DIY Custom Fuel Rail Build | Datsun L28 Engine

[@anydaynow01]

I noticed you have metric on the other side of your tape measure. I've started using metric for my builds (house and car) since it's so much easier to remember the measurements and do any math required, after a couple projects it will be second nature. Awesome video!

[@brandon-prodigal]

every time you post a video it makes me start looking for another 280

[@darnellbaird206]

Crazy question. Since making your fuel rail, have you ever encountered galvanic corrosion between your fittings and the aluminium fuel rail blank material?

[@cullenmichael34]

Yes!! This is what we've been waiting for! Thank you for the great video!!

[@bernardwarr4187]

Wow great project Pop

[@yaboimyles2825]

You should have also showed how the fuel injected with mount up to that

[@TheFoxygrandpa69]

Good job buddy. Keep it up. You could get into a custom fab shop forsure

[@jacobcotriss6264]

Love the consistent uploads again!❤️❤️

[@jordankohlhepp7202]

Great video but interesting you didn’t use the vice in the background haha

[@tokuzumi1]

He mentions 5/8" barbs for all ports, but you should really use 5/16, as that is factory fuel hose size.

[@jrich436]

Whenever you measure for increment like this you stretch your scale (tape measure) across your part and measure as a whole You never measure from part to part to part because ever fractional error you make is compounded across your work If this were a precision part where everything had to line up that last port would have been off Lubrication is put on the top of the part at the surface the tap is intersecting it at. Putting lubrication in the hole after the tap is removed does no lubricate the tap. A good tap will remove chips as you reverse it through the relief cut grooves and does not need to be taken all the way out. You can put the oil there and allow it to run into the work You shouldn’t use gasket maker, you use a fuel resistant o-ring especially because of the next issue this has This should have been done with aluminum barbs as brass reacts with aluminum causing galvanic corrosion Meaning over time the brass molecules are removing the aluminum. This is sped up by fuel and engine heat. You have a pressurized fluid that’s only being stopped by a chemical between the threads that was not designed to do this If you use an o ring you have a seal on the face being kept in place by the face on the barb being screwed down This was good in principle, just lacks all the things engineers know. But it was great to watch Hopefully you’ve kept at it and learned a lot

[@goodtastespirit]

Hello, I'm about to make one of these for my early RB20DET. How did you go about using this rail? How did you secure it to the head/manifold? I'm trying to figure out how to secure it. Let me know, thanks!

[@jrich436]

Drill and thread the side face material below the port and make L brackets for the oem mounting points

[@porterwilson4665]

yo man sounds like you have some knock somewhere, have you adjusted your valve lash recently?

[@dufusking]

Did you use brass or copper on those fittings? Aluminum and brass/copper are incompatible and will cause the aluminum to breakdown over time. I would hate for you to get some aluminum through your fuel system.

[@jrich436]

Fuel naturally breaks down aluminum. E85 more so Fuel filters help with this but no major damage with modern fuel with detergents will happen The bigger issue is that the clearance between the two metals is increasing constantly and there is only gasket maker between them in a pressurized system This is why the car god have us o rings

[@donsreptiles4602]

What about the cold start valve and vacuum lines?

[@dexter280zxturbo]

On the s130 chassis there on the intake manifold. The cold start valve is literally just a extra injector. Vacuum lines really depend on what you want hooked up. I’m debating on how I want to run my intake on my zxt and had a lot of questions about it so I joined the z groups on Facebook.

[@Manuqtix.Manuqtix]

How do you make custom side feed fuel rail?

[@jrich436]

You make a top feed and swap injectors

[@darrenpipe]

This engine is the l28e? The p79 head and f54 block?

[@dexter280zxturbo]

If I’m not mistaken he bought a 82/83 turbo parts car

[@tokuzumi1]

What did you use for the liquid gasket maker?

[@lacygamsky6251]

Don’t use gasket maker, use thread sealer. Even Teflon tape would be better. The permatex thread sealant is solvent resistant. Most products like he used in the video are to help gaskets seal, not create them. Plus, threads aren’t gaskets.

[@jrich436]

@@lacygamsky6251 thread sealer is better than gasker maker, but an o ring is better than thread sealer

[@Invzame]

Great video. I was have been planning this project except not on a Z but a Jag v12. Will be making two of them. I have two questions though, what size are the ends of the extrusion? Also,what did you tap it out to?