This Joist Will RUIN Our Flooring.. We Have to Fix It NOW

[@rickyborden3287]

Paul you hit the nail on the head about it being a blessing in disguise taking so long and letting the lumber dry out. One of the big problems these days is houses getting done so fast the lumber is still wet when drywall goes up. It causes tons of cracks, and nail pops. The builders don't care, it's all about get it done and get paid.

[@johnvrabec9747]

Plus, the wood now is fast growth so it's very unstable. I remember when I renovated my bathroom in my house in IL, it was built in the 50's. The studs' growth rings were very tight. Back then, they built houses one at a time, not 20. My neighbor told me his house was the first one on the block, then they filled in over time, over years. You could tell by the architecture of each house. It was open prairie before they built houses on the land. I also watch Japanese home building videos, they use Japanese Cyprus and it's a stable, gorgeous species of wood. Those old houses are 100 years old, plus no fasteners to speak of other than wooden pins. The joinery is impeccable.

[@StudPack]

Yeah we see drywall cracks all the time in new homes around here. Tray ceilings are the worst areas.

[@bencrawfo]

Paul asking uncomfortable fireside questions is my new favorite bit.

[@brianwilliams6758]

Previously, when I framed houses, spots like this we would remove the fasteners from the plywood and plane down the subfloor at the high spot. Might be something to think about if you encounter any other areas of concern. Keep up the great work!

[@mikeclarke3005]

Think that section was captured under outside wall framing

[@ching574]

just cut back from the exterior wall framing and add blocking easy @@mikeclarke3005

[@tburda823]

Details like this are what set apart new homes built by neighborhood builders, and high end custom home builders. Worth the effort!

[@mackcummings4333]

I'm new to your channel. I'm a framer by trade. I'm now superintendent. I really enjoy the light humor and seriousness to the job. I'm a fan and originally from DFW.

[@grampakilt]

I'm 72 and am building a house essentially by myself (for my rancher daughter and son-in-law and their 3 girls) at a pace (not speedy lol) and with experiences that are in lock-step with your video series. While you were framing your floor with dimensional lumber, I was installing I-joists and wondering why the heck you weren't using them, considering everything else about your build is 'the latest and greatest'? Oh well, love the show and congratulate you on the exceptional growth of the channel. GK

[@bullyakker]

Probably cost

[@mikewatson4644]

Kudos to you for taking on a building project like that at 72. I'm the same age. Last summer I took on a bathroom remodel. This year it's a kitchen remodel. Minimal help. Just don't get in a rush. Think things through before you start doing. It's okay to stop and rethink. Good luck!!

[@bigdreamsonsmallacres]

I joists are some of the most dangerous framing. If they get wet or you have a house fire, you can kiss the house, your belongings, and your life-goodbye.

[@mrcryptozoic817]

@@bigdreamsonsmallacres I like open web joists the best. But they are pricey. Built my cabin with them. They sure makes running wire and pipe easy.

[@grampakilt]

@@mikewatson4644 Got to lockup & electrical RO in early November, then shut down for a northern Saskatchewan winter. Have to admit, body still aching...GK

[@MrBrianDuga]

This one is gold. A framer on one of our last jobs was using a track saw to cut the crowns out of some framing material because they were so bad. I say it was worth it.

[@jessicahites871]

I feel for you guys. It was minus 30 degrees w/ wind chill here in Indiana. ALL my water lines froze. I went to use the salamander to de-thaw them but someone had stolen the heater. In this extreme cold, they've frozen hard now. Hot water line to tub busted. Cold side of brand new tub faucet busted. Managed to save the toilet this time!! Yay!! As a single mom of 5 kids, renovating this house by myself and without any support, my funds run pretty thin. At least I get paid tomorrow. It's gonna take my whole check to replace everything Again😢 but I'm grateful I'm able to do the work myself and hopefully this will be the last winter without heat!!🙏

[@fredkk79]

Old plumbers trick you can use a 100 watt light bulb near cold pipes especially in cabinets to make a safe way to warm pipes and keep from freezing

[@Sullrosh]

@@fredkk79 Just remember to use incandescent bulbs.

[@David34981]

Someone had stolen the heater??? I mean, what??

[@falconseyeaerialservicesll8176]

From southwest Indiana here. Anytime at freezing temperatures, leave all faucets dripping water at study pace to help prevent pipes from freezing over, prevent from froze up completely.

[@hydrolisk1792]

DAMN!! That is rough!!

[@justins8004]

Had a floor joist that was also humped up like yours at roughly 5/8" at its peak which is one of the many reasons an existing tile job was terrible. I ended up cutting open the subfloor along the joists parallel to the humped one to expose it. Clamped and leveled a straight board as guide on the side of the humped joist and planing it down to that board. The house was built in the 50's so I knew the board wouldn't be moving anymore, and the weight bearing load and deflection of the floor was still rated high enough with the 5/8" removed from that one joist. Also had 16" on center with the floor joists. Not sure if this would have worked in your scenario, but if another problem joist comes up, and shaving down a joist doesn't bring it below the minimum weight bearing capacity, it may save you some time. Love the channel, always learning something!

[@PosiCat]

As a techie, thank you for not making the box smaller, and instead doing as you did and bringing the wall out further! You might want to consider making hidden in-wall cabinets on one side or the other because of that depth, it'd be a great place to store toilet paper, towels, cans, a whole variety of things!

[@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter]

Nice fix gentleman. My old boss always said "shit falls slow, so that's how we correct it." He was very patient when it came to jacking things up. Depending on the weight we'd only push for ~1/4"-1/2" per day. The nails need time to pop and wood needs time to settle into its new position before you start adding new blocking and posts. We worked on a lot of old stuff and it's probably my favorite because there's a lot of tricks to it. Worst dips I've seen were over 2" with old 2x6s spanning 18'. Clear spans are light and easy though, it's the main girders that get interesting. Never had to pull anything down lol. Great vids guys.

[@tomperley9175]

Paul, I have been watching for quite a while and really enjoy learning new things. I appreciate the details and pride in workmanship. Suggestion, cut your 2" pipe flush with your top plate and round over the PVC edge so it doesn't damage the insulation on the cables as. you pull into you equipment box, Or had a bell end flare to your pipe, and check your equipment to see if ventilation is required. Minor detail TP

[@bmwmaw]

I was one of the IT guys who commented about the media / router location. Thanks for making that cabinet, it really makes me feel better, LOL. Keep up the great work guys and stay warm! Crazy, I live in the eastern WV panhandle/MD area and it's warmer here than down south!!!

[@baxtronx5972]

You mean the one made out of wood with no ventilation? 😂

[@bmwmaw]

@@baxtronx5972 yeah that one! Hopefully they leave it open or put vents in the door

[@StudPack]

it will have plenty of ventilation ✅ stay tuned

[@CharlesMoore-u6z]

I used to spray the crowned floor, Joyce, or whatever to buy your using spray with a spray bottle, wipe it down. Let it soak in a little while then pull down on it, so it doesn’t crack as easy works for me to try it guys. Love the videos. Keep rocking.

[@antiumbridge]

In that weather it would’ve just frozen, and there’s no telling if the weather would get warm enough before everything else happened for them to try it later

[@Bobbyg2018]

I've never seen a receptacle roughed in with a table saw! I bet very few floors would stand up to the 8' straight edge test. Love it!

[@franklong6269]

Hello. I don't mean to play armchair quarterback, but let me offer a recommendation to you for when you frame wood floors. I am a Civil Engineer and licensed contractor who worked his way through college framing homes. So, I am a journeyman carpenter who has years of framing experience. When you frame ANY wood floor, you ALWAYS use TJI floor joist or, if it is a very long span, use flat floor trusses. Nobody uses solid wood floor joists anymore, and you are learning a very hard lesson that illustrates why. TJI is a brand name of one joist manufacturer like Kleenex. The correct technical name is "I-joists," but a lot of carpenters call them TJI joists as a slang name. The advantages of the I-Joists in floors and subfloors are as follows: 1. They are pre-engineered for each span and load. When correctly spec'd they are VERY strong. They don't sag over time when correctly spec'd for the floor load. Solid wood joists can sag or cup over time as you have seen in this video. 2. You can specify these yourself by reviewing the loads that your floor is going to carry and choosing the correct I-Joist for that load. You don't really have to have an engineer do this for you in many municipalities. Also, if you do hire a structural engineer, they don't have to do hardly any calculations to spec these. 3. They create a "silent floor" without any floor squeaks when correctly installed. They are FAR superior to solid wood floor-joists in this manner. I cannot emphasize how important this is because it can be very difficult to fix a squeaking floor. 4. As long as you don't get them wet, they stay perfectly straight, and they do not warp or twist. In fact, you do not have to crown them when you install them. However, they generally have a designed orientation, which is stamped on each joist. 5. They are cheaper than solid-wood joists in most cases. 6. They are much lighter and easier to install than solid wood floor joists, with one exception, which I will deal with in the next point (Point #7). Because they are lighter, they usually install quicker. 7. The main difference when framing with I-Joist is you have to install "bearing blocks" anywhere you have a bearing wall resting on them. However, since these blocks are all the same size, you can mass-cut them quickly on a chop saw and gun-nail them on (or screw them if you want extra protection from floor squeaks). Generally, if you gun-nail them in place, they won't squeak if you do it carefully. 8. If you have a heavy point load on your second-floor joist (like a grand piano or large bathtub), you have to add additional I-Joists or solid wood joists. Typically a structural engineer can easily spec this, but I often just reinforce the area myself because I can guess what is needed based on experience. I also will know the approximate weight of the piano or point load, and I just over-engineer it rather than doing load calcs. You have done this on your show many times and it does work. For example, adding two to three extra I-Joist under tubs is more than enough to prevent any sagging in the floor. 9. You can use them for rim joists on floors, but most framers and designers use solid wood joists around the perimeter of the subfloor or raised second floor. I strongly encourage you to use I-Joists for your main-house construction. If you are paying for structural plans, make sure that you require the engineer to use I-Joists and not solid wood joists. I think you will be FAR happier with the results. BTW, when you first framed this second floor, I did mention this in the comments.

[@coatknight]

How do I-joists stack up against flat floor trusses? Cost and practicality?

[@franklong6269]

@@coatknight Generally, you only use flat floor trusses when you are dealing with a larger span, like spanning a three-car garage. In most cases, you can buy I-Joists to meet most residential span requirements. Flat trusses work pretty well, but they will settle under load, as all trusses do. This may cause some small dips in the ceiling below formed by the bottom chord of the truss. However, I would not hesitate to use flat trusses - they are an excellent choice. As far as practicality, it is generally easier to use I-Joists than to install flat trusses. But remember, you are only going to use flat trusses to span large areas that you don't want posts in. Installing I-Joists requires that you attach bearing blocks at point loads or distributed loads. You will not need to do that with flat trusses. However, you may have to fur out the edge of the trusses depending on what type of wall sheathing you are using. But that can be true with I-Joists in some cases. My preference is to use I-Joists unless the area in question has a span too large for I-Joists to meet.

[@StudPack]

Really appreciate the comment! Structural engineer has specified engineered joists for the main house. He spec'd dimensional lumber for the garage so we went with that instead of changing and having to re-submit to the city.

[@VernBigDaddy]

A little birdy told me you had A-Plus foaming your job. Joey is the most knowledgeable insulator i have ever known. His foam crews are the best sprayers I have ever seen. Good choice!

[@StudPack]

We’re excited to spray with Joey!!

[@deemo2228]

Made a mistake, no one is complaining you are just getting it fixed, just getting it done, nice.

[@StudPack]

My great grandfather was an organ builder🎹 from Oldenburg, would love to visit sometime! Thanks for the support 👍💪

[@carlmetzger3971]

Paul was made for video. Love Paul. Hope you can keep videos coming long into the future! Living in Pa. I get the freezing feeling and how difficult it is to work in. Stay warm brothers.

[@resellerrunner5149]

Love that you guys deal with the same types of real life construction/remodel issues that I do! Good thing you caught the floor bow BEFORE the spray foam!

[@Nomit94]

That’s an awesome media box, not sure what your plan is regarding covering it up or putting a door on it but make sure there is some sort of ventilation as all the tech in there will need to breath 👍🏻

[@lsparks22]

really enjoying the "you guys watch any football" bits thrown in there. keep up the good work!

[@KingKong-bq7wt]

Dumpster fire, LOL Classic! Welcome to my world building in Seattle. The weather is my biggest complaint and challenge. I'm framing the top floor (3rd) no roof yet, today it was not a floor it was a swimming pool. I always wanted a home with a pool, I'm reminded to be careful what I wish for. Sub-floors not level at all but easily fixed with self leveling cement underlay compound if it would just stop raining and get above 50°. I may need to brown bag it and have a dumpster fire until then. Cheers

[@HaIoThree]

Honestly surprised you guys didn't do a metal roof. Matt Risinger is always talking about them and has me convinced for my next house.

[@nancyhentschel815]

I had a beautiful metal roof on my old house. It was great...... but horrible reception. Wouldn't do that again.

[@Old_BMWs]

Metal roofs are awesome, but they will destroy your cell and radio reception of any kind inside the building, especially if you also have metal siding on the walls.

[@Thumbsdwn]

You started this series in over 100 degree weather, and now you are working in almost 0 degree conditions. Working in PA, I can relate 😭

[@Thumbsdwn]

@ElonMuskll the earth is flat anyways

[@randalwc]

​@ElonMuskll just the opposite, the weather is getting back close to what it was 50 years ago this time of year...finally its getting back to what it was when I was kid.

[@testthisfordecficiencies]

Alberta says hold my beer.

[@Itsthatoneguy371]

In Ohio, I can relate!

[@Alkapowned]

Hey, Ohio here🤣✋

[@dcs4555]

thanx for showing details on that flooring fix. my own home had to get some of that kind of fix, during construction. and i'm gonna be putting down new flooring, so i'll hafta learn how to use the leveling compound. which you've shown in prev vids. thanx for all you do.

[@bertruttan129]

The fire barrel huddle!! Welcome to Texas! Don't fret, it's cold here in Florida right now too but no snow or ice! Burrrrr!

[@tracysellman1562]

Paul, My father was a General contractor back in the late 1970s and he thought me that if a floor joist humps, put a relief cut in it as you did, he would do the same with a come-along, but then drive a wedge into the cut until there was a small amount of slack in the come-along cable and wedge in between the floor sheeting, cut everything off flush. Then take a piece of galvanized sheet metal and make a saddle that wraps the cut area and drill 6 holes on each side to accept short nails, And of course, now I bet Simpson ties make something like that but this was old school, he never liked nailing any flooring or roofing sheeting he aways screwed it all with every spot on jousts having a bead of construction adhesive. He never had squeaking floors or stairs in any of his houses, in fact, he would fire guys for nailing not screwing any sheeting down. and he loved to use the old-school test of the marble. :) If it rolled, do it over until it stayed put.

[@stanniemi7929]

I had a friend that built a spec house back in the eighties. He accepted an offer with a provision that he remove a dip that revealed itself in the entrance foyer floor. He attempted to get rid of the dip by jacking up the offending floor joist; using the same method you used only pushing not pulling. Having used adhesive on all his joists and the same with the finished wood floor, he failed to flatten the floor but instead racked the house! Nearly every door and window in the house became stuck. You were wise to deal with the problem early in the process!

[@derekseed]

I am in Canada, on the west coast. We don't get a lot of snow in this particular spot, but we did this week. Like six inches. I've been off work for three days and broke out the snow shovel for the first time in two years. So, I have enjoyed this cold-weather edition of Stud Pack. Cheers.

[@empressche333]

Lower Mainland and the Island can get pretty snaky when it snows! I lived most of my life there, though moved to the East Kootneys a couple of years ago. Now I get to see real snow, and how it gets dealt with. Definitely a different lifestyle!

[@rolfbjorn9937]

So you are the guys stealing our snow. Give the St-Lawrence region its snow back!

[@Sebanisu]

I loved how you guys went to the fire after each step. :) Glad to see a new video. Look forward to the roof and drywall videos!

[@davidstievenard6313]

nice content as always !!! few advices for your network : - most simple and efficient network design is fiber to modem to your firewall/router to a POE switch that distributes wifi access points and all wired sockets. Avoid wifi mesh and try to avoid calcading switches to keep it simple. Consrtains, this consumes more cable as you have to centralize everything. - the best wifi is the one you don´t use : cable all static devices, tv, printers..etc...for your desk you can use a thunderbolt dock, with one usb-c cable connects everything network, screen... - although consumer product mix wifi/switch/firewall features in one box, the constrains are different : firewall have to be physically should be close of your modem, usually in a cabinet or in a corner, omnidirectional wifi access point have radio signal in a donut / butterfly shape and the optimal position in on the ceiling. I suggest to place cables on ceiling in . If you're not a network engineer unifi products are a good compromise between consumer and super expensive pro,

[@TheChillosophizer]

I apologize if I missed it, I'm not a builder just a watcher, but I thought that stairwell wasn't conditioned space. With that media hub box mounted straight to what is essentially an exterior wall, won't that large uninsulated rectangle radiate heat out of the building? Also, won't that sharp temperature change cause condensation within the media box?

[@TedLedbetter]

The box is upstairs near Jordan's desk and future bridge I believe.

[@StudPack]

The stairway is not conditioned but will be insulated and will benefit from the cooling/heating equipment in the garage and upstairs... at least that's what the engineer is telling us.

[@johnds6621]

Too bad it's so cold but now's the time to take that into consideration while building out your place and insulate where needed to prevent freezing damage down the road.

[@alexknight7191]

I'm so curious if and how you've been securing all your tools. I haven't heard you mention anything about installing your garage doors but I'd think that would be high on the list, for security and now warmth!

[@RoboSkyrat]

They keep them in a room on the existing building. In one of the previous videos we get a sneak peek of Paul's many tools

[@StudPack]

Yep, garage door email sent this week. Gotta company willing to drive down and install can't wait!!

[@Tristan_Reacts]

Project is really coming along. Been following it since you guys started it. It’s going to look great.

[@zarfmouse]

I'm pretty sure the reason to drip faucets in extreme cold is not to prevent the pipes from freezing, but to prevent them from bursting when they freeze. As the ice plug in the pipe expands it puts pressure on the incompressible water in the pipe and that's why the pipe bursts. Opening the faucets means the liquid water can escape and relieve the pressure as the ice plug grows. That's what I've been advised as a Midwestern homeowner at least.... Luckily my pipes have never frozen thanks to proper insulation, but I always drip them when it's under 10F.

[@itsfonk]

@StudPack before the walls are closed in, maybe run a few more strategic flex conduit with pull strings for running additional power, A/V, network, or control wiring?

[@aBoogivogi]

Yeah i honestly don't get why flex tubing is not more used in the US. Here in Norway it barely adds any cost. We pay about 0.7 $ per foot for pre-pulled flex piping with three 14 AWG leads. Pre-pulled networking cable is more expensive and it's usually worth pulling this in tubing yourself as opposed to buying it off the shelf.

[@tburda823]

@@aBoogivogi It's becoming a lot more popular in the U.S. Lots of people are requesting it on new builds, if it isn't standard. Little late to the party, but finally getting around to it! lol

[@The_R_Vid]

Glad to see you guys back after the holidays. That Advantech subfloor is so thick, it'll span very far between joists under residential loading. Kudos on the floor remediation. Keep warm!

[@TracyBetts12]

Looks cold! Lol. Liked the awkward fire pit/barrel scenes, lol. Can't wait for the next video! Stay warm!!!

[@JamieReneeVonTeez]

FINALLY got my Stud Pack fix! Good job guys!

[@DeeSea3]

You guys are the best, whenever videos come out I will sit and watch the whole thing, I don't care if I have to wait 2 months for a video, new studpack is worth the wait 👍👍👍

[@navybrandt]

Nice. As I'm watching this, you're probably filming the roofers. Looking forward to seeing it!

[@StudPack]

Roof is done!!!

[@billvandorn5332]

Much respect for adapting and overcoming these trials and tribulations with this awesome project.. At least the roofers will get a break before they work their tails off.

[@rfesig]

You guys are great! I am always excited when KZbin tells me a new Studpack video is available. At 9:28 in the video, you're crosscutting a wide piece of plywood with the edge against the fence. That's a dangerous move, as the cut piece can get stuck between the blade and fence and will kickback. Please be careful guys, I'd hate to hear someone on the Studpack crew got injured. Keep up the great work, the place is looking amazing.

[@jeffmiddleton2222]

Glad to see I wasn't the only one that caught that!

[@StudPack]

I know that's a bad move, crosscut sled in the works. Thanks for reminding me 💪👊

[@allenmcgrath932]

Been waiting for this video all year long! :) Happy New Year, guys!

[@llee4225]

It would seem easier and structurally stronger to cut the flooring out and reinstall after shaving down the joist?

[@mattbrown5584]

General comment. As a homeowner I’d like to upgrade some existing doors with added security e.g reinforce door frames/locks with metal or other strategies. Interested in what you have planned for your garage door and other access doors. Would love to see an entire video devoted to current options for good better best security. Thanks in advance

[@dandexinventor]

Nice work and good job puting up with the cold! I feel for you by memory as I came from Gillette, WY where I was building a deck in -6F with 25mph wind and that is why I now live in the Mohave Desert in AZ. I'll take the 120F heat any day over anything less than upper 30s.

[@billybike57]

Thanks for sharing!

[@Sammywhat]

Love this series guys! Brilliant work one and all!! Thank you!!!!

[@bobruddy]

that crown makes truss floors really appealing

[@DesertHomesteader]

Uh...no - wifi goes through drywall just fine. It will have a much harder time going through metal. It is just like how electro-magnetic shielding works. If you want to protect something from EMI/EMP waves that can destroy your electronics, you add a metal shield or mesh around it - EM waves are interrupted and dispersed by the shielding from inside and outside. Also, you want to position the access point/router at a higher point in your building while still keeping it accessible, so don't put it on the first floor. Putting it higher up (and centralized) increases the coverage of the wifi. If you have any doubts, download a wifi coverage app to your phone and check it for yourself.

[@roesland82]

Good luck, gang. Time to design some Stud Pack mittens as merch for the webshop 😉

[@cxsey8587]

Love this build, you guys are doing things so well. Tons of information and ideas!

[@turboflush]

I had a floor framed out in a room addition. They folded the metal ties acrosa the top then layed the flooring. Created a nasty hump. Enough for me to trip on it. Cut out a large square , moved the straps and planned the boards ( also warped).

[@Frieslick]

That table saw trick cutting from behind was nice. You boys should try working in winter in Scotland. Slab is like an ice rink daily and timber almost too cold to handle without extreme hand numbness. Makes our 28c summers feel roasting hot though!

[@singhivan]

Greetings from South Africa 🇿🇦. Wow, you guys are working hard in the cold weather. Luckily, you have a nice big warm fire going there 😂. Absolutely amazing repair job on the warped beam. That's what sets the professionals apart from the chances, even if these professionals have never built a house before 😂. Good job guys, good job. Cheers

[@rickyd1ca]

Given all the cat6 cabling you guys put in, you might want to consider getting a half depth rackmount with rackmountable network gear in there. Makes for a professional looking and clean install.

[@StudPack]

probably for the main house 👊

[@TheSpecKK]

Good call on keeping your wifi out of metal boxes. No sense blocking the signal. When building new though, it's worth looking at getting Cat6 runs to a ceiling box to mount Access Points running off a PoE router. Something with broad line of sight to the whole room for peak media streaming.

[@aBoogivogi]

You don't need a lot for media streaming. The best streaming services out there provide at most 60-80 mbit streams and even 8k KZbin barely breaks 100 mbit

[@stevesolt4036]

Excellent joist repair

[@walnutcontractors5661]

Interesting approach to leveling the floor ! Certainly anything you can do at the framing stage to make the flattening easer is worth it.

[@recon1314]

Had the same joist issue on a few in my basement. Make a contraption that spanned the adjoining joists. Welded up some 1/2" plates and had threaded rods through it that secured to the heaving joist, gave it a few cranks each day pulling it down until it levelled out than sistered lumber to keep it there. Worked great

[@williamsethman2434]

Glad to see another video of the build there in Texas. Love the burning barrel. Not much fun working in the cold for sure. Mighty cold up north, minus 15 with the wind. Stay warm & looking forward to seeing the roof going on next.

[@katherinez9654]

Here in Eugene Oregon we are dealing with freezing rain. Lots of downed trees and power lines. I’ve never been so happy to see the plain old rain. You might need to get some hose bib covers and some vent covers for these cold snaps. Just make sure to remove the vent covers so you won’t wind up with dry rot.

[@joebinion1]

Awesome plunge cut with the table saw,GOD BLESS

[@peterwest323]

@5:30 used a similar nut to straighten a racked two story detached garage. Attached a come along from the nut to the opposite wall's top plate and then the structure was easily pulled into plumb.

[@brockpodgurski6144]

The Stud Pack crew has come full circle in terms of extreme temperatures while building the dream house.

[@jillianreeseart6759]

We just love the problem-solving videos! Your older videos of remodeling rated private playlists that we made just so we can watch them over and over again! Great job guys! Fist bump!

[@bpduguard]

I like the DIY media enclosure. Actually looks like 5/8" plywood. I like the receptacle in one corner, since that leaves room for a UPS. Please get a good UPS with a replaceable battery and enough battery ports for what you need. Many of the enclosure kits come with passive ventilation in the door so that things don't overheat. I hope that Jordan has considered a patch panel to land all the sensors, cameras, wireless access points, etc. You should be good with a 2" conduit, but please check with a local reputable low voltage installer.

[@TooLazyToFail]

Good video and good sponsor. I've been in that electrolyte-deficiency fog. It's super dangerous if you're driving or work with anything hazardous.

[@wombatp]

Glad the freeze has not wrecked the water heater and manifold again like it did last time in one of the earliest Stud Pack House videos.

[@jukeplays7572]

Trust me, you want to add a backing board for the TV. You don't want to limit your options on mounts. I work in home theater installation and have ran into way too many brand new homes that we ended up having to mount to a center stud and toggle the edges. Just do it and save the hassle. Now, don't forget to add two brush plates/boxes with a larger conduit to pass your HDMI cables from your tv down to whatever entertainment center you choose. This will really give a minimal look and also once again save tons of headaches. You don't want cables hanging everywhere and running cables through insulation is no fun. I would be glad to answer any questions on the AV side [Speakers, Wiring, ECT]. Sonos has some great simple whole home audio products that would really make this space pop. P.S. I would lower the TV box down around a foot or two. You want your livingroom tv to be centered at eye level. On the other hand this can conflict with furniture, so you have may have to mount it higher than what is considered "ideal". At the end of the day its your space so don't get discouraged by the "TV TOO HIGH" crowd.

[@iamnolegend2519]

Good to see you back! Rock on !

[@billrichmond4922]

Just curious, why not take your multi tool and cut the bow out of the top of the joist? You could shim the bottom, maybe it would continue to bow over time, I don't know.

[@rogermccaslin5963]

I've lived in South Florida my entire life. Nothing demotivates me like cold weather. 🥶 Glad to see you guys can push through it.

[@jaysonstewart596]

Your attention to detail is what all contractors should have.

[@WiliamBennettwildarbennett]

Ok Ive read thru several to see if anyone gave you this suggestion, but none, so I'll jump in. Learned this ol'timers trick from a man that was in his 70-80's still framing. When he had a floor joist that was double crowned luke yours. He would set his skilsaw depth a little just shy of full cut thru. Then looking at it crosseye see the twist in the joist, he'd draw a pencil line slightly diagonal along the side of the board. Seen some that took 2or3 times. Then he'd run the skilsaw following those line, like he would rip it while sideways. He would do this on both sides. One diagonal going up and other going down. Then take scrap pieces and scab over it.

[@Man-DeA]

Good solution. Thanks Man! Are many better soltuions than the one they executed - but seemed son wanted long and cheap.

[@jayman12348]

I live up in pa we had like 2-4 inches of snow and feels like 2° on Tuesday and on Wednesday we were out shoveling snow off a roof to install a metal roof.

[@danbrookshire5628]

Sorry it was cold for you guys but I do enjoy your videos.

[@garyraley4050]

I love watching Paul and the crew, I’ve been busy catching up on some of their other builds. Thanks for entertaining me

[@StudPack]

You're welcome garyraley and thx for watching!!

[@danieltholejr722]

Hey Stud Pack! We missed you guys (and gals)! Way back, when you were sweating like a horse up on that roof, did ever think you'd have hats & gloves on? A fire barrel going? Single digits??? Well - us up here in the northeast - we feel your pain! :) Doing ANYTHING out in the cold like that, especially using your hands, is a miserable & painful experience. Hang in there!! And in that dry winter weather.... Hydration is EASY to overlook - no one really thinks about it when it's cold out! Good for LMNT in helping out! Cold weather like that will do CRAZY things to lumber; especially if there's moisture in that wood. Things freeze and all kinds of wonkiness ensues! But I'm curious: What was the plan, had that fastener in the floor, pulled out, instead of the beam pulling down? Metal shrinks when it gets cold, I seem to recall. :) Your nice media cabinet: Give some SERIOUS thought about some ventilation for all those electronics. Your gear will thank you later! Paul: I LOVE "seeing" that you're thinking about your peepers - when Rad was nailing things on! Still; WEAR your PPE!! :) I'm looking forward to the next vid! Be well guys!!

[@w2ttsy670]

8:30 noooo just stick all the gear in the closet under the stairs! Then all you need are your drops to any planned terminations in the walls and then a wifi AP on the finished ceiling Also Leviton make structured cabling cabinets with a muddable flange for flush fit install and would have definitely been the better option here. Also this ply thing is not going to vent heat and all your network gear is going to get cooked

[@paulweaver7426]

Agree with your low voltage option.

[@macD723]

Yep, it got cold here. But, at least our winters only last about 4 days! Lol.

[@Wolfburns]

Awesome to see you all working hard and staying warm. I am super excited to see insulation and dry wall. Will be interesting to see some cold roofing action too. Thank you so much as always for bringing us along. This series is amazing!!!

[@StudPack]

Roof is done and looks amazing!!! thx wolfburns 💪

[@dannyhutcheson9932]

I am always glad to see another Stud Pack video pop up, i just wish that they were longer and more frequent. Anyway, thanks for sharing.

[@anthonysnow7277]

wouldn't it have been easier to remove the screws from the floor then mark a level line on the top of the joist and then use your oscillating tool to cut out the crown. then screw the floor back down?

[@johnhamilton9229]

Getting closer 👍

[@smarthome2660]

I only have eight feet of pipe and the water meter to protect from freezing, and I use a Heat Tape wrap controlled by a smart WiFi Sonoff TH-16 with temperature probe. I can set the temperature the heat tape turns on & off from the eWelink app. Right now the outside temperature is 18 Fahrenheit and my water meter is 38.1 Fahrenheit. I also encased the pipe and meter in a 4" thick Styrofoam box so even when the outside temp gets down to 16 tonight, the pipe will only be 36 and the heat tape will only turn on if the pipe and meter temp gets below 34, and turn back off at 36 again. I can test it anytime via voice and get confirmation on my watch, and ask Alexa what the Heat Tape temperature is anytime I need to know.

[@StudPack]

That's awesome!!

[@azpcox]

Instead of cutting the joist, could you have unscrewed the floorboard, used a sawzall to trim off the top of the joist a kerf at a time, then resecured the floorboard?

[@Man-DeA]

good idea apocox - are lot of solutions, many better than their choice.... but they seemed desparate to do a long video.

[@Dragonited]

Don't forgett to pre-pull network cables for PoE cameras/devices and also inset boxes for outside lights and outlets before you do the sprayfoam insulation.

[@Bespelled22]

When we lived in Leander it struck me as odd that none of the outside faucets were freezeless. I know hard freezes are rare down there but it just seems like such a cheap precaution that can save thousands in repairs from busted pipes.

[@hydrolisk1792]

Always a good day when the gang uploads a new video! Good job getting that hump out of the floor!!

[@dosmaiz7361]

Wouldn't it have been easier to rip up the plywood flooring and plane the 2x12?

[@rupe53]

they would also have to shim / fir the bottom.

[@ernestnicolas5534]

Always enjoy watching you guys! MAHALO!

[@StudPack]

a'ole pilikia ernest!!

[@FightinAggieFarmer]

Can’t wait to see the roof go on!

[@waynejanik9668]

Thank you for sharing. How many people remember when city and utility workers used to warm themselves around a 55-gallon drum? You all looked like a couple of union workers hanging around a fire and talking sports. Keep the great videos coming, and all the best to you all and your families, and stay warm.

[@dlmac]

It seem like it was just days ago you were melting in the Texas summer heat!

[@chriskelvin248]

To be fair, 2x12’s are the biggest typical chunk of dimensional lumber you see on the job. There’s a lot to shrink and warp there. The only thing worse are those wet noodles- deck railing spindles!

[@nickb.237]

I am very surprised, y'all being from Louisiana, and the extent of this build, that you guys are going with shingles! Would have loved to see a metal roof install on this bad boy.

[@StudPack]

Metal roof on the back porch cuz of the low pitch but way too expensive for the garage once we got some prices 😳

[@nickb.237]

@@StudPackjust watched the roofing video and I was just as excited watching that new product as I would have been with a metal roof. Man that’s amazing you won’t have to worry about that roof for a very long time!!

[@skicrave1]

Sure there are other comments to this effect, but either in the garage, or in the house, you need to have a proper A/V & network rack to hold those low voltage electronics. All of your network is home run to that (including the WAP). If you need help on this, just reach out. This is too high end of a build not to do it the right way.

[@aBoogivogi]

Assuming he want's to put that stuff in the main house this little cubby will work fine for a router, small switch and a fibre modem. But yeah stashing a 19" rack in a cold-ish closet would be the ideal solution