Thin Vs Wide | Which Tyre Is Right For You?

[@stealfwayne]

I found that loosing my spare tyre, (from my waist) had the most significant impact on my performance.

[@wsbygt]

Usual idiot comment.

[@desertrainfrog1691]

@@wsbygt Commenters always saying this as if everyone else has a gut to lose for the performance gains.

[@Mylity66]

@@desertrainfrog1691 I need to GAIN some gut, I'm so thin for my height but fast metabolism and biking just keep me on the ultra light side of things

[@desertrainfrog1691]

@@Mylity66 As long as you're healthy and you feel fine, I wouldn't worry too much. Try to find a calorie dense food that you like though, it should help a lot.

[@ANDREWHALL28]

I've lost 3.5 stone since last September The difference on my bike is quite noticeable 😂

[@2739330904]

35mm tubeless at 50psi is clearly optimal for the UKs beautiful surface dressed or regular pothole-dressed roads. Rides like a limousine 👌

[@EmmanuelNataf]

The cost of dealing with the drunkards breaking their beer onto the ground.

[@daniboi4067]

LMFAOOO

[@richardmiddleton7770]

Depends on your weight. For me 50psi on 35's would be bone shaking, 25-30psi would be ok for me on 35's.

[@minseok8726]

Lmao

[@K777John]

At 160lbs weight I run my 30’s at 50psi.

[@roebbiej]

I feel like you guys forgot the most important aspect of tire width. On smooth surfaces, thinner tires at high pressure are the fastest. But since not all roads we ride on are perfectly smooth, the vibrations, bumps and reduced comfort are mitigated by wider, less pumped up tires, resulting in you going faster. Some manufacturers are trying to claim that wider is always faster due to less rolling resistance, which is definitely not true. However in reality most people will go faster on 28 or 30 mm tires since we ride on imperfect roads.

[@EjwiiiMoviesNYMountains]

Bingo, how true.

[@avalsirithanawat1772]

Was going to say that! You beat me to it 😅

[@daape7976]

Yes roads are shit

[@matteo.ceriotti]

I think the GCN itself have a video about this effect. I think it was Simon who did it

[@kidkarbon4775]

Lower rolling resistance.... Why don't manufacturers simply claim it's faster like they do for everything else, could this be because it's not always the case? How many hour records have been attempted on 28mm or wider tyres?

[@ccus944]

One mistake they made is using the recommended tire pressure of the tire manufacturer instead of the wheel manufacturer..…the tire manufacturer doesn’t know what type or size rim you are putting their tire on…you should go by the pressure recommended by the rim manufacturer….in this case, running the tire at 85psi exceeds the maximum pressure designated by Zipp for the new 404 hookless bead rim of 73.5 psi…with today’s carbon rims, it is important to check the internal width of the rim, size tire they are designed for, and the max tire pressure specified(for carbon rims)…Zipp has a detailed tire pressure chart where you fill in your specs and it calculates the recommended pressure, and will even recommend if you should go to a bigger tire size based on your variables….something else to look out for - some tires are not compatible with hookless bead rims…ENVE has a running list of specific tyre brand and models that are not compatible with their hookless rims….I find 25s to be fastest…the fastest road tyre available does not even come in 28…so that makes sense to me….I have fast(low rolling resistance) 25s on my fast bike, and 28s on my bike I use for base miles/easy days…I don’t care about rolling resistance on that bike…for base miles/easy days, low rolling resistance tires do not make sense…you won’t know the difference at those speeds…whatever you choose, above all…have fun!

[@mellowgrellow1375]

When I upgraded to 25s from the standard 22s it was like riding a brand new,. much better bike. Best upgrade ever !

[@gudrune]

Agreed!

[@ChristophMarius]

Slimmer TIres feel faster but are slower. So you might have been fooled

[@daniboi4067]

@@ChristophMarius That's why you on a board

[@quarkonium3795]

@@ChristophMarius Not on uneven surfaces. The jarring bumps in the road from thin tires will more than cancel out the gains from how skinny they are

[@hotsky83]

Try a 28 lol

[@GrotrianSeiler]

I’m of the 23mm generation myself. I’ll stick with those, as long as they are available.

[@smefour]

Road conditions is one of the biggest variables to consider, the rougher more vibrating surfaces may require a wider tire to absorb those vibrations to help keep forward momentum up

[@deleriousdinosaur3205]

my rock solid 23's glides over any bump

[@_xnk7257]

I just love bombing over rough terrain with my 23mm tires at 8 bar and my cartililage being shaken loose, and hitting potholes at full speed and biting the tip of my tongue off.

[@sour3000]

As someone who uses 23mm this is too funny😂

[@rodfrancis9160]

And the fillings falling out from my teeth while I cycle..love 23c !!

[@JozepLazovic]

The road, the bike and us, merging in one. Love it too!

[@MannyFacts]

😂😂😂!!!!

[@HShango]

I prefer 28 wide tyres for my road bike now these days for speed, grip and comfortability when ever I'm on long commutes. Choice is so important these days when it comes to choosing your preference for your bike tyres.

[@matthewsum1752]

I go with 23

[@neil7769]

One really important factor that everyone always ignores is rider weight - if a 25mm tyre is optimal for a heavier rider in a given set of conditions, a 23mm tyre will be for a lighter one (etc). I'm 64kg and run 23mm on 19mm internal rims (they measure 25mm fitted). On my tubs I use a 25mm on the back as they measure the same as the 23mm on the clinchers (incidentally, remember that pros are still running tubs mostly when they are preferring 25mm over 23mm). I've tried wider tyres and they were slower (and felt slower too).

[@wenschobert]

I have to disagree here on one important point. There is a certain point where weight starts to benefit higher pressure and therefore thinner tires. at 100+ kg (and I know many riders having this weight and experiencing similar effects) you deform your tires so much, that a wider tire (since you can't put as much pressure in there) will slow you down. Never tested it tough, all anectodal...

[@neil7769]

@@wenschobert Hmmm.. I wonder if this is just down to getting the inflation pressures correct? You could always run a wider tyre at a higher pressure - not as high as in the narrower tyre, but high enough to make the deformation the same. Unless you are over the maximum pressure with the wider tyres?

[@wenschobert]

@@neil7769 With every tire I'm heavy enough to go max pressure without thinking... Thing is: I'm too heavy for my frame, my rims, my saddle... And if they state a rider weight - also for tires... (Pirelli does recomendations for over 96 kg... I'm (and I know several people) who are about 20% over that...

[@neil7769]

@@wenschobert I see what you are saying, but in theory I can't see how it makes much sense to run a narrower tyre if you are heavy, just because you can supposedly inflate it to a pressure that allows relatively less deformation than a wider tyre at its maximum pressure. It should be the case that the wider tyre can be inflated enough to allow the same or less deformation. I wonder if this is just a hangover from a time when everybody wanted to inflate tyres as hard as possible, and the maximum pressures printed on narrower tyres allow for less of a safety margin than the ones printed on wider tyres.

[@makantahi3731]

in 1995 everybody used 20mm tyres and no problems

[@JThelen1031]

I'm currently running 32mm on my bike, and they are quite comfortable to ride on. They aren't even close to the fastest tires out there (Pirelli Cinturatos), but by that same token, I'm not anything close to being aero or fast either. They're plenty good for getting me out and about on longer rides, as well as the odd TT, because despite being fat and slow, I do find them enjoyable.

[@user-kw1nr5qi4c]

Using 28mm continental, aero drag isn't noticeable as I only average 28-30 kmh. No more pinch flats, skid on brake, and more confidence on slightly imperfect roads.

[@falerving2588]

Those profile pictures...

[@edsinofsky]

Me- 25mm tubeless GP5000TL front, 32mm GP5000TL rear. works great, and the front aero rim is wider than the tire.

[@manitoublack]

Been riding either the pirelli Velo-TT 23 or the Continental TT 23mm tyres for ages. 23mm @ 120PSI with latex inner tubes. It's like you're on rails. the tyre is super stable on the rim and on my Time VXRS the compliance is in the fame. very comfortable very stable. very very fast. tried 25's at 85PSI and they tyre feel's like it's about to roll off the rim around high speed corners descending. Not to mention feeling like I've got a flat rear tyre when getting out of the saddle to sprint. And I'm only 68kg.

[@ItachiGT]

That tarmac there looks in mint condition. That's now what roads here usually look like. It does get a bit (mini) bumpy. The wider tires should have less hysteresis loss.

[@MattSwain1]

I’ve got 30mm on my gravel bike road wheels and it’s good to know to have confirmed that I’d gain little by going narrower. I don’t race (and if I did I wouldn’t use a gravel bike) so I’ll be sticking with what’s comfortable

[@JanKowalski-pe9lo]

They confirmed nothing here. U must looking for psychological acceptance that youve made good choice.

[@GiJoe94]

There is much research confirming that narrower is usually slower in most conditions.

[@letsgo_inc]

I run a 35C gravel slick tubeless on my alloy trek domane. Bulletproof enough for rough roads and gravel, comfy because of the low pressures and easily fast enough for all my group rides. The frame can take up to 38C if I ever needed a more serious gravel setup...

[@rabomarc]

The Domane has become a serious gravel bike with its latest iteration. I used to have a road bike (a Trek Emonda) sold it and got a gravel bike (3T Exploro). Then with some experimenting with tires I settled with 35mm semi slick tires which was way thinner than I suspected at the beginning. Having known that earlier, there’s a good chance I’d be riding a Domane now.

[@asdasd01]

Gravel slick?

[@rabomarc]

@@asdasd01 Panaracer Gravelking Semislick for me, great for gravel that I do and decent on road.

[@letsgo_inc]

@@asdasd01 yep. A panaracer gravelking slick plus in a 700x35C. Think a beefed up road tire.

[@squaredom]

@@letsgo_inc 35C Pirelli Cinturato Velo with a tubeless setup are great too! Light gravel is not an obstacle.

[@colinfisher2463]

My preference was 28's until I accidently ordered some 32's to replace wore out tyres. On the Cumbrian roads I cycle on the extra width means extra comfort against the poor surfaces we have. Little slower if sprinting from slow speed and a couple of watts down on the 25% passes otherwise I feel I have more comfort and control.

[@adamlynch9153]

Every country has poor surfaces lol

[@rumplerino]

26 mm - 446s @242W 30mm - 455s (+2%) @ 240W (-0.9%) 28mm - 458s (+2.7%) @ 239W (-1.2%) So, if you compensate for the lower power-output, the time differences should only be about half of what we see here.

[@gruensein]

Except that power and speed are not linearly related since most of the resistance is aerodynamic drag. So, it is not quite so simple. Beyond that, while I appreciate little tests like this you really cannot draw any meaningful conclusions from this. The environmental conditions (wind, temperature etc.) are not controlled, there should be multiple pressures per tyre choice to find the optimum, same goes for road surfaces. Then there is human error to consider (e.g. you can easily be off by a few seconds through hand timing and the starting procedure). Ideally, each configuration should be tested many times to obtain statistically relevant data. This is why tyres are often tested on drums. It is much easier to isolate the actual effect of the tyre. So, overall this is mostly for entertainment purposes

[@davidmulligan42]

I ordered my Trek Emonda with 28s, and I love them. I'm still using tubes. The 28s felt so much better than the 25s on my old bike that it felt as if they had repaved the local roads. It will easily take 30mm tires, so I'll try those when I need a new set.

[@otisjefferson]

I ride in Montreal, Canada where the roads are garbage. just swapped my 28s for a pair of Rubino Pro 30s and I absolutely love 'em. Big difference in comfort

[@davidmulligan42]

@@otisjefferson I remember seeing lots of cyclists in downtown Montreal, and also thinking that the roads were pretty crappy :) I really wanted to go ride the Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve, but I was with family and couldn't disappear.

[@AJFixie]

Try Tubless on that Emonda!

[@davidmulligan42]

@@AJFixie It's so easy to change a tube on these wheels that I really can't be bothered going tubeless. I have nothing against it, but no need for it either :)

[@julmeissonnier]

I recently rebuilt a 36 spokes 20mm wide tubular alloy box rim from the 70's for a restoration project, test rode them with 22mm tubulars on a Vitus 971 steel frame, and they felt as smooth as 28-30mm tires on a modern bike. Bottom like the sudden love for bigger tires has mostly come from super-stiff carbon frames and deep carbon rims that turned any thin tires into a punishment... Of course, the modern bike with deep carbon rims is faster, but I just wanted to point out why pro riders actually were able to ride cobblestones on 23mm tubulars and in practice small tires were not as horrible as people now think they are...

[@tflspitfire]

very good point!

[@automotive474]

Great insight, thank you so much for sharing

[@adamlynch9153]

I’ve never ridden carbon I just can’t imagine it being that bad

[@julmeissonnier]

@@adamlynch9153 Believe me the worst carbon frames in terms of stiffness and harshness where just around the first generation aero bikes around 2012-2018 (Like the aero Trek Madone, Pinarello F8, Venge) right before the move to bigger tires and disk brakes started to allow significantly more clearance. Those bikes moved to huge profile downtubes, bottom bracket areas, and big profile deep seat posts (sometimes integrated) for improved aerodynamics. They were aero, stiff, heavy and harsh... They would beat you up with a 23mm or even 25mm tires. No wonder Trek came up with the IsoSpeed decoupler around that time to isolate the rider's ass from that tank, and everyone moved to bigger tires, which was also enabled by disk brakes. If you look at the newer bikes, while the downtube and BB area has stayed huge for stiffness, the seat tubes, seat stays and seat posts have become a lot thinner to not be as stiff... Seat post have moved back from big deep profile to 27.2mm or even D-shape so they would be a lot more flexible...

[@mmilestones]

Congratulations. I think this is one of the best videos GNC Tech has produced. The preparation, research and editing really shows.

[@CKBrew]

Great video, also nice to hear the discussion about mixing tire widhts in the front&back!

[@ddthompson42]

I run 25f and 28r. I don't ride fast (19-21MPH on the flat is about as quick as I need to go), but it made a big difference in headwinds when I switched the 28 for a 25 out front.

[@bikepackingadventure7913]

Using 32 continental GP5000 TL on my carbon 50mm deep rims ……….. why? Lack of U.K. government in investment in ‘Maintenance surfacing’ on our roads’ We need as a country, to stop building new roads, as we cannot maintain our current ones 🤔🤔 Using 60psi

[@jonathanzappala]

I have a set of 50mm deep wheels from light bicycle that have a 25mm internal/32mm external. It pairs great with 32’s.

[@Nessunego]

For road cycling I love 25mm tubetype tyres pumped at the maximum possible pressure. Never had comfort issues nor grip issues also on the wet. I use 28mm tyres for gravel and 35mm tyres on mtb. Always tubetype. No tubless for me, please.

[@mmilestones]

That's is what I am thinking. Can't weight to find out soon!!!!

[@franco992]

For what it’s worth, having tried various tyres, I suggest buying good quality tyres (high TPI count) for comfort and speed on UK roads. No need to go very wide or run very low pressures. I’m currently on 27s with 300TPI and they are terrific. I’ll be opting for the same tyre but 25s when the time comes.

[@회기-c3w]

This test would make more sense using a set gear ratio and pace so that the speed would be constant. The look at the wattage.

[@zukzworld]

I use 28mm in the front and 25mm rear in one of the bikes; and the other bike is 32mm front and back. The bike with 28/25 millimeter is significantly faster and fun to ride.

[@jamesong2672]

25mm vittoria Corsa with latex tube. I am not sure am I faster or not as I don’t race or ride against time. All I know is, it rides very comfortable.

[@R20VT100M]

I've only ever used 23c tyres on my road bikes on British roads. I didn't realise most people run wider ones. Ive always been shaken to pieces so it looks like I'll be changing tyre width next time 😆

[@mlee6050]

Only 23? The last 5 years I been on 22mm tubular at 100psi on British roads, never got puncture, I'm here as hearing clincher got better so I'm looking if go 25mm or 28mm and be nice as can balance the wheel easier with hidden weights, that can't with tubular

[@DJWolves97]

I recommend avoiding plastic inner tubes, yes the weight and durability are pros, but I recommend latex inner tubes because of the increased tire traction and decreased rolling resistance.

[@nofascistsonmywatch]

Yes, even though they are factors which cannot be 'measured' as so many demand, the suppleness, and response which a latex tube delivers, is loads better than any 'dead' butyl tube (or even the more co$tly polymer tubes) could possibly provide (especially when paired with an equally responsive/supple, high TPI count, superior quality tire). ;)

[@hunterskis]

Started with 32, got a flat and went down to 30. Another flat now 28 in front and 30 in rear. (Hard to find tire these days on shops when you need them quick in Denver these days) Tubeless SWorks. Around town,I think 28 or 30 are definitely the way to go. We have some nice in town gravel trails as well and the 30 makes it no brainer to go between surfaces for everyday rides. I think there are a couple ways to think about "faster". A 30-40 mile ride on in town w/ bumps, rough roads, over course of couple hours if you are more comfortable, less fatigue, in the end it seems you would carry a higher speed over longer distance. This vs just looking at watts/speed over shorter track. Just a thought...

[@woutervanes3533]

28 mm are the best. I have two bikes, one with 23 mm and one with 28 mm. The comfort you get with the 28 mm is just phenomenal, although we have quite good roads here in the Netherlands (compared to Belgium, UK, etc.)

[@dimi3585]

Belgische wegen vragen om een fully mtb 😉😂

[@adamlynch9153]

32mm is best tbh

[@petermyers4409]

I ran 23 with tubes from 2013 to 2020, simply because that's what my bike came with and I was very much an occasional rider. Then I spent a summer working in Ireland and on terrible condition ( but beautiful) roads, I started wondering if I could be more comfortable and watched a GCN vid with Si explaining ways to improve comfort so I switched to 28. It's so much better, more grip more confident. I actually feel like I'm going slower but the times on my regular runs show I'm not. The bike is noticeably heavier when I pick it up. Not really noticeable when I ride it however. So glad I made the change. Thanks to all at GCN

[@richardmiddleton7770]

All depends on rider weight. A 60kg rider won't need more than 23's at 60psi. A 90kg rider might need 28's at 80psi. Also remember it's not just about the tyre width but tyre weight also. There might be 50-100g difference between 23mm and 28mm tyres and as it's peripheral weight on a rotating wheel it makes a big difference unless on a completely flat road at a constant speed.

[@chuchuchip]

I use 28mm on my grocery getter @ 90psi. When pressure drops below 80 - 85psi the bike feels notably "heavier" to pedal, dramatically slows when I coast. You have also answer a question of a bigger tire on the rear (gonna try it). I do carry groceries on my bike. Taking a lesson from Europeans; twin pannier baskets or bags on the rear, bipod kickstand (hard to find a good one in the States).

[@AJFixie]

My new Emonda came with 25mm tubed setup. I changed it to 28mm tubeless. I love the smoothness of the 28 setup but I haven't been convinced it was faster.

[@davidmulligan42]

For me, the 28s help just because I'm no longer rattling over some of the chip seal back roads we have around here. The 28s have really taken the buzz out of the ride compared to 25s.

[@g.fortin3228]

you may in fact have not gained speed if your local roads are in nice shape. You gained comfort so that's a win.

[@jackacres2805]

Did it feel slower tho?

[@AJFixie]

Judging by my Strava times I'd say I'm slower. Maybe I should try 25's but with the tubeless setup.

[@g.fortin3228]

@@AJFixie just be sure to give it a chance.. dial in your PSI for your body weight on the tires and thin tubes. Too low a PSI and it will be slower for sure. The extra durability and comfort of the larger tires is worth a small tradeoff too. (edited/corrected!) 25fr/28rear might be a another good option too.

[@Malcom2345]

So many variables in this test that cud easily account for any time discrepancies but entertaining

[@stevenr5149]

I realized that I like the sensation of floating along--even if it is/feels slightly slower. So much more enjoyable and relaxing feeling. I'm not giving up any performance with my 42mm Baby Shoe Pass extra light tires(A sober look in the mirror told me that aerodynamics don't matter for me ;)

[@Jeff-bd4gg]

In terms of absolute performance, you can save more watts by keeping your tires narrower than your rim width. Also, if you want more comfort, a road bike is not really the best choice

[@reginaldscot165]

Correct.

[@mmilestones]

That has definitely crossed my mind-- I am looking at my Domane with huge 32mm tires being so much bigger than my rims. There has got to be some aerodynamics lost. I am switching to 25mm tires. Looking forward to seeing how that works!!!!

[@AriKona]

Since I am having a difficult time finding 20's for my bike, I have widened to 23. Going faster? Not really. Going slower? Maybe because of age, but not because of the tires.

[@nofascistsonmywatch]

HA! Soon, the way this is trending (just like the quickly disappearing rim brake wheels), you will not be able to find 23s anymore! ;) :( :(

[@mikemercado1957]

Lots of climbs, use narrow. Lots of bumps, use wider. I have 34 and 25. 34 is supreme in comfort, but hella slow. Just trade offs. Im getting 28. Probably best or inferior of both worlds.

[@stug45]

26-30 isn't really thin to wide? 23-32 would be!

[@brauljo]

32 mm ain't wide

[@stug45]

@@brauljo it is for a road bike!

[@clearlyabot]

i agree, maybe a 23-35 would be the range

[@agutojason]

the tire sponsor (zero race) comes with 26-30 width only, that's why

[@daniboi4067]

@@agutojason :*(

[@miket2646]

Love how none of the tests they do ever contain a group of identical runs to see the riders natural variance in time.

[@kaspervestergaard2383]

It's useless anyways. Cannot test it like this at all no matter what.

[@SagnikDasgupta]

Error bars? What are those?

[@pflichtprogramm1]

Interesting to see that, great summary! Personally, I will definitely stick to inner tubes for the sake of practicality. I'm riding my road bike unfrequently, so maintaining the tire pressure would be an 'additional' work. Also, having started to go road cycling with inner tubes in ~2008, switching to tubeless would lead to at least GBP150 cost of investment (after deducting income from selling inner tube wheels). However, being limited by my bicycle frame in terms of the rear tire width, I might one day switch to tubeless at the rear tire: Comfy ride at a decent puncture resistance. Plus, I wouldn't need to buy another frame to fit in a wider tire.

[@swe223]

It has been tested over and over at bicyclerollingresistance that wider tires are indeed faster *at the same pressure*. But if you keep the same level of comfort, decreasing the pressure in wider tires, all widths will have equal rolling resistance. Conclusion is: resistance is proportional to comfort. Choose the comfort level that you want, then select the thinest tire that can provide this level of comfort without bottoming out and risking a flat (take one size of margin maybe). Otherwise a wider tire is just more weight for nothing

[@djfung]

Real word road is full of cranks ,pot holes and drain caps. A wide tire with lower pressure allows you to run over bumps without loosing speed. Where as a 23c tire with 100 psi would send your bike upwards. A 28c @80 would eat the bump without distorting forward momentum.

[@janeztomazic5546]

@@djfung so why are the pros running 23 front on TT bikes, TTs have pot holes,...

[@SecwetGwiwer]

GCN never seem to get this, they just keep pushing the line that wider is faster. It’s almost as if they’re trying to please their sponsors 🤷‍♂️

[@ericcoxtcu8037]

They talk about this directly in the video, including referencing bicycle rolling resistance's tests.

[@stug45]

@@djfung I run my 28 at 65/70psi depending on wet or dry or if I want comfort or speed

[@jamesnoble2631]

Nice experiment, apart from one major problem, the new Zipp 404 is Hookless has a max recommended tire pressure of 72.5psi. It's always worth noting both wheel and tire pressure recommendations. I personally run new 303FC with Pirelli 28 Race at just 60psi.

[@wsbygt]

Me too! I´m running 303 Firecrest with PZero Race SL and its a very fast setup. My average speed was raised almost 4Kmh. Im never going back to less than 28C.

[@The2808erik]

Most of time the rubber mixture and tire thread has way more rolling resistance impact than width.

[@all4288]

I've been looking into 404FC tire compatibility and don't think the 26mm Pirellis PZero Race TLR tires are even cleared for hookless rims. And not being familiar with their packaging, did GCN even use the TLR or tube-type in this video? 🤔

[@davidburgess741]

Haha Haha. Just try that with a 17 stone rider!

[@jamesnoble2631]

All Pirelli TLR tires are Hookless compatible. Regarding other manufacturers, best to check Zipp's "which tires work with Hookless" list. I've just set up a set of 404FC Hookless, 26mm front, 28mm rear. 303s and 404FC are 21mm internal, 303FC is 25mm (28mm tire min size)

[@davidweissmann8069]

Road bikes have a weight split of ~ 60/40 % rear wheel load / front wheel load . One could use a larger tire up front and have a safer contact area , more comfort for the bumps we encounter. or pressure consideration if both tires are the same width , the rear more pressure . See" Frank Berto's tire pressure chart" for some more input on this topic.

[@gnrands50]

My "gravel bike" came with 32 mm tires at 85 psi. They were comfortable and traction was confidence inducing. I switched to 23 mm at 110 psi and the difference in rolling resistance is significant. The ride is a bit firmer, but I prefer the thinner tires because I'm lazy and want the most distance for the least amount of effort.

[@Nephrak]

Did you record your times? most people perceive more speed with thinner tires but don't experience much measurable benefit.

[@gnrands50]

@@Nephrak Most of my riding is commuting to and from work and I do pay attention to how long it takes me to complete the 10-mile ride. Since I am a law-abiding cyclist, traffic lights affect my commute time more than tires. My fastest rides were with the narrower, higher-pressure tires. I also notice that I can maintain higher RPMs at the pedals (in the same gear) with the faster tires. You are right that the difference is small, and many riders may prefer the smoother ride of softer tires.

[@jnieuwerf]

Thank you for your video (big fan). I live in Céret France, the start of a stage in the Tour de France this year. Our roads are bad. I have switched to 30 mm tires and at 57 years, I am improving on my PR's. I invite you to come here and do a similar tire comparison on real (bad) Pyrenees roads.

[@jouwtuip]

It's a beautiful area to ride! Chapeau!

[@matthewbooker1972]

When I was a lad and got my first proper road bike in 1989 I was running 18MM Hutchinson tyres pumped up to a lovely 120PSI.

[@yisraels4555]

Same time period 17 mm specialized slicks also at 120 psi. What a harsh ride. Same bike with "wide" 25mm at a 80 psi is such a pleasure and control on crappy roads.

[@peterwillson1355]

20s front, 23s rear. Nice. Thank you .

[@alexr6033]

Continental Gatorskins in 28mm with 85PSI front and 95PSI rear. I'm a heavy rider and it works well on my Trek Checkpoint SL5.

[@Checker201lol]

I'm running Schwalbe one at 23mm (87psi, I'm lightweight), because then I can remove my wheels from the frame for transportation easily and I am quiet happy with the performance and the comfort of the tyres.

[@otm646]

I'm still running vintage 27" wheels. There's hardly any tire options left, the only thing I can vary is pressure.

[@kingprone7846]

get a new bike

[@otm646]

@@kingprone7846 Nah, I'd just fit a 700c wheel set and long reach calipers. Nothing matches the feel of a classic steel frame, no reason for something new. These modern carbon frames and wheels are disposable.

[@otm646]

@James Smith if you are competing they have their place, but none of these frames or wheel sets are going to be around in 20 or 30 years. Barring hitting a car my steel frame is going to last indefinitely. I see no reason to put your physical safety on the line on the street to run carbon anything. The chance of instantaneous catastrophic failure while adjacent to vehicle traffic is simply not acceptable.

[@kingprone7846]

@@otm646 you will be slower and less comfortable

[@otm646]

@@kingprone7846 I have ridden all the fancy carbon bikes, they are not more comfortable. Faster, sure but I'm riding classic japanese steel as transportation, I don't need a race car. Plus the modern geometry sucks, it's not rider friendly. I would have to go to a gravel bike to get something similar to what I have now.

[@qua000705]

Tyres have been getting wider because riders are also getting 'wider'. Very few weigh less than 175 lb anymore. Too many complaints of blown tubes and rims led the industry to this, and its interesting how it is now miraculously faster also!

[@GiJoe94]

Physics

[@brankododig1585]

For races, spirited rides, and even long distances, running Corsa Speed tubeless at 23mm, my wheels are 25-ish mm external. On bad roads I just drop the pressure to 95 psi and it's really a comfortable setup, 105 psi on really good roads. Running GP5000 TL in 25mm for training on a spare wheelset, the Corsa Speeds are really delicate in comparison.

[@scherzo0o]

I'd have addressed a more specific issue (anyway it's dodgy science what you're doing here). In kids' race, the roll out of the bike is restricted (for instance, in my country, it's 6.08m for kids of 11-12 years old). Now, how you get to the value closest to the limit is a problem involving several variables. My son's bike is 1x11 setup, with 34 teeth front, 12-25 cassette and 28mm tires on 23mm internal width rims. It gets at 6.05 meters in this way - so pretty damn good. Next year, he will jump to another category, with 6.48m roll out. I'm moving to 36 teeth front, but with the same tires, I'll go to 6.39. Changing to 30mm will get him 6.44, which is way better. Shall I? Any inconveniences to take into consideration (other than weight)?

[@grandad1982]

38mm gravelking ss. Comfort, comfort comfort. Also off road a bit and the shocking uk roads. Comfort.

[@jameswatt7445]

Zipp 303s with Schwalbe Pro One 25mm tyres are super comfortable with Zipp’s required tyre pressures. Tyres measure the same width as the external width as the rim I don’t see why you would want to go to a larger tyre size unless road surface dictates.

[@kiltymacbagpipe]

so, I guess I’ll hold off on sanding down all the knobs on my 2.4” MTB tires to make the fastest road tires ever.

[@macstmanj3]

Yeah you'd wanna grab some 2.8-3 inchers

[@davidburgess741]

Bald car tires would be the world's fastest. Weight no longer matters.

[@ariesrinosa7099]

Yes. My friend did sand his tires too. May he rest in peace. 🤣 jk

[@officialdreymedina3468]

Just get a slick tire 😂

[@baltsu]

My Bianchi had 700x25c Vittorio tires when I bought it as new but now this summer when it was time to replace those tires I chose Conti 5000 in size 700x28c. I think it's more confortable when tires are bit wider.

[@anthonybennett6089]

Something else to consider, the width of the rim combined with the width of the tyre👍

[@samz5943]

I run 38c Panaracer Gravel King +TLC at 60psi on my 2018 Trek Domane SL5 Disc on stock Bontrager TLR aluminum rims.

[@szurketaltos2693]

What a cute dog!

[@adccars359]

I'm so happy I invested in tires pre covid. tire prices and availability is outrageous

[@Gugner]

Go up from 23 mm to 25 mm. Perfect(-; 33 mm feels and slower, on my bike. 28 mm is ok, but 25 mm are perfect for road. Just perfect. And YES: 28 mm are perfect for off road terrain. My experience from almost 11.000 km in one year.

[@johnnyk6906]

Specialized did R&D and found 26mm to be "best" for performance and comfort. my Tarmac came with 26mm but my older Synapse came with 25mm and have tried one size up and down. for me with 180lbs weight, 25/26mm with 90psi works best for both performance and comfort.

[@evildr.foucci]

For me 23mm is the fastest but I like 28mm for handling and comfort, for traning I use 28s and for races I use 24mm or 25 and for my tt bike 23 is the way to go

[@joeeaster]

What would be the impact of tire width on climbing? Does a wider tire provide more traction and how does the extra weight impact that in the overal... would also be a nice comparison to do on a longer climb.

[@mmilestones]

I personally still believe in rotational weight affecting one's ability to climb but now there are videos coming out saying rotational weight doesn't matter.

[@owenchase4017]

There are at least three more good options. 1. Use a rear tire one size larger than the front, because it carries more weight. 2. use two tires the same size but use higher pressure in the rear, because it carries more weight. 3. Most tires give a pressure range on the tire, so maybe use the max pressure in the rear tire, and the minimum pressure in the front.

[@lloydbligh5601]

Just to experiment I put 32mm on the front and 35mm on the rear, works fine found the steering a little more sensitive, less rubber on road.

[@EugeneLopez-tp5hb]

The best cycling channel on the web. Love these guys.

[@benturp3492]

Jeeeezuz those pressures sound so low. On my TT bike got Tubs depending on the road but not below 120! Front is 22mm and rear 25mm continental competition.

[@daanprins6730]

I like videos like these. I started out with 23c tyres because the bike I borrowed came with them . When I bought a new bike of my own it came with 25c tyres wich felt way more comfortable to me so I stayed with that size after wearing that set out. I'm now riding on 25c conti 4 season tyres witch are by no means a fast rolling Tyre but they do give me a lot of confidence in all kinds of conditions and still feel pretty quick

[@robbiwright3517]

My recent scultura disc build has gone from 25c to 28c and now 32c which is the most comfortable on the country B roads i ride on . Definitely wider is the best all rounder.

[@janeztomazic5546]

it is for our grandparents not for going fast

[@hellergang]

I agree with their conclusion that the thinner tire feels faster. The perceived (and real) speed difference should be the consideration for people going on longer rides. I ride for 2 -8 hours. I never ride for 2 minutes around a track. The test should demonstrate how its feel riding it. And, I don't mean cushion - yes, wider is softer on bumpy roads, even dreamy! But, that's not what is important to me. I want to ZERO rolling resistance. I don't want to even know I have tires. And, I want to go fast! The question is how much energy do you have to put out to push those tires along whether going for 1 hours when you're rested or after going 75 miles and climbing 7000' and you're tired. What's your average pace on both tires given all other things being somewhat equal. Simply said, do you feel like you are being propelled along or are dragging a boat anchor? Going on a flat track ride is not the right test. You need to do a 50 or 100 miles. And, see if you feel you're dragging your bike or is it rolling along easily. I did my own tests comparing a 25 and 28mm tire and results was crystal clear. I absolutely HATED the 28mm tire. It was a boat anchor, I will never ride them again.

[@fritzel7858]

I think it depends on different factors to find the right tires! I work as a courier. I've ridden 25mm for years. As I don't race or generally compete, I switched to 28mm rear about 3 years ago due to bad road conditions and cobblestones here! Which brought a slight improvement in comfort! I now ride 28 mm at the front and even 32 mm at the rear (max. tire clearance of my bike). The comfort is much better now and I'm definitely faster on our bumpy roads, of course slower on the -few- new, smooth roads! I think there's also a slight training benefit from running wider tires! Because of the higher watt output that you have to produce to drive the same speeds as on narrower tires! Even if you probably don't notice it in a race and on 25 mm!

[@fritzel7858]

Speaking of training benefits! I use my working hours as training intervals! During my work I carry a huge square "suitcase" on my back, which acts like a brake parachute, and at the same time I wear relatively loose clothing! I try to drive at my typical average speed of about 30-35 km/h! And in between I try to reach my top speed again and again! If I then ride without a backpack and with good cycling clothing in my free time, it feels as if I have a constant tailwind, even when there is a headwind! Maybe you should try it and make a video about it... and since I ride a track bike fixed with 49/15, Ollie spontaneously comes to mind as the perfect guinea pig! And before anyone gets upset about fixed gear here; Of course I drive with front brakes!

[@steveb0503]

Alright, I run 38c tires (700c diameter) on my gravel bike @ 79 lbs of pressure (because I ride mostly road) and have stem and seat-post suspension to compensate for the harder ride (aluminum frame). The tires are Specialized Pathfinders and even though they are are pumped tight, they handle pretty well on the moderate off-road riding that I do. Gotta say, I love this setup on the tarmac and am pretty satisfied with it on the trails too. I understand that this sort of set-up flies in the face of pretty much EVERYTHING I've ever heard about what is recommended - but it works for me...

[@markp353]

Interesting video. Understand you have a limited amount of time to produce a show, but to have any results that might have been reliable you needed to do 3-5 runs for each tyre size then use the averages to get a more reliable result. To me the conclusion is that going wider is so close in straight line speed as narrow, that the benefits of more grip and comfort make wider the clear winner. And let's be honest, the aero difference is negligible when body position on the bike is going to have a much greater impact. If you do not have the fitness to sustain that aero position, then why go narrow

[@overcookit1433]

Whatever tire manufacturers recommend as the best tire for me, I will stay with my NOS Supersonics (the ones that really had the size that was printed on the sidewall) with 20mm in front on a Mavic Cosmic Carbone SSC and 23mm in rear on either a HED Trispoke or a HED 3D-discwheel (a trispoke with closed holes), as long as I can catch those. Thanks to Josh Portners video "Your tires are lying to you", I (132 lb/60kg with 5.8ft/1,77m, riding a TT bike) reduced the pressure down from 131 psi/9 bar in front and 116 in rear in steps of nearly 4 psi to 102 psi/ 7 bar in front and 87 psi/6 bar on the rear tire, which feels smooth, and seems the best possible compromise between aerodynamics and rolling resistance. @GCN Tech: Have you tested what the size of the 25mm tire is on both a 13C and a 15C rim, as the tire size seems to refer to 19C-rims?

[@wsbygt]

I´m running 303 Firecrest with PZero Race SL and its a very fast setup. My average speed was consistently raised almost 4Kmh over 130-150Km rides. Im never going back to less than 28C or pressures beyond 4.5BAR... specially with the type of roads we find nowadays.

[@superstar8841]

You mean average speed 40kmh over long ride ?

[@wsbygt]

@@superstar8841 During Covid lockdown 55Km loop: 38Km\h any other weekend ride 27~28,5Km\h. But my FTP stayed pretty much the same.

[@therampcity]

I did the club ride on my cross bike last year with 32 tyres on, it was hard as hell, they did not roll, was hanging on all day long. I swapped out to 28's and it was way better. Probably because the 32s we gravel kings and are a bit sticky for road riding.

[@halbritt]

Aero is the biggest factor here and it's specific to the width of the wheels. See the "rule of 105". It is quite likely that the 30mm would be better on a wider wheel.

[@peterbarr2011]

Another great video from GCN, answers my question perfectly. Thank you GCN!!!

[@davidburgess741]

Riding aluminium track bike with 25mm front tire on 16 bladed spoke wheel, carbon fork. The rest of the frame is so rigid the 28mm back tire is a welcome addition. Got some aero like the bottles behind the seatpost. Still not ready for the rotational weight not mattering concept. If it didn't we'd all ride solid steel wheels.

[@danielburges8176]

Got the 23/25 combo on my TT bike for that aero & rolling resistance combo sweet spot. Used to have latex innertubes too but they’re a pain in the butt

[@nofascistsonmywatch]

HA! If you think having to pump up tires every single ride is a pain, try having to glue tires onto the rims, like we had to (NO race grade clincher tires whatsoever way back then!)when I first started racing in 1970. We also had to pump up said tubulars every ride as well, at least if we were using the higher grade, latex tubed variety (think; Clement Campionato Del Mundo Setas), even for training. ;)

[@danielburges8176]

@@nofascistsonmywatch My first set of carbon race wheels were tubulars - absolute pain in the everything yes!

[@seniorcycling5352]

You’re also on a perfectly smooth track. I live in Pennsylvania USA and the roads here are crap. We have more miles of road than any other US state, so our transportation budget has to be spread further, and that leads to a lot of roads not being kept up for long periods. If you run any smaller than 28 here, it’s slows you massively. Location is a big factor

[@k04s4]

I can hardly ride my road bike here in Pennsylvania (bucks county) I'm always picking my all road or gravel bike, running 40mm or 47mm over my 26mm road bike. Plus the shoulder is tiny and drivers are horrible.

[@seniorcycling5352]

@@k04s4 gravel has become a staple in PA. I just went to an event 2 weeks ago that was sold out at 300 riders. And I run 28 on mine, and I live in a super small town so even though I’m by a state route there’s not too much traffic. I always use a blinking light though. Most of my friends have Garmin radar systems. Great safety tech

[@cunningtim]

We in PA are #1-in worst roads. I think GCN did another video about how wider tires are faster on real surfaces as they deform over bumps rather than bouncing over them, increasing grip, comfort, reducing fatigue, etc.

[@k04s4]

@@cunningtim being slightly slower by a few seconds on daily rides is fine with me, stopping to replace a tube or switch from tubeless to tube isn't a fun part of my riding. I just wish the drivers followed the law and gave space. I've been hit before.

[@MstrRo]

@@k04s4 I did a survey of n=1 and drivers that blew there horns right next to you and came unsafely close when passing. At other times, They road black pick-up trucks....many with diesel engines that blew black smoke as they stopped on the accellerator when they go by. I was hit also...wrecked only the bar tape, so I was lucky. Be safe out there.

[@EJGilb]

Wouldn't it be better to just use the size that is optimized for your rim?

[@mmilestones]

That's what I am thinking too. Definitely an affect on aerodynamics.

[@g.fortin3228]

I'm running largish 25's that measure about 27..Conti GP4000ii. ... but will be going to a largish 28 (around 29.5) for the rear. Road conditions are rough on part of my routes and comfort and jarring are a consideration for sure. If I had perfect roads I'd stick with the 25's F & R as really quite happy with them. Nothing to complain about except the roads.

[@epope98]

just wanted to point out your on flat terrain. try with some elevation or different inclines. thanks for the video but that little bit of info would be nice

[@brentonedwards9756]

I have 23mm on front with tube for aero as there are no tubeless 23mm and 28mm tubeless rear for comfort and rolling resistance

[@zulhelmihei5864]

do u mix 23mm front and 28mm rear tyre?

[@TomsTenorHorn]

My custom 1980's steel bike was built for 19mm tubulars, it will take a max 23mm clincher and is consistently half a mile per hour quicker than my modern aluminium frame with 25mm over the same roads ... same brand Vittoria tyres on both bikes and running 100 psi ... I weigh 134 lbs and genuinely find both bikes equally as comfortable to ride ... we are and always have been slaves to marketing.

[@sixstanger00]

I'm not sure I follow the logic behind "wider = less rolling resistance." ??? A wider tire by definition, will have a larger contact patch. The larger the contact patch, the more resistance the tire must overcome. If wider tires were faster, road bikes would be running chunky tires like mountain bikes (but without the knobbies). Theoretically, if you could make a road bike tires as thin as a pizza cutter, it would be the fastest rolling possible (because the contact patch would be virtually micrometers). This would be amazing in a straight line, but the bike wouldn't steer worth a toot because not enough contact for stability or traction. Modern road bikes are sleeker and lighter than they were in the 80s, so any losses caused by slightly wider tires are probably compensated for by the lighter materials.

[@CRITESBIKER]

A trailer loaded with weight and attached to a scale or load/force measuring device would be better. Better yet, something that pulls the bike while behind a car that measures force/load.

[@7mpowerd]

700x32 for the win. Comfortable tire for us clydesdales but still sold in fast rolling selection.

[@Raven34gtr]

I'm running 23's on my bike and I feel very uneasy on it so I'm going to change it to a 28, I don't go racing and I want more comfort and grip.

[@Rickinsf]

I'm not a racer and just switched from 25mm to 32mm and the quality of the ride is much improved.

[@elachichai]

Won't the weight of the tire matter? 38mm tire weighs 80g more than 25mm tire. 32mm vs 25mm at the same pressure of 80 psi. Which is faster on a) glass smooth tarmac b) rougher shoulders and roads By how much can we extend this theory... 38mm road tire at 50psi vs 25mm road tire at 80psi, 50psi? Is it worth going to 38mm, if we are retaining 80psi of 25mm, instead of dropping to 50psi, at all?

[@123moof]

For most of us mere mortals anything that gets us on the bike more often with the biggest smile is the best tire size. If cycling for fun and health, comfort is king. I personally commute on severe overkill 2.5" or 3" tires depending on which bike I grab. I roll over tree limbs, rocks, small critters, pot holes, and other debris effortlessly that would shut down any roadie tire. A fat cargo bike with 29+ tires is my go-to favorite bike right now, something I would never have guessed a few years ago.

[@tomneufeld6477]

It would have been interesting to see what kind of results you got if you had expanded the test after the first round of results and added ~5-10lbs pressure to one of the larger sets of tires to see how they felt and/or were as fast as the smaller tires at recommended pressure.