Mike's Garage: E14 - 1996 Caprice Front Wheel Bearings

Today I repack the front wheel bearings on my 1996 Chevy Caprice.
This was recorded several months ago, I am only just getting to edit and upload.
I hope you enjoy.

[@michaelcordero1111]

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. I just bought a 1995 Roadmaster, with 80k miles on it. Comfortable car, and fun to do burnouts in!

[@gr8livn]

Super helpful I accomplished this no problem with the help of y’all. Wish I could buy you a brew.

[@Bloodcurling]

Nice video, but you technically ruined the friction surfaces by having them contact the grease. Have to use brake cleaner on them before you put the rotors back on.

[@MikesGarageWorks]

I appreciate your feedback, and I agree that one should use cleaner.

[@igotatan1]

I learned that the hard way once... Now I always take care not to get the contact area contaminated with anything.

[@Altermyego-]

After watching a couple of your videos seems to me you do a pretty decent job with your “protocol”. This in turn has caused me to press the subscribe button thanks for your videos---> specifically the LT one videos.

[@MikesGarageWorks]

Thanks! I appreciate it. I have BIG plans for that Caprice in the future. Look forward to twin turbs build.

[@johnzell5639]

You didn't show how you got the inner bearing deal out. I tried popping mine with a screw driver and they are tearing.

[@jimwalker7690]

Take the castle nut off, then take the washer and outer bearing out. Put the castle nut back on , give the rotor a tug making sure the nut grabs the inner bearing. The seal and bearing should pop right out and stay on the spindle. Just make sure you put the castle nut on far enough so you don't strip the threads before popping the inner bearing out.

[@richardjohnson4065]

I have a question I just got a 1996 impala ss and the vehicle came with front and rear rotors the front rotors does not have the built in hub the rear does so if I have a bad wheel stud which it does do I have to replace the hub assembly

[@MikesGarageWorks]

First of all, its cool yours has 4 wheel disk brakes. You should be able to press out the bad stud and replace with a new one. Not sure if you have to remove the axle or not. if you do have to pull the axle, its simple. Open the diff cover, push axle in and remove the c clip. then axel should slide out. reverse process to install. dont forget to add friction modifier to the diff fluid if you have limited slip, (which should be indicated witha metal tag on one of the diff cover bolts). Hope that helps.

[@leonchavez9430]

Can u post part numbers need the bearing and seal numbers Thanks

[@vermili0138]

My man, I've replaced the brake pads also used new brackets for them but I can still hear the friction between them and the rotor. Warped rotor?

[@MikesGarageWorks]

It could be. It is possible the surface of the rotor was gouged from excessive age or pad wear, If the car is pulling to either side, i would recommend taking it back apart and checking the pins on the caliper slid freely. If its just a noise, and it doesn't sound like gravel crunching, you might drive it for a couple hundred miles to give the pads some time to bed in. The bed in process could take longer with excessively worn rotors. you can usually tell by rubbing your finger over the COLD rotor surface If its wavy from inside to outside, the bed in process will take longer and will also shorten the life of the pads. Thanks for watching!

[@richardjohnson4065]

Are do I have it confused and the rear is with out fixed hub and the front is with fix hub assembly

[@MikesGarageWorks]

the rear hub is directly attached to the axle.

[@johnbeer5242]

the dog passed by 😂 like u fuckin shit up again Mike ? 🐕😂😄

[@KSIbucky]

You're missing a peice of hardware that goes on the pin to center the brake pad better

[@MikesGarageWorks]

Thanks, I figured that out as well and has since been fixed correctly.