This Might Be The Ultimate Tenoning Setup

[@DovetailTimberworks]

Hey Andy, very cool! Well put together and really the results are speaking for themselves. When you can caliper all corners of the tenon and results that close, youve got it dialed in! Well done.

[@AndyRawls]

Thanks for all your help Brent, I could have never created this setup without your knowledge.

[@aserta]

17:28 One of us! One of us! - I swear, this is like a thing we all do. Mount a roller. "pop" Nice! > Play with it for a few minutes, because it's just that good.

[@kylejackson1885]

Awesome jig and shaper. I actually just purchased a 1951 craftsman shaper in Wimberly, TX. Working on rebuild and jig

[@ApexWoodworks]

Andy, I have a very similar clamp on my Felder slider and can tell you from experience that they will exert considerable force on anything you're clamping down. So be very careful that you don't have the pivoting pad set too closely to the surface of the piece before engaging the cam-locking handle, or you'll risk warping the jig where the clamp base site. I would therefore recommend that you add a metal plate that extends at least 1/2" beyond each edge of the clamp's base, and, if possible, another one directly underneath the jig, to reinforce it. Then, bolt through the two plates to secure it. Terrific video, as always!

[@katzmosestools]

Love your videos Andy. Just got a Powermatic shaper that seems to be roughly the same as your Oliver

[@AndyRawls]

Man that’s awesome thanks for tuning in. I’m pretty sure Powermatic and Oliver come from the same factory. Both great quality machines.

[@carpentryjoineryandcabinet6335]

Hi Andy, These tenoning carriages come up on the used market quite often here in the uk. Some continental brands like scm and panhans, but also a lot of old English made Wadkin ones too, which (as I'm sure you already know from your 4 sider) are built like absolute tanks and will last forever. They tend to go for around £300 (a little under $400). I would imagine the reason they're quite inexpensive over here is that it is very common in the uk to have a stand alone tenoner, most one man shops will have a little two head multico or sedgewick etc. So there is less demand for the tenoning carriages when you can easily buy a used tenoner complete with modern whitehill tooling for less than £1k. I have no idea how much they would cost to ship, but if one came up I'd be happy to crate it up for you so you could arrange to get it shipped over if that would help? I crate up some of my furniture to ship, so I could just pallet crate one the same as I do them. Just a note on the tooling, although the tenon disks can be useful, you may find that a pair of 125mm rebate blocks are very handy for smaller square shouldered tenons. The fact they're the same diameter with turn blade tooling (so keeps a constant diameter) means there is zero set up time to make sure the shoulders align, and unlike the tenon disks they have scoring blades on the top and bottom of the head, so give a cleaner cut. Depending on the diameter of your spacer collars, you can usually tenon up to about 32mm (around and inch and a quarter) which is normally more than adequate for stub tenons for cabinet doors etc. They're also a lot cheaper to buy than tenon disks and the associated required hss knives and limiters. Hope that might be some help. Ben.

[@paularguin5685]

Do you know how and where I can purchase a tenoning carriage from the UK. Maybe you could help me out.

[@jar944]

They are so rare here they command a high price. I know a couple guys that imported both a wadkin and panhas table and after shipping and import were around $1000 US. I've seen one recently semi recently (panhas) in Canada for $2k Canadian. The only thing more rare are the side mount tenoning carriages.

[@AndyRawls]

Hey Ben, thanks for all the info very helpful. I do think you're right about using a pair of rebate blocks for quick tenons. Brent @dovetailtimberworks turned me on to the combi head because it can cut very long tenons and has endless options for cutter profiles. I honestly would prefer a bigger steel carriage and eventually might try to source one. The more I researched it the more I thought I can build this! It seems to have worked out but we'll see how well the plywood holds up over time. If you stumble across please let me know: [e-mail]

[@carpentryjoineryandcabinet6335]

@@jar944 it always seems to me all machinery seems so much more expensive in the US/Canada than it is in the UK. I guess just a supply and demand thing, there were a lot of smaller machinery manufacturers in the UK at one point, so I guess the market is just a bit more flooded over here. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@DovetailTimberworks]

​@@paularguin5685 Ebay UK has one up right now, and is where I got my PanHans

[@mwrcrft]

That is a nice jig, I have seen the Hans and Franz jig did you give it a consideration?

[@greggcoulter6008]

Do you mean Fritz and Franz?

[@mwrcrft]

@@greggcoulter6008 Yea that Is it ,thanks. I have seen them on traditional sliders and have only been interested in them recently when I installed a Harvey slider and big eye fence on my SawStop. The jig does look to be a finger save.

[@greggcoulter6008]

@ That big eye fence looks sweet. How do you like it? That Harvey nickel plated table saw looks awesome too.

[@mwrcrft]

@@greggcoulter6008 The fence is as described and works great. The fence not moving while being tightened is the best part to me no more tap tap tap, oh crap, tap tap tap the other way. The fence face moving forward or back is nice for using the slider and not trapping cutoffs between the blade and fence.

[@jamesc4362]

Andy, love that tenoning jig. Can you possibly share the list of the parts' links to have the jig build? thanks

[@AndyRawls]

Linear Guide bearings: www.firgelliauto.com/products/mini-linear-slides Extruded aluminum fence came from McMaster Carr Felder Clamp: www.felder-group.com/en-us/shop/manual-workpiece-clamp-sc123939/eccentric-clamp-sp123941?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD8oDI-TbK0_ajCsuCWFWzWp1Mg8H&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0fu5BhDQARIsAMXUBOKv4Q2KyQwJdE4xovEU6f28E9SGMD5DVE8nJYK2gMhXAPUdc8NVIPcaAhd_EALw_wcB

[@mercedesEQUA]

nice mechanism, nice job Andy

[@greggcoulter6008]

Great setup you have now. I had no idea a tenoning slider like the Rangate was $4000. Never knew it was that expensive. Anyway, I cant wait to see everything you build with the new additions to your shop

[@williamparker6649]

Hi Andy great video! Will you please share the cutterhead you are using. Yesterday I received my new Powermatic 2700 and tenoning is one of the tings Ibwill be doing on my shaper. This video is super helpful. Thank you!

[@AndyRawls]

www.whitehill-tools.com/cutter-heads/combi-heads/CBS004V3/

[@jackmaxwell3464]

I know you have a huge foot driven mortiser, but I am now going to build a scaled down version of this for my bench mortiser … (i think … heh)

[@bradcofo]

Not sure if you noticed, but your fence on your shaper moved quite a bit when you pushed @4:40. Loose knobs somewhere?

[@stevem268]

i love building stuff for the shop and watching others do the same! it's an opportunity to try new methods and materials. i recently completed a new router cabinet using all jessem components and imho, it would look great in the living room. i need a sliding table for my much smaller shaper for the same purpose, that will make an excellent small winter project and jazz up up my 1940's shaper as well do you have a source for the linear bearings?

[@gavinfeargrieve4874]

I'm a little concerned with the high profile of the jig. I always like to have the cutter as low as possible. I've made jigs for my wood shaper using plywood and they always start out dead flat but over time can develop a subtle , hard to detect until it's too late, bow in them. Can be frustrating. Have you considered bolting the liner bearings directly to the bed of the shaper? I know it's a new machine and drilling/taping holes into it may make ya cringe, so an alternative could be to attach the linear bearings to a metal plate and use hold down magnets. Just my 2 cents. Keep up the good work!

[@AndyRawls]

I think your concern about the plywood is justified, I'm hoping it will stay flat. I really don't want to drill and tap the table top but eventually I might buy one of the big steel carriages and for that I will have to drill holes. I actually looked into the magnet idea but couldn't find the right magnet for this application. I need something strong that can be turned on and off.

[@DovetailTimberworks]

@gavinfeargrieve4874 Yes, cutter close to the top bearing is best if possible, but flush mounting is done all the time and with care and done within the capacity of the machine, it's considered standard practice. Double tenon discs capable of doing the cut Andy just did would be monstrous and far too much for the machine.

[@jar944]

​@DovetailTimberworks which is why everyone should have a shaper rated for 330mm tenon discs. The only downside is cost, power requirements and space. 😂

[@DovetailTimberworks]

@@jar944 Absolutely!

[@MrBusyPants]

Could you put washers between the inside of the jig to fill the gap preventing bending issue?

[@davidocampo8465]

Could you inlay a 6x6 or 4x4 sheet of 1/4 in aluminum in the sled to support the clamp?

[@thomasnourse7506]

Can you post the link to the linear rail stuff?

[@williamellis8993]

Nice, Andy. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and do it. Bill

[@iNEPTIFICATION]

Cool idea, where did u get the bearing blocks/Channel track?

[@AndyRawls]

www.firgelliauto.com/products/mini-linear-slides

[@thomasnourse7506]

Did that combo head come with the stub spindle or did you get it with the shaper, or did you order it?

[@AndyRawls]

It's not on a stub spindle, I just have it mounted to the top of the standard spindle with it dropped down as far as it will go.

[@jamesryan5747]

Could you leave a link to the guide bearings.

[@AndyRawls]

www.firgelliauto.com/products/mini-linear-slides

[@thomasnourse7506]

Which whitehill combi tenoner head is that?

[@AndyRawls]

www.whitehill-tools.com/cutter-heads/combi-heads/CBS004V3/

[@christobar]

Title typo?

[@AndyRawls]

Thanks!

[@tableshaper4076]

The clamp is pulling up on the screws of the base.

[@AndyRawls]

It’s actually not, just looks like that in the video

[@tableshaper4076]

@@AndyRawls I know it boggles the mind but pull the screws and see what happens. I'm not being mean it's just I like these kind of things.

[@AndyRawls]

It doesn’t boggle my mind and I don’t think you’re being mean at all. There are 14 small bolts that hold the plywood to the carriage bearings. I promise you the clamp is not pulling up on the base but I can confirm that the point at which the clamp attaches to the ply wood base is deforming a small amount from clamping pressure.

[@tableshaper4076]

@@AndyRawls If there was only 1 screw holding the clamp down all the force would be pulling the clamp up but because you have multiple screws holding the clamp down the screws closest to the opposing force are acting like a fulcrum and are pulling up. So if you have 4 screws in it, the front screws are being pulled up by the clamp while the back screws are aren't doing much but the rear base of the clamp is being forced down, pivoting on the front screws. I'm not the best at explaining it I admit but if you pull all the screws out of the base the clamp would not clamp, it would lift up.

[@AndyRawls]

I don't understand any of this but I get it, it's not easy to explain!! I'm not sure we are on the same page anyways. There's nothing lifting when it clamps, if there was then I wouldn't be getting consistent measurements across all four corners of the tenon. When I engage the clamp and put a ruler next to the base it doesn't move. In the video it appears like its lifting but its actually just a slight movement front to back.

[@stanley626]

If you wanted it to do tenons why don’t you just get a purpose made tenoner?

[@DovetailTimberworks]

Tenoners take up a lot of space for a one trick pony. They're awesome, but a shaper can be a very efficient tenoning machine that will also do 100 other things for you.

[@DarioushAryan]

bravoo

[@TheCarpenterGirl1984]

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