Table Saw Mistakes I Made (And How To Avoid Them)

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[@Takumi-San]

Consider a fire extinguisher in a very accessible part of your shop near the dust extractor.

[@crescentworks6855]

Echo this! Just had my first small shop fire from a buried nail catching sawdust and getting stoked by dust extractor airflow. Scary stuff!

[@AndrewStrydomBRP]

And a cyclone too, much cheaper than replacing those fine dust filters.

[@stuartandrews4344]

Consider several fire extingushers of decent size & various types around the shop,as you may not be able to access one due to the fire. And I've just upgraded & added a couple of Water mist extinguishers to my shop, they are special in that they can be used on wood fires, petrol fires, gas fires & electrical fires 😮🤔 Water mist is electrically non-conductive as it's de-ionised water,safe for use on live electrical equipment of up to 1000 Volt (1m safety distance).

[@cuebj]

​@stuartandrews4344 And practice moving to an extinguisher and knowing you know how to us it. Maybe have Jess come in unannounced and say "What's that burning smell?" at random times over a couple of weeks to hone your response

[@paulmatthews8708]

Hey Scott, great episode. This comment is directed at Jess's comment about steel caps. My wife and teenage son were moving a sheet of 6mm mdf 2.4 x 1.2 out of a van. Neither were wearing steel caps. My wife dropped the sheet about 100 cm and the tip of the corner landed on her toe - it hurt a lot and bled everywhere, but it had a really small hole in her toe. No big deal right? Well, it wouldn't stop bleeding and we ended up taking her to casualty, where she was told there was a good chance they would have to amputate her toe because of the internal damage. They ended up saving her toe but only after a very expensive and painful operation involving rebuilding the bones in her toe. Nowadays her favourite shoes are her workboots and she literally wears them all day every day. So, my point is that even little injuries can have big consequences - wear the safety gear people!

[@greglcarpenter]

I've been a subscriber for quite a while and watch every vid. Awesome job and progress with the house. Putting a coating of shellac on the mdf will protect the mdf from moisture and more importantly, it will resist wood glue from sticking to it as you use it for assembling projects. Glue will just dry and peel off.

[@adammarshall6257]

Great idea, never thought about doing that.

[@15iamawsome]

The author does like to from scratch, kzbin.infoUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.

[@16jocko]

When you are pushing through, as you were on the last sheet, lift your left hand applying pressure between the blade and the fence only with your right hand. Pressure on the left will pinch the blade at the end of cut. I have 60 years of experience and a couple of slightly shorter fingers on the left hand to prove it.

[@SCN-ow8uh]

My father had exactly the same. Took off about 1cm of two fingers, way back in the 1950's.

[@firesurfer]

My teacher in wood shop had two fingers just like that. It happened when he was much younger. RIP Mr. Zowie (his real name was unpronounceable)

[@michaeljarcher]

I would of give this comment a thumbs up, but felt it distasteful to do so. 😆

[@FinishCarpentryTV]

Awesome outfeed/storage/assembly table. That is genius bro.😎

[@cernunnoskali]

Having worked on table saws and panel saws for many years, As a apprentice I was taught, by my master ( 40 yrs as a machinist, with all his fingers!) to use the two push stick method. One push stick ( timber) is longer than the other. The short one guides the timber/ sheet against the fence on the left of the blade. The longer one pushes the timber sheet through. This is for cuttting narrow pieces. Wider widths, you just use hand pressure to run timber/sheets against the fence and the long push stick to finish the cut. Your arms should never be able to reach the blade, you postion your body so this can't happen. The long push stick enables this to happen. I've never, in 35 yrs, had timber grab and fling back. There is an optimal position of the stick, on the rip, when you push through. Those push blocks that go over the blade are dangerous, lots of accidents have happened, because your forearm goes over the blade. Using the two push stick method means that your fingers and arms can't physically touch the blade. Also having a blade guard with dust extraction, that comes from above is much safer too.

[@TonyRule]

*_"Those push blocks that go over the blade are dangerous"_* 100%. They're a solution in search of a problem that was was already solved.

[@damjan6420]

As a kitchen cabinet maker in Aus for the last 27 years and watching my dad build the family business for over 40years I 100% agree with you comments above and exactly how I was taught and I teach my new guys. I have all my fingers and so does my Dad. Those push blocks in the video are far more dangerous than proper technique as you described. Also using the overhead blade guard that comes with that saw is far safer and cleaner with the dust extraction and would make the push block unusable. (As it should be)

[@ravenousvisages]

Feed rollers. Complete control via sacrificial robot. Just stand outta the way of kickback.

[@markg4327]

Hey Scott, I see a duct running across your roof beam to the mitre saw in your future. An outside dust extractor shelter so you get the floor space back, also when you clean it out the dust actually stays extracted.

[@stuartandrews4344]

Best thing I did get getting the dust extractor out of my shop & in it's own shelter.

[@mrpete5482]

+1 on the exterior dust extractor. Cleanout dust and several decibels stay outside, more space stays inside. A triple win.

[@ravenousvisages]

Plus you really can’t know that dust particles under micron size being blown through the filter aren’t harming you… best to keep all dust outdoors.

[@cj-ef1rp]

When it comes time to make your cabinets, use a French cleat to hang them. It makes installation a breeze and can make any remodel simple and zero destruction. Also, you can adjust the layout/orientation of your kitchen in the future if you need to do so.

[@brumby92]

I recently finished my diy kitchen. Floor standing are common in Australia and New Zealand. Probably easier for the diy, but I can really see the benefits of the French cleat.

[@cj-ef1rp]

@@brumby92actually, mounting them on a cleat is easier. You can eliminate entirely the issue of out-of-level floors. You can still add a “toe kick” to the base of the bottom cabinet to conceal the fact they are wall mounted.

[@allisonwoods6161]

Great table, you might want to consider making channels in the top so when you use the sliding mitre fence that it has somewhere to travel in the bench top.

[@philvale5724]

Hi 👋, Scott , I just been reading back through other comments, about fire, extinguisher, the thing I recommend is earthing the dust extraction itself, as it can cause, static electricity, and cause a fire inside pipes, there is devices you can buy that will detect Sparks switch off the system and close vent, but I believe these cost a lot of money, I used to have something similar many years ago, Something else you need to think about, is that some finishing products can spontaneous combust , and when used with rags and paper towels, even when screwed up and laying on the floor, if left over a period of time, they will more than likely ignite, advise metal dustbin with metal lid, even to the point of putting the rags in water before disposing of them, there was a KZbin from the US a few months ago. Somebody had virtually lost his workshop over the weekend., he had just thrown rags on the floor and into a plastic bin, and over the course of a few hours they caught on fire and then caught a shop on fire, another guy done a territorial on KZbin called bourbonmoth is territorial was set up as experiment, showing what happened with certain materials when left in rags and paper towels he might find it interesting, Be safe, be happy , nearly 50 years, specialist joiner, cabinet maker, don’t time fly when you’re having fun, 😂 Phil from the moulin France,

[@r-mac1240]

Consider applying a coat of paste wax to the MDF top to lessen the friction when sliding pieces around. Makes clean up easier also. Nice build

[@martinfox9560]

Lovely out feed table. Another safety tip I swear by is always have the bigger piece of the cut against the fence. The smaller the piece, the more likely the jam and be introduced roughly back at you.

[@stevemakin8138]

Hey Scott! British cabinet maker living in Auckland here 🤙 You may or may not of thought of this but I would definitely recommend getting the veneer blade for the ply and a specific blade for the meltica/ laminate board.

[@acidfuzzpedals9986]

Building your outfeed table to nest over your material was a brilliant space saving idea! I'm going to steal that design when I get around to building my own table. May put some high quality retractable casters on the legs so I can move it easier by myself? Alternately, I suppose I could just use my hydraulic jack to lift it on to a set of leg dollies when I need to move it around. Nice work! Things are really coming together!!

[@cuebj]

Theatrical chandler's are good sources for heavy duty castors of all kinds. The moment a friend mentioned it to me it made sense

[@terrytopliss9506]

Hi Scott, to save your outfeed top have some sacrificial plank and then all you replace are the sacrificial planks. By the way please don’t wear loose sleeved top when you’re at the tablesaw. Your workshops taking shape and I like what you’ve done with storing the sheet timber under the outfeed table. Thanks for the latest exciting episode.👍👍

[@daylen577]

He literally mentioned he went with MDF specifically to be sacrificial without potentially scratching whatever he's cutting. MDF is so cheap compared to normal lumber that it would make no sense to use something else

[@Ukjon72]

Nice build. I would wax or put shellac on the mdf, protects it and glue will pop right off. Also, since everything else is mobile put removable wheels on the outfield, then you can wheel it out the way if you need to get at your stack of plywood.

[@MrKnotWright]

Jon, yes, Scott definitely needs to seal the MDF first, and then wax it. and be careful using it as an assembly table, nothing worse than hitting a spot of dried glue when you are ripping a sheet of plywood

[@romlyn99]

Great outfeed table. It won't hurt your design and functionality to layout and drill dog holes on the back part of the bench, which will help with assembly. Carbatec sell UJK Technology Parf Guide System Mk2. This jig gives you perfect dog hole layouts.

[@tubestick00]

Scott !!! Moving my extraction unit outside was the best thing I ever did. The noise. The fine particulate matter. Opening it up inside and releasing it into the air. The space it takes up inside. Its all better when the unit is in a little covered lean to outside the shed. Your ducting just needs to go through the wall.

[@needaman66]

Gday mate, been a carpenter for 40 years. I made my assembly/router table from an old kitchen table. Top is 30mm thick. Made longer legs put casters on it ( i think you should have put wheels on yours) the kind that flip a lever and on solid ground, put my router lift in. Router fence pops off for assembly table they're called retractable casters.

[@Major-Dan]

Great job. If you plan to use the outfeed as an assembly table, I strongly recommend covering it with a sheet of Formica (or whatever the equivalent is in NZ). Not expensive, applied with contact cement it will make glue ups much easier as glue won't stick to the Formica surface.

[@ScottBrownCarpentry]

I was thinking the same thing. My table idea was partially inspired by Bourbon Moth’s, the general structure, the adjustable feet and hopefully the Formica. I’ll keep looking for some locally, cheers!

[@Major-Dan]

In my workshop, I kind of have a "when in doubt, slap Formica on it" approach. I have exactly the same saw and I love it.

[@mtnbikeman85]

@@ScottBrownCarpentry If you figure out where to buy rolls of formica easily in NZ let us know. Literally also watching Bourbon Moth and want to do the same thing to my table but no idea where to buy it.

[@firesurfer]

@@mtnbikeman85 Do a generic search for ''High Pressure Laminate'' in New Zealand. Contour Surfaces 24 Sir William Ave, East Tamaki, Auckland

[@mgn151]

I'd add a second layer of MDF and then Formica. The double-layer of MDF makes a very strong solid surface. To put the Formica down, I'd suggest cementing it to the second MDF panel, and then screwing that panel down to the first. That will let you swap out the top layer for a new sheet when needed, especially if you cut it up like you discussed in the video.

[@Rulerofwax24]

At 10:10 talking about the work table, you saying let's stop talking and just do it reminded me so strongly of Beau Miles, an Australian filmmaker/youtuber. I would highly recommend his channel if you haven't seen it before.

[@ScottBrownCarpentry]

Ha! I just found him this week, I only watched one video that he dedicated to his wife but I was super impressed with the style of video.

[@Rulerofwax24]

@@ScottBrownCarpentry He has some really interesting philosophies on both life and building. I suggest checking out the 24 hour marathon videos for building. I personally loved the canoeing/running to work videos.

[@ravenousvisages]

Good use of outfeed storage. You need a small pallet jack! A pallet jack can help you move the bulk of your sheets and stores easily under another pallet. Strongly advise to convert outfeed table into a peg hole downdraft table so you can assemble and sand face frames, if you are considering future cabinetmaking. Transom fans will fit the upper box, and with common house filters can provide negative pressure, while your tools connect direct to dust extraction. Could the dust collector fit in the rafter space? We had ours outside the factory to cut down on noise/dust exposure- and elevated to dump straight into bins. Too bad it's all hazardous nowadays- raw wood dust would make good compost filler. Also consider a zipwall to divide woodwork space and paint/finish.

[@CharlesKiblinger]

I have made up several of the "shoe" type push-sticks whenever I have had a likely looking piece of plywood scrap, and hung them all over the place on various walls, hooks, shelves etc near the saw, with the intention being that no matter what I'm doing or where I stupidly put down the last one, there is another within arm's reach so I have no excuse not to use one. Looking forward to seeing the interior finish work!

[@mwffoto7698]

That is a thing of beauty and so clever to hide the stack underneath. Bravo sir!

[@tommycanuck8184]

Great outfeed/assembly table. I agree that you should either top it with a sheet of Formica or seal it. I would use shellac as a first coat as shellac, being alcohol based, won’t swell the mdf like water based finishes will. Other suggestions: 1) extend the mitre grooves into the table for the mitre gauge and your future jigs and sleds. 2) When edge banding the table, put a wide, thick piece of timber on which you will be able to clamp to. 3) Consider putting a vise on it. 4) Mark the exact location of the legs and table saw on the floor with paint so if you ever have to move them you can put them back in the same spot without having to re-level them. 5) Put a series of dog holes in the top for clamping and hold down purposes.

[@scottieB17]

As usual, well thought out and makes me say: "why didn't I think of that?" My favorite day of the week is the day another Scott Brown Carpentry video gets uploaded. Thanks for all the great content. Keep it coming.

[@mrpete5482]

I really liked the "Nelsons", the corner protectors on the stack of sheets. It's typical of your attention to detail to prevent the corners of the stored sheets getting bashed.

[@rinoadair1683]

For easy handling of large panels, bolt arms on sides of your doghole table. These arms with single pivot bolt hang down, with a J at bottom of arm to rest bottom edge of panel. You only need to lift panel onto the J on arms, then swing panel from bottom up onto doghole table. So no heavy manhandling large panels, no moving of table, no scratches to panels. Once on dogbolt table, roll it over to tablesaw. Having manhandled panels to make 3 kitchen before discovering this, which I knew earlier. PS I recommend Trition 2000 workcentre with sliding extension table for panels is fantastic for those looking for a cheap way to do kitchen panels, for those with limited budget. The Triton 2000 workcentre can be found for around $200 on TMe or Marketplace, the slide extension table didn't come up often but around $1-200 extra.

[@recommit]

I logged onto Amazon while watching this episode & ordered a push block. Been using the stick for years & gating it, almost expecting a nasty occurrence. That adjustable block looks like a saviour.

[@ejgrae1989]

Refreshing watching a master carpenter learn new things and consolidate it by teaching it (to us). It explains how you are where you are.

[@Steve-Debs]

I’ve just Reno,ed my living room, 2 finishing coats on all the walls, then before I put the arch and skirtings on I gave them one undercoat and one top coat. I then nailed them on, filled the nail holes, gave the faces a 400 sand and a final face top coat. Worked for me.

[@AndrewStrydomBRP]

I suggest picking up/making a cyclone separator for your dust extractor, those filters are expensive and having one can significantly extend the life of them.

[@craigbrittain6039]

Where is the blade guard/ dust collector for the saw? It could save you your finger tips. The guard usually comes with the saw and if you aren't using it but have it , you are playing with fire. Otherwise, the outfeed table looks great and you designed it perfectly for your needs. NIce going.

[@boosbeest1146]

Net month I'm starting a 3 year woodworking course next to my small 1person business that I'm also trying to grow. But I can't put it off no longer since I have been dreaming about it since childhood (I choose the " sensible" path of going into an office education/job). Building a shop in my garage is one of the things I have started working on and I am glad to see you are in this phase in the channel as well. So I will be using some of your ideas starting with this outfeed table. Good luck with everything and can't wait for this next journey. See you in the next episode. 🙂ps if anyone has some tips on an online Sketchup courses, pls let me know. Thanks.

[@michaelcarton278]

Hey Scott couple of tips on your table saw. As a professional cabinet maker in the uk we have to use crown guards, do you not? Out of all the safety the guard does many things. Also the glide spray becareful as it can cause fish eyes on the paint finish on your plywood doors or any other veneers and never use gloves on a table saw . On a plus , haven't seen a push stick like that of Gaston's brilliant 👍

[@es4forty892]

If you combine the saw with the top of the cabinet you'll save space while retaining plenty of room to push the ply through. Doug Bernard (car audio installer in California) built a moveable cart for his table saw that incorporates a router loft and a waste bin. You do add the dust extractor to the bottom without sacrificing height and have the whole thing be moveable anywhere in the garage or outside the garage.

[@BlackPete...]

Awesome, Scott. Love how you made that pile of ply "disappear". I store my sheet materials on trolleys with castors, so I can always have the sheet material in the perfect place - out of the damn way. Another great watch. Cheers.

[@wildpat03]

Table saws are so great, happy Laguna gifted that one to you! That outfeed table + storage is a superb idea. Couple of things though: safety, safety, safety. Use the blade guard as much as possible. Wear ear/eye/lung protection. Despite the dust extractor, dust is coming of the blade when running. Make your own push blocks when you have some spare plywood scraps. No cords or loose sleeves/garments, they can pull you into the blade faster and stronger than you think possible. Look into making an infeed pad or legs as you will go through sheet goods; some support before the blade is really convenient and safer. Get a good quality combination blade and a good fine finish (60-80 teeth) blade, that pair will cover 95% of the cuts. Have fun!

[@TheMatadrum]

There's something immensely satisfying in seeing a really nice functional work bench/table getting built. Love ya work Scott!

[@JimmyKip]

I know a lot of folks favour the gripper for the push stick stuff - but I follow the Matthias Wandel & just use two longer push sticks so both hands are out of the way.

[@frostfang83]

Sensational idea with storing the sheet goods under the out-feed table!!

[@Burke_Woodworks]

If you don't want to cut into your workbench top you can cut your material on top of a sheet of foamboard insulation on the workbench. I do this with my track saw, I just keep the foam board underneath the bench when not in use so that it is close by

[@lachlana7257]

Great setup. You might find the outfeed table a bit too high for an assembly table. From my brief experience cabinet making, we had an assembly table that was just above knee height. That way when you nail and screw carcasses together, it is at a better height. In your case it would avoid getting too close to the rafters.

[@philvale5724]

Hi 👋, Scott, Great job , Table extension, Excellent idea, so you can put your sheet material under it, Phil from the moulin France,

[@curranarnett6099]

The point of the push stick is your hands are away from the blade. If you feed over the blade with the gripper and get kickback, loose your footing or whatever your hand and arm is likely to fall into the blade. By using the gripper you are forced to stand on the side between the blade and fence. Thats where the material flys out if you get kick back. The push stick alows you to stand on the safer side and if the material flys out it will hit cat behind instead of you. If you want more control use two push sticks. You can buy better quality push sticks but the best is a homemade version in wood. Keep away from the blade and keep your fingers please.

[@antcj]

I agree with that, 2 push sticks are all Ive ever used. But make them of mdf. if they do come in contact with the blade they wont shatter as will happen with pine or similar. Mine are typically 20 x 30 x approx 350mm with rounded edges and end. I also cut a slot in the tip to grip the material. And you can stand safely to once side, hands no where near or over that blade

[@robertrusso877]

I agree. While the gripper seems like a good idea, you just never want your hands over the blade. Scott, if you intend on keeping the gripper then I suggest selling the Laguna and get a Saw Stop.😅

[@theofarmmanager267]

I’ve been woodworking for 45 plus years and been using a table saw for, maybe, 30? For me, the reality, the practical reality is that there are times when the gripper is the better tool and the push stick the better tool. If you have an overhead dust port over the blade, then the gripper gets in the way. I either raise the dust port shroud or push a push stick. Push sticks have, in my experience, a greater chance of slipping than a gripper. I have never slipped off the price of wood I’m cutting with a gripper but it’s happened several times with push sticks. Woodworking is an inherently unsafe job; if you want 100% guaranteed safety, then do something else. From lifting, carrying, cutting, routing, every task has risks. As a retired MD who had ultimate responsibility for safety in high risk tasks (abseiling, MEPS etc.) I am well acquainted with the working of the Health and Safety Executive. In a nutshell, they understand that you can’t eliminate every risk but you can eliminate some, reduce others and devise working practices to minimise others. We had all the (UK) COSHH, MSDS and SSRA for every task. If you fear kick back, then invest in table guides such as made by Jessem. They are excellent at both keeping the wood against the fence and minimising the chance of kickback. If you are cutting natural timbers, then you know how cutting can release inner tensions; that’s why a proper rip fence has an attachment which stops at the blade and that allows any release not to result in kickback.

[@onsapplikasies8620]

Thank you Surfshark for sponsoring this exciting episode.

[@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs]

Well done Scott! 💯👍 So proud of you....and Jess, congrats on helping to life the plywood....not easy! From Eastern Canada, Prince Edward Island 💝🇨🇦👷‍♀🪜🔨

[@Karaon]

another pro tip for you: I always keep spray bottle with soapy water in my workshop. It's great if you just want to wipe the dust off of something or whatever else you need. I keep one labeled and one with pure water as well. So many uses. I do use my workshop in many ways, not just woodworking but hey, it's one less trip to the house if you don't have a tap around

[@charleselkins4546]

I love your craftsmanship but I also like the incredibly blue skies and beautiful late winter NZ scenery. It makes me hopeful that the interminable heat of where I live might someday end.

[@M.A.S.Ked-Crusader]

This garage is becoming a really nice workshop, brilliant new additions ! When you make a sled make sure you make a jig for making wedges, it’s quick and simple and it’s always nice to have a box of uniform wedges on hand for many projects 👍

[@kentchamberlain4952]

Even your procrastination puts most people to shame. Mate, keep chipping away the results are now really beginning to show in your beauty of a modest liveable house. And thanks for bringing us along for the journey.

[@borisreid3053]

My friend's father is a cabinetry carpenter. His pace of work uses parallelogram table saw. Essentially, it's a large table saw along which a work table is moving. This work table has a number of rulers, parallel and perpendicular to the saw blade. It is expensive, but it allows you to build your own geometry of the parts, especially in cases where you can't trust the sheet's manufacturer's edge.

[@deedonkee]

Hey Scott. I really enjoy your content. I just thought I could offer some advice when it comes to building your kitchen units. You should batch cut all the carcass sides...they are all the same. As are the shelves. And the tops(rails)and bottoms are the same width as the shelves. I'm sure you've already planned for the tedium of all the cuts and set up. Good luck

[@dazkelly5089]

Great work, Scott. Put the hood guard on though. It is a legal requirement in NZ, it's supposed to be set no more than 12mm above the work piece. It's easy to get in the habit of not using it, but it will bite you one day.

[@ZachAshcraft]

I was wondering how you were going to handle all that Plywood storage. That's such a handy solution! Will make for some great tool storage once you're done with the kitchen!

[@allanbramming9168]

Hi Scott, I don’t understand why tablesaws on KZbin never have a blade guard mounted? I’ve been working as a trained carpenter in the furniture Industri in Denmark for more than 30 years, here there is a rule "never leave a table saw without the blade guard”! If you grab after a piece of timber, a good blade guard will prevent you from sticking your fingers in the blade - I have tried that (PAIN! still have all my fingers) If you twist a piece of timber into the blade the guard will prevent it from leaving the table vertically and hit your head. A good blade guard will also prevent the wood chips from reaching your eyes, and at the same time give you the possibility of dust extraction on top of the blade.

[@jasonfreestone9944]

Great work Scott, but have a close look at 16:46 fingers and hand need to be out of 75mm 3 dimensional radius, skew nails periodically happen with nail guns, hidden knots, nails, slight wrong angle etc.

[@RickRolling-tc7vb]

Thanks Scott, this is very entertaining! It's fun to watch you learn stuff, because you don't seem too precious about it and are willing to take advice and constructive criticism. We'll become experts together.

[@shaunjnmkbrennan7539]

Excellent episode. Great idea with the outfeed table over the ply. I'm going to use that idea for my work bench in my garage that I'm currently revamping! Thanks!!!!!

[@theyard6958]

Great addition to the saw. Just to bring it to your attention . I have been a sawyer for decades, and my one additional addition would be a 1inch or equivalent thick piece of Plywood at least 2ft x2ft mounted to your garage door. meant to serve as a backstop of sort . something to protect your door from being penetrated by a kickback. they happen and the move like a rocket. I have sent things and seen other send shit through walls into the shop next door and such. We have had one in just about every shop I have worked in to protect other workers. Thanks for the entertainment Scott. I know, Im silly American not using the metric system, LOL, But I do enjoy and appreciate the content! Cheers, from Washington State.

[@Yes..........]

Scott I like the ingenuity, but attach bit of enforcement to the mdf lip that overhanging. For clamps to grab on to. You'll see. It's my biggest regret of my own first outfeed/worktable.

[@ryan76936]

Hello Scott I do all my wook working out side and some times I have ice on my work bench like how there is ice on your deck. Great video Very cool work bench/ out feed table design

[@mnicastro3365]

Great tips. To keep from cutting into your outfeed table top if you're going to use your track saw on it as well, use a piece of 1" rigid foam. I break down all my sheet goods with a track saw as my jobsite table saw is too small and I use rigid foam on my work bench to prevent from cutting into it. Having the rigid foam backer also keeps the other side of the sheet goods with a cleaner cut too.

[@RogierYou]

The light at the end wi5h Jess in her garden was awesome ❤

[@garrickfield]

Hey Scott - thanks for the gratuitous shots of the Richmond Hills man, I grew up looking at these hills every day, I'm a long way away from them now but miss them heaps. A great reminder of home! And cheers for the vid, I'm just about to build an outfeed table for my new table saw too!

[@raym000]

Hi Scott. I really like your videos. But today I stumbled a on a safety issue which I see a lot, mainly in USA/Australia. The so called ‘safe’ gripper cannot be used WITH the sawblade guard. So the safest way to use the table saw is impossible with the gripper. Second, you reach over the blad with your hand. Wich is a no-go in every manual and safety advice of table saws. Therefor you will see the provided push stick with all table saws. The best way to use them is with 2 of them. Then you apply pressure on both the side and back of the wood, without removing the guard. Ask Ray, if, in the Netherlands you get a non announced safety visit from the safety department and they find the guard removed from the machine, work is put on hold and a major fine is issued. And yes I know it happens a lot still. But better safe then sorry, the gripper is far from safe.

[@Dkmasteris]

Someone probably already told you this, but put some clear wax on that outfeed table, not only will it help protect the surface, it will make sure that the pieces you're cutting are travelling smoothly. Wax is great, since you can also use it for metal surfaces, like your table saw, or any metal planes you have. You also have a problem with your table saw mitre tracks as they end up hitting your table, which limits their functionality.

[@bradleyrogerson1638]

Garage is looking like a woodshop now! Great stuff

[@jaydenhinaki4434]

I’ve never seen someone glue + nail + clamp Timbers together for a bench but I’m loving it 🤣 I’m a complete perfectionist and it’s something that I would do

[@kdubyuh]

I love when a plan comes together. Another great episode Scott.

[@vjaneczko]

An absolutely brilliant design! I'm sure others have suggested this, but top the table with Formica or shellac. Can't wait to see the kitchen start coming together!

[@GrahamHounslow]

Also make sure you fit the crown guard, having an uncovered blade is just an accident waiting to happen. Reaching over the blade is dangerous, but if you have the crown guard fitted you're cutting the risk down massively.

[@GrahamHounslow]

Not sure of the rules in New Zealand but in the UK it's a legal requirement for a crown guard and riving knife to be fitted. It's probably a grey area as you are using it for personal use, though once you start using it for paid work you would come under the health and safety at work places - or the NZ equivalent.

[@steveggca]

@@GrahamHounslow I was going to recommend the crown guard as well, not just for finger safety but for dust collection, there is a lot of dust off of the top of the blade, thrown into the air. second because the fence is has high/low faces, switching to the low position for sheet goods or thin materal adds to hand safety.

[@drleewhite]

The Workshop Companion has a great video on cutting and handling full sized sheet materials in a home shop.

[@vicgeorge881]

Always such a pleasure watching your videos. Very happy to see you're turning your garage into organized workshop, and can't wait for some nice furniture videos to be filmed soon.

[@xkILAkOKONUTx]

“Let’s just do it, let’s stop talking about it, let’s just do it” 😂 I feel the same way knowing that I procrastinate a lot.

[@Dubious.Bovine]

love it. just imagine the storage potential when you are done with the ply!

[@johnfitzpatrick2469]

G,day Scott Brown Carpentry and Jess from Sydney Australia. That is a great use of floor space if you have a pack of sheets. Would a feed in roller stand assist (Triton, Tuff built etc). Garden gossip Healthy soil is extremely important and is the key to success, when it comes to fruit and vegetables. Lifting a spad full and checking an even number of worms three times a year is prudent. If not, this could be serious. One needs to investigate your soil ecology, pH and organic composition. A keen gardener is keeping ahead all the time, with compost. seeweed, different manure; * horse, cow, chicken * worm farming Use the mower to run over the light brush, branches and leaves. 🇭🇲🐝

[@christianvachon2235]

Hi Scott! That is a fantastic outfeed table setup! Since a tablesaw outfeed is the next item in my list for the next tasks, this is great inspiration at a perfect timing. Thanks so much! Cheers!

[@f.becker220]

Very nice setup! Looking forward to see how you build your kitchen!

[@bricktop7803]

The MDF is your sacrificial layer. Once it gets written on, hammered, glued, and cut to shreds. You just replace it with another piece, That is what I have in my outfeed table.

[@woody1320]

Great idea about the sheet good storage with limited space. One suggestion is to make some very simple in-feed supports for large sheet goods. Jay Bates has a simple solution as do others, easy to install/remove and much safer to push thru large material.

[@sebmstudio1697]

Use some water based or oil based polyurethane to finish you MDF. You'll be able to easily clean up glue on your work surface and it's fast and easy to apply. When you need to change your MDF top, you'll be able to refinish it in no time. Really cool idea to store the plywood underneath! Having just been through a kitchen build for my own house, it was a pain to store the 25+ sheets that I used.

[@didjwentworth5778]

When I’m using a table saw I like to push the timber through using my tongue, with the intention of getting my face as close to the blade as possible. I also recommend paint rollers for mopping up blood.

[@byronpendleton7984]

not sure its been memtioned but tip i just started doing. rather then push a full sheet through the table saw it can shift when you adjust body position. rip cut with track saw to close dimensions first then square up with table saw. makes it much more square and easier to push through. despite the name cabinet saws arnt great on making cabinets on their own lol. also foam boards ontop of outfeed table to do cuts with track saw. saves your work surface being cut

[@michaeljensen32]

Scott love the plywood storage idea! Great for small shop

[@urbanlucky98]

One thing to add to safety. Never have your hand in line with the blade when pushing wood. at @19:11, the hand seems to line up with the blade, you do move it after, but if you would have tripped or smth then bye bye fingers.

[@pedullastudio]

This makes me very happy! Well done man!

[@patricklaughrey8727]

The wood storage under the table is a brilliant idea!

[@seanorbell-hk5cc]

Love your shop setup Scott for the table saw! Think Ill be using your method when comes the time to build my kitchen!

[@Deano.1978]

Gotta love it when a plan comes together

[@jlmfoy365]

I don't know if this is good advice or not but when cutting lengths of ply or MDF just watch the fence, don't worry about the blade it's going nowhere. I think I saw this on the New Yankee Workshop years ago. Regards Jim UK.

[@davinozen]

Can’t wait to see more cabinetry and furniture content from you Scott.

[@michaelford7469]

Traditional push stick works okay if you use two, one pushing down and forward, the other pushing into the fence. Pressure must be applied before the blade though to avoid binding and kickback. I like using feather boards for repeat rips.

[@more.power.]

Great work Scotty & Jess. I am looking forward to the building of your new kitchen. Thank you for sharing your build. Cheers

[@jaredgreen5305]

Would love to see you do a collab build with Bourbon Moth brother..

[@philbowden1961]

Get a big roll of brown paper to cover your outfeed table to protect it when putting cabinets together

[@miromadzarac9795]

Nice job organizing your workspace. Consider getting main switch that would turn both your table saw and extractor on and off together. Not sure how it is called in english, but you probably should have it available in shops

[@Dragonited]

You could also treat the mdf top with boat varnish. First, use 50/50 varnish and white mineral spirit as a base. It will absorb a lot. Then, after that's cured, use 180-grit sand papper or so and wipe off the dust. You use full varnish with a furniture foam roller or a sprayer connected to your air compressor. Finish it off with some fine sand papper, and if needed, put on some paste wax or something that will help it to glide a bit better if it's too grippy.

[@mama_p_nz8233]

Thanks so much Scott, now I know it's called the advanced gripper and where to buy it. Love your videos, can't wait to watch you cabinet making.