8651]

Solid gold advice and demonstrations, thanks so much for your time and effort 👍👌👏

[@jameswilson322]

Hary , im so happy you found out what has been making you feel like sh-t . Not to happy about the cure . Its not to bad as long as you get good fish ,, I have a fishmarkeet near me that sells fresh fish from the straits of mackinaw. Lake mi or Huron. The next time I m there I'll send you some frozen in dryice. All the good Stuff. Thanks for the video ol buddy

[@rob.1963]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge, I hate a hot chain and bar, I will be modifying all my slow oiling kit..... not the Sachs Dolmars, they are fine but the Stihl I find are mean with the bar oil.

[@Forged721]

Superb,,I'm a novice but love me saw this really helps

[@curtisbrowning4682]

Great video thanks for posting.. I've been having problems with mine even after replacing the oil pump!

[@skravlesen]

Wow, this is going to help me a lot! Thanks😁

[@evankibbe590]

That was very valuable information Harvey !!! Thank you 😊 Oh by the way my blood sugar was 103 this morning 🌄 and no diabetic meds !!! Just diet!!! 😊😊😊😊🌎🌞👍👍👍👍👍

[@user-ug2rn7sr9i]

I've actually used RTV behind the plate you mentioned and on homeowner saws I have also made gaskets on the bar, used tape in layers to get the thickness I wanted and shape. Then put RTV down and used a card swiped over the tape to remove any extra RTV wait 5min remove tape and let it sit overnight. And bam oils flowing again. Bar must be cleaned before you do anything. But I'll definitely be opening up the holes from this point on. From Wisconsin Thanks for the Tip Iron Horse

[@lilaboys4257]

Thanks for all the great content!

[@darrelljohnson4658]

Thanks for class sawrus 😊

[@timbarden4578]

Great tip.I been around long enough to know that one..cost of bars are threw the roof..as is bar oil..but it does really make stuff last longer..I fling lots myself..12$ a gallon gotta make a man puke. 👍👍

[@waynegilmore6805]

Love watching ur video s

[@jimgroulx3956]

Hey Harv thanks for the vid. Very helpful info that will be used.

[@willarddunn8552]

I worked in a gas station in Humboldt county, CA.. I sold re-refined oil ( used oil that was refined again) to fallers (logging). They were using it for their bar oil. Once I told some of them I could sell them to them much cheaper by the barrel they were ordering by barrel and some ordered two barrels at a time. The owner of station said he couldn't figure out why I selling more oil then the other seven stations he owned combined. This was in the late 70's. Costumers complained about the oil prices but once I told what the price was for a case they snatched up for a case.

[@Huntoutdoors]

My saw feels at times it doesn't get enough oil and I'm gonna try this out thank u for sharing ironhorse

[@scottewen9260]

Great tip. Thanks much. Will be doing that in the morning.

[@DiogenesWasRight90]

just bought my first chainsaw ever this year. family did logging generations back. rest in piece bob, great vid, thank you sir.

[@jaymessmall7745]

That's what I'm talking about, thank you so much for your time and like always your help. God bless you and your family and all your followers. With love Jay small

[@jonathanmathau7401]

Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom

[@elijahmerrill9045]

Popping in to point out that there is nothing gained by having an oil hole in your bar that is larger in diameter than the oil line. That's as large as you need to go, as nothing you do to the bar is changing the flow rate.

[@BrianDoherty-e8s]

Amen. These "common sense" guy always have some un thought out notions that look like they would work, but don't. These are the same kind of guys who remove intake tubing from vehicle engines to make the engine "breath better," as if all the engineers who pour big money into designing these system didn't know what they were doing.

[@chrisallen3741]

Wow, thats awesome….my chainsaw just empties out after i shut it off…i have a 261 and it cuts like crazy and i love the power…..im a woman and the bigger saws seem to have too much for wood. Could you tell me if i should junk this? I love all the older things that were made in the past. I even have an ole unisaw made by delta called the bullet motor and love it. Could you tell me if i could fix it? I dont want to send it out if its not going to cost much or if its something simple

[@guyjones3665]

Drilled 28" oregon bar oil ports to x2 size.. on dolmar.. now no stretch.. 50/50 bar n engine oil mix..👍💪🤠

[@stephenbonawitz2751]

when i clean my bar i use a old hacksaw blade go from the sprocket back to the end then use a small tiped screw driver fo the oil holes

[@ToddAdams1234]

Same thing with me, but it needs to be a tiny screwdriver for the bar holes if you want thru-n-thru passage for stock bars. Modded should be no problem for your average smaller screwdriver though. Good thoughts just the same 👍

[@LHLWASRIGHT]

I'm no logger, but I depend on my Stihl MS170 to get firewood. I have never been satisfied with oil volume to the bar. Now I know.

[@mrb1864]

The newer made ms170/180 models are real stingy on oil, you can fit bigger flow stihl pump 1123 640 3201, enlarging bar hole to a slot to run inline to the feed slot in plastic hosing will help too. other issues can be oil hose in tank gets kinked as makes a tight bend inside tank (spring coiled around outside of hose in bend spot can solve this, also the rubber duck bill vents are not the best, can change to ball valve type or simpler option is some people drill a second hole in oil tank for a second duck bill vent, 2 vents better than 1 theory and it dirt cheap . The older models of these saws (pre 2 mix engine design, 2 bar nuts, threaded fuel/oil caps & rubber handle mounts) can be great long life low cost saws with few tweaks and quality parts for maintenance .

[@jeffgrier8488]

Thanks for the tip Harvey, i'm definitely going to keep that in mind!

[@mattbranson9489]

I been drilling my bars since I was a kid all the older fallers did it so I followed their lead and never looked back

[@waynegriswold8953]

i have been thinkig about doing exactly that for the past couple of months but i guess i needed the confirmation. i cut a lot of dead wood and that stuff sucks up all the oil.