This is my DIY Rat Rig Corexy 3d printer with Carbon Fiber EVA 3 parts Episode 1

[@leesmithsworkshop]

I know this is not really on topic as I have stayed in the Retro theme for just about everything else, but this is my current passion and now the 2nd printer is made and the videos are in the works I can start to move on to other projects that will be combining retro, 3d printing and electronics again. Just let me get this out of my system haha.

[@VincentGroenewold]

Wow, those results from the first version are amazing! Really want to get into this as well, thanks for sharing!

[@leesmithsworkshop]

I had very low expectations for the first and thought it would take a lot of messing about to get decent prints. Klipper is just so easy to tune and change settings compared to recompiling firmware for marlin.

[@keithmeyers3718]

WOW I'm new to the 3D printing world 6 months and about 8 spools of filament I'm loving it. This print itself is a work of art!!! You sir should be very proud. Maybe one day I will try to build one like this but I still have a lot to learn. Now going to watch 2nd part Thank You for this video

[@AndrewAHayes]

Thats a neat design, thanks to the algorithm for pointing me to this video +1 very interested new subscriber!

[@leesmithsworkshop]

Thank you, the Algorithm has not been kind to me with this video and my impressions are way WAY down compared to some of my others.

[@barkstamassi]

Nice work Lee! 👊🙏🔥

[@leesmithsworkshop]

Thank you 🙌

[@michaelpiper6601]

Very nice 👍

[@leesmithsworkshop]

Thank you for watching.

[@tremorchrist84]

Very cool, Sir. Great work.

[@Plan-C]

Looks great!

[@1FishinAddict]

Nice build, should you try modifying the bed got 3points kinematic leveling next ?

[@leesmithsworkshop]

I did think about it and also 4 point, but I was not sure how to do the joints.

[@SianaGearz]

I've got much less of a budget (yet) so i have been thinking of building something similar to Tech2c's Hypercube, except with frame from wood or something else relatively cheap, at most square metal profile or angle, not these nice profiles. No linear rails. But it'll be a little till i can really start working on it.

[@leesmithsworkshop]

The problem with wood is it's grows and contracts with temperature so you could have z height issues one day, loose belts the next.

[@SianaGearz]

@@leesmithsworkshop im running a wooden printer right now. I'm aware. There are ways around that. The smooth rods need to be pretensioned and I have steel threaded rods running through my printer at strategic spots, and funny warping is a thing that happens as well that needs accounted for. Temperature isn't really much the issue, humidity though...

[@leesmithsworkshop]

@@SianaGearz I just remember what Makers Muse said in his recent video.

[@JakobHaas]

This is so awesome! When do you release part 2 of this video series?

[@leesmithsworkshop]

not sure, I have not had much time to work on the printer recently.

[@Colin_Ames]

Very interesting. I guess you need a 3D printer to make the parts to build a 3D printer!

[@leesmithsworkshop]

That is Rep Rap way. One thing in the Voron community is printing Voron parts for others. The 3d printed parts I used are listed as open source with a none commercial licence.

[@raulgoncalves3075]

Great job!! What is the price of building this machine?

[@leesmithsworkshop]

it depends what parts you use. My first was around £1000 after all the upgrades. You can buy the cheaper linear rails or get good LDO ones, same for the stepper motors. Use an old printer board again if you have one. the EVA 2.4 is very open to many parts too.

[@unlock-er]

This is a very involved project. Thanks for sharing. It's amazing. I'm in the middle of building one too but not as involved, however, I do need to cut linear rail a bit. How did l should I go about in doing this? I don't have an angle grinder but I do have a mitre saw and a multi tool. Will any of them do? Thanks

[@leesmithsworkshop]

they are hardened steel so hand tools are going to be hard work and you don't want to get it hot, it could warp the rail. Multitool with a DREMEL® EZ SpeedClic: Metal Cutting Wheels 5-Pack. (SC456) would be my suggestion.

[@unlock-er]

@@leesmithsworkshop Thanks mate. don't have a dremmel unfortunately. so you reckon a mitre saw can potentially make it warp?

[@unlock-er]

or potentially, where do you source your linear rail from? I need an odd 330mm length.

[@Leviathan3DPrinting]

It's gonna bother me forever that you only put 3 bolts in those AB motors lol.

[@clb1024]

Do you have a unified place to get all the files and supplies needed to build this? I have an Ender 3 that gives me so much hell. I'd love to build my own Core XY printer versus buying one.

[@leesmithsworkshop]

I don't because a lot of the parts are cut on my cnc, you can just build a Voron or Rat Rig and have a lot better results, this printer is very much a work on progress.

[@karipenttila2655]

Anti slack nuts are upside down 😮

[@g4egk]

Good job on the build and documenting it. What CNC machine do you have?

[@leesmithsworkshop]

I have a Workbee CNC from Ooznest

[@khoaphamvan9178]

What size of linear rail did you use for your printer machine? And what size can you 3D printer do 300x300x300mm or less? I have linear rail 15mm. Can i build for it? Thank you.

[@SKWDiesel1]

Hi Lee, exactly what grease/lubricant did you use to re-lubricate the linear rail carriages?

[@leesmithsworkshop]

3 in 1 white lithium, but I have been told it's better to use EP1 lithium grease

[@michaeltilse4233]

WD-40 is not a lubricant! It stands for "Water Displacement formula 40". It was developed for waterproofing the wiring in Atlas Missiles in the 1960's. It has a volatile solvent to make it fluid and penetrating, but the other part is a waterproof polymerizing resin that penetrates along with the solvent then HARDENS creating a durable waterproof barrier. And also when it hardens it glues together all the shafts and bearings and rollers that you have sprayed it into. Many people have totally ruined precision instruments like micrometers and sliding and roller bearings by using it as a lubricant, only to find weeks later that everything is frozen and has to be pressed or hammered apart. It is not a lubricant. Get some fine instrument oil to lubricant. Use acetone or other solvent for cleaning. I ruined some micrometers myself before I figured it out.

[@leesmithsworkshop]

are you taking about the stuff I used to clean the rails ?

[@leesmithsworkshop]

if you look at the video and listen you will see I am using WD40 branded degreaser to clean the rails, not WD40 as you so eagerly pointed out trying to be all clever you big turd. WD-40 Specialist Degreaser is a solvent-based, spray degreaser that quickly removes stubborn soiling such as oil, grease, dirt, and grime without leaving any residue. Simply spray on the clear formula before wiping or rinsing away for a clean finish. For heavy soiling leave for a few seconds to penetrate through the dirt before wiping clean. It’s perfect for a range of applications, from cleaning alloy wheels and tyre rims to degreasing engine components. As well as cleaning, WD-40 Specialist Degreaser will also reduce wear and tear on your components, keeping them clean and running smoothly for longer.

[@michaeltilse4233]

@@leesmithsworkshop My Mistake. I did jump to the conclusion that it was regular WD-40. I did not know WD-40 brand made a purpose degreaser. I have seen so many people on KZbin and elsewhere use regular WD-40 spray as a cleaner/lubricant. Including Adam Savage. (If I remember Correctly) So, I apologize for jumping to the conclusion, I was just trying to be helpful.

[@TechieNI]

Anyone a link for episode 2? searched for it but none with part 2 on the channel.

[@leesmithsworkshop]

if you find part two let me know.

[@TechieNI]

@@leesmithsworkshop lol, send out the search party?

[@leesmithsworkshop]

@@TechieNI I have not made it because I was making so many changes to it and never recorded them. I really should because it's one of my most watched videos each month. The other thing is it would cost about the same as a P1P, I have one and it's just a better printer unless you're happy to spend time tuning the profiles.

[@TechieNI]

@@leesmithsworkshop I have an X1C too but I still like my custom printers.

[@leesmithsworkshop]

@@TechieNI my biggest problem with these custom printers are the clone prusa beds and how they change shape as they heat up, I currently have a Rapido hotend and a big server 20x40 fan from the eva 3 so it can print as fast and as well as the p1p, but I have too many first layer problems I don't use that much. It could be the inductive probe I am using so trying to fit clicky, but I think the chassis is a bit too small.