Forget about the Superlight 2, do this instead.

[@Solus793]

You can desolder a switch in safely and effectively in under a minute if you follow these steps: 1) make sure soldering iron tip is very clean and shiny, if it is dull at all flux it and clean it up with fresh solder, do not work with dull tips! 2) before desoldering, add extra solder to the joint - adding leaded solder will dilute the alloy of the factory RoHS solder lowering the melting point and increasing the thermal mass for better heat transmission 3) add extra flux for better wetting 4) when you are using a solder pump you need to be FAST, it must be charged and pre-positioned right next to the pin before your iron touches anything - as soon as you can see the solder start to melt and become liquid you must in the blink of an eye, place the nozzle of the pump right over the joint perpendicular to the board (standing straight) take the tip of the iron away and quickly press down forming a seal with the nozzle against the board and press the button - any delay in this process will give the solder time to re-harden and the solder pump will be ineffective Extra notes: - do not ever pull or pry a switch from the board, you will rip the delicate pads off the PCB - you want the switch to slide out gracefully, no force, each switch has two small holes on its side where you can put a pair of needle tweezers to hold it under slight traction - heat up all three pins at the same time in a dragging motion with your iron and pull down gently, it should slide right out under its own weight - do not cook your components or the board, if you are heating things up for more than 5 seconds with your iron you are doing something wrong and risking damage, use 380C as your desoldering temp. It is better to work quickly and effectively using a short burst of high heat than with a longer burst on lower heat that is ineffective and won't melt the solder in time and will just fry the board, traces, switch, everything! Follow these steps and you will get great results even with cheaper tools and you won't risk destroying your mouse. Just make sure you are using flux when you do any soldering work, can't emphasize its importance enough.

[@snowyvr2092]

Bro wrote allat for 5 likes💀

[@Solus793]

Didn't write it for likes, wrote it to help people and stop them from breaking their hardware when modifying it. :)

[@ThePhoenixdive]

Thank you friend, your tips are immensely helpful for someone who just started soldering. I was able to replace my switches with your help

[@JamilaAmbeiroRegoh]

I would also recommend doing the side buttons adhesive mod, really helps to reduce the travel!

[@carlosribeiroo]

I ended up cutting that part from the video, but I did bend the side button plastic a tiny amount to address that pre-travel a slight amount and found that on my particular unit that was enough!

[@alexliang9685]

@@carlosribeiroo hey I was wondering which part you bent? I’m trying to do the dame

[@carlosribeiroo]

The whole idea is to reduce the increase the tension on the switches so you bend it inwards. It’s very slight! Nothing crazy otherwise you can break the plastic. You can also do it too much and make the switch feel stuck só a little is enough here

[@alexliang9685]

@@carlosribeiroo sweet! Thanks 😊 I’m thinking of doing the same mods for my gpx. One last thing, did u address the pre travel of m1 m2?

[@carlosribeiroo]

@@alexliang9685 Same process when it comes to tightening pre-travel as I did with the side buttons but in my mouse it already had very little pre-travel for the main clicks

[@FluXReign]

It’s funny I’m just now seeing this video. I just put the sage switches in my gpx but I went with the ttc encoder also. Nice video!

[@ShadowQrow]

ttc golds are way too loud and way too deafeningly high pitched. I tried them and I couldn't stand them for even 2 days.

[@Tom888CZE]

I swapped original omrons to huano brown silent and yeah they are silent but also way lighter and then you can trigger the button without even wanted.

[@ana303_]

modded my GPX Superlight with some aftermarket grip, Kai black 100M switches ( i was getting double clicking with stock ones ) and Tiger Ice V2 mouse skates. feels way better

[@blinkitogaming]

Hi there, could you throw some light on the kailh encoder size for the wheel? Thnx!

[@Tom888CZE]

On what temperature did you set the soldering pen?

[@carlosribeiroo]

Honestly can’t remember. Just find a nice soldering tutorial on KZbin for small electronics and you should get all the info you need. I am faaaaaaar from a soldering expert

[@themomorain]

So you can just solder some random mechanical switches onto the default board? I thought you can only put optical ones into the superlight 2

[@carlosribeiroo]

This is the superlight 1!

[@themomorain]

@@carlosribeiroo Oh right im stupid thank you. But I saw a board that you can buy on an australian modding shop for like 40$ that converts the superlight 2 to mechanical switches (soldered) idk if that would be worth the poling rate though compared to just buying a superlight 1

[@carlosribeiroo]

@@themomorain yeah probably not the most worth it project but a cool one. Unfortunately Logitech seems to be coasting these days when it comes o actual inovation

[@grqfes]

@@themomorain i saw something like that too but i think it was 10. 40 is too much

[@themomorain]

@@grqfes Yeah the hot swappable ones are cheaper then the soldered ones. I dont have experience but I heard some people saying that they have reliability issues with hot swappable ones

[@2LewExtra]

I switched out my superlight for a DAV3 because of the middle mouse click, whenever I held down middle click and release pressure a tiny amount it'd drop the button press entirely, even tho I haven't actually unclicked. I dont know much about the internals of the mouse but would changing the scroll encoder effect this at all? because I'd consider modding it now that It's not my daily driver anymore.

[@carlosribeiroo]

The encoder is a separate thing from the middle mouse switch, but you can totally replace the middle mouse switch in case it is defective! They are different from the main switches so keep that in mind when shopping for one

[@spoder552]

why has nobody just made a 3d print file for the parts and just swap pcb

[@Tom888CZE]

Hi, are TTC Gold 30M lighter to push then the stock one? I have issues with scroll wheel and want to buy a hotswap PCB for this mouse. It comes with no switches and I want to change the stock ones for lighter ones. I have never liked these stock switches on this mouse. My previous mouse was Logitech G502 Proteus Core - quieter and lighter switches.

[@carlosribeiroo]

I wouldn’t say they are much lighter, probably similar actuation force but much more pronounced clicking feel, the stock ones feel mushier in comparison

[@Tom888CZE]

​@@carlosribeiroo I guess I have to try them out for myself. I'll take these first and see. Thanks.

[@Plitch.]

Did you try the D2F-01F Omron switch? I see a lot of people telling this are the best switch

[@carlosribeiroo]

I have not. With that said there is no objectively best switch. It really is a lot about personal preference and something only you will be able to find the answer to. All I can tell you from my experience with the stock omron, the kailh 2.0 and 8.0 and the ttc gold 30M is that I prefer light and quite tight feeling switches with minimal pre and post travel and the ttc gold are the best I have tried. I would rank them ttc, kailh2.0, 8.0, stock

[@Plitch.]

@@carlosribeiroo thank you for your helpful answer !

[@tymoteuszroszczyk9168]

Is this slight "rattling" in the mouse scroll in the case of Logitech G Pro X 2 normal? There's no point in exchanging it for another one? The only way to get rid of this sound is to replace the encoder? I will add that I previously had a regular G Pro and the scroll wheel also made loud noises.

[@Bitcoinkabayan]

did you find a fix?

[@tymoteuszroszczyk9168]

@@Bitcoinkabayan No, I returned the mouse to the store. This is most likely common in these mice.

[@evilkamatis542]

Does the switch feel lighter or heavier in actuation compared to the stock switches of the superlight? I really like how light and crisp the stock switches are and have tried multiple mice with Kailh and Omron switches and they are usually heavier which I never liked. Never cared for the sound and only for the feel.

[@carlosribeiroo]

I have only tried 5 switches on the super light, the stock omron 20m, kailh 8.0, 4.0 and 2.0 and the ttc gold 30m The TTC are my favorite and in my experience they feel as light if not lighter than all the others but at the same time they are surprisingly crispy on actuation. I have found them satisfying straight out of the box and still enjoy them to this day

[@evilkamatis542]

@@carlosribeiroo thanks for the info man! will be swapping my switch to this :D

[@ВікторЛ-э3ш]

​@@evilkamatis542 Since i see you reply could you give me hint, switches are the same in side button, or there are another type than in left and right front button?

[@carlosribeiroo]

@ВікторЛ-э3ш the side switches are not the same as the main switches. They are smaller in all measurements and they are not as easily replaced. A good idea would be to buy a replacement board with different side switches already installed.

[@ВікторЛ-э3ш]

@@carlosribeiroo Thankyou, thats were right in time))

[@GeorgeWaleczko]

Why do you guys buy such an expensive mouse if you replace most of it afterwards? Not hating, just curious if you cant do that with a budget mouse since you are buying the important bits from aftermarket anyways?

[@carlosribeiroo]

That is a pretty good question, just like with anything if you start with good materials you are going to have a better chance of making something better than if you start with something lacking from the get go. In the case of the superlight, the sensor and the battery life are both pretty great so to me it was more a matter of making the clicks feel better and nothing to do with performance. With that said you can make something pretty great for less money particularly in 2024

[@Bitcoinkabayan]

my Superlight X2 is now having rattling issue with the scroll wheel. I've only been using it for 5 months tops. I am pretty much done withj logitech after using 6 g203 and now this 200$, cheap wireless mouse. Is there a scroll wheel kit I can buy?

[@carlosribeiroo]

I’m pretty sure you can do the exact same thing I did in the video and get a different scroll wheel. Logitech really should do better but I have absolutely no complaints with my Superlight after the mods.

[@watersharky7589]

If Logitech could just get a better sensor, newer up to date switches, USB-C charging (fuck micro USB), a higher polling rate of atleast 2k and higher if possible cuz they can do what Razer did, and release a superlight version, AND A REGULAR (cuz I got big hands and don’t like ultra light weight mice) I would gladly drop more then £100 but till then it’s just not a good option. These things are all achievable, just newer internals, better wireless which Razer has already done, same designs and re release and price and done

[@Schumski28]

Lol you nailed it 100%.

[@MrningStar_]

everyone like ultra lightweight mice u just dont like small mice no one said the shape had to change for the weight to be reduced 60g in 2024 for 150 is criminal

[@n4n412]

hello, can i use those ttc gold switches for the side buttons?

[@carlosribeiroo]

You can’t I don’t think, the side buttons are a different kind of switch to the main mouse 1-2

[@ductrung1]

thank you !

[@ka_deem]

is the click feeling different with the 80m?

[@carlosribeiroo]

I would expect so! I didn’t try them personally

[@ka_deem]

okay ty for the reply!, i think i'll use the same switches that you use@@carlosribeiroo

[@lr4ze]

can you provide the links for the switch and skate ?

[@carlosribeiroo]

Hey! I bought mine off alliexpress simply by looking for a vendor of ttc gold switches and picking the 30 million click variant. Did the same for the encoder by looking for kailh encoder 8mm height to be compatible with the superlight. As for the skates just look for core pads on amazon and you will find them :)

[@alper12784]

thats for the reply. me personally. i find the g pro x switch bit to heavy to press. maybe something little lighter that the stock switch. any u can recommend. i dont know wich one i could go for. i saw few people using the blue gm 2.0 but idk if thats lighter or heavier then the stock gprox @@carlosribeiroo

[@carlosribeiroo]

@Oliver-12 the stock switches are pretty light already. From my list, only the kailh 3.0 and the ttc gold 30m are slightly lighter than stock. Also fixing pre travel on the mouse clicks helps with them feeling lighter as well. Definitely something to try out when you have the mouse disassembled

[@alper12784]

anyone that can help me. im not familiar with mouse switches, i got an extra g pro x, and i want to customize that one. im getting tiger arc 1 v2 skates, with kali encoder. but what switches should i go for. i havent tried any switches that are on the market. anyone that can explain what are the best one to get.

[@carlosribeiroo]

That question is 100% personal preference. Only thing people can tell you is their experience! My personal experience is I have tried the stock omron 20m, kailh 2.0, 4.0 and 8.0 and I have settled on TTC gold 30m. I like my switches to be very tactile, firm but as light and easy to press as possible.

[@DIOPA]

Did you try the Xtrfy M8? This to me is an improvement over the G Pro Superlight

[@cyclone_og]

Mousepad, I want to know your mousepad.

[@cyclone_og]

It's look like paracontrol v2, but I don't sure

[@carlosribeiroo]

It’s the Artisan Hayate Otsu :) I made a video recently about it if you are interested! kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJybq4NupdGCZsk

[@smdgy]

@@carlosribeiroowoah you made a a link work are you a god?

[@bryjbry]

Gru?!

[@memoriial2630]

I used 2 superlights sinced release. and without mods its not really worth buying, since the viper v2 pro is on the market

[@carlosribeiroo]

Logitech really needs to hurry up with that refresh!

[@spoder552]

the only reason why you would ever use this mouse is for the powerplay and never having to plug it in wtf is the purpose of getting this mouse if you remove that just buy a finalmouse then

[@iz.Mystic]

I use a super light and don't ever plan to use power play