Installing T-Tracks, for Newbies

[@whatworkedforme]

A T track tutorial in 8 minutes... this is truly efficient.. no waffle..so pleased.. and no music either.. = heaven.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Yeah, I hate when they add music too. Glad I could help!

[@jeffreyflat7986]

I bought this for my friend for his birthday as we just moved into a new house and he finally has room for a workshop. The bench was very easy to set up kzbin.infoUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh They center support is a little difficult to snap in and out of place at first but at least then we know the bench is secure. It was a pleasant surprise when we saw it came with clamps. I apparently missed that in the description. My friend loves the versatility of the bench. Great starter bench for his workshop and easily transportable all over our property. I wish the bench was a little taller but the other features of the bench more than make up for that.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

👍

[@johnwhite1608]

I have never seen a better tutorial on T tracks. Truly great and I am confident in doing my own router table now, bench drill table.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks, that's awesome! Some tips: Cheaper t-tracks: kzbin.info/www/bejne/g6fSZKaBmtd5laM. You can use 5 minute epoxy instead of screws if you want or need to: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pZSro6pumsqAiq8. You could make your own t-tracks if you wanted to: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hqmxhGyroayfptE. And finally, you could make your own router lift: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gnvUgXd3ec5rg68.

[@Devil-Made]

I like how unpretentious and earnest you are. I’ve been working with wood most of my life but only recently begun to make it a serious hobby. Since I’ve never had any formal teacher I have a lot of questions from time to time. Seemingly dumb questions. Not much here was new to me, but I can imagine watching anything you make, sure that I’m bound to benefit from loads of useful info I hadn’t ever asked, couldn’t ask, or was afraid to ask about. Thanks for a great primer on T-tracks! It’s my next project. :)

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks - I appreciate it! And glad I could help.

[@joej.jamison8725]

Two years old & still some of the best info I have heard about T tracks!!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! 😄

[@willianaleman6114]

Thank you for the informative video. It's greatly appreciated. Sharing here a newbie tip I recently learned: for the screw holes, using countersink screws in combination with a countersink wood/metal bit, prevents the head of the screws from getting in the surface of the t-track slot, making the move of the miter gauge go smoothly without the screws interfering. Better, it's to use the new HCS 82 or 90 degrees single-flute countersink. Keep up the good work!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Excellent suggestion. Thanks!

[@PapaJoeWalsh]

Great video! Love the approach - quick but covering everything; no hanging around - love it! I will definitely use this as my instructions for installing my first T track on my portable router table.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Awesome! Glad I could help. 🙂

[@superspecialty5169]

Re: installing T-tracks like the “out of the box” thinking (pun intended) 4 solving problems & improving techniques! That’s why I’m a subscriber.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Awesome! Thanks! 😄

[@perlnut]

Watched this yesterday and I’m glad I did. I cut some T-track this afternoon and your tape trick worked like a charm. Hardly any metal shavings flying around during the cut and the tape captured all the shavings inside the track. Didn’t have time to make the box like you had, plus used a miter saw. No longer worried about cutting T-track and having shavings everywhere. Thanks.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Awesome! Thanks for sharing that - I think it's a pretty cool trick, so I'm glad it helped.

[@markwilliams591]

Great overview video as an introduction to t-track. The review of the different brands advantages/disadvantages, general connection information, and difference between 1/4" and 5/16" all very helpful information. Well done.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! Glad I could help! 🙂

[@KimandGarrettmakeit]

I love the tips on cutting the t-tracks. I got aluminum shavings everywhere when we were cutting ours.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

I know! They go everywhere! I still keep finding them, even after thinking I vacuumed everywhere. That's why I came up with the box and the tape. I figured there had to be a better way. Thanks!

[@goodairin]

Interesting and useful information. I like how you go right to the point and use my watching time with respect. Thank you!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

You're quite welcome! 🙂

[@Peter20164]

Thanks! I made the T track sled with cover and it made vastly reduced the amount of aluminum glitter sprayed around my shop!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

You're welcome! 😄

[@chapbix12158]

I resorted to using a jig saw to cut the track. Clamped the track to the top of the work bench and then cut it. Discovered quickly that it was not easy to keep the blade square to the track. Needed a fence for the saw. Took a piece of scrap 1x and drilled a 1/4" hole in the middle of the block. After putting a 1/4" flange screw through the hole, I mounted it in the track I was cutting. Positioned the block with the long edge perpendicular to the track and aligned it so that the saw could run against it. After tightening the nut on the block, I cut away! Voila! Track cut square at the end!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Hey, whatever works, right! 😄

[@Ted_James]

Very informative video! Brilliant idea about the box over the T-track when cutting. I'm going to make one of those for wood cutting as well as T-track cutting. It seems like a great way to keep dust from flying all over the place. Also, great idea about using carriage bolts (got a ton of them). I'll be checking out more of your videos.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Awesome! Glad I could help. 🙂

[@brianjpark9342]

all discription of detail of t bolt information was great help thanks

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

You're welcome! 😄

[@billirey9459]

I agree with others, great tip using blue tApe to collect aluminum shavings. Really enjoyed this video Dan.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! 😄

[@billyblackie9417]

Tape is a good idea for cutting plastics and other things to gather crumbs and some dust as well as helping preventing chipping on weed good man great idea

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! 🙂

[@billyblackie9417]

Sorry that should have read chipping on wood or tare out especially on plywood leaving splinters and certainly a good idea for for gathering lots of saw dust. I'm going to try that today on my table saw while I'm cutting more cleats for my walls thanks

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

@@billyblackie9417 👍

[@k.b.woodworker3250]

Great tips! Another way to help stabilize the t-track is to glue it in to the slot using epoxy or other glue that works for wood and metal. I think the reason your bottom came out so flat was that you moved the fence on the saw in small increments. I'm about to make an auxiliary split fence and plan to put in the t-track on the face and drill the attaching holes for inserts, etc. and then cut the two halves. That way everything will line up. can't use the collection box but wilt use tape. Thanks, all your videos are helpful.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks, and good tip. 😄

[@mcsinnin6473]

this is going to be the biggest youtube channel for woodworking

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

LOL. Thanks for your optimism. 😄

[@33rbp]

I agree!!!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

@@33rbp 😄

[@tonyharris5015]

Unless you cut a lot of aluminum, you can avoid possible damage to your expensive table saw with an upturned jigsaw in a sheet of plywood. Drill a hole for the blade, mount the jigsaw, turn the board upside down and clamp it down. Instant saw for cutting aluminum the few times you need it. Or as you mentioned... hacksaw in a miter box. Either way, table saw or miter saw are saved from tiny bits.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks. If I was going to do anything, I'd use a hack saw and miter box. But the aluminum shavings won't really hurt a table saw or miter saw. I'm more worried about tracking them into the house. They could, however, hurt a band saw, because they could mess with the wheels. In any case, good thoughts, and thanks for sharing them!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

@Jack Morris True!

[@BronkBuilt]

Great tip on covering the t-track on the sled to keep shavings from going everywhere.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks!

[@JaLLaM86]

You should have more views. What an amazing tutorial.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! I appreciate it! 🙂

[@javismc7099]

Best video for t trscks. Thank yiu so much

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 🙂

[@jimaspinii7579]

Toilet bolts are in the plumbing dept. and are t bolts. Won’t spin and can be found locally. You make good videos!!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks for the info, and thanks for the compliment! 😄

[@rwnelissen]

I stumbled across this looking for something else, I don't have any woodcutting experience or do any woodworking but I enjoyed your video nevertheless, nice and concise presentation. Thank you for making.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! That's a really nice compliment. 😄

[@jessaminutesir]

This is exactly what I needed to see! Thank you! Just subscribed. Looking forward to your other videos.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Awesome, and welcome aboard! 😄

[@andrewdennison5700]

Like your videos. Good pacing and light humor. One small measurement/calculation comment: @5:30, you calculate the screw length as 3/4" -3/8" = 3/8" screw. It is a nice graphic, so it makes easy to see that you have included the height of the T-Track bottom. Since wood screws are measured from the head, you may be slightly off by ~1/8", the extra distance the screw head protrudes above the bottom of the dado. 1/8" is a guess. It is not the thickness of the bottom of the track since the screw sits lower in the countersink. For a #8 screw in a #6 hole it is slightly more than the thickness of the track. Your point is still valid, even a #8 1/2" screw has little holding power. My comment is that while it often said "measure twice, cut once", an even better practice is to avoid relying solely on measurements or calculations whenever possible. This avoid problems from 3/4" plywood not being 3/4". You make this point when sizing the track to a dado by testing the fit on a scrap first.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks for the comment! And what you say makes sense to me. 😄

[@hk93shooter]

im going to use the T tracks for a reloading bench. i have many different presses and devices that i use. a track system that allows me to mount the tool i need and remove it is great. keeping the work space uncluttered.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Just remember that they may not be good for clamping things down tightly, depending on the situation. If your track is flush with the surface, and the piece you're clamping down is sitting on the same t-track as your clamp, then it holds pretty well. But if not, you can pull the track out of the dado. That's why, and I don't remember the terms, but if you have the holes that you can drop clamps into, it's sometimes better.

[@ronnagar]

Excellent presentation on how to make a T-Track. Good video. Thanks

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄

[@fl6703]

your video is perfect! great tips and info on making your own t-track table. Thank you

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄

[@dougprentice1363]

Another well done video Dan. I ilike the aluminum dust containment tips.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks!

[@dogface6040]

Since so many of the bases used with t-tk are composed of two layers of 3/4" ply (often BB), I found that cutting the upper layer shapes out separately, then laying them up with t-tk inserted as part of the layup was a lot simpler than creating dadoes. The only thing you have to add to the process are shim strips under the t-tk so that the t-tk is level with the final surface of the second layer of BB/ply. Goes really fast, quite simple layout.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks, sounds like a great idea!

[@kenbrown542]

Another option for bolts is using toilet bowl bolts. They are cheap and easy to get ahold of. Great idea with the tape trick! Thx

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks for the tip! 😄

[@31acruz]

Great video! To the point and detailed; in the right sequence and well spaced ; good job !

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! Glad I could help! 😄

[@billthomas6296]

Thank you Dan, you are the man. I was just looking to buy some t-track and use for the first time. Excellent video sir.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks, and you're welcome! 😄

[@oqueeutofazendoaqui]

Hi. I mentioned you in my vídeo about my T-Track diy. I hope you dont mind.Thanks for inspiration!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks!

[@harrycaul2494]

Love the T-bolt tips!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Awesome! Glad I could help. 🙂

[@yangk00]

Come across your channel trying to buy T-Tracks on Amazon. Just subscribe. Great video

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! Make sure you check out Powertec's t-tracks. Good quality, and cheaper than Rockler.

[@wayphun72]

Great video, and tips, thanks! When it comes to T-track that is going to see a lot of stress, I use KREG track, just thought I'd share that.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks, and thanks for the info! 😄

[@rmhutchins7]

I like your use of a remote switch; I was thinking of using a remote switch for my planned router table (instead of having to hunt underneath for a switch).

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks. I don't think I'd use a remote for something like a router table. I'd never want to chance it accidentally turning on. I use this switch from Rockler: bit.ly/2iEUoeV and I just noticed it's on sale right now. I love it, and you don't have to "hunt for it". Here's a brief look at mine: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i6G0aHejebGdoZom7s. I actually like it so much, I bought a second one, although I haven't found a use for it yet.😏 But at the time, it was on sale for half off, so I couldn't resist!

[@Unfettered_Braid]

Thank you so much for taking the time to share your vast knowledge of woodworking!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

I don't know about "vast", but you're welcome. :)

[@hueybui]

Great video! Fantastic info and your instructions were thorough and easy to understand. Keep up the great work!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thank you! It's nice to be appreciated. 😄And glad I could help.

[@luiszarazua1265]

Nice work. I wish I could get those T-track here in México.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks. There's lots of brands of t-tracks, so maybe one of them is available to you. Or, you could make your own: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hqmxhGyroayfptE

[@vincentsimmons1794]

Great video, do you have a video on making your router table and fence?

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

No, sorry, I never finished the video.

[@driver21fish]

Ok, thanks. Love your videos because they just seem to be for the every day woodworker, you know nothing fancy. Love your new saw. Way out of my price range, but I’m looking at the Delta 36- 725; if I can convince the wife, you know how that goes.LOL!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks, and yes, I do know. Happy wife, happy life, and all that! 😄

[@glencrandall7051]

Need more T tracks.😀😀

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Always!

[@dtwistrewind7361]

You can put the shaft of the screw into your drill Chuck and grind the head to size on the 8 mill screws they fit lovely after that.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Great idea! Thanks.

[@tabhorian]

Great tip about the cover to corral the aluminum chips. I do all I can to avoid cutting aluminum but this might take the pain out of it.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! And actually, for t-tracks, the tape collects more of the chips than anything else.

[@GeorgeMinton-jb8ky]

If you use a backer board why not use thread inserts in the backer board and use flat head machine screws to go through the T track. The hold would be stronger. I am not sure they would make an insert that small but I used thread inserts on 1/2" plywood workbench top and connected them to the sides of the workbench storage area under my workbench top. Seems like this might work here if you need extra holding power. I used 1/4 inch 20 thread inserts. I don't actually know if they make a smaller insert but the idea is good anyway.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! Good ideas. 😄

[@DevinKell]

You know what Dan. I like your video. LIKED.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! 😄

[@happyrecluse2849]

Came here to check out T-racks, well done . Question did you fab the wooden threaded clamping knobs you're self? They would make a cool project for myself. Gotta be cheaper cost then the phenolic ones. I assume you are not a Noob any longer. (5yrs)...Haha.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Yes - here's a video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eprCqXuPnKh4bpo

[@earlliotti5316]

Awesome vid and info! Thank you! Extra points for humor :)

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 🙂

[@ZacJones]

Great video! I'm a newbie and this helped a lot, currently building a miter saw station with a router table built in and Ill need this for sure!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Awesome! Glad I could help. And it sounds like you're having fun. 😄

[@ibidesign]

This was perfect. You've got my subscription!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! Welcome aboard! 😄

[@reaper060670]

I bought some T slot mitre tracks Colin but they were smaller than I was expecting. I didn't realise there were differing sizes to these things. I got caught out by this so I was wondering if u could do a video explaining what the different sizes are and how sizes of aluminium sliders go with them bcos when I buy them on Amazon I always struggle to see what goes with what?? Thanks for another great video pal..

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

If you stick with the standard tracks, like from Rockler or Powertec, you should be fine.

[@mrkrause3]

Great job on your video….. thanks for sharing!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄

[@jimbob78ify]

Thanks Dan. Great video

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄

[@jamesbramblett8093]

Don't forget toilet anchor bolts. They work well with most T-tracks. Just don't steal them from your commode!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

There's a joke in there somewhere, but I won't resort to toilet humor. 😂Thanks - wish I had known about them *before* I made the video! 😄

[@garrettmccleary]

Very helpful video.. thanks!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Awesome! Glad I could help.

[@nauci]

Woah perfect timing I was just going to use these

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Cool - glad I could help!

[@simm50]

Hi Dan another fantastic video I just wondering in your other videos showing your router table top is this made by you and if so will there be plans for it many thanks Keep up the brilliant useful videos all the best David.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks, David. Yes, I built the router table, but I haven't been planning on doing a video, because honestly, I had no clue what I was doing. But I realized a few days ago that it was still working, and still quite solid, so now I'm thinking about just explaining what I did and what I might do differently. We'll see. If you know SketchUp, I have a model of the table: 3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/by/TheNewbieWoodworker.

[@gypsycruiser]

Very well presented.. next level !

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! 😄

[@kennethlemke9826]

Euro hinge screws are all threads wide screw pattern for extra holding in any type of wood. They should seat flush.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks.

[@monteglover4133]

1) For holding down the t-track try using machine screws with threaded inserts or nuts & washers on the under side 2) Toilet bolts is what I normally use

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks. Someone else mentioned machine screws and inserts. I have no idea why that thought never occurred to me before. Anyway, thanks for the comment!

[@garbern1]

Toilet bowl flange bolts work perfectly, a cheap alternative to set up bars is key stock.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks for the comment!

[@raulapa]

Excellent job! One question: What kind of drill bit did you use on the T-track? I've used my wood drill bits and they are not strong enough to perforate aluminum.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Aluminum is pretty soft. But any kind of "typical" metal/wood drill bit should work.

[@kryptik0]

Slightly off topic, but I am very impressed with the ability to wirelessly turn off the table saw. Is this a feature available only on Sawstop? Can any table saw be configured to work like this?

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

It's not the table saw, it's my dust collector. I'm using a remote similar to this one: thd.co/2DatBOL

[@kryptik0]

Ahh, thanks for clarifying that.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

@@kryptik0 👍

[@ragcell]

I dislike having to use (and stress) my router, in my router table. I prefer to use a table saw with flat-bottom blades: faster and better and safer and easier to set up and single pass. Most saw blades have alternating offset (non-flat) teeth that still leaves a little "bump" in the T-track groove. I have / love the ones Infinity Tools has. They have various thicknesses are single blades (5/32" ¼" and 3/8" grooves) and can be stacked. They are a heck of alot easier / better a dado stack, which are a pain in the a$$ to setup and use. The Infinity ¼" blade (and / or in conjunction with the ¼" blade) is most commonly used in my workshop. I also find Infinity stuff on par with Woodpecker's stuff. An alternative bolt option I use if purchase square head bolts: they work the best. And they are a lot easier to "get started" into the T-track.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks for your thoughts. For the cost of an Infinity blade, you can buy a Harbor Freight router to use in a router table. Just a thought.

[@johnathankeller1948]

This is great! Are you a teacher by career?

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! Not by career, no, but I've done lots of ad-hoc teaching throughout my life.

[@WarPigstheHun]

I've an idea to prevent track upheaval: drill through to the the end, insert a machine screw and use a nyloc nut on the other end to hold it in place. Planning to do this and make it flush. This probably won't help the bottom t track since I can't puncture into the top

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

That would work. But honestly, it's usually not a problem with just using short screws, or cutting off the ends when they stick through the other side.

[@WarPigstheHun]

@@TheNewbieWoodworker yeah. Short screws suck. I have yet to cut off the other end, it's hard to stay motivated in the Florida heat

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

@@WarPigstheHun I hear you.

[@Bilal-f5f7w]

Well done looks good

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! 🙂

[@jprevard]

Came here for the Amazon link, and subscribed...

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Awesome! Thanks! 😄

[@masterevill]

Thanks for the video. Excellently done!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! 😄

[@seriouscat5242]

I love your video! Just subscribed 🙂

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks, and welcome aboard! 👍

[@brianoneill6188]

Love your KZbin videos. Any suggestions for getting carriage bolts in bulk, like those in your video?

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! A while back I bought some carriage bolts (and other types of bolts) in bulk from wholesalebolts.com. The shipping cost was horrendous, but if I bought enough of them (a variety of sizes) then they were much cheaper than at Home Depot, even with the shipping cost. The problem is, I still have most of the ones I ordered, so I don't think I saved anything in the long run. Good luck. 😄

[@timhalcomb4041]

Enjoy the video have a blessed day

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks, Tim! I appreciate it! 😄

[@rafaelmijares9197]

Hi Dan. Did the drill press table video ever came up? I can't find it. Or plans? Surely there are a lot of people interested, like I am. And thanks, once more.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

I never finished the video. But here's as much as I finished, which is everything except the fence (if I remember correctly): kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4rNZXawjcqbqZY

[@rafaelmijares9197]

@@TheNewbieWoodworker hi Dan! This has to be the fastest answer ever in KZbin. Thank you so much. The incomplete drill press table video is worth every minute!!!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

@@rafaelmijares9197 LOL. I just happened to see your question while I was answering other questions. And a while back someone else asked about the video, so I had already uploaded it (but it's unlisted, so you have to have the URL to see the video).

[@Matthewjohnwilson]

Would it be possible to drill your T-Track holes all the way threw the wood and use washers / nuts on the other end. That way its impossible for the T_Track to lift if you apply a lot of up pressure on the T-Track? For example I want to place a reloading press on T-Track and using the lever on the press a lot over the years will cause a lot of up pressure on the T_Track. I am looking for a fix for this before it becomes an issue years down the road. What do you think?

[@Matthewjohnwilson]

I guess what I am thinking about would be Counter Sunk Machine Screws.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

@@Matthewjohnwilson If I was worried about putting that kind of pressure on the t-tracks, I'd use epoxy glue to fix them in place.

[@JP-rr5zg]

thank you for the helpful instruction. would it be a good idea to glue the t-track also? If so what glue do I use?

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

As a matter of fact, I recently put out a video on the subject: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pZSro6pumsqAiq8. 😄

[@blacknorce]

How are back did you mount your router plate ? BTW I love how informative your videos are

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! I think it's about in the middle.

[@williamlucas1613]

Chef John of woodworking

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

That's a compliment, right? 😄

[@bakedbeings]

"For some reason mine came out fine." This guy has lived.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Well, at least I've screwed up time and again. It's the reason my logo is a screaming saw blade. 😊

[@knowledge2100]

Great video, good step by step and tips to avoid

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! 😄

[@choate10]

i am looking into using t tracks on my bench and having my dillon 650 attached. do you think this might have too much contant pull on the tracks? or maybe just having some bolts where the wood screws would be. that way it would hold down the track better?

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

If you have any problems, just use some 5-minute epoxy. That stuff works great with t-tracks.

[@dreadcat7756]

Good video. I like your table saw sled too.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks!

[@floydfrk69]

Thank you very much for video. I am a newbie and I have a track cut in make shift table saw. I had done an edge into table saw before t track and I had done it deeper than needed. I can wood putty below 1/8 of an inch or so and wondered if I should do washers to raise top edge that little bit or just wood putty. I want t track flush with top edge exactly also.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

I'd just use putty, and then press the track down until it's level. Leave the track in and let the putty dry for longer than necessary, just to make sure it dries completely. You might be able remove the track after the putty has dried some, but you don't want to remove it too early or the top of the putty won't stay smooth. Add screws once you're sure the putty has fully dried, and you should be good to go. If you make a mistake, let the putty fully dry, then just cut out another slot right into the putty. Good luck! This is the sort of thing you'll find yourself doing all the time in woodworking, because we all make plenty of mistakes. So it's a good learning experience. At least, that's what I tell myself! 😄

[@floydfrk69]

@@TheNewbieWoodworker Thank you very much. I will do that and I also on the other side of the blade did a dado with router but pushed the router too hard with the straight edge clamped down with clamps and so trying to keep it flush with the straight edge, I widened that side also. I will fill in the areas too wide and keep the t track straight and once done, I will countersink the screws and attach them to surface. I had put the clamps down but I guess I pushed too much and did not realize I was making it wider by a little bit. We are human though. :) I will use #6 strews and may make them longer than an inch and add a piece of wood underneath. No one will see the wood underneath. LOL.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

@@floydfrk69 Very true - as Steve Ramsey says, "Always put the crappy side against the wall." 😂

[@Steve-dr7rr]

I’m a complete newbie would you know what the measurements would be in metric for the t trac as I’m in U.K. many thanks steve

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Not off the top of my head. But you can use Google to convert units of measure. And if you have a Mac, you can use Spotlight (Cmd+Space) and type in the inches value, like 3/4", and it'll show you the metric value.

[@ThekiBoran]

The dust collection on the Saw stop isn't very good. But other than that it's a great saw. I like the fence, especially when it's waxed.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks for the comment, and interesting! I think the dust collection is pretty good, but that's probably because I'm comparing it to my old Ryobi BTS20R. 😛

[@rmhutchins7]

I enjoyed your video. It was very helpful. Thank you!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks, and you're quite welcome!

[@driver21fish]

Hey Newbie, love your videos. I have a problem with finding straight wood and wondering if you have the same issue. I even bought some Melamine to make some wood jigs and it’s a little warp, but not much. Probably can work with it. It’s just frustrating. I’m in the country and I’m 15 miles from Home Depot or a Lowe’s. They just built a McCoys about 8 miles from me so I guess I can Check them out. Just wandering if this is something woodworkers have to deal with nowadays with the quality of the wood we get.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks for the comment. It's always a struggle to find straight wood. When I go to Home Depot and buy wood, I'll spend a lot of time digging through stock, trying to find the best pieces. A couple of weeks ago, I think I had 10 or 20 boards of red oak out until I found one I liked. As for 2' or 4' square stock like plywood or melamine, it's really hit or miss, mostly miss. Lowes is worse, most of the time, at least the one near me is. So when I can't find something decent at HD, or if I want higher quality wood (like Baltic Birch plywood), I go to a local lumber store. I asked some workers who were building something for a neighbor where they go, and they told me about this lumber store. I didn't even know it was there, because it's not a typical big box store. I was a little intimidated the first time I went in, but they were very nice. I learned that if I need help, don't go when they first open, because they're really busy. :) Good luck!

[@contessa.adella]

Great tips👍

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! Glad I could help! 🙂

[@joeyaklic9002]

Excellent video, great quality and content. Subscribed, looking forward to more!

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Thanks! Glad to have you aboard! 😄

[@JohnHughes2002]

Looking forward to the homemade T-track video.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Cool! Let's hope it doesn't take forever, like the last few videos have. 🙄

[@MadHatter764]

I make my own t tracks using a 1/4 inch straight bit and then a slot cutter bit...pine 1x2s work ok for light duty but for stronger t track, I use red oak flooring ripped to 1.5 inches wide.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Cool. Then you'll like my next video. :)

[@Fretnagin]

What is the minimum thickness you recommend tor the plywood base?

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Probably about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2"

[@tedfritsch3340]

Thanks, from this video, I decided to build a separate router bench from the work bench. Question? Is there a down and dirty measurement of the T tracks from the Router? Or is it more of a personal preference? Another Newbie asking this.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

I assume you're talking about the t-tracks for the fence, right? Because you don't need any other t-tracks on a router table, because you don't clamp anything else down on a router table. So for the t-tracks for the fence, it doesn't make much of a difference. I wouldn't put them too close to the edge, just because the table top might not be stable that way. But otherwise, whatever feels good, and whatever will work with the fence. If you have a choice, make sure the table top extends past the sides of the router table, so you can attach clamps to the top (I know I said you don't need to clamp anything to the router table, but read on). Sometimes I'll be in the middle of using the router when I realize I need a different bit, but I don't want to move the fence to change the bit because I'll never get the fence back in the right spot. So I attach a clamp to each side of the table, right at the front of the fence. Then I can slide the fence away, change the bit, and slide the fence right back against the clamps so it's exactly where it was before. And then I remove the clamps, obviously. So that's why it helps to have the top overhang a little. I hope that helps! 😄

[@tedfritsch3340]

@@TheNewbieWoodworker It sure does bud, thanks so much. Have an awesome weekend.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

@@tedfritsch3340 👍

[@ramraja7796]

Would have nice if you talked in metric measure as well, I was lost with Imperial, think this video is aimed at American and Canadian, but I pick a few idea from this, Thank you.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

I've started to include metric measurements in all my new videos - I know that doesn't help in this video, but at least I listened when other people asked for metric measurements. 😄

[@mattivirta]

heh,just yesteday i made t-track slot to my diy router table at table and one track to fence, and today i see first time how this need made, i made just same, long screws and additional plywood under table because genuine screws has too little and short. i used different t-track outer dimension have 30mm x 12,8mm big string rail.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

Yep, that sounds just about right. 😄

[@bomatdaman]

Would it help to apply Loctite PL-3 (Liquid Nails) to the underside of the T-Track before fastening? It of course becomes a permanent installation at that point but would it help against the upward force in some situations?

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

A better bet is to use 5-minute epoxy: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pZSro6pumsqAiq8. And you don't need a lot of it, either, as I discovered.

[@-aleeke-2526]

Is useing t-track a bad idea for a homemade tablesaw fence? I have a cheap tablesaw butt the fence is crap. Many videos on building fences on youtube and a few of the easiest to build use t-tack.

[@TheNewbieWoodworker]

I honestly don't know. Give it a try and let me know how it works!